I have a tip in changing gear, is not to change much at all. Here us how; first know what is your home gear. The home gear is what gear you are comfortable going into while riding on a flat road. Mine is 44 teeth on the chainring and 18 teeth on the cog when my wheel size is 27" 1-1/4 or 700c X 32. For climbing, I use to do it on 32 teeth on my chain ring and 36 teeth on my cog. I only shift gears when I am climbing. But I don't shift gears when I am on flat road.
Don't forget, you need to be pedalling when changing gear! If you're static and decide to change gear before setting, you'll mash the gears, cause the chain to jump - even jump off, or worse, break the chain.
Since most beginner cyclists would be using mechanical shifting, perhaps a video using pivoting shifters would be more helpful than electronic buttons or paddles. Also, many beginners will have trigger or twist shifters. Given the focus on drop bar road bikes, maybe just a quick mention of other systems would be good. Otherwise, very helpful.
Other shifting systems would be found on their respective gcn sub-channels. This particular channel focuses on road- und gravelbikes, so their specific systems are discussed.
One trick I picked up recently that's to do with shifting is that when you shift in the front and your chain falls off, you can get your chain back on the chainring just by shifting back the other direction and doing another pedal stroke or two - the derailleur pulls the chain back on for you. For years when that happened I would just get off my bike and fix it with my hands (which results in some really black, greasy fingers for the rest of the ride). This is a really nice series you've been doing here! I think a lot of beginners will find it useful - I'm pretty well versed in cycling by this point, but I've been watching to see if I can pick up any new little tidbits.
Never really happened to me on a modern bike with a modern groupset, but my vintage bike with frame shifters has a friction shifter instead of an indexed one for the front derailleur, which gets overshifted much more easily.
Yes but i think this trick works best with a modern groupset. I have friction shifter for my front mech 10-speed triple deore xt and i occasionally do this. Your right, shift the other way and it often just works. Scratches on my crank have occurred because of this though
One thing you didn't mention is the "Trim" shift while in the big ring. Depending on your groupset level, some groupsets have a trim shift for the big ring. When you initially shift to the big ring, it is expected you will be in the top half of the cassette. If your not or when you downshift to lower half off the rear cassette, you need to trim shift to get the best performance and vice versa when going from the lower half to the upper half of the cassette. Electronic groupsets typically have a setting that will automatically make these adjustments while riding so you don't have to worry about it.
I really HAVE to start showing my smaller chainring a little more love - I'm WAY too often cross-chaining to my larger sprockets because I don't ENTIRELY trust my front derailleur (even though I've finally learned to set it up properly).
Good to learn the step between your two chain rings. I know that when changing between chainrings it is approximately the difference between three sprockets. So i can change both together and have a similar gearing. Especially useful when approaching a hill, change onto the smaller chainring and down 3 on the back, then on the hill i can change up the cassette as required.
I also started doing this last year and it made my riding so much smoother, especially when in a group. No more sudden slow downs on the hills. Also you don't get those sudden changes in cadence that you have when only shifting the front ring.
@@MattRose30000 it why I can't wait to get SRAM AXS on my next bike, mainly as looking to only shift rear and it will auto shift front since depend on where riding looking to use how shift front to move the axs dropper I don't know cadence I do, I just know I love a certain amount of pressure on my foot and why I can't cycle with my friends that go 10-11mph, I might be able to but never used road bike pedaling with one foot yet, on mountain bike I can do 9mph with one foot
I find shifting 3 at the back with the chainring puts you "where you were", in roughly the same gear ratio you where in before you shifted whereas shifting 2 at the back puts you "where you want to be" in the "next" gear up/down . But I guess it depends on the cassette spacing and the range 🤷♂
Super helpful video Manon and Conor! A helpful tip I learned from a good teacher was:"Think of if the chain is away from the core of the bike it's harder gears, whereas if the chain is nearer to the core of the bike its easier gears." This saves trying to get your head around bigger/littler sprokets being reversed front to rear. Well done you two! (I noticed that Conor left out the techniques on sabotaging your 'friend's' gears!!) I look forward to "Manon's revenge "!
I have just set up my son's little 3x9 triban3 road bike on the turbo trainer so he can get the idea of the gears before going out in the wild on it - to be fair he still needs to grown into it a bit 😅 In the mean time I want get him riding it with his meta Quest so he stops skipping leg day on bluddy gorilla tag. There's a thought for a video:- full VR riding app reviews to get beginers/kids to engage with cycling who arent yet in a position to venture out. His bike is microshift but the rule of thumb, which I had not twigged so thank you Manon and Connor, of small button for small cog, big one for big holds true and for an 8 year old that simple trick is pure gold! 👍👍👍👍
Just another tip... if you realize you forgot to change gears before stopping pull the front brake and push down on hoods to lift the rear wheel off the ground slightly and pedal and change gears as needed (easier with clipless)
Every time I see Conor's hi-viz shoes I am tempted to ride with hi-viz Crocs in the summertime. Drivers won't be able to say they didn't see me anymore.
Even some of us more experienced use very little gears, maybe the power I make but I sit in 53/11 all the time, even leave traffic lights in it with SPD pedals but as can walk in the shoes, only steeper hills I change from it
Delighted to watch this - well worth watching for new cyclists. As a Rohloff hub owner I am very pleased with my choice - always in the right gear, regardless of speed, great range of gears and always the right one is one or two 'clicks' (gear changes) away. For new cyclists - Rohloff make a very robust 14 gear hub gearbox similar in many ways to a car gearbox, and offering much the same range as popular derrailier gears, with far better 'gaps' betwen one gear and the next. However, Rohloff geared bikes seem to be used in a vanishingly small percentage (
Let’s hear it for hub gears! I use the Sturmey-Archer SRF3. If someone is really fussy about cadence and needs really small steps between gears, it might not be the best choice. But there’s a reason Raleigh built millions of three speed bikes both drop bar and upright; it’s a great all round setup.
It would be interesting to have a video on explaining the advantages and disadvantages of the different crankset ratios, 53/39 vs 52/36 vs 50/34. How much of a difference in everyday riding does that really make?
For my double-digit FTP, having adequate low gears is much more valuable than a large chainring that I'm never going to use. Party pace gets you everywhere you want to be... Eventually.
Quite simple. The higher your ftp the higher the number of teeth 👍 Ultimately down to personal preference. Next time you replace your chain rings try a different pair and judge for yourself.
53/39 is big boy set up 52/36 is a mid compact set up and 50/34 is a compact set up.. I have all these set ups in each of my bikes. Use it in a different kinds of rides. Flat, hilly and gradual rides..
A more in depth guide on suggested gear ratio's and what to aim for might be helpfull as well. I guess it depends alot of on different variables, but it might help some.
@@a1white hope you enjoy compact, as power I put down I am doing my best to avoid compact as feel standard size like the 53/39 is only way to be, maybe if go on steep hill was it Connor went up I might change my mind
As someone who has switched from Shimano 105 mechanical to SRAM eTap, I much prefer SRAM's shift logic (right lever shift up/left lever shift down/ both for large mech). It's so much more logical, and no fumbling to only depress a certain portion of the lever. Especially when wearing gloves.
Thank you for the video. Just brought my first road bike cannondale synapse 2. Ok not as good as most you guys have but this video will help me on my first ride for sure.
For city riding always gear like it's a rally or a drag race. Using your highest sustainable output, shifting up/down to maintain the most comfortable cadence to do so. At stoplights start from lowest gear, shifting up to the highest going from 0-40km/h as fast as possible. Encode the chevrons on your stargate. Reach higher warpspeeds. Immerse yourself in the ride and enjoy it.
I did pick up on that last tip where you might end up on the small ring at the front and back or the big ring at the back and front. I was told by a lad that sold me a Colnago that using the mid range gears at the back to determine which ring to use on the front. In my case my cassette is ten rings so at ring 5 & 6 I decide to go up or down on the front depending on the terrain ahead and how hard the peddling is going to be. He said, there are certain ratios that are the same depending on combinations and the big bug bear is the lateral torque on the chain with extreme selections that can shorten the chain life due to wear and tear.
What a great video so basic that not one person should not be able to understand it’s great GCN have this segment for beginner riders and that they are actually listening to what people want great keep them coming 👍👍👍
Given the increasing popularity of 1x drivetrains, a primer on them would be nice. I recently bought a Trek FX3 with a 1X drivetrain and I’m still figuring out the best gears for each situation especially climbing. It would also be good to cover the thumb/index finger shifters common on flat bar bikes.
Nice to see a beginner series....would be nice to see 105 level,bikes as well, Dura Ace Di2 with a handlebar bag on a race bike is sacrilege...a proper saddlebag is a less Fred move....
I would love to cycle where GCN does because there are never any cars about. I wouldn’t know what cycling was if it wasn’t a constant life-threatening experience.
This series must be for millionaire beginner cyclists. You don't even know what gears are, but you've bought a bike with electronic shifting. GCN to the rescue!
Exactly my thoughts!!! Great series but might be a touch too far on for this one. One question that came up from watching this with a novice was clarity on the shifting movement. DI levers are much more like buttons than leavers, maybe would have been move obvious with mechanical levers? Top work great series what next?
it blows my mind that people don't know, maybe just me, but it seemed pretty intuitive, you want not struggle when biking, that's why it's one of the best energy to movement (idk right term) ratios in all human powered locomotion, better than skateboards, or scooters. at least for me I want to be able to spin my pedals comfortably all the time, idk why someone wouldn't want to
I still don’t understand what gear should be what when in steep hill, flat and down hill. Like how the sprocket thing has correlation with the big chains on the front … tryna figure out this gear thingy 🙏🙏🙏
Generally, you'll want to have your legs spinning round at a comfortable rate, around 60-70 times per minute. Going up hills, you'll want to be in the bigger gears on the cassette at the rear of the bike, and the smaller gears on the chain ring by the pedals. For downhill, it's the opposite! And on the flats, somewhere in between. Ollie explains bicycle gearing a lot more in this video on our GCN Tech channel, which might help: th-cam.com/video/YhOT5GYUZJw/w-d-xo.html
I think it was a very bad idea using electronic gears in this episode. It was difficult to see what you were actually doing and which shifters to use when changing up or down gears.
@@gcn The videos I've watched have been great so far. Maybe things like the ideal kit for starting out, road shoes vs MTB shoes (is it better starting with MTB or just going straight for road shoes), basic bike maintenance, road riding rules (choosing lanes, positioning etc.) I know there are already videos on these topics, but having them in a series like this would be ideal for people starting out ❤
Maybe could have added what was explained in the cross chaining video with Manon ad Alan ;) about the 4 rear cogs that don't get used in each chainring.
I think this needs to be redone with mechanical shifters. Way different the electronic shifter. And SRAM and Shimano shift much differently, plus you can move up to three gars when trying to get to an easier gear with both systems. Can't say anything about Campi, as I have never used them.
I I thought this was quite a useful and helpful. It's probably a little bit too technical because the actors are using electronic gears which I guess most people probably won't have full stop the video is obviously targeted at people who are not experienced cyclists so it is essential to keep it simple
Good video from the perspective of someone who is nothing special as a cyclist but definitely not a beginner. But it might have been clearer visually if you had used a turbo trainer so that the bike is fixed and you could zoom in on a static bike to give the clearest images of whats happening. Some info-geaphics of the parts of a drive train might be useful too. Its all to easy these days anyway for those of us who learned about gears using non-indexed downtube shifters. Hunting for the sweet spot to change down only one sprocket was an artform in its own right! (I wouldn't go back though!😂)
Thought you couldn't cross chain Di2 small-small?? Anyway that'll help the newbie on their Claris geared bike and no mention of trim (does Di2 have it??), and which gears are optimum for each chainring and where the point crosses over....
Hello, and I am new to your channel because I am going on a tulip bike tour in a few weeks in the Netherlands and I still don’t understand bike gears. Maybe I need to watch your episode one because I’m still confused with all of this. But I was hoping to hear more specifics on gear numbers and what the back and front levers on the left and right specifically do and when to use them. So for example, I’ve been using the one of the right more but I never remember if the back one makes my pedaling easier and lighter or the front one does; it’s the same for the larger gears in the back on the left hand, and which to use so I seem to be avoiding using it. That’s not good. I know we’re going to be having some different terrain and I want my biking to be as effortless as possible since I am new to all of this. I’d like to just write it down as well as an experience it. Glad I found your channel.
I agree with you! I just borrowed an old bike to practice on rather than rent one and it has high and low on the shifter. I still have no idea how that works. Its been 15 years since I have ridden a bike and I guess I will just have to go to a bike shop for help. Plus all the bike terminology I dont understand either
@@lindadanner1767 I think I may have figured it out. When I was in Holland on the bike tour, the locals never struggle or have any tension when they cycle either going up an incline, our level or going down an incline. It’s a smooth flow. I was told to keep the gear on the left at 2 and gear on the right fluctuating between 3 and 5 or whatever you need based on what your elevation and terrain seemed to be working and keeping the rotation at a smooth pace.
Be nice to know all the available gear ratios and when to change the front derailleur as some gear ratios must be duplicated, like biggy to biggy isn’t good as you said but middle to something on the rear derailleur must give the same gear ratio.
So, would you suggest the middle gear (front sprocket) for level ground, the smallest gear for downhill, and largest for uphill? (I may have the down/up-hill part backwards).
It’s amazing to me, the amount of people on high end bikes, wearing high end clothing that will come to a stop at lights but in a high gear. Do they drive their car that cluelessly?
Depends on how you take off and the energy you have my bike is always on high gear unless there's a climb and also type of pedals you have it would be difficult to start at high gear on SPD pedals
@@Major_Okwiri I use SPD as can walk in shoes easy and I use 53/11 all the time apart from when was going up ditchling beacon Also for John yes even at lights but it easy when wheels are less than 2kg (include tyres, cassette and stuff) also as my bike is below 6.8kg, my future bikes all be below 8kg compare to most bikes people buy of similar price be 10-12kg
It's amazing to me, the amount of people who bash into other cyclist just because they have a "high end" bike, and sometimes you want a high gear at a stop. I mean, fixies have it and its not like they break at every stoplight, sometimes its just preference 🤷
@@raulr4721 I been looking at build a fixie as how hear most below £700 not good, so been thinking to slap a 56/13 on it instead of the 48/16 they have by default A lot of my bikes I build myself as get a better bike for less than purchase one, like yes high end but I looked at Trek Emonda SLR 9 AXS and I could build one for 20% less than they sell it at, one I have at moment is like 42% less than buying similar spec and quality
More cyclists should consider hub gear sets. I know that purists will say that they are too heavy etc. etc. However, I have owned cycles with 21/27 gears of which I probably used, at most, 6. I have owned a Cube hybrid with a 8 speed Shimano Nexus hub set. There is no maintenance required and, best of all, you can change gear without needing to pedal. ,
First time I got a road bike with combined shifters I had to ask the shop how to change gear. I'd only been able to find the brakes. Made me feel like an idiot but did show the lever PIVOTED sideways. I could then work out the rest for myself. None of this pointing and seeing the chain magically change. Did you even touch the shifter in the video? I tried Di2 once while wearing gloves, which led to some unexpected gear changes! I am sticking to mechanical.
How do you change gears with a derailleur cuz my bicycle doesn't have one And my bicycle is pretty unusual like others It has only one bar and it has two circle on the handle bar and it has 1- 3 numbers on it and they're called Double suspensions
I was taught many many years ago to use the dead spot for shifting. Twelve o'clock or six o'clock, time the delay and timing is important. So you time the shift so it shifts in one of those dead spots. After a while it became second nature. Now days i dont even think about it i just automatically shift in the dead spot. This really helps when your under a load. Am i the only one who does that. Let me know. And keepemcoming.
Thank you for a great watch, my question is which gear should you be in when you’re out of the saddle (i know, how long is a bit of string!) - I believe the general rule is to drop down a couple of sprockets to take up the extra power. I’m doing this and still find that I’m slipping/spinning and not getting the right grip. Do you have to keep changing. Conor will know Felden Lane which I struggle to get up. Many thanks. CS53
Your gear is probably way too easy when you're seated that even if you shift couple of gears when standing, it's still too easy for standing that you're still slipping? Are you a very high cadence spinner by any chance? It could also be your standing technique.
no mention of internal gear hub? i think you should also talk about that. pretty sure the way you switch gears on internal gear hub is completely different. i think you are meant to stop pedaling before you switch gear and only after you have switched gear you should continue pedaling.
I started cycling on a bike with dowtube shifters. The first time I tried a bike with brifters (=brake+shifter) I went to the downtube. Where are the gears? What? Oh wait they are on the handlebars. Oops!😂 I could not find the gears when switching back to the old bike. Like trying to shift with my fingers on a brake hood. There was no gear there. Down tube it was. Also the first bike I had (mtb), had grip shift. They were easy to understand. Finger paddles were so weird at first. Now they are second nature, on any bike. I sometimes have made the mistake of shifting too late and suddenly there was a steep climb. Well, my deraillieur broke (also setup error)😢. So yeah. Still I find the old down tube shifter bike still shifts the best if we do not look at where the shifting is located, just the shifting itself. I can change all the 8 gears at once, it learned me how to spin and or grind out of almost too bad gear choices, (because shifting takes too much time and it's friction shifting never requires indexing. Set the limit screws correctly and off you go!
OK, my question is, when I'm at a stop light, do I shift down to the smaller chain ring on the front, or do I stay on big front ring and shift up in the back?
I would shift in the back 2 easier gears, as long you're not cross chaining too much. If you are going to cross chain then only shift down to the smaller chain ring.
I can’t believe that you (GCN) have done this again. A beginner video on shifting and all you can scrounge up is a high end bike with Di2? Hank did a similar video a year a two ago and he had the exact same problem - Di2. When I bought my first modern road bike in 2011 with 105’s, I had to get on line and find a video on how to use the shifters. The one I found used mechanical shifters because that is what most “beginners” buy. The first time you shift from the small ring to the big ring takes a fair amount of effort and and a much greater push than one would expect. But you can’t share that because you are using Di2. I love you guys, but really, how can you be so clueless?
What you haven’t specced your beginner road bike up with Dura Ace Di2?! 😅. Your point about the much larger push required for the front mech gear change is a good one. Also with mentioning the half push to ‘trim’ the gears (to help stop cross chain rub on the front derailleur). It’s something not everyone knows about.
@@a1white This and this The trimming of the gears is the biggest reason people fuck up the bike they are riding It has to be done or the durability of several bike parts give out ALOT quicker
Do you have to be in a certain gear at the rear to get into the big ring at the front? I only ask as I think mine only ask as I am can only get into it in certain gears. Also, on my bike I have to press the smaller button on the left to get into the big ring on the front
It's best practice to keep that chain line straight. So if you are in the small front ring you want to be in the bigger cogs at the back. When moving up try moving into the smaller rear cogs to make that change easier 🙌 We hope this helps!
Loved this. I could have used this vid 50 years ago. But I have a LOT of friends getting interested in cycling so I can slip them this vid before we venture forth. Thanks.
RE: right gear when stopping, how exactly did biggie smalls become a thing? "Go down a couple gears when stopping, unless you're taking a picture, in which case go up all the way."
I be fine by that, as I feel it rude to pass cars when at lights, I can understand that rage as car drivers move from the lights so slow and on corners they are going 10mph maybe but I am up to speed in about 5 seconds but acceleration to it is faster than drivers and I corner at like 15-20mph
I have many questions, but the only one which is pertinent to the topic of this video is, "Why ON EARTH is it so complicated?". My gravel bike has only one front gear and I find that easy to understand and master. But this looks very complicated. I guess it's a matter of getting used to, but still, it looks like everything is made as complicated as possible.
Don't bother messing with gears on your bike until you're in Secondary School. Your mum should buy you a singlespeed for your fifth birthday. As your maths and physics improves at secondary school, gearing on a bicycle will become understandable. Through school AND adult life, there should be at least one singlespeed bike in your shed. It doesn't have to be a fixed wheel. For a man, the gear is 48T ring to 18T sprocket = 72". Ride this regularly to work all your muscles. Having lots of ratios to choose from allows you to ride at a pleasant cadence whatever speed the group is travelling.
You guys need to give a more easier visual explanation on gear shifting instead of going off on a tangent of advanced bike technical jargon that is foreign language to a newbie like myself. Since im in a hilly area, for climbs am I clicking the right inner tab / larger right tab or the left inner tab / larger left tab. When going downhill which gear side should i be clicking , should I be clicking the left inner or larger tab or the right inner or larger tab ??? Your videos are misleading and not beginner friendly !
Do you have any other top tips for using your gears? 👇
Give uo all that darn shifting. Just use erg mode!
It would be kool. A continuously variable transmission computer coupled to the watt meter.
Thank you for the video!
Many beginners have asked.. how do I know what gear I have??
You simply have to look at what gear you have 😀
I always think think of it as the small shift buttons put the chain on a smaller gear ring and the large buttons put it on a larger gear ring
I have a tip in changing gear, is not to change much at all.
Here us how; first know what is your home gear. The home gear is what gear you are comfortable going into while riding on a flat road. Mine is 44 teeth on the chainring and 18 teeth on the cog when my wheel size is 27" 1-1/4 or 700c X 32.
For climbing, I use to do it on 32 teeth on my chain ring and 36 teeth on my cog.
I only shift gears when I am climbing. But I don't shift gears when I am on flat road.
Don't forget, you need to be pedalling when changing gear! If you're static and decide to change gear before setting, you'll mash the gears, cause the chain to jump - even jump off, or worse, break the chain.
Since most beginner cyclists would be using mechanical shifting, perhaps a video using pivoting shifters would be more helpful than electronic buttons or paddles. Also, many beginners will have trigger or twist shifters. Given the focus on drop bar road bikes, maybe just a quick mention of other systems would be good. Otherwise, very helpful.
Other shifting systems would be found on their respective gcn sub-channels.
This particular channel focuses on road- und gravelbikes, so their specific systems are discussed.
A tip for us beginners:
You can easily remember which lever sorts which gear/brake:
R - rear (rear gears/brake)
L - lead (front gear/brake)
Right = front gear in the UK. Right hand is the more powerful front brake, just like on a motorbike.
THANK you!!
Wish more tutorials would use simple explanations like this!
One trick I picked up recently that's to do with shifting is that when you shift in the front and your chain falls off, you can get your chain back on the chainring just by shifting back the other direction and doing another pedal stroke or two - the derailleur pulls the chain back on for you. For years when that happened I would just get off my bike and fix it with my hands (which results in some really black, greasy fingers for the rest of the ride).
This is a really nice series you've been doing here! I think a lot of beginners will find it useful - I'm pretty well versed in cycling by this point, but I've been watching to see if I can pick up any new little tidbits.
Never really happened to me on a modern bike with a modern groupset, but my vintage bike with frame shifters has a friction shifter instead of an indexed one for the front derailleur, which gets overshifted much more easily.
Yes but i think this trick works best with a modern groupset. I have friction shifter for my front mech 10-speed triple deore xt and i occasionally do this. Your right, shift the other way and it often just works. Scratches on my crank have occurred because of this though
Great video. A bigger discussion on cadence and training with gears might be helpful too
One thing you didn't mention is the "Trim" shift while in the big ring. Depending on your groupset level, some groupsets have a trim shift for the big ring. When you initially shift to the big ring, it is expected you will be in the top half of the cassette. If your not or when you downshift to lower half off the rear cassette, you need to trim shift to get the best performance and vice versa when going from the lower half to the upper half of the cassette. Electronic groupsets typically have a setting that will automatically make these adjustments while riding so you don't have to worry about it.
I really HAVE to start showing my smaller chainring a little more love - I'm WAY too often cross-chaining to my larger sprockets because I don't ENTIRELY trust my front derailleur (even though I've finally learned to set it up properly).
Good to learn the step between your two chain rings. I know that when changing between chainrings it is approximately the difference between three sprockets. So i can change both together and have a similar gearing. Especially useful when approaching a hill, change onto the smaller chainring and down 3 on the back, then on the hill i can change up the cassette as required.
You made me think but just realised you can do them together, I always focus on one derailleur at a time
I also started doing this last year and it made my riding so much smoother, especially when in a group. No more sudden slow downs on the hills.
Also you don't get those sudden changes in cadence that you have when only shifting the front ring.
@@MattRose30000 it why I can't wait to get SRAM AXS on my next bike, mainly as looking to only shift rear and it will auto shift front since depend on where riding looking to use how shift front to move the axs dropper
I don't know cadence I do, I just know I love a certain amount of pressure on my foot and why I can't cycle with my friends that go 10-11mph, I might be able to but never used road bike pedaling with one foot yet, on mountain bike I can do 9mph with one foot
I find shifting 3 at the back with the chainring puts you "where you were", in roughly the same gear ratio you where in before you shifted whereas shifting 2 at the back puts you "where you want to be" in the "next" gear up/down . But I guess it depends on the cassette spacing and the range 🤷♂
Super helpful video Manon and Conor! A helpful tip I learned from a good teacher was:"Think of if the chain is away from the core of the bike it's harder gears, whereas if the chain is nearer to the core of the bike its easier gears." This saves trying to get your head around bigger/littler sprokets being reversed front to rear. Well done you two! (I noticed that Conor left out the techniques on sabotaging your 'friend's' gears!!) I look forward to "Manon's revenge "!
I have just set up my son's little 3x9 triban3 road bike on the turbo trainer so he can get the idea of the gears before going out in the wild on it - to be fair he still needs to grown into it a bit 😅 In the mean time I want get him riding it with his meta Quest so he stops skipping leg day on bluddy gorilla tag.
There's a thought for a video:- full VR riding app reviews to get beginers/kids to engage with cycling who arent yet in a position to venture out.
His bike is microshift but the rule of thumb, which I had not twigged so thank you Manon and Connor, of small button for small cog, big one for big holds true and for an 8 year old that simple trick is pure gold!
👍👍👍👍
Just another tip... if you realize you forgot to change gears before stopping pull the front brake and push down on hoods to lift the rear wheel off the ground slightly and pedal and change gears as needed (easier with clipless)
Every time I see Conor's hi-viz shoes I am tempted to ride with hi-viz Crocs in the summertime. Drivers won't be able to say they didn't see me anymore.
Great video! really helpful for beginners and I think its really important cuz most new riders use a lack of gears!!
It can be really hard to get your head around! Hope we can help give people some confidence 🙌
Even some of us more experienced use very little gears, maybe the power I make but I sit in 53/11 all the time, even leave traffic lights in it with SPD pedals but as can walk in the shoes, only steeper hills I change from it
With the popularity of electronic shifting it would be could to explain Sequential shifting too. This is a game changer for me.
I prefer lower gears for climbing so that I can spin more. Doing this helps me to climb during a century and double century ride. Great video.
Delighted to watch this - well worth watching for new cyclists.
As a Rohloff hub owner I am very pleased with my choice - always in the right gear, regardless of speed, great range of gears and always the right one is one or two 'clicks' (gear changes) away.
For new cyclists - Rohloff make a very robust 14 gear hub gearbox similar in many ways to a car gearbox, and offering much the same range as popular derrailier gears, with far better 'gaps' betwen one gear and the next. However, Rohloff geared bikes seem to be used in a vanishingly small percentage (
Hub gears can be great option 🙌 Great to hear that you enjoyed the video!
Let’s hear it for hub gears! I use the Sturmey-Archer SRF3. If someone is really fussy about cadence and needs really small steps between gears, it might not be the best choice. But there’s a reason Raleigh built millions of three speed bikes both drop bar and upright; it’s a great all round setup.
Yup! I have a much more modest Alfine 8 and love it. Rohloff sound great and I would love one once I buy a dedicated touring bike.
It would be interesting to have a video on explaining the advantages and disadvantages of the different crankset ratios, 53/39 vs 52/36 vs 50/34. How much of a difference in everyday riding does that really make?
For my double-digit FTP, having adequate low gears is much more valuable than a large chainring that I'm never going to use. Party pace gets you everywhere you want to be... Eventually.
I have all this set ups. And I use in a different rides such flat, hilly or who am I riding with.
Quite simple. The higher your ftp the higher the number of teeth 👍
Ultimately down to personal preference. Next time you replace your chain rings try a different pair and judge for yourself.
53/39 is big boy set up 52/36 is a mid compact set up and 50/34 is a compact set up.. I have all these set ups in each of my bikes. Use it in a different kinds of rides. Flat, hilly and gradual rides..
A more in depth guide on suggested gear ratio's and what to aim for might be helpfull as well.
I guess it depends alot of on different variables, but it might help some.
Quite funny, for a beginner series, you are demonstrating on Dura Ace Di2
We are very lucky to use such nice kit but the principle remains the same across most Groupsets. What gears are you running? ⚙
@@gcn Yes that is true. I'm still rocking old 10spd mechanical Tiagra with 12-28 and compact double rings 🙂
@@a1white hope you enjoy compact, as power I put down I am doing my best to avoid compact as feel standard size like the 53/39 is only way to be, maybe if go on steep hill was it Connor went up I might change my mind
@@gcn does DI2 make you manually half trim the gears so it doesn't chain rub ? oO
Amazing video, I'm new to cycling and the gears have been a challenge for me.
Welcome aboard!
As someone who has switched from Shimano 105 mechanical to SRAM eTap, I much prefer SRAM's shift logic (right lever shift up/left lever shift down/ both for large mech). It's so much more logical, and no fumbling to only depress a certain portion of the lever. Especially when wearing gloves.
Same here. Also, at end of a long ride when I'm exhausted, Sram is way easier to get the right gear.
Thank you for the video. Just brought my first road bike cannondale synapse 2. Ok not as good as most you guys have but this video will help me on my first ride for sure.
For city riding always gear like it's a rally or a drag race. Using your highest sustainable output, shifting up/down to maintain the most comfortable cadence to do so. At stoplights start from lowest gear, shifting up to the highest going from 0-40km/h as fast as possible. Encode the chevrons on your stargate. Reach higher warpspeeds. Immerse yourself in the ride and enjoy it.
really good advice and with practice the gear changing become intuiative as you feel the gradient and gear selection
This is true ☝ Stick with it and it'll finally klick 😉... pardon the pun!
thanks for the vid!
I did pick up on that last tip where you might end up on the small ring at the front and back or the big ring at the back and front. I was told by a lad that sold me a Colnago that using the mid range gears at the back to determine which ring to use on the front. In my case my cassette is ten rings so at ring 5 & 6 I decide to go up or down on the front depending on the terrain ahead and how hard the peddling is going to be. He said, there are certain ratios that are the same depending on combinations and the big bug bear is the lateral torque on the chain with extreme selections that can shorten the chain life due to wear and tear.
What a great video so basic that not one person should not be able to understand it’s great GCN have this segment for beginner riders and that they are actually listening to what people want great keep them coming 👍👍👍
Given the increasing popularity of 1x drivetrains, a primer on them would be nice. I recently bought a Trek FX3 with a 1X drivetrain and I’m still figuring out the best gears for each situation especially climbing. It would also be good to cover the thumb/index finger shifters common on flat bar bikes.
Those tips were very helpful. thank you so much.
With this video I understand it very well, but I need to go try and see how it works. Thanks for helping me ❤❤❤❤
Nice to see a beginner series....would be nice to see 105 level,bikes as well, Dura Ace Di2 with a handlebar bag on a race bike is sacrilege...a proper saddlebag is a less Fred move....
I would love to cycle where GCN does because there are never any cars about. I wouldn’t know what cycling was if it wasn’t a constant life-threatening experience.
Some of us use an IGH. Same principles apply, but I have no problem with power on upshifting on the flat.
Gear boxes are the bee's knees when you value reliability and low maintenance over squeezing the last bit of efficiency from your bike. I love mine.
This series must be for millionaire beginner cyclists. You don't even know what gears are, but you've bought a bike with electronic shifting. GCN to the rescue!
Exactly my thoughts!!! Great series but might be a touch too far on for this one. One question that came up from watching this with a novice was clarity on the shifting movement. DI levers are much more like buttons than leavers, maybe would have been move obvious with mechanical levers? Top work great series what next?
My son 6.5 struggling with is first STi manual gears. I just change for him. It’s exciting. It’s fun. Gears.
Haha
The most fundamental aspect is physically changing gears, and you can't be arsed to get a beginner level bike to illustrate it, utter nonsense.
As a 13yrs and got my first road bike, im disappointed not being a millionaire... 😢
it blows my mind that people don't know, maybe just me, but it seemed pretty intuitive, you want not struggle when biking, that's why it's one of the best energy to movement (idk right term) ratios in all human powered locomotion, better than skateboards, or scooters. at least for me I want to be able to spin my pedals comfortably all the time, idk why someone wouldn't want to
Cheers Guys, fabulous video.
Such great exposition
Excellent!
Great video!
I still don’t understand what gear should be what when in steep hill, flat and down hill. Like how the sprocket thing has correlation with the big chains on the front … tryna figure out this gear thingy 🙏🙏🙏
Generally, you'll want to have your legs spinning round at a comfortable rate, around 60-70 times per minute. Going up hills, you'll want to be in the bigger gears on the cassette at the rear of the bike, and the smaller gears on the chain ring by the pedals. For downhill, it's the opposite! And on the flats, somewhere in between.
Ollie explains bicycle gearing a lot more in this video on our GCN Tech channel, which might help: th-cam.com/video/YhOT5GYUZJw/w-d-xo.html
I think it was a very bad idea using electronic gears in this episode. It was difficult to see what you were actually doing and which shifters to use when changing up or down gears.
I love this series of videos. Great stuff GCN 👏
We love to hear it! What do you think we should be covering? 👀
@@gcn The videos I've watched have been great so far. Maybe things like the ideal kit for starting out, road shoes vs MTB shoes (is it better starting with MTB or just going straight for road shoes), basic bike maintenance, road riding rules (choosing lanes, positioning etc.) I know there are already videos on these topics, but having them in a series like this would be ideal for people starting out ❤
@@caroline2786 mtb should be better when starting. You can clip in much easier with mtb vs road (comparing SDP to SPD SL)
My first external gear bike had friction shifters. There was some grinding. Especially on mis shifts going uphill.
Awesome & Thanks :)
Maybe could have added what was explained in the cross chaining video with Manon ad Alan ;) about the 4 rear cogs that don't get used in each chainring.
Lovely video 🎉
I think this needs to be redone with mechanical shifters. Way different the electronic shifter. And SRAM and Shimano shift much differently, plus you can move up to three gars when trying to get to an easier gear with both systems. Can't say anything about Campi, as I have never used them.
Campy multi-shift down too (as do those new LT-WOO RX/R9 levers that copy them).
I I thought this was quite a useful and helpful. It's probably a little bit too technical because the actors are using electronic gears which I guess most people probably won't have full stop the video is obviously targeted at people who are not experienced cyclists so it is essential to keep it simple
Good video from the perspective of someone who is nothing special as a cyclist but definitely not a beginner. But it might have been clearer visually if you had used a turbo trainer so that the bike is fixed and you could zoom in on a static bike to give the clearest images of whats happening. Some info-geaphics of the parts of a drive train might be useful too.
Its all to easy these days anyway for those of us who learned about gears using non-indexed downtube shifters. Hunting for the sweet spot to change down only one sprocket was an artform in its own right! (I wouldn't go back though!😂)
Thank you Conor , Manon , and crew . MMmmmm, do NOT let Conor anywhere near your bike , pre-ride ?
i needed this lol
Thought you couldn't cross chain Di2 small-small?? Anyway that'll help the newbie on their Claris geared bike and no mention of trim (does Di2 have it??), and which gears are optimum for each chainring and where the point crosses over....
Hello, and I am new to your channel because I am going on a tulip bike tour in a few weeks in the Netherlands and I still don’t understand bike gears. Maybe I need to watch your episode one because I’m still confused with all of this. But I was hoping to hear more specifics on gear numbers and what the back and front levers on the left and right specifically do and when to use them. So for example, I’ve been using the one of the right more but I never remember if the back one makes my pedaling easier and lighter or the front one does; it’s the same for the larger gears in the back on the left hand, and which to use so I seem to be avoiding using it. That’s not good. I know we’re going to be having some different terrain and I want my biking to be as effortless as possible since I am new to all of this. I’d like to just write it down as well as an experience it. Glad I found your channel.
I agree with you! I just borrowed an old bike to practice on rather than rent one and it has high and low on the shifter. I still have no idea how that works. Its been 15 years since I have ridden a bike and I guess I will just have to go to a bike shop for help. Plus all the bike terminology I dont understand either
@@lindadanner1767 I think I may have figured it out. When I was in Holland on the bike tour, the locals never struggle or have any tension when they cycle either going up an incline, our level or going down an incline. It’s a smooth flow. I was told to keep the gear on the left at 2 and gear on the right fluctuating between 3 and 5 or whatever you need based on what your elevation and terrain seemed to be working and keeping the rotation at a smooth pace.
a beginner video with electronic shifting ... i don't think a beginner would use such high-end gear
Ofc not, I'd say 70% of all people in general are riding mechanical bikes still XD
Very confusing...still don't know how to use my bike but I liked the tip about changing gears to easier before coming to a complete stop.
Be nice to know all the available gear ratios and when to change the front derailleur as some gear ratios must be duplicated, like biggy to biggy isn’t good as you said but middle to something on the rear derailleur must give the same gear ratio.
Hey english from England riders, you have the Rear Brake on the Left handle with the Front gears ?
Hi, does a 36/36 have an edge over a 34/34 either in gaining speed or climbing?
Is there a all around gear like reg bike? So you don't have to mess with gears at all just starting handicapped only transportation so a do or die.
So, would you suggest the middle gear (front sprocket) for level ground, the smallest gear for downhill, and largest for uphill? (I may have the down/up-hill part backwards).
What do you do when your cycling mate disconnects the cable from your rear derailleur?
Hahaha ask Manon 👀 👉 th-cam.com/video/9IOXbZzIfVg/w-d-xo.html
It’s amazing to me, the amount of people on high end bikes, wearing high end clothing that will come to a stop at lights but in a high gear. Do they drive their car that cluelessly?
Depends on how you take off and the energy you have my bike is always on high gear unless there's a climb and also type of pedals you have it would be difficult to start at high gear on SPD pedals
@@Major_Okwiri I use SPD as can walk in shoes easy and I use 53/11 all the time apart from when was going up ditchling beacon
Also for John yes even at lights but it easy when wheels are less than 2kg (include tyres, cassette and stuff) also as my bike is below 6.8kg, my future bikes all be below 8kg compare to most bikes people buy of similar price be 10-12kg
It's amazing to me, the amount of people who bash into other cyclist just because they have a "high end" bike, and sometimes you want a high gear at a stop. I mean, fixies have it and its not like they break at every stoplight, sometimes its just preference 🤷
@@raulr4721 I been looking at build a fixie as how hear most below £700 not good, so been thinking to slap a 56/13 on it instead of the 48/16 they have by default
A lot of my bikes I build myself as get a better bike for less than purchase one, like yes high end but I looked at Trek Emonda SLR 9 AXS and I could build one for 20% less than they sell it at, one I have at moment is like 42% less than buying similar spec and quality
You know you can change gear in your car while standing still?
More cyclists should consider hub gear sets. I know that purists will say that they are too heavy etc. etc. However, I have owned cycles with 21/27 gears of which I probably used, at most, 6. I have owned a Cube hybrid with a 8 speed Shimano Nexus hub set. There is no maintenance required and, best of all, you can change gear without needing to pedal.
,
First time I got a road bike with combined shifters I had to ask the shop how to change gear. I'd only been able to find the brakes. Made me feel like an idiot but did show the lever PIVOTED sideways. I could then work out the rest for myself.
None of this pointing and seeing the chain magically change. Did you even touch the shifter in the video?
I tried Di2 once while wearing gloves, which led to some unexpected gear changes! I am sticking to mechanical.
How do you change gears with a derailleur cuz my bicycle doesn't have one
And my bicycle is pretty unusual like others
It has only one bar and it has two circle on the handle bar and it has 1- 3 numbers on it and they're called Double suspensions
What sunglasses is Conor wearing? Are there any you guys recommend for cycling?
I was taught many many years ago to use the dead spot for shifting.
Twelve o'clock or six o'clock, time the delay and timing is important.
So you time the shift so it shifts in one of those dead spots. After a while it became second nature. Now days i dont even think about it i just automatically shift in the dead spot. This really helps when your under a load. Am i the only one who does that. Let me know. And keepemcoming.
What are the buttons on Di2?
Thank you for a great watch, my question is which gear should you be in when you’re out of the saddle (i know, how long is a bit of string!) - I believe the general rule is to drop down a couple of sprockets to take up the extra power. I’m doing this and still find that I’m slipping/spinning and not getting the right grip. Do you have to keep changing. Conor will know Felden Lane which I struggle to get up. Many thanks.
CS53
Your gear is probably way too easy when you're seated that even if you shift couple of gears when standing, it's still too easy for standing that you're still slipping? Are you a very high cadence spinner by any chance? It could also be your standing technique.
Thank you very much, I’ll try that. Cadence is generally around 70/80 - age
can an aluminium frame take some rocky roads and some bumps ???
no mention of internal gear hub? i think you should also talk about that. pretty sure the way you switch gears on internal gear hub is completely different. i think you are meant to stop pedaling before you switch gear and only after you have switched gear you should continue pedaling.
I started cycling on a bike with dowtube shifters. The first time I tried a bike with brifters (=brake+shifter) I went to the downtube. Where are the gears? What? Oh wait they are on the handlebars. Oops!😂
I could not find the gears when switching back to the old bike. Like trying to shift with my fingers on a brake hood. There was no gear there. Down tube it was.
Also the first bike I had (mtb), had grip shift. They were easy to understand. Finger paddles were so weird at first. Now they are second nature, on any bike.
I sometimes have made the mistake of shifting too late and suddenly there was a steep climb. Well, my deraillieur broke (also setup error)😢. So yeah.
Still I find the old down tube shifter bike still shifts the best if we do not look at where the shifting is located, just the shifting itself. I can change all the 8 gears at once, it learned me how to spin and or grind out of almost too bad gear choices, (because shifting takes too much time and it's friction shifting never requires indexing. Set the limit screws correctly and off you go!
OK, my question is, when I'm at a stop light, do I shift down to the smaller chain ring on the front, or do I stay on big front ring and shift up in the back?
I would shift in the back 2 easier gears, as long you're not cross chaining too much. If you are going to cross chain then only shift down to the smaller chain ring.
I drop down a ring at the front. Then you're pulling off in a lower gear. You can the change gear as necessary to get back to your regular cadence
I can’t believe that you (GCN) have done this again. A beginner video on shifting and all you can scrounge up is a high end bike with Di2? Hank did a similar video a year a two ago and he had the exact same problem - Di2. When I bought my first modern road bike in 2011 with 105’s, I had to get on line and find a video on how to use the shifters. The one I found used mechanical shifters because that is what most “beginners” buy. The first time you shift from the small ring to the big ring takes a fair amount of effort and and a much greater push than one would expect. But you can’t share that because you are using Di2. I love you guys, but really, how can you be so clueless?
What you haven’t specced your beginner road bike up with Dura Ace Di2?! 😅. Your point about the much larger push required for the front mech gear change is a good one. Also with mentioning the half push to ‘trim’ the gears (to help stop cross chain rub on the front derailleur). It’s something not everyone knows about.
@@a1white This and this
The trimming of the gears is the biggest reason people fuck up the bike they are riding
It has to be done or the durability of several bike parts give out ALOT quicker
@@a1white I didn't know about trimming gears, thanks.
Can’t believe this has to be taught! I learnt this pre internet days and without a instruction manual . 🤷♂️
What I missed is information about cross-chaining. Maybe that is a thing of the past with modern tech?
Do you have to be in a certain gear at the rear to get into the big ring at the front? I only ask as I think mine only ask as I am can only get into it in certain gears. Also, on my bike I have to press the smaller button on the left to get into the big ring on the front
It's best practice to keep that chain line straight. So if you are in the small front ring you want to be in the bigger cogs at the back. When moving up try moving into the smaller rear cogs to make that change easier 🙌 We hope this helps!
Gear. Did Conner have a bar bag?
Loved this. I could have used this vid 50 years ago. But I have a LOT of friends getting interested in cycling so I can slip them this vid before we venture forth. Thanks.
Conor, for your own safety, clean your bike before Oli gets mad!
RE: right gear when stopping, how exactly did biggie smalls become a thing? "Go down a couple gears when stopping, unless you're taking a picture, in which case go up all the way."
Not too many beginners are going to be pressing buttons...
here's a link to an equally informative video on how to use a microwave.
th-cam.com/video/LEgAalGlgNA/w-d-xo.html
Can deffo feel some rage when you rock up front of the red lights on highest gear and everyone’s just waiting on my slow ass 😆
Don't let it get to you, Hold your line and you'll be fine 🙌
I be fine by that, as I feel it rude to pass cars when at lights, I can understand that rage as car drivers move from the lights so slow and on corners they are going 10mph maybe but I am up to speed in about 5 seconds but acceleration to it is faster than drivers and I corner at like 15-20mph
I have many questions, but the only one which is pertinent to the topic of this video is, "Why ON EARTH is it so complicated?". My gravel bike has only one front gear and I find that easy to understand and master. But this looks very complicated. I guess it's a matter of getting used to, but still, it looks like everything is made as complicated as possible.
Electronic is easy
Mechanical also has trim shifting, which has to be used or you mess up your bike very fast
@@WeallAreAdults Precisely. I will probably mess it up very fast indeed.
(Retro Grouch Single-Speeder has entered the conversation...)
Don't bother messing with gears on your bike until you're in Secondary School.
Your mum should buy you a singlespeed for your fifth birthday.
As your maths and physics improves at secondary school, gearing on a bicycle will become understandable.
Through school AND adult life, there should be at least one singlespeed bike in your shed. It doesn't have to be a fixed wheel. For a man, the gear is 48T ring to 18T sprocket = 72".
Ride this regularly to work all your muscles.
Having lots of ratios to choose from allows you to ride at a pleasant cadence whatever speed the group is travelling.
Maybe I missed it, but one rule to always follow is be pedaling when you shift.
If the gears aren't turning they can't shift.
It’s not raining - it nearly looks like Australian weather
A lucky filming window 😂
I wish you used beginner bikes. Most of us don't have buttons.
Still confused
Just go with the middle sprocket on front and rear, your legs will compensate.....it's what I do😅
Did she say "world-wind"? LOL
man your bike tires are inane to me 😅 I have an electric bike with those 4 inch stubby tires
That seat height is comical
If you ride a bike with bike role you earn money
Make a MECHANICAL gears dude
conor used big button/small button to explain the gears. Manon used closer/further from you. pretty annoying inconsistency
You guys need to give a more easier visual explanation on gear shifting instead of going off on a tangent of advanced bike technical jargon that is foreign language to a newbie like myself. Since im in a hilly area, for climbs am I clicking the right inner tab / larger right tab or the left inner tab / larger left tab. When going downhill which gear side should i be clicking , should I be clicking the left inner or larger tab or the right inner or larger tab ??? Your videos are misleading and not beginner friendly !
Manon in shorts and Conor in leg warmers. Come on Conor, man up lad.
I jate geared bikes 🤣