Ok, I posted this on the other TH-cam video that gets some views too: reposting here to make it easier for people as well...I didn't find this particular video that helpful but anyway. A few notes that may be useful: UNPLUG THE TOASTER. Geez, like this wouldn’t be obvious, but ok, there we are. There are three Phillips head screws PH#1 underneath the toaster that have to be loosened to remove the shell that contains the failed part (the knob side) Then you have to release the cleaning catches on the underside of the toaster, flip down the glass sides like you were going to clean it, and take out two Torx #10 screws hidden in the frame sides that hold the end shell on (specialty screwdriver head). Then you need to slide the knob-side shell of the toaster upward with the knob and its lever stopping you from removing it entirely. If you look up into the slid-up shell with a flashlight at that point, you will see that the toaster knob is inserted into a vertical socket. A plastic latch holds the metal shaft for the knob into that socket. If you take a thin screwdriver you can pry the slot latch away just enough to release it and pull the knob and its stem out without any issue and without breaking the plastic retention latch. WIth the knob released, take entire shell off. You will see the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) with the solenoid that retains the toaster knob and holds your bread down-and that’s usually what has failed; the wires in the solenoid have corroded/broken. Use wire nippers to cut the two plastic zip ties holding the wire bundles BUT NOT THE WIRES to the printed circuit board. Unscrew the one Phillips head screw and the plastic hold down securing the printed circuit board and slide the printed circuit board out. You can then either attempt to repair the single solenoid as outlined in some other videos or you can buy the replacement printed circuit board and do a wholesale replacement. Prices for the entire new circuit boards from, oddly, British suppliers seem to range between $15 and $45 USD-- I don’t understand the difference in vendors ---and it takes 5 to 7 days of shipping. My solenoid just wouldn't allow itself to be repaired in the part evening I allocated to this, so--I ordered a new PCB. If you get a whole new circuit board, then you need to disconnect the multi-wired white plug from the board, then de-solder FOUR wires from the old PCB while you solder them sequentially back into the replacement PCB. Don't screw that up! I did them one at a time. Once you have the new circuit board soldered to those four wires, plug it in to the white wire harness plug that you carefully took off the old board, put the whole thing back together again with the two small zip ties that you clipped off. Re-attach the small Phillips screw and the plastic hold down that stabilizes the PCB to the toaster shell, then slide the shell back back on. Carefully put the lever back into the slot until the "click" tells you that the plastic latch is engaged on its metal shaft, attach the three Phillips screws underneath, and screw in the two Torx screws in the frame on either side of the glass flip out windows--and boom---you're back to toast.
could you show how you removed the side panel with the push down knob as i couldn't remove the knob and guessing that its firmly attached to the lever . Could you also show how to replace the 4 heating elements please . A nice but very expensive toaster and expensive to get repaired too
There are 4 heater elements; the top two should be about 32 Ohms the lower two about 45 Ohms (UK 240V version) The lower two fail first because of falling crumbs. They will look blotchy. The ends are not sealed - no halogen gases involved.
You have not explained what was wrong with your toaster. Moreover, there are 4 quartz heating elements, not 2. And they are not halogen. When you use your torch we see absolutely nothing anymore. Here is what to check if your Magimix Vision Toaster does not latch: 1. the small black lever (7:52) should be in the correct position to be held by the solenoid. Move it in the correct position 2. the solenoid could be broken. Order a new one for $20 and solder it in place
Yes very annoying. You just take out the three screws underneath at each end - then the sides will slide/lift up. Leave the 4 middle screws underneath in place. They have nothing to do with the fixing of the sides.
Incredibly helpful ! Toaster = fixed 👍 it will be toast for breakfast tomorrow !!!
Thanks for the comment. Glad you found it helpful. Cheers for now and take care.
Ok, I posted this on the other TH-cam video that gets some views too: reposting here to make it easier for people as well...I didn't find this particular video that helpful but anyway.
A few notes that may be useful:
UNPLUG THE TOASTER.
Geez, like this wouldn’t be obvious, but ok, there we are.
There are three Phillips head screws PH#1 underneath the toaster that have to be loosened to remove the shell that contains the failed part (the knob side)
Then you have to release the cleaning catches on the underside of the toaster, flip down the glass sides like you were going to clean it, and take out two Torx #10 screws hidden in the frame sides that hold the end shell on (specialty screwdriver head).
Then you need to slide the knob-side shell of the toaster upward with the knob and its lever stopping you from removing it entirely.
If you look up into the slid-up shell with a flashlight at that point, you will see that the toaster knob is inserted into a vertical socket.
A plastic latch holds the metal shaft for the knob into that socket. If you take a thin screwdriver you can pry the slot latch away just enough to release it and pull the knob and its stem out without any issue and without breaking the plastic retention latch.
WIth the knob released, take entire shell off. You will see the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) with the solenoid that retains the toaster knob and holds your bread down-and that’s usually what has failed; the wires in the solenoid have corroded/broken.
Use wire nippers to cut the two plastic zip ties holding the wire bundles BUT NOT THE WIRES to the printed circuit board.
Unscrew the one Phillips head screw and the plastic hold down securing the printed circuit board and slide the printed circuit board out.
You can then either attempt to repair the single solenoid as outlined in some other videos or you can buy the replacement printed circuit board and do a wholesale replacement.
Prices for the entire new circuit boards from, oddly, British suppliers seem to range between $15 and $45 USD-- I don’t understand the difference in vendors ---and it takes 5 to 7 days of shipping. My solenoid just wouldn't allow itself to be repaired in the part evening I allocated to this, so--I ordered a new PCB.
If you get a whole new circuit board, then you need to disconnect the multi-wired white plug from the board, then de-solder FOUR wires from the old PCB while you solder them sequentially back into the replacement PCB. Don't screw that up! I did them one at a time.
Once you have the new circuit board soldered to those four wires, plug it in to the white wire harness plug that you carefully took off the old board, put the whole thing back together again with the two small zip ties that you clipped off. Re-attach the small Phillips screw and the plastic hold down that stabilizes the PCB to the toaster shell, then slide the shell back back on. Carefully put the lever back into the slot until the "click" tells you that the plastic latch is engaged on its metal shaft, attach the three Phillips screws underneath, and screw in the two Torx screws in the frame on either side of the glass flip out windows--and boom---you're back to toast.
could you show how you removed the side panel with the push down knob as i couldn't remove the knob and guessing that its firmly attached to the lever . Could you also show how to replace the 4 heating elements please . A nice but very expensive toaster and expensive to get repaired too
just pull the knop firmly it is tight.
There are 4 heater elements; the top two should be about 32 Ohms the lower two about 45 Ohms (UK 240V version) The lower two fail first because of falling crumbs. They will look blotchy. The ends are not sealed - no halogen gases involved.
You have not explained what was wrong with your toaster. Moreover, there are 4 quartz heating elements, not 2. And they are not halogen. When you use your torch we see absolutely nothing anymore.
Here is what to check if your Magimix Vision Toaster does not latch:
1. the small black lever (7:52) should be in the correct position to be held by the solenoid. Move it in the correct position
2. the solenoid could be broken. Order a new one for $20 and solder it in place
You don’t even show how to take the side off?
yep.. 11:27 of rambling!
Yes very annoying. You just take out the three screws underneath at each end - then the sides will slide/lift up. Leave the 4 middle screws underneath in place. They have nothing to do with the fixing of the sides.
This is not a very good video why did he bother?
This showed nothing on how to a. B. C. To dismantle it. So thumbs down 👎
A really long-winded video which doesn't do what the title says - total waste of time. Have a thumbs down!