How TF is it possible that I don't have this part for 6mm hex just a preload bolt for 10mm . You have this part for 6mm Patrick? I've checked in the box and it's also not there
This is the new design so O ring doesn’t need to be replaced as often. Mine is the 1st Gen one. And the O ring is in the middle of the threads hence it will definitely break every single time it is disassembled.
Really good video. Thanks. Yes, this seems to really be a problem, and also with the design. Besides this the power meter and cranks are great. My pre-load cap is a different one, and "only" one piece although with O-ring. The O-ring is in a different position and constantly did break. I solved for my crank in the end with blue loctite on the threads of the pre-load cap, and seems to work well for me so far. 🤞
My magene crank also came loose around 1000km+ of riding. I followed the instruction but was using the lower limit of torq. Redo everything again using the upper limit torq and it seems to solve the problem.
just wondering why do you have a spacer on the non drive side? as i watched your video, i noticed that the alignment of the crank arm pinch bolt barely overlaps the outer edge of the spindle. what i'm trying to say is that when you insert the crank arm onto the spindle, the crank arm only sits 3/4 deep (crank arm thickness) onto the spindle. that could be a contributory factor for having a loose crank arm as the the arm contact surface on the spindle is not deep enough. as for the pre tension bolt, i really can't understand the purpose of the 6mm bolt inside. this 6mm bolt has a reverse thread, which means when you tighten clockwise from outside, you actually are tightening it against the pre tension bolt and flattening the rubber gasket. the pre tension bolt itself does not expand (i assumed), so only purpose i can think of is increasing friction against the spindle as the gasket expands. theoretically, this can prevent the pre load bolt from coming loose, but i don't know how effective a rubber gasket could be?
If I don’t put the spacer on, the crank arm would scratch my frame (outer area of the BB shell) from the friction caused by the rotating crank arm? Yeah not sure what’s the purpose of the 6mm bolt…
@@OompaLoompaCycling the 6mm bolt is reverse threaded, so when u do it up after the 8mm cap, it squeezes the 8mm cap (6mm moves outwards) to prevent it from loosening. But again, it's useless.☺️
@@OompaLoompaCycling easy test. Check torque of the single M6 bolt after every ride, likelihood of it loosing torque after 100km is high. For instance, if u went with 13nm, it my drop to 10nm, and lower and lower if u don't redo it up. When it's loose enough, the assembly comes loose.
Where did you get that spacer from… when I did the change on mine… I put the spacer on the right side… but only had one… should I had to put it on the left side?
Hello mate thanks for the video. Do you think it is possible that I have some older version of the preload bolt? Because I don't have the part for 6mm hex. Just the one for 10mm.
My crank bolt came off and was lost while riding and I'm having real trouble finding a replacement. Contacting Magene hasn't resulted in being able to get a replacement part either yet. Any suggestions from anyone about an aftermarket replacement or something I could get a bit more quickly here in Australia? I have tried a couple off Amazon so far but the head size has been too big against the inset on the crank itself
@@OompaLoompaCycling I bought on Aliexpress from the official Magene store but I'm not having any luck contacting them. In the meantime my bike is out of commission so I'm looking for a quick fix
this is a third edition so there are 3 different editions so far, first edition is without any rubber ring, second edition is with rubber ring on a machined groove, third edition is with the rubber ring sitting in between a removable bolt From Magene to me
@@OompaLoompaCycling I guess mine must ver 2 with the machined groove as I don't have the last step to the tighten with the 6mm key (not even in the manual). That said, I haven't ridden much with it tho I have had some issues with chain drop on my 105 12 speed mechanical. I tried to put in the 6mm key but realized nothing is there to tighten lol.
@@OompaLoompaCycling got it, thanks, mine should be the gen 2, as i was given 3 rhin rubber O ring but not installed. well , i just installed 1 O -ring to the middle thread groove and see how it goes after 200km
mine still slips with only just almost 90km ride(all torqued to spec, blue loctite.) , im slowly losing hope with the single bolt design on the NDS crank.
@@OompaLoompaCycling havent, and probably i dont want to because the unit is just a few months old and ive only ridden about 300km. im currently talking to the local distributor in my country and they find it also weird. if all else fails il ask them to give me a new unit and probably sell it to get faveros. i hope magene can produce an NDS arm that has 2 bolts on it so that it wont rely on the preload bolt to keep the crankset in place.
Even the first gen single body bolt won't come loose if you install it witch o ring correctly, some TH-cam bike mechanics use that oring on the spindle........of course it will come loose
Wow, 3 iterations of bolts and still not sure if it holds... So far leaning towards Favero after reading the comments - you pay more for a peace of your mind.
Newflash bro. After doing all that you have shown, including the 8mm and 6mm 12nm last step, it will still loosen. 😂 Make sure you apply high strength loctite, especially at the m6 single bolt.
Sounds like a problem with the engineering. I thought putting anti-cease grease would be the advice just so you can disassemble in the future but obviously not.
So the crankarm is kept from falling off by tightening the preload cap to 12 nm? This is absolutely insane! It's an awful and extremely dangerous design, unlike Shimano's original design using two bolts to hold the crankarm in place plus the locking plate. You can even remove the preload cap after installing Shimano crankarms to no ill effect.
Yes, it seems like it could possibly overcome the clamping force of the crank arm pinch bolt and apply too much preload to the bottom bracket bearings.
Literally just installed my Magene PES on my Polygon Helios last night. I had no clue haha. Thank you!
Glad it helped. Love your vids!
How TF is it possible that I don't have this part for 6mm hex just a preload bolt for 10mm . You have this part for 6mm Patrick? I've checked in the box and it's also not there
Could be an older model. See one of the comments in the video. I explained how you could tell between the different models
I have this same power meter, I must have followed the directions. I havent had issues with the cranks coming loose. This was very helpful though!
👍👍👍
This is the new design so O ring doesn’t need to be replaced as often. Mine is the 1st Gen one. And the O ring is in the middle of the threads hence it will definitely break every single time it is disassembled.
Ok thanks for clarifying
Finally found a good assembly video. Ive seen a lot of reddits bout the bolt coming off. Great explanation
Thanks hope this helps
Really good video. Thanks. Yes, this seems to really be a problem, and also with the design. Besides this the power meter and cranks are great. My pre-load cap is a different one, and "only" one piece although with O-ring. The O-ring is in a different position and constantly did break. I solved for my crank in the end with blue loctite on the threads of the pre-load cap, and seems to work well for me so far. 🤞
Great!
KUDOS!!! very useful HELPS... THANKS for your great effort
Thank you hope it helps
The second tightening of the 10mm bolt is very similar to the process on rotor 3d24 cranks.
Ah ok
please keep us updated again after your ride. i got same issue with this power meter too 😂
Did 70k’s just now seems ok. After 500k’s i’ll update again.
@@OompaLoompaCycling any updates?
Hello it didnt come loose after making this video YET
Sitting on TMCR with a dropped crank arm while watching this…
Thanks for sharing 😢
Hahaha damn. Happened to me on tmcr too. Hope this video helps u fix it!
Ooohh..
Thanks for sharing man. I'm glad I'm subscribed to your channel. lol
Thanks brother
My magene crank also came loose around 1000km+ of riding. I followed the instruction but was using the lower limit of torq. Redo everything again using the upper limit torq and it seems to solve the problem.
Nice!
Fwiw in Australia apparently Magene has addressed the problem with a newly designed bolt. Worth contacting Magene if you are still facing problems.
That’s good to know
Thank you for this
✌️
just wondering why do you have a spacer on the non drive side? as i watched your video, i noticed that the alignment of the crank arm pinch bolt barely overlaps the outer edge of the spindle. what i'm trying to say is that when you insert the crank arm onto the spindle, the crank arm only sits 3/4 deep (crank arm thickness) onto the spindle. that could be a contributory factor for having a loose crank arm as the the arm contact surface on the spindle is not deep enough. as for the pre tension bolt, i really can't understand the purpose of the 6mm bolt inside. this 6mm bolt has a reverse thread, which means when you tighten clockwise from outside, you actually are tightening it against the pre tension bolt and flattening the rubber gasket. the pre tension bolt itself does not expand (i assumed), so only purpose i can think of is increasing friction against the spindle as the gasket expands. theoretically, this can prevent the pre load bolt from coming loose, but i don't know how effective a rubber gasket could be?
If I don’t put the spacer on, the crank arm would scratch my frame (outer area of the BB shell) from the friction caused by the rotating crank arm? Yeah not sure what’s the purpose of the 6mm bolt…
@@OompaLoompaCycling the 6mm bolt is reverse threaded, so when u do it up after the 8mm cap, it squeezes the 8mm cap (6mm moves outwards) to prevent it from loosening. But again, it's useless.☺️
As long as it doesn’t come loose!
@@OompaLoompaCycling easy test. Check torque of the single M6 bolt after every ride, likelihood of it loosing torque after 100km is high. For instance, if u went with 13nm, it my drop to 10nm, and lower and lower if u don't redo it up. When it's loose enough, the assembly comes loose.
@81antiloop ok i’ll give it a check
Quite interesting. Lets see how.
Where did you get that spacer from… when I did the change on mine… I put the spacer on the right side… but only had one… should I had to put it on the left side?
Yes give it a try
What is the size pf the O ring?
i just lost the crank bolt of my power meter because the shop i went to probably didn't install it correctly. how would you recommend replacing it?
Contact Magene
What is the purpose of the 2nd internal cap? Doesn’t really make sense.
wow. that's nuts. They want another 10-12nm on the preload bolt? Doesn't that lock up the spin on the crank??
Nah the crank still spins fine
Is the washer on the non drive side specific to your bike? I didn’t get a washer with my power meter?
I think so… or maybe not
Would you all still recommend to use loctite on the screws? And if yes which one?
It should be the single hex bolt that tightens the crank arm to the spindle
@@OompaLoompaCycling i meant which loctite as there are different ones
Hello mate thanks for the video. Do you think it is possible that I have some older version of the preload bolt? Because I don't have the part for 6mm hex. Just the one for 10mm.
@@kubackjeee maybe. When did you get yours?
@@OompaLoompaCycling i bought it a year ago.
@@OompaLoompaCycling th-cam.com/video/ZoYh7CKDdhU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=OHldj2rMhT_EkVKk looks like I have old design like on this movie
Email magene
My crank bolt came off and was lost while riding and I'm having real trouble finding a replacement. Contacting Magene hasn't resulted in being able to get a replacement part either yet. Any suggestions from anyone about an aftermarket replacement or something I could get a bit more quickly here in Australia? I have tried a couple off Amazon so far but the head size has been too big against the inset on the crank itself
Have u contacted the dealer where I bought it from? They should be able to help u
@@OompaLoompaCycling I bought on Aliexpress from the official Magene store but I'm not having any luck contacting them. In the meantime my bike is out of commission so I'm looking for a quick fix
I need a new bolt as well. I didn’t loose mine but I damaged the 6 mm inner bolt 😢
Are there two different version? Mine cannot tighten with 6mm hex key at the last stage.
this is a third edition
so there are 3 different editions so far, first edition is without any rubber ring, second edition is with rubber ring on a machined groove, third edition is with the rubber ring sitting in between a removable bolt
From Magene to me
@@OompaLoompaCycling I guess mine must ver 2 with the machined groove as I don't have the last step to the tighten with the 6mm key (not even in the manual). That said, I haven't ridden much with it tho I have had some issues with chain drop on my 105 12 speed mechanical. I tried to put in the 6mm key but realized nothing is there to tighten lol.
I must got the first edition. The crank arm does lose from time to time. It has been using over 1000km.
@@OompaLoompaCycling got it, thanks, mine should be the gen 2, as i was given 3 rhin rubber O ring but not installed. well , i just installed 1 O -ring to the middle thread groove and see how it goes after 200km
Is this compatible with 12 speed shimano ultegra?
Yes
mine still slips with only just almost 90km ride(all torqued to spec, blue loctite.) , im slowly losing hope with the single bolt design on the NDS crank.
That's frustrating! Have you tried tightening the bolt any further?
@@OompaLoompaCycling havent, and probably i dont want to because the unit is just a few months old and ive only ridden about 300km. im currently talking to the local distributor in my country and they find it also weird. if all else fails il ask them to give me a new unit and probably sell it to get faveros. i hope magene can produce an NDS arm that has 2 bolts on it so that it wont rely on the preload bolt to keep the crankset in place.
Even the first gen single body bolt won't come loose if you install it witch o ring correctly, some TH-cam bike mechanics use that oring on the spindle........of course it will come loose
Why would anyone do that
What’s the correct way to install the O-rings? Mid of thread?
Like in the video
Wow, 3 iterations of bolts and still not sure if it holds... So far leaning towards Favero after reading the comments - you pay more for a peace of your mind.
FYI, after I did this (before seeing this video), absolutely no issues since.
@whynotride327 great!!!
What can I do if I lost the cap?!😭
Email Magene?
Did you get a new cap from magene?
I had the same issue but its my fault because I did not really read the instructions.
Haha yeah even I didn’t bother reading the manual initially
Newflash bro. After doing all that you have shown, including the 8mm and 6mm 12nm last step, it will still loosen. 😂 Make sure you apply high strength loctite, especially at the m6 single bolt.
This right here ☝️
Damnn thanks for the tip
Sounds like a problem with the engineering. I thought putting anti-cease grease would be the advice just so you can disassemble in the future but obviously not.
So the crankarm is kept from falling off by tightening the preload cap to 12 nm? This is absolutely insane! It's an awful and extremely dangerous design, unlike Shimano's original design using two bolts to hold the crankarm in place plus the locking plate. You can even remove the preload cap after installing Shimano crankarms to no ill effect.
Yes, it seems like it could possibly overcome the clamping force of the crank arm pinch bolt and apply too much preload to the bottom bracket bearings.
6:20 u said about spacer. it is incloude in magene package with pes 505?
Yes
Really ? I didn't even use the smaller nut. I don't have issue at all
Lucky u
Comment section is wild. I guess the problem is more common
It’s everywhere on the internet. Either there is an actual design flaw or people are installing it wrongly