DIY Sheet Goods Cutting System that is better than a Track Saw System?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มี.ค. 2017
- If you're like most woodworkers, cutting plywood sheets is one of the most dreaded jobs. In this video, I'm going to show you how to build a sheet goods cutting system that can be made from plywood scraps and give you a similar quality and accuracy of a track saw.
Tools Used in Video:
Kreg Clamp: amzn.to/2nrgEcz (USA)
Festool Track Saw: amzn.to/2nkIXIL (USA)
Dewalt 20V Circular Saw: amzn.to/2nn9d50 (USA)
Diablo 6 - 1/2" Saw Blade: homedepot.sjv.io/eWrn6
Flat Head 8X1-5/8" Screws: shrsl.com/h7y8
Website:
www.woodworkingexplained.com
Blog:
goo.gl/Is5RJh
Links provided are Amazon Affiliate links.
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I have in the past made a mini version for docking framing timber on the saw horses . Worked really well . You have super sized my idea.
Great saw especially th-cam.com/users/postUgkxxnKxcY0vm4xjW8xkPbjaHuKt10gr-wG_ considering how drastically cheaper it is than every other track saw on the market. Only things I would mention is replace the blade immediately, the 24 tooth blade supplied leaves a lot to be desired.
Very well done young man. I really like the way you talk to the audience instead of down to them. I saved the video to make this so I can cut sheet goods. Being old and disabled, anything that helps is a plus!
I'm glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for taking to the time to share your words of encouragement.
Simple on the surface, but a lot of thought underneath explained very clearly. Thanks!
Very well explain. Well spoken young man . I’ll make my saw guide just as shown.
Thanks mate, a very nice and easy to follow step by step guide to make a track saw for those that can't afford expensive manufacturer guides, thanks for sharing this neat advice!
Yes, but this isn't a track, is it. It's a fence so you must keep applying constant pressure to the side (unlike with a proper track system) in order to maintain a straight cut. I, a newbie, have ruined many cuts because I was too conservative with how much force I was applying.
First track guide video I've seen that didn't require a table saw to start with. Thanks for that.
It did! and a chop-saw!!
At 1.40
no shit. finally, somebody else noticed that.
That's a cool guide.
I started using a steel demon blade recently because it was the only new blade I had, and it did cross cuts beautifully! If you look at the teeth, I think it's a tripple chip.
I'm making one of these guides, I hate doing plywood cut off with my little table saw.
You have done an excellent job of explaining and walking people thru it from start to finish.
I am a professional carpenter and business owner of forty plus years and this is the exact same sheet goods guide I both use and supplied to all of my crews until I retired three years ago. I watch other woodworkers videos because we just never know where a person can learn something new.
That's awesome! Thanks for the taking to time to share your experience using this system.
see my Parallel Guided Power Saw
I like that you added the square so that setting up a cut is quick and easy. Although it's not a full blown track saw design as long as you use the saw properly it will cut just as good.
I eliminate tear out by cutting into a board underneath the cut piece. Works great for cabinetry work where quality is a must.
Great video and information for anyone on a shop budget You can always add painters tape to the line you are cutting to avoid chip-out.
Good video, good narration and no annoying music, well done.
This is exactly what I needed. Thanks!!
Nice and simple, effective and very useful, many thanks.
Some really useful information in here. Much thanks to you.
Great video. Going to go build mine now.
This is a good idea and a good video. I am going to make a similar saw guide. I have three suggestions. First, the blade guard can be made effective if you cut a wider slot in the back half of the sole plate. This will allow the guard to drop down. It is only the front half of the sole plate that acts as a zero clearance plate. Second, cover your cut line with masking tape. That will reduce chipping significantly. Third, make a first scoring cut with the blade clearance set to only 1/16 th. of an inch and then go back and make the full depth cut. This mimics the industrial table saws that have a small scoring blade ahead of the main blade. I've found with the really thin veneers these days these steps will virtually eliminate tear out.
see my Parallel Guided Power Saw
Beautifully explained, thank you for posting such a clear, concise and informative video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Clearly explained, awesome
Probably the best explanation and guide I’ve seen. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I like it. With this jig you could score the grain with a knife, move the jig to the score, and cut chip free. A couple of on-the-job workarounds: Make a shallow 1/8" deep chip free pass across veneer. Drop saw all the way down for second pass to cut bottom chip free as well. If only one side of the sheet will show in the finished project, cut it upside-down.
Brilliant 👍🏻 Thanks for sharing!
The chip out from the cut can be reduced significantly by placing a masking tape or painters tape before drawing the line for the cut...i learnt it from one of the you tube videos and tried...it worked very well.
Excellent video Sir , thank you very much 🇺🇸🇬🇧
Thanks for sharing I have the same saw and have been thinking about making one of these.
Thank you for watching. It's definitely a cheaper alternative to a track saw system and is a great way to utilize a cordless circular saw (i.e. no cords getting snagged on the plywood).
I made a track-guide similar to this years ago. It works great, no it works perfectly, I did pick-up a new trick from your video. I need to double up the edge guide. So I don’t have to worry about cutting through the existing edge guide.
Very cool!
great job on the explanation
very good idea and very good video that's for posting from Garry in the UK
Very well done - thorough instructions. I’d probably through-bolt the joint some way to keep it adjustable so you can re-square it should you drop it etc.
That's a great idea. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Really great teaching. Thank you.
Nice video and jig. More teeth per inch is what eliminates tear out. I use a 60 tooth carbide blade for my 7-1/4" Dewalt circular saw, and even in oak, I have NO TEAR OUT. You can score just through the top by setting your blade to only cut 1/8 inch deep after the track is set and clamped. Then set full depth and make a second pass. Tear out happens where the tooth is cutting up on the wood, and can chip, but does not happen when cutting down. Commercial table saws, have 2 blades that are a matched set. One turns backward to the other and scores the sheet, and the second turns the regular way and cuts through. The one I used had a 5-1/2" blade, reversed to a 14" blade. There is a left to right adjustment on the 5-1/2" blade, to make sure the score is perfectly aligned to the 14" blade. This is really necessary for Mica board. But I found that the 60 tooth blade eliminates that step for wood products on 7-1/4" saws. Additionally, gluing a piece of laminate, (1/32") to that bottom of that plate you made for the saw shoe, will make it slide easier, and it will be much stronger. I am retired and trying to pass on some tips. I hope it doesn't come off any other way than trying to help.
I have always used a similar jig or saw sled. I over-cut the width by 1/4"+/- to ensure that it is easier to handle once it is placed on the table saw for a more accurate cut.
Thank you, adding this track to my play box.
Very good simple and easy to use
Great idea! Thank you for the video. I think I will make a few of various lengths for different size needs. ;)
Good job on the cutting system. Cutting sheet goods can be a problem and a safety issue. I used a similar idea but used an aluminum drywall square. I bolted/screwed a small (6X6in) piece of quarter inch plywood to the left leg of of the T of a drywall square. This small square creates a clamping surface and keeps the square from flopping over when getting ready to cut. Lastly I had to create the alignment reference edge for the saw setback where my circular saw was going to cut. I clamped the square to an old piece of plywood and ran the shoe of the circular saw along the long leg of the tee cutting off the right leg of the T square creating the saw setback or reference edge. This cut edge became the alignment point to which the drywall square would be placed on the mark of future sheet goods to be cut. I use spring clamps to attach both ends of the square to the sheet goods. For tear out prevention I just place painters tape on the cut line prior to making the cut. works great!
It's a really useful idea
Thanks for posting. I like your method of squaring your jig.
Great idea! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching and providing some positive feedback. I'm glad you found it useful.
I have been using a similar gig. is like a 4. 90° is about 50 in long and I used every time to cut without using my benchbsaw
Great info, thanks!
I liked your video a lot. Please slow down in explanations . You did a great job with a limited time frame. thanks again for helping me do this task.
Perfect system you have here, cheap, easy, fast. If you want to avoid chip just run a length of masking tape along the cut area.
see my Parallel Guided Power Saw
Good job young man
Using a fine tooth plywood blade will eliminate tear out. I use one on all my work, excluding framing, cutting 2x4s. Great video, thank you.
That's a great point. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
Why don't you use a fine tooth blade for framing (not sure what you mean by framing) and cutting 2x4s? Won't it help with tear out there as well?
@@sethjones4916 ...Framing refers to the start building a house or building, constructing the rough walls or ceiling beams....super accuracy is not completely necessary.
@@djpapachris thanks Chris.... makes sense
@@sethjones4916 .....np..........
Great work!
Really great system
Nice Job!!
Awesome video!
Great stuff👍❤
great video,great information
thanks it's best idea I have seen
Hi mate, I thought you did a great style of presenting this- well done. With respect, may I make a suggestion. For those that don't think it possible for them to hold the saw in alignment against the one guide rail, you can simply add another guide rail to retain the other side of the saw plate in place between the two guide rails. This has the added benefit that the guide is now 4 sided (ie. stronger, two main saw rails screwed to two side guides) and the saw runs in between the two main guide rails. No more saw twisting or struggling to keep the saw in alignment against just one rail. Still only need to clamp just one rail. Make guide rails long enough to fit a little wider than standard size sheets. This way you can make the saw rails of smaller dimensions from hardwood instead of ply if you want too.
Great idea! Thanks for sharing your suggestion.
I made a similar device a few years back. Instead of adding another guide rail, I put arms on the saw base, to extend it over the guide, ploughed a groove in the guide, and ran a key in the groove.
see my Parallel Guided Power Saw
Clever, thanks !!
Thumbs up has been added :)
Great video
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Great info , track saws are way too expensive for my needs. Excellent alternative
You can buy the Shopfox tracksaw for ~200$ Canadian (160 US?), and the tracks are an extra 80$ Canadian... That's pretty cheap and it works great for me - super clean smooth cuts - the edges are much better than using a standard circular saw.
Agreed way too expensive but what he made was nowhere close to being better than a track saw.
Excelent !!
Hey brother you can actually just use a drywall square lol. I used that for both perfecr straight and square cuts for many years until i frankensteined it onto one of my track saw tracks to give me quick 90 track saw cuts
Thanks 🙏
Great video, a simple and easy to make jig. At 1:45 of the video, would you explain the reason why you left an offset of 1/16" (1.5mm)?
When gluing two flat pieces of plywood together, it tends to not be the same on each edge. The two together gives strength... however, one was only needed for the 90 degree reference. So, making the reference piece touch your sheet of plywood to be cut would provide the best edge every cut.
I have been having a hard time (over the years) cutting an exact straight board especially if it's about 6 feet or longer. It never comes out exact. The longer the piece the more I dread it. I guess if you are building a frame for a house an 1/8 off won't matter because it's all concealed. But dam I am going to build this and see if I get more accuracy. Thanks.
Great idea, thanks for sharing. I would be tempted to glue the joint between the edge guide and the fence to improve stability and help keep it square. Is there any reason why I shouldn't do this? Thanks again for a well presented video sharing your idea.
+Danny Boy Great question. The only reason I didn't use glue was for adjustability and replacement. If you goof and cut all the way through the edge guide, which I did, then you can easliy replace it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I thought the same thing, but good explanation as to why you didn’t do it.
Danny Boy
There are easier or more simple jigs to do this but I like your idea for more precise cuts. Nice video
Tq sharing
Outstanding video. Simple project to save a ton of time 👮☕️🍩🇺🇸
Hey! I used to work where the panel saw @ 0:14 is built!
Awesome
Nice video, I'm going to be making a panel rack, it will include your zero clearance base now that I've seen it.
Estupendo muy útil gracias
Nice!!!
U, really genius
Why was it necessary to add a second sole plate?
you can take it a step further to remove splintering by creating a two tiered guide - so you run your saw up on top of the guide which has its own fence, that way the saw blade can run right next to the guide, reducing splintering.
see my Parallel Guided Power Saw
hi, sorry i don´t speak very well english, i hope you understand my doubt, first you made one cut in the edge guide, one tooth depth. the part i don´t understad is when i cut the entire depth of a sheet of plywood, that cut in the guide is going to change the depth? i mean the same depth of the plywood sheet. thanks a lot
By having the good side of plywood down n bad side up, the tear out will be less noticeable
A trick I learned from a few old timers: rip a piece of ply (factory edge) 100mm or so, for your guide. Rip another at 200mm for your base plate. Glue and screw together. Run your saw along the guide to cut your base plate to the same size as your saw's base plate. EZ
This is the best method. I've done it myself. I use 1/4 ply and it's perfect.
Same system I’ve you’d for years ,quick simple and accurate,can make a board on site from scraps
I don't get it... Got a link?
Robert Ye cosmas baur making a saw guide
@@johnhealy9231 oh my God, thank you so much! Why didn't I think of that! I bought an ozito track saw for &185aud and it's cheap Chinese junk that I have to throw in the bin, it is terrible. Now I can buy a cheaper high quality circular saw and make the track as you've shown for a great setup!
alot of people use similar method to this. Its cheap and only as accurate as you are to keep the saw against the fence. Track saws lock into a track.
In my previous comment re; using a fine tooth blade to avoid tear out - I meant to say " INCLUDING " framing and 2x4s .
The plywood blade will be dull in 3" of a cut on oak. (I cut a substantial amount of solid oak, and oak plywood). You are on the right track, and for general plywood it is great. I use a 60 tooth carbide on my 7-1/4" saw, and there is no tear out even on solid oak, or oak plywood.
The 1st cut you make it one tooth deep. So when you actually use the system do you make sure the short piece of your guide is way thicker than the maximum depth cut of your saw? Otherwise if you cut thick board with it wont you cut off the short piece? Or do you do some sort of plunge cut at the start?
Good question. If you plan on cutting boards thicker than 3/4", Then I'd suggest adding additional boards to the edge guide. For instance, if you were to cut a 2 x 4, which is 1.5" thick, then the edge guide would need a total of three 3/4" boards (3*0.75" = 2.25"). Hope that answers your question.
Yeah, thanks. That makes sense. Great vid, might knock one up this weekend!
Mostly, this jig is to rip most common thickness plywood in manageable sizes so if you want to use for thicker material, obviously of course, you "add" more to the edge guide.
Great video... is the zero tolerance plate needed so it rides against the guide vs the saw base plate?
That is correct
Nice job. Did you make a longe jig for rip cuts on the long side of plywood, or do you still use your Festool?
I've found this jig is most accurate when making cross cuts. If I need to make rip cuts on a full sheet, I use my table saw or Festool track saw. Thanks for the question.
The only thing i would do different is I would make the track 9' long and route out two groves at the opposite end where I would add another guide that could be adjusted from 8' down to 4' so I could use the same guide to cut different lengths of plywood and have it be it's own clamp.
That's a great idea. It would be nice to cut up to 8'. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Good suggestion! :D
How does this not just cut straight the guide piece of plywood?
For both the track saw and your guide, placing masking tape over the cut line will eliminate 95% of the chip out
That's a great suggestion! Thanks for the advice.
I agree, but the real trick is to then use a decorating paper roller to press the masking tape firmly to the board for maximum adhesion and in addition a double thickness of tape (also rollered) can make a slight additional improvement. This is especially true when cutting laminate worktops (tape BOTH sides of the cut even when cutting up through the top surface). The tape also makes marking your cut line easier.
Keep in mind that the saw’s blade guard is ineffective with the zero clearance plate in place.
Rick M cfb
Any more videos u goin to share with us mate
I've got a couple in the works, so stay tuned. Thanks for watching.
Why is a sole plate essential?
Fortunately my circular saw (Bosch GKS 18V-Li) supports tracks, so I just bought a couple of those instead (FSN 70 and FSN 140, 70cm and 140cm respectively). :)
That's a great option to have. Thanks for watching and commenting.
a track saw prevents the saw from moving laterally in either direction. your jig prevents it from moving laterally in only one direction. so your jig is, at best, about half as good as a track saw. I mean come on. what do you think might happen to your cut when you do that texas two-step around the corner at 5:22??
Evidently you are a puny , weak, limp wristed little guy who doesn't have the strength and knowhow to hold the saw firmly against the guide as you cut. I would suggest you stick to flower arranging and leave woodworking to the adults.
@@OldDunollieman Oh, now don't be so restrained, just say what you mean! Just had the best laugh for a long time, thanks for replying, (still chuckling).
If you want a cleaner cut replace the all purpose blade with a plywood blade. The small teeth on a plywood blade make less tearout than other blades.
Is this jump street 101?
🙏
with sheets that have high quality wood skin a tip to avoid tear out is to do a a pass with very shallow depth of cut, the thickness of the veneer or even less to pre score it, then repeat the cut at full depth, with the blade only protruding half teeth from the inferior face of the sheet.
it is even better to do the first cut backwards, thing that for a full depth cut would have been extremely dangerous, but can be safely done if cutting very slow and with that very shallow depth of cut.
it works better then the 0 clearance plate, i never saw a 0 clearance plate work for real, both shop made ones made of wood/plywood and ones made of some plastics.
the cut backwards works as the counter rotating blade that scores the sheet surface on high quality professional table saws and if coupled with a dedicated and sharp blade designed for plywood give the same result that you can get on those professional machines that can cost more then 10K $ with a relatively cheap hand held circular saw and with the all purpose blade of the saw can any way greatly reduce the tear out.
disclaimer: as i am talking of a cut that is done in the same direction that the torque of the motor want to push the saw who decides to do it has to do it at his own risk, if properly done is absolutely save as long as the saw is firmly controlled with 2 hands, the cut is made slowly and keeping the saw well against the jig and the depth of cut is really shallow, you have only to score the surface. but still IT IS NOT SOMETHING I SUGGEST TO AN ABSOLUTE BEGINNER, better to have at least some hours of normal use of the saw before attempting that cut, the circular saws, hand held or table saws, are among the most dangerous woodworking machines and beginners should be well aware of the possible risks and of how to minimize them.
see my Parallel Guided Power Saw
What's the point of the wood part screwed to the saw
This plate was added to reduce tear out when cross cutting plywood. It's similar to adding a zero clearance plate to a table saw.
Buy a quality clamping straight edge less than,$100 for a good one.
Mine were even cheaper than that but only came in 48" lengths. I got around that by bolting them end to end to an 8' length of plywood and precision aligned the whole length by tightly stretching some fishing line down both pieces. If the two extruded aluminum straight edges are touching along the full length it's straight. Then it was simple to make a full depth cut with the circular saw. It's as accurate or more so and far easier to use for full sized sheet goods than any table saw I could afford the room for. There were a few good ideas in the video though. Adding the 90 degree fence and partial cut line to show exactly where the blade line would align with the required cut line and the zero clearance insert were both good ideas. Since mine doesn't have the 90 degree fence my cut line from the first full depth pass does the same thing. I do have to align and clamp mine with two measured marks without that second fence. So his would be a bit quicker to use.
So you have to cut sheet goods to make a jig to cut sheet goods? Hmmmmmm interesting.
Let’s face it these cuts are normally made to make the piece you want more manageable. You can then cleanup the cut in a table saw. I’ve yet to see someone let this cut be the finished edge they want. Me I just clamp a 2x4 across the board rip it and then make final trim
Touche !
yeah... i don't have a table saw... so this is as good as it gets for me...
aampudia8
If you do a scoring cut first you'll get the cleanest possible edge. That means 2 passes for each cut. Expensive table saws have a small scoring blade in addition to the main blade.
Measure twice.. CUT ONCE! Plywood is not cheap anymore, having just priced a 3/4" birch at Home Depot, at nearly $55... I do not want to waste anything on double cuts.
@@jacobw446
Planning your work flow around saving a fraction of an inch of plywood sounds like a false economy.
Ok🤔