@@Tim2Wheels I have a drz400sm coming just because of the community this bike has. I feel extremely confident getting a dr now knowing not only the manual, many diys, but also really good quality videos exist for it./
This video gives me the confidence to take on my engine build. I've been turning wrenches professionally in the car world for 14 years and built several engines. Haven't ever built a complete motorcycle engine just top ends but I wish tim was still making videos very clever fellow
Great videos Tim. This is explaining a whole lot for me. I have been around motorcycles enough to know a lot of the part names, but never could quite visualize how they all fit together. This is really helping me connect some dots. Your camera angles and lighting are the best. Thanks.
Watch this whole video for fun, but was specifically hoping to see a description of how to check and adjust the shims for the cams and valves, but you glossed right over it. Also when I watched few adjusting the cam chain tensioner I didn't feel like I walked away with having a clear picture of exactly what you were using as your metrics to sense whether the chain was the correct tension
You may want to consider a fixture to hold your engine for torquing key fasteners such as cylinder bolts. The key rule in torquing is to make a smooth and continuous turn to final torque. Any interruption in rotation requires the fastener to be loosened and torqued again as you won’t get a correct torque reading if you halt within 20% or so of final torque and then turn the wrench again. The issue is static vs. dynamic friction. You want to stay in the dynamic fiction regime during torquing.
Hey LT, good point. You are correct on the proper way to torque. In fact, I'm looking to build a good DIY "universal" engine stand for motorcycle engines. I just haven''t settled on a design I like yet. If you have any suggestion, please let me know. Thanks!
I tighten the big nuts on top of helicoptors. I totally agree. I move the hellicopotor to the corner of my house and make the blade stop against the wall for exactly your reason above. This also serves as a kind of assurance to the owners that their flying machine is in good hands. Ps. I usually call them choppers to aid in my spelling thang))
Hi Tim, thank you for the video,s! Without a lot of experience i manage to rebuild my drz 400 e . Thanks to your video,s, it helped me a great deal! I hope it wil start because i just finished the engine. Thanks! Peter from the Netherlands
Ok, wow. I have just watched all 4 episodes of your build series in one sitting (on 2x speed mind you, but still, lol) and I don't even even need to rebuild my drz... yet. These videos are top notch. Super clear and detailed. This makes me want to find an old not running drz engine just to rebuild it haha. Anyway keep em coming. You earn't your self a sub... and I watched the entire ad for you too ;). Looking forward to Episode 5!
You are awesome thank you very much for the video! Helped me be very confident in the rebuild of my Drz. Had the same thing happen, rod bearing went out had to replace all bearings. Thank you!
I really like your videos Tim. It's the level of detail that I appreciate. It's actually your videos that gave me the confidence to start doing my own work on my KLR. Thanks mate. Keep it up!
getting that piston in with the rings was a giant pain for me. What I ended up doing is putting it into the cylinder jug before I clipped it into the rod, then I brought that whole assembly to my in frame bottom end and put the wrist pin in second. Found this way easier than trying to put the jug onto the piston.
Awesome video and series, luckily my ltz only needs valves shimmed but i thoroughly enjoyed learning everything about it. Excellent teacher, hats off to you sir!
Hi Tim. Thoroughly enjoy your videos. I’m taking the next step down the rabbit hole and these definitely give me the confidence to try and work on the bike at a more advanced level. Please keep it up and all the best. Greetings from South Africa
Tim, I love your channel, and I'm always stoked to see a new vid in my inbox. You do a great job with this! I'm bummed you sold the klr, but drz's are pretty awesome too 🤙😜! Thank you, and thanks to RM as well, for helping out with this project. 🖤
Great video Tim, I received a basket case 2013 drz 400 blown up. Got new hot rods crank and cylinder and cp stock bore piston. Put it all togethe runs great but it won't shift into 2nd with the shift lever while riding but when you take the shift shaft out and paw assembly and take a socket and rotate the shift cam with your hand it will click threw all the gears pretty as you please . All new parts as far as the shift shaft , Cam , paws , springs. Just dosen't make any sense you can shift it with your hand and not with the shifter pedal. It feels like it is just not wanting to turn the cam like it should . Dont know if you've ever ran across this situation in any other rebuilds or jobs . Again great videos , Thanks
Put some mid strength locktight on the bolts at the top and leave it at 10nm. ripping out the threads on the camshaft journal holders is quite common as my mechanics told me after I did it myself, using a torque wrench Set to 14nm
May I suggest that you remake the video and remind people like me to not forget the cylinder dowels and head dowels on re assembly. This will go a long way to prevent a really long bike push back into Galway city on the hard shoulder at night. Thanks. ))
Thank you for this excellent video, Tim. You made every step crystal clear and I now feel a bit more confident in tackling such a job myself. I can also appreciate the need for tidyness, meticulous planning and good record-keeping (eg using photography); I'm the man who is likely misplace an item or similar...or rather I was 😉. Safe roads 👍
On the "Installing the Oil Pump" section, you missed the circlip that holds the metal gear onto the pump, it's fitted when you move to the next section though when you install the clutch.
Hi Tim Just watched your videos on the engine installation, never heard you explain about the valve clearance after the cams were installed?. Do the buckets have shims or as they fixed to the bucket?
Tim, i thought i made a fatal mistake, i don't know how it happened as i can't remember removing the clip, my idler post fell into the casing. This was a complete tear down and i thought for sure id have to split the case again!. I lifted the motor and the post fell out through the crank/cylinder opening! I fed a piece of 12g copper wire through the post hole and out the cylinder hole. I sent the post back through on the copper wire without a hitch!
Great, informative,and well done. I just realized, I can do that. You made it easy in my mind. I do enjoy challenges but you made it real. Thanks One question; why didn’t you check valve lash before installing valve cover on reassembly? Butch
Great video 👍 , hi Tim I have a Suzuki ltz 400 2005 and water went in the motor , I change the water pump and water still going in to the motor 😢 I don’t know what to do Is it another way for the water filtrated to the motor ?
Yeah, I realized later that that got skipped in the video. I do it by wedging the handle of my "dead blow" hammer behind or in front of the crankshaft cam lobes. That handle is robber coated and does not harm the crankshaft, but provides a solid block to stop rotation. You can see this when I'm tightening the Balancer Shaft Nut (at 8:12). Just to be "Official", the service manual says to use a 26 mm offset wrench in the rotor to hold everything while torquing the balancer and primary drive nuts. I prefer my technique as I believe it puts less stress on twisting the Crankshaft. This is a good question (sharp eye) Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Hey! I appreciate this video, curious to know what part you removed at 13:13. I believe i have bent mine and needs to be replaced. Having trouble finding the part #. Thanks!
Great instructional videos on the DRZ 400, I hope to buy this bike someday. And these videos will become invaluable, did you not need to check valve clearances and shim appropriately prior to putting on the valve cover? Thanks again
Your chain is not at the same position on camshafts as shown on the picture (-1 or -1 pin between crankshaft and exhaust camshaft). Is it bad or the most important thing is having 15 pins between intake and exhaust ?
Hi Tim and to anyone else who might know, I pulled my cam cover off and found that when the cams are in the correct position the timing mark on the fly wheel looks like it is one tooth off. Is it as simple as taking of the chain and putting the flywheel back until the timing mark is at the top, then just put it all back together? Or is it more complicated than that? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Yep! I did replace the cam chain, valves, piston and rings later. It was a rush job and I did not record that part. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Hey Tim, great videos mate, I really enjoy them. One question though, why wouldn't you clean up the exterior of the engine, brake callipers etc; if you are going to all that trouble of rebuilding??
Hi Steve, they are the Motion Pro Spinner II T-Handle. I just bought them and really like them. There are links in the description of this video. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Good video. Decent, bit kids listen. I've built hundreds of motors, maybe thousands. I've had exactly six failures. Six. Every single failure could be diagnosed as 'dirt ingress' during build. Putting together a mc motor in this state of cleanliness is like russian roulette. Clean everything as well as you can. It makes no sense not to. Rant over. OCD boy signing out....
@@Tim2Wheels I really enjoyed your video series on the little DRZ and I wasn't trying to dig at you. So in good faith I'll give you some well weathered advice. A wash is better than no wash. A degrease is better still ... you know what happens next mate. VB's are great but a good old fashioned parts washer and air is minimum. Also, try heating your cases for bearing removal refitting. It's way less stressful to the alloy. Again mate. Good video series. Subbed.
This is literally the best video out there quality is good you explain it perfectly I feel way more confident now thank you so much
Thank you for the kind words. I'm very happy this has been helpful.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
@@Tim2Wheels I have a drz400sm coming just because of the community this bike has. I feel extremely confident getting a dr now knowing not only the manual, many diys, but also really good quality videos exist for it./
This video gives me the confidence to take on my engine build. I've been turning wrenches professionally in the car world for 14 years and built several engines. Haven't ever built a complete motorcycle engine just top ends but I wish tim was still making videos very clever fellow
Great videos Tim. This is explaining a whole lot for me. I have been around motorcycles enough to know a lot of the part names, but never could quite visualize how they all fit together. This is really helping me connect some dots. Your camera angles and lighting are the best. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment Dustan. I'm glad you like the video. Thanks for watching.
Just commenting because this series deserves it, best Drz rebuild / restoration content on TH-cam
I think you may have saved my drz from the junk yard. Thank you so much for your brilliant series!
Watch this whole video for fun, but was specifically hoping to see a description of how to check and adjust the shims for the cams and valves, but you glossed right over it. Also when I watched few adjusting the cam chain tensioner I didn't feel like I walked away with having a clear picture of exactly what you were using as your metrics to sense whether the chain was the correct tension
This series is utterly addictive!
You may want to consider a fixture to hold your engine for torquing key fasteners such as cylinder bolts. The key rule in torquing is to make a smooth and continuous turn to final torque. Any interruption in rotation requires the fastener to be loosened and torqued again as you won’t get a correct torque reading if you halt within 20% or so of final torque and then turn the wrench again. The issue is static vs. dynamic friction. You want to stay in the dynamic fiction regime during torquing.
Hey LT, good point. You are correct on the proper way to torque. In fact, I'm looking to build a good DIY "universal" engine stand for motorcycle engines. I just haven''t settled on a design I like yet.
If you have any suggestion, please let me know.
Thanks!
I tighten the big nuts on top of helicoptors. I totally agree. I move the hellicopotor to the corner of my house and make the blade stop against the wall for exactly your reason above. This also serves as a kind of assurance to the owners that their flying machine is in good hands. Ps. I usually call them choppers to aid in my spelling thang))
Learning to wrench on my own bikes and find this series SO informative. Well done. Thanks, Tim!
Thanks, I'm glad it is helpful.
Thanks for watching.
Hi Tim, thank you for the video,s! Without a lot of experience i manage to rebuild my drz 400 e . Thanks to your video,s, it helped me a great deal! I hope it wil start because i just finished the engine.
Thanks! Peter from the Netherlands
invaluable information Tim. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos.
I'm so glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Top class thanks Tim, all the best from Ireland
Ok, wow. I have just watched all 4 episodes of your build series in one sitting (on 2x speed mind you, but still, lol) and I don't even even need to rebuild my drz... yet. These videos are top notch. Super clear and detailed. This makes me want to find an old not running drz engine just to rebuild it haha.
Anyway keep em coming. You earn't your self a sub... and I watched the entire ad for you too ;). Looking forward to Episode 5!
Thanks for watching them all. I do appreciate the comment and the support.
You are awesome thank you very much for the video! Helped me be very confident in the rebuild of my Drz. Had the same thing happen, rod bearing went out had to replace all bearings. Thank you!
Awesome video, you are a great teacher. I will be doing this job soon on my own bike.
Hey, thanks for the comment Bazz. I'm glad this was helpful.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks so much for this content, quality is excellent and information is spot on. Subscribed!
I really like your videos Tim. It's the level of detail that I appreciate. It's actually your videos that gave me the confidence to start doing my own work on my KLR. Thanks mate. Keep it up!
Thanks for the feedback it is appreciated.
getting that piston in with the rings was a giant pain for me. What I ended up doing is putting it into the cylinder jug before I clipped it into the rod, then I brought that whole assembly to my in frame bottom end and put the wrist pin in second. Found this way easier than trying to put the jug onto the piston.
Tim you da man. Luv your vids. Excellent attention to detail and great explanation. Keep them coming.
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback.
Awesome video and series, luckily my ltz only needs valves shimmed but i thoroughly enjoyed learning everything about it.
Excellent teacher, hats off to you sir!
Awesome! Thanks for putting this out!
Thanks for watching Joe.
Hi Tim. Thoroughly enjoy your videos. I’m taking the next step down the rabbit hole and these definitely give me the confidence to try and work on the bike at a more advanced level. Please keep it up and all the best. Greetings from South Africa
Great video and thx for sharing!
Tim, I love your channel, and I'm always stoked to see a new vid in my inbox. You do a great job with this! I'm bummed you sold the klr, but drz's are pretty awesome too 🤙😜! Thank you, and thanks to RM as well, for helping out with this project. 🖤
Thanks Jon, I appreciate your comment. I working to get a variety of bike through my shop to do videos on.
Thanks for watching.
Great video!
Awesome Tim well done my friend 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Ian, I appreciate the comment.
Great video Tim, I received a basket case 2013 drz 400 blown up. Got new hot rods crank and cylinder and cp stock bore piston. Put it all togethe runs great but it won't shift into 2nd with the shift lever while riding but when you take the shift shaft out and paw assembly and take a socket and rotate the shift cam with your hand it will click threw all the gears pretty as you please . All new parts as far as the shift shaft , Cam , paws , springs. Just dosen't make any sense you can shift it with your hand and not with the shifter pedal. It feels like it is just not wanting to turn the cam like it should . Dont know if you've ever ran across this situation in any other rebuilds or jobs . Again great videos , Thanks
Put some mid strength locktight on the bolts at the top and leave it at 10nm. ripping out the threads on the camshaft journal holders is quite common as my mechanics told me after I did it myself, using a torque wrench Set to 14nm
May I suggest that you remake the video and remind people like me to not forget the cylinder dowels and head dowels on re assembly. This will go a long way to prevent a really long bike push back into Galway city on the hard shoulder at night. Thanks. ))
Thank you for this excellent video, Tim. You made every step crystal clear and I now feel a bit more confident in tackling such a job myself. I can also appreciate the need for tidyness, meticulous planning and good record-keeping (eg using photography); I'm the man who is likely misplace an item or similar...or rather I was 😉. Safe roads 👍
Thanks for the comment Keith!
On the "Installing the Oil Pump" section, you missed the circlip that holds the metal gear onto the pump, it's fitted when you move to the next section though when you install the clutch.
Hi Tim Just watched your videos on the engine installation, never heard you explain about the valve clearance after the cams were installed?. Do the buckets have shims or as they fixed to the bucket?
👍off we go to #5😀
Tim, i thought i made a fatal mistake, i don't know how it happened as i can't remember removing the clip, my idler post fell into the casing. This was a complete tear down and i thought for sure id have to split the case again!. I lifted the motor and the post fell out through the crank/cylinder opening! I fed a piece of 12g copper wire through the post hole and out the cylinder hole. I sent the post back through on the copper wire without a hitch!
Great, informative,and well done. I just realized, I can do that. You made it easy in my mind. I do enjoy challenges but you made it real. Thanks
One question; why didn’t you check valve lash before installing valve cover on reassembly?
Butch
Great video 👍 , hi Tim I have a Suzuki ltz 400 2005 and water went in the motor , I change the water pump and water still going in to the motor 😢 I don’t know what to do Is it another way for the water filtrated to the motor ?
How did you torque the primary drive nut and the generator rotor nut?
Yeah, I realized later that that got skipped in the video. I do it by wedging the handle of my "dead blow" hammer behind or in front of the crankshaft cam lobes. That handle is robber coated and does not harm the crankshaft, but provides a solid block to stop rotation. You can see this when I'm tightening the Balancer Shaft Nut (at 8:12).
Just to be "Official", the service manual says to use a 26 mm offset wrench in the rotor to hold everything while torquing the balancer and primary drive nuts. I prefer my technique as I believe it puts less stress on twisting the Crankshaft.
This is a good question (sharp eye) Thanks for the comment and for watching.
This looks great! I just came for the starter clutch, do I need a puller to get the flywheel off the taper?
NOTE: At 12:57 be sure to offset the last fiber clutch plate by one notch in clutch basket. This was not shown properly in the video.
Wooooo im glad i read this before i closed my case up!
@Tim2Wheels Maybe best to PIN this comment at the top of the feed so others will also see it as important information.
Hey! I appreciate this video, curious to know what part you removed at 13:13. I believe i have bent mine and needs to be replaced. Having trouble finding the part #. Thanks!
you can help? change valves, chain tensioner and distribution chain! and it sounds a lot, I have hotcams on cams
Great instructional videos on the DRZ 400, I hope to buy this bike someday. And these videos will become invaluable, did you not need to check valve clearances and shim appropriately prior to putting on the valve cover? Thanks again
Did you do anything to the head at all? Reuse the same valves and seals, etc?
how did u get the stator too go in so easyly ?????
Your chain is not at the same position on camshafts as shown on the picture (-1 or -1 pin between crankshaft and exhaust camshaft). Is it bad or the most important thing is having 15 pins between intake and exhaust ?
I noticed that too. Looks like the exhaust cam is one tooth off to the right.
Is it needed to Check valves in the end of rebuild?
Service manual calls for cranking the engine a few times and then checking one last time
Hi, I didn't see the ball in the rod clutch at 12:57 ? Where is that ? I have but I don't know where push it ?..
No measuring valve lash?.
Good video, tell me why in the middle part of the motor you use a sealant instead of a gasket ?
Hi Tim and to anyone else who might know, I pulled my cam cover off and found that when the cams are in the correct position the timing mark on the fly wheel looks like it is one tooth off. Is it as simple as taking of the chain and putting the flywheel back until the timing mark is at the top, then just put it all back together? Or is it more complicated than that? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
I loved the vid , but the bike needs a new cam chain asap
Yep! I did replace the cam chain, valves, piston and rings later. It was a rush job and I did not record that part.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
@@Tim2Wheels amazing then , very nice job :)
Hey Tim, great videos mate, I really enjoy them.
One question though, why wouldn't you clean up the exterior of the engine, brake callipers etc; if you are going to all that trouble of rebuilding??
Pense lo mismo... es como bañarse y ponerse el mismo calzón sucio.
Hi! What was that little thing you seemed to glue at minute 7:19?
Thank you.
woodruff key
Is that Mt. Pisgah OR or NC? I lived next to both of them haha
👍👍👍
HELP! When i connect the two crankcases together my transmission wont turn even when using a bit of force. I dont know what i did wrong.
What’s the T handle that you are using?
Hi Steve, they are the Motion Pro Spinner II T-Handle. I just bought them and really like them. There are links in the description of this video.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
RMATV👍
Yes indeed. They're a great company.
didn,t check valve lash the hardest part to do on a dr
Tim, are you in WNC?
Yes, near Asheville area.
Good video. Decent, bit kids listen. I've built hundreds of motors, maybe thousands. I've had exactly six failures. Six. Every single failure could be diagnosed as 'dirt ingress' during build.
Putting together a mc motor in this state of cleanliness is like russian roulette.
Clean everything as well as you can. It makes no sense not to.
Rant over. OCD boy signing out....
Thanks for the feedback Andy. I am currently building a vapor blaster to help with the cleaning. Thanks for watching.
@@Tim2Wheels I really enjoyed your video series on the little DRZ and I wasn't trying to dig at you. So in good faith I'll give you some well weathered advice. A wash is better than no wash. A degrease is better still ... you know what happens next mate.
VB's are great but a good old fashioned parts washer and air is minimum. Also, try heating your cases for bearing removal refitting. It's way less stressful to the alloy.
Again mate. Good video series. Subbed.
Man, do you know that you put the countershaft Spacer in wrong way/inverted way ?
flat side should be "outside", and side with boths half circle inside the engine to let the oil pass.
But what is an engine?
Wonf Indonesia wae ra gelem kristene kok inggris apnyol german gelem hahahahaha cah cilik