With Legos new push for being more environmentally friendly maybe we will see them look for alternatives that don’t leave so much waste in the form of spent batteries.
Even rechargable batteries don't last forever and still cost a lot of highly environmentally taxing stuff to make and break down. Not to mention a lot of the materials are somewhat rare and can be used for other things that cannot be simply hooked up to a grid. It's backwards thinking and frankly quite unnecessary.
As to why Lego dicthed the whole 9V/transformer system, it is believed that they considered it a safety hazard for kids, so they moved to batteries. I don't see how 9V is dangerous since you can't even feel the current most of the time, but oh well. And yes, I am a 9V fan. I wish there could be something done to create a system similar to digital H0, in which with a small circuit board and a dedicated control station you could control various trains running on 9V.
I think the main issue was with the 9V system is that it was easy to do a short circuit with the switches if somebody doesn't follow the lines correctly. And you don't need big currents to start an electric fire, a wedding literally was almost ruined a last autumn because some kind of cheap battery powered LED light's started to smoking. Luckily it was recognized in time. (The Lego battery pack have a lot of electrics and IMHO sensors to detect issues.)
It wasn’t just that, producing the metal tracks and motors were also expensive to produce. Willing to bet the move to RC was a financial one as opposed to a safety concern
@@Friggityfrag7 Exactly this. Making metal tracks is highly expensive, LEGO simply made a financial decision, screwing the consumer with inconvenience and extra costs.
I run both 9 volt on my outer loop and 12 volt, on the inner loop, systems. Love the ability to remotely switch track, decouple cars and start/stop trains in the 12 volt system, arguably the golden era of LEGO trains. Still, I think the 9 volt track is less finicky than the 12 volt track system. That and the availability of 9 volt motors makes the 9 volt system my preferred way to go. Still the 12 volt 7740 Electric Inter City Train set is THE iconic LEGO train set in my opinion.
I grew up with the 9V system always dreaming of the 12V stuff that I read about in a Lego brochure from that era. It seemed so versatile and sleek with all the compatible remote-controlled add-on systems. The 9V is of course clearly the best one from a power transmission perspective, but it never really went beyond that, as Lego went through its dumbing-down process in the 90s. About power functions I don't have any experience, but I have a PoweredUp train. My first impression was that it is a simple battery box/reciever unit. But it has the potential to be so much more. The reciever is programmable, and you can add a color sensor to it! Essentially, what you have is not a dumb train that will simply run around the track until the battery runs out. You can program the train to stop at stations, slow down in curves, or even have it run back and forth: no need to build a looping track. With additional PoweredUp boxes and motors (or third party solutions) you can also automate switches and crossings, even introduce signaling and automatic train control. It feels like there actually is a possibility to realize those childhood dreams of a 12V system. Yes batteries is a hassle, but I think the versatility of the current system actually is a big benefit. Sadly it is not at all highlighted as a possibility: they should sell the trains with a color sensor and use the educational value as an introduction to coding in their marketing.
These are some great points. While the 12V system was infinitely superior from the start, the 9V system was really simple and usable for anyone without any knowledge about systems and electricity. You simply hook it up and it works. I think the RC trains are a downgrade from a convenience, financial and environmental standpoint, but there is a ton of programmability and potential. While not something for the average LEGO builder or train enthusiast, there is a lot of room for customization for the people that really want to delve deeper into the material and automate things. Still, I would prefer a train that is just simple to build and use. I do not care about programming or hooking my phone or a computer up to my LEGO, but I can imagine a lot of people would be interested in more.
I loved the 12V system, but sadly never owned it. Lego switched to the 9V electric system when I was old enough to be alowed to play with them so I got the first starter set (grey passenger train, same as yours) for Christmas, birthday and new year combined. The most amazing part of the 12V for me was (as allready mentioned in other comments) the fact that you were able to control lots of track systems and signals together with the train, just like with model train sets: crossroads, switches, stop signs, there was even an automatic wagon seperator and street lights! I did love the play time I had with my 9V set though 🙂! If Lego does want to hold on to the 9V battery system I would suggest they step back to the original 9V system used for the monorail, and the 'lights and sounds' they used for the old rescue vehicles (Police, firefighters, ambulance) and space sets. They used the flat 9V batteries that are far more powerfull en last longer then all those 1,5V that need to be combined + I feel those batteryholders seemed to be smaller and easier to incorporate into your builds. When They switched the 12V for the 9V I thought it was for those systems to become compatible, but the vehicle 'lights and sound' just seemed to have faded away...
Yes the 12V system looked like a great system, but sadly Santa wasn’t wealthy enough to add it under the tree, I finally got the 9V system Blue train, and more recently the Grey Metro second hand. But how technology is I think Lego could easily make it again maybe even better. As for that if toys a connected to the mains it’s no longer a toy. Computer consoles anyone. They weren’t for 4 year olds but for the 8 plus crowd. I read somewhere, that a toy train set I’d defined be durability, and playable. That’s Lego to a tee. And for cost, AFOL train enthusiasts would pay, just like Star Wars fans do for the Millennium Falcon. Couldn’t they have the kids and then the 18+, these could be replicators in a way to the real deal just like the Metro and the Santa Fe were. If they did make adult train sets, just don’t forget track sets. It’s the worse thing getting a basic train set without extra tracks to make it more exciting, and build-able. I’d gladly pay, and for go things as to get not just a everyday Lego train set, but a fantastic Lego train set, and never worry about batteries again
They could come up with anything resembling the old 12V system, remade it with new programmable features and the train crowd would buy it all, I'm sure of it. If you look at TH-cam, which is a platform that is most popular with adults, there are so insanely many LEGO train videos, I think it is one of the most popular types of LEGO, together with Starwars and Castle, which all seem to appeal most to the somewhat older audience. For people that grew up with LEGO, this largely replaced the model train as it is infinitely more customizable and can be built to your liking.
Owned it; Hands down the best train system they had; So versatile and upgradable; Especially when you account for the electrical updates you could do like switchtracks, stop signs, etc; I really hope LEGO will put out something like that in the future; Leaps and bounds are done with Pybricks and sensors; When applied to the train system it could mean a revolutionary toy train system;
The problem nowadays is getting ahold of 9v or power function. Both being discontinued. The powered up is a good system, and I usually prefer it for anything new. That being said, I just converted my inner loop on my layout to 9v using the r104 track from fx bricks. I am ok with it because LEGO never made wide radius track and probably never will. I think the big thing for me was switching to rechargeable batteries. They don't last as long, but I have several sets I can switch out with. Big investment at first, but it has saved me a ton over the last couple of years.
Rechargeable batteries do seem to be a decent solution. And good point about them both being retired. I haven't got into the powered up yet, at least not with trains.
@@alexnunes How to run all types on 1 track layout: Use 9V trACKS FOR 9v TRAINS, also they are almsot the same as Power FUnctions and Powered Up tracks so those trains can run too and in the middle put the 12V electric rails so then 12V can run too. All the battery types can use any track type as they don't need electricity from the rails.
What's even better about the 9V train motor is, it has a standard 9V connector on top. This was used to power a 9V light on one of the steam train models. If you wanted to, there was nothing stopping you from powering the train motor through that connector instead, making it battery powered while supplying power to any of the 9V train tracks beneath it. You could combine this with an RCX to remote control it, though it would be wider than most trains at 8 studs wide instead of 6.
When I was a kid I got that blue 9V LEGO train set for Christmas and that was the best Christmas gift I've ever gotten. I don't play LEGO nowadays as there just isn't enough space in my house to even set up all those tracks. But if I were to buy a new LEGO train set today, I'd only consider getting a 9V track-powered set. I can't imagine buying and replacing batteries over and over every week.
9v was most unreliable as cheap china motors would fail to heavy loads. pf motors today are better than 9v. most reliable was 12v from 1980 to 1990. all motors made in west germany by buller even going back to early version in 1970s 12v buller
The Metroliner was good but I hated the large nose parts. Compare it to the 12V trains from the 1980s, e.g. 7740 and 7725. They were built from smaller parts, also their noses, which looks better.
I agree the 9v metal tracks Lego Train system is by far the best. It has a great sound when running. But strangely the earlier 80's12v system had all the bells and whistles that a proper train set system has. As the years have moved forward I notice LEGO keep simplifying the train system to a point now where it feels like a product line they do without conviction. Maybe another way I see it is it's made to a price.
Alex! I'm so surprised you haven't switched to rechargeable batteries for the trains. Would save you more money to spend on Lego instead 😂😂😂 Amazon has them cheap
I wish they'd stuck with 12v but gone to the 2 rail system as thet did with 9v. Less voltage drop - best of all worlds! And for direct control, just a remote operated switch onboard the trains, we don't need batteries to enable remote operation...
100% agree. Love making MOC trains and 9v is still my preferred way to go. On the upside repairing a dead or dying 9v motor is 'easy' to do. Though the set up is slightly different, they used the same motor in the PF motor and roughly the same type of motor is used in a lot of the KO motors out there. So if you don't mind doing an 'organ transplant' to get me engine going again, it's doable. Just throwing that out there.
LEGO should have stayed with electric, not just because it's seems to run more efficiently but also because it's more environmentally friendly, which is something LEGO is always saying they strive to become. The new system creates such a large volume of battery waste.
I prefer the 9 volt system over any other system especially the app system which lego switched to . The power system is OK if you have small or medium size layout.
I have a small layout (4 1/2 x 7 MILS plates) and still prefer to run 9 volt and 12 volt systems. If you are running trains with any kind of consistency I don't see using batteries (rechargeable or other-wise), a powered track is the way to go in my humble opinion - but I could be wrong.
They made a rechargeable battery box at one point. One you didn't have to fill with individual batteries. Then they discontinued it for some reason. Those are super rare and expensive now. I don't know why they don't make rechargeable hubs nowadays. Then again, considering they sold the regular empty hubs for like 50 bucks already, lord knows how expensive rechargeable battery boxes would've been. Probably 100 bucks a pop.
I think that the 9v and 12v are the best couse I like the looks of the 9v tracks better but the 12v trains are awesome couse you can have electric switches working signal posts and a automated crossing.
I still got the 9V System (4558) from the video and nowadays I enjoy playing it with my kids (3&5). Most thing we enjoy is switching trains without rebuilding them :)
I recommend rechargeable batteries, not just because they are cheaper in the long run, but they run for longer and has more power, I have a slow charger that can charge 12 batteries from IKEA
Wow, I'm shocked you use regular batteries. I've been using rechargeable for YEARS. But I agree Alex, Lego should be working on integrated system used in model trains......
6:13 It was even earlier with the 2005 lego city trains that used 6 AA Batteries and had electrical connectors incompatible with the Power functions ones.
Alex, great video. I started buying LEGO trains after they introduced the PF system. I discovered the 9 volt trains later and became a huge fan. Batteries are a pain to keep charged. I now have a collection of almost every 9 volt set LEGO made - even the Santa Fe Super Chief and BNSF engines with 9 volt motors (I think I am only missing the "ice train") and most 12 volts sets. Yes the track is a bit pricey but hey we are playing with LEGO which has never been the cheapest option. I am in the process of converting the few PF/PU trains I own to 9 volt motors. The only down side is the lack of 9 volt track. Even third party players offer a limited set of elements (points, etc) for 9 volt tracks. Great job on the video and my vote is to bring back 9 volt systems.
Wow, sounds like you have an incredible train collection. I'd love to get my hands on that Santa Fe Super Chief. Your plan to convert them all tp 9v sounds ambitious and fun. Track is tough to grab for sure. Good luck with the project and let's hope we see something like 9v again.
As a kid I remember I owned several 12V motor trains and track rails in the 80'ies. They were very expensive and I had to save up all my pocket money to build a collection. I do remember 7715 as being one of my first purchases.
They should bring back the rechargeable battery pack since it lasts longer and you did not have to constantly unscrew it all time to change the batteries after every few minutes. All you had to do was plug into its own re-charger. As for Emerald Night and my Mearsk trains, they are still running but on my old existing gray track from the 1980's era since I have lot of them as well as the old train wagons too.
There is a company that offers track with the metal rails. I do not recall the name but their intent was to continue providing the track which Lego discontinued as there was a lot of support for it. As a model railroader, I likes this option and with modern tech, it is even possible to run DCC in Lego trains. This does open many possibilities but like with most tech there are tradeoffs.
This is why I'm glad third-party supplier FX Bricks is now really getting into the 9V market, producing new track (though I don't know if they're making standard R40 curves yet) and even prototyping a new motor bogie. I do plan to have some PF and PU trains, but even though I missed out on it when new I much prefer 9V for ease of power. I've done a hybrid system of power utilizing the 9V-to-PF transition 9V RC parts, putting a 9V track powered bogie under one end of the locomotive and a 9V RC bogie under the other, connected to track power via an extension wire attaching both motor's top power studs. So far, I've noted no running issues, best of both worlds with modern traction tires on the RC motor yet no batteries to worry about. Lots more grunt with two motors as well.
The ultimate Lego train control system would be the 9 volt system but each individual motor has a power functions output for accessories that you can control like lights while it’s all controlled using a phone app and Bluetooth while you can also have an unlimited number of trains while you can easily assign multiple motors as a single train so they all work together to try and maintain the same speed as each other! :)
It’d be an absolute pipe dream but if Lego were to ever revive the 9V system I’d love to see a DCC-esque system so we could have greater control of multiple trains
hey Alex, i have been following you channel for may years now. maybe on different devices, but I started rite when you finished the hospital. And every single video that you have produced since then i have watched. and every single vid has been awesome! keep up the great work. :)
Lego should switch back to 9v BUT with the 12v switch controls. Man, i allways drool on all those remote controlled lights, switches and automation stuff. Make trains more like they did in the 12v era. With more wagons, stations, cargo container spots, etc etc etc instead of each 4 years a new cargo train and passenger train.
12v stuff all made in germany from transformer to motors and switchs most by buller. expensive and mell made. to 1990s 9v which had best rail system by no centre rail but all eletric made were cheap china rubbish from motors to transformers which breck easy to old 12v stuff. lego only wants make money now. trains dont make money to say starwars etc. Will never go back to the 12v or 9v years
I live in China, and Duracell batteries are AMONG THE MOST EXPENSIVE batteries money can get you here. For me, I have switched to rechargeable batteries a long time ago. They are a bit expensive to begin with, but no more throwing batteries in the trash. One rechargeable AA battery here costs like $0.5.
Which system is the best? I agree that 9v system (with power out of the wall) is not bad. Compared with 12v system (grey area), well hard choice only compared between the motors. Yes, 9v looks more realistic & easier to use (with less cleaning required). Disadvantage of 12v is cleaning of the inner tracks........ 😞. Yes I talk of own experience. BUT, 12v has more great stuff like elec switches, crossovers and signs to operate at distance. I prefer to use 12v over 9v, although I have both systems in use. Also the new PowerUp system, uch battery's 😞, but handy to clean 12v track 🙂. With 9v and 12v, you can connect 2 motors with a wire for more smoother ride and more pulling power. With 12v is more easier to do than with 9v.
I’ve got a couple of the usb rechargeable power functions hubs off Ali express, generally I use rechargeable batteries but they only output 1.2v rather than the 1.5 which hinders dual motor trains
They work great and are 100% compatible with any LEGO 9 volt track (straight, curve or switches). My layout is 99% FX Bricks 9 volt track. All pieces are FX Bricks track except for the points (switches) which FX is working on but yet to produce. They are a bit pricy but quality is top notch and customer service is the best.
I have a BuWizz it’s the same size (I think smaller actually) than the power functions battery box and is rechargeable. You do have to control it from an app though.
I have mentioned in the past that all of my train collection is 9 volt and I have loved that system from the beginning. It has its limits but I hate batteries.
I am sure like most things a company does it is all about economics. The power function system can be used in multiple ways unlike the 9v tracks. The tracks are really just for trains with is good for train enthusiasts for sure. But power functions can be sold to Technic builders. Or to system builders for things like the Loop coaster or the merry go round. It is also why they sell the tracks in such weird combinations these days. To make you buy more track than you actually need just to get the parts you want.
I wish Lego would have kept the 9 volt system, plus it’s more environmentally friendly. I run both 9 volt and Powered Up systems on my 9 volt track layout.
I’m going to try and design sections of track for my son. A small battery (or capacitor with power circuitry) that can charge up over these specific sections of track (probably uphill or stations where the train is pulling away). He loves using the App and the radio control is great for flexibility. I wonder if someone has already tried this or not.
I only ever had PF trains, so I had to adapt to them, but using rechargable AAA batteries or the official lego rechargable battery box can remedy some longevity issues
9V all the way. Seriously, it was Lego’s best system, the ease of use, the cool engines, the absolutely legendary twin stations of 4554 and 2150, (much to my horror though, I can’t be the only one who thinks that 2150 looks like Shining Time), not to mention the awesome magnetic couplers that never failed to create a strong magnetic connection, Super Station Master, the driver/conductor/crew minifigs, Lego Loco…. Yep, Lego 9V trains were perfect. And best of all, not batteries!!!! I want 9V back, please? Rockatoa, Brickticks out!
Lego should have pushed the Recharagble brick for PF more. Even the new Powered Up system that incorporates the receiver and battery compartment together hasn't escaped the perpetual battery consumption.
I think Lego should go back to the 9 volt system but with a change track is allway's powered at max and using power fuuctiong that grabs the power right from the track. kinda like how many miniature train layouts use now.
if you ask me, lego should have kept doing 12V, but replacing the track with what we know as 9V, however, with better geometry similar to what FxTrack is doing. also they should have kept with the times, and continued their range of trackside accessories, possibly upgraded to DCC... that would have been the best idea, and FxBrick, while not there all the way, looks to be going in the right direction. expecting a DCC controlled motor in the near future !
What Lego should do is make a new 9V system that is also compatible with power functions connections, and then make two different motors for different functions: A four-wheel bogey with a motor and controlled by the track, and a two-wheel axle that does the same things but lacks a motor and instead has a connection for a PF motor or to power an IR receiver. The 4-wheel one would function exactly like the old 9V motor, and be good for very short engines or diesel/electric engines, while the 2-wheel one would be ideal for engines with more unique wheel arrangements like steam engines, while also cutting out the necessity for the massive bulky battery boxes.
The single axle version could connect to and control a PF motor directly for ease of building, or send power to an IR receiver so that there could be multiple independently controlled trains on a single track and also for better integration with existing PF engines.
I've only ever worked with the Battery box system. At a show in NC in 2022 I think we went through almost 4 or 5 packs or more of AA batteries. I wish LEGO could go back to 9V with smaller components or something that doesn't require wasting a sh** ton of batteries. I've really gotten to love LEGO Trains in the last 2 years
You should check out FX bricks. They have variety of 9V track geometries and they’re working on more right now. They are releasing a large-radius switch track soon as well as a new motor and power system.
Firstly - amazing city! I have a "little" 3 meter x 2,5 m city, which looks more like a suburb compared to yours ;-) I run the 9V as that's the train sets I enjoy the most, but those sets are also so much better in design than the boring looking passenger trains of today, I run the Metroliner with the Club Car and the (4558) and the Cargo Railway (4558) and the details and build is just amazing! I sincerely hope they will move back to powered motors!
Additional negative in using battery boxes: exploding batteries and corrosion. If they don't get used there is nothing with this system than opening up a box to find battery acid all over the place.
Lego won't do this, but I'm an engineer. Make a hybrid system that uses 9v motors but also power functions, the idea being its powered by batteries, but they're charged over the span of the track so that you can run several trains in different directions, since the wheels spin on motors from batteries, while they're all powering the batteries, that way you won't even need metal tracks everywhere but rather literally say at train stations to charge them up every so often. Or just run the metal tracks everywhere, and send signals instead of steady current to even control lights and rail crossings like in the 1981 bank rob ad of 12v system
i had the 12V system (4:00) when i was kid (lego train 7745), it was super fast ! :o Also what is nice with this model, there are 2 locomotive. With new model , it looks incomplete as there is only one locomotive.
Alex, if you use one of the other trains (e.g. the ICE or something similar), your batteries will last much longer. The Horizon Express is very heavy because of the brick-built stuff. I bought a pair when they came out, but found it impractical to run, so sold them. As others have said: use rechargeable batteries. I do have the rechargeable PF battery box and it is a godsend - runs for a long time, and recharging consists of plugging a cord into the top of it. I've asked Lego for a rechargeable PoweredUp train hub, but I doubt it will happen. See my latest two videos for how frustrating it can be to use Lego trains for a switching session. I'll admit: I've now bought Bachmann DCC trains (N-scale), and will be doing my first switching session with them in the next few days. For several years, our local group used DCC-modified 9V trains for shows. We still mostly use 9V at shows - its just too much of a pain to mess with batteries. Also, at the last show we found that the Bluetooth used by PoweredUp is subject to connection problems in a large show hall - we ended up with one of the trains just sitting there for a day because it and its controller wouldn't connect.
9v doesn't allow as much flexibility and customization for MOC builders, being able to hook up an L motor in the cab to create space for griebling on the bogies as an absolute godsend. If they would bring back this system (cuz batteries suck) I'd wonder if they would instead allow power pickup so power (with metal brushes like those toy racing cars on track do) to allow a controller/motor inside the train
I get Lego's reasoning for doing away with the 9V system but the fact that it still remains popular so many years later ought to be a clue to Lego that they need to bring it back, at least online if not in the stores.
I’ve got none of it but wish that I had 9v track and motors as it seems so much easier. With 7 trains using batteries for me is not brilliant, and if you don’t constantly use rechargeables they give up on you. I’ve got no parts so buying some at the moment is pointless, but when Fx Bricks has released their whole track and motor system I’ll be investing.
Man, my lego train, just the engine alone, can barely be pushed on straights with new batteries and power functions, don't worry about curves cause it can make curves
I had this dilemma about a year ago. I chose to go powered up for all my trains for cost, convenience and practicality. Using rechargable batteries I can get a good few hours run time which is more than enough. I even converted all my 12v over. A pup motor is €10. A 12v is €90. A 9v is €50 Don't start me on the cost of track....
I say lego should move to something like Model trains, 12V DC with a abilty to convert to DCC, I used to do lego trains. to be honest, Bluetooth and phones and IR stuff now doesn't really fit the bill. when in model trains you can have sound, light, seperate control for each train or tie them together...
Might be interesting, they could take hints from the overall model rail scene and possibly figure out how to integrate some form of DCC (Digital Command Control), which has been in use with the likes of HO scale for decades.
Im surprised that you arent using rechargeable batteries? In Sweden we have them at IKEA with different mAH. Yes, they cost a bit more, but you will do some big savings after a while.
LEGO will forever cite manufacturing costs and safety reasons for the retirement of 9v trains. The load and haul railroad cost $130 in 1991 and the 2003 cargo train also cost $130. The early 9v trains were expensive to produce because of the tooling costs and the later 9v trains were worse designs. $130 1991 USD is $250 pre pandemic USD. That’s about 25% more than the 2022 powered up passenger and freight trains cost. That’s the devil’s advocate
are you aware there is a rechargable battery that has the same form factor as the train battery ? yes, lego made a rechargable battery for such use, the only problem is that it outputs 7.4v instead of the 9v that normal batteries output. it can still do the job tho.
@@alexnunes its your opinion, tho i think it would still not be a solution as they output a lower voltage, i own one of them and it outputs 7.4 volts as i said in my original comment which runs train motors slower, resulting in less performance. tho, the older 9 volt trains were just obviously better, no batteries and no performance loss, tho the only problem is the pain that it is to find tracks as you said in your video tho you also said that you can make handmade ones, and this is where this long comment ends.
@@TheOfficialDorianelevator You're absolutely right! I think the sticker shock is what kept me away from them. That box was $50 I think. A solid option for sure. Thanks for taking the time to watch this. I do miss those 9v.
Running more than two trains at the same time doesn't really work unless you automate it. As a kid I've only ever had 4.5v trains and those were magical. My (late) father was rather ahead of the game so we had two sets of rechargeable C-cells back in the 70s! As a side effect I always viewed 'normal' batteries as strange, why would you want to have single use batteries? My conclusion: (rechargeable) batteries are completely OK for the toy function, but I will agree that an AFOL will probably want more.
I’m going for wireless charging. The raspberry pi that controls an esp8266 on board each loco (and car eventually) will ‘put the trains to bed’ on a particular section of track that has an induction loop that will charge the batteries overnight. Nice room btw.😂
As much as I love 9v system (childhood memories) it is inferior. - limited gauge - fixed distance between motor wheels - no control over individual train - all are doing the same speed and direction - 9v lights were the worst light source in LEGO ever + many more In general, non engine system is more MOC friendly. I still using 9v track as it is the best looking.
Doesn't help with the gauge or lights, but there's been a few folks who've done integration of DCC into LEGO trains. Might be cool if LEGO made an official system with DCC on powered track.
My gandson is getting to the stage that I would like to add trains to his experience but I have to say that the newer battery driven trains even using rechargeable batteries is really putting me off. I would rather get him into non Lego trains and he can build a Lego town around it. The 9v system looks the best but they are very pricey and hard to find as they are attracting rare collector prices already.
I purchased and collected lego 9V trains for many years. Loved them. Once they switched to battery operated trains I boycotted and haven't purchased a Lego anything since.
Some designs are really good though and you can easily convert a train to 9v. I got both 9v and the newer trains. And I can't say the designs of the new trains are bad. Batteries are a pain though. And all those tablet/phone functions I can't be bothered.
I have a non-working 9 volt motor unit. I took the motor out and use is a power pic-up unit. I can connect this power pickup unit the Power Functions IR receiver (which is also the power controller in s Power functions system) then connect a power functions train motor to the IR receiver. Just power up the 9 volt track and use the Power functions remote to control to Power Functions motor (and train). Other than stripping the non-functioning 9 volt motor from its original unit, all with legal standard LEGO parts - if you are a LEGO purist 😃 Sadly this does layout not work with Power-up systems I don't think, no official LEGO Power functions to power up connectors 😐
if you ask me the 9 volt system was better besides buying all those batteries are way too expensive if I said something wrong please do feel free to correct me in the comments section
Print a 3d model for a 9v usb c battery for power function or power hub. 5 euros for the 3d model print and a bit of copper, five for a battery 9v usb c. And you re good to go.
With Legos new push for being more environmentally friendly maybe we will see them look for alternatives that don’t leave so much waste in the form of spent batteries.
Your would think, right?
Well rechargeable is always an option
Just… get rechargeable batteries…
Even rechargable batteries don't last forever and still cost a lot of highly environmentally taxing stuff to make and break down. Not to mention a lot of the materials are somewhat rare and can be used for other things that cannot be simply hooked up to a grid. It's backwards thinking and frankly quite unnecessary.
They did this with the rechargeable battery box. No outside batteries needed anymore (this also existed for Mindstorms in some level)
As to why Lego dicthed the whole 9V/transformer system, it is believed that they considered it a safety hazard for kids, so they moved to batteries. I don't see how 9V is dangerous since you can't even feel the current most of the time, but oh well.
And yes, I am a 9V fan. I wish there could be something done to create a system similar to digital H0, in which with a small circuit board and a dedicated control station you could control various trains running on 9V.
I think the main issue was with the 9V system is that it was easy to do a short circuit with the switches if somebody doesn't follow the lines correctly.
And you don't need big currents to start an electric fire, a wedding literally was almost ruined a last autumn because some kind of cheap battery powered LED light's started to smoking. Luckily it was recognized in time. (The Lego battery pack have a lot of electrics and IMHO sensors to detect issues.)
considering how many kids put a 9v battery on their toung, surely it cant be that dangerouse
It wasn’t just that, producing the metal tracks and motors were also expensive to produce. Willing to bet the move to RC was a financial one as opposed to a safety concern
@@Friggityfrag7 Exactly this. Making metal tracks is highly expensive, LEGO simply made a financial decision, screwing the consumer with inconvenience and extra costs.
I was one of the few individuals to experience the odd "remote control" era before Power Functions
Still running 12V here. Works like a charm even though, after being dormant for a while, it needs a small push every 1st lap.
I run both 9 volt on my outer loop and 12 volt, on the inner loop, systems. Love the ability to remotely switch track, decouple cars and start/stop trains in the 12 volt system, arguably the golden era of LEGO trains. Still, I think the 9 volt track is less finicky than the 12 volt track system. That and the availability of 9 volt motors makes the 9 volt system my preferred way to go. Still the 12 volt 7740 Electric Inter City Train set is THE iconic LEGO train set in my opinion.
I grew up with the 9V system always dreaming of the 12V stuff that I read about in a Lego brochure from that era. It seemed so versatile and sleek with all the compatible remote-controlled add-on systems. The 9V is of course clearly the best one from a power transmission perspective, but it never really went beyond that, as Lego went through its dumbing-down process in the 90s.
About power functions I don't have any experience, but I have a PoweredUp train. My first impression was that it is a simple battery box/reciever unit. But it has the potential to be so much more. The reciever is programmable, and you can add a color sensor to it! Essentially, what you have is not a dumb train that will simply run around the track until the battery runs out. You can program the train to stop at stations, slow down in curves, or even have it run back and forth: no need to build a looping track.
With additional PoweredUp boxes and motors (or third party solutions) you can also automate switches and crossings, even introduce signaling and automatic train control. It feels like there actually is a possibility to realize those childhood dreams of a 12V system. Yes batteries is a hassle, but I think the versatility of the current system actually is a big benefit. Sadly it is not at all highlighted as a possibility: they should sell the trains with a color sensor and use the educational value as an introduction to coding in their marketing.
These are some great points. While the 12V system was infinitely superior from the start, the 9V system was really simple and usable for anyone without any knowledge about systems and electricity. You simply hook it up and it works.
I think the RC trains are a downgrade from a convenience, financial and environmental standpoint, but there is a ton of programmability and potential. While not something for the average LEGO builder or train enthusiast, there is a lot of room for customization for the people that really want to delve deeper into the material and automate things.
Still, I would prefer a train that is just simple to build and use. I do not care about programming or hooking my phone or a computer up to my LEGO, but I can imagine a lot of people would be interested in more.
I loved the 12V system, but sadly never owned it. Lego switched to the 9V electric system when I was old enough to be alowed to play with them so I got the first starter set (grey passenger train, same as yours) for Christmas, birthday and new year combined. The most amazing part of the 12V for me was (as allready mentioned in other comments) the fact that you were able to control lots of track systems and signals together with the train, just like with model train sets: crossroads, switches, stop signs, there was even an automatic wagon seperator and street lights!
I did love the play time I had with my 9V set though 🙂!
If Lego does want to hold on to the 9V battery system I would suggest they step back to the original 9V system used for the monorail, and the 'lights and sounds' they used for the old rescue vehicles (Police, firefighters, ambulance) and space sets. They used the flat 9V batteries that are far more powerfull en last longer then all those 1,5V that need to be combined + I feel those batteryholders seemed to be smaller and easier to incorporate into your builds.
When They switched the 12V for the 9V I thought it was for those systems to become compatible, but the vehicle 'lights and sound' just seemed to have faded away...
Yes the 12V system looked like a great system, but sadly Santa wasn’t wealthy enough to add it under the tree, I finally got the 9V system Blue train, and more recently the Grey Metro second hand. But how technology is I think Lego could easily make it again maybe even better. As for that if toys a connected to the mains it’s no longer a toy. Computer consoles anyone. They weren’t for 4 year olds but for the 8 plus crowd. I read somewhere, that a toy train set I’d defined be durability, and playable. That’s Lego to a tee. And for cost, AFOL train enthusiasts would pay, just like Star Wars fans do for the Millennium Falcon. Couldn’t they have the kids and then the 18+, these could be replicators in a way to the real deal just like the Metro and the Santa Fe were. If they did make adult train sets, just don’t forget track sets. It’s the worse thing getting a basic train set without extra tracks to make it more exciting, and build-able.
I’d gladly pay, and for go things as to get not just a everyday Lego train set, but a fantastic Lego train set, and never worry about batteries again
They could come up with anything resembling the old 12V system, remade it with new programmable features and the train crowd would buy it all, I'm sure of it. If you look at TH-cam, which is a platform that is most popular with adults, there are so insanely many LEGO train videos, I think it is one of the most popular types of LEGO, together with Starwars and Castle, which all seem to appeal most to the somewhat older audience. For people that grew up with LEGO, this largely replaced the model train as it is infinitely more customizable and can be built to your liking.
Owned it; Hands down the best train system they had; So versatile and upgradable; Especially when you account for the electrical updates you could do like switchtracks, stop signs, etc; I really hope LEGO will put out something like that in the future; Leaps and bounds are done with Pybricks and sensors; When applied to the train system it could mean a revolutionary toy train system;
The problem nowadays is getting ahold of 9v or power function. Both being discontinued. The powered up is a good system, and I usually prefer it for anything new. That being said, I just converted my inner loop on my layout to 9v using the r104 track from fx bricks. I am ok with it because LEGO never made wide radius track and probably never will. I think the big thing for me was switching to rechargeable batteries. They don't last as long, but I have several sets I can switch out with. Big investment at first, but it has saved me a ton over the last couple of years.
Rechargeable batteries do seem to be a decent solution. And good point about them both being retired. I haven't got into the powered up yet, at least not with trains.
@@alexnunes How to run all types on 1 track layout: Use 9V trACKS FOR 9v TRAINS, also they are almsot the same as Power FUnctions and Powered Up tracks so those trains can run too and in the middle put the 12V electric rails so then 12V can run too. All the battery types can use any track type as they don't need electricity from the rails.
What's even better about the 9V train motor is, it has a standard 9V connector on top. This was used to power a 9V light on one of the steam train models. If you wanted to, there was nothing stopping you from powering the train motor through that connector instead, making it battery powered while supplying power to any of the 9V train tracks beneath it. You could combine this with an RCX to remote control it, though it would be wider than most trains at 8 studs wide instead of 6.
When I was a kid I got that blue 9V LEGO train set for Christmas and that was the best Christmas gift I've ever gotten. I don't play LEGO nowadays as there just isn't enough space in my house to even set up all those tracks. But if I were to buy a new LEGO train set today, I'd only consider getting a 9V track-powered set. I can't imagine buying and replacing batteries over and over every week.
9V is easy the best of them. So hassle-free and reliable. And the Metroliner....omg, what a beauty,
9v was most unreliable as cheap china motors would fail to heavy loads. pf motors today are better than 9v. most reliable was 12v from 1980 to 1990. all motors made in west germany by buller even going back to early version in 1970s 12v buller
@@tonypuertollano9375 The German company was called Bühler, not buller. But I agree totally.
The Metroliner was good but I hated the large nose parts. Compare it to the 12V trains from the 1980s, e.g. 7740 and 7725. They were built from smaller parts, also their noses, which looks better.
As a child, we had a blue 12v track, an oval and 2 switches, loved it very much
I agree the 9v metal tracks Lego Train system is by far the best. It has a great sound when running. But strangely the earlier 80's12v system had all the bells and whistles that a proper train set system has. As the years have moved forward I notice LEGO keep simplifying the train system to a point now where it feels like a product line they do without conviction. Maybe another way I see it is it's made to a price.
Alex! I'm so surprised you haven't switched to rechargeable batteries for the trains. Would save you more money to spend on Lego instead 😂😂😂 Amazon has them cheap
I wish they'd stuck with 12v but gone to the 2 rail system as thet did with 9v. Less voltage drop - best of all worlds! And for direct control, just a remote operated switch onboard the trains, we don't need batteries to enable remote operation...
A charging track would be best. Hybrid, rails charge a battery.
I had 12v as a kid in the 80’s. That was brilliant
100% agree. Love making MOC trains and 9v is still my preferred way to go.
On the upside repairing a dead or dying 9v motor is 'easy' to do.
Though the set up is slightly different, they used the same motor in the PF motor and roughly the same type of motor is used in a lot of the KO motors out there.
So if you don't mind doing an 'organ transplant' to get me engine going again, it's doable.
Just throwing that out there.
LEGO should have stayed with electric, not just because it's seems to run more efficiently but also because it's more environmentally friendly, which is something LEGO is always saying they strive to become. The new system creates such a large volume of battery waste.
also it saves space, you dont need to cram a gigantic battery box into your trains and you can connect lights to the motor
I prefer the 9 volt system over any other system especially the app system which lego switched to . The power system is OK if you have small or medium size layout.
I have a small layout (4 1/2 x 7 MILS plates) and still prefer to run 9 volt and 12 volt systems. If you are running trains with any kind of consistency I don't see using batteries (rechargeable or other-wise), a powered track is the way to go in my humble opinion - but I could be wrong.
They made a rechargeable battery box at one point. One you didn't have to fill with individual batteries.
Then they discontinued it for some reason. Those are super rare and expensive now.
I don't know why they don't make rechargeable hubs nowadays. Then again, considering they sold the regular empty hubs for like 50 bucks already, lord knows how expensive rechargeable battery boxes would've been. Probably 100 bucks a pop.
I think that the 9v and 12v are the best couse I like the looks of the 9v tracks better but the 12v trains are awesome couse you can have electric switches working signal posts and a automated crossing.
Please, GoBricks. Be a HERO for us on bring it back the 9v system. We knew you can do it!
I still got the 9V System (4558) from the video and nowadays I enjoy playing it with my kids (3&5). Most thing we enjoy is switching trains without rebuilding them :)
I recommend rechargeable batteries, not just because they are cheaper in the long run, but they run for longer and has more power, I have a slow charger that can charge 12 batteries from IKEA
None of the rechargeable AAA batteries provides 1,5V, but 1,2V. Useless.
Wow, I'm shocked you use regular batteries. I've been using rechargeable for YEARS. But I agree Alex, Lego should be working on integrated system used in model trains......
Could you tell where can you buy the rechargeable batteries and what rechargeable batteries you use I need them
6:13 It was even earlier with the 2005 lego city trains that used 6 AA Batteries and had electrical connectors incompatible with the Power functions ones.
Alex, great video. I started buying LEGO trains after they introduced the PF system. I discovered the 9 volt trains later and became a huge fan. Batteries are a pain to keep charged. I now have a collection of almost every 9 volt set LEGO made - even the Santa Fe Super Chief and BNSF engines with 9 volt motors (I think I am only missing the "ice train") and most 12 volts sets. Yes the track is a bit pricey but hey we are playing with LEGO which has never been the cheapest option. I am in the process of converting the few PF/PU trains I own to 9 volt motors. The only down side is the lack of 9 volt track. Even third party players offer a limited set of elements (points, etc) for 9 volt tracks. Great job on the video and my vote is to bring back 9 volt systems.
Wow, sounds like you have an incredible train collection. I'd love to get my hands on that Santa Fe Super Chief. Your plan to convert them all tp 9v sounds ambitious and fun. Track is tough to grab for sure. Good luck with the project and let's hope we see something like 9v again.
All 9v lego was amasing.
Light and sound, phiber optics..
Compatible, small. Classy.
a hack for me: i just leave the screws off of the power functions battery box. when i need to change batteries i just pull the the inside piece out
I actually own a few of the old 4.5 volt motors and battery boxes, just wish I had rails to put them on.
As a kid I remember I owned several 12V motor trains and track rails in the 80'ies. They were very expensive and I had to save up all my pocket money to build a collection. I do remember 7715 as being one of my first purchases.
i also have the 7715
They should bring back the rechargeable battery pack since it lasts longer and you did not have to constantly unscrew it all time to change the batteries after every few minutes. All you had to do was plug into its own re-charger. As for Emerald Night and my Mearsk trains, they are still running but on my old existing gray track from the 1980's era since I have lot of them as well as the old train wagons too.
I do not screw in the screws on my boxes.
There is a company that offers track with the metal rails. I do not recall the name but their intent was to continue providing the track which Lego discontinued as there was a lot of support for it. As a model railroader, I likes this option and with modern tech, it is even possible to run DCC in Lego trains. This does open many possibilities but like with most tech there are tradeoffs.
This is why I'm glad third-party supplier FX Bricks is now really getting into the 9V market, producing new track (though I don't know if they're making standard R40 curves yet) and even prototyping a new motor bogie.
I do plan to have some PF and PU trains, but even though I missed out on it when new I much prefer 9V for ease of power.
I've done a hybrid system of power utilizing the 9V-to-PF transition 9V RC parts, putting a 9V track powered bogie under one end of the locomotive and a 9V RC bogie under the other, connected to track power via an extension wire attaching both motor's top power studs.
So far, I've noted no running issues, best of both worlds with modern traction tires on the RC motor yet no batteries to worry about. Lots more grunt with two motors as well.
12V was the best, because you could keep trains parked on sections that were deactivated not by switches but by remote controlled signals.
The ultimate Lego train control system would be the 9 volt system but each individual motor has a power functions output for accessories that you can control like lights while it’s all controlled using a phone app and Bluetooth while you can also have an unlimited number of trains while you can easily assign multiple motors as a single train so they all work together to try and maintain the same speed as each other! :)
It’d be an absolute pipe dream but if Lego were to ever revive the 9V system I’d love to see a DCC-esque system so we could have greater control of multiple trains
hey Alex, i have been following you channel for may years now. maybe on different devices, but I started rite when you finished the hospital. And every single video that you have produced since then i have watched. and every single vid has been awesome! keep up the great work. :)
Thank you so much! I hope to be able to keep them coming.
Lego should switch back to 9v BUT with the 12v switch controls. Man, i allways drool on all those remote controlled lights, switches and automation stuff.
Make trains more like they did in the 12v era. With more wagons, stations, cargo container spots, etc etc etc instead of each 4 years a new cargo train and passenger train.
12v stuff all made in germany from transformer to motors and switchs most by buller. expensive and mell made. to 1990s 9v which had best rail system by no centre rail but all eletric made were cheap china rubbish from motors to transformers which breck easy to old 12v stuff. lego only wants make money now. trains dont make money to say starwars etc. Will never go back to the 12v or 9v years
I have almost all the gray area 12 volt sets. Motors are all still running strong and they are approaching 50 years old.
I live in China, and Duracell batteries are AMONG THE MOST EXPENSIVE batteries money can get you here. For me, I have switched to rechargeable batteries a long time ago. They are a bit expensive to begin with, but no more throwing batteries in the trash. One rechargeable AA battery here costs like $0.5.
Which system is the best? I agree that 9v system (with power out of the wall) is not bad. Compared with 12v system (grey area), well hard choice only compared between the motors.
Yes, 9v looks more realistic & easier to use (with less cleaning required). Disadvantage of 12v is cleaning of the inner tracks........ 😞. Yes I talk of own experience. BUT, 12v has more great stuff like elec switches, crossovers and signs to operate at distance.
I prefer to use 12v over 9v, although I have both systems in use. Also the new PowerUp system, uch battery's 😞, but handy to clean 12v track 🙂. With 9v and 12v, you can connect 2 motors with a wire for more smoother ride and more pulling power. With 12v is more easier to do than with 9v.
I’ve got a couple of the usb rechargeable power functions hubs off Ali express, generally I use rechargeable batteries but they only output 1.2v rather than the 1.5 which hinders dual motor trains
Fx bricks has 9V motors track for Lego trains
Nice, I'll need to check it out.
They work great and are 100% compatible with any LEGO 9 volt track (straight, curve or switches). My layout is 99% FX Bricks 9 volt track. All pieces are FX Bricks track except for the points (switches) which FX is working on but yet to produce. They are a bit pricy but quality is top notch and customer service is the best.
I have a BuWizz it’s the same size (I think smaller actually) than the power functions battery box and is rechargeable. You do have to control it from an app though.
Thank you. Wanting to get into the train side of LEGO for a while now.
I have mentioned in the past that all of my train collection is 9 volt and I have loved that system from the beginning. It has its limits but I hate batteries.
I would love to have 100% 9v. That's great!
@@alexnunes Have you looked into Fx Bricks? They aren't genuine but they do have 9 volt.
@@alexnunes Alex I am converting my few PF trains to 9 volt motors. I will have 100% either 9 volt or 12 volt as soon as the 9 volt motors come in.
I would love to see rechargeable battery packs you can charge with USB C
I'd like to see that too.
TBH, I'd kinda prefer the likes of Micro USB.
Many of the USB-C ports I've run into wear out real quick and become a royal PITA to use.
@@richardakajazzyamx9690 only thing that in europe new devices with micro usb are not allowed
I am sure like most things a company does it is all about economics. The power function system can be used in multiple ways unlike the 9v tracks. The tracks are really just for trains with is good for train enthusiasts for sure. But power functions can be sold to Technic builders. Or to system builders for things like the Loop coaster or the merry go round. It is also why they sell the tracks in such weird combinations these days. To make you buy more track than you actually need just to get the parts you want.
I wish Lego would have kept the 9 volt system, plus it’s more environmentally friendly. I run both 9 volt and Powered Up systems on my 9 volt track layout.
I build a layout with a couple of people in my lug in Sweden and we use PF + s-brick. Looking to modify to use lipo instead of the battery box.
I’m going to try and design sections of track for my son. A small battery (or capacitor with power circuitry) that can charge up over these specific sections of track (probably uphill or stations where the train is pulling away). He loves using the App and the radio control is great for flexibility. I wonder if someone has already tried this or not.
I only ever had PF trains, so I had to adapt to them, but using rechargable AAA batteries or the official lego rechargable battery box can remedy some longevity issues
that new 9 volt track that come out in Germany and the new copy of the old 9 volt motors looks ace i know shipping cost would be very high
9V all the way. Seriously, it was Lego’s best system, the ease of use, the cool engines, the absolutely legendary twin stations of 4554 and 2150, (much to my horror though, I can’t be the only one who thinks that 2150 looks like Shining Time), not to mention the awesome magnetic couplers that never failed to create a strong magnetic connection, Super Station Master, the driver/conductor/crew minifigs, Lego Loco…. Yep, Lego 9V trains were perfect. And best of all, not batteries!!!!
I want 9V back, please?
Rockatoa, Brickticks out!
Lego should have pushed the Recharagble brick for PF more. Even the new Powered Up system that incorporates the receiver and battery compartment together hasn't escaped the perpetual battery consumption.
I think Lego should go back to the 9 volt system but with a change track is allway's powered at max and using power fuuctiong that grabs the power right from the track. kinda like how many miniature train layouts use now.
if you ask me, lego should have kept doing 12V, but replacing the track with what we know as 9V, however, with better geometry similar to what FxTrack is doing.
also they should have kept with the times, and continued their range of trackside accessories, possibly upgraded to DCC...
that would have been the best idea, and FxBrick, while not there all the way, looks to be going in the right direction. expecting a DCC controlled motor in the near future !
What if you add a RC car battery?
What Lego should do is make a new 9V system that is also compatible with power functions connections, and then make two different motors for different functions: A four-wheel bogey with a motor and controlled by the track, and a two-wheel axle that does the same things but lacks a motor and instead has a connection for a PF motor or to power an IR receiver.
The 4-wheel one would function exactly like the old 9V motor, and be good for very short engines or diesel/electric engines, while the 2-wheel one would be ideal for engines with more unique wheel arrangements like steam engines, while also cutting out the necessity for the massive bulky battery boxes.
The single axle version could connect to and control a PF motor directly for ease of building, or send power to an IR receiver so that there could be multiple independently controlled trains on a single track and also for better integration with existing PF engines.
I've only ever worked with the Battery box system. At a show in NC in 2022 I think we went through almost 4 or 5 packs or more of AA batteries. I wish LEGO could go back to 9V with smaller components or something that doesn't require wasting a sh** ton of batteries. I've really gotten to love LEGO Trains in the last 2 years
You should check out FX bricks. They have variety of 9V track geometries and they’re working on more right now. They are releasing a large-radius switch track soon as well as a new motor and power system.
have you ever opened one that stopped working? wonder if its rebuildable? Kind of surprised there's no Chinese off brand repops
Firstly - amazing city! I have a "little" 3 meter x 2,5 m city, which looks more like a suburb compared to yours ;-) I run the 9V as that's the train sets I enjoy the most, but those sets are also so much better in design than the boring looking passenger trains of today, I run the Metroliner with the Club Car and the (4558) and the Cargo Railway (4558) and the details and build is just amazing! I sincerely hope they will move back to powered motors!
I think they should power trains from the tracks, but there should be a form of remote control integrated into the motor.
Additional negative in using battery boxes: exploding batteries and corrosion. If they don't get used there is nothing with this system than opening up a box to find battery acid all over the place.
Easy to solve , don’t store them with batteries in them
Love your city. Where did you buy most of your buildings?
I buy them from a lot of different places, but mainly the LEGO store and Bricklink.
You did forget to mention Powered Up, and the Power Functions rechargeable battery box
Lego won't do this, but I'm an engineer. Make a hybrid system that uses 9v motors but also power functions, the idea being its powered by batteries, but they're charged over the span of the track so that you can run several trains in different directions, since the wheels spin on motors from batteries, while they're all powering the batteries, that way you won't even need metal tracks everywhere but rather literally say at train stations to charge them up every so often. Or just run the metal tracks everywhere, and send signals instead of steady current to even control lights and rail crossings like in the 1981 bank rob ad of 12v system
i had the 12V system (4:00) when i was kid (lego train 7745), it was super fast ! :o Also what is nice with this model, there are 2 locomotive. With new model , it looks incomplete as there is only one locomotive.
Why people dont use rechargable AA batteries?
Alex, if you use one of the other trains (e.g. the ICE or something similar), your batteries will last much longer. The Horizon Express is very heavy because of the brick-built stuff. I bought a pair when they came out, but found it impractical to run, so sold them. As others have said: use rechargeable batteries. I do have the rechargeable PF battery box and it is a godsend - runs for a long time, and recharging consists of plugging a cord into the top of it. I've asked Lego for a rechargeable PoweredUp train hub, but I doubt it will happen. See my latest two videos for how frustrating it can be to use Lego trains for a switching session. I'll admit: I've now bought Bachmann DCC trains (N-scale), and will be doing my first switching session with them in the next few days. For several years, our local group used DCC-modified 9V trains for shows. We still mostly use 9V at shows - its just too much of a pain to mess with batteries. Also, at the last show we found that the Bluetooth used by PoweredUp is subject to connection problems in a large show hall - we ended up with one of the trains just sitting there for a day because it and its controller wouldn't connect.
9v doesn't allow as much flexibility and customization for MOC builders, being able to hook up an L motor in the cab to create space for griebling on the bogies as an absolute godsend. If they would bring back this system (cuz batteries suck) I'd wonder if they would instead allow power pickup so power (with metal brushes like those toy racing cars on track do) to allow a controller/motor inside the train
I get Lego's reasoning for doing away with the 9V system but the fact that it still remains popular so many years later ought to be a clue to Lego that they need to bring it back, at least online if not in the stores.
I’ve got none of it but wish that I had 9v track and motors as it seems so much easier. With 7 trains using batteries for me is not brilliant, and if you don’t constantly use rechargeables they give up on you. I’ve got no parts so buying some at the moment is pointless, but when Fx Bricks has released their whole track and motor system I’ll be investing.
Man, my lego train, just the engine alone, can barely be pushed on straights with new batteries and power functions, don't worry about curves cause it can make curves
I had this dilemma about a year ago. I chose to go powered up for all my trains for cost, convenience and practicality. Using rechargable batteries I can get a good few hours run time which is more than enough.
I even converted all my 12v over.
A pup motor is €10. A 12v is €90. A 9v is €50
Don't start me on the cost of track....
I say lego should move to something like Model trains, 12V DC with a abilty to convert to DCC, I used to do lego trains. to be honest, Bluetooth and phones and IR stuff now doesn't really fit the bill. when in model trains you can have sound, light, seperate control for each train or tie them together...
Lego NEEDS to introduce a new system, powered by the tracks but with the option to remote control every train seperatly... somehow
That would be pretty awesome. Best of both worlds.
Might be interesting, they could take hints from the overall model rail scene and possibly figure out how to integrate some form of DCC (Digital Command Control), which has been in use with the likes of HO scale for decades.
Im surprised that you arent using rechargeable batteries?
In Sweden we have them at IKEA with different mAH. Yes, they cost a bit more, but you will do some big savings after a while.
Because 6x AAA rechargeable batteries gives you only 7,2V vs 9V, less performance.
LEGO will forever cite manufacturing costs and safety reasons for the retirement of 9v trains. The load and haul railroad cost $130 in 1991 and the 2003 cargo train also cost $130. The early 9v trains were expensive to produce because of the tooling costs and the later 9v trains were worse designs. $130 1991 USD is $250 pre pandemic USD. That’s about 25% more than the 2022 powered up passenger and freight trains cost. That’s the devil’s advocate
are you aware there is a rechargable battery that has the same form factor as the train battery ? yes, lego made a rechargable battery for such use, the only problem is that it outputs 7.4v instead of the 9v that normal batteries output. it can still do the job tho.
I am aware, just don't like rechargeables.
@@alexnunes its your opinion, tho i think it would still not be a solution as they output a lower voltage, i own one of them and it outputs 7.4 volts as i said in my original comment which runs train motors slower, resulting in less performance. tho, the older 9 volt trains were just obviously better, no batteries and no performance loss, tho the only problem is the pain that it is to find tracks as you said in your video tho you also said that you can make handmade ones, and this is where this long comment ends.
@@TheOfficialDorianelevator You're absolutely right! I think the sticker shock is what kept me away from them. That box was $50 I think. A solid option for sure. Thanks for taking the time to watch this. I do miss those 9v.
@@alexnunesby the way, you can just peel those stickers off, i didnt peel them off on mine just for the looks, but thats all.
Are the activated 9v tracks magnetic and safe to touch or have a strong current running through them?
Not sure if they are magnetic, but they are safe to touch
#BringBack9Volt!
Running more than two trains at the same time doesn't really work unless you automate it.
As a kid I've only ever had 4.5v trains and those were magical. My (late) father was rather ahead of the game so we had two sets of rechargeable C-cells back in the 70s! As a side effect I always viewed 'normal' batteries as strange, why would you want to have single use batteries?
My conclusion: (rechargeable) batteries are completely OK for the toy function, but I will agree that an AFOL will probably want more.
I’m going for wireless charging. The raspberry pi that controls an esp8266 on board each loco (and car eventually) will ‘put the trains to bed’ on a particular section of track that has an induction loop that will charge the batteries overnight.
Nice room btw.😂
9v was so much easier for builders. i loved it
As much as I love 9v system (childhood memories) it is inferior.
- limited gauge
- fixed distance between motor wheels
- no control over individual train - all are doing the same speed and direction
- 9v lights were the worst light source in LEGO ever
+ many more
In general, non engine system is more MOC friendly.
I still using 9v track as it is the best looking.
Doesn't help with the gauge or lights, but there's been a few folks who've done integration of DCC into LEGO trains.
Might be cool if LEGO made an official system with DCC on powered track.
My gandson is getting to the stage that I would like to add trains to his experience but I have to say that the newer battery driven trains even using rechargeable batteries is really putting me off. I would rather get him into non Lego trains and he can build a Lego town around it. The 9v system looks the best but they are very pricey and hard to find as they are attracting rare collector prices already.
In 1960s when train motors were made they need third rails that power the engine
Great update
Why not both? Use 9 volt to power the motor and power functions to control the speed and direction of the train.
I think they should do both
I purchased and collected lego 9V trains for many years. Loved them. Once they switched to battery operated trains I boycotted and haven't purchased a Lego anything since.
Some designs are really good though and you can easily convert a train to 9v. I got both 9v and the newer trains. And I can't say the designs of the new trains are bad.
Batteries are a pain though. And all those tablet/phone functions I can't be bothered.
I just use rechargeable batteries, they last for years so cost isn’t really an issue then
Which gives you 1,2V x 6 = 7,2V only. You won't get rechargeable batteries that does 1,5V x 6 = 9V. You will get weak performance.
Lego should get some USB-C charging battery system, I don't get the current system in this day and age
What if u made a charging track
Lego should come up with a new system combining the best parts for 9v and the modern system
I would really love to see something like that, but sadly it would be a long shot.
I have a non-working 9 volt motor unit. I took the motor out and use is a power pic-up unit. I can connect this power pickup unit the Power Functions IR receiver (which is also the power controller in s Power functions system) then connect a power functions train motor to the IR receiver. Just power up the 9 volt track and use the Power functions remote to control to Power Functions motor (and train). Other than stripping the non-functioning 9 volt motor from its original unit, all with legal standard LEGO parts - if you are a LEGO purist 😃
Sadly this does layout not work with Power-up systems I don't think, no official LEGO Power functions to power up connectors 😐
I have 60+ motors and they are still running great... Only 1 broke after 30years of service...
Cant complain there.
The black pins on the sides are known for to break quickly but sometimes that ain't a problem
if you ask me the 9 volt system was better besides buying all those batteries are way too expensive if I said something wrong please do feel free to correct me in the comments section
Yes!
Print a 3d model for a 9v usb c battery for power function or power hub. 5 euros for the 3d model print and a bit of copper, five for a battery 9v usb c. And you re good to go.