One of the reasons I spent the bucks and “finally” purchased a last chance easy green bow press….thank you for this video Levi as it is obviously an important step in keeping our bows dialed in…also that tip of “maybe” running the top timing slightly ahead of the bottom is awesome….😊
Another thing that makes a massive difference to the performance of bow's that no one seems to talk about is the timing marks on the cam's and how much difference it makes to your bow.
Sometimes (especially if only doing a half twist) you might want to shoot a couple arrows through it before checking timing again because that half twist is more likely to cause that cable to want to ball up versus doing a full twist. Shoot a few arrows after twisting anything will let the strands in that cable or string settle. You can also use a very short piece of d-loop material (burn both ends) as an alternative to a peep tuner…
thank you very much, inspired to check mine and they were far off took me a while to figure i had to even lenght of the pole cables to match the top, before that it was impossible to get timing correct my top cam has bit lean issue so its bit tight on a poles
Its so hard to find someone you can trust to work on bows, and most generally not everyone has the press etc to work on their own stuff, thanks for sharing
I don’t know of a bow shop that will go anywhere close to this level of detail to get you setup. Slap a rest and sight on paper tune a decent hole, and off you go The only answer is to spend the $5-600 dollars and get the ez press and draw board and learn it yourself or have a buddy like levi
Heck a good percentage of the time people get sent home with the wrong spine arrows and a $2000 setup that won’t even paper tune because the cam spacers aren’t in the right configuration Then bow shops wonder why people would rather shop online and do their own work
Levi, One thing i don’t see many talk about is, see how the press holds the grip in the deepest part. we dont have out pressure point there. Especially you as it looks you shoot a low wrist grip. It is usually about and inch or more lower on the handle. If you move that pressure point down the grip and was able to replicate that. That would be exact timing. i bet if you was able to do that and re test that against the deepest part of the grip. It would be off again…Are we really shooting a perfect timed bow? Given the normal method like in the video. Just a thought i always had.
Seriously one of the best in the world and people are gonna tell you you are way off completely wrong lol i find it hilarious this happens with everyone that i follow that is real good
But the timing also depends on your manner of holding the bow, if you hold your hand so that the pressure is closer to the arrow, then the upper block comes earlier and vice versa. Different people do it a little differently, so it will be OK for one and you need to configure it for the other. The machine does it also in its own way so that you set up for the machine and not for yourself.
I thinks it’s worth noting the bow needs to be level in the draw board and or the rope that’s pulling it needs to be 90 degrees to the string. Even yours In the last chance isn’t level it 100 percent makes a difference. With the top of the bow leaning back it’s going to make it appear that the bottom is ahead. But if u grab that bow and tilt it level you’ll watch the top stop move towards the cable while the bottom stop stays still. Big fan of you brother but you do miss the mark sometimes on the technical side of archery. Also Paige shoots her bottom stop quite a ways ahead of the top. Top ahead is not the be all end all. She feels that bottom stop ahead helps her with a low hold.
@@tannerharris1483 that would be the majority forsure. Myself included. But not trying bottom ahead to see what works best for you would be insanity. I know a few other top class shooters that have always shot bottom ahead. Obviously with back walls getting firmer and firmer can advancement as a whole has started to get closer to even. Theres no loose cables that we need to take the slack out of. Paige shoots her bottom stop ahead up to 1.5 twist on the bowtech which has a very firm wall. That’s like 1/4 inch before the top. Sounds crazy to me but obviously it’s working. The draw board not being level is killing folks though. I’m sure Levi is using that as a good starting point and he’s tweaking for tune. This is why you see all the low tear complaints with Mathews on the forums. They have the bottom cam ahead and don’t even realize it bc the top of the bow is leaning back in the drawboard giving a false reading on cam timing. We shoot them level. So the timing in our hands doesn’t match what’s in un level drawboard. Levi’s isn’t nearly as bad and probally has minimal effect 1/8th at most but U see most of them very canted in the draw board in bow shops and on TH-cam etc.
I've experienced the same thing when timing on a draw board. I always final check timing by slowly drawing the bow back in front of a mirror so I can watch the cams and cables hit the stops.
@@451whitworth4 yea I’ve built a level drawboard but I use the mirror trick as well. I can creep off the wall in infinite amounts that’s just as accurate if not more. One other thing I do when checking timing is remove felt from mods and lossen the rest cable so it stays relaxed. I’ve seen both of those things give false illusions in cam timing.
One of the reasons I spent the bucks and “finally” purchased a last chance easy green bow press….thank you for this video Levi as it is obviously an important step in keeping our bows dialed in…also that tip of “maybe” running the top timing slightly ahead of the bottom is awesome….😊
As the old saying goes. Timing is everything!
Soooo true bud lol
Great info. Most videos that try to teach this don't explain which cable to twist. You explained it perfectly
Another thing that makes a massive difference to the performance of bow's that no one seems to talk about is the timing marks on the cam's and how much difference it makes to your bow.
Very important info!!! Thanks Levi.
I love all of your how to and tutorial videos. Thank you guys!
Awesome video, we need more of these!
Sometimes (especially if only doing a half twist) you might want to shoot a couple arrows through it before checking timing again because that half twist is more likely to cause that cable to want to ball up versus doing a full twist. Shoot a few arrows after twisting anything will let the strands in that cable or string settle. You can also use a very short piece of d-loop material (burn both ends) as an alternative to a peep tuner…
thank you very much, inspired to check mine and they were far off
took me a while to figure i had to even lenght of the pole cables to match the top, before that it was impossible to get timing correct
my top cam has bit lean issue so its bit tight on a poles
Great Video, Thanks Levi!
Very good lesson, keep em coming !
Tuning a newer Mathew’s and you’re in between half twists, pull the axle and do a half twist in the yoke cable opposite of the stop hitting first.
Gah I needed this video like last October 😂
Its so hard to find someone you can trust to work on bows, and most generally not everyone has the press etc to work on their own stuff, thanks for sharing
I don’t know of a bow shop that will go anywhere close to this level of detail to get you setup.
Slap a rest and sight on paper tune a decent hole, and off you go
The only answer is to spend the $5-600 dollars and get the ez press and draw board and learn it yourself or have a buddy like levi
Heck a good percentage of the time people get sent home with the wrong spine arrows and a $2000 setup that won’t even paper tune because the cam spacers aren’t in the right configuration
Then bow shops wonder why people would rather shop online and do their own work
@@user-ph1nc7ux3u Go over to Los Cazadores in Stonewall, Texas and you’ll get the best service you’ve ever had in your life.
Levi,
One thing i don’t see many talk about is, see how the press holds the grip in the deepest part. we dont have out pressure point there. Especially you as it looks you shoot a low wrist grip. It is usually about and inch or more lower on the handle.
If you move that pressure point down the grip and was able to replicate that. That would be exact timing. i bet if you was able to do that and re test that against the deepest part of the grip. It would be off again…Are we really shooting a perfect timed bow? Given the normal method like in the video. Just a thought i always had.
Very helpful. Thank you!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Great video 👍🏼
I will get mine checked out tomorrow. I want to see how far he can shoot and his take on long shots.
The video every archer needs to watch
Seriously one of the best in the world and people are gonna tell you you are way off completely wrong lol i find it hilarious this happens with everyone that i follow that is real good
I agree bud lol….the world we live in it seems lol😊
Does the position/offset of the handle relative to the line of pull on the drawboard matter for timing?
@levi Morgan could you tell it was out of alignment when you checked the holes on the cams?
Is the rule of thumb to add the half twist to the cable on the side of the cam stop that is hitting first?
This is why I'll stick with my solo cam, and it's just a easier shooting bow
But the timing also depends on your manner of holding the bow, if you hold your hand so that the pressure is closer to the arrow, then the upper block comes earlier and vice versa. Different people do it a little differently, so it will be OK for one and you need to configure it for the other. The machine does it also in its own way so that you set up for the machine and not for yourself.
So the cable overtime stretches and that’s what makes the timing go off?
Good shit!
Hey Levi, do you think you could do an arrow build video for us and show what you use?
He's already done that years ago...
@@Night-le9ys exactly. Years ago. He’s shooting a completely different arrow now.
Great video. Luke 9:62
Levi. What is a peep tuner?
talk about tiller sometime thanks.
If you use a half twist after the bow has been shot a while, putting a half twist in the cables will seperate the serving.
I thinks it’s worth noting the bow needs to be level in the draw board and or the rope that’s pulling it needs to be 90 degrees to the string. Even yours In the last chance isn’t level it 100 percent makes a difference. With the top of the bow leaning back it’s going to make it appear that the bottom is ahead. But if u grab that bow and tilt it level you’ll watch the top stop move towards the cable while the bottom stop stays still.
Big fan of you brother but you do miss the mark sometimes on the technical side of archery.
Also Paige shoots her bottom stop quite a ways ahead of the top. Top ahead is not the be all end all. She feels that bottom stop ahead helps her with a low hold.
Everyone is different but as a general rule if anything it’s ok for top to be slightly ahead. I’ve found that to be true for me.
@@tannerharris1483 that would be the majority forsure. Myself included. But not trying bottom ahead to see what works best for you would be insanity. I know a few other top class shooters that have always shot bottom ahead. Obviously with back walls getting firmer and firmer can advancement as a whole has started to get closer to even. Theres no loose cables that we need to take the slack out of.
Paige shoots her bottom stop ahead up to 1.5 twist on the bowtech which has a very firm wall. That’s like 1/4 inch before the top. Sounds crazy to me but obviously it’s working.
The draw board not being level is killing folks though. I’m sure Levi is using that as a good starting point and he’s tweaking for tune.
This is why you see all the low tear complaints with Mathews on the forums. They have the bottom cam ahead and don’t even realize it bc the top of the bow is leaning back in the drawboard giving a false reading on cam timing. We shoot them level. So the timing in our hands doesn’t match what’s in un level drawboard. Levi’s isn’t nearly as bad and probally has minimal effect 1/8th at most but U see most of them very canted in the draw board in bow shops and on TH-cam etc.
I've experienced the same thing when timing on a draw board. I always final check timing by slowly drawing the bow back in front of a mirror so I can watch the cams and cables hit the stops.
@@451whitworth4 yea I’ve built a level drawboard but I use the mirror trick as well. I can creep off the wall in infinite amounts that’s just as accurate if not more. One other thing I do when checking timing is remove felt from mods and lossen the rest cable so it stays relaxed. I’ve seen both of those things give false illusions in cam timing.
I was going to ask about this. I have to move my bow quite a bit on the draw board to get the nocked arrow level.