Yes 2x3 from home depot works best, and you should use the 3" (2 1/2) side for your hens to roost on. This allows them to curl their claws over the edge a bit and still be able to cover their feet in the wintertime. Also router the edge smooth.
Hi, my general research about roosts, all indicate that, nesting boxes, should always be under de rooster so that chickens won't sleep inside nesting boxes, and, because they will always go to the highest spot to sleep in. Just a tip.
@@ZEEALL I heard you. I just love wood & I try to keep it very clean...put some baking soda in the corners... and some apple cider vinegar in the chickens water...and well... their dust bath. Lol
Not one above the other (things will get awfully dirty)...I think what you meant is that all roosts should be at a greater height than the nest boxes... otherwise they may prefer roosting on or in the nest boxes...
Nice roosts! I used pallets for my roosts held up with 2x4s screwed to them then slide boot trays under to catch poop. I just empty the boot trays which means less complete coop cleaning for me. I remove every other board then sand the remaining ones smooth chickens seem to really like them as I also have a regular 2x4 roost and the all roost on the pallet roost.
In cold climates like northern states and Canada, toes exposed below feather cover are subject to frost bite. 4” is standard MINIMUM perch width in northern climates where temperatures drop below freezing. Chickens without feet (due to frost bite) is a real thing, and you will run into mention of this issue a lot on the poultry forums (people writing in when they discover their chickens’ toes and feet have frozen). A simple search for the term frost bite, or frost bitten toes should demonstrate. If you want to curve the edges of the perches to make them more “ergonomic” that’s fine, but observe your chickens’ feet at night when they are roosting to make sure the toes aren’t exposed. Larger breeds with bare legs are even more susceptible. It should go without saying that if you are installing perches low enough for smaller predators to reach (Rats, Weasels, Minks) that the run and sleeping area must be ABSOLUTELY PREDATOR PROOF, with 1/2” wire mesh (commonly sold as “hardware cloth”) surrounding all the open-air areas and all gaps between wood panels and under doors closed up to prevent them getting in. Weasels and minks will chase down chickens and usually wipe out an entire flock in one visit. Rats devour food and have been shown in video surveillance footage to occasionally kill vulnerable members of a flock. Another note, since chickens seek the highest roost, make sure your nest boxes are on a lower level than the roosts, or they’ll roost (and poo all night) in the nests, dirtying the eggs. All surfaces should be painted (or limed) to seal the wood for hygiene purposes. That is standard for any livestock and dog/cat kennels/boarding facilities as well and Animal Welfare inspectors check for that. Bacteria, viruses, and mites will get into the cracks and pores of bare wood and cause disease conditions, and it’s very difficult to sanitize bare wood. The brackets are a good idea for supporting the perches. 👍 Chickens tend to buddy-up with their favorite companions at night and you might see groups of five or six side by side with a loner off by herself, and perches without support brackets can sag.
Nicely done! Fun to watch! Love the giraffe perch! Lol! And that angry chicken, guess she didn't want us to 'screw' with her laying progress! Smiles and blessings...
I would’ve put the 1 X 2 with the longer side up so they would be more comfortable. My coop has 2 X 4 roosts with the 4” side up. The reason I did this is they like to rest their breast bone on the roost as well.
It's a good idea to have the roosts higher than the nests, since chickens tend to roost on the highest place possible. I enjoy your videos and glad to be a subscriber!
James Reimer - Yes. Chickens don't fly up to lay their eggs. I have my nesting boxes on the floor (since chickens "in the wild" lay their eggs on the ground).
That as you called it 1 x 3 is accually a 2x3. As a rule dementia lumber is a 1/2" small then what you call it. I.e. a 2x4 accually measures (1-1/2"x3-1/2')
@@ThoughtProvokingVlogs if a branch from an oak tree is kept out of direct weather. The ground + rain. it will last a long time. i recommend cutting one green so it can naturally slowly air try instead of getting wet over n over again causing rot. which occurs fast from dead branches falling down. cut them fresh they will stay strong.
I pick out ~2" diameter birch staves from when we cleared some land. I cut them to size for our modular coop. They are all 2' above the ground, with a single screw holding them at each end to a 2" x 4" that's part of the coop. My hens and Roo love them (though they also love setting on top of the coop when it's bedtime. I have 4 roosts: about 17 linear feet of roost for 13 hens + a large roo + plus now, an 18 week tiny pullet that got included accidentally in our meat bird order this year. (!)
Where do the hens rest mostly, on the roost or in the nest? Theoretically the roost should be higher than the nests entrance. Correct or its not important? Thanks!
My understanding is 45° angle of boards vertically running into the ground. The first board 3 ft from the ground vertically then the rest of the boards one foot apart. This gives the angle you need for the feet and a tail Length space between chickens. As you explained the first board being 3 feet up makes it to where they fly to get to the first Roost so that they feel comfortable and safe
i read somewhere for us that live in cold climate having a 2x4 flat side up so they can lay on there feet more with there bellys to keep there feet warmer so thats how mine are. what foot problems can occur you speak of? i want to make sure my girls are not hurting there feet.
Research has shown that for regular sized chickens the ideal width is between 2" and 2.5" (real measurement) with the top edges/corners rounded off or slightly beveled (~1.5" for bantam breeds). You don't want their toes to have to try to wrap clear around but you don't want them totally flat like on a 2x4 on flat. Lumber is always smaller than its nominal dimensions... a 2x4 is actually ~1.5" x3.5" . A 2x3 is just about right for roosts (1.5" x 2.5" real measurement).
Thanks for all the great ideas. I have a question, I have a rooster that showed up a few years ago. He lives in my yard during the day and the tree at night. He was chased out of the tree a few weeks ago and ran off. Yesterday he returned but is looking for a safe place to roost. What do you suggest to create do give him a safe place to go at night? Lazy night he slept in a tree with very little branch support and no shelter. All our trees happen to be trimmed back as well. He is afraid to return to the tree he was chased out of and that is the only one we left untrimmed. So, thank you in advance for anyone with suggestions.
I see you are not a wood worker. The "1x2" you are as you called it is actually a 2x3. You loose about a 1/4 inch on each side when it is planed. Giving you 1 1/2 x 2 1/2.
Tim Pedzinski in the U.K. it’s 3x2 planed and 3x2 rough sawn 😉. Love the stuff that and 4x2 anything over that then it sucks try 12x6x3m oak carry and work with that all day aaarrrgh 🥵 work.
Aust! Great work here bud! I created a clip of what you said, magically exists as what I consider Chicken Raising Rule #2 from @2:13-2:20. Very eloquently stated sir!
Can you believe that early in the 20th century could actually buy roost lumber? I find it around this farm. It was 1 5/8" X 3" square edges on the bottom and 1 5/8 radius on the top. Today you can make it with a router table and a rounding bit. Back then, they were building thousands of chicken houses like the one I have here in Western Washington.
I skipped the metal brackets. Just screw a 2x4 scrap on each wall, and cut a 2x2 (actually 1-1/2 x 1-1/2) long enough to fit snugly from wall to wall, resting on each scrap. A screw down into that scrap holds it immovable. If you're worried about weight, put a floor-to-roost support in the center. It's not the Taj Mahal, but it's just chickens. And it'll last a lifetime.
I just do it like the old folks.....the reason they did it the way they did is cause it works....yer roost is great....the old folks woulda put it about 4 ft off the ground so critters wouldnt eat em before they did....Many Blessings
Yes, it's called a 2x3 but the actual dimensions are approximately 1.5 x 2.5... just like a 2x4 is actually about 1.5 x 3.5 in real measurements... Planed and kiln dried lumber is always a bit smaller in dimension than its "nominal" dimensions...
I'd put the laying boxes below the roosts--maybe a ft. from the ground. That way, they don't sleep in them and cause mess. Not under the roosts of course....
Brilliant! I see the latter Roost all the time, they are a horrible design for chickens. I get it, the latter design is a literal ladder that the chickens can climb like a staircase to the highest perch, and then they all squeeze on that highest perch. It's best to have the roost all on the same level and create a ladder for them to get to that Roost if necessary.
Hi Austin, You tube unsubscribed me from your channel, I have missed you lately, Now I know why ! Do your chickens stand in front of the nest box at night? mine do and poo in the nests real pain!!!
The roost needs to be far enough away from the wall or other roosts to give birds enough space to avoid crowding up against wall or other birds. After all, would you want to sleep with your tail in a bunch?
glad to see you wearing a mask to clean. As a child I got hytoplasmosis from cleaning out the bird house, Don't know if it was the chickens or the pigeons that also desided to make the nest in the hen house. Its a fungus you get in your lungs from breathing it in from bird dropings. Really not fun for a kid who loved to run. I would get out of breath just barely walking.
you actually dont want them flat footed they are curve footed animals that need a grip so they can curl over. if their feet are flat itll mess their tendons up.. its like a human with arched soles. if you wore a flat foot your feet would constantly hurt.
thats a 2x3 not a 1x2 .. if it were a 1x2 it would be 5/8 x 1-5/8 lol so that being 2.5 inches wide it would be a 2x3 still they always make them slightly smaller.
those buldings are pretty permanent. you should see what i use. bamboo roofed railed staked into the ground coop+runs and A-frames made from 1x3's . yes 1x3's lol not even good ones either press board ones.. but hey if its pained with cheap exterior paint with at least 2 covers it will last.
chickens prefer 2-2.5 inches per a UK study, and any chicken raising facility is required to provide roosting for all chickens....NO CAGE chickens with proper place to sleep. They are ahead of us overthere.
Depends on the breed. Some have lighter bodies and stronger wings. Typical dual purpose breeds are a bit heavy compared to their wing size/strength, especially the larger ones like Jersey Giants and Brahmas...
4:40 it’s actually a 2x3 . Actual size of the lumber is 1-1/2 X 2-1/2
. . . . . Saw it ! I'm glad I checked comments before posting . we will forgive him .
Yes 2x3 from home depot works best, and you should use the 3" (2 1/2) side for your hens to roost on. This allows them to curl their claws over the edge a bit and still be able to cover their feet in the wintertime. Also router the edge smooth.
Also not good to put roost next to nesting boxes because they will roost in the boxes and poop in here. Then you get dirty eggs.
Hi Austin, I just want to compliment you on the quality of your video's. They are a delight to watch and I look forward to watching them everyday!
Hi, my general research about roosts, all indicate that, nesting boxes, should always be under de rooster so that chickens won't sleep inside nesting boxes, and, because they will always go to the highest spot to sleep in. Just a tip.
Spot on. You are correct.
That is the same I learnt. That the roosts have to be above the nests. And all my nests are wooden nests as I don't like plastic.
@@susyesmera4633... beware, too much wood is too many mites...
@@ZEEALL I heard you. I just love wood & I try to keep it very clean...put some baking soda in the corners... and some apple cider vinegar in the chickens water...and well... their dust bath. Lol
Not one above the other (things will get awfully dirty)...I think what you meant is that all roosts should be at a greater height than the nest boxes... otherwise they may prefer roosting on or in the nest boxes...
There are at least two happy families over there... on my word, good humor is contagious. Thanks...
Nice roosts! I used pallets for my roosts held up with 2x4s screwed to them then slide boot trays under to catch poop. I just empty the boot trays which means less complete coop cleaning for me. I remove every other board then sand the remaining ones smooth chickens seem to really like them as I also have a regular 2x4 roost and the all roost on the pallet roost.
could i get a visual of what your describing? i have a bunch of reclaimed pallets sitting around
I love to see this to
In cold climates like northern states and Canada, toes exposed below feather cover are subject to frost bite. 4” is standard MINIMUM perch width in northern climates where temperatures drop below freezing. Chickens without feet (due to frost bite) is a real thing, and you will run into mention of this issue a lot on the poultry forums (people writing in when they discover their chickens’ toes and feet have frozen). A simple search for the term frost bite, or frost bitten toes should demonstrate. If you want to curve the edges of the perches to make them more “ergonomic” that’s fine, but observe your chickens’ feet at night when they are roosting to make sure the toes aren’t exposed. Larger breeds with bare legs are even more susceptible.
It should go without saying that if you are installing perches low enough for smaller predators to reach (Rats, Weasels, Minks) that the run and sleeping area must be ABSOLUTELY PREDATOR PROOF, with 1/2” wire mesh (commonly sold as “hardware cloth”) surrounding all the open-air areas and all gaps between wood panels and under doors closed up to prevent them getting in. Weasels and minks will chase down chickens and usually wipe out an entire flock in one visit. Rats devour food and have been shown in video surveillance footage to occasionally kill vulnerable members of a flock.
Another note, since chickens seek the highest roost, make sure your nest boxes are on a lower level than the roosts, or they’ll roost (and poo all night) in the nests, dirtying the eggs.
All surfaces should be painted (or limed) to seal the wood for hygiene purposes. That is standard for any livestock and dog/cat kennels/boarding facilities as well and Animal Welfare inspectors check for that. Bacteria, viruses, and mites will get into the cracks and pores of bare wood and cause disease conditions, and it’s very difficult to sanitize bare wood.
The brackets are a good idea for supporting the perches. 👍 Chickens tend to buddy-up with their favorite companions at night and you might see groups of five or six side by side with a loner off by herself, and perches without support brackets can sag.
Nicely done! Fun to watch! Love the giraffe perch! Lol! And that angry chicken, guess she didn't want us to 'screw' with her laying progress! Smiles and blessings...
Greetings...C'mon Dad, at the end with the Crew, Awesome. May there be much Happiness. Thanks for the Knowledge. Praise Our Lord and Saviour Jesus.
I would’ve put the 1 X 2 with the longer side up so they would be more comfortable. My coop has 2 X 4 roosts with the 4” side up. The reason I did this is they like to rest their breast bone on the roost as well.
That hen 🐔 was reading you the riot act! LOL
Its actually technical, the details are important. Great post
It's a good idea to have the roosts higher than the nests, since chickens tend to roost on the highest place possible. I enjoy your videos and glad to be a subscriber!
James Reimer - Yes. Chickens don't fly up to lay their eggs. I have my nesting boxes on the floor (since chickens "in the wild" lay their eggs on the ground).
A "furring strip 1.75x1.75" can be purchased at any hardware/lumber store and work great for roosts.
That as you called it 1 x 3 is accually a 2x3. As a rule dementia lumber is a 1/2" small then what you call it. I.e. a 2x4 accually measures (1-1/2"x3-1/2')
Thanks 👍
That 1"x 3" thing was killing me😠
If you use the deep litter method, you will have to clean less often, will eliminate odors, and get some awesome compost!
HAHAHA!! Love when the chicken was yelling at you that was so funny!
We cut saplings....just like in nature, the chickens like a tree branch so, I provide natural for them.
How long do they last? They don't break? 😮
@@ThoughtProvokingVlogs if a branch from an oak tree is kept out of direct weather. The ground + rain. it will last a long time.
i recommend cutting one green so it can naturally slowly air try instead of getting wet over n over again causing rot. which occurs fast from dead branches falling down. cut them fresh they will stay strong.
@@fragglefknrock7568 First of all, love me some fraggle rock.
Also thank you for the suggestion, I will try this out :)
@@ThoughtProvokingVlogs hey no problem.
I pick out ~2" diameter birch staves from when we cleared some land. I cut them to size for our modular coop. They are all 2' above the ground, with a single screw holding them at each end to a 2" x 4" that's part of the coop. My hens and Roo love them (though they also love setting on top of the coop when it's bedtime.
I have 4 roosts: about 17 linear feet of roost for 13 hens + a large roo + plus now, an 18 week tiny pullet that got included accidentally in our meat bird order this year. (!)
Where do the hens rest mostly, on the roost or in the nest? Theoretically the roost should be higher than the nests entrance. Correct or its not important? Thanks!
Hi Austin, thank you making this great video! Evidence based information in an absolute fun way format!
We use tree branches for our roost . They seem to like it and last longer too
Who knew the roost would also be perfect for giraffes? ❤
My understanding is 45° angle of boards vertically running into the ground. The first board 3 ft from the ground vertically then the rest of the boards one foot apart. This gives the angle you need for the feet and a tail Length space between chickens. As you explained the first board being 3 feet up makes it to where they fly to get to the first Roost so that they feel comfortable and safe
i read somewhere for us that live in cold climate having a 2x4 flat side up so they can lay on there feet more with there bellys to keep there feet warmer so thats how mine are. what foot problems can occur you speak of? i want to make sure my girls are not hurting there feet.
If they want their toes to curl they will just sit forward on the board more and let them curl and if they get cold they will back up and lay on them
they have a back toe that can be strained if its not over the back of the board. this is not a good thing to do.
Victor Forte did he answer the question
Research has shown that for regular sized chickens the ideal width is between 2" and 2.5" (real measurement) with the top edges/corners rounded off or slightly beveled (~1.5" for bantam breeds). You don't want their toes to have to try to wrap clear around but you don't want them totally flat like on a 2x4 on flat. Lumber is always smaller than its nominal dimensions... a 2x4 is actually ~1.5" x3.5" . A 2x3 is just about right for roosts (1.5" x 2.5" real measurement).
That is hysterical. Best video ever
Hahaha 😅 the sleeping/chicken fingers part was good. Very clever Mr.
Good information , and really funny upsetting the chicken in the nest ! Lol
I saw a giraffe, trying to roost!😂😂😂 great video! Thank you for all of the information!
I really appreciate this video in the scientific evidence thank you. I have a small 4 x 6 coop… How far away should the roost be from the coop wall?
Bout 6 inches or a little more or less depending on how big or small yer chickens are
Awesome crew work guys!!!!
Great info, a question I was asking. I like how the combination of scientific study + Homesteady reality = happy chickens, the perfect formula!
Omg dude I cracked the frick up this whole video 💖 CHICKEN FINGERS
YOUR KIDS ARE SOOO DARN CUTE!🥰🥰🥰
A 1 by 2 is 5/8 by 1 1/2, so he is actually using a 2 x 3.
Dude. “Hot and fresh out the chicken”. Totally missed an opportunity there 😂😂😂
Great information thanks for sharing
Thanks for all the great ideas. I have a question, I have a rooster that showed up a few years ago. He lives in my yard during the day and the tree at night. He was chased out of the tree a few weeks ago and ran off. Yesterday he returned but is looking for a safe place to roost. What do you suggest to create do give him a safe place to go at night? Lazy night he slept in a tree with very little branch support and no shelter. All our trees happen to be trimmed back as well. He is afraid to return to the tree he was chased out of and that is the only one we left untrimmed. So, thank you in advance for anyone with suggestions.
That is a strange situation, do you think some kind of oversized parrot perch would work out?
i like your nesting boxes too
I see you are not a wood worker. The "1x2" you are as you called it is actually a 2x3. You loose about a 1/4 inch on each side when it is planed. Giving you 1 1/2 x 2 1/2.
Took the words right out of my mouth
Tim Pedzinski in the U.K. it’s 3x2 planed and 3x2 rough sawn 😉. Love the stuff that and 4x2 anything over that then it sucks try 12x6x3m oak carry and work with that all day aaarrrgh 🥵 work.
Harsh crowd
Thank you, very helpful.
Keep your rude comments to yourself buddy. Not everyone is a wood worker, and a lot who think they are just be hack butcher carpenters.
I used banister stock for my roosts.
Aust! Great work here bud! I created a clip of what you said, magically exists as what I consider Chicken Raising Rule #2 from @2:13-2:20. Very eloquently stated sir!
Can you believe that early in the 20th century could actually buy roost lumber? I find it around this farm. It was 1 5/8" X 3" square edges on the bottom and 1 5/8 radius on the top. Today you can make it with a router table and a rounding bit. Back then, they were building thousands of chicken houses like the one I have here in Western Washington.
Hans Quistorff that's pretty cool. I didn't know that.
Hello from Western Washington, neighbor!!
ok real question, how high is too high. My birds started flying up into my cupola. That's a fairly drafty 8-10 ft off the ground.
I skipped the metal brackets. Just screw a 2x4 scrap on each wall, and cut a 2x2 (actually 1-1/2 x 1-1/2) long enough to fit snugly from wall to wall, resting on each scrap. A screw down into that scrap holds it immovable. If you're worried about weight, put a floor-to-roost support in the center. It's not the Taj Mahal, but it's just chickens. And it'll last a lifetime.
Excellent video . Thanks for sharing tips
what is the chicken breed called for the chicken at 9:38
??
thaks for the info about roost thanks
Thankyou so much for your help
Do you have a vid that shows how you range your flock/stock? It looks like you have a huge yard for everyone, but I think that may be wrong?
I'm so excited for the big news!
Thank you, I have mixed age chickens and they are unsettled and don’t seem to be resting well at night.
A 2 x 4 works perfect just playing down the rough edges
Great information! Thank you!
Great job kids!
Good job I love ur video and I love chicken though u can use chicken in permaculture to turn ur compost will scratching
I just do it like the old folks.....the reason they did it the way they did is cause it works....yer roost is great....the old folks woulda put it about 4 ft off the ground so critters wouldnt eat em before they did....Many Blessings
All good on wearing safety goggles just put them in the correct position in future to protect your sight 😂👍🏻 nice vid though!
Chicken Toes~!? Great job with the video. Well done, ThanQ.
What about a finish on the roost for easiest cleaning?
Did you drill the brackets into studs?
it looks like he drilled in between the main studs that would line up with the roof pitch.. just rememeber he called a 2x3 a 1x2 soo... yeah
They always roosted in trees and tree branches are round. They choose which branches fit their feet.
How do you keep your roost bar clean?
That's a 2x3, Aust, not a 1x2.
Thanks, my mistake! Hopefully the dimensions will be enough for other 😆
Yes, it's called a 2x3 but the actual dimensions are approximately 1.5 x 2.5... just like a 2x4 is actually about 1.5 x 3.5 in real measurements...
Planed and kiln dried lumber is always a bit smaller in dimension than its "nominal" dimensions...
I love this. How did you secure the roost to the brackets? Just that rope?
Doesn't the nesting boxes have to be below the roost
I'm so happy to see young families having children.
I'm with you... chicken tenders!!
I'd put the laying boxes below the roosts--maybe a ft. from the ground. That way, they don't sleep in them and cause mess. Not under the roosts of course....
Brilliant! I see the latter Roost all the time, they are a horrible design for chickens. I get it, the latter design is a literal ladder that the chickens can climb like a staircase to the highest perch, and then they all squeeze on that highest perch. It's best to have the roost all on the same level and create a ladder for them to get to that Roost if necessary.
Those big fat washers are called fender washers.
Also makes a WONDERFUL giraffe roost!
in forty yrs of keeping chickens i have never leveled a roost but we only have country chickens
Oh GOSH YOU HAVE A BIG BRAHMA.👏👏👏😍
I’m a first time chicken mama to two 4 month old Bantam Cochin Frizzles. Their feet are smaller so a 1x1 maybe???
Hi Austin, You tube unsubscribed me from your channel, I have missed you lately, Now I know why ! Do your chickens stand in front of the nest box at night? mine do and poo in the nests real pain!!!
Loved the information! Thank you Austin. You just saved my chicken's feet! I had the perches the wrong way! Thank you!
Him: big heavy birds
What he’s talking about: laying hens
The roost needs to be far enough away from the wall or other roosts to give birds enough space to avoid crowding up against wall or other birds. After all, would you want to sleep with your tail in a bunch?
glad to see you wearing a mask to clean. As a child I got hytoplasmosis from cleaning out the bird house, Don't know if it was the chickens or the pigeons that also desided to make the nest in the hen house. Its a fungus you get in your lungs from breathing it in from bird dropings. Really not fun for a kid who loved to run. I would get out of breath just barely walking.
and make sure the pointed screws r not too long poke thru the other side
Have you noticed they jockey for the window ?
YOU HAD a 2x3 - Home Depot has them.
All our birds crowd together on the one roost leaving a ton of extra room on the other roosts. So that 10"+ thing is bullshit.
Nest boxes above roost ? Interesting Bill Nye.
That's called a 2x3, not a 1x2. Rounding off the edges looks like a good idea though.
Nesting boxes should be lower than roosts
Great! Now I want chicken fingers!
I was wondering where the blues clues guy went!!!
That's a 2x3, which is nominally 1.5x2.5 inches
You actually do want them flat footed. Not correct to say you have to have them slightly grip the roost.
you actually dont want them flat footed they are curve footed animals that need a grip so they can curl over. if their feet are flat itll mess their tendons up.. its like a human with arched soles. if you wore a flat foot your feet would constantly hurt.
thats a 2x3 not a 1x2 .. if it were a 1x2 it would be 5/8 x 1-5/8 lol so that being 2.5 inches wide it would be a 2x3 still they always make them slightly smaller.
that's not a 1x 2 that's the dimensions of a finish cut 2 x 3.
You need more and bigger permanent buildings.
those buldings are pretty permanent. you should see what i use. bamboo roofed railed staked into the ground coop+runs and A-frames made from 1x3's . yes 1x3's lol not even good ones either press board ones.. but hey if its pained with cheap exterior paint with at least 2 covers it will last.
It' a 2x3, not a 1x2. Otherwise, nice video.
Was going to say the same thing.
We use 2x4's and the chickens just move to the edge to roost.
Not talons -those are raptors. Chickens have claws.
Just a minor detail - safety glasses don't protect eyes when on top of your head - lol 😂😂😂🐥🐥I m not one to talk, i never wear them👎
Mr. Potato head I thought he was trying to protect his hair..😂😂
chickens prefer 2-2.5 inches per a UK study, and any chicken raising facility is required to provide roosting for all chickens....NO CAGE chickens with proper place to sleep. They are ahead of us overthere.
Sounds like a 2x3 stud
My chickens Fly down from 2 meters high and they are ok.
Depends on the breed. Some have lighter bodies and stronger wings. Typical dual purpose breeds are a bit heavy compared to their wing size/strength, especially the larger ones like Jersey Giants and Brahmas...
Just a strong lemb of a tree works it doesn't take science to raise chickens people