Wow.....I under stand that feeling you have when you bring life to a motor, you have put your heart and soul into it. I feel very lucky that the shop I work in has allowed me to do rebuilds for the last almost 20 years. That feeling will never get old. Wow. Now I want to know everything you know about hydraulic lifters, and what you have forgotten too.😎
Braking in a cam back in the 90's you know at the only time can brake them in at 1:00 am with open headers had about 10 more min to go when cops showed up longest 10 bs.ing and trying to explain but made. that 570 lift lunati made it the rest if the school year god i miss them days .
Broke the cam in on Amsoil break in oil, then switched to Amsoil 3000 in a 5w30. Next change was with Rotella T6 5w40. So far so good with a mild flat tappet and mild springs. Lots of low RPM use plowing snow and idling for hours on end as a powered wheelbarrow. Good oil for flat tappet “performance” cams is One of those pay-to-play type things, break in oil and good oil afterward is not the place to save money.
Excellent Danny, not a mechanic used to fix a lot of cars back in the day knew and heard of A lot of this but great to see it and have it explained so well I understand it much better so keep the videos coming I’m sure anyone that comes across these videos will come back for more. you guys stay safe🇺🇸👍
Morning y'all. Awesome video. A preload video would be great. You know it's hard to throw out suggestions when engine have so many variables. Setting a points style distributor would a good one too.
Would definitely love to see a video on how you set preload on your hydraulic lifters. I’ve normally rolled the pushrod with your fingers till you feel slight drag with no lash, then about 1/4 turn. Also can you explain “heat soak”? I think I have an idea but not sure what that means. Love your videos and love continuing learning from experts like y’all. Thanks for taking you time doing these videos and sharing your knowledge.
Back in the day NASCAR tried to reduce cost and slow the cars down by mandating flat tappet cams. Two races later the cars were running even faster... Seems the cam running gear was quite a bit lighter and they were all experimenting with large mushroom lifters. With mushroom lifters you could open the valves faster as the cam struck the outer portion of the lifter much sooner. After NASCAR found out about the huge mushroom lifters in the engines they limited the size to the biggest stock lifter diameter that the dodge boys were using. So all the cars had the same diameter lifter face. Fun Fact!
Would love to see a lifter preload video! I'm sorry if this is a stupid question but in the near future I'll be rebuilding a engine the main block is a buick 3800 series 2 (with Aussie top end ;) ) I'll be replacing everything all bearings, the crank, the cam, hydraulic roller lifters , pistons rings ect. Is there a correct way to run in the bearings and cam but at the same time not glaze the cylinders. Thanks Danny love your videos!
Damn good video Danny. Had a few ah yes that makes sense... with this video. The explanation of the lifter rotating and the importance of that was my favorite take away. Keep em coming and my suggestion for a upcoming video would be base tuning(timing and basic carb setting) an older engine. Something youd get when buying someone elses project.... Thanks for your time you take to make em and Have a good one
One question i have wondered is using a mopar 440 w aluminum heads. On break-in, with temps going to be higher than normal, what is considered to be the shut-the-engine down point??
I started inserting my own jokes after We’re trying to mate the cam to the lifters, there’s a lot of heat involved.🤣🤣🤣 To be honest, I don’t think I’ll be working on my own engine, but knowledge is knowledge. I’ll probably watch anything you post. Waiting to hear the flathead run and waiting for the HVC engine.
I’m learning a bunch from you Danny. The sound of that motor is intoxicating. I could enjoy that for hours. Hubby dragged home an ‘05 Durango with a blown 4.7L motor. Evidently the rocker arms just pop loose inside around 100K miles. Are you familiar with this one? So they showed spring loaded? lifters with little resistance and were retrofitting it since Chrysler didn’t engineer it to stay together long. Do these ever show up at your place? I like your videos because you explain things well and you’re funny.
Thank you, yes we do get those in the shop. I will be doing a lifter preload video. just remember no less then .020 preload and no more the .060 preload. this rule will work on any hyd. lifter.
Very interesting video..how does the factory break in a motor..old school solid lifters are so cool sounding when they are idling ..what ever your videos are about I'm interested..thanks
@@MrDanielSoliz so is it the same procedure 2000 RPMs for at least 20 minutes? I have a 5.7 L Hemi 2009 with 180000 Miles and surprisingly the Camden go out till just now!
Does not need the 20 min @2000 rpm’s on yours it’s a Hemi problem not a break in problem. There’s no oil to the roller and don’t get enough oil. Use the HellCat lifters.
@@MrDanielSoliz THANKS. ive been trying to chase down a sluggish acceleration issue on my silverado. it has 203000 miles., I am considering advancing my base timing a bit, as it seems to be late firing a bit. I was told that advancing the base timing will affect the parameters of the computer controlled timing as well. Im thinking my timing set may be a little worn, or the cam gear that drives the distributor or both. I recently replaced the entire distributor with a high quality unit. I noticed the distributor gear was quite worn, but didnt think to look at the cam gear. ( I recall reading that the cam gear is made of harder steel than the distributor drive gear and doesnt wear much).. I would love to hear your thoughts on this issue.,. Ive rebuilt throttel body, checked fuel pressure, checked compression, it is average 140 psi cold. \ scoped cylinders and valves and they are clean with no issues. fuel trims look good and o2 sensor is oscillating., smokes a bit due to worn valve stem seals. starts and idles great, just sluggish in mid range. like your riding a mini bike, waiting for the engine to wind out.
@@MrDanielSoliz thanks Daniel. can I ask you do you like to preload valves at 1/2 inch or 3/4? and also have you ever tried brazing the inside of a scored cylinder wall with a bronze rod... I have a 4.3 that looks to have seized a piston and has deep pitting in the number 1 hole of a 4.3 chevy engine.., the engine is already at .30 over, and I dont think theres enough left to bore the pitting out as I read that .60 over is max.. I dont know if the engine can be sleeved. if not the only other I can think of option is junk the block, or try to braze the bad cylinder.. heres my thinking,, the explosion takes place at the very top of the cylinder, and oil lubricates the wall constantly, so I would not think the cylinder walls get extremely hot, because it would cook the oil to the walls in no time at all. If the brazed repair gets good adhesion and is smooth it should hold. . can u think of a reason why brazing pitting in a cylinder would not work? thanks I think trying to do this would make a great show for your channel. just to see what happens.. if you want to use my block, I can bring it to u.. im in central tx.
@@MrDanielSoliz Daniel the reason I asked is I was wondering if the springs maybe weakened over alot of miles. or the top of the rocker arm wears some where the pushrod rides. everyone says put everything in its same location after disassembly because of wear specific reasons. , , is it safe to say that as long as there is no clacking they are fine and lifting the valve height to thier full potential? I have a tired old 94 gm 350 that im trying to get the most out of. thanks
Started at 16:32 and turned the idle up at 16:48 that’s 16 sec and I did hit the throttle at 16:46 more importantly is that if people watch this and follow what I’m saying and doing they will have a good chance of not flattening a cam. This one was a success and in doing well today.
I'm building my first LS fully forged 390ci. After my friend and I get it back into the car you're sasying to start it up and let it run at 2,000 rpm in my driveway for 20 minutes. Don't slightly rev it up to 2500, 3000 and back to 2,000? Just a steady 2,000 for 20 minutes? THEN after that, what do I do? I thought you seat the piston rings in the first couple miles with medium to hard accelerations. How can I do that if I'm at 2,000 steady rom in my driveway?
@@MrDanielSoliz .....so for my brand new LS engine, should I start it up for the first time, let it warm up at idle for 10 minutes.....then go drive it pretty hard with hard acclerations and then finally going WOT within 10-15 minutes of driving?
@@MrDanielSoliz ....does a new LS build need to have the cam degreed...? Or can the builder know for sure that its all set up correctly as he assembles it?
I definitely want to see more of this. I could listen to that motor run all day.
Ok just laughed out loud! The look Danny gives after saying Mating the two 😂😂😂 “you guys stop it” too much 🤣
I did, too!
Wow.....I under stand that feeling you have when you bring life to a motor, you have put your heart and soul into it. I feel very lucky that the shop I work in has allowed me to do rebuilds for the last almost 20 years. That feeling will never get old. Wow.
Now I want to know everything you know about hydraulic lifters, and what you have forgotten too.😎
Danny I can't believe you forgot to mention to tell your chickens to like share and subscribe. Faye might be steaming like that radiator hose haha.
Braking in a cam back in the 90's you know at the only time can brake them in at 1:00 am with open headers had about 10 more min to go when cops showed up longest 10 bs.ing and trying to explain but made. that 570 lift lunati made it the rest if the school year god i miss them days .
love the story, brings back some good times.
Keep on kicking butt with the videos, you guys cleaned & rebuilt my very dirty mazdaspeed miata motor few years back. Runs perfect!
Me and my dog love this channel. Great content, and you said "mating" several times!
Thanks Daniel, looking forward to part 2 👍
Broke the cam in on Amsoil break in oil, then switched to Amsoil 3000 in a 5w30. Next change was with Rotella T6 5w40. So far so good with a mild flat tappet and mild springs. Lots of low RPM use plowing snow and idling for hours on end as a powered wheelbarrow. Good oil for flat tappet “performance” cams is One of those pay-to-play type things, break in oil and good oil afterward is not the place to save money.
I didnt knew that the camshafts wasn't flat; what i'd liked the most was how well that AMC engine sounds, and yeah, i wanna know more.
Definitely want to see the lifter preload video!
Anything you share with us is going to be fun and informative:)
Yes defiantly preload and valve adjustment video !
Please do the pre-load video I’ve already learned a lot and just the first 1/3 of this video and I’m working on building an engine thank you
Excellent Danny, not a mechanic used to fix a lot of cars back in the day knew and heard of A lot of this but great to see it and have it explained so well I understand it much better so keep the videos coming I’m sure anyone that comes across these videos will come back for more. you guys stay safe🇺🇸👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Morning y'all. Awesome video. A preload video would be great. You know it's hard to throw out suggestions when engine have so many variables. Setting a points style distributor would a good one too.
Would definitely love to see a video on how you set preload on your hydraulic lifters. I’ve normally rolled the pushrod with your fingers till you feel slight drag with no lash, then about 1/4 turn. Also can you explain “heat soak”? I think I have an idea but not sure what that means. Love your videos and love continuing learning from experts like y’all. Thanks for taking you time doing these videos and sharing your knowledge.
I like to use low spring psi also on breakin .
Thank you for making great in depth videos and sharing your knowledge.
Back in the day NASCAR tried to reduce cost and slow the cars down by mandating flat tappet cams. Two races later the cars were running even faster... Seems the cam running gear was quite a bit lighter and they were all experimenting with large mushroom lifters. With mushroom lifters you could open the valves faster as the cam struck the outer portion of the lifter much sooner. After NASCAR found out about the huge mushroom lifters in the engines they limited the size to the biggest stock lifter diameter that the dodge boys were using. So all the cars had the same diameter lifter face. Fun Fact!
love it, Thanks
Would love to see a lifter preload video! I'm sorry if this is a stupid question but in the near future I'll be rebuilding a engine the main block is a buick 3800 series 2 (with Aussie top end ;) ) I'll be replacing everything all bearings, the crank, the cam, hydraulic roller lifters , pistons rings ect. Is there a correct way to run in the bearings and cam but at the same time not glaze the cylinders. Thanks Danny love your videos!
As always great vid brother, only 89 more to go brother!
come on baby ,I can almost feel it.
85 more, hopefully less then a month brother.
Damn good video Danny. Had a few ah yes that makes sense... with this video. The explanation of the lifter rotating and the importance of that was my favorite take away. Keep em coming and my suggestion for a upcoming video would be base tuning(timing and basic carb setting) an older engine. Something youd get when buying someone elses project....
Thanks for your time you take to make em and Have a good one
On big cam engines we would remove the inner spring to reduce pressure during break in.
Oh yes
One question i have wondered is using a mopar 440 w aluminum heads. On break-in, with temps going to be higher than normal, what is considered to be the shut-the-engine down point??
hmmm I didnt know the lifters spun. very interesting,.
you and your skill are awsome keep it going and your vids with faye are great 👍🏼
Thank you so much!
I started inserting my own jokes after
We’re trying to mate the cam to the lifters, there’s a lot of heat involved.🤣🤣🤣
To be honest, I don’t think I’ll be working on my own engine, but knowledge is knowledge. I’ll probably watch anything you post. Waiting to hear the flathead run and waiting for the HVC engine.
Thanks Wade....worked and filmed on the flathead today.
Cool! Will stay tuned, same Bat time, same Bat channel.
Excellent video as usual.
I appreciate that
I’m learning a bunch from you Danny. The sound of that motor is intoxicating. I could enjoy that for hours. Hubby dragged home an ‘05 Durango with a blown 4.7L motor. Evidently the rocker arms just pop loose inside around 100K miles. Are you familiar with this one? So they showed spring loaded? lifters with little resistance and were retrofitting it since Chrysler didn’t engineer it to stay together long. Do these ever show up at your place? I like your videos because you explain things well and you’re funny.
Thank you, yes we do get those in the shop.
I will be doing a lifter preload video.
just remember no less then .020 preload and no more the .060 preload. this rule will work on any hyd. lifter.
Great video. Good information.
Excellent detailed video Gracias 🙏
Nice presentation! I subscribe 👊🏽💥👊🏽
Thanks for the sub!
✝️🇺🇸👍 good morning everyone hope yall have a blessed day
Nice try for a 'Vapor' Engine break in... Steam adds a bit of drama before Autorama... Thanks for sharing... pull no stops in Part II..
working on part 2 tonight, up till 2am last night.
@@MrDanielSoliz Hmmm.. 2AM.... seems like no good deed goes unpunished... but not unappreciated. Thanks for your dedication.
Very interesting video..how does the factory break in a motor..old school solid lifters are so cool sounding when they are idling ..what ever your videos are about I'm interested..thanks
Good question! back in the day we had zinc in are oil.
i add zinc or 15w40 or 20w40 diesel oil
What do you typically charge for breaking in an engine on the run stand?
Break-in and tune $1750.00
awesome... your just awesome
Thank you so much 😀
Even with rollers do you have to break it in?
Yes even roller cams can benefit from a cam break-in, all do not as important as a flat tappet cam.
@@MrDanielSoliz so is it the same procedure 2000 RPMs for at least 20 minutes? I have a 5.7 L Hemi 2009 with 180000 Miles and surprisingly the Camden go out till just now!
Does not need the 20 min @2000 rpm’s on yours it’s a Hemi problem not a break in problem.
There’s no oil to the roller and don’t get enough oil. Use the HellCat lifters.
@@MrDanielSoliz thats what i did after reading many many comments and doin research. Comp cam with hellcat lifters and a MDS delete
@@Ronkrein that’s the best setup so far. 👍
hello Daniel, can u tell me if valve lash needs to be adjusted on high mileage chevy tbi engines sometimes., thank ye
Tbi chevys should have a hyd. cam and need no adjustment. they have preload. solid cams have lash. hope this helps.
@@MrDanielSoliz THANKS. ive been trying to chase down a sluggish acceleration issue on my silverado. it has 203000 miles., I am considering advancing my base timing a bit, as it seems to be late firing a bit. I was told that advancing the base timing will affect the parameters of the computer controlled timing as well. Im thinking my timing set may be a little worn, or the cam gear that drives the distributor or both. I recently replaced the entire distributor with a high quality unit. I noticed the distributor gear was quite worn, but didnt think to look at the cam gear. ( I recall reading that the cam gear is made of harder steel than the distributor drive gear and doesnt wear much)..
I would love to hear your thoughts on this issue.,. Ive rebuilt throttel body, checked fuel pressure, checked compression, it is average 140 psi cold. \
scoped cylinders and valves and they are clean with no issues.
fuel trims look good and o2 sensor is oscillating.,
smokes a bit due to worn valve stem seals.
starts and idles great, just sluggish in mid range. like your riding a mini bike, waiting for the engine to wind out.
@@MrDanielSoliz thanks Daniel. can I ask you do you like to preload valves at 1/2 inch or 3/4? and also have you ever tried brazing the inside of a scored cylinder wall with a bronze rod... I have a 4.3 that looks to have seized a piston and has deep pitting in the number 1 hole of a 4.3 chevy engine.., the engine is already at .30 over, and I dont think theres enough left to bore the pitting out as I read that .60 over is max.. I dont know if the engine can be sleeved. if not the only other I can think of option is junk the block, or try to braze the bad cylinder..
heres my thinking,, the explosion takes place at the very top of the cylinder, and oil lubricates the wall constantly, so I would not think the cylinder walls get extremely hot, because it would cook the oil to the walls in no time at all. If the brazed repair gets good adhesion and is smooth it should hold. .
can u think of a reason why brazing pitting in a cylinder would not work? thanks
I think trying to do this would make a great show for your channel. just to see what happens.. if you want to use my block, I can bring it to u.. im in central tx.
@@MrDanielSoliz Daniel the reason I asked is I was wondering if the springs maybe weakened over alot of miles. or the top of the rocker arm wears some where the pushrod rides. everyone says put everything in its same location after disassembly because of wear specific reasons. , ,
is it safe to say that as long as there is no clacking they are fine and lifting the valve height to thier full potential?
I have a tired old 94 gm 350 that im trying to get the most out of. thanks
This engine sat at low idle, for the first oh, half minute - I thought that was something you never want to do ??!?
Started at 16:32 and turned the idle up at 16:48 that’s 16 sec and I did hit the throttle at 16:46 more importantly is that if people watch this and follow what I’m saying and doing they will have a good chance of not flattening a cam. This one was a success and in doing well today.
I'm building my first LS fully forged 390ci. After my friend and I get it back into the car you're sasying to start it up and let it run at 2,000 rpm in my driveway for 20 minutes. Don't slightly rev it up to 2500, 3000 and back to 2,000? Just a steady 2,000 for 20 minutes?
THEN after that, what do I do?
I thought you seat the piston rings in the first couple miles with medium to hard accelerations. How can I do that if I'm at 2,000 steady rom in my driveway?
Cam break-in and ring break-in are not the same. LS engines have a roller cam. This is for a flat tappet camshafts. Hope this helps.
@@MrDanielSoliz .....so for my brand new LS engine, should I start it up for the first time, let it warm up at idle for 10 minutes.....then go drive it pretty hard with hard acclerations and then finally going WOT within 10-15 minutes of driving?
@@MrDanielSoliz ....does a new LS build need to have the cam degreed...? Or can the builder know for sure that its all set up correctly as he assembles it?
Nice presentation! I subscribe 👊🏽💥👊🏽
🙌