After a day of troubleshooting and scratching my head of what else can possibly be wrong, I decided to delay or postponed this project, however I'd keep researching for clues.
I know this video is old, but since I had the same issue and I finally fixed my subwoofer, I like to share my findings. It's that C860 capacitor that caused my subwoofer to have no sound, it's a film capacitor 0.082uF 5% tolerance and 50V. I just replaced it and everything is working well. Also I had A similar issue about 2 years ago with the same sub, and replacing R830 and R831 fixed it for me, it looks like these are the most commun issues with this sub.
I hope you do. There's guys out there looking for these toasted like this so they can fix them for a couple bucks and have a perfectly good subwoofer. I'm in the process of repairing two of mine. found the resistors and cap bad too. Just ordered the parts last night. Mine both worked fine for 7 years with my old setup where I used my Surge Protector/Filter to switch them on, rather than use the sensor which I thought was poor. It would switch off in middle of a movie and would switch on half way through an explosion. But my new setup didn't allow this configuration and I had to rely on the sensor again or leave them turned on. It was shortly after I blew both out. Anyway, I recommend either being diligent at switching them on/off manually or using some type of automatic external switching. I use a PureAV PF60 which has switchable outlets. Good luck!
+LYPOI can you provide me the link of were i could buy the the same spec resistors? also what is the difference despite the obvious? from 4.7 ohms to 10 ohms when the rest of the specs remains the same 1.4 watts 5%.
In my SA-WX700 the problem was the capacitor. It had a small hole burned in it and a much larger hole burned in the insulation around the wires that were pressing against it. I couldn't find a 0.12uF capacitor at the store I went to so I got a 0.1uF mylar/film one. I put it in and the subwoofer works again.
Did you fix this in the end? The resistors you fitted aren't really suitable. I appreciate they're both fairly low ohmic values but there could be other sensing circuitry that relies on them being 4.7ohm. You could have used four of them and put two each in parrallel to get 5 ohms but, again, that's not suitable as both of the resistors you removed are fusible, this is important. Standard carbon and metal film resistors (and wirewound for that matter) can have pretty destructive results when large currents fry them. They'll blacken the board, ruin the track traces and leave you with a real headache. The resistors you had in your last video weren't 4.7ohm they were 4.7k (4700 ohms). You need to find some 4.7ohm fusisble resistors first (get more than you need as they're cheap). Obviously something is drawing too much current further on down the line. Did you replace the capacitor as well? Just because it looks ok doesn't mean it hasn't become 'leaky'. I'd replace that as a matter of course. It's a 0.082uF (82 nanafarad) 100v film cap.
I see that there’s a lot of people that are very interested in this subwoofer and very sought after. Due to popular demand I will revisit this repair and do another video . But first I need help from you guys. 1: where can I go on the internet and find what I need? Capacitor, resistors etc. the places I checked didn’t have the resistors in stock or none at all. 2: schematics. Other than randomly browsing the internet. What website can I go to or where I get a hold of a schematics when I need one. 3: With some help from you guys, together we can make this repair happen.. I’m looking forward to this.
Underdog Studioz Good work! At first I didn’t know where to start from, I couldn’t find a service manual and only saw schematics of it, then I started reading the forums and found out that is a common issue. I searched for parts but with no luck, so I proceeded to work with what I had at time, which by the way is very tedious work searching for bad caps or resistor one at a time with a fluke meter. I got frustrated for the lack of resources and parts.. I’m thinking of reviving this project again maybe this weekend .. Thanks 👍🏻
I would be looking for the two resistors and capacitor this week and try to fix it. If it dont work, then Im using it as a bass with a car amplifier for my Prius.
From the AVS forum: Apparently there is multiple versions of the service manual for this sub. Finally finding the latest version, Ver 1.3 2004.06 (Revision History states "Correction of C860 Part No. and capacity."). So for the record: C860 Part No. 1-136-164-00 FILM 0.082uF 5% 50V (note that this is microfarad). From me: You must use the correct value resistor! Higher wattage is fine. I just ordered 10 pcs, Nissei 0.082uf 50V film capacitors on eBay getting shipped from Asia for $5.94. Also, 60 pcs 4.7 ohm 1/2W resistors from Asia for $2.76. Will let you know how I make out.
The parts arrived from Taiwan and China, less than $10 for 60 resistors and 10 capacitors. It took hour to carefully heat the white glop with a heat gun, scrape it off the back of the board, and get the capacitor and resistor connections accessible. Another 30 min to solder in the 2 1/2W resistors and capacitor plus another 30 min to reassemble into the case. Also found what appeared to be a poor solder joint on the main power transistor. Had no solder on the top of the board, center pin. Not sure if that was any of the problem but it works! My board has the C860 soldered under the board with one lead between 2 diodes. This was a very tricky soldering job!!!
Well I can't say what the resistors do in this circuit but a 4.7 ohm resistor verses a 10 ohm resistor will restrict current flow (amperes) to less than half that of the 4.7 ohm. The voltage rating is simply the maximum allowable voltage the resistor can handle without damaging it. And the 5% tolerance is basically how well built it is. For example a 10 ohm resistor with a 5% tolerance might have a variance from 9.5 ohms to 10.5 ohms from the factory. So as you can see a 5.3 ohm difference is over 100% variance. Totally unacceptable from an electronic perspective.
You do realize that you can't just toss in any old resistor. There is a huge difference between 4.7 ohms and 10 ohms. The spec you need is 4.7 Ohms 1/4w 5% tolerance. Also check the capacitor in location 860. It's a .82uf 50v 5% tolerance capacitor. Check this forum thread for details: www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/944798-how-troubleshoot-sony-sa-wx700.html#/enter
+LYPOI . I figured the difference between the ohms was huge, although I said otherwise, I was told and convinced that the difference between the two was negligible . I may revisit this project and post a follow up very soon . thanks for the link and most for leaving a comment .. stay tuned .
+MvP4eVa1 As for the links, how about this. I ended up ordering 10 sets of components just how they were packaged. I definitely don't need 10 sets, so how about when mine arrive, I'll install them to make sure they work. When they do, I'll drop a set in the mail for you. Consider it a gift.
RobTapps88 I never read the code at all. The resistor size/tolerance was from a Sony repair manual. I ordered parts with the same specs as the Sony part. I replaced them in both my subs and the both work like new again. So I'm pretty sure I got it right.
I know this video is old, but since I had the same issue and I finally fixed my subwoofer, I like to share my findings. It's that C860 capacitor that caused my subwoofer to have no sound, it's a film capacitor 0.082uF 5% tolerance and 50V. I just replaced it and everything is working well. Also I had A similar issue about 2 years ago with the same sub, and replacing R830 and R831 fixed it for me, it looks like these are the most commun issues with this sub.
Appreciate the time and effort you put into documenting all of this. I have the same problem. Did you ever get it fixed? Was it in fact the resistors?
I hope you do. There's guys out there looking for these toasted like this so they can fix them for a couple bucks and have a perfectly good subwoofer.
I'm in the process of repairing two of mine. found the resistors and cap bad too. Just ordered the parts last night.
Mine both worked fine for 7 years with my old setup where I used my Surge Protector/Filter to switch them on, rather than use the sensor which I thought was poor. It would switch off in middle of a movie and would switch on half way through an explosion. But my new setup didn't allow this configuration and I had to rely on the sensor again or leave them turned on. It was shortly after I blew both out.
Anyway, I recommend either being diligent at switching them on/off manually or using some type of automatic external switching. I use a PureAV PF60 which has switchable outlets.
Good luck!
+LYPOI can you provide me the link of were i could buy the the same spec resistors? also what is the difference despite the obvious? from 4.7 ohms to 10 ohms when the rest of the specs remains the same 1.4 watts 5%.
In my SA-WX700 the problem was the capacitor. It had a small hole burned in it and a much larger hole burned in the insulation around the wires that were pressing against it. I couldn't find a 0.12uF capacitor at the store I went to so I got a 0.1uF mylar/film one. I put it in and the subwoofer works again.
Did you fix this in the end? The resistors you fitted aren't really suitable. I appreciate they're both fairly low ohmic values but there could be other sensing circuitry that relies on them being 4.7ohm. You could have used four of them and put two each in parrallel to get 5 ohms but, again, that's not suitable as both of the resistors you removed are fusible, this is important. Standard carbon and metal film resistors (and wirewound for that matter) can have pretty destructive results when large currents fry them. They'll blacken the board, ruin the track traces and leave you with a real headache.
The resistors you had in your last video weren't 4.7ohm they were 4.7k (4700 ohms). You need to find some 4.7ohm fusisble resistors first (get more than you need as they're cheap). Obviously something is drawing too much current further on down the line. Did you replace the capacitor as well? Just because it looks ok doesn't mean it hasn't become 'leaky'. I'd replace that as a matter of course. It's a 0.082uF (82 nanafarad) 100v film cap.
I see that there’s a lot of people that are very interested in this subwoofer and very sought after. Due to popular demand I will revisit this repair and do another video .
But first I need help from you guys.
1: where can I go on the internet and find what I need? Capacitor, resistors etc. the places I checked didn’t have the resistors in stock or none at all.
2: schematics. Other than randomly browsing the internet. What website can I go to or where I get a hold of a schematics when I need one.
3: With some help from you guys, together we can make this repair happen.. I’m looking forward to this.
Hi!! I got one of this subwoofers too! I think this could help! th-cam.com/video/aYMYI-MXwNQ/w-d-xo.html
Underdog Studioz Good work! At first I didn’t know where to start from, I couldn’t find a service manual and only saw schematics of it, then I started reading the forums and found out that is a common issue. I searched for parts but with no luck, so I proceeded to work with what I had at time, which by the way is very tedious work searching for bad caps or resistor one at a time with a fluke meter. I got frustrated for the lack of resources and parts.. I’m thinking of reviving this project again maybe this weekend ..
Thanks 👍🏻
I would be looking for the two resistors and capacitor this week and try to fix it. If it dont work, then Im using it as a bass with a car amplifier for my Prius.
I'd like too know how too fix this sub as well . mine does the same exact as urs does.. keep us posted man
I replaced same but still no sound only green light on. Please keep me updated if found solution. I likewise.
do you have the thiel small parameters for the drivers? I can't find them anywhere. I need to make a new box for mine.
From the AVS forum: Apparently there is multiple versions of the service manual for this sub. Finally finding the latest version, Ver 1.3 2004.06 (Revision History states "Correction of C860 Part No. and capacity."). So for the record:
C860 Part No. 1-136-164-00 FILM 0.082uF 5% 50V (note that this is microfarad). From me: You must use the correct value resistor! Higher wattage is fine. I just ordered 10 pcs, Nissei 0.082uf 50V film capacitors on eBay getting shipped from Asia for $5.94. Also, 60 pcs 4.7 ohm 1/2W resistors from Asia for $2.76. Will let you know how I make out.
The parts arrived from Taiwan and China, less than $10 for 60 resistors and 10 capacitors. It took hour to carefully heat the white glop with a heat gun, scrape it off the back of the board, and get the capacitor and resistor connections accessible. Another 30 min to solder in the 2 1/2W resistors and capacitor plus another 30 min to reassemble into the case. Also found what appeared to be a poor solder joint on the main power transistor. Had no solder on the top of the board, center pin. Not sure if that was any of the problem but it works! My board has the C860 soldered under the board with one lead between 2 diodes. This was a very tricky soldering job!!!
when the resistor is woo wide... fold one end over so the resistor stands vertically..
Well I can't say what the resistors do in this circuit but a 4.7 ohm resistor verses a 10 ohm resistor will restrict current flow (amperes) to less than half that of the 4.7 ohm. The voltage rating is simply the maximum allowable voltage the resistor can handle without damaging it. And the 5% tolerance is basically how well built it is. For example a 10 ohm resistor with a 5% tolerance might have a variance from 9.5 ohms to 10.5 ohms from the factory. So as you can see a 5.3 ohm difference is over 100% variance. Totally unacceptable from an electronic perspective.
You do realize that you can't just toss in any old resistor. There is a huge difference between 4.7 ohms and 10 ohms. The spec you need is 4.7 Ohms 1/4w 5% tolerance. Also check the capacitor in location 860. It's a .82uf 50v 5% tolerance capacitor. Check this forum thread for details: www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/944798-how-troubleshoot-sony-sa-wx700.html#/enter
+LYPOI . I figured the difference between the ohms was huge, although I said otherwise, I was told and convinced that the difference between the two was negligible . I may revisit this project and post a follow up very soon . thanks for the link and most for leaving a comment .. stay tuned .
+MvP4eVa1
As for the links, how about this. I ended up ordering 10 sets of components just how they were packaged. I definitely don't need 10 sets, so how about when mine arrive, I'll install them to make sure they work. When they do, I'll drop a set in the mail for you. Consider it a gift.
would you be interested in selling me a set?
LYPOI you read the resistor code wrong... those are 100 ohm resistors.. WAY off from 4.7 lol (Brown =1, Black =0, Black =0, Gold = tolerance)
RobTapps88
I never read the code at all. The resistor size/tolerance was from a Sony repair manual. I ordered parts with the same specs as the Sony part. I replaced them in both my subs and the both work like new again. So I'm pretty sure I got it right.