Mine has arrived, no damage in transit ,little bit behind you in little shop of horrors been working on my compound slide same problems as you with gib strips luckily my drilled dimples were that far out i could re drill them but found when setting they cock over, don't remain parallel to dovetail i have no mill so used some brass 1.0mm thick to shim at grub screw side they need to be a good fit within 3-4 thou before you adjust them. the screws need chamfering at the ends almost to a point to remove the thread. i used 1/8 bras tube in the threaded hole to protect the 4mm thread and drill about 2.4 mm through the tube through the brass shim and about 1.5mm into the steel gib strip the point on the screw keeps the gib from sliding out. all drilling was done assembled with a hand drill. all worked will with no play also put some thin brass shim behind the dial as it was galling up, this area needs another fix but will do for now. The 1.0mm brass shim check yours with a feeler gauge and get the nearest you can to correct size I built a lathe once wasn't planning on doing it again ! my tailstock is a nightmare total scrap it's aluminum alloy on top half. bought my lathe off eBay just messaged seller tonight.
I am not sure if yours is the same as mine, but when I took my backing plate off the entire shaft came with it as it is all 1 piece. it doesn't unscrew like other models. So, I am planning on redesigning it with grease points and oil seals. I think that will help a ton on top of the better Japanese bearings I want to install.
Hi thanks for your comment & interesting & greatly needed adaptions! There is one guy who has set up a permanent lubrication system for those bearings. I am not sure what shaft system I have, I will have a look at the bearing replacement procedure at some stage though.
Hi..thanks upload.....what are the red stripes on the ways if you please?......(I have a MX-210V 24" Centre to Centre) inbound.......all I can afford....I also have a SB9 but it needs a few things.
You could dome the ends of the cross slide gib screws. If you reverse the gib so that the holes point the other way you can file a groove across the gib for the centre screw so that the gib will always move with the cross slide and just let the dome end screws connect with the gib without holes. The existing holes should not bother the gib sliding. The holes are generally drilled at the wrong angle since the drilling is done with the gib flat but when in place it is at an angle to the screws. Great video many thanks
Thanks for the suggestions :) I have been sent some new gib strips by the supplier, one blank & one pre-drilled. So I will try that with the pre-drilled one. I have managed to mill out the holes in the original smaller cross slide gib, so the holes are at least lined up now!!
best way to measure the spindle runout is to take the chuck off and measure the taper on the spindle nose. You can also see how much axial play there is to gauge preload on the bearings. They Ship them quite tight and mine had issues with how they seated the bearings. If you can imagine, the quality only gets worse when you pull the spindle and inspect inside the headstock where no one ever looks. Finally, you should run it for 5-10 minutes and check how hot the bearings are. They should not be cold or hot but should warm up.
Thanks for that detailed info & I will follow uour suggestions. I have tested at chuck jaw level with a calibrated piece & everything matches up, so I am happy....for now! I have established what the run out is at the start, so will keep an eye on that :)
@@campacolasworkshop6042 the problem with your testing method for the chuck is that you are assuming the scroll in the chuck is perfect. it likely is not, so the best way to test the chuck is with different diameters. now the difference may also be minor but I just wanted to point out that your runout likely changes as you change the jaw position (work diameter).
Quick question on the block at 11.11 what size hole does it pivot on and the cross slide boss what size pin is it ,on mine there is a 2mm difference thanks also is your tail stock extruded aluminum alloy hollow section, can't see any others on TH-cam that look like mine ,it does not have a boss sticking out around the locking lever for the moving barrel.
Hi, really sorry you are having similar issues!! T hanks very much for your feedback on the gib, I will do as you suggest :) The round pivot that goes into the hole from that block into lower part of the x slide mechanism is 31.25 mm in diameter the hole is 32.5 mm the pin is 6mm. So similar to yours? it seems to have a 1.25 mm gap. So I think I have already worked out that getting any work done requiring the cutting tool post to keep an accurate position will be difficult??? I tested my tailstock with a magnet, it is definitely a ferrous metal! Did you get nylon gear wheels as well ? My Amazon supplier has promised my parts replacements in 2 weeks. Let me know if you need any further info on my lathe. I hope you get it sorted to your satisfaction. I am guessing this Ebay seller sent the lower spec item sent out of the same factory, most likely :(
@@campacolasworkshop6042 messaged the eBay seller I kept it very business like as he does not know what they ship must have come from a warehouse in EU. he said is it ok if we ship you another tail stock no problem I okayed it, hope to get it in a couple of weeks. Think the lathes are put together as quick as possible from standard parts by different machine shops the alloy tailstock is really cheap bad design. Trying to get it up and running without doing to much work . the brass or steel shim has worked will and going to do same on cross slide you could try it on old gib strips with steel shim epoxied on you could avoid/cover over the old drill marks .
@@campacolasworkshop6042 gears are steel head stock all looks good, lathe bed looks good but bad burr on bottom edge near rack, saddle looks good but will need stripping cleaning deburring ,the half nuts need looking at not centralized bends the leadscrew down when engaged if I hold engagement lever up it just misses lead screw. I will make a bush to take clearance up in pivot point, , or make another boss with a bigger 8mm pin to match hole in tool post for strength less likely to spin round/move . My lathe is the Lathe 22x60cm 1100W got the moving and travelling steady's with it . I would have preferred the 4 independent jaw chuck instead of 3 Jaw as it grips round and square can set as accurate as you need and safer when gripping on short lengths or nylon/plastic.
@@campacolasworkshop6042 your pivot point is for the compound slide so it will be sloppy /fiddley to set a angle mine is the same could be corrected later by make a new boss 32.4mm dia with a bigger pin to fit the casting ,it won't affect the tool post/normal turning in normal use.
I got some replacements from my supplier, but the gibs still had the holes in the wrong place. But at least I have spares now if I make a mess of re-drilling & lining them up.
i just got a 7x12 and going through it .. you said the purpose of the vid is to give an idea what to expect and i think that is fairly accurate, however, the condition of the castings is better in mine .. but 'everything' needs attention, smoothing, adjusting, aligning, shimming etc, hence why we can get them for cheap ... one thing to say though, dealing with ebay sellers in particular, i can give you an educated guess on a common scenario - they get LOTS of returns, and the guy in charge of that isnt a machinist but knows basically how theyre put together .. he has his own bay in a warehouse and goes through all the shite returns and pieces 'new' kits together ..THATS what youre likely to get on ebay ...
Well thats a perfectly plausable theory :) In a later video, I show my replaced castings from the Amazon seller which were better, but they could not supply undrilled gib strips!! In the end they did supply undrilled versions of the shorter gib strips. So I can machine those properly.
@@campacolasworkshop6042 If you bought an antique second hand lathe you were responsible for checking the condition of it when you bought it, that scenario is not comparable to buying a brand new machine, which old lathe did you have trouble with?
@@heybabycometobutthead I cant remember, but I would never buy a secondhand lathe again. I was responsible for checking it & I did but it was still rubbish when I came to use it. So clearly I did not have the skills to check it thoroughly enough. The previous owner must have worked around its rubbish accuracy but I could not.
I know this is too late but if the seller is offering a replacement on something like this, ask for a part refund. Like you say you’ve already done work to it to make it acceptable and would have to do the same to another one, and from their end, it’ll cost a lot to send you another one out and possibly scrap the one you return, so they’d be open to refund some of the cost. I’ve seen one guy who asked to return one and they just left it with him and gave a full refund!
@@Yosser70 Hi, thanks for the advice. Well too late now the seller has long disappeared from Amazon, probably to start the next lathe selling company !!
Yes, now I have purchased a milling machine, I have been able to sort out the gib strips so at least they align as they are supposed to. Working on copying a scooter hub in steel at the moment & it's not looking too bad! I am not looking for micro tolerances, so it's good enough for that!!!
This video just convinces me more not to buy any of these ultra-cheap lathes, and go with a Precision Matthews one. Granted that the smallest PM is a 10" x 22", but it is over 3 times the cost of the cheap (8" x 16") Chinese lathes on Ebay (factoring in domestic shipping, including the lift gate charge). You would get a working lathe out of the box, despite also being manufactured in China. I suppose the PM people take the lathes and completely re-manufacture them, but I'm not sure; the opposite would be that they hold the Chinese manufacturers to very high standards (something that has been otherwise hard to do from my experience). Trying to import them from China directly is also very expensive, as I discovered, with freight + additional 25% (or higher?) to the US tariff to the purchase price, making the 8" x 16" lathe 2x the cost paid and will still have the same problems encountered here (and only a partially working compound rest). So, to get a reasonable deal, you'd have to put up with the crappy customer service/support from the importer (at least in the US from direct from Amazon or Ebay--I don't know about other resellers like Grizzly).
Indeed, that is all quite true. You pay your money & take your choice ! I feel I have got this lathe into a position where I can use it, not for ultra precision work mind you, but for doing spindles like the one I did in the video. Hopefully the videos informed people of what to expect & also informed decision making, which was my intention.
Mine has arrived, no damage in transit ,little bit behind you in little shop of horrors been working on my compound slide same problems as you with gib strips luckily my drilled dimples were that far out i could re drill them but found when setting they cock over, don't remain parallel to dovetail i have no mill so used some brass 1.0mm thick to shim at grub screw side they need to be a good fit within 3-4 thou before you adjust them. the screws need chamfering at the ends almost to a point to remove the thread. i used 1/8 bras tube in the threaded hole to protect the 4mm thread and drill about 2.4 mm through the tube through the brass shim and about 1.5mm into the steel gib strip the point on the screw keeps the gib from sliding out. all drilling was done assembled with a hand drill. all worked will with no play also put some thin brass shim behind the dial as it was galling up, this area needs another fix but will do for now.
The 1.0mm brass shim check yours with a feeler gauge and get the nearest you can to correct size
I built a lathe once wasn't planning on doing it again ! my tailstock is a nightmare total scrap it's aluminum alloy on top half. bought my lathe off eBay just messaged seller tonight.
Main carrage or apron requires shims to control excess movement which are missing
I am not sure if yours is the same as mine, but when I took my backing plate off the entire shaft came with it as it is all 1 piece. it doesn't unscrew like other models. So, I am planning on redesigning it with grease points and oil seals. I think that will help a ton on top of the better Japanese bearings I want to install.
Hi thanks for your comment & interesting & greatly needed adaptions! There is one guy who has set up a permanent lubrication system for those bearings. I am not sure what shaft system I have, I will have a look at the bearing replacement procedure at some stage though.
Hi..thanks upload.....what are the red stripes on the ways if you please?......(I have a MX-210V 24" Centre to Centre) inbound.......all I can afford....I also have a SB9 but it needs a few things.
It looks like a pre-machining protection paint to me, but those red gullies will drain liquids into your motor housing so block them up !!!
You could dome the ends of the cross slide gib screws. If you reverse the gib so that the holes point the other way you can file a groove across the gib for the centre screw so that the gib will always move with the cross slide and just let the dome end screws connect with the gib without holes. The existing holes should not bother the gib sliding. The holes are generally drilled at the wrong angle since the drilling is done with the gib flat but when in place it is at an angle to the screws. Great video many thanks
Thanks for the suggestions :) I have been sent some new gib strips by the supplier, one blank & one pre-drilled. So I will try that with the pre-drilled one. I have managed to mill out the holes in the original smaller cross slide gib, so the holes are at least lined up now!!
best way to measure the spindle runout is to take the chuck off and measure the taper on the spindle nose. You can also see how much axial play there is to gauge preload on the bearings. They Ship them quite tight and mine had issues with how they seated the bearings. If you can imagine, the quality only gets worse when you pull the spindle and inspect inside the headstock where no one ever looks. Finally, you should run it for 5-10 minutes and check how hot the bearings are. They should not be cold or hot but should warm up.
Thanks for that detailed info & I will follow uour suggestions. I have tested at chuck jaw level with a calibrated piece & everything matches up, so I am happy....for now! I have established what the run out is at the start, so will keep an eye on that :)
@@campacolasworkshop6042 the problem with your testing method for the chuck is that you are assuming the scroll in the chuck is perfect. it likely is not, so the best way to test the chuck is with different diameters. now the difference may also be minor but I just wanted to point out that your runout likely changes as you change the jaw position (work diameter).
@@JesseSchoch OK, I get that, I will take the chuck off & test it the way you suggested in that case, when I have time.
Quick question on the block at 11.11 what size hole does it pivot on and the cross slide boss what size pin is it ,on mine there is a 2mm difference thanks also is your tail stock extruded aluminum alloy hollow section, can't see any others on TH-cam that look like mine ,it does not have a boss sticking out around the locking lever for the moving barrel.
Hi, really sorry you are having similar issues!! T
hanks very much for your feedback on the gib, I will do as you suggest :)
The round pivot that goes into the hole from that block into lower part of the x slide mechanism is 31.25 mm in diameter the hole is 32.5 mm the pin is 6mm. So similar to yours? it seems to have a 1.25 mm gap. So I think I have already worked out that getting any work done requiring the cutting tool post to keep an accurate position will be difficult???
I tested my tailstock with a magnet, it is definitely a ferrous metal! Did you get nylon gear wheels as well ?
My Amazon supplier has promised my parts replacements in 2 weeks.
Let me know if you need any further info on my lathe. I hope you get it sorted to your satisfaction. I am guessing this Ebay seller sent the lower spec item sent out of the same factory, most likely :(
@@campacolasworkshop6042 messaged the eBay seller I kept it very business like as he does not know what they ship must have come from a warehouse in EU. he said is it ok if we ship you another tail stock no problem I okayed it, hope to get it in a couple of weeks.
Think the lathes are put together as quick as possible from standard parts by different machine shops the alloy tailstock is really cheap bad design.
Trying to get it up and running without doing to much work . the brass or steel shim has worked will and going to do same on cross slide you could try it on old gib strips with steel shim epoxied on you could avoid/cover over the old drill marks .
@@campacolasworkshop6042 gears are steel head stock all looks good, lathe bed looks good but bad burr on bottom edge near rack, saddle looks good but will need stripping cleaning deburring ,the half nuts need looking at not centralized bends the leadscrew down when engaged if I hold engagement lever up it just misses lead screw.
I will make a bush to take clearance up in pivot point, , or make another boss with a bigger 8mm pin to match hole in tool post for strength less likely to spin round/move .
My lathe is the Lathe 22x60cm 1100W got the moving and travelling steady's with it .
I would have preferred the 4 independent jaw chuck instead of 3 Jaw as it grips round and square can set as accurate as you need and safer when gripping on short lengths or nylon/plastic.
@@campacolasworkshop6042 your pivot point is for the compound slide so it will be sloppy /fiddley to set a angle mine is the same could be corrected later by make a new boss 32.4mm dia with a bigger pin to fit the casting ,it won't affect the tool post/normal turning in normal use.
@@reedy93 I will have look at that. Thanks. I asked for some plain replacement gib strips to be sent so I can alter them as you suggested.
My gibs are the same the holes don't line up.
I got some replacements from my supplier, but the gibs still had the holes in the wrong place. But at least I have spares now if I make a mess of re-drilling & lining them up.
i just got a 7x12 and going through it .. you said the purpose of the vid is to give an idea what to expect and i think that is fairly accurate, however, the condition of the castings is better in mine .. but 'everything' needs attention, smoothing, adjusting, aligning, shimming etc, hence why we can get them for cheap ... one thing to say though, dealing with ebay sellers in particular, i can give you an educated guess on a common scenario - they get LOTS of returns, and the guy in charge of that isnt a machinist but knows basically how theyre put together .. he has his own bay in a warehouse and goes through all the shite returns and pieces 'new' kits together ..THATS what youre likely to get on ebay ...
Well thats a perfectly plausable theory :)
In a later video, I show my replaced castings from the Amazon seller which were better, but they could not supply undrilled gib strips!! In the end they did supply undrilled versions of the shorter gib strips. So I can machine those properly.
I guess the old saying you only get what you pay for applies to lathes as well
You do, but my experience of an equivalent price second hand British lathe was dire! So never again, only Chinese new this time, with all its faults.
@@campacolasworkshop6042 If you bought an antique second hand lathe you were responsible for checking the condition of it when you bought it, that scenario is not comparable to buying a brand new machine, which old lathe did you have trouble with?
@@heybabycometobutthead I cant remember, but I would never buy a secondhand lathe again. I was responsible for checking it & I did but it was still rubbish when I came to use it. So clearly I did not have the skills to check it thoroughly enough. The previous owner must have worked around its rubbish accuracy but I could not.
I know this is too late but if the seller is offering a replacement on something like this, ask for a part refund. Like you say you’ve already done work to it to make it acceptable and would have to do the same to another one, and from their end, it’ll cost a lot to send you another one out and possibly scrap the one you return, so they’d be open to refund some of the cost. I’ve seen one guy who asked to return one and they just left it with him and gave a full refund!
@@Yosser70 Hi, thanks for the advice. Well too late now the seller has long disappeared from Amazon, probably to start the next lathe selling company !!
these Chinese lathe needs alot of work to get decent cut out of it ,
Yes, now I have purchased a milling machine, I have been able to sort out the gib strips so at least they align as they are supposed to. Working on copying a scooter hub in steel at the moment & it's not looking too bad! I am not looking for micro tolerances, so it's good enough for that!!!
Yes especially if it got a jib , he must be a sailor 😊
Gib - hard "g" like "garden". "To lathe" doesn't exist. It's "to turn".
Nope, I cant say Gib, like garden, I would be laughed into the garden!
This video just convinces me more not to buy any of these ultra-cheap lathes, and go with a Precision Matthews one. Granted that the smallest PM is a 10" x 22", but it is over 3 times the cost of the cheap (8" x 16") Chinese lathes on Ebay (factoring in domestic shipping, including the lift gate charge). You would get a working lathe out of the box, despite also being manufactured in China. I suppose the PM people take the lathes and completely re-manufacture them, but I'm not sure; the opposite would be that they hold the Chinese manufacturers to very high standards (something that has been otherwise hard to do from my experience).
Trying to import them from China directly is also very expensive, as I discovered, with freight + additional 25% (or higher?) to the US tariff to the purchase price, making the 8" x 16" lathe 2x the cost paid and will still have the same problems encountered here (and only a partially working compound rest). So, to get a reasonable deal, you'd have to put up with the crappy customer service/support from the importer (at least in the US from direct from Amazon or Ebay--I don't know about other resellers like Grizzly).
Indeed, that is all quite true. You pay your money & take your choice ! I feel I have got this lathe into a position where I can use it, not for ultra precision work mind you, but for doing spindles like the one I did in the video. Hopefully the videos informed people of what to expect & also informed decision making, which was my intention.
Перевод на русский где
Man, you just spent way too much time trying to explain the problem and didn't get enough going into the fix😮. Can we please just move on now😢.
Thanks for the feedback :0
Переходи на русский больше подписчиков будет!
mail it back, get all your money back. My harbor freight mini lathe is waaay better.
Too late now 🙃
This is not a good look for Chinese engineering.
No its not, a few people have asked why keep it, but its the only show in town at this price point!