The FW Update process looks a bit involved. You need "LG GSFS" access where you should find firmware updates. They need to flashed with a special dongle called "FLD2". Maybe they include changelogs and reference what has been fixed, not sure.
And one more thing: The jumper settings right next to the display look like they are all set to off. This means it's running in compatibility mode for Gen2 indoor indoor units. If all indoor units are newer than 07/2016 jumper 3 should be set to on.
Thanks again for creating these video presentations. If you did add oil back to the system how would you determine the amount and would you use a pump? I study your work for my own benefit. Medic467, WA state.
Great video!!! Overtime 🥹🥹🥹. Great leak find! Had one of those hard to reach leaks on a Daikin VRV. Hate VRV’s because they are always installed by your local plumber 🤩🤩🤩🫣🫣🫣who knows NOTHING about HVAC-R. Looking forward to the repair video.
Thank you brother! Leaks can be hard to find. Especially in places like the one found. Luckily but unluckily it was so large so I could actually hear it. I hear that! Not a fan of VRV's either. Over complicated and constant issues. Local plumber haha stay tuned for the follow up video this Saturday! Stay safe out there & thanks for watching 🔧⚡️
I used to believe in everything made, LG. (Life’s Good). Thought they were so.. energy efficient, all & everything! Hmm. Seems.. lots of possible poor design, faulty parts/boards, etc. & from where.. (China)!? But.. No in-side Maintenance Certainly doesn’t help anything, either!! Great Vid. Jumper Man Tech.👍
I ran into this a couple times, decided I wouldnt get that brazed up without damaging the valve internals. Just order the valve or use a third party 208v in a real pinch. Might as well add a shrader in there for future work so you can isolate the condenser.
Gotta add PVE oil buddy, also gotta have a magnetic solenoid to open that solenoid when you braze so you won’t plug the upper and lower EEVs. Good luck on this one, it’ll be a bit of a headache.
Thank you for the advice! Def a headache. I see it needs PVE oil and a viscosity of 80 but no other information. Tech support just said to call my parts provider and there is only one and they don't answer emails or phone calls. Is there something you recommend? Thank you. Thanks for watching & commenting! 🙏🔧⚡️
@@JumpermanTech you should get it from Klima NY or NJ, I got it from their NJ branch last month. I work on these systems everyday so I deal with them a lot. I can’t stress enough about flowing nitro and opening solenoids with the CPS magnets though. Good luck and let me know if you need help with any questions.
@mwdub02 @mwdub02 Correct. Klima is the only distributor and they have poor communication. Never answer the phone and it takes a long time to hear back from email. When we need parts, it's right away and it's sad they are just not avaliable unless the building stocks up on things. Thank you for your advice! I have solenoid magnets and appreciate the info!
@mwdub02 @mwdub02 Thank you for that info! Idk why they said that either and wouldn't allow me to talk to tech support as I wasn't on site during the time of the call. I did some research online and found that exact oil. I picked up 32oz earlier today from a local HVAC supplier. Really appreciate it brother. I always run nitro when brazing. That creates so much damage in these systems. Changing the compressor, inverter board and adding some oil tomorrow in hopes to get them going. I fixed the leak the other day but the compressor failed mechanically even though it checked out electrically. We don't have a new solenoid valve and I told them to wait for the parts but they need it asap and are willing to pay to see what happens so I'll do my best. Thank you for watching & commenting! 🔧⚡️
Bru I feel sorry for those people who invested all that money in a top of the line VRV system thinking they were doing the right thing? All to have a mickkey mouse company install it such a shame. And yes it alway recommended to replace the inverter board with those compressors as that board is the contactor!
I think here in TN they see all that oil and just replace the whole unit. We dont have troubleshooters. Billy bob puts a new unit on his back and climbs up 10 stoires....few hook ups this that and badda bing badda bang its in the bag as they say in New Yawk.
For New York City you need to have two licenses from the fire department. F60 (Torch use of flammable gases) & G60 (Fire guard). Both need to be on site and both need to have the licenses to perform any hot work such as brazing or soldering. Thanks for watching!
P.S. Additional Comment. I’ve seen introduction booklets from China, example (for a VCR, etc.) where the instructions, literally ended halfway thru. the instructions! Buying some of their electronics also. Either cheap made & don’t even include chargers (the other half of the system) when selling, lol. Ugh! Geese..
Most likely the unit failed due to the leak and loss of oil. Came back for the following visit to fix the leak & the compressor failed mechanically even though it checked out electrically. Locked rotor. Now it's double the work. Thanks for watching🔧⚡️
@sherwinalvarez7365 Should have replaced the compressor while the gas was out. We fixed the leak and the compressor failed mechanically enough though it checked out electrically. Locked rotor 🤦♂️ considering how many compressor failures there have been here, not surprised. Should've replaced it but it was worth a shot to start it up since it checked out electrically. Thanks for watching! 🤙🔧⚡️
I would've thought the system would lock itself out long before oil becomes a problem. You might want to check with your LG Tool if there are Firmware Updates available for those machines. According to LGs marketing the Multi V should even have oil level sensors to make sure this doesn't happen. EDIT: Maybe the previous company disabled oil level sensing or something?
@tschuuuls486 I agree with you. Everytime there's an error, in house engineers reset the units which isn't good so that maybe played a role but if the low pressure or high pressure sensor is open, nothing should start and protect the compressor. Yes, there is an oil sensor built in the compressor and has 2 wires. That should have protected the compressor too, but it didn't. Definitely something needs to be checked here and dive deeper into what happened here. What good are all these safeties if they aren't protecting what it should? Thanks for watching & your comment! Stay tuned for new videos every week 🔧⚡️
Yes, you need a license from the NYC fire department for "Torch use of flammable gases" & "fire guard". Both the torch operator and fire guard need both licenses. A licensed HVAC usually means having your EPA Section 608 Universal license but that has nothing to do with hot work. Usually you also need a hot work permit from the fire department but many don't do that. Thanks for watching! 🔧⚡️
The troubleshooting steps for CH42/43 are very misleading. They should of made one of the reasons that the unit ran out of refrigerant and to check pressures before assuming the low/high pressure sensor is bad. Though just because all of the refrigerant leaked out, doesn't mean that the compressor needs changed. We had an EEV leak out of its head completely and the compressors still ran fine after replacing the EEV and recharging, though that was on a system with more than one outdoor unit connected together. When trying to find a leak on the ODU side, it's best to close off the service valves and connect your guages to the ports inside the unit(Not where the service valves are) so that way you do not waste nitrogen on the indoor unit piping.
I looked this up and the unit thought the hp/lp pressure sensor failed and it didn't run out of refrigerant. The board will calculate superheat etc. to cross-vaidate the sensors. Unit thought the sensor died, ran the compressor and killed itself. There are seperate error codes for hp, lp/loss of charge. Sounds like a critical firmware bug to me.
@@tschuuuls486 Yeah, that's one thing I've noticed during slow refrigerant leaks that it continues to try running, even with all IDU's at fully open EEV(1350 steps), and it doesn't error out until it gets critically low. There is an error for low refrigerant pressures(CH 35), but I've never seen it go off on this error before something else happens from low pressures.
@@Rodj12341 This sounds very broken. I'm not a tech at all just was curious. You could look into "LG GSFS" where you should find firmware updates. They need to flashed with a special dongle called "FLD2". Maybe they include changelogs and reference those issues?
You using megger wrong. When you holding that button - you should run 1 minutes and 10 minutes tests. It is not for testing whether motor failed, but for the maintenance records, to monitor and/or predicting when motor going to fail. To test whether motor or circuit has failed - you press test button for 1-2 seconds, and device will do it automatically.
The problem with motor prediction is you need the new installed numbers to compare to the current numbers so that test doenst mean much otherwise. It told him the windings were ok, proceed.
They are not so great and come with a lot of problems but there is no maintenance for the indoor units connected to these outdoor units. Definitely playing a huge role as well. Thanks for watching! 🔧⚡️
We love the shots of the NYC skyline. Thank you!
Glad you do! It does look really nice. You're very welcome & thanks for watching🙏🔧⚡️🤙
I just had a peek in the service manual. The unit should go into lockout when high pressure is >581PSI or low pressure
The FW Update process looks a bit involved. You need "LG GSFS" access where you should find firmware updates. They need to flashed with a special dongle called "FLD2". Maybe they include changelogs and reference what has been fixed, not sure.
And one more thing: The jumper settings right next to the display look like they are all set to off. This means it's running in compatibility mode for Gen2 indoor indoor units. If all indoor units are newer than 07/2016 jumper 3 should be set to on.
@@tschuuuls486 Nice leg work on this.
Thanks again for creating these video presentations. If you did add oil back to the system how would you determine the amount and would you use a pump? I study your work for my own benefit. Medic467, WA state.
Jumper Man Tech, you really know your trade, and I really enjoy your videos.
Beautiful Skyline... Film the repair please ... Excellent vid JMT ... Thx
Very thorough job! Nice
Thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week🙏🔧⚡️
Awesome troubleshooting
Thank you my friend! Thanks for watching 🙏🔧⚡️
Great video!!! Overtime 🥹🥹🥹. Great leak find! Had one of those hard to reach leaks on a Daikin VRV. Hate VRV’s because they are always installed by your local plumber 🤩🤩🤩🫣🫣🫣who knows NOTHING about HVAC-R. Looking forward to the repair video.
Thank you brother! Leaks can be hard to find. Especially in places like the one found. Luckily but unluckily it was so large so I could actually hear it. I hear that! Not a fan of VRV's either. Over complicated and constant issues. Local plumber haha stay tuned for the follow up video this Saturday! Stay safe out there & thanks for watching 🔧⚡️
Think of the bright side..... you don't need to condemn the building this time. LOL
Next time 😂😂 Thanks for watching!
Good job Jumper.......
Thank you!! 🙏🔧⚡️
Just saw your truck on the service road of the LIE today by lefrak 💪
Haha that's awesome. Queens get the money! 😂🔧⚡️ Say hello next time & stay tuned for new videos every week! Enjoy your weekend brother 🤙
@JumpermanTech will do bro. I was trying but i was in the middle lane on the 495. love the videos. keep up.the good work! 💪🏽
Superb video thank's again lads 💯👍👍👍
Thank you brother! Much appreciated 🙏🔧⚡️🤙
Nice work Jumper man.
Thank you very much!! 🙏🔧⚡️🤙
I used to believe in everything made, LG. (Life’s Good). Thought they were so.. energy efficient, all & everything!
Hmm. Seems.. lots of possible poor design, faulty parts/boards, etc. & from where.. (China)!? But.. No in-side Maintenance Certainly doesn’t help anything, either!!
Great Vid. Jumper Man Tech.👍
I ran into this a couple times, decided I wouldnt get that brazed up without damaging the valve internals. Just order the valve or use a third party 208v in a real pinch. Might as well add a shrader in there for future work so you can isolate the condenser.
A building like that should have a set of compressors on stand by as well as sensor kits and inverter boards.
Great video. Thank you for sharing. Have a nice weekend. What is name apps you're using on phone ? is the apps work for all brand VRF unit ?
good job my man
Thank you brother! Thanks for watching 🔧⚡️
Lol 🤣 you know you been hvacing too long when you can smell it
The LG cash cows!
💯💯💯 Facts! Thanks for watching🔧⚡️
Excellent diagnostics. Just on monday we changed the compressor on a Mitsubishi city multi. But we don’t have such beautiful views.😂😂
Gotta add PVE oil buddy, also gotta have a magnetic solenoid to open that solenoid when you braze so you won’t plug the upper and lower EEVs. Good luck on this one, it’ll be a bit of a headache.
Thank you for the advice! Def a headache. I see it needs PVE oil and a viscosity of 80 but no other information. Tech support just said to call my parts provider and there is only one and they don't answer emails or phone calls. Is there something you recommend? Thank you. Thanks for watching & commenting! 🙏🔧⚡️
@@JumpermanTech you should get it from Klima NY or NJ, I got it from their NJ branch last month. I work on these systems everyday so I deal with them a lot. I can’t stress enough about flowing nitro and opening solenoids with the CPS magnets though. Good luck and let me know if you need help with any questions.
The oil is FVC68D that’s viscosity of 68, you can find at the supply house website. I don’t know why they told you 80.
@mwdub02 @mwdub02 Correct. Klima is the only distributor and they have poor communication. Never answer the phone and it takes a long time to hear back from email. When we need parts, it's right away and it's sad they are just not avaliable unless the building stocks up on things. Thank you for your advice! I have solenoid magnets and appreciate the info!
@mwdub02 @mwdub02 Thank you for that info! Idk why they said that either and wouldn't allow me to talk to tech support as I wasn't on site during the time of the call. I did some research online and found that exact oil. I picked up 32oz earlier today from a local HVAC supplier. Really appreciate it brother. I always run nitro when brazing. That creates so much damage in these systems. Changing the compressor, inverter board and adding some oil tomorrow in hopes to get them going. I fixed the leak the other day but the compressor failed mechanically even though it checked out electrically. We don't have a new solenoid valve and I told them to wait for the parts but they need it asap and are willing to pay to see what happens so I'll do my best. Thank you for watching & commenting! 🔧⚡️
Bru I feel sorry for those people who invested all that money in a top of the line VRV system thinking they were doing the right thing? All to have a mickkey mouse company install it such a shame. And yes it alway recommended to replace the inverter board with those compressors as that board is the contactor!
Haha the way you said "thats oil"
😂😂😂 New York style. Thanks for watching! 🙏🔧⚡️
I think here in TN they see all that oil and just replace the whole unit. We dont have troubleshooters. Billy bob puts a new unit on his back and climbs up 10 stoires....few hook ups this that and badda bing badda bang its in the bag as they say in New Yawk.
The sun is going down 😂
The sun is going down while the bank account is going up 😎🤙🔧⚡️ Thanks for watching!
What do you mean license torch operator and fire guard license?
For New York City you need to have two licenses from the fire department. F60 (Torch use of flammable gases) & G60 (Fire guard). Both need to be on site and both need to have the licenses to perform any hot work such as brazing or soldering. Thanks for watching!
Pls post the follow up video.❤
What app or website is that to look up the error codes?
"LG HVAC SERVICE-BUSINESS" app. Its a MUST to have when working on any type of LG units. Thanks for watching! 🔧⚡️
Supertech job jmt
Thank you brother!! Thanks for watching🙏🔧⚡️
😻💚💜💚
🩷🔧⚡️
P.S. Additional Comment. I’ve seen introduction booklets from China, example (for a VCR, etc.) where the instructions, literally ended halfway thru. the instructions! Buying some of their electronics also. Either cheap made & don’t even include chargers (the other half of the system) when selling, lol. Ugh! Geese..
Low Pressure, here we go!
Here we go!! 💰🤙🔧⚡️
Thanks for watching!
Why would you change the compressor and inverter board for a leak? Pull it out, drain it and refill to factory amount..
Oh yeah?
Most likely the unit failed due to the leak and loss of oil. Came back for the following visit to fix the leak & the compressor failed mechanically even though it checked out electrically. Locked rotor. Now it's double the work. Thanks for watching🔧⚡️
@sherwinalvarez7365 Should have replaced the compressor while the gas was out. We fixed the leak and the compressor failed mechanically enough though it checked out electrically. Locked rotor 🤦♂️ considering how many compressor failures there have been here, not surprised. Should've replaced it but it was worth a shot to start it up since it checked out electrically. Thanks for watching! 🤙🔧⚡️
I would've thought the system would lock itself out long before oil becomes a problem. You might want to check with your LG Tool if there are Firmware Updates available for those machines. According to LGs marketing the Multi V should even have oil level sensors to make sure this doesn't happen. EDIT: Maybe the previous company disabled oil level sensing or something?
@tschuuuls486 I agree with you. Everytime there's an error, in house engineers reset the units which isn't good so that maybe played a role but if the low pressure or high pressure sensor is open, nothing should start and protect the compressor. Yes, there is an oil sensor built in the compressor and has 2 wires. That should have protected the compressor too, but it didn't. Definitely something needs to be checked here and dive deeper into what happened here. What good are all these safeties if they aren't protecting what it should? Thanks for watching & your comment! Stay tuned for new videos every week 🔧⚡️
Using the torch needs to be licensed? I thought if an ac technician is licensed, he can use torch.....
Yes, you need a license from the NYC fire department for "Torch use of flammable gases" & "fire guard". Both the torch operator and fire guard need both licenses. A licensed HVAC usually means having your EPA Section 608 Universal license but that has nothing to do with hot work. Usually you also need a hot work permit from the fire department but many don't do that. Thanks for watching! 🔧⚡️
Yes, I know that smell and it's not nice
💯💯💯 Facts! Thanks for watching 🤙🔧⚡️
The troubleshooting steps for CH42/43 are very misleading. They should of made one of the reasons that the unit ran out of refrigerant and to check pressures before assuming the low/high pressure sensor is bad. Though just because all of the refrigerant leaked out, doesn't mean that the compressor needs changed. We had an EEV leak out of its head completely and the compressors still ran fine after replacing the EEV and recharging, though that was on a system with more than one outdoor unit connected together.
When trying to find a leak on the ODU side, it's best to close off the service valves and connect your guages to the ports inside the unit(Not where the service valves are) so that way you do not waste nitrogen on the indoor unit piping.
It ran all the oil out of it...thats never a good sign.
I looked this up and the unit thought the hp/lp pressure sensor failed and it didn't run out of refrigerant. The board will calculate superheat etc. to cross-vaidate the sensors. Unit thought the sensor died, ran the compressor and killed itself. There are seperate error codes for hp, lp/loss of charge. Sounds like a critical firmware bug to me.
@@tschuuuls486 Yeah, that's one thing I've noticed during slow refrigerant leaks that it continues to try running, even with all IDU's at fully open EEV(1350 steps), and it doesn't error out until it gets critically low. There is an error for low refrigerant pressures(CH 35), but I've never seen it go off on this error before something else happens from low pressures.
@@Rodj12341 This sounds very broken. I'm not a tech at all just was curious. You could look into "LG GSFS" where you should find firmware updates. They need to flashed with a special dongle called "FLD2". Maybe they include changelogs and reference those issues?
The girlfriend calling is so real
Next time isolate the condenser from the ball valve
You using megger wrong.
When you holding that button - you should run 1 minutes and 10 minutes tests. It is not for testing whether motor failed, but for the maintenance records, to monitor and/or predicting when motor going to fail.
To test whether motor or circuit has failed - you press test button for 1-2 seconds, and device will do it automatically.
I dont think those hand helds can go the 10 mins.
@@oldblueaccord2629 They do. There’s even the “hold button”. Just need to make sure that batteries are fresh.
The problem with motor prediction is you need the new installed numbers to compare to the current numbers so that test doenst mean much otherwise. It told him the windings were ok, proceed.
@@oldblueaccord2629 Well - he was holding the button, and that’s not how regular “quick test” is done.
Those units seem like garbage
They are not so great and come with a lot of problems but there is no maintenance for the indoor units connected to these outdoor units. Definitely playing a huge role as well. Thanks for watching! 🔧⚡️
God that looks miserable
Oh it's a nightmare 😂🔧⚡️
Thanks for watching! 🔧⚡️