I have this on my Lance Armstrong Trek ,right Shifter was swapped out to 105 9spd and I replaced cassette/chain just fine at $60 . Id like to try out 11spd but for now all good
I was looking at the condition of that 6500 group and thinking that this owner obviously didn't care for his bike. Mine from '02 still looks fantastic. Some people just don't take care of stuff nor take pride in what they own.
What are your thoughts on traditional vs compressionless brake housing? Just bought trp spyre calipers for my cross bike and I'm wondering if it's worth the extra money.
Not Joey, sorry. I went from regular housing to Jagwire compressionless (TRP Spyres here as well). To me the change didn't feel drastic, but it was a nice change for sure. The levers definitely have a sharper, more pronounced bite point, and both the front and the back feel very similar despite the massive difference in the housing length which is nice. In terms of power, i'm not sure if i've noticed a difference. Whether it's worth the money... I'm not sure. My Jagwire kit (cables + housing) cost me €32, regular housing + cables would have cost me like what, less than a quarter than that? I am happy that I went with compressionless, but sometimes when I think about how much money i've spent on it, it feels a bit ridiculous. But I survived paying the €32 and i'm not living out on the streets because of it so I guess it's kind of okay. 🤷♂️
If the housing has a pretty straight path with no major cable bends, I'd say the compressionless housing feels about 10% firmer. If it's on a bike with a long 3-4ft housing run it works well, but on systems with cable stops and tight bends, it tends to bind up the inner wire. It's also easier to damage and kink the housing as it just doesn't give as much if it gets bumped into or the bars get turned too far. It feels great in the right application and I've used it 3 or 4 times on my personal bikes, but honestly anymore, I just use regular teflon lined spiral brake housing. Thanks for the question!
I have 2001 Litespeed Arenberg that has a 6500 groupset and wanted to upgrade it to something similar. what was the cost of that upgrade? Im debating on keeping the bike and upgrading it or selling it to get a new one.
Octalink BB's are either Italian or standard English threaded type. Unless you have an Italian bicycle, it's probably and English threaded type. If you're looking to upgrade, there will be a Shimano hollow tech II that will bolt right in. If you remove your existing octalink BB, all the sizing and thread info is printed on the outside of the BB shell. Thanks for the question!
Good info. Thanks. Im getting the frame i just built powder coated this week. I need to start scrounging parts. I guess ebay is a good starting point. Ultegra or 105?
I went from 105-5600 to the new 105-7000 with hydraulic disc. Night and day difference. I’d be interested to see what generation of DuraAce the current 105 outperforms.
I'd say the current 5801 105 outperforms the Dura Ace 7900 and everything back from there. Especially with the hydraulic disc brakes. Thanks for commenting Kevin!
It's mostly a pretty basic bolt-on swap. You'll need the specific bottom bracket tools to remove the old BB and specific tools to install the new one, but everything else is pretty much a 2, 4, and 5mm hex key. The R8000 front derailleur can be tricky if you've never installed one. I've got another video on that: th-cam.com/video/T57glZEeJw8/w-d-xo.html If you have an 8-9-10 speed freehub body, you can use the 11-34 11-speed cassette on it as it's the same width. If you're using a closer ratio cassette like an 11-32 or 11-28, you'll need the 11speed freehub body. The new 11-speed chain connector links are harder to pop into place compared to SRAM or KMC quick links, but other than those things, it's a pretty easy install. Thanks for the question!
Joey Mesa, I have a recent Roval freehub 11spd that came with 11-32. I switched to 11-28 and found the lockring did not engage but 1&1/2 threads. I compared lockrings of 4 old cassettes to find one with a slight bit more thread and was able to use it. I don’t know why there would be a difference however it seems to be.
Some are actually pretty clean. Seems like the guys with high end mountain bikes like to keep them really clean, but in general, we get a lot of really dirty ones as well.
Yes, but you would need the chain and derailleur as well. If you're planning on using a cassette smaller than an 11-34, you would need a free hub body that fits an 11 speed cassettes well. 11-34 cassettes have the same spacing as a 8-9-10 speed free hub body. 11 speed cassettes with the largest cassette cog smaller than 34 teeth are wider overall and need the wider free hub.
@@JoeyMesa I have 9 Speed DA and want to swap to 11 speed Ultegra. If I use an 11-34 cassette I can keep the free hub body, but if I go smaller than 11-34 I need to swap the free hub. Is that correct?
Glad I ran into this video. I am looking into purchasing a bike with the older 10 speed drivetrain and was thinking of swapping in a newer drivetrain.
Red bar tape was an excellent decision. It really makes the bike "pop".
I run the 11 speed Ultegra groupset on two of my bikes. It's a solid well performing groupset.
Yeah, I have it on my road bike. I had the 6500 group on a couple bikes many years ago and there's a pretty big performance jump between the two!
I still love the looks of the 6500 groupo.
I have this on my Lance Armstrong Trek ,right Shifter was swapped out to 105 9spd and I replaced cassette/chain just fine at $60 . Id like to try out 11spd but for now all good
Did you mention the weight saving ?
Not much weight savings in the shifters that I know of, but the ergonomics and shift performance are much better.
I was looking at the condition of that 6500 group and thinking that this owner obviously didn't care for his bike. Mine from '02 still looks fantastic. Some people just don't take care of stuff nor take pride in what they own.
Keep in mind that group is 10-14 years old. The guy who owned the bike rode it "a lot".
What are your thoughts on traditional vs compressionless brake housing? Just bought trp spyre calipers for my cross bike and I'm wondering if it's worth the extra money.
Not Joey, sorry. I went from regular housing to Jagwire compressionless (TRP Spyres here as well). To me the change didn't feel drastic, but it was a nice change for sure. The levers definitely have a sharper, more pronounced bite point, and both the front and the back feel very similar despite the massive difference in the housing length which is nice. In terms of power, i'm not sure if i've noticed a difference.
Whether it's worth the money... I'm not sure. My Jagwire kit (cables + housing) cost me €32, regular housing + cables would have cost me like what, less than a quarter than that? I am happy that I went with compressionless, but sometimes when I think about how much money i've spent on it, it feels a bit ridiculous. But I survived paying the €32 and i'm not living out on the streets because of it so I guess it's kind of okay. 🤷♂️
If the housing has a pretty straight path with no major cable bends, I'd say the compressionless housing feels about 10% firmer. If it's on a bike with a long 3-4ft housing run it works well, but on systems with cable stops and tight bends, it tends to bind up the inner wire. It's also easier to damage and kink the housing as it just doesn't give as much if it gets bumped into or the bars get turned too far. It feels great in the right application and I've used it 3 or 4 times on my personal bikes, but honestly anymore, I just use regular teflon lined spiral brake housing.
Thanks for the question!
I have 2001 Litespeed Arenberg that has a 6500 groupset and wanted to upgrade it to something similar. what was the cost of that upgrade? Im debating on keeping the bike and upgrading it or selling it to get a new one.
Parts and labor total cost was around $1000
hi I have a bicycle equipped with shimano ultegra 6500, with octalink bottom bracket what type of bottom bracket can I put in the frame?
Octalink BB's are either Italian or standard English threaded type. Unless you have an Italian bicycle, it's probably and English threaded type. If you're looking to upgrade, there will be a Shimano hollow tech II that will bolt right in. If you remove your existing octalink BB, all the sizing and thread info is printed on the outside of the BB shell.
Thanks for the question!
my bottom bracket is an Italian thread of 70 mm 109.5 long, thank you very much for your kindness
Can I have the hood covers off your old shifters?! The covers on my 6500s are falling apart and it's impossible to find a replacement haha
I'd sell them if they were mine! This was a repair I did a while back, so I'm sure I gave all the old parts back to the customer,
Good info. Thanks. Im getting the frame i just built powder coated this week. I need to start scrounging parts. I guess ebay is a good starting point. Ultegra or 105?
It really just depends on your budget. If you can swing the Ultegra components, they'll last longer, but you won't go wrong if you go with the 105.
I went from 105-5600 to the new 105-7000 with hydraulic disc. Night and day difference. I’d be interested to see what generation of DuraAce the current 105 outperforms.
I'd say the current 5801 105 outperforms the Dura Ace 7900 and everything back from there. Especially with the hydraulic disc brakes.
Thanks for commenting Kevin!
Good video! Any particular issues or tips for someone who would like to replicate what you did?
It's mostly a pretty basic bolt-on swap. You'll need the specific bottom bracket tools to remove the old BB and specific tools to install the new one, but everything else is pretty much a 2, 4, and 5mm hex key. The R8000 front derailleur can be tricky if you've never installed one. I've got another video on that: th-cam.com/video/T57glZEeJw8/w-d-xo.html
If you have an 8-9-10 speed freehub body, you can use the 11-34 11-speed cassette on it as it's the same width. If you're using a closer ratio cassette like an 11-32 or 11-28, you'll need the 11speed freehub body.
The new 11-speed chain connector links are harder to pop into place compared to SRAM or KMC quick links, but other than those things, it's a pretty easy install.
Thanks for the question!
Joey Mesa Thanks a million for your answer. Very useful for an amateur bike mechanic!
Joey Mesa, I have a recent Roval freehub 11spd that came with 11-32. I switched to 11-28 and found the lockring did not engage but 1&1/2 threads. I compared lockrings of 4 old cassettes to find one with a slight bit more thread and was able to use it. I don’t know why there would be a difference however it seems to be.
You upgrade an overall 300€ bike with a 700€ Ultegra group? Bruh...man.....
I always clean my bikes when i take it into the shop
You're an exception, trust me. 😁
Some are actually pretty clean. Seems like the guys with high end mountain bikes like to keep them really clean, but in general, we get a lot of really dirty ones as well.
Is it possible to swap out only the cassette and shifters of R6500 to upgrade to 11speed r8000? Sorry bike noob here.
Yes, but you would need the chain and derailleur as well. If you're planning on using a cassette smaller than an 11-34, you would need a free hub body that fits an 11 speed cassettes well. 11-34 cassettes have the same spacing as a 8-9-10 speed free hub body. 11 speed cassettes with the largest cassette cog smaller than 34 teeth are wider overall and need the wider free hub.
@@JoeyMesa I have 9 Speed DA and want to swap to 11 speed Ultegra. If I use an 11-34 cassette I can keep the free hub body, but if I go smaller than 11-34 I need to swap the free hub. Is that correct?
@@johnhanson9245 correct!