Hello, I searched high and low for a tutorial showing how to deal with dust nibs (hair, dirt, fiber… air borne contamination). Thank goodness I found your channel. With that said, it has been 2 years since you made this video, and I am wondering if you have found any techniques or products that improve results or make the work easier. (I am not implying your results were not great. In reality, I am terrified that I will mess up my “piece”). I make wall art typically 12” X 24”, wood and resin mixed media. I have suffered getting dust nibs on every one of my pieces where I flood coated the resin finish. It is so frustrating… I am not sure that even shop with clean rooms can totally eliminate floating dust nibs totally. Your method is certainly the most cost effective way I found in regard to polishing epoxy. Please respond. If you have updates, please share. Best regards, Gerald
Hi, I’m glad you found this video helpful. I haven’t found other products so far other than what I show on this video but I also haven’t done a resin project in a long time. I’ve found it helpful to build a box to go over my piece with plastic painters canvas (brand new so that it has no dust) and building the frame out of pvc to hold it. Then I peek under before resin cures and remove any dust or particles with a toothpick. When you peek to look for dust using a flashlight and looking from multiple angles help. It’s super tedious and it takes space but I’ve had to do it to avoid ruining some of my work. As far as trying the method in this video if you’re not comfortable trying it on a finish piece maybe try a scrap piece first until you’re comfortable with it. I’ve done this method multiple times and it’s worked for me :)
I laughed at the bleeped out swearing …..the air turned blue in my art room this Monday when I found EXACTLY the same thing thanks to my 3 little #@* fur balls 😂. Thanks for sharing your process, I will be attempting it this weekend 👍
I, too, own some darling cats and the hair is hard to avoid sometimes - even with an air purifier in my workshop. Anyway, I can do all the steps except for the sander because I don't own one and because my projects are so small anyway - just 2" in diameter. Can I get around the sander part somehow? I'd SO love it if I didn't have to sand/recoat. Thanks for your video! Beautiful work, btw!
Hi! Thank you for sharing, this will be a life saver, really! ❤ I always have trouble with dust even if my room is super clean, maybe because I work really close to a big window 😅 I do have a question tho, would the polish work without the rotating thingy? (Sorry, I forgot what it's called lol)
I thought i had sent a few questions all ready...thank you for a great video! Im pouring two bar tops using ultra clear epoxy...i actually have that buffer and use it on my vehicle's. Could you use that compound on the whole top? I have two dog hairs on the one bar rt now...😢
Tiff, Please provide information about the polishing pad you used. I am excited to get all the components purchased then try it out. This could be a major time and $ savings for me. Thank you
The polisher and the pads I got from Harbor Freight. The pads description was “finishing foam pad” I don’t have links to the product unfortunately since I got it so long ago. I hope it helps :)
@diytiff sorry I should have asked it in a better way. If I'm not happy with the results and I decide to do another complete flood coat, will the spot that has the polishing compound affect the flood coat? Or can I simply sand and do another coat
I did all the steps as shown, my polisher is a synthetic wool bonnet and the polisher only runs at 3400 RPM. Unfortunately resin still looks scratchy and smudgy. I dont know if the wrong speed really is the problem? Not shre what Im doing wrong :/
I don’t remember trying it by hand, but I don’t know if it will work because the polisher has a rapid speed that can’t be done by hand, but it doesn’t hurt to try by hand first, it might just take a while.
@@diytiff I wish I could attach a pic. I did a resin inlay on one that I did not notice was warped. I did a full pour on another and as soon as I took it apart I noticed the top warped. I braced it before I did the pour to keep it straight.
Is there anything I can do to fix the little air bubbles on the surface of my resin table? I really don't want to sand it. If I pop the bubbles and reresin the entire table would that work?
I linked the one I have below. I bought it locally at harbor freight. Any polisher should work as long as it runs 1000 -1500 rpm which is the speed I ran it. I used a polishing foam pad with it. www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-7-in-digital-variable-speed-polishersander-62297.html
The clips with the animals and their commentary are the best. Your hair is so pretty in this video!
Hello,
I searched high and low for a tutorial showing how to deal with dust nibs (hair, dirt, fiber… air borne contamination). Thank goodness I found your channel. With that said, it has been 2 years since you made this video, and I am wondering if you have found any techniques or products that improve results or make the work easier. (I am not implying your results were not great. In reality, I am terrified that I will mess up my “piece”).
I make wall art typically 12” X 24”, wood and resin mixed media. I have suffered getting dust nibs on every one of my pieces where I flood coated the resin finish.
It is so frustrating… I am not sure that even shop with clean rooms can totally eliminate floating dust nibs totally.
Your method is certainly the most cost effective way I found in regard to polishing epoxy.
Please respond. If you have updates, please share.
Best regards,
Gerald
Hi,
I’m glad you found this video helpful. I haven’t found other products so far other than what I show on this video but I also haven’t done a resin project in a long time. I’ve found it helpful to build a box to go over my piece with plastic painters canvas (brand new so that it has no dust) and building the frame out of pvc to hold it. Then I peek under before resin cures and remove any dust or particles with a toothpick. When you peek to look for dust using a flashlight and looking from multiple angles help. It’s super tedious and it takes space but I’ve had to do it to avoid ruining some of my work.
As far as trying the method in this video if you’re not comfortable trying it on a finish piece maybe try a scrap piece first until you’re comfortable with it. I’ve done this method multiple times and it’s worked for me :)
@@diytiffplease share details about the polishing pad you used.
@@retiredoba2836 the polisher and the pads I got from Harbor Freight. The pads description was “finishing foam pad”
I laughed at the bleeped out swearing …..the air turned blue in my art room this Monday when I found EXACTLY the same thing thanks to my 3 little #@* fur balls 😂. Thanks for sharing your process, I will be attempting it this weekend 👍
Awesome! I’m glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck!
Best looking tv tray ever!!! Gorgeous!
Thanks you ☺️
I, too, own some darling cats and the hair is hard to avoid sometimes - even with an air purifier in my workshop. Anyway, I can do all the steps except for the sander because I don't own one and because my projects are so small anyway - just 2" in diameter. Can I get around the sander part somehow? I'd SO love it if I didn't have to sand/recoat. Thanks for your video! Beautiful work, btw!
Thanks! You're a lifesaver.
☺️
Hi! Thank you for sharing, this will be a life saver, really! ❤ I always have trouble with dust even if my room is super clean, maybe because I work really close to a big window 😅 I do have a question tho, would the polish work without the rotating thingy? (Sorry, I forgot what it's called lol)
That’s a good question, I’ve never tried it without so I don’t know if it will work as good 😌
How do I do it on glass cups? Can I use the polisher on glass cups or would it just was off when they clean the cup?
Can we pour resen again after sanding it?
I thought i had sent a few questions all ready...thank you for a great video! Im pouring two bar tops using ultra clear epoxy...i actually have that buffer and use it on my vehicle's. Could you use that compound on the whole top? I have two dog hairs on the one bar rt now...😢
I think it would work but I’ve never tried polishing the whole top since doing just the small spots worked.
@diytiff thank you! I did the whole thing and it worked perfectly - thank you again!!
Awesome!! You’re welcome ☺️
Hi. I have several pieces that I'm going to try your process on. I'll let you know how it works out. Thanks
Awesome! Let me know
Hi 👋. How did it work out?
How long are you polishing for too? Thank you so much for your help
After recoating can we hide sticky dust
I'm wondering which pad you are using on your machine? I have used 2 different foam pads and i still see the smudges from the sanding.😢
Hello 👋 The description on the pad I used was finishing foam pad. You can also try a compound/cutting pad. I got them from Harbor Freight
Does the piece need to be fully cured before using this technique?
Yes, I waited 3 days after pouring before fixing it
Tiff,
Please provide information about the polishing pad you used. I am excited to get all the components purchased then try it out. This could be a major time and $ savings for me.
Thank you
The polisher and the pads I got from Harbor Freight. The pads description was “finishing foam pad” I don’t have links to the product unfortunately since I got it so long ago. I hope it helps :)
@@diytiff no worries…
Best,
Question. If I try this technique and it doesn't work. Would another pour of epoxy heal over that polish?
Yes another pour usually fixes it, but I would sand it first before pouring :)
@diytiff sorry I should have asked it in a better way.
If I'm not happy with the results and I decide to do another complete flood coat, will the spot that has the polishing compound affect the flood coat?
Or can I simply sand and do another coat
I did all the steps as shown, my polisher is a synthetic wool bonnet and the polisher only runs at 3400 RPM. Unfortunately resin still looks scratchy and smudgy. I dont know if the wrong speed really is the problem? Not shre what Im doing wrong :/
Is it absolutely necessary to get an electric polisher or is it possible to polish by hand for similar results?
I don’t remember trying it by hand, but I don’t know if it will work because the polisher has a rapid speed that can’t be done by hand, but it doesn’t hurt to try by hand first, it might just take a while.
When you take the top off from the stand do the warp?
I’ve never had it warp before
@@diytiff I wish I could attach a pic. I did a resin inlay on one that I did not notice was warped. I did a full pour on another and as soon as I took it apart I noticed the top warped. I braced it before I did the pour to keep it straight.
That’s good to know, I’ll keep an eye out next time I make one. The brace is good idea
Thanks Tiff!
Is there anything I can do to fix the little air bubbles on the surface of my resin table? I really don't want to sand it. If I pop the bubbles and reresin the entire table would that work?
Yes popping the bubbles, and doing another coat will fix it. It is usually recommended to sand in between coats so that the epoxy bonds well 🙂
@@diytiff just for the fast response I am going to subscribe to your channel. You're amazing!
Thanks ☺️
Which polishing machine are you using? Should I buy any brand? Are they all the same ?
I linked the one I have below. I bought it locally at harbor freight. Any polisher should work as long as it runs 1000 -1500 rpm which is the speed I ran it. I used a polishing foam pad with it.
www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-7-in-digital-variable-speed-polishersander-62297.html
How does this clean up when cleaning the table?
It cleans up well, I’ve have tables that I coated few years ago and I use all purpose cleaners like lysol that are not abrasive.
Thank you!!!!!
You’re welcome ☺️