Just don't tell the engineers you are using wrb to plug holes. The idea of positively connecting the footing to the earth is to create a friction coefficient to prevent sliding in an earthquake. If you are in zones 3 or 4 definitely don't tell the EOR what you are doing. The inspectors sometimes know the code, but often overlook it. The best method for plugging gaps is 1/4" wire mesh. Enjoyed watching the way grandpa did it.
Those concrete form liners are an awesome idea. I could see them being extremely useful with basements. Basements are usually always poured in 3 separate pours. The footing, the walls then the floor. Concrete doesn't like to bond to cured concrete so micro cracks are formed in between the pours and are susceptible to hydrostatic pressure. The best performing drain tile are placed below the footing/foundation line leading to a sump pump or down grade. The way your footings are set up, you could immediately set your drain tile and paint/apply your below-grade waterproofing and the whole footing would be exposed to cleanly waterproof to. It would last forever. Never a damp basement. Keep the videos coming please! TY!
I wish we could have seen how you attach form liners. I’ve always been puzzled how they don’t pull off when you have a gap under your 2x6. Do they just get stapled on? Do they have lives for different footer depths and widths?
Off topic do your trim LPboards ever after eight years ever delaminate I see a lot of head and sill trim starting to root at the saw cuts and delaminate let me know bout your past jobs thanks
The stakes in question are made for this purpose and I've heard them referred to as, footing stakes. They are made of metal and have holes spaced in them to drive nails or screws through them to secure them to the lumber forms.
@@adammacer we have those as well but we only pull em out of the trailer when the ground is really tough or lots of rocks, I like the plastic they put on the footings, would save a lot of time and wood not having to fill in the gaps on the bottom with wood or gravel ( after you raise the footings )
Surely the minor cost of screws must be offset hundreds of times if you get a more accurate footing as all future steps will be easier and therefore cheaper. False economy not to use screws by the sounds of it
This is the worst footing job I have ever seen. The grade is not set correctly. You NEVER raise the footing forms over an inch. If you need to raise the forms over an inch, you need to hire another dozer operator because the one you have been using doesn't know how to grade.
awesome and snappy editing is great too. Ok the 3lb. maul is a "drilling hammer"; grab an sds bit and try it some time. ⅛-¼ turn every strike and hey presto you are a rotohammer. Thanks again, you guys are awesome and great to see you leading by teaching a person irl not just all of us in the ether.
It looks like they are using square stakes. An sds is still a good idea, just change the setting to hammer with no drill. Some kind of adapter might need to be rigged also, like an old broken bit welded to a bigger sized tube, a bigger sized tube with a thick wall.
For smaller footing jobs or filling gaps because of over dig, lumber wrap works really well and the yards are happy to see it disappear.
Just don't tell the engineers you are using wrb to plug holes. The idea of positively connecting the footing to the earth is to create a friction coefficient to prevent sliding in an earthquake. If you are in zones 3 or 4 definitely don't tell the EOR what you are doing. The inspectors sometimes know the code, but often overlook it. The best method for plugging gaps is 1/4" wire mesh. Enjoyed watching the way grandpa did it.
My Grandfather built 265 homes with a water level . No annoying beeping ! Great job.
Those concrete form liners are an awesome idea. I could see them being extremely useful with basements. Basements are usually always poured in 3 separate pours. The footing, the walls then the floor. Concrete doesn't like to bond to cured concrete so micro cracks are formed in between the pours and are susceptible to hydrostatic pressure. The best performing drain tile are placed below the footing/foundation line leading to a sump pump or down grade. The way your footings are set up, you could immediately set your drain tile and paint/apply your below-grade waterproofing and the whole footing would be exposed to cleanly waterproof to. It would last forever. Never a damp basement. Keep the videos coming please! TY!
I’ve used my pick ax way more than I expected, now it’s an essential tool!
Nice to see people doing it smart and correct- reminds me of my custom framing days. You guys are talented and passionate!
you should add "part 2" to the video title - took me a bit to find this one after watching the first :)
Yup. Like this style of the time-lapse first and then the trailing. Felt like I could have been Noah out there learning.
Awesome video! I've always wanted to try my hand at forming.
Such a GREAT channel!!
Greetings from Green Bay, Wis
I always have a pump on standby working in the mud. Makes life so much better lol
More layout and set up video please!
That looks like some good stake driving ground.
always super informative and interesting! Hello from Monday June 6, 2022. 91.8k subscribers!! look at you gooooo
Great video
Excelente video 👍 👏 👊
Question do you add kickers to the forms to prevent it from moving when you place concrete in the fast form? Great series on how you build a house.
Fish finders going off, now I wish I would of remembered the boat plug.
I wish we could have seen how you attach form liners. I’ve always been puzzled how they don’t pull off when you have a gap under your 2x6. Do they just get stapled on? Do they have lives for different footer depths and widths?
same question I had.. I don't see that holding... but I'm sure it does, they seem to know their trade well.
Getting steps in on footing day= LOL!
Thank you!
Nice one! Do you ever form your stem wall at the same time and pour footing and stem wall at once?
Video on how to form a tee foundation
Would you mind divulging the name of your engineer? Looking to get a house designed soon and I like the way your guy thinks
Off topic do your trim LPboards ever after eight years ever delaminate I see a lot of head and sill trim starting to root at the saw cuts and delaminate let me know bout your past jobs thanks
Anybody know what laser level he's using?
Awesome 😻😻😻🥳🥳🥳
How are those stakes holding the wood up
The stakes in question are made for this purpose and I've heard them referred to as, footing stakes. They are made of metal and have holes spaced in them to drive nails or screws through them to secure them to the lumber forms.
Do you prefer round or square stakes for the forms? Looks like you have round and suspect that is what you have always used.
Here in b.c. Kamloops ( Canada) we mainly use little wood stakes to raise it up, seems to work alright
I can only get square stakes on the east coast, unless I wanna pay almost as much in shipping for them 😕
@@dustinbone4942 Here in Pemberton, BC we use the round rebar stakes with holes for nails/screws (which looks like what Tim uses too)
@@adammacer we have those as well but we only pull em out of the trailer when the ground is really tough or lots of rocks, I like the plastic they put on the footings, would save a lot of time and wood not having to fill in the gaps on the bottom with wood or gravel ( after you raise the footings )
Noahs new name is Shane 2
How to form a tee footing
Surely the minor cost of screws must be offset hundreds of times if you get a more accurate footing as all future steps will be easier and therefore cheaper. False economy not to use screws by the sounds of it
FIrst
This is the worst footing job I have ever seen. The grade is not set correctly. You NEVER raise the footing forms over an inch. If you need to raise the forms over an inch, you need to hire another dozer operator because the one you have been using doesn't know how to grade.
awesome and snappy editing is great too. Ok the 3lb. maul is a "drilling hammer"; grab an sds bit and try it some time. ⅛-¼ turn every strike and hey presto you are a rotohammer. Thanks again, you guys are awesome and great to see you leading by teaching a person irl not just all of us in the ether.
It looks like they are using square stakes. An sds is still a good idea, just change the setting to hammer with no drill. Some kind of adapter might need to be rigged also, like an old broken bit welded to a bigger sized tube, a bigger sized tube with a thick wall.