Finally embracing AUTO ISO on my Fujifilm.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 พ.ค. 2024
- As I get lazier day by day, I've decided to finally give AUTO ISO a try. But first, there's much to prep.
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Guys beware of the comments. Spam bots claiming to be me are attacking. You didn’t win anything. I’m too cheap.
I just sent you a message on your website making sure you knew. I can send you screenshots if you need them. Using your picture. Pretending to be you. Unbelievable 😡
Yeah, shit-heads using what looks to be a genuine acct - even has your charming face…
Chris (@pal2tech) encountered this as well a while back.
Omar, keep you chin up & keep reaching for the stars. 😘
They did try it on with me i may be old but i'm not dull
You didn’t win anything. I’m too cheap. LMAO xD
Interesting and well explained, as usual! (I wish I could apply noise reduction -4 to my neighbours 😂)
Good one😂
LOL! Or just use the cropping and erasing tools to edit them out of the scene... ;-)
A great shot is never ruined by noise. Unfortunately most of us take lots of boring shots that lack any interesting content, and that's where viewers pick holes in technique. The thing that catches people out with auto ISO is exposure compensation, which alters ISO and doesn't darken or lighten the image.
oh....
Excellent, clear and thoughtful approach. Thank you for the motivation!
Another great informative video Omar, keep up the good work.
hey Omar, that was a super helpful video. Thanks a lot for this! More practical tips like this please. 💛
Terrific vid. I love the clarity of your explanations, your enthusiasm and bits of humor sprinkled throughout. 👍
I love it how much love you you still give the X-T2!
Always end up Great , lots of fun . Thanks Omar!
I used to avoid Auto ISO on my XH-1 entirely, even with the IBIS, but when Topaz refined Gigapixel AI and Sharpen AI....game changer. Those two programs can literally save many photos that I would have rejected immediately as too blurry, too much noise, etc. Amazing programs and highly recommended. Thanks for your channel.....great job.
Always learning stuff from you. Many thanks.
"Wit beyond measure, is Man's greatest treasure!" Cool pic of the diadem Omar! and as always great video! Thanks!
Wonderful! As an “intermediate” hobbyist, I tend to mostly use Aperture Priority most of the time, but this really helps me remember that I still need to watch the shutter speed and in certain situations go to a manual mode if I want to catch action for instance. It also motivates me to double-check my auto-ISO settings. Great job as always - thank you SO MUCH 😊
Thanks Omar,
Awesome video, so well explained.
I also have the x-t2 and coincidentally have the right button set to auto iso.
I use auto iso 90% of the time.
When I need to freeze fast action it’s a quick spin of the shutter speed dial up to say 1/800 or higher and fire away, then back to auto.
Beautifully done ! Of course those with other cameras will need to modify thus somewhat ; but the principle remains the same.
I love using custom settings and there was a time when I set them up that I soon forgot what I had because I didn’t use them often enough . I would recommend making a note on your phone of all your custom settings because a) you always have your phone with you b) if you don’t save it to notes on your phone then take photos of handwritten notes and access in a saved photo file on the phone .
And Omar ; those AI soft wear are great and are worth a look .
Great video as always
Thanks for this, Omar. I have gone back and forth with ISO on my XT3 and this really helps set some parameters to experiment with.
Glad you're embracing auto-ISO, Omar!. I've been using it for years. I was hesitant until I realized that I have total control of AutoISO and it allows the camera the appropriate range of values in order to get the best exposure.. When light is changing rapidly in a fast moving setting, there is no time to be changing ISO.
Omar always making my day. The only fuji Samurai left.
🥋
for real estate photography i use auto "custom" iso on my xt4 and set it to max out at my max setting, usually 800 for that application but it will use lower when it can, etc. it works well for that! I'm also shooting bracket exposure so the reason i started doing that is so the darker brackets don't take for ever to snap!
Man, you are the best photographer youtuber person advicer on youtube, thanks alot for sharing-
Welcome to the club! 🤙
Especially when it comes to street photography.
I'm typically a manual SS/aperture raw+jpg shooter who often uses Auto ISO for changing light conditions. My main concern with the XT-2/20 dual gain sensor is not getting trapped at ISO 500 or 640 when ISO 800 is a better exposure value at the floor of the second stage. On rare occasion, I use shutter priority for action, but never aperture priority. So, my three settings are 200-800-auto for good lighting, 200-3200-auto for middling light, and 800-6400-auto for low light. This is another very good explanation by Omar, helping shooters decide. I mention my preferences to help those who might share my concern about maximizing the dual gain technology.
Very good explained! Love your style, there's always something that makes me laugh 😁
I combo Auto ISO with decent use of Auto Exposure Lock (set as a toggle button) and Exposure Compensation, and feel like I have a lot of control. Love it.
Hi Omar, Thanks for pointing out the advantages of Auto ISO. I gave it a try and I like it. One less thing to worry about.
Love the Seiko Diver!
Timely video O … the next stage of my journey is some evening shooting! Thanks mate …
Sup Omar! I love love love auto iso. I am a dad photographer so noise doesn’t really matter in any of my images. Over the years chasing kids through houses and at cloudy parks I realized light changes fast. I’d rather have the camera think about it. Happy shooting and thanks for the videos as always. 👍🏾
Really useful Omar. Thanks!
An important dimension to auto iso when it comes to Fuji is the Dynamic range protection/widening that clicks in at iso 400 and 800. In all seasons but summer I can recover the sky just by sticking to 800 even when shooting mechanical shutter.
Another consideration is whether one wants to allow super high E-shutter speeds that sometimes have unnatural colors or expose in weird ways
I started using auto iso this year... It's pretty great
I have been shooting my X100V in this configuration almost as long as I have had it. Works great, 1/125th - iso 3200, I don't even bother checking what the ISO of an image is anymore with this camera. Made some pretty large b/w portrait prints as well at 3200.
I love using noise reduction -4 and embracing the grain!
Really enjoying those Marvel statues and the great insights. I think I remember you mentioning that they are from Sideshow Collectibles. Keep it up! I've been watching since the old XT-20 days, and I am considering an upgrade to an XT-3 or XT-4. Thanks!
I bought DXO and it’s absolutely incredible how good it works in NR when using “Deep prime”. I shot files out of a 17 year old canon 5d classic and maxed the ISO, ran through DXO….amazing. It gives new life to old cameras.
I think it’s worth noting that if you know what auto ISO is gonna do, it’s not lazy. I’ve got a set of rules I follow to get my shot, if I use my camera’s auto ISO to make those exact changes it’s just like using an assistant to calculate for me.
I had the impression that bumping ISO was the same that fixing exposure in post processing. So if I need specific shutters speeds and/or lens opening, I just do it and then try to fix it in Capture One, or even in thr in camera editing options. I would be curious on comparisons between both approaches.
BTW, DxO PhotoLabs "DeepPrime" noise reduction is very good as well!
It can integrate with LightRoom I believe, and you can also export from DxO as DNG and then take that into CaptureOne or other processors.
Great video...isn't it fun to try new things? Keeps life interesting. 🙃 When you were talking about high iso and noise, couldn't help thinking of the used Rolleiflex twin lens my folks got me in high school and using Tri-X 400 pushed to 1200 iso which was a common tactic for no flash low light ... you just accepted the grain to get the shots. Then again, grain on that film was pretty small so kind of added to the ambience of the photo, if that makes sense.
As an aside, the other film folks commonly pushed was Ektachrome 160 slide film pushed to 400 iso; here the change wasn't grain but color ... at 160 it was too blue, but at 400 it looked great. As always, these were personal preferences.
Hi Omar, why don't you use auto min shutter speed setting for your Auto1 scenario (no moving objects)? Then the camera adjusts min shutter speed to the focal lenght of a lens used basing either on the info from the lens itself (the ones with electronic contacts) or the focal length dialled in in the menu (manual lenses). So 1/52 for 35 f2 or 1/18 for your Samyang 12 f2. It ignores, if the OIS/IBIS is turned on or off unfortunatelly.
Dude! It's about time! I love Auto ISO. I'm never worried about FUJIFILM's noise cause it is so grain and filmic like.
My ISO range is 200-12,800. And to be honest, NR @ 0 is good enough. FYI my body is X-H1 with mainly F2 WR lenses.
That’s a peculiar way to look at auto iso....is more of a custom P, somewhere between P and aperture priority with set limits.
The beauty of auto iso is to leave the camera in M, set your aperture and shutter speed as you want for the shot and let the camera choose the iso, same rule applies for maximum high iso limit, then if at the limit you can choose if open wider or shoot slower.
Final tip: get to know your camera sensor type and capabilities, with modern sensors, back illuminated, iso invariant etc. is quite often recommend to add a -2 stops exposure compensation.
Been wondering who you reminded me of.. and you're defo Alan from Smiling Friends! Your voice, expressions, gestures, the loong fingers haha.. the down to the smallest detail attitude. Great videos thanks!
Manual SS and aperture with Auto ISO is the way to go.
Once you know what SS and aperture you need, you can dial in ISO with exposure compensation or let the camera nail the exposure for you by setting the ISO.
would love to hear how you liked being in auto ISO while roaming the streets. did you find metering to be accurate? are you typically doing spot metering or more of a matrix mode when running and gunning with the auto iso?
I’m curious if you have tried DXO Pro Raw as a plug-in for Fujifilm RAF files with Lightroom for high iso images in comparison to Topaz DeNoise. Great content! Thank you!
i'm currently using canon rp and used auto iso both photo and video but i put limit on range of 6400. that's the highest usable iso on my taste. on higher end cameras you can go higher which is really good for low light conditions.
on my fuji X-H1, n the Auto 1 section I keep having trouble with my min. shutter speed. I set the Min. Shutter to 1/80 but the camera is still defaulting to using very low shutter speeds like 1/3 or 1/5.???
I have both dials set to "A" and I set my lens to f2.8.? any advise?
For me it's not the noise that is the worst of high ISO. It's the lack of color depth. But no one seems to talk about that..
If you choose auto for min shutter speed the camera will read lens data and focal length and use and decent shutter speed, normally double focal length until it can't expose properly.Only time I set one up completely is when I need an extra fast shutter speed. Having the min shutter speed set to auto is handy if swapping out lenses regularly especially if focal length change is vast.
Exactly my fuji settings! My nikon settings are a little more conservative because the gear weighs moreI hope in the next video you reach the 140k subscribers (all the way up to better well deserved figures). Thanks again.
I’d like a bona fide auto-iso in _manual mode_ where I manually select aperture and SS and the camera chooses the appropriate ISO. (I do boxing photography where you deal with the worst of both worlds- freezing action in poor lighting) Do you know if the xt30 can be used that way?
Thanks for the sweet tutorial!
Nice video Omar. Since switching from Nikon to Fuji I can’t figure out how to get my Fuji ‘s to show the calculated iso when half pressing the shutter when in auto iso mode. You showed it in your xt-2 in your video, pal2tech did also, does anyone know why mine doesn’t show? I have to take a photo and review the photo to see what iso the camera is choosing. When shooting sports events I often ride the shutter but I want to know roughly where I am in my iso range so I can adjust shutter up or down accordingly. This is driving me nuts!
I adjusted the three settings to one very low shutter speed, one medium and the last on 1/500, as well. But because Fujis don't obey with shutter speed limit I put highest ISO in any case on 12800. I rather want a high ISO shot than a blurry one.
Being an old film guy, I died and went to heaven when cameras got so good managing noise/grain picture quality. All I had to do was find what I could tolerate with the top end of ISO. I set the camera to that limit. When I got my used x100t, I set up 1) my high auto ISO custom setting (low light and action), 2) my normal auto one, and my 3) high quality mode. I have B&W and color choices in these modes. Normal operation is set high enough on auto ISO that I can go manual with shutter and aperture and still know that the ISO will be taken care of. It’s very freeing.
I kept hearing that people eschewed auto ISO, and I didn’t understand it - the way I do it, I’m controlling the technology to serve my practical artistic goals.
thanks for this. Could I ask you to elaborate on two things I don't understand: (1) by "B&W and color choices in these modes" do you mean that you manuall adjust your max iso or other Auto ISO parameters for B/W or Color, or are you getting the camera to save sets of Auto ISO presets? And how to you adjust them? I assume you're happier with more noise in B/W? and (2) what do you mean by "Normal operation is set high enough on auto ISO...."? Does that just mean that you try to give the max ISO number plenty high so that you will rarely ever get an underexposed image, even when you're taking manual control of shutter and aperture? thx.
@@ScotBecker 1) in my custom set ups I can choose several set ups. I also can choose some auto iso range options. I think there are 7 custom set ups. I choose a large iso range where I don’t mind the grain look and I need the speed. I choose B&W in another custom setting with a smaller auto iso range to get less grain. I usually choose high contrast in the one with lower grain. These are just my tastes. You can adjust your custom setting in the fly within the Q menu for your current situation - just go to the parameters in Q and adjust. When shooting, I usually stick to some everyday modes and only change my ap and shutter speed for shooting - rarely change a custom setting in Q. Just use Q to pick my Custom choice for the situation.
And, (2) yes, that’s right, the normal setting is a middling range, good for most shots where you aren’t going for super high quality, or concerned about light gathering or motion.
The other considerations are flash and compensation. I like to take advantage on the on board leaf shutter to add fill light but I usually compensate the flash. I have that set up in the circular quick access around the menu button on my x100t. In order my set up for that quick access is macro on-off on top, timers on the right, flash options on the bottom, and flash compensation on the left. There really is a tremendous amount of controls and ways to work quickly to make your creative choice.
I really don’t want to get into using the camera’s many functions and controls but I hope this helps. You really must study the situation and work with it for a while to figure out your modes and tolerance for complexity. 😃
Thanks for this video.
I don't even have Fuji camera. I don't even have a mirrorless. And, I don't even shoot that much. But I'm still love watching your videos. Your photo examples for each words you explained are awesome. Always learning something from your videos.
Thank you very much
I have to say that I too am embracing auto ISO for certain things. I used to avoid it, but most modern cameras are pretty good about both high ISO noise performance and keeping it as low as possible and not jacking it up more than is necessary. The two primary scenarios I find I use it for is wildlife and sports and probably street photography (for everything else, which is pretty much travel, landscape and portraiture) I like to set it manually -- especially landscape and portraiture because I'm trying to go for the cleanest image possible whereas with things like street and sports/wildlife, as Jay Maisel would say "I'm more worried about PICTURE quality than PIXEL quality " (meaning I'd rather get a "sharp" picture with something frozen and crisp, but with perhaps a little noise if any, versus a blurry, but noise-free image).
Agree with your opinion mate. I am using non-Fuji pro camera and my limit is 6400. With one exception: milky way shot. I keep my max ISO at 1600 and opt for longer shutter speed (close to 30s). Otherwise the noise can mix with the stars. Like you, I also switch off my noise reduction, I am more comfortable dealing with the noise in post-pro rather than allowing my camera automatically fixing it. I tried shooting a dark sky with ISO 12800 and that's an experience I don't want to repeat. I manage to clean up the noise in post tho, but I don't want to repeat it again. I choose to play safe, 1600-6400 is my worry free max ISO zone.
This feature took me a while to trust, but today, I couldn't imagine not using it.
If the light goes low, I would just increase the ISO anyway, but in a hurry or quick changing conditions I could get so involved in composing that I might not have noticed that I entered a non-hand holdable shutter speed. AUTO-ISO allows me to just get on with shooting.
Also, Fujifilm allows you to set up and use three AUTO-ISO settings. I have mine based on the lens, using the focal length to determine the longest shutter speed that would not induce camera shake. 16mm doesn't require the same shutter speed as the 56mm.
One thing... if you are trying for an effect like blurred water, make sure to go back to a low manual ISO. I forgot about this, stopped my lens down and couldn't figure out why the water was crisp and sharp, not creamy and smooth.... duh!
I find that the metering mode can be very important. For photosensitive folks (autism spectrum and stuff) I often have a limited window to get a shot where I can get a good angle on the face, which will probably be in shadow (for good reason of their comfort). Ae-L can be a boon
I’m super happy with DxO’s DeepPrime. According to me it delivers even better results than Topaz Denoise AI. Since using it, the weakest point in my night photos is the autofocus which struggles to find the focus point.
I normally limit to 3200 for jpegs and 6400 for raw. It also depends on which film recipe I use. Kodak Ektra requires a cap of 1600 for instance.
I normally keep my shutter at a minimum of 1/60s. I shoot normally between 18-56mm
Excellent video but I also wanted to say that I love the photo of the woman on the rainy street. Beautiful.
@ogonzilla ok question I use an Xpro 3 and 35 mm lens (Fuji) but when I set the Auto ISO basically the same as you, 1st the halfway down shutter doesn't show me the correct ISO metering 2nd the shutter speed stays when turning the Aperture ring, so no change there as well? Been searching for some answers but have had no luck so far. you have an Xpro 3 as well I believe, there may be a difference or some setting that needs to be different to function this way.
Have a great day, cheers
Daniel
In my opinion, Canon's ISO Shift > any other ISO setting on a camera. It allows you to set a more strict setting, based off a minimal shutter speed and a maximum aperture configured in camera. As an example, I can set a forced minimal 1/60 shutter speed, maximum f/5.6 aperture, then set the ISO range from 50-12800. Then pop the camera in Program mode. The camera will never choose a shutter speed lower than 1/60, an aperture that will never go smaller than f/5.6 (f/8, f/11, f/16, etc.), and then at time of exposure, it will choose the absolute minimal ISO speed based off those parameters for correct exposure. It's basically manual Auto ISO control and also works great with shutter and aperture priority. I wish my Fuji's could do this.
Hi Omar! I swear every time you post a video about something new that you’re doing it just happens to be something that I am playing around with as well! Last year I started using auto ISO because I was doing a lot of wildlife shots. I actually ended up embracing it for pretty much everything except landscape shots. It’s really liberating!
Thanks for running through your set up and for the software tips as well.
I love auto iso on my fujis, lets me concentrate on the picture.
Good discussion. For me, auto iso is very helpful for action shots. Otherwise, not so much. Also, the usable iso varies between cameras.
Great tips! Thanks!
Hey dammit Omar, I subscribed long ago AND I like your videos 😎
is this applicable to all fujifilm x series too? coz i have an xt100 and would love to switch to auto ISO like you. tyia!
Auto ISO at 12800 is a no brainer, it is always better to have any kind of photo than miss a shot, no matter the noise. :)
You're right! Especially getting a sharp image (regarding camera shake or subject movement) at higher ISO than a blurry one at lower ISO...
After a year of doing that, I've now set my Auto ISO max to 6400 or even 3200. Even though you're right (better to have a photo than a missed one), I usually can't bring myself to enjoy a photo at 12800 or even 6400. I was too often getting high ISO shots when I didn't need to, because I had left the camera on a min shutter speed that was higher than I needed. Basically the number of my needlessly-high-ISO non-keepers was far more than my shutter-speed-too-slow non-keepers.
@@ScotBecker It all depends on your workflow and what type of photography you do, I usually set the SS to auto and ISO to auto with the max setting at 12800, also I set the SS inside auto ISO to auto as well, and this always creates good results, the camera never goes high ISO if it is not needed. I never experienced any unwanted behaviour with the Fuji auto ISO.
As for enjoying high ISO photos, this is just a technical thing which I see as well, however this is not important to me personally because shooting in those situations often means that I run with my kids and at that point it is much more important to take the shot than miss the important moment. When I do something professionally I control most of the things so ISO higher than 3200 is rarely used. Even when doing photography or videography for work I never had any complaint about the high ISO noise, regular humans do not see it actually.
@@ScotBecker Have you tried Topaz' products? They really are a game changer.
I never used auto iso on my Nikon D500 because it seemed to really reduce the burst shooting capabilities. With my X-T3 I have auto-iso on probably 95% of the time.
Omar,
First, let me say thank you for everything, and I mean everything, you post. I could literally watch you talk about gardening all day, and I hate gardening. You are a wealth of information and joy to watch.
All the smoochy smoochy aside now, I noticed something while tinkering with this auto ISO on my X-T4 that I didn’t catch in your video. You show, and I experienced, that the display of “ISOA” on the screen always shows the maximum value of the setting you’ve chosen until you half press the shutter. When half pressed the ISO number will change to show you what the camera is choosing as the ISO value before you take the shot. This is true whether you have the half press disabled for focus or not. However, if you use back button focus, that ISO number doesn’t change at all. Is that a bug you think? Is it something that isn’t really needed and I’m being a little nit-picky? I’m still learning my Fujifilm camera, which I love in every single way, but this seems odd to me that if I back button focus, but want to see what the ISO value the camera has then chosen for the shot prior to taking it, that I then also have to half press the shutter. I dunno, prolly just me :)
Thanks again, keep up the great work!
Hey, that's not a bug and very logical if you see it this way:
- shutter button is (originally intended) for exposure and if you half press the cam tells you the exposure reading/values (i.e. what it would use if you take the exposure)
- focusing has nothing to do with exposure (and hence doesn't take/show exposure reading/values)
- focusing can be done either with half press on shutter or back button
One could argue if the display should show the ISOA setting or the current ISO value (like done for A and SS as well when any on Auto) but I am pretty sure it shows the setting because not all (Fuji) cameras do have a dedicated ISO dial, i.e. the user can't quickly see what ISO is set to.
Note: Most (Fuji) cameras also have a AEL (Auto Exposure Lock) button/setting. This then reads/locks/shows the exposure (i.e. what you wanted the focus button to do ;-)).
Love auto ISO when I’m taking general picts. I pay more attention to the shutter speed and keep the lens wide open-ish
Basic question about Topaz Denoise and their other products: are they only useable with RAW files or can they be used on JGEPs, as well?
You confused me at first when you said to use auto ISO and aperture priority mode. Then I saw that you meant on your Fugi camera that has an ISO dial on the top. I have a z6 II so I don't have the dial on top. I will occasionally use auto ISO in manual mode when I need to control the aperture and the shutter. This really comes in handy for panning shots when you need a specific shutter speed and aperture but the light is changing while you pan. You don't have time to change the ISO. When I shoot in aperture or shutter priority mode the camera will automatically select the ISO. I do need to go in and set limits.
would you recomend to set the Exposure comp to minus one stop or just set at 0.
Why did Fuji tap out at 1/500 SS do you think? Would have loved to use auto ISO in a waterhousing for surf photography, but need to "prefer" 1/800 or 1/1000.
My main use case for auto ISO is bird photography, for which I set shutter speed and aperture manually. Light conditions change unpredictably as you can't tell the birds where to go. Otherwise, I almost always shoot fully manually.
I'd be interested to hear your take on this subject with the Nikon Z6II. I have a hard time trusting Nikon's metering, especially since the exposure likes to jump around so much. This is one of my biggest gripes with the camera. I really should spend some more time in the menu tweaking the metering settings to see if I can get more reliable performance.
In Z6ii, in manual mode you can set the iso to auto and set the maximum value so that you have full control on Aperture and shutter speed and iso is set automatically within the range you have set. I use it often when shooting kids or birds where I need to change the shutter speed as per the subject speed and looks to be working fine.
Hi Omar! but you can't block the minimum shutter speed. I install the SS at 1/80 in low light situations, the machine will still keeps lowers values, so what's the point of setting it ?
Rely on this heavily. I often have to shoot low-light stage action for b&w. Auto ISO at 1/250/f2.8-4 is standard. Results are 3200 to 12,800 (X-t3). The RAWs are phenomenal - the color jpegs, with a little tweaking, are useful in that the RAWs are rough to use for sorting, eliminating, selecting, etc.
It just so happens that what you are describing is actually a problem I am trying to resolve for a photo shoot this weekend. Full disclosure: this is my first paid photo shoot! I will be taking pictures at a dance recital on stage. The stage is sort of well lit, but my position to take the shots will require me to use a zoom lens between 70 and 100mm range. No other lighting will be used. I will be using the XT4 with the 70-300 and possibly the 16-80. I am trying to decide if I should shuttle priority, and let ISO be auto. I also need some advice about how to capture as many kids faces in focus from that distance. Only shots of the entire group is necessary and they will be spread out across the length of the stage, in movement all of the time. Should face/eye auto be used? Should I set my focus area to "wide"? Should my metering mode be "multi"? Should I depend only on burst shots or should I shot single shots? Any advice would be really appreciated.
@@mstuartkendall I do this a lot - voluntarily for a local vaudeville troupe (hopefully you won't have the issue I have with flashing lights of various colors). I've tried it all. I let ISO go auto for these, use the Fuji 50-140 almost exclusively from the back, near center aisle. 1/250 best speed compromise, and f.2.8 usually. I rely heavily on burst, at 5.5 frames a second. Lots of images to sort thru. There a number of AI converters - I sort, eliminate garbage, put jpeg/raw combos into my catalog - export my selected RAW and in DXO Raw converter (I have it in Photolab 5 but the converter is all that is needed), exporting to DNG RAW (Adobe RAW format). An absolutely necessary step with Fuji RAW high iso. Then they can be opened anywhere, I do use Photoshop. Used to use face/eye, but only works right if only one performer is on stage, otherwise a pain. Spot and center metering tend to be pretty bad, Multi usually ok. Good luck on focus area, a crap shoot. Examples in my Rogue Swan section on web site/blog (I'm sure I can't put a link here, but if you add a Dotcom to jamescraigphotography, it will take you there. Shoot, lots, lots, lots. I plug the camera into the outlet behind me. Torture sorting through 1000 shots to keep 100. OH, I have used the 55-200, again wide open, on rare occasions when the light is a tad better - closer zooming available. Again, jpgs are not so great. Good luck…
@@mstuartkendall What I do for a local Vaudeville troupe (volunteer work for Rogue Swan) is shoot from the back with 50-140, wide open. Multi is best. Auto face/eye just nets confusion. Lots of 5.5 shots sec bursts, lots of shots. Full stage shots don't usually turn out so good, but needed. Focus area is a crap shoot. Big thing is to convert the Fuji RAW to dng RAW in DXO or another AI - Omar is right, the RAWs work out great. No priority, just lock on 1/250 and shoot wide open with auto iso. Good luck.
Your Exp Comp wheel is like 2.5 stop over and that drives me nuts! lol
auto iso is the way yo, I set it to my back dial. 2nd one is keeping it low, good light condition, first one is slightly worst, third one is sky is the limit, depending on the situation one click either way you in the right iso range.
Thank you.
Actually you can set your shutter speed manually and still use auto ISO (for example, for sports). The minimum SS of the auto ISO will be ignored (choose your SS instead) and it will work as every traditional auto ISO setting. Have a great day 😉
I kinda live by, taking a sharp image with a lot of noise is better than a blurry image, and both are better than not shooting at all. You never know what kind of noise reduction software is going to be available in the future.
I did start using auto but stopped my camera seemed to pick the highest iso most of the time for the easier shot i will try it again in bad light perhaps another excellent video Omar
If that happens, you either have a minimum shutter speed set too high, or your metering needs adjustment. When one shoots auto iso it is critical to define the minimum shutter speed, and then monitor the exposure (and compensate accordingly). It is not like letting the camera drive everything...
With most camera sensors becoming dual-native ISO, it would be nice if a camera could auto-select the optimal of the 2, and settings in between. At daytime and conditions with lots of light, I don't mind auto-ISO. In low light, I always switch it off, as manually you can find a better optimum with aperture and shutter speed which is subject dependent.
Thanks!
I've been using auto ISO as pseudo presets for my X-T30: indoor, outdoor and 'kids in motion'.
Tienes la compensación de exposición en -1 creo. Saludos.
Cool. I currently have two solutions that don't require much ISO thought. The first uses an old full-frame DSLR, and the 2nd uses these little cartridges to go into the camera each time I want a different ISO. :)
@@djstuc True, but the 2nd solution target actually might resemble a DSLR in appearance.
I have been trying to get used to auto ISO, and it has made things more difficult 😂 Probably because I spent so much time learning how to get my exposure manually... I wish Fujifilm would make a really cheap rangefinder style camera that only shoots RAW and has no auto settings (except auto focus). They could even drop the screen on the back, and do everything through a good, big EVF. It would be my dream camera!
The jpeg stuff is fun, but more often than not, I want to retouch the photos anyway, so I might as well just shoot RAW, and go straight to Capture One.
Shutter speed is more important to get the shot, so that will always dictate my iso setting, which is why I am always in auto iso. My shutter speed and aperture is always being adjusted depending on the shooting conditions and the result I want and I let the camera take care of the rest.
Have you ever checked out DXO PureRaw? It also does a really good job cleaning up grain and distortion on images, and it's tuned for each camera and lens (assuming your file has the lens metadata).
Curious did you mean to have your default compensation at around -1?
Hi Omar is there any way to reset my xt2 to factory excluding dials?
For what it's worth, I notice when shooting Auto ISO on my Sony A7IV that there's a noticeable drop in camera performance.
(can't get as many frames per second in burst mode, and the view finder starts to lag as well)
Whaaaa!? Xt2? You liiiiikkke? 😉Finally poor neglected baby getting some love 😂
Xt2 was my first Fujifilm camera that I got last summer and I love it muchly !!🙌🏻. How ever I was gifted a x100 V for my birthday last month and it’s lit 🔥
I love it!