Instead of the waxing, my teacher told me to heat up or steam a mandrel (or mandrel pin in pin vise). Then, I put that in the tube, and let that sit for at least two weeks. I put on the wires before wrapping, I bevel the inner tube with sandpaper, I soak the cane for 4 hours before, I don't cross hatch, I score five marks on the bark(ish?) not all the way through ("roughening up"), I wrap the blank from the base to halfway up the blade,and I don't do hand gouging in the tube. I'm going to try out your method and see how it works out! I just ordered 10 pieces of gsp Vandoren cane (expensive, but I saw great reviews about its consistency). So great to learn more tips about reed making!
Wow! I've never scored completely through the cane...deeply into, but not through. Gonna try that on a batch once I get back "in the saddle". Thanks for the volume of time and information you're sharing, Eryn. I'm really enjoying the material. Super motivated.
I love your videos and they are very helpful! I do need help though. I have been having trouble with splitting when forming my reeds. what can I do to prevent this?
+Sarah Haines HELLO! The day you left this comment I just started an outline on this. Look for an upcoming video full of suggestions. Until then, you might try looking at changing the way you score a reed. This can also help darken the tone colors of a reed. Here's a link to a blog post erynoft.com/2015/06/21/darken-a-bassoon-reed-forming/. Subscribe so you don't miss my video dedicated to your question! :) And Happy Reed Making!
Thanks for making these videos. It's nice to see what other people are doing. I am going to try some of these tips. I never knew it was possible to over-soak the cane, and that perhaps that is why my reeds keep cracking. This is SUCH an expensive hobby! It's also nice to see someone suggest to NOT score down the center of the bark. I was taught (20+ years ago) that the center score is to be the longest and deepest, and that is NOT working for me! So, I may try a short, not deep score, or none at all, like you suggest, down the center.
Please let me know how you get along with the new scoring options! I find Hard cane is more likely to split, too. Softer cane is more pliable. Have you tried working with different brands and styles to see if it alters the challenges of cracking the tube? Thanks for keeping up with my bassoon adventures!
Don't know if you have ever tried it, but I bypass the one hour soaking by microwaving cane for 7 minutes. Essentially softening the cane faster through heated water from the microwave.
I have been having a problem with splitting when shaping my reed. what can I do? I've watched your video several times and I'm still having trouble. please help me!
Another Great Video :) Because I prefer more live or wild vibration from rather small and Thin reed, I only soak cane about 10-15 minutes.(I like hard cane because more I deep it in water, I think the finer loosens.) I used to score entire area but I'm gonna try your method that side bevel.(Good point there) I use two mandrel : Rieger Forming mandrel, Rieger regular mandrel Forming mandrel has bigger diameter than regular mandrel which helps because I bevel the entire tube and aggressive short bevel which shrinks the tube size. I never had triangular tube without cross hatch but I think I might have crushed more with rieger plier I guess.(or because I score whole tube which makes more control?!) Because I'm kinda lazy or try to make efficient, I don't do twine but make 4wires on the drying rack until beveling and also finish as 4 wires.( I used to hot glue just between 3rd and 4th wire but I find it makes different vibration which I prefer the sound without)
Ryan Choi SO GOOD TO HEAR FROM YOU! I was hoping you would comment so I would have an excuse to message you. Best Publicity Manager EVER! Seriously- big thanks! I have some questions for you- if you have a second. What type of wire do you use for the four wires? Did you already tell me this? I've been reviewing my work with Mark Eubanks- who also used four wires and they were different weights and he used silver, brass, etc. And do you let the reeds dry on the forming mandrel or on regular mandrel? And what are your tube and blade lengths? I hope this isn't too forward but I'm researching a lot of different reed styles in books, blogs, and comparing to what I do, used to do, etc. It's fascinating. It's helping me make a reed particular to Exactly What I Need for Specific Performances. Let me know how you like some of my reed making style ideas- if they work for you, if they don't work. Cheers!
Eryn Oft I'm glad that you liked NEW-Comers. I use same brass wire for all 4 wires. (I got many tips from Gustavo Nunez's reed video) I see some people use 3 wires without any turkish head but 3rd wire has another loop to make it stable.(I've seen quite many including Mor Biron) I dry blank at Rieger drying board(regular type) but quite deep. I sometimes let the side of the reed little open(because I'll eventually bevel to make it round) My blade length is 27mm and the tube is 25-6mm. (We use 442hz here) My cut is quite thinner and shorter than most commercial reeds (My teacher's reed is even shorter) I have a the reed scoring tools from Bonazza but I don't use it most of time but sometimes I cut only 5mm at the end to make it easy to make the tube depends on the cane condition. I'm also very interested about what people use!!!
Ryan Choi How FANTASTIC! We play on the same length reed (for My Heckel) but with my Bocal I come in at 440. I hadn't thought of those playing at 442. I should include my shorter reed results for those at 442. Brilliant! You always give me so many good ideas. Last question- Wire placement? Where do you put them?
Eryn Oft Same length huh? WOW I only use Heckel CC1 bocal. ( I have 2 : nickel and gold plated) I have Fox 2 which I started with but it's with a my last resort Fox IV bassoon. (Yeah I have 3 bassoons because I didn't sell them but I'm about to let my puchner go) I don't have exact wire placement but my rule is that 1st and 2nd wire should less than 7mm and 3rd and 4th should less than 9mm. ( my teacher put 1st and 2nd with 8-9mm gap but I put 1st quite close to the blade side) Because I tend to move 1st wire placement at Tip cutting stage and I correct other wires correspond to.
Ryan Choi Okay- I have to admit I am a little fuzzy about your wire placements. But I think I have got it. So good to hear from you and catch up! Really appreciate all of your support- it makes filming so much easier when you have a connection to people. It's not just a camera. ;)
Im still new to this, but I found it was MUCH easier to sand and score the reed once I cut the wine cork in half down its axis. It made a much more stable platform. Overall, great videos! Thank you so much!
Instead of the waxing, my teacher told me to heat up or steam a mandrel (or mandrel pin in pin vise). Then, I put that in the tube, and let that sit for at least two weeks. I put on the wires before wrapping, I bevel the inner tube with sandpaper, I soak the cane for 4 hours before, I don't cross hatch, I score five marks on the bark(ish?) not all the way through ("roughening up"), I wrap the blank from the base to halfway up the blade,and I don't do hand gouging in the tube. I'm going to try out your method and see how it works out! I just ordered 10 pieces of gsp Vandoren cane (expensive, but I saw great reviews about its consistency). So great to learn more tips about reed making!
Wow! I've never scored completely through the cane...deeply into, but not through. Gonna try that on a batch once I get back "in the saddle". Thanks for the volume of time and information you're sharing, Eryn. I'm really enjoying the material. Super motivated.
Hi from Spain.
Two interesting videos ... and now expect the third.
Thank you for all.
I love your videos and they are very helpful! I do need help though. I have been having trouble with splitting when forming my reeds. what can I do to prevent this?
+Sarah Haines HELLO! The day you left this comment I just started an outline on this. Look for an upcoming video full of suggestions. Until then, you might try looking at changing the way you score a reed. This can also help darken the tone colors of a reed. Here's a link to a blog post erynoft.com/2015/06/21/darken-a-bassoon-reed-forming/. Subscribe so you don't miss my video dedicated to your question! :) And Happy Reed Making!
Thanks for making these videos. It's nice to see what other people are doing. I am going to try some of these tips. I never knew it was possible to over-soak the cane, and that perhaps that is why my reeds keep cracking. This is SUCH an expensive hobby! It's also nice to see someone suggest to NOT score down the center of the bark. I was taught (20+ years ago) that the center score is to be the longest and deepest, and that is NOT working for me! So, I may try a short, not deep score, or none at all, like you suggest, down the center.
Please let me know how you get along with the new scoring options! I find Hard cane is more likely to split, too. Softer cane is more pliable. Have you tried working with different brands and styles to see if it alters the challenges of cracking the tube? Thanks for keeping up with my bassoon adventures!
Wait, if you aren't providing pressure with the wrapping, how is it stopping any cracking?
Wouldn't coconut oil work as a lubricant for the mandrel?
Don't know if you have ever tried it, but I bypass the one hour soaking by microwaving cane for 7 minutes. Essentially softening the cane faster through heated water from the microwave.
I can’t count how many times I’ve watched this video!
Can you link your video on wrapping the wires? I’m having major trouble.
Hi there! I'm glad you're finding it helpful. I added a card for the Reed Wires video at 4:29 in the video. Hope this helps. Happy Reed Making!
I have been having a problem with splitting when shaping my reed. what can I do? I've watched your video several times and I'm still having trouble. please help me!
+True7Love Hi there! Where is the cane Splitting? What type of shaper are you using? I'd love to help- just need a bit more info.
Another Great Video :)
Because I prefer more live or wild vibration from rather small and Thin reed, I only soak cane about 10-15 minutes.(I like hard cane because more I deep it in water, I think the finer loosens.)
I used to score entire area but I'm gonna try your method that side bevel.(Good point there)
I use two mandrel : Rieger Forming mandrel, Rieger regular mandrel
Forming mandrel has bigger diameter than regular mandrel which helps because I bevel the entire tube and aggressive short bevel which shrinks the tube size.
I never had triangular tube without cross hatch but I think I might have crushed more with rieger plier I guess.(or because I score whole tube which makes more control?!)
Because I'm kinda lazy or try to make efficient, I don't do twine but make 4wires on the drying rack until beveling and also finish as 4 wires.( I used to hot glue just between 3rd and 4th wire but I find it makes different vibration which I prefer the sound without)
Ryan Choi SO GOOD TO HEAR FROM YOU! I was hoping you would comment so I would have an excuse to message you. Best Publicity Manager EVER!
Seriously- big thanks!
I have some questions for you- if you have a second. What type of wire do you use for the four wires? Did you already tell me this? I've been reviewing my work with Mark Eubanks- who also used four wires and they were different weights and he used silver, brass, etc. And do you let the reeds dry on the forming mandrel or on regular mandrel? And what are your tube and blade lengths? I hope this isn't too forward but I'm researching a lot of different reed styles in books, blogs, and comparing to what I do, used to do, etc. It's fascinating. It's helping me make a reed particular to Exactly What I Need for Specific Performances.
Let me know how you like some of my reed making style ideas- if they work for you, if they don't work. Cheers!
Eryn Oft I'm glad that you liked NEW-Comers.
I use same brass wire for all 4 wires. (I got many tips from Gustavo Nunez's reed video)
I see some people use 3 wires without any turkish head but 3rd wire has another loop to make it stable.(I've seen quite many including Mor Biron)
I dry blank at Rieger drying board(regular type) but quite deep. I sometimes let the side of the reed little open(because I'll eventually bevel to make it round)
My blade length is 27mm and the tube is 25-6mm. (We use 442hz here)
My cut is quite thinner and shorter than most commercial reeds (My teacher's reed is even shorter)
I have a the reed scoring tools from Bonazza but I don't use it most of time but sometimes I cut only 5mm at the end to make it easy to make the tube depends on the cane condition.
I'm also very interested about what people use!!!
Ryan Choi How FANTASTIC!
We play on the same length reed (for My Heckel) but with my Bocal I come in at 440. I hadn't thought of those playing at 442. I should include my shorter reed results for those at 442. Brilliant! You always give me so many good ideas. Last question- Wire placement? Where do you put them?
Eryn Oft Same length huh? WOW
I only use Heckel CC1 bocal. ( I have 2 : nickel and gold plated)
I have Fox 2 which I started with but it's with a my last resort Fox IV bassoon.
(Yeah I have 3 bassoons because I didn't sell them but I'm about to let my puchner go)
I don't have exact wire placement but my rule is that 1st and 2nd wire should less than 7mm and 3rd and 4th should less than 9mm. ( my teacher put 1st and 2nd with 8-9mm gap but I put 1st quite close to the blade side)
Because I tend to move 1st wire placement at Tip cutting stage and I correct other wires correspond to.
Ryan Choi Okay- I have to admit I am a little fuzzy about your wire placements. But I think I have got it. So good to hear from you and catch up! Really appreciate all of your support- it makes filming so much easier when you have a connection to people. It's not just a camera. ;)
Im still new to this, but I found it was MUCH easier to sand and score the reed once I cut the wine cork in half down its axis. It made a much more stable platform.
Overall, great videos! Thank you so much!
That is a brilliant suggestion. I need to try this. Thank you so much for sharing.