Thanks glad you found it useful. Yes, you're defintitley right about removing the spark plug, that's very important safety tip, we'll make sure we include it in any further tutorial videos.
Well done guys! Straight to the subjects no wasting time with useless talking Is coming next to replace the bearings on my 48 Pro possibly also the gear box Thank you very much
Thank you for this - Came to the vid as thought was doing something wrong yesterday when had to grind off roller sprocket - I appear to be in good company 🙂
Cheers Mick, we tried heating it as well but couldn't get it to move. The gearbox was £110, but it ended up costing just over £200 in parts in the end. It's a good mower when the drives working.
@@anthonygreen9157 Well second-hand machines seem to be £300-400, but you don't know how much life is left in the drive on those. But yes, it's probably not economical to repair, which is why many people just get new ones. But we do it as a hobby and it keeps another mower out of landfill.
Thanks for that I have five hayter harrier56 always changing belts and clutch cables I pull the mower backwards and it doesn't lock up is this a good sign of gear box gone have done a gear box before but always wondered whether it was the box. Its hard to tell when looking in side it without comparing to a new one inside thanks for the info great video
I need to replace the roller bearing on my hayter 48pro. It’s the opposite side to the sprocket and drive chain. Is there a way of doing this without removing roller? It seems the mower shell prevents me from unscrewing one of the bolts holding the bearing in.
I recently had a rear roller stripped and rebuilt replacing differentials and bearings plus a new clutch cable replacement. I got the mower back and tried it on grass and it's hardly pulling were as on hard smooth surfaces it does. Could you help me to understand if this is to do with the clutch cable or the roller rebuild or both please? Should I not expect this from the professional I used or is it just one of those things were the calibration is not quite right for a strong enough propel on grass?
@@Dante-vf4sd The belt could be slipping, which could be fixed by adjusting the cable. But with the height adjuster not moving properly it makes me think the roller hasn't been assembled correctly. Good luck
My 3 year old Hayter Harrier 48 Autodrive Variable Speed has developed problems with the variable speed. When the mower is cold it works as new but after 30 mins or so the adjuster fails and it hardly runs in slow or medium positions but is fine in fast. Leave it an hour and it's fine again. What's happening?? Can you help?? The other interesting this with this mower is that the battery ran out of steam after 2.5 seasons and had to be replaced for a mere £70!
I have not worked on one of those exact mowers, however, most variable drive mowers work on some form of pulley and belt system, which either the pulley moves or has some internal gearing inside of it. It is possible the belts are worn, so they have more tension when in a fast setting, which could reduce the issue. Yet, when you put in the slower settings the belt could start to slip. The heat from the mower when it warms up could also increase the chance of slipping. Replacing the belts could be a good idea, failing that the pulley or another drive component could be on its way out.
Thanks for posting this video. I’m looking at buying a Hayter Harrier 41. Is there any version you think is more reliable? I see they do a 41 push option
@@oz969 The older harriers, with the side drive from the engine, as we have in a few other videos, are quite simple, so they tend to be more reliable on the drive side of things.
There are a few websites if you Google Hayter 48 pro spares. They have a parts diagram for each model of mower. This is the one we used: www.shouldersofshoreham.co.uk/hayter-diagrams/hayter-harrier-48
Yeah honestly that's a good price, the gearbox alone was £110 for us, with other parts I don't think it was far off £200 for parts alone, so £240 with labour I'd say is a good price
Very useful thanks. Just one omission. Very important to remove spark plug cap before working underneath.
Thanks glad you found it useful. Yes, you're defintitley right about removing the spark plug, that's very important safety tip, we'll make sure we include it in any further tutorial videos.
Well done guys! Straight to the subjects no wasting time with useless talking
Is coming next to replace the bearings on my 48 Pro possibly also the gear box
Thank you very much
Thanks for watching glad you found the video helpful
Thank you for this - Came to the vid as thought was doing something wrong yesterday when had to grind off roller sprocket - I appear to be in good company 🙂
Yes- you're definitely not alone - they're difficult to get off.
Good video.. did you try putting some heat on the roller sprocket.. sometimes it helps to get it off.. how much was the gearbox
Cheers Mick, we tried heating it as well but couldn't get it to move. The gearbox was £110, but it ended up costing just over £200 in parts in the end. It's a good mower when the drives working.
@@snazzymowers1409 yeah cool mate
@@snazzymowers1409 Hi, so the parts cost over £200 with skilled labour (5 hours?)
How much does a working second hand machine cost...
@@anthonygreen9157 Well second-hand machines seem to be £300-400, but you don't know how much life is left in the drive on those. But yes, it's probably not economical to repair, which is why many people just get new ones. But we do it as a hobby and it keeps another mower out of landfill.
Thanks for that I have five hayter harrier56 always changing belts and clutch cables I pull the mower backwards and it doesn't lock up is this a good sign of gear box gone have done a gear box before but always wondered whether it was the box. Its hard to tell when looking in side it without comparing to a new one inside thanks for the info great video
Yeah if the cables and belts are gone it's most likely the gearbox, especially if it doesn't lock up
Thanks
What's the going rate on a fix like this if I was to get my mower done
I'd say a professional repair shop would likely charge £300-400, it was about £150 in parts
I need to replace the roller bearing on my hayter 48pro. It’s the opposite side to the sprocket and drive chain. Is there a way of doing this without removing roller? It seems the mower shell prevents me from unscrewing one of the bolts holding the bearing in.
Hi, sorry I can't remember too well, you may be able to get a spanner in, but I think you might have to remove the roller unfortunately.
@@snazzymowers1409 yea I thought as much, oh well. Thanks for the reply 👍🏻
How did you tell that the gearbox had gone what was the symptoms
The drive was very weak/ not working
I recently had a rear roller stripped and rebuilt replacing differentials and bearings plus a new clutch cable replacement. I got the mower back and tried it on grass and it's hardly pulling were as on hard smooth surfaces it does. Could you help me to understand if this is to do with the clutch cable or the roller rebuild or both please? Should I not expect this from the professional I used or is it just one of those things were the calibration is not quite right for a strong enough propel on grass?
Just remembered, the cut level lever is now not going into the highest cut notch since the change, could this be related?
@@Dante-vf4sd The belt could be slipping, which could be fixed by adjusting the cable. But with the height adjuster not moving properly it makes me think the roller hasn't been assembled correctly. Good luck
@@snazzymowers1409 Ok thank you very much for your advice, very much appreciated.
My 3 year old Hayter Harrier 48 Autodrive Variable Speed has developed problems with the variable speed. When the mower is cold it works as new but after 30 mins or so the adjuster fails and it hardly runs in slow or medium positions but is fine in fast. Leave it an hour and it's fine again. What's happening?? Can you help??
The other interesting this with this mower is that the battery ran out of steam after 2.5 seasons and had to be replaced for a mere £70!
I have not worked on one of those exact mowers, however, most variable drive mowers work on some form of pulley and belt system, which either the pulley moves or has some internal gearing inside of it. It is possible the belts are worn, so they have more tension when in a fast setting, which could reduce the issue. Yet, when you put in the slower settings the belt could start to slip. The heat from the mower when it warms up could also increase the chance of slipping. Replacing the belts could be a good idea, failing that the pulley or another drive component could be on its way out.
@@snazzymowers1409 Thnaks very much for those helpful suggestions.
Thanks for posting this video. I’m looking at buying a Hayter Harrier 41. Is there any version you think is more reliable? I see they do a 41 push option
If you don't need a self-propelled mower, the push one will always be more reliable simply as there is less to break
@@snazzymowers1409 thanks for your reply. As for the self propelled options are any of the versions more reliable than the other?
@@oz969 The older harriers, with the side drive from the engine, as we have in a few other videos, are quite simple, so they tend to be more reliable on the drive side of things.
Cheers 👍
Very useful video.. where do you get your parts from?
There are loads of shops online that sell the parts
Can I ask were did you get the parts?
Please I started looking around but they not looking to show up on eBay
Thank you!
Much appreciate it!
There are a few websites if you Google Hayter 48 pro spares. They have a parts diagram for each model of mower.
This is the one we used: www.shouldersofshoreham.co.uk/hayter-diagrams/hayter-harrier-48
@@snazzymowers1409 Thank you very much!
Could I ask what was wrong with the drive to begin with? Did it stop working completely or was it just weak?
We had two of these, on one the drive was just weak and quite slow to pick up. On the other the drive wasn't working at all.
I had a quote to replace mine for £240 that includes materials and labour, Is that a good price?
Yeah honestly that's a good price, the gearbox alone was £110 for us, with other parts I don't think it was far off £200 for parts alone, so £240 with labour I'd say is a good price
@@snazzymowers1409 thank you
This is a video to show how much a job this is above my pay grade and that I would always need a professional to get it done
This is why I have a Hayter Harrier 48 es made in 1999 which has no gearbox.
Yes, they're a better design
Great work can you do video on full service on hayter lawn mower
Thanks, next time we get a Hayter in we'll be sure to do a video.
Pig off a job god to see you do uit well ❤
Thanks, it can be a bit of pain
Ive got the newer 56 pro . Mines been a peace of crap . Problem after Problem