Hello Ben I am Jack from the Netherlands RAF me and my wife are going to build our house on the Fillipines. like you building. I was following Texas Filipino he build also some like you do. I found your channel last week you answered very quik cool! You show me some very nice handy tricks and tools and i will order them. I am only going to juse M12 wire ends. (So need a little more) looking forward to you next video i will tell my mates about you channel. Great Job. Regards Jack
Hey Ben, could you do a video on pouring concrete for the walls and maybe talk us thru your tips and tricks with your method of having a successful finish product.
No worries Duncan, next video is on the steelfixing and the following one will be on the curves and in detail I explain the defects in concrete and how to avoid them. I will also explain the pouring the best I can, I didn't get any good footage of the pour but when I do I will definitely make a video.
“Yet Another request from the crowd“ -since you will be doing the the reinforcement bits video could you include the cabling bits and how you deal with power/switch outlets in your formwork? cheers Ben!
Very nice work, nice video. sometimes it can work to drive home a 3" nail into the concrete face of the ply finishing up like 20mm above the 4x3 before offering it up and poking z bars through. Then drive a vertical 3" beside the 1st one (which is pointing horizontal back towards you) and twisting them together, it pulls the sheet back to the 4x3 and also it can pull the vertical joints tight if done the right side. Its only for when the 4 x 3 is fixed first, like the bottom kicker or else when ur starting the 2nd row of sheets and the joint timber is nailed on. U can always screw it to if you want to counter sink it, or spike it, not a huge fan of that tho.
Concrete is the way to go! I'm not a fan of the off-form finish. I want the outside of my house to be prettier than that .. and my kids have inherited the family history of fainting in hot weather, so I want the inside walls to be finished in plasterboard with an air gap behind it so if someone falls against it they break the plasterboard and not their skull. Behind the plasterboard and the air gap, though, I want something that is going to last, and the acoustic and thermal performance of concrete is pretty attractive too.
I’m forming up a concrete bench for a fish & chip shop with waterfall edges all around on Monday. I’ve always just used chocks on the joins and after seeing you use the pocket holes I went straight down and got one lol cheers for all the effort with all the videos mate, I’d put you at the top of any carpenter I’ve ever seen on TH-cam 👍🏽
Can do what ever you want as long as it looks good at the end! I didn't do this on my own, I had an employee with me. You can see him in many parts of the video.
Hey mate, awesome video - would you be able to explain how you fix the joists to the ply on the parts that are finished concrete (not the bathroom where it’s covered), just curious as you’re stuck building it front the back so wondering how you make sure no fixings protrude through the front of the sheet…
We skew nail from the back on an angle so the nails don’t protrude through. And anytime we can nail to something else we will. Usually at the ends you can get a nail in ply face too. And as last resort we use 110mm screws
Love the vid, please keep them all coming. So all the joints in the sheets at internal and external corners are mitred, and silicone put in joints before being fixed off? And that replaces a fillet? Do you fix your soldiers to the whalers at all or just tack nail and then rely on the Z bars?
Internal corners mitred, externals not, no need. If tight fit to sheet no silicone. If any gap silicon the back of the joint. (you will see the messy grey bits on the sheet joins) It is important to be water proof for nice looking joins. We just nail one or two x 75mm nail gun nail in each soldier to the whalers (I call them joists) and the z bars do the rest.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 One problem to solve - even with wildfire-proof construction - is the windows. They break and let fire in, or vinyl frames just melt.
Hey thanks for the videos I haven’t watched em all yet so maybe you explain somewhere else but I’m curious if you reuse or trash these black form boards (are they melamine coated mdf?)? Also, how do you line up the conduit holes perfectly for every sheet and what’s your spacing for those? Thanks!
It is laminated structural plywood with a phenolic resin coating. They provide a good finish for 2 use. But for non architectural work we get about 15 uses from each sheet. Conduit holes is the old measure twice method. I space them to suit the project and the sheets.
"This house is here forever" I like that attitude. Too many houses now are built for 50 years and it's expected they'll be torn down after that. It's wasteful to tear them down, but I've lived in houses that were past their best before and living in them is horrible too. We need to build houses for the 500 year span, not 50 years. There are plenty of houses in Eurasia that are more than 500 years old and still lived in, so we know it's possible - we just have to think a whole lot about how to make it possible for the houses we're building now. They should be lived in 500 years from now, and they should be pleasant and comfortable to live in 500 years from now.
95x45 for horizontals at 300centers. soldiers are 95x65. bolts are spaced 600vertical and 900 horizontally (to suit sheets) I usually space 900vertical and 1000-1100 horizontally
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 do you have any pictures of the finished product for the curved wall? And what is the thickness of the plywood you're using? thanks!
Yeah, when I was younger we built exact same way with no guns. Nails were far too expensive and guns not very good. There are however some things that with out the gun are very hard on your own. But it's all possible, I used to do it.
I've been a formworker for 25 years.. I like your method of screwing sheets together with hidden screws. But a formworker doesn't use a nail gun. We have mastered the hammer, unlike house chippies. In the construction world we build with fillet nails 50mm nails, and 75mm nails.. screws are hex head of various lengths always 5 mm
I used to be very good with my hammer, and took pride in it but as a business owner I'm in it to make money and I make far more money using a nail gun than I do with a hammer.
Hi Selt. It is different steel to rebar, it is high tensile steel. We call it tie rod, threaded rod, thru-bolts. Contact your local formwork supplier. Where do you live?
Hi Ben, again great informative video from BMFormowork!!! Keep it coming 👍. Q: did you ever used the fibreglass rods that are cut after the strip off and left in place ? Thx
Please explain in a bit more detail? A kicker depending what you ate using it for although similar can mean slightly different things from country to country and state to state or even contractor to contractor.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 thanks! of all the form work systems I’ve seen so far, yours is my favorite and seems like the most logical and efficient. The high tensile steel bolts seem way better than any other compression ties I’m seeing out there. The lumber you use looks better suited too. The walls you make are awesome looking. Watching your personal system gives me hope that I can learn how to build forms and walls like this in the united states.
Great work, love the focus on the customer!
Customer first with off-form.
Hello Ben I am Jack from the Netherlands RAF me and my wife are going to build our house on the Fillipines. like you building. I was following Texas Filipino he build also some like you do. I found your channel last week you answered very quik cool! You show me some very nice handy tricks and tools and i will order them. I am only going to juse M12 wire ends. (So need a little more) looking forward to you next video i will tell my mates about you channel. Great Job. Regards Jack
Thanks Jack! I am glad to help
Legend, just starting out, this is so helpful
Enjoy it mate, formwork is a great job!
Keep up the great work. You’re really helping us 💪
thx
Hey Ben, could you do a video on pouring concrete for the walls and maybe talk us thru your tips and tricks with your method of having a successful finish product.
No worries Duncan, next video is on the steelfixing and the following one will be on the curves and in detail I explain the defects in concrete and how to avoid them. I will also explain the pouring the best I can, I didn't get any good footage of the pour but when I do I will definitely make a video.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 Legend 👍
“Yet Another request from the crowd“ -since you will be doing the the reinforcement bits video could you include the cabling bits and how you deal with power/switch outlets in your formwork? cheers Ben!
Yes bump up the cabling / switches
Very nice work, nice video. sometimes it can work to drive home a 3" nail into the concrete face of the ply finishing up like 20mm above the 4x3 before offering it up and poking z bars through. Then drive a vertical 3" beside the 1st one (which is pointing horizontal back towards you) and twisting them together, it pulls the sheet back to the 4x3 and also it can pull the vertical joints tight if done the right side. Its only for when the 4 x 3 is fixed first, like the bottom kicker or else when ur starting the 2nd row of sheets and the joint timber is nailed on. U can always screw it to if you want to counter sink it, or spike it, not a huge fan of that tho.
What I do now is I just use some ply off cuts and 34mm screws to pull everything tight.
Beautiful work
thanks
Thank you.
Thanks for watching
Mate, I'm from South Australia, I'd like to build my house like this, in a few years time.
Concrete is the way to go!
I'm not a fan of the off-form finish. I want the outside of my house to be prettier than that .. and my kids have inherited the family history of fainting in hot weather, so I want the inside walls to be finished in plasterboard with an air gap behind it so if someone falls against it they break the plasterboard and not their skull.
Behind the plasterboard and the air gap, though, I want something that is going to last, and the acoustic and thermal performance of concrete is pretty attractive too.
Love your works ...❤️💪awesome
Thankyou
Thanks for the tips. Good job!!!
thanks!
You’re all over it mate love the attention to detail! Is there any reason you only use pocket holes on the horizontal join and not the vertical join?
We didn’t find the need to. I have actually never used pocket holes before or after this job.
I’m forming up a concrete bench for a fish & chip shop with waterfall edges all around on Monday. I’ve always just used chocks on the joins and after seeing you use the pocket holes I went straight down and got one lol cheers for all the effort with all the videos mate, I’d put you at the top of any carpenter I’ve ever seen on TH-cam 👍🏽
Great video interesting watch I don’t know if you could do that on a site take to long u need a hand for the lifting
Can do what ever you want as long as it looks good at the end! I didn't do this on my own, I had an employee with me. You can see him in many parts of the video.
Hey mate, awesome video - would you be able to explain how you fix the joists to the ply on the parts that are finished concrete (not the bathroom where it’s covered), just curious as you’re stuck building it front the back so wondering how you make sure no fixings protrude through the front of the sheet…
We skew nail from the back on an angle so the nails don’t protrude through. And anytime we can nail to something else we will. Usually at the ends you can get a nail in ply face too. And as last resort we use 110mm screws
Love the vid, please keep them all coming. So all the joints in the sheets at internal and external corners are mitred, and silicone put in joints before being fixed off? And that replaces a fillet? Do you fix your soldiers to the whalers at all or just tack nail and then rely on the Z bars?
Internal corners mitred, externals not, no need. If tight fit to sheet no silicone. If any gap silicon the back of the joint. (you will see the messy grey bits on the sheet joins) It is important to be water proof for nice looking joins. We just nail one or two x 75mm nail gun nail in each soldier to the whalers (I call them joists) and the z bars do the rest.
can you reuse all this plywood and lumber in the framing later on?
Yes
Crazy good materials and workmanship.
cheers, what country are you in?
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 California. Studying ways people build fireproof homes. Your presentations are awesome!
fireproof home would be handy in California! also here!
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 One problem to solve - even with wildfire-proof construction - is the windows. They break and let fire in, or vinyl frames just melt.
What to you plug the holes with mate. Doing some walls over rin Indonesia for a big house build we doing . Love your work also
We use special grout with fibres in it called hb40 from parchem/fosroc. There are other products which do the same thing.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 thanks mate we have fosroc here in Indonesia
Hey thanks for the videos
I haven’t watched em all yet so maybe you explain somewhere else but I’m curious if you reuse or trash these black form boards (are they melamine coated mdf?)?
Also, how do you line up the conduit holes perfectly for every sheet and what’s your spacing for those?
Thanks!
It is laminated structural plywood with a phenolic resin coating. They provide a good finish for 2 use. But for non architectural work we get about 15 uses from each sheet. Conduit holes is the old measure twice method. I space them to suit the project and the sheets.
"This house is here forever" I like that attitude. Too many houses now are built for 50 years and it's expected they'll be torn down after that. It's wasteful to tear them down, but I've lived in houses that were past their best before and living in them is horrible too.
We need to build houses for the 500 year span, not 50 years. There are plenty of houses in Eurasia that are more than 500 years old and still lived in, so we know it's possible - we just have to think a whole lot about how to make it possible for the houses we're building now. They should be lived in 500 years from now, and they should be pleasant and comfortable to live in 500 years from now.
100% people round here change their mind too much, but yes most houses here get demolished after about 50years. It is a huge waste of resources!
Excellent work on your behalf but why isn't there more steel in the walls?
Not sure mate, im not an engineer
Another brilliant informative video.
Just wanted to know, looks like you used 90 x 45 lvl for all timber and the tie rods at 800 centres each way.
95x45 for horizontals at 300centers. soldiers are 95x65. bolts are spaced 600vertical and 900 horizontally (to suit sheets) I usually space 900vertical and 1000-1100 horizontally
Cool!
Thx
How do you do light switch boxes?
Put a box in and screw it off
Super good stuff! Thanks so much!
Thanks mate!
are you using rebar as your bolts ??
No. The bolts are threaded high tensile bar. Rebar is neither
I want to see how you did the front of the wall where it is curved
Roger, Next video will show it
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 do you have any pictures of the finished product for the curved wall? And what is the thickness of the plywood you're using? thanks!
Love u vedio . When update next one
I been too busy with work to film. I tend to get more time over winter. Will try film more soon.
what do you call the pipes with yellow cap that goes through the steel bars between the forms?
Conduit
Hey mate, looking for a subby for this type of work in Mornington, VIC. How to contact you? Are you now BMD?
I'm in Perth WA mate. We are bmformwork pty Ltd.
Love u vid. What is it called the things that u put through the sheet/formwork panel?
tie rods/z-bars/bolts/thu-bolts
How U stick build if no nail gun? Hook nail the dog?
Yeah, when I was younger we built exact same way with no guns. Nails were far too expensive and guns not very good. There are however some things that with out the gun are very hard on your own. But it's all possible, I used to do it.
I've been a formworker for 25 years..
I like your method of screwing sheets together with hidden screws. But a formworker doesn't use a nail gun. We have mastered the hammer, unlike house chippies. In the construction world we build with fillet nails 50mm nails, and 75mm nails.. screws are hex head of various lengths always 5 mm
I used to be very good with my hammer, and took pride in it but as a business owner I'm in it to make money and I make far more money using a nail gun than I do with a hammer.
Fiberglass ties. Do you like? Why, Why not?
Never used them. Never seen them. I would definitely use them if I knew enough about them
Where do you buy the rebar threader and what is the real name of it?
Hi Selt. It is different steel to rebar, it is high tensile steel. We call it tie rod, threaded rod, thru-bolts. Contact your local formwork supplier. Where do you live?
Wanna do run of cantilevered steps video?
definitely will next time I get some! did you watch my current cantilever step video? it shows 1 way of building them.
What are the metal rods with the plate and stopper at 5.30 called?
tie-rods or z-bars
Hi Ben, again great informative video from BMFormowork!!! Keep it coming 👍.
Q: did you ever used the fibreglass rods that are cut after the strip off and left in place ?
Thx
if you use a kicker you would have no problems with leveling up your shutters!
Please explain in a bit more detail? A kicker depending what you ate using it for although similar can mean slightly different things from country to country and state to state or even contractor to contractor.
what is the name of the snap ties you are using to hold the forms? and what is the black plywood you are using called?
They aren’t snap ties. They’re just high tensile steel bolts. The black ply is called formply
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 thanks! of all the form work systems I’ve seen so far, yours is my favorite and seems like the most logical and efficient. The high tensile steel bolts seem way better than any other compression ties I’m seeing out there. The lumber you use looks better suited too. The walls you make are awesome looking. Watching your personal system gives me hope that I can learn how to build forms and walls like this in the united states.
Fucking art installation. Love eveybit of it.
Thanks bro