Hi Gary, a great tutorial, I enjoyed watching every second of it. I like that you take your time, don't rush, and explain everything ( you never assume that we the viewer, know everything, or anything ) and that's what makes an excellent teacher. Great video, you need way more subscribers. Thanks for sharing this technique with us ! - Frosty in Canada
how long do you suppose the tree will take until the callous growth completely covers the wound? Was this wound the same size as the one that calloused over in q0 years? I would have waited for the tree to start a nice ring of would wood before I made the final cut
Good video. I have a slightly different approach.. I'd explain to the client that its better for the tree to leave a stub. Leave stub as long as possible, wait to see if it dies. When it dies, I'd wait some years til the callous growth has clearly formed around the limb, then oh so carefully, cut the stub just outside the growth..giving the tree some years to do naturally what you are doing with the rind oil, while precluding any chance of cutting into the live tissue of the main stem..
@TreeCreature If a stub is left there is a good chance the wound wood will gradually close around the branch and eventually seal as the branch disintegrates. Once wound wood has formed around the branch and reduced the surface area the stub can be cut back if desired. The problem with regular pruning is that it creates large wound that often takes years to fully close. A stub acts as a buffer.
I would definitely leave a stub for a branch as big as the one in the video. That wound could take more than a decade to close and in that time the wood will rot and wood peckers and other animals could open it up.
@@ianm5864 this is a misunderstanding. A stub is usually referring to leaving branch tissue in excess of the preserved collar, with a flush cut having not preserved the collar and cut into the trunk tissue. I advocate cutting to the collar
Blair is very knowledgable. He and this man share a lot of attributes. Blair mainly says leave it alone when talking about large open cavities and filling them with foam. He's still open to the bees wax idea
Shigo showed how trees develop phenols and terpenes in response to wounds. Adding terpenes may not be so bad. This is also not creating a waterproof seal that will lead to rot, but rather preventing drying of the wood and fungal decay
Hi Gary, a great tutorial, I enjoyed watching every second of it. I like that you take your time, don't rush, and explain everything ( you never assume that we the viewer, know everything, or anything ) and that's what makes an excellent teacher. Great video, you need way more subscribers. Thanks for sharing this technique with us ! - Frosty in Canada
Very enjoyable to watch . Can you do another follow-up to see how this treatment has helped further? Thanks!
Does the orange rind oil act as a preventative fungicide? Also, where did you find those great pump sprayers?
how long do you suppose the tree will take until the callous growth completely covers the wound? Was this wound the same size as the one that calloused over in q0 years? I would have waited for the tree to start a nice ring of would wood before I made the final cut
10-15 years this could take. It depends a lot on the tree species
Where do you get the orange rind oil?
You can buy D-limonene, which is orange rind oil.
It is a safe solvent used often in organic chemistry. Don't go drinking it though haha
Good video. I have a slightly different approach.. I'd explain to the client that its better for the tree to leave a stub. Leave stub as long as possible, wait to see if it dies. When it dies, I'd wait some years til the callous growth has clearly formed around the limb, then oh so carefully, cut the stub just outside the growth..giving the tree some years to do naturally what you are doing with the rind oil, while precluding any chance of cutting into the live tissue of the main stem..
That doesn't give the tree a chance to seal over the wound though
I wouldn’t leave a stub when pruning small branches but for large branches I would.
@TreeCreature If a stub is left there is a good chance the wound wood will gradually close around the branch and eventually seal as the branch disintegrates. Once wound wood has formed around the branch and reduced the surface area the stub can be cut back if desired. The problem with regular pruning is that it creates large wound that often takes years to fully close. A stub acts as a buffer.
I would definitely leave a stub for a branch as big as the one in the video. That wound could take more than a decade to close and in that time the wood will rot and wood peckers and other animals could open it up.
@@ianm5864 this is a misunderstanding. A stub is usually referring to leaving branch tissue in excess of the preserved collar, with a flush cut having not preserved the collar and cut into the trunk tissue.
I advocate cutting to the collar
Arborist glenn blair on youtube says to leave it alone. Talk to him to coinvince you whats the right way.
Blair is very knowledgable. He and this man share a lot of attributes. Blair mainly says leave it alone when talking about large open cavities and filling them with foam. He's still open to the bees wax idea
Shigo showed how trees develop phenols and terpenes in response to wounds.
Adding terpenes may not be so bad. This is also not creating a waterproof seal that will lead to rot, but rather preventing drying of the wood and fungal decay
poor tree health likely the result of ongoing geoengineering chemical sprays and weather modification
Thankyou. This is such an ignored problem.
They claim the climate and cry climate change and carbon tax.
They cry out as they strike us