>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> *IMPORTANT INFORMATION - I have been informed that when a Fuse Tap is used - the fuse that was removed from the car should go in the socket nearest to the pins on the fuse tap and then the new fuse (the yellow one in this case) should be inserted in the socket on the fuse tap that is furthest from the pins. Apologies for any confusion caused.*
And because of how a fuse tap works it's also imported how it's inserted. The socket nearest to the pins is just a pass trough for the original fuse socket. The other fuse is the fuse for the device (Cellink here). The right way to insert it is in the orientation the device (Cellink) still has power when the fuse nearest to the pin (original fuse) is removed. If that's not the case, rotate it. If you leave it the other way around the second fuse (for the Cellink) is just in line with the first. Not a bad thing for the car but now the original fuse has to share the current between the device (Cellink) and the original device the fuse connects to (the lighter socket) so you reduce to load you can now use from your socket. Also, when the original fuse is less then the 7A the Cellink uses you will blow the original fuse. If you insert it the right way you can just leave the lower rating fuse for the original system (good idea) and have a heavier second fuse for the Cellink. So something to check/pay attention to :)
Nope, to location (of which you talk in the noticeabove) of the fuse is to determined which circuit gets which fuse rating. The bottom (nearest to the pins) is the pass trough for the original circuit so you should place the original fuse there. The other is for the new circuit (cellink here) The orientation determines if the fuse for the Cellink is in series with the original fuse (aka, the normal fuse has to share it's rating between the original socket and the Cellink) or parallel (just a nice and fresh circuit for the Cellink). If they are in sereis and the Cellink draws its 7A you only have 8A left for you're lighter socket in the dashboard (because the original fuse is 15A of which the Cellink already takes 7A). So location and orientation are both things to look for.
Basically he is saying, the way the work one orientation would feed one side of each fuse So you would have normal fusing to the original load and another fuse going to load that you have taped off. Attempt to explain visually. so bat+ ---->Main Fuse------->accesory load ----->Taped Fuse --->dashcam load But if you get it backwords the path of the power goes bat+ --->Mainfuse ------>taped fuse --> dashcam load. ------>accesesory load So because no one else mentioned it... the stupid simple way to check remove the fuse for the original load and see if the taped fuse has power if it doesn't flip the tap. Honestly it dosen't matter in your case, am am sure you dont care if both things die if the main fuse dies.
Indeed what I mean. And to add to the last bit, not only both things die when the main fuse blows, you know only have 8A for the lighter. So don't be surprised if the fuse blows when you connect a heavy load that needs the original 15A. Things like a compressor or a coolbox/mini fridge.
I installed a Eberspacher D4WSC car pre-heater for cold mornings in winter. It heats the water system in the car and turns on the climate control full blast for 30 minutes, resulting in a sauna warm interior. To power the system my auto technician changed the battery to the largest dimensions that would fit the space in the engine bay. The capacity went up from 85Ah to 120Ah. The new battery fitted with a custom clamp was £135. The spec on this unit @ 2.50 reads 6Ah. This is a nice little package and a simple DIY install, but it might be worth speaking to an auto electrician about the option of changing your car battery.
Great video as always. It still amazes me how many reviews I read on Amazon with people complaining about short battery run times on dashcams :) So many people just don't know how these things are supposed to work.
My friend used to run his all the time on the car battery and after a few months it killed his battery. Car batteries don't like to be discharged at all (it kills them quickly) so it's best to use an external pack like this one instead which doesn't mind what charge level it's at.
Instead of this device in standard accessory mode, you could also just use a USB powerbank and daisychain the dashcam in series. By that I mean plug the powerbank into the accessory port (using a 12V lighter socket to usb adapter) and plug the dashcam into the USB out of the powerbank. Most powerbank will both pass through power when they are receiving 5V from tha power in port and also change to the internal battery once the external power is shut off (my Xiaomi 10000 mAh powerbank does that). That would give you the same functionality for about 1/10 of the price (the Xiami 10Ah powerbank plus usb lead and 12V car adapter cost a combined total of something like 15$US)
Thanks for the video. I know that you said that you didn't have a proper crimp tool, but really crimping should be done properly for any voltage/current. If a joint isn't made correctly, it will suffer high resistance and excessive heating. In a small, enclosed space as would be found leading to most car fuseboxes, that excess heat could be disastrous. I agree with the other posts here, a decent solar-charged powerbank would do the job for less outlay.
Just as a data point, my previous car, an Audi A4 from 2005, always gave power. I once forgot my dash cam running for a week and the car still started fine. What I would like is some kind of timer that would keep the dash cam running for 3 hours from the car battery, and then turned it on. This would enable it to run most of the times when I park in a public setting, but not risk running down my car battery when the car is parked for several days.
I have the Lukas LK-350 hardwire kit installed. It has two settings, either it switches off when the car battery output reaches a specified voltage, or whan a certain time has passed. Both can be set by the user. Lukas has multiple hardwire kits, but i like the LK350 model because it has an small LCD that shows you the battery voltage. And because of the reasonable pricing.
To answer your question on 1:38... I use a dashcam directly wired to my fusebox and it can happen really easily. Some dashcams sold in my country (South Korea, we have quite a selection of high-end dashcams I don't know why) have auto shutdown feature so it won't run down the car battery. Those dashcams will monitor voltage of the input power and shut itself down when the car battery voltage goes below set limit. Anyways, I use a dashcam with auto shutdown feature and I usually find my dashcam off when I start my car in the morning. (I usually don't drive long distances. Usually only 10-20 min drive to and from my work. (I find that it stays for about 1 and a half day or longer after a longer trip.) So I would say that if you drive under 1 hour everyday, your dashcam can rundown your battter overnight quite easily.
What exactly do you think is inside a UPS to supply electricity when the main power source is cut? When the car battery power is cut, this device instantaneously starts to supply power to your device. This is the same function as a home UPS that instantaneously switches to the internal battery and then the transformer changes the voltage from 12V DC to 120V AC, for example. The difference with this UPS is that it is still 12V DC. This is a UPS.
You could also just get a simple usb power bank. Plug the power bank charge input to a cigarette lighter usb charger and the output of the power bank to the Dashcam. Will save you a lot of money an probably works just as well.
The issue with power banks is the battery capacity. You start running two cameras like the F750 Setup, and you will drain a USB power bank very quickly.
MrTehnoGuy Good luck finding a USB charger, power bank, and a lead that withstand 84 watts being dumped through them to quick charge a battery just as this one. Also this one is designed to be permanently installed in a car, with all the (hopefully) necessary tests made: different weather situations, heat and moisture, bumps and vibration, electrical compliance and everything else it might go through its life in a car. That's something a random off-the-shelf USB power bank cannot do.
I really wanna compliment you on your videos. You do an outstanding job with explanations and presentation, your pacing and detail is great, the video content and editing is excellent, and you cover all the relevant information. Two thumbs up sir! 👍👍
A handy bit of kit if you live in Birmingham if you're worried about your car getting bumped every day, I think I'd prefer the cheaper option if I needed a parked camera and use a power bank instead.
Great review and very well explained but the price!! wow, well over priced for what it is. You could use a device used by camping/caravan uses that chargers a 2nd battery in the car (using a sealed battery) that charges it as you drive and then takes over the dash can power when the power is turned off. Ok it means a bit of DIY wiring but not that much more then the unit reviewed and the cost is about £20-£30 plus the price of the battery of whatever size needed, again about £20-£30.
I think the selling point is supposed to be that this is a lithium battery that charges sufficiently in 15 minutes to provide hours of dashcam power. A 30 minute commute should probably give enough charge for the camera to record all the time it's parked up during the day and overnight. I don't know how much charge a standard 12V lead acid car battery would receive in the same time....and whether many people would want another car battery in the boot. But it's all about options, choices and horses for courses. People who are interested in this, now know how it works and can make an informed decision based upon their own use requirements. It's a product that will only appeal to perhaps one in a thousand people who watch this video. I'm anticipating that most of the comments will come from the other 999 people who have alternate plans, ideas, solutions and priorities.
nice reviews techmoan, keep them coming....10 months have passed since a lot of these comments....any new power solutions? i have just bought a ddpai m4 and want to use the parking feature....not keen on spending big money on alternate power....whats out there now?
bought one of those Vantrue n1 dashcams. Great but, honestly impressed with the build quality and video. Thank you for reviewing that, it save me a lot of time searching for a small dashcam with good quality video.
My neighbor could have used this gadget about the time this video was posted. On a Saturday evening, around half-past 10., I heard a loud "boom!" and ran outside to see a white car backing away from my neighbor's truck, having presumably been smashed at the wheel and having smashed into the rear of said truck. I ran in that direction, but due to distance and darkness, and the perpetrator taking off at a high rate of speed, was unable to read the registration plate on the car. A continuously-running camera, powered by an auxiliary battery, might have collected the evidence needed to locate the hit-and-run car.
That could be fun to use as a pre-built battery backup for a Raspberry Pi-based DIY in-car entertainment setup with a built-in dash cam. If you just power a Pi Zero itelf and the official camera (which consume about 240mA @5V combined while recording if the figures I found are correct) with this, then this thing could even last you for about two days and sixteen hours - not accounting for any other attached peripherals like a screen (which I'd power from the radio's power supply anyway) or any loss from converting the power down to 5V that is.
the powering off issue in most dash cams is the reason I use a cheap action cam on a suction cup. my drift HD 170 stealth is powered by battery and I often leave it recording whilst parked, it's funny some of the stuff you capture in supermarket car parks etc.
If you don't have a crimper, the best way is to use the cutting part of the pliers, best to use old blunt ones, takes a little practice so you don't squeeze too hard, but will allow you to get the pressure onto the wire, also when using small wire in a crimp that large, strip a bit more of the wire and double it over
I think instead of being worried about draining the car battery (which would take a long time) the thing people should be worried about is premature wear on the car battery. These car batteries aren't meant to be drained, they are meant to start the car and that's about it. That's why even just a few full drains of a car battery can ruin it.
Its worth mentioning that on some cars you have a choice if you want continuous power or ignition only power to your cigarette lighter. In the case of my shitty old 206 (don't buy Peugeots, just don't, please) the fuse could be taken out and replaced in a different position thus switching between the two options.
£170 is more than some dash cams, my power magic works fine and does exactly the same thing for £40, it's a very niche solution to a problem that doesn't really exist, if you don't want to hard wire a cam yourself you can get it done for £20-30. . . Fuse taps fall into the same category as scotch locks - avoid at all costs as they cause issues eventually
Thanks for this video. Just recieved my cellink B to monitor my Benz CLS using a duo cam. Now will have more peace of mind. My aim is to get another cam to have 360 degrees viewing.
You can't get a proper crimp with a pair of pliers. That wire will fall out or work itself loose eventually. Only use a proper crimp tool to do crimping if you don't want to start a fire in your car.
Could be usefull. My car has a system that manages the battery power in an accident. I imagine most modern cars have similar, especially if the battery is in the trunk. So the live cable runs the length of the car and could be dangerous in an accident. So in a collision: - Air bags fire in about 15ms(milliseconds) once the deceleration sensors activate. - after 100ms a relay activates and cuts battery power at the battery. Its a large black box. Thus the engine stops and the fuel system stops. As a side note the fuel system depressurizes back to the fuel tank. - A fused circuit does persist to the horn, hazards, park lights, and central locking. But if it shorts the fuse blows. Hence I could see a persistant power source for a camera being useful. Assuming the camera remain in tact.
When you park up unplug the camera USB power lead from the USB plug adaptor in your 12v power plug ( the one that used to be for ciggy lighters ) and just plug the camera lead into a USB Battery pack ie the sort used to recharge mobile phones/tablets. If you get a decent size one it should run the camera for a good few hours !. You can recharge the battery pack by just plugging that into a spare USB power socket . I got a 12,000MAH one for £20 from amazon. It mightn't last as long but it's better than £100plus.
Great review as always! I have a VicoVation Marcus 4 dash cam and the VicoVation Power+ and the 'Parking mode works great. (Has voltage drop cut-off/Temp cut-off and timer) Had it professionally install and gave them to a fuse tap to use. + This product looks good but very bulky if, you wanted to hide it up, thanks for the review worth a look for the future.
This is good if your dashcam doesn't already have an internal battery, or if you want extended battery life. A good dashcam should have a backup battery. If you're in a bad car accident, your car may lose the 12V supply and a backup battery will ensure the video file is safely saved to the SD card.
they already nearly all have a small battery in them for just this reason. It doesn't last long, but that is because it is only there to save the video, which it does very rapidly
Great review and very well explained but the price!! wow, well over priced for what it is. You could use a device used by camping/caravan uses that chargers a 2nd battery in the car (using a sealed battery) that charges it as you drive and then takes over the dash can power when the power is turned off. Ok it means a bit of DIY wiring but not that much more then the unit reviewed and the cost is about 20-30 pounds.
Thanks - a couple of people have pointed this out (I was working blind as the instructions missed this part out completely). I've now added an annotation on the video...and I'll put something in the comments and the description text box.
Hi, nice toy. When I get better I will look further this product. I must admit that the name "cell" made me think that there was some sort of cellphone link to alert me if the car was jostled or hit by another car. Maybe something will come down the pike soon.
Most modern cars have security systems and keyless entry equipment that draws current while the car is parked, and they can sit for a pretty long time and still start.
For those of us with electric cars, the 12v accessory battery is recharged by the drive battery automatically once a day, even if the car isn't being driven. Therefore a permanent live feed is absolutely viable even if the car is left parked up for weeks or months. I can see how this product would be useful for liquid dinosaur fuelled cars. Yes I saved £162 by buying a £42,000 electric car, bargain. Thank goodness for the instructional video on how to post a TH-cam comment,, how many of the rules did I mange to follow?
1:25 only takes about 7 billion years. no, in reality it would take weeks to discharge a fully charged battery but yeah, it might be a problem for people who don't drive very often so they already have a low battery.
I have the cellink battery and blacksys 2 ch. dash cam. On the the input of the cellink , I hardwired the the black ground wire to a metal bolt and the red wire to an add a fuse to a acc fuse. on the output of cellink, I connected the red wire to red wire and yellow wire to yellow wire and black ground to black ground and plugged into the dash cam. now I have power to the dash cam, but when the engine is off it doesn't go to parking mode and while I'm driving, it keeps switching from driving mode recording to parking mode recording and vice versa. Any ideas what going on? do I connect all the wires right?
I don't recommend the Power Magic Pro if your car battery is old. I've used the PMP and it drained my car battery to the point my battery wasn't holding much charge at all and was unreliable even after I stopped using PMP. My car battery was several years old, so I'm sure that was the biggest factor. I bought a new car battery but haven't tried the PMP setup with it yet and I'm not entirely sure if I will. I like the idea of a separate battery for my dash cam, but living only one mile from my work only allows for a 5 minute charge time and so I will never be able to build a suitable charge for my desired run time while parked. Another concern I have with this battery backup is it's performance in sub-zero temperatures since I live in Michigan.
Interesting to hear about you experiences with the power magic pro, I've never tried one myself. Perhaps one day someone will make a solar powered dashcam battery
Good to know a specific product is available, as having a battery out of direct sunlight for me is something I would prefer (Still just taking my 0803 out of the mount because of what happened to my previous dash cam which I left in direct sunlight, however when it does begin to fail I know there more choice)
So base on this video a socket cigarette lighter is better. It's only draining the battery pack not the car battery itself. Sounds great I had my doubts about the product. When I first hear about it. And how it worked. I was confused. I needed a product that will not drain my car's battery.
Couple of questions 1) say for instance the cellink battery dies, would the dashcam continue to get its power from the main battery? I don't want my dashcam to lose power whilst in parking mode. 2) ...how do you set up the cellink battery so after it dies it hands it back to the main battery? Is it done by a method of wiring or are there some settings that can be changed on the cellink?
Techmoan, just to inform you, with the add a fuses you have to put the original fuse (blue) in the bottom slot ( nearest to the pins) and the new circuit fuse (yellow) in the top slot, this is becuase they both share a common positive but the bottom fuse links to the bottom pin and the top fuse links to the wire coming out of it, the way you have put them in means your power socket is now fed from a 20a fuse instead of a 15a fuse and if your wiring isnt big eneough to power 20a it could cause problems, but good video and i think i might get one myself :P
Thanks - a couple of people have pointed this out (I was working blind as the instructions missed this part out completely). I've now added an annotation on the video...and I'll put something in the comments and the description text box.
no probs, just wanted to let you know. on this occasion its alright but if for example you used an add a fuse for a second power socket (20a) but took the feed from your interior lighting fuse (5a) and got them the wrong way round it would be bad :)
After watching your video's, I bought the Thinkware770 dual dash cam and also the Cellink B. Sent away for the hardwire kit. All this to use in a BMW i3. Found two suitable fuses and wired it all up. Works fine on normal driving, but in Park/ Motion detect mode, even though there is power to the jack plug on the camera, it does not capture video. I've been through the app on the phone and tried to locate any clues, to be able to switch on Parking mode. But in the month that its been fitted not a single file saved. I have even saved all the files on the micro Sd card, to a new card(fast) and downloaded the latest software for the 770, put this in the camera and got the quote of Software updating. Now I'm still wondering in this day of online buying, what are my options, it was purchased from the RAC site. Just one thing, I don't think the quality of the video is as good as the 0803.
oaft. the price is a tad steep, wonder what the mah rating of the battery is... also they missed a trick, if they had an optional usb socket output (switchable between the big 12v plug to stop people plugging loads in) then there would be one less voltage conversion and also less room to take up, as you would run a long usb to usb to the dash cam instead of 12v plug->dash cam plug to 5v long cable... make hiding it easier too! i do like the fuse box hard wire kit though, I would do that...
+Michael Edmond yeah it's in there, that's a lot of cash for not that expensive a battery really.... I have a battery back up that holds more and cost less than 1/4, and was not even a Chinese make!
Hi Techmoan, Thanks for sharing this video, I'm learning some great tips, I've got a dashcam, it hasn't got a parking mode, will the battery pack work without the parking mode?
Your videos are great have u seen casse-o-player app on andriod its an mp3 player which looks like a cassette player as the song gones on the tape moves and when the song changes it changes tapes. it as has uv meters it might be worth a short review or just to use its cool
but what for? how long should be a camera on to drain battery? my Old ford has 2 fuse settings for power socket. I can leave my car, turn it off and the power will be delivered to the camera via standard 12v socket. I havent noticed problems with starting up a diesel Even After whole night when dashcam was recording. The second fuse position disables power in the socket After key is removed.
That´s a pretty cool idea but it looks like a bodged together product, hobby xt-60 connector, cheap chinese 12v lighter socket (both input and output). if yoou open it up its probably 4 or 8 18650 lifepo4 batteries with a chinese bms attached to protect and balance charge then
Always wonders me how different the legal situations form country to country can be, in Germany you would probably have to pay a huge fine for filming people on the sidewalk, and even just running a dashcam while you are driving is highly controversial.
Great and informative video as usual. Thanks Techmoan. Do you think it's worth going this way or simply installing a second battery kit in the car and to hookup the dashcam to it?
I use a mobile phone external battery charger that offers pass through charging. It's plugged into a twin socket USB car adapter and the other end is into the camera..It works just the same except I still have a free USB port to charge my phone and if I am leaving the car parked up safely and need a power pack I can just unplug it and take it with me...this seems like a bit of an expensive method.
What's the chance of actually catching an incident on camera when it's usually set up to write over files after a set amount of time. Chances are you'll miss the incident if left overnight etc. Unless of course it's motion activated.
Be aware insurance companies get very grumpy if they find out you have added an accessory to your vehicle these days. If you had a vehicle fire with this device hard wired or even left overnight they use it as an excuse to invalid any claim.
I was thinking of doing this for my MiVue Dash Cam that has a dead internal battery. I plan on using a power rod or bank, just so it saves the video file. This might be easier!
It's just for dashcams, really anything from the acc port that doesn't draw a ton of power. I'd thinking of getting one to run a Raspberry Pi or similar computer.
I bought the cellink neo which is far better , for a Blackvue twin camera it records for 13 hours i am also going to get the extended battery pack which will allow up to 20 hours or so , keep in mind you also need a bigger memory card the 128 GB has a capacity to record about 17 hours for highest resolution recording for a twin camera set up , the systems are expensive i am up to over a grand so far with front and rear Blackvue, battery packs and memory cards , 128GB memory card to use is the Samsung pro endurance it cost me $76 Aussie on eBay there is a Blackvue one however that’s like $200 so stuff that
Hey, i really adore your videos and i'd need some advice on a small thing, if you have the time of course. I have an old VHS camera from 1988. it's perfect, never used ecc... but the battery has died. I have searched everywhere for a replacement battery but i can't find one. Do you have any tips for me on where to search for such batteries or some guide on how to build a custom solution? Big thanks.
I'm surprised you can't find it...I've found new compatible batteries for many old camcorders and other vintage tech on eBay...the problem I'm having is finding the chargers.
Techmoan well, i have the original AC adapter/charger. the camera is a HITACHI VHS MOVIE. unfortunately i can't find a manual and it doesn't show a precise name on the camera itself. I really want to use this camera, because it's literally like new.
You might go look up battery rebuilding. Its not too big of a deal, if you get replacements with solder tabs. Just match the battery type and, size to the original battery. The ma hours can be higher though. Example. www.zbattery.com/NiCad-AA-1000mAh-Rechargeable-Battery-with-Solder-Tabs?gclid=Cj0KEQjw4J-6BRD3h_KIoqijwvkBEiQAfcPiBR0xHniMN_dle8-iiX4z31ehLFzwh5tiDJCTOw0zs7kaAhLz8P8HAQ
It's likely to be Nicad or even lead acid. Go to a battery rebuilder. They're around, you just need to find them. They will be able to put new cells in the old pack and make it good again.
I have yet another thought, although perhaps less tidy than finding a "new old stock" battery or having yours rebuilt. I had the same issue with my 80's BetaMovie cam I had. Worked great but the batteries went flat, would not charge and I could not find replacements. In the years since, battery technology has advanced tremendously. What I did was find a suitable Li-Po battery of similar voltage to original pack and plug it in directly to the power input jack on the camera. I then Velcro'd it to the back of the camera. This wasn't a big deal for me as I fly RC aircraft and have many Li-Po batteries and chargers for them. This brought the camera into present day battery tech and the batteries last longer and have much lower self-discharge than old Ni-Cd batteries. Just a thought.
Hi. like your vids. I'm not normally a fan of serious comments but you have shown the fuses in the wrong position on the tap. Might be an idea to highlight it in case someone installed using your video instead of the poor manual. keep up the good work.
It's OK, thanks but I'm on it - You can see mentioned it in the top comment, the description box and on an onscreen overlay on the video....and the manual doesn't make any mention of the fuse tap at all. That's why I resorted to guessing.
Cool, just thought it worth a mention in case someone followed your example, good to know you knew. now I can go back to my normal sarcastic style of commenting by hitting the keyboard with my penis (only ever short comments)
The only problem I can see with this is that even with a 32gb sd card you will only get a few hours recording before the footage is overwritten. Probably fine for a shopping trip but not much help overnight etc
Thank you for all your videos, I've been bingin' on them in the last few weeks. I'm not so much into cameras/videocameras/dashcams but i think videos on old tech are really interesting. Most important, your accent is totally fine to me and I can understand about 95% of what you say (I'm italian).A small suggestion: a video about minidisc. For unknown reasons I've been growing very fond of this format in the past few months and I've put together a small collection of portable players (mostly from Sony), so I'd like to know what you think about this dead format.Greetings from Italy!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
*IMPORTANT INFORMATION - I have been informed that when a Fuse Tap is used - the fuse that was removed from the car should go in the socket nearest to the pins on the fuse tap and then the new fuse (the yellow one in this case) should be inserted in the socket on the fuse tap that is furthest from the pins. Apologies for any confusion caused.*
And because of how a fuse tap works it's also imported how it's inserted. The socket nearest to the pins is just a pass trough for the original fuse socket. The other fuse is the fuse for the device (Cellink here). The right way to insert it is in the orientation the device (Cellink) still has power when the fuse nearest to the pin (original fuse) is removed. If that's not the case, rotate it. If you leave it the other way around the second fuse (for the Cellink) is just in line with the first. Not a bad thing for the car but now the original fuse has to share the current between the device (Cellink) and the original device the fuse connects to (the lighter socket) so you reduce to load you can now use from your socket. Also, when the original fuse is less then the 7A the Cellink uses you will blow the original fuse. If you insert it the right way you can just leave the lower rating fuse for the original system (good idea) and have a heavier second fuse for the Cellink.
So something to check/pay attention to :)
Isn't that the exact same thing I posted - or have I misunderstood.
Nope, to location (of which you talk in the noticeabove) of the fuse is to determined which circuit gets which fuse rating. The bottom (nearest to the pins) is the pass trough for the original circuit so you should place the original fuse there. The other is for the new circuit (cellink here)
The orientation determines if the fuse for the Cellink is in series with the original fuse (aka, the normal fuse has to share it's rating between the original socket and the Cellink) or parallel (just a nice and fresh circuit for the Cellink). If they are in sereis and the Cellink draws its 7A you only have 8A left for you're lighter socket in the dashboard (because the original fuse is 15A of which the Cellink already takes 7A).
So location and orientation are both things to look for.
Basically he is saying, the way the work one orientation would feed one side of each fuse So you would have normal fusing to the original load and another fuse going to load that you have taped off.
Attempt to explain visually.
so bat+ ---->Main Fuse------->accesory load
----->Taped Fuse --->dashcam load
But if you get it backwords
the path of the power goes
bat+ --->Mainfuse ------>taped fuse --> dashcam load.
------>accesesory load
So because no one else mentioned it... the stupid simple way to check remove the fuse for the original load and see if the taped fuse has power if it doesn't flip the tap.
Honestly it dosen't matter in your case, am am sure you dont care if both things die if the main fuse dies.
Indeed what I mean.
And to add to the last bit, not only both things die when the main fuse blows, you know only have 8A for the lighter. So don't be surprised if the fuse blows when you connect a heavy load that needs the original 15A. Things like a compressor or a coolbox/mini fridge.
I installed a Eberspacher D4WSC car pre-heater for cold mornings in winter. It heats the water system in the car and turns on the climate control full blast for 30 minutes, resulting in a sauna warm interior. To power the system my auto technician changed the battery to the largest dimensions that would fit the space in the engine bay. The capacity went up from 85Ah to 120Ah. The new battery fitted with a custom clamp was £135. The spec on this unit @ 2.50 reads 6Ah. This is a nice little package and a simple DIY install, but it might be worth speaking to an auto electrician about the option of changing your car battery.
I don't understand people who vote thumbs down on your videos. Your reviews are great.
There are quite a few people who subscribe and dislike every video I make - it's a funny old world.
I like how your preemptively answer and cover the "wouldacouldashoulda" questions that might arise.
Great video as always. It still amazes me how many reviews I read on Amazon with people complaining about short battery run times on dashcams :) So many people just don't know how these things are supposed to work.
My friend used to run his all the time on the car battery and after a few months it killed his battery. Car batteries don't like to be discharged at all (it kills them quickly) so it's best to use an external pack like this one instead which doesn't mind what charge level it's at.
Instead of this device in standard accessory mode, you could also just use a USB powerbank and daisychain the dashcam in series.
By that I mean plug the powerbank into the accessory port (using a 12V lighter socket to usb adapter) and plug the dashcam into the USB out of the powerbank.
Most powerbank will both pass through power when they are receiving 5V from tha power in port and also change to the internal battery once the external power is shut off (my Xiaomi 10000 mAh powerbank does that).
That would give you the same functionality for about 1/10 of the price (the Xiami 10Ah powerbank plus usb lead and 12V car adapter cost a combined total of something like 15$US)
Won't charge fast enough on short journeys, with long parking periods. Fail.
Shouldn't be a problem if an accessory adapter is used that supplies enough A for fast-charging.
buy two, dummy. Use one while the other is charging.
Mac G. Think you need to watch this www.blackvue.com/why-is-a-dedicated-battery-the-best-for-your-dashcam/
Thanks for the video.
I know that you said that you didn't have a proper crimp tool, but really crimping should be done properly for any voltage/current. If a joint isn't made correctly, it will suffer high resistance and excessive heating. In a small, enclosed space as would be found leading to most car fuseboxes, that excess heat could be disastrous.
I agree with the other posts here, a decent solar-charged powerbank would do the job for less outlay.
Just as a data point, my previous car, an Audi A4 from 2005, always gave power. I once forgot my dash cam running for a week and the car still started fine. What I would like is some kind of timer that would keep the dash cam running for 3 hours from the car battery, and then turned it on. This would enable it to run most of the times when I park in a public setting, but not risk running down my car battery when the car is parked for several days.
I have the Lukas LK-350 hardwire kit installed. It has two settings, either it switches off when the car battery output reaches a specified voltage, or whan a certain time has passed. Both can be set by the user. Lukas has multiple hardwire kits, but i like the LK350 model because it has an small LCD that shows you the battery voltage. And because of the reasonable pricing.
To answer your question on 1:38... I use a dashcam directly wired to my fusebox and it can happen really easily.
Some dashcams sold in my country (South Korea, we have quite a selection of high-end dashcams I don't know why) have auto shutdown feature so it won't run down the car battery. Those dashcams will monitor voltage of the input power and shut itself down when the car battery voltage goes below set limit.
Anyways, I use a dashcam with auto shutdown feature and I usually find my dashcam off when I start my car in the morning. (I usually don't drive long distances. Usually only 10-20 min drive to and from my work. (I find that it stays for about 1 and a half day or longer after a longer trip.)
So I would say that if you drive under 1 hour everyday, your dashcam can rundown your battter overnight quite easily.
so basically, this is like a UPS for dashcams?
Yes
It's a battery. Most cars will supply power to accessories for a few seconds after the key has been removed from the car ignition. It's not a UPS.
UPS=Uninterruptable Power Supply.. so yes, it is a UPS, in the literal sense
*****
its a battery. when have you heard your car battery called a ups?
What exactly do you think is inside a UPS to supply electricity when the main power source is cut? When the car battery power is cut, this device instantaneously starts to supply power to your device. This is the same function as a home UPS that instantaneously switches to the internal battery and then the transformer changes the voltage from 12V DC to 120V AC, for example. The difference with this UPS is that it is still 12V DC. This is a UPS.
Very well described for something that might appear daunting to most people at first. Keep up the good work!
hooray the old music is back
You could also just get a simple usb power bank. Plug the power bank charge input to a cigarette lighter usb charger and the output of the power bank to the Dashcam. Will save you a lot of money an probably works just as well.
That won't give you the phenomenal 15 min. charging time
If you get a power bank and a car charger that are Qualcomm QC compatible, then it will be just as fast.
The issue with power banks is the battery capacity. You start running two cameras like the F750 Setup, and you will drain a USB power bank very quickly.
10p6 This power bank is ~21K mah. You can find even higher capacity ones. You could even daisy chain a couple .
MrTehnoGuy Good luck finding a USB charger, power bank, and a lead that withstand 84 watts being dumped through them to quick charge a battery just as this one. Also this one is designed to be permanently installed in a car, with all the (hopefully) necessary tests made: different weather situations, heat and moisture, bumps and vibration, electrical compliance and everything else it might go through its life in a car. That's something a random off-the-shelf USB power bank cannot do.
I really wanna compliment you on your videos. You do an outstanding job with explanations and presentation, your pacing and detail is great, the video content and editing is excellent, and you cover all the relevant information. Two thumbs up sir! 👍👍
Yours are also quite good. I watch both of your channels for all my dashcam info.
A handy bit of kit if you live in Birmingham if you're worried about your car getting bumped every day, I think I'd prefer the cheaper option if I needed a parked camera and use a power bank instead.
Great review and very well explained but the price!! wow, well over priced for what it is.
You could use a device used by camping/caravan uses that chargers a 2nd battery in the car (using a sealed battery) that charges it as you drive and then takes over the dash can power when the power is turned off. Ok it means a bit of DIY wiring but not that much more then the unit reviewed and the cost is about £20-£30 plus the price of the battery of whatever size needed, again about £20-£30.
I think the selling point is supposed to be that this is a lithium battery that charges sufficiently in 15 minutes to provide hours of dashcam power. A 30 minute commute should probably give enough charge for the camera to record all the time it's parked up during the day and overnight. I don't know how much charge a standard 12V lead acid car battery would receive in the same time....and whether many people would want another car battery in the boot. But it's all about options, choices and horses for courses. People who are interested in this, now know how it works and can make an informed decision based upon their own use requirements. It's a product that will only appeal to perhaps one in a thousand people who watch this video. I'm anticipating that most of the comments will come from the other 999 people who have alternate plans, ideas, solutions and priorities.
nice reviews techmoan, keep them coming....10 months have passed since a lot of these comments....any new power solutions? i have just bought a ddpai m4 and want to use the parking feature....not keen on spending big money on alternate power....whats out there now?
bought one of those Vantrue n1 dashcams. Great but, honestly impressed with the build quality and video. Thank you for reviewing that, it save me a lot of time searching for a small dashcam with good quality video.
My neighbor could have used this gadget about the time this video was posted. On a Saturday evening, around half-past 10., I heard a loud "boom!" and ran outside to see a white car backing away from my neighbor's truck, having presumably been smashed at the wheel and having smashed into the rear of said truck. I ran in that direction, but due to distance and darkness, and the perpetrator taking off at a high rate of speed, was unable to read the registration plate on the car. A continuously-running camera, powered by an auxiliary battery, might have collected the evidence needed to locate the hit-and-run car.
That could be fun to use as a pre-built battery backup for a Raspberry Pi-based DIY in-car entertainment setup with a built-in dash cam.
If you just power a Pi Zero itelf and the official camera (which consume about 240mA @5V combined while recording if the figures I found are correct) with this, then this thing could even last you for about two days and sixteen hours - not accounting for any other attached peripherals like a screen (which I'd power from the radio's power supply anyway) or any loss from converting the power down to 5V that is.
the powering off issue in most dash cams is the reason I use a cheap action cam on a suction cup. my drift HD 170 stealth is powered by battery and I often leave it recording whilst parked, it's funny some of the stuff you capture in supermarket car parks etc.
If you don't have a crimper, the best way is to use the cutting part of the pliers, best to use old blunt ones, takes a little practice so you don't squeeze too hard, but will allow you to get the pressure onto the wire, also when using small wire in a crimp that large, strip a bit more of the wire and double it over
Yep thats what I ended up doing in the end - you can see the marks in the crimped lead.
Ah, it looked like you had used the serrated part ;)
This is the cause of the majority of vehicle fires. A cheap £2 crimp tool from eBay is a decent insurance policy for a one off job.
I think instead of being worried about draining the car battery (which would take a long time) the thing people should be worried about is premature wear on the car battery. These car batteries aren't meant to be drained, they are meant to start the car and that's about it. That's why even just a few full drains of a car battery can ruin it.
Its worth mentioning that on some cars you have a choice if you want continuous power or ignition only power to your cigarette lighter. In the case of my shitty old 206 (don't buy Peugeots, just don't, please) the fuse could be taken out and replaced in a different position thus switching between the two options.
£170 is more than some dash cams, my power magic works fine and does exactly the same thing for £40, it's a very niche solution to a problem that doesn't really exist, if you don't want to hard wire a cam yourself you can get it done for £20-30.
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Fuse taps fall into the same category as scotch locks - avoid at all costs as they cause issues eventually
I like your videos before I even watch them cos you're awesome
Same, he's very informative. Keep up the good work!!!
Rhys Laurenson
Rhys Laurenson
Rhys Laurenson
Thanks for this video. Just recieved my cellink B to monitor my Benz CLS using a duo cam. Now will have more peace of mind. My aim is to get another cam to have 360 degrees viewing.
You can't get a proper crimp with a pair of pliers. That wire will fall out or work itself loose eventually. Only use a proper crimp tool to do crimping if you don't want to start a fire in your car.
I've been looking at getting one of these, running the battery shouldn't be a problem if you use the car every single day I suppose
Could be usefull.
My car has a system that manages the battery power in an accident.
I imagine most modern cars have similar, especially if the battery is in the trunk. So the live cable runs the length of the car and could be dangerous in an accident.
So in a collision:
- Air bags fire in about 15ms(milliseconds) once the deceleration sensors activate.
- after 100ms a relay activates and cuts battery power at the battery. Its a large black box. Thus the engine stops and the fuel system stops. As a side note the fuel system depressurizes back to the fuel tank.
- A fused circuit does persist to the horn, hazards, park lights, and central locking. But if it shorts the fuse blows.
Hence I could see a persistant power source for a camera being useful. Assuming the camera remain in tact.
When you park up unplug the camera USB power lead from the USB plug adaptor in your 12v power plug ( the one that used to be for ciggy lighters ) and just plug the camera lead into a USB Battery pack ie the sort used to recharge mobile phones/tablets. If you get a decent size one it should run the camera for a good few hours !. You can recharge the battery pack by just plugging that into a spare USB power socket . I got a 12,000MAH one for £20 from amazon. It mightn't last as long but it's better than £100plus.
Would like to see teardown photos... like what charging circuit looks like
@6:50 mark - yes, original fuse in the bottom socket, new fuse in the top.
thanks for restoring the old intro music.
6:49 You made me smile there when you said "your crimping skills", which reminded me of The Mighty Boosh :D
Great review as always!
I have a VicoVation Marcus 4 dash cam and the VicoVation Power+ and the 'Parking mode works great.
(Has voltage drop cut-off/Temp cut-off and timer)
Had it professionally install and gave them to a fuse tap to use.
+
This product looks good but very bulky if, you wanted to hide it up, thanks for the review worth a look for the future.
This is good if your dashcam doesn't already have an internal battery, or if you want extended battery life. A good dashcam should have a backup battery. If you're in a bad car accident, your car may lose the 12V supply and a backup battery will ensure the video file is safely saved to the SD card.
they already nearly all have a small battery in them for just this reason. It doesn't last long, but that is because it is only there to save the video, which it does very rapidly
Great review and very well explained but the price!! wow, well over priced for what it is.
You could use a device used by camping/caravan uses that chargers a 2nd battery in the car (using a sealed battery) that charges it as you drive and then takes over the dash can power when the power is turned off. Ok it means a bit of DIY wiring but not that much more then the unit reviewed and the cost is about 20-30 pounds.
Hi great review just to point out with regards to the fuse tap im pretty sure the original fuse need to go in the lower one and vice versa 6:57 ☺️
Thanks - a couple of people have pointed this out (I was working blind as the instructions missed this part out completely). I've now added an annotation on the video...and I'll put something in the comments and the description text box.
Hi, nice toy. When I get better I will look further this product. I must admit that the name "cell" made me think that there was some sort of cellphone link to alert me if the car was jostled or hit by another car. Maybe something will come down the pike soon.
Most modern cars have security systems and keyless entry equipment that draws current while the car is parked, and they can sit for a pretty long time and still start.
IIGrayfoxII Right, but I'm not talking about leaving the camera on.
For those of us with electric cars, the 12v accessory battery is recharged by the drive battery automatically once a day, even if the car isn't being driven. Therefore a permanent live feed is absolutely viable even if the car is left parked up for weeks or months. I can see how this product would be useful for liquid dinosaur fuelled cars. Yes I saved £162 by buying a £42,000 electric car, bargain. Thank goodness for the instructional video on how to post a TH-cam comment,, how many of the rules did I mange to follow?
1:25 only takes about 7 billion years.
no, in reality it would take weeks to discharge a fully charged battery but yeah, it might be a problem for people who don't drive very often so they already have a low battery.
I have the cellink battery and blacksys 2 ch. dash cam. On the the input of the cellink , I hardwired the the black ground wire to a metal bolt and the red wire to an add a fuse to a acc fuse. on the output of cellink, I connected the red wire to red wire and yellow wire to yellow wire and black ground to black ground and plugged into the dash cam. now I have power to the dash cam, but when the engine is off it doesn't go to parking mode and while I'm driving, it keeps switching from driving mode recording to parking mode recording and vice versa. Any ideas what going on? do I connect all the wires right?
I don't recommend the Power Magic Pro if your car battery is old. I've used the PMP and it drained my car battery to the point my battery wasn't holding much charge at all and was unreliable even after I stopped using PMP. My car battery was several years old, so I'm sure that was the biggest factor. I bought a new car battery but haven't tried the PMP setup with it yet and I'm not entirely sure if I will. I like the idea of a separate battery for my dash cam, but living only one mile from my work only allows for a 5 minute charge time and so I will never be able to build a suitable charge for my desired run time while parked. Another concern I have with this battery backup is it's performance in sub-zero temperatures since I live in Michigan.
Interesting to hear about you experiences with the power magic pro, I've never tried one myself. Perhaps one day someone will make a solar powered dashcam battery
Good to know a specific product is available, as having a battery out of direct sunlight for me is something I would prefer (Still just taking my 0803 out of the mount because of what happened to my previous dash cam which I left in direct sunlight, however when it does begin to fail I know there more choice)
Old music again, yay
So base on this video a socket cigarette lighter is better. It's only draining the battery pack not the car battery itself. Sounds great I had my doubts about the product. When I first hear about it. And how it worked. I was confused. I needed a product that will not drain my car's battery.
Couple of questions
1) say for instance the cellink battery dies, would the dashcam continue to get its power from the main battery? I don't want my dashcam to lose power whilst in parking mode.
2) ...how do you set up the cellink battery so after it dies it hands it back to the main battery? Is it done by a method of wiring or are there some settings that can be changed on the cellink?
Techmoan, just to inform you, with the add a fuses you have to put the original fuse (blue) in the bottom slot ( nearest to the pins) and the new circuit fuse (yellow) in the top slot, this is becuase they both share a common positive but the bottom fuse links to the bottom pin and the top fuse links to the wire coming out of it, the way you have put them in means your power socket is now fed from a 20a fuse instead of a 15a fuse and if your wiring isnt big eneough to power 20a it could cause problems, but good video and i think i might get one myself :P
Thanks - a couple of people have pointed this out (I was working blind as the instructions missed this part out completely). I've now added an annotation on the video...and I'll put something in the comments and the description text box.
no probs, just wanted to let you know. on this occasion its alright but if for example you used an add a fuse for a second power socket (20a) but took the feed from your interior lighting fuse (5a) and got them the wrong way round it would be bad :)
This should be standard option in all modern vehicles. Amazes me the auto industry is so slow to adopt dash cam.
After watching your video's, I bought the Thinkware770 dual dash cam and also the Cellink B. Sent away for the hardwire kit. All this to use in a BMW i3. Found two suitable fuses and wired it all up. Works fine on normal driving, but in Park/ Motion detect mode, even though there is power to the jack plug on the camera, it does not capture video. I've been through the app on the phone and tried to locate any clues, to be able to switch on Parking mode. But in the month that its been fitted not a single file saved. I have even saved all the files on the micro Sd card, to a new card(fast) and downloaded the latest software for the 770, put this in the camera and got the quote of Software updating. Now I'm still wondering in this day of online buying, what are my options, it was purchased from the RAC site.
Just one thing, I don't think the quality of the video is as good as the 0803.
oaft. the price is a tad steep, wonder what the mah rating of the battery is...
also they missed a trick, if they had an optional usb socket output (switchable between the big 12v plug to stop people plugging loads in) then there would be one less voltage conversion and also less room to take up, as you would run a long usb to usb to the dash cam instead of 12v plug->dash cam plug to 5v long cable...
make hiding it easier too!
i do like the fuse box hard wire kit though, I would do that...
wait the mah rating is probably in the video...
+Michael Edmond yeah it's in there, that's a lot of cash for not that expensive a battery really.... I have a battery back up that holds more and cost less than 1/4, and was not even a Chinese make!
74Whr of LifePO4 batteries for 170 euros... thats ridiculous...
Hi Techmoan,
Thanks for sharing this video, I'm learning some great tips, I've got a dashcam, it hasn't got a parking mode, will the battery pack work without the parking mode?
Need one of these that adds solar in the mix so you can charge the battery when it's not running as well.
brilliant video mate.... I have learnt so much from all your videos... this was especially useful for me
Your videos are great have u seen casse-o-player app on andriod its an mp3 player which looks like a cassette player as the song gones on the tape moves and when the song changes it changes tapes. it as has uv meters it might be worth a short review or just to use its cool
Nice. When are you going to rip it to bits?
but what for? how long should be a camera on to drain battery? my Old ford has 2 fuse settings for power socket. I can leave my car, turn it off and the power will be delivered to the camera via standard 12v socket. I havent noticed problems with starting up a diesel Even After whole night when dashcam was recording. The second fuse position disables power in the socket After key is removed.
That´s a pretty cool idea but it looks like a bodged together product, hobby xt-60 connector, cheap chinese 12v lighter socket (both input and output). if yoou open it up its probably 4 or 8 18650 lifepo4 batteries with a chinese bms attached to protect and balance charge then
Always wonders me how different the legal situations form country to country can be, in Germany you would probably have to pay a huge fine for filming people on the sidewalk, and even just running a dashcam while you are driving is highly controversial.
Looks great, hopefully some slightly cheaper & more compact ones will be made down the line
Great and informative video as usual. Thanks Techmoan.
Do you think it's worth going this way or simply installing a second battery kit in the car and to hookup the dashcam to it?
Can I use a normal battery bank to get the Parking mode working??? Cos this hardwired thingy seems so difficult for me 🤦🏻♀️
This could enable us to set up our dash cameras anywhere, even outside of our cars id imagine...As long as its fully charged.
4:02 this is what i was looking for, now it makes sense. thank you!
I use a mobile phone external battery charger that offers pass through charging. It's plugged into a twin socket USB car adapter and the other end is into the camera..It works just the same except I still have a free USB port to charge my phone and if I am leaving the car parked up safely and need a power pack I can just unplug it and take it with me...this seems like a bit of an expensive method.
What's the chance of actually catching an incident on camera when it's usually set up to write over files after a set amount of time. Chances are you'll miss the incident if left overnight etc. Unless of course it's motion activated.
Be aware insurance companies get very grumpy if they find out you have added an accessory to your vehicle these days. If you had a vehicle fire with this device hard wired or even left overnight they use it as an excuse to invalid any claim.
Fantastic review Techmoan. I found it very useful and informative.
Can i used a power bank attach to a dash cam for parking all night...because my hard wire kit does not record all night
Good to hear that old music again
There is a lot of TPMS from China on e-Bay and they all seem to work on solar! Would you be able to have a look at one of those please? Cheers
I was thinking of doing this for my MiVue Dash Cam that has a dead internal battery. I plan on using a power rod or bank, just so it saves the video file. This might be easier!
As always, fun and informative. Have you done a review of that Thinkware F750 dashcam? I scrolled back through your reviews but could not see one.
tell us more about the golden watch😀
New subscriber. I love your vloggs and the advice you provide. Thank you.
It's just for dashcams, really anything from the acc port that doesn't draw a ton of power. I'd thinking of getting one to run a Raspberry Pi or similar computer.
I bought the cellink neo which is far better , for a Blackvue twin camera it records for 13 hours i am also going to get the extended battery pack which will allow up to 20 hours or so , keep in mind you also need a bigger memory card the 128 GB has a capacity to record about 17 hours for highest resolution recording for a twin camera set up , the systems are expensive i am up to over a grand so far with front and rear Blackvue, battery packs and memory cards , 128GB memory card to use is the Samsung pro endurance it cost me $76 Aussie on eBay there is a Blackvue one however that’s like $200 so stuff that
The old intro music is back 😄😄
Great video as always.
Thank you for yet another enjoyable well made video. Quite a nifty idea if you have the money.
Solid presentation. Very thorough. Thank you!
I use a solar cell array that I drop on the dashboard to keep the car battery topped up...Think it came from Maplin
Hey, i really adore your videos and i'd need some advice on a small thing, if you have the time of course.
I have an old VHS camera from 1988. it's perfect, never used ecc... but the battery has died.
I have searched everywhere for a replacement battery but i can't find one.
Do you have any tips for me on where to search for such batteries or some guide on how to build a custom solution?
Big thanks.
I'm surprised you can't find it...I've found new compatible batteries for many old camcorders and other vintage tech on eBay...the problem I'm having is finding the chargers.
Techmoan well, i have the original AC adapter/charger. the camera is a HITACHI VHS MOVIE. unfortunately i can't find a manual and it doesn't show a precise name on the camera itself. I really want to use this camera, because it's literally like new.
You might go look up battery rebuilding. Its not too big of a deal, if you get replacements with solder tabs. Just match the battery type and, size to the original battery. The ma hours can be higher though.
Example.
www.zbattery.com/NiCad-AA-1000mAh-Rechargeable-Battery-with-Solder-Tabs?gclid=Cj0KEQjw4J-6BRD3h_KIoqijwvkBEiQAfcPiBR0xHniMN_dle8-iiX4z31ehLFzwh5tiDJCTOw0zs7kaAhLz8P8HAQ
It's likely to be Nicad or even lead acid. Go to a battery rebuilder. They're around, you just need to find them. They will be able to put new cells in the old pack and make it good again.
I have yet another thought, although perhaps less tidy than finding a "new old stock" battery or having yours rebuilt. I had the same issue with my 80's BetaMovie cam I had. Worked great but the batteries went flat, would not charge and I could not find replacements. In the years since, battery technology has advanced tremendously. What I did was find a suitable Li-Po battery of similar voltage to original pack and plug it in directly to the power input jack on the camera. I then Velcro'd it to the back of the camera. This wasn't a big deal for me as I fly RC aircraft and have many Li-Po batteries and chargers for them. This brought the camera into present day battery tech and the batteries last longer and have much lower self-discharge than old Ni-Cd batteries. Just a thought.
thats a sweet gold watch you have there sir
hi , i would like to ask if this cellink B works on vantrue n4?
Hi. like your vids. I'm not normally a fan of serious comments but you have shown the fuses in the wrong position on the tap. Might be an idea to highlight it in case someone installed using your video instead of the poor manual.
keep up the good work.
It's OK, thanks but I'm on it - You can see mentioned it in the top comment, the description box and on an onscreen overlay on the video....and the manual doesn't make any mention of the fuse tap at all. That's why I resorted to guessing.
Cool, just thought it worth a mention in case someone followed your example, good to know you knew. now I can go back to my normal sarcastic style of commenting by hitting the keyboard with my penis (only ever short comments)
Make a review about the Gold HP-01 shown in your hand.
Please remind the manufacturer to include a ODB2 type connector for cameras such as the mini 807 and the nano 903
thumbs up for the original intro.
i was wondering how you connected the actual cam since the blackbox company never showed lol great review
The only problem I can see with this is that even with a 32gb sd card you will only get a few hours recording before the footage is overwritten. Probably fine for a shopping trip but not much help overnight etc
Thank you for all your videos, I've been bingin' on them in the last few weeks. I'm not so much into cameras/videocameras/dashcams but i think videos on old tech are really interesting. Most important, your accent is totally fine to me and I can understand about 95% of what you say (I'm italian).A small suggestion: a video about minidisc. For unknown reasons I've been growing very fond of this format in the past few months and I've put together a small collection of portable players (mostly from Sony), so I'd like to know what you think about this dead format.Greetings from Italy!
www.techmoan.com/blog/2016/7/18/minidisc.html
*Question*
Can this battery support two dashcam at once?
Hi Techmoan, do you have any plans to review any body worn cameras like the new one from Transcend ? Many thanks
You mean this one? th-cam.com/video/Op5NrWV2R6I/w-d-xo.html
Hey!
What happened to the Nixie watch?
i just purchased the celink battery b pack i heard1 then 2 beeps and it continues how to fix it
i got still confused! how cam understand when car is parked? still there is power it never be go automatically parking mode!
what about a portable power block ?
Can you purchase this in the USA? what website ?