I heated up that small tube that is on the exhaust.First I cut that pos small clamp off.Then heated it up red hot at tapped on the exhaust pipe or the bracket that holds it.Worked good.
It might be a small thing to some but I honestly really appreciate the fact you do not start your video extremely zoomed-in at some random part and location underneath your vehicle that you would not know unless you work on vehicles often unlike myself thank you for that it makes it a lot easier for your videos to follow
Day1 Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed it! I feel ya. Sometimes engines and undercarriages look so confusing if you are zoomed in. I’m glad my video style works for ya!👍
Thank you for this video. I like how you outlined the steps at the beginning of the video. This makes it easier to decide what kind of time and effort I will have to put into the repair for planning. Your teaching style is really good. I am the original owner of a 1995 5.0 xlt extended cab 2wd 4R70W. I subscribed and always check to see if you have a relevant video before I do a repair. I am using this video to help me replace the leaking o-ring on the trans dipstick tube. The exhaust is in the way and I needed to see how to lower the exhaust to get to the dipstick. I also am replacing the tailpiece rear seal at the same time. Thanks again.
You’re welcome man!🤙 Thanks! I try to make the steps easy to follow. It’s funny, I think I have that same leak from the dipstick O ring. You’ll need to remove the two bell housing bolts that hold the dip stick tube bracket. Then you can simple pull the tube up and out.
Just wandering you went thru doing all . Question is why did you not change out front and rear seal, expectedly front seal does not cost that much we're you are at in the process doesn't make that much sense to me a does mean a lot if or does leak ..just a question what is of ??? Please answer.
Excellent questions. When I set out to rebuild this transmission, it wasn’t because the entire thing needed to be rebuilt. I had it rebuilt less than a year prior and the only part not working was the overdrive. So maybe not the best practice but I only focused on replacing that part.
Hey I am learning how to become a mechanic and I'm helping my dad fix his truck so thank you very much also when my brother was trying to fix his truck he couldn't get the bolts out neither could my dad I managed to do it so I am the muscle guy in my family and he'll I'm 15 and my brother is 18
Nice! I’m glad I can help ya out man…and your dad and brother. 🤙 Hey, my older brothers were wrenching on cars before I ever did and now I’m the guy they ask questions. Lol It’s not about the age but what you know and what you can do.😎
Steve! I’m buying my first f150 soon the owner said the cat got stolen and the asshole cut a line for the trans. Too. I’m assuming it’s before that Ruben part. And with my luck it’s going to be a pain. Thank you for your videos. I’m going to be bothering you with questions soon 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽 great channel
Thank you for the video my front seal on my truck just went now I got to pull the transmission out and replace it you made the job same like not such a big job
Did you support the engine while pulling tranny? People talk about putting a block under the oil pan to make sure engine doesn't move. I went to mount my rebuilt engine today....after installing the rebuilt tranny loosely a few weeks ago...and I think the converter moved and wasn't seated properly. The bell housing bolts aren't tight yet....so I need to pull engine apart from tranny again tomorrow, just to make sure torque converter is properly seated. When I was doing up bell housing bolts, I noticed torque converter was tight against the flex plate and that didn't look good. I hadn't put any of the nuts on yet that connected flex plate to torque converter and yet the two units were tight together. Rather than keep going forward, I'd rather be safe and separate them again, pull back the tranny just a bit, make sure the torque converter is seated well...and then push them back together again. I think I'll loosen the crossmember so I can push tranny back an inch or two. A pain in the ass....but that's part of the job, eh? lol
Actually, I didn’t. I’ve had good luck leaving the engine alone while I pulling the transmission. Although, if I do this again, I think I will support the engine. Yup, that’s the kind of stuff you have to do to make sure everything works!🤙
I have a 94 f150 5.0 and the transmisión looks Just like this one. The oil level is fine and some times when im driving 60 -80 kilómeters it kicks, what could be the problem ? Thanks from México.
Nice year man! Driving 60-80 kilometer distance or 60-80 kilometers per hour kph? If it shutters/kicks while driving between 60-80 kph, then that could be the torque converter.
@@TheMinuteMastersOk, thanks I ment 60 to 80 kilometers per hour, also when going up hills it looses power but the engine is working fine. So im going to make the time to take it down, i was thinking on the overdrive servo because my overdrive it dosent work, the shifter that supost to light up or flash when there is someting wrong in the transmission, it dosent work aider. sorry for my english. thanks man.
@@alanvillanueva4541 Yeah it definitely sounds like you have a bad torque converter. If you remove the transmission, the torque converter is easy to replace. Does your overdrive work at all? No problem man! I can understand you perfectly!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters I think that the overdrive dosent work because when I push the button I dont feel any diference and the light indicator on the gear shifter is not working I gess is burn. And how do you check the torque convertir since it is all sealed ?
@@alanvillanueva4541 If the RPMs are high while driving 90 kph then your overdrive isn’t working. The button should work and light up. I would check all your fuses. Unfortunately, the torque converter is sealed and can’t be tested. You can only replace them.
Been there done that. 4r70w transmission. Mine went out 20 years ago so it was alot more expensive than now. Got a brand new transmission straight through Ford and paid 1800 dollars for it.
@@LittleSoup56 Ok, I’m going to assuming all the internals are good, for now. How’s the fluid level? Fluid is the life blood if an automatic trans. Run your truck through all the gears (even if it doesn’t shift) to get the fluid to all area. Check the fluid level. Did you fill up the TC before installing it? It should take 2 quarts. Crawl under your truck and make sure all electrical connections are complete and secure. A good transmission installed properly should function properly. I think it’s a fluid issue or a connection issue. The link below is to a website about a book on how to work on AODE\4r70w Ford transmissions. If you scroll all the way to the bottom it has a little bit of a troubleshooting guide. www.diyford.com/ford-aode4r70w-guide-calibration-building-troubleshooting/
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you and we did check the fluids and the connections but everything looked fine. The truck would go through all the gears just fine
@@LittleSoup56 I would do a transmission fluid pressure test. You can buy or rent a gauge that screws into the test port on the driver’s side of the transmission. You run there all the gears and check pressure. Unfortunately, I don’t have a “how-to” video on how to do that but there are plenty of write-ups. Do you have a check engine light at all?
The Minute Masters cool, thanks. I think you said you accessed the upper bolts with long extensions from the rear. I would guess this applies to the 2001 F150 with the 4.2 v6 motor as well? Great video, thank you.
rockiemosley Yes, I used three long extensions. So the v6 is slightly different from my v8 but the transmission to engine set up is probably very similar. Honestly, my forward facing engines with the transmission attached to the rear, are all similar in design. If you need more specific details, I would buy a Haynes manual for your year of f150. However, I’d bet the transmission removal is almost identical to my truck.
Shane Subashe So I’ve done both methods. Pulling each separately is the easiest method, especially if you only have to remove the transmission. If you are planning on pulling both, then I’d still pull them separately unless you remove the entire front end of the truck. It’s a very tense process pulling both at the same time and I had my dad and brother with me.
Shane Subashe I would pull the transmission first. It’s easier and faster than pulling the engine. Plus, it gives you more room to maneuver the engine out later.
The Minute Masters hey I wanted to ask you. Do you know if all aode transmission will work in other vehicles that call for the same trans? Like for example getting an aode out of a mustang and putting it in the f-150? swap the tail shaft and housing from my old to new it should work?
Nick Cruz I don’t know for sure but I don’t see why not. The 5.0 engine in the f-150 is almost identical to the mustang 5.0, except for the plenum and a few internals. I think that could work once you have a custom length driveshaft made. I would poke around one a forum and see if anyone has done this swap. The AODE/4R70W was carried over to the next generation of f150 (97-forward a few years). So there should be resources on swaps.
Thanks for your help man. Turns out the output shaft and extension housing are an inch longer on mine VS the trans I was looking at. No way of getting around this rebuild now 😩
The Y piping bolts together at the flanges with through bolts. Normally, two studs come off the manifold where they collect into a single tube. Mine were rusted. So I cut them off and drilled them out. Then I put a long bolt through the drilled out hole. The flanges are like a ball and socket. The socket end (exhaust piping end) is flared outward around the edges (female fitting of you will). The ball end (exhaust manifold end) is flared inward around the edges (make fitting). So one just plugs into the other and you bolt them together.
have you replaced the transmission modulator valve on the tranny yet? if so, what stripe did you replace it with? if green/black...did you notice it shifting harder?
Prior to this video I had my transmission professionally rebuilt. If any sensors were replaced then it was done then. I haven’t touched any of the wiring. I only made upgrades to the valve body, mostly to the overdrive.
@@TheMinuteMasters What kind of issues were you having with it prior to the rebuild - if you don't mind me asking? what kind of coin to do it...rough figure is fine. My C6 is shifting kind of rough from 1st to 2nd...not always. like clunking into gear.
@@mackendw My overdrive band burnt out. I’d say, all in, it cost me $900. That’s parts, tools, jack, and fluid. Prior to that, it cost me $2,900 to have it professionally rebuilt. A C6 is very simple because it doesn’t have overdrive or electronics. Before you rebuild anything, I’d replace your fluid and filter. If you still have an issue, then you will need a rebuild.
@@TheMinuteMasters when I got the truck I did all fluids end to end. new transmission filter and fluid. gonna try the modulator and hose first and see how that goes.
@@mackendw Gotcha. Good job. Most people forget the transmission. Definitely start with that hose first. I’m a big believer in starting with the cheaper fixes first.
Last time I left it in my ole lady got pregnant 🤰🏽 I’m taking the transmission out tmrw will be coming back to the video lol my torque converter is bad and I can hear the flex plate is cracked
I had to get a used e40d and replaced it a year ago and now punching myself because I gotta replace the oil pan gasket, would have been MUCH easier to pull it back while I had ghat trans out but I’ll get it done, got the fel-pro one piece with the studs that hold everything in place , also a new oil pump just because I don’t want to do it again ... ever
DEATHMETALDUDE 666 Damn! That suck! My truck is leaking quite a bit around the oil pan. I’m secretly dreading doing it because you have to lift the engine up a few inches. So probably not to far on the future, you see a video about that. Lol
Chris Cardinale So i used I think 3-4 ratchet extensions with an impact gun. Once the drive shaft is out, you can almost sit upright behind the tail of the transmission. Then I threaded the extensions all the way down to the bell housing bolts.
Linus James I have seen people do this without a transmission jack. So it’s definitely possible. You can rent transmission jacks from some tool rental companies. I rented one to pull the transmission out of a Chevy express van. I bought the jack in this video for around $100 from Amazon. Harbor Freight also sells transmission jacks too. You can always sell it once you are finished and recoup some of your money.
Tough job with just a regular jack, though. I modified my floor jack. Some floor jacks have a removeable round little platform. If you remove it, you will see it inserts in the jack with a cylinder that looks like a socket. I bought the right size socket and welded it to a flat 1/4" thickness piece of steel...probably 7" x 12". Was pretty amazing for raising and lowering a transmission from under the pan. Welding is so handy for modifying some tools....or repairing vehicles.
Nice! I think it took me 1-2 hours to pull the transmission. The longest part was disconnecting the exhaust. Otherwise, everything else is just an unbolting job. Install the transmission takes about the same time. If you set aside a full day, you should be fine.
I am not very good at finding the response from you. But.... I wanted to send you a photo of a wire that has no connector on it to see if you know where it goes. If that is possible.
All of my responses should be below your comments. Unfortunately I used to have a email for people to ask questions but someone abused the system. I have an Instagram account that people can direct message me through.
I got a question about f 150 transmission and i know if there is six bolts that was takin out and the transmission is on the jack and when we jack it up or try to move it back awards it moves the motor too?
Lois Mccammon Yes there are the bolts that hold the bell housing to the back of the engine block. You also need to remove the bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate. There should be 4.
Lois Mccammon Once the bell housing bolts and torque converter bolts are off, the transmission should wiggle out. The center of the torque converter plugs into the center of the flex plate. It can be a snug fit which is enough to hold the transmission in place even after all the bolts are removed.
Brandon Stewart I used an impact gun and several extensions. I believe I used two 12 inch extensions and two 6 inch extensions. I sat up under the truck behind the tailpiece of the transmission and fished the extensions forward to the bolts.
If you have all the bolts off the transmissions bell housing and the metal brace that holds up the transmission. Is there anything else you have to do or will the transmission slide out?
Anthony Mitros After you have those bolts off. You need to take the bolts off that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. It’s about 4 bolts. Once those are off you can just wiggle that sucker right off. I usually grab the tail housing and pull back on it. Wiggling it just slightly does the trick.
Anthony Mitros You sure can! Just remove the access plate from the front of the transmission. Then you can rotate the torque converter and cut each bolt off.
vegito blue No problem! 🤙 Yeah it’s definitely tricky getting to the bolts but the extensions make it possible. I recently did a video on how to remove the engine from this truck and I had to go through the same process of unbolting the transmission again.
I have a 2001 Ford F -150 XLT Lariat. The transmission went out on it It would only go in reverse. Can you tell me what other years and transmissions are compatible?
Delores Molina I believe you have the 4R70W Transmission. If you have a 4R70W trans all you have to do is find another. Going by year, I believe 97-03 the f150 is the same. If that’s the case, any trans from 97-03 f150 is compatible. Don’t quote me on that. First check what trans you have and go from there.
I have a 2001 Ford F-150 with the 4r70w, I was driving home from work made a hard right turn. During the turn I noticed that the transmission was going into neutral now I won't go into third gear, I have noticed that in the morning it will shift into all gears, until it warms up. After that it feels like it is going into neutral any advice would be helpful. Thanks
Thomas Garcia Sorry to hear man! First check the level of your transmission fluid. Automatic transmission will show a ton of different bad symptoms of the fluid level is off. If the level is good, then check the color. Brand new transmission fluid is a translucent rosey pink color. It can be a bit dark red but should easily look red. If it looks brown or black you need to change it. Bad fluid can also cause many problems. Check those two things and then we can move forward. Otherwise, if I was to take a guess. It sounds like your overdrive band is toast. To check for that. Turn off the overdrive. It’s usually a button on the end of the shift lever.
I have checked the fluid it is good all around level and color, I have turned off the overdrive still will not shift into third. When the transmission is at normal temp. Only when cold it will shift into all forward gears for about up four miles. After that just into second
Thomas Garcia Gotcha. Unfortunately, if the fluid is good all around then your problem is internal...aka the transmission needs to be pull out and rebuild/examined. Now, there are two more tests you can do to rule everything out. You can get a transmission line pressure test gauge to see if the fluid pressure is correct in all gears. You screw it into the driver’s side of the transmission. You can find a list of steps for these steps online. The second test is reading the codes. There are a few sensors in the transmission. One of them is the shift sensor. You can buy an OBD 1 code reader on Amazon and at some auto parts stores. Like I said, if fluid isn’t the problem then the transmission usually needs internal repair. Now, one very last thing to check. If the trans filter pops out of its socket. Fluid can be pumped out of the pan properly. This can also result in losing the upper gears.
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you for the advice I will check those other things out, before I pull the transmission. Thank you for the helpful information.
I’m assuming this is a 2wd since no mention of transfer case? New to transmission work and planning to drop my E4OD to replace the torque converter. How would this job differ on a 4x4? I have a ‘94 F250.
Matt F You are correct! This is a 2wd. So for 4x4 you will need to remove both the rear and front drive shafts, remove the transfer case, and replacing the TQ is exactly like the video. I wish I could give you more information about how to pull the TQ. Your best bet is to pick up Haines Manual. I believe there is a section in pulling the transfer case.
Nate Simon This is an AODE. The differences between the AODE and 4r70w are so minor the rebuild steps are listed side by side in the rebuild book I used. From what I’ve seen, the wiring harness inside the 4r70w is a tad different from the AODE. Some of the valve body gaskets have minor differences too. I hope this helps!👍
Nate Simon Gotcha! Nice! Well if I was to take an educated guess. I would say it’s an AODE. Now if you really want to know. There is a steel tag attached to the passenger side of the transmission. Mine was dirty and hard to see. In the tag, should be stamped the type of transmission you have. Mine was stamped AODE/W. W is for 2wd.
I soaked mine last night in PB Blaster and they came right off today. They haven't been touched in 18 years and have been sitting in the salty swamps of Georgia.
Your videos seem incomplete.You skip around and leave the viewer's guessing at the step by step procedures.I'm not trying to be mean, I'm just saying that you need to go step by step and demonstrate how to remove a bolt , not all them but at least one.You seem to do a lot of talking about things that aren't necessarily needed.
Steve Cooper You are partially correct. It’s difficult filming and working at the same time. So I try to find a balance showing everything and showing only essentials. Sometimes I achieve that balance and sometimes I don’t. What parts of this video do you think I left out or I should have cut out?
I heated up that small tube that is on the exhaust.First I cut that pos small clamp off.Then heated it up red hot at tapped on the exhaust pipe or the bracket that holds it.Worked good.
Nice! Good tip!
It might be a small thing to some but I honestly really appreciate the fact you do not start your video extremely zoomed-in at some random part and location underneath your vehicle that you would not know unless you work on vehicles often unlike myself thank you for that it makes it a lot easier for your videos to follow
Day1 Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed it! I feel ya. Sometimes engines and undercarriages look so confusing if you are zoomed in. I’m glad my video style works for ya!👍
I 100% agree this guy has the video skills of chrisfix but he works on the same truck i have just a yeaf older.
That fact is not a small thing 😂 his videos r awesome
Thank you for this video. I like how you outlined the steps at the beginning of the video. This makes it easier to decide what kind of time and effort I will have to put into the repair for planning. Your teaching style is really good. I am the original owner of a 1995 5.0 xlt extended cab 2wd 4R70W. I subscribed and always check to see if you have a relevant video before I do a repair. I am using this video to help me replace the leaking o-ring on the trans dipstick tube. The exhaust is in the way and I needed to see how to lower the exhaust to get to the dipstick. I also am replacing the tailpiece rear seal at the same time. Thanks again.
You’re welcome man!🤙
Thanks! I try to make the steps easy to follow.
It’s funny, I think I have that same leak from the dipstick O ring. You’ll need to remove the two bell housing bolts that hold the dip stick tube bracket. Then you can simple pull the tube up and out.
This project is on my list, glad you've tackled it already.
Nice! It’s definitely not as hard as it looks. I consider pulling a transmission easier than pulling an engine.
Your videos are gonna be a life saver when I rebuild my engine and transmission this summer🙏🏻🤣
Thanks Jerimiah!🤙 I’m glad I can help you out!
Are you doing the rebuild by yourself?
Just wandering you went thru doing all . Question is why did you not change out front and rear seal, expectedly front seal does not cost that much we're you are at in the process doesn't make that much sense to me a does mean a lot if or does leak ..just a question what is of ??? Please answer.
Excellent questions. When I set out to rebuild this transmission, it wasn’t because the entire thing needed to be rebuilt. I had it rebuilt less than a year prior and the only part not working was the overdrive. So maybe not the best practice but I only focused on replacing that part.
Hey I am learning how to become a mechanic and I'm helping my dad fix his truck so thank you very much also when my brother was trying to fix his truck he couldn't get the bolts out neither could my dad I managed to do it so I am the muscle guy in my family and he'll I'm 15 and my brother is 18
Nice! I’m glad I can help ya out man…and your dad and brother. 🤙 Hey, my older brothers were wrenching on cars before I ever did and now I’m the guy they ask questions. Lol
It’s not about the age but what you know and what you can do.😎
Steve! I’m buying my first f150 soon the owner said the cat got stolen and the asshole cut a line for the trans. Too. I’m assuming it’s before that Ruben part. And with my luck it’s going to be a pain. Thank you for your videos. I’m going to be bothering you with questions soon 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽 great channel
Hi Juan! Nice!
That stinks. He probably cut the transmission fluid cooler lines.
Thank you for the video my front seal on my truck just went now I got to pull the transmission out and replace it you made the job same like not such a big job
No problem man!🤙 I’m glad I could help. Once you see the steps and break everything down, it definitely looks easier.
Pro tip: watch movies at flixzone. I've been using them for watching all kinds of movies lately.
@Dangelo Elliot yup, I've been using Flixzone for years myself =)
@Dangelo Elliot definitely, I have been using flixzone for years myself =)
"Do one thing every day that scares you." -- Elanor Roosevelt
chuck1prillaman You got it!🤙
Did you support the engine while pulling tranny? People talk about putting a block under the oil pan to make sure engine doesn't move. I went to mount my rebuilt engine today....after installing the rebuilt tranny loosely a few weeks ago...and I think the converter moved and wasn't seated properly. The bell housing bolts aren't tight yet....so I need to pull engine apart from tranny again tomorrow, just to make sure torque converter is properly seated. When I was doing up bell housing bolts, I noticed torque converter was tight against the flex plate and that didn't look good. I hadn't put any of the nuts on yet that connected flex plate to torque converter and yet the two units were tight together. Rather than keep going forward, I'd rather be safe and separate them again, pull back the tranny just a bit, make sure the torque converter is seated well...and then push them back together again. I think I'll loosen the crossmember so I can push tranny back an inch or two. A pain in the ass....but that's part of the job, eh? lol
Actually, I didn’t. I’ve had good luck leaving the engine alone while I pulling the transmission. Although, if I do this again, I think I will support the engine.
Yup, that’s the kind of stuff you have to do to make sure everything works!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks. I really appreciate it.
@@joeidaho5938 No problem man!🤙 Thanks for watching!
This showed me that I am way over my head. 🤠
What are you feeling over your head about?
I have a 94 f150 5.0 and the transmisión looks Just like this one. The oil level is fine and some times when im driving 60 -80 kilómeters it kicks, what could be the problem ? Thanks from México.
Nice year man! Driving 60-80 kilometer distance or 60-80 kilometers per hour kph?
If it shutters/kicks while driving between 60-80 kph, then that could be the torque converter.
@@TheMinuteMastersOk, thanks I ment 60 to 80 kilometers per hour, also when going up hills it looses power but the engine is working fine. So im going to make the time to take it down, i was thinking on the overdrive servo because my overdrive it dosent work, the shifter that supost to light up or flash when there is someting wrong in the transmission, it dosent work aider. sorry for my english. thanks man.
@@alanvillanueva4541 Yeah it definitely sounds like you have a bad torque converter. If you remove the transmission, the torque converter is easy to replace.
Does your overdrive work at all?
No problem man! I can understand you perfectly!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters I think that the overdrive dosent work because when I push the button I dont feel any diference and the light indicator on the gear shifter is not working I gess is burn. And how do you check the torque convertir since it is all sealed ?
@@alanvillanueva4541 If the RPMs are high while driving 90 kph then your overdrive isn’t working. The button should work and light up. I would check all your fuses.
Unfortunately, the torque converter is sealed and can’t be tested. You can only replace them.
Been there done that. 4r70w transmission. Mine went out 20 years ago so it was alot more expensive than now. Got a brand new transmission straight through Ford and paid 1800 dollars for it.
Damn! That’s a good price! I wonder if they still sell them and what they cost. They still use these transmissions for large fleet trucks.
@@TheMinuteMasters I was working at a Ford dealership at the time and I was able to get an employee discount on it. It would have been 2200 dollars.
@@kylestivers4606 Gotcha, that makes sense.
I have an 04 F150 heritage and when I replaced the transmission it wouldn’t go any faster than 5 MPH. Like it won’t shift. Any idea why?
Like your first test drive and it won’t shift through the gears? Did you rebuild the transmission or just replace it?
@@TheMinuteMasters I only replaced it and yea it was my first test drive
@@LittleSoup56 Ok, I’m going to assuming all the internals are good, for now.
How’s the fluid level? Fluid is the life blood if an automatic trans. Run your truck through all the gears (even if it doesn’t shift) to get the fluid to all area. Check the fluid level.
Did you fill up the TC before installing it? It should take 2 quarts.
Crawl under your truck and make sure all electrical connections are complete and secure.
A good transmission installed properly should function properly. I think it’s a fluid issue or a connection issue.
The link below is to a website about a book on how to work on AODE\4r70w Ford transmissions. If you scroll all the way to the bottom it has a little bit of a troubleshooting guide.
www.diyford.com/ford-aode4r70w-guide-calibration-building-troubleshooting/
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you and we did check the fluids and the connections but everything looked fine. The truck would go through all the gears just fine
@@LittleSoup56 I would do a transmission fluid pressure test. You can buy or rent a gauge that screws into the test port on the driver’s side of the transmission. You run there all the gears and check pressure. Unfortunately, I don’t have a “how-to” video on how to do that but there are plenty of write-ups.
Do you have a check engine light at all?
Are there any bellhousing bolts that aren’t accessible from below on the Ford F150?
rockiemosley The lowest bolts are on the sides. All the Others are around the top.
The Minute Masters cool, thanks. I think you said you accessed the upper bolts with long extensions from the rear. I would guess this applies to the 2001 F150 with the 4.2 v6 motor as well? Great video, thank you.
rockiemosley Yes, I used three long extensions. So the v6 is slightly different from my v8 but the transmission to engine set up is probably very similar. Honestly, my forward facing engines with the transmission attached to the rear, are all similar in design. If you need more specific details, I would buy a Haynes manual for your year of f150. However, I’d bet the transmission removal is almost identical to my truck.
rockiemosley Thanks man! I appreciate it!🤙
If you had to remove both the engine and transmission, is it easier to leave them attached and remove both at the same time or separately?
Shane Subashe So I’ve done both methods. Pulling each separately is the easiest method, especially if you only have to remove the transmission. If you are planning on pulling both, then I’d still pull them separately unless you remove the entire front end of the truck. It’s a very tense process pulling both at the same time and I had my dad and brother with me.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks. Which one would you pull first?
Shane Subashe I would pull the transmission first. It’s easier and faster than pulling the engine. Plus, it gives you more room to maneuver the engine out later.
Thanks man. Ill be yanking this SOB out tomorrow.
Nick Cruz No problem man! 🤙 Good luck!
The Minute Masters hey I wanted to ask you. Do you know if all aode transmission will work in other vehicles that call for the same trans? Like for example getting an aode out of a mustang and putting it in the f-150? swap the tail shaft and housing from my old to new it should work?
Nick Cruz I don’t know for sure but I don’t see why not. The 5.0 engine in the f-150 is almost identical to the mustang 5.0, except for the plenum and a few internals. I think that could work once you have a custom length driveshaft made. I would poke around one a forum and see if anyone has done this swap. The AODE/4R70W was carried over to the next generation of f150 (97-forward a few years). So there should be resources on swaps.
Thanks for your help man. Turns out the output shaft and extension housing are an inch longer on mine VS the trans I was looking at. No way of getting around this rebuild now 😩
Nick Cruz No problem man!🤙 That sucks. Hopefully you will find a good trans that works for ya.
Sharka from fayetteville.... thanks man.
No problem man!🤙
How do those little flanges on the Y pipe work exactly? I'm a bit confused how they're supposed to bolt up.
The Y piping bolts together at the flanges with through bolts. Normally, two studs come off the manifold where they collect into a single tube. Mine were rusted. So I cut them off and drilled them out. Then I put a long bolt through the drilled out hole. The flanges are like a ball and socket. The socket end (exhaust piping end) is flared outward around the edges (female fitting of you will). The ball end (exhaust manifold end) is flared inward around the edges (make fitting). So one just plugs into the other and you bolt them together.
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you so much that makes it so much easier.
Joe Briseño No problem man! 🤙 Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
have you replaced the transmission modulator valve on the tranny yet? if so, what stripe did you replace it with? if green/black...did you notice it shifting harder?
Prior to this video I had my transmission professionally rebuilt. If any sensors were replaced then it was done then. I haven’t touched any of the wiring. I only made upgrades to the valve body, mostly to the overdrive.
@@TheMinuteMasters What kind of issues were you having with it prior to the rebuild - if you don't mind me asking? what kind of coin to do it...rough figure is fine. My C6 is shifting kind of rough from 1st to 2nd...not always. like clunking into gear.
@@mackendw My overdrive band burnt out. I’d say, all in, it cost me $900. That’s parts, tools, jack, and fluid. Prior to that, it cost me $2,900 to have it professionally rebuilt.
A C6 is very simple because it doesn’t have overdrive or electronics.
Before you rebuild anything, I’d replace your fluid and filter. If you still have an issue, then you will need a rebuild.
@@TheMinuteMasters when I got the truck I did all fluids end to end. new transmission filter and fluid. gonna try the modulator and hose first and see how that goes.
@@mackendw Gotcha. Good job. Most people forget the transmission. Definitely start with that hose first. I’m a big believer in starting with the cheaper fixes first.
I left my exhaust connected and just removed the rubber hanger and got to everything just fine.
thomas grokenberger Nice! The hangers fit my exhaust has rusted off and was just handing there. Lol
Last time I left it in my ole lady got pregnant 🤰🏽 I’m taking the transmission out tmrw will be coming back to the video lol my torque converter is bad and I can hear the flex plate is cracked
Hahahaha!
Gotcha! Flex plate isn’t a straightforward fix once you have the transmission removed or pulled back.
Is the crossmember all bolts or are there rivets? I'm hoping its all bolts.
The transmission crossmember is all bolts. The engine crossmember it’s riveted and welded in place.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks!
YeastLord No problem man!🤙 Thanks for watching!
How did you remove the trans dipstick tube?
One of the transmission bell housing bolts holds it on. Once you remove that bolt, the tube pulls right out.
What's the numbers on the transmission
Like the ID tag?
I had to get a used e40d and replaced it a year ago and now punching myself because I gotta replace the oil pan gasket, would have been MUCH easier to pull it back while I had ghat trans out but I’ll get it done, got the fel-pro one piece with the studs that hold everything in place , also a new oil pump just because I don’t want to do it again ... ever
DEATHMETALDUDE 666 Damn! That suck! My truck is leaking quite a bit around the oil pan. I’m secretly dreading doing it because you have to lift the engine up a few inches. So probably not to far on the future, you see a video about that. Lol
How did you remove all the bell housing bolts?
Chris Cardinale So i used I think 3-4 ratchet extensions with an impact gun. Once the drive shaft is out, you can almost sit upright behind the tail of the transmission. Then I threaded the extensions all the way down to the bell housing bolts.
Pick a part has every bolt and nut you need dont be afraid to cut bolts
You are definitely right about that!🤙
How necessary is it to have the transmission jack? I am trying to save a little on my rebuild costs and this is truly a single-use tool.
Linus James I have seen people do this without a transmission jack. So it’s definitely possible.
You can rent transmission jacks from some tool rental companies. I rented one to pull the transmission out of a Chevy express van.
I bought the jack in this video for around $100 from Amazon. Harbor Freight also sells transmission jacks too. You can always sell it once you are finished and recoup some of your money.
Tough job with just a regular jack, though. I modified my floor jack. Some floor jacks have a removeable round little platform. If you remove it, you will see it inserts in the jack with a cylinder that looks like a socket. I bought the right size socket and welded it to a flat 1/4" thickness piece of steel...probably 7" x 12". Was pretty amazing for raising and lowering a transmission from under the pan. Welding is so handy for modifying some tools....or repairing vehicles.
I am fixing to do this job. How long did it take you to pull the transmission off and install it? (Not rebuild it)
Nice! I think it took me 1-2 hours to pull the transmission. The longest part was disconnecting the exhaust. Otherwise, everything else is just an unbolting job. Install the transmission takes about the same time. If you set aside a full day, you should be fine.
@@TheMinuteMasters Takes much longer for us amateurs...lol.
@@joeidaho5938 Good point! Lol Add two more hours then.😁
I am not very good at finding the response from you. But.... I wanted to send you a photo of a wire that has no connector on it to see if you know where it goes. If that is possible.
All of my responses should be below your comments.
Unfortunately I used to have a email for people to ask questions but someone abused the system.
I have an Instagram account that people can direct message me through.
I got a question about f 150 transmission and i know if there is six bolts that was takin out and the transmission is on the jack and when we jack it up or try to move it back awards it moves the motor too?
Lois Mccammon Yes there are the bolts that hold the bell housing to the back of the engine block. You also need to remove the bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate. There should be 4.
Lois Mccammon Once the bell housing bolts and torque converter bolts are off, the transmission should wiggle out. The center of the torque converter plugs into the center of the flex plate. It can be a snug fit which is enough to hold the transmission in place even after all the bolts are removed.
I came here to see the transmission be removed.....
You came to the right place! Unless you want watch the transmission physically descend from the underside of the truck.
How did you get to the top bolts on the bell housing or is it a few bolts there? And what tool did you use?
Brandon Stewart I used an impact gun and several extensions. I believe I used two 12 inch extensions and two 6 inch extensions. I sat up under the truck behind the tailpiece of the transmission and fished the extensions forward to the bolts.
@@TheMinuteMasters ok thank you
Brandon Stewart No problem! Good luck!👍
If you have all the bolts off the transmissions bell housing and the metal brace that holds up the transmission. Is there anything else you have to do or will the transmission slide out?
Anthony Mitros After you have those bolts off. You need to take the bolts off that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. It’s about 4 bolts. Once those are off you can just wiggle that sucker right off. I usually grab the tail housing and pull back on it. Wiggling it just slightly does the trick.
Is there away to cut them four bolts with a sawzall if you were planning on scrapping the truck and didn't care?
Anthony Mitros You sure can! Just remove the access plate from the front of the transmission. Then you can rotate the torque converter and cut each bolt off.
last question I have can you do it with the truck in park or does it have to be in neutral?
Anthony Mitros Park or neutral is fine. Mine was in park with blocks behind the back wheels.
How to I remove the top bolts that connect the engine?? No space to work
vegito blue I used four long extensions to reach it from the back tail end of the transmission. I also used an elbow near the socket.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks man. Thats what Im trying to do. There the fuel line and harness that makes it impossible
vegito blue No problem! 🤙 Yeah it’s definitely tricky getting to the bolts but the extensions make it possible. I recently did a video on how to remove the engine from this truck and I had to go through the same process of unbolting the transmission again.
@@TheMinuteMasters I be looking for the video. Thanks again
Great video
Thanks man!🤙 I’m glad you liked it!
Good video - helpful!
Thanks man!🤙
I have a 2001 Ford F -150 XLT Lariat. The transmission went out on it It would only go in reverse. Can you tell me what other years and transmissions are compatible?
Delores Molina I believe you have the 4R70W Transmission. If you have a 4R70W trans all you have to do is find another. Going by year, I believe 97-03 the f150 is the same. If that’s the case, any trans from 97-03 f150 is compatible. Don’t quote me on that. First check what trans you have and go from there.
I have a 2001 Ford F-150 with the 4r70w, I was driving home from work made a hard right turn. During the turn I noticed that the transmission was going into neutral now I won't go into third gear, I have noticed that in the morning it will shift into all gears, until it warms up. After that it feels like it is going into neutral any advice would be helpful. Thanks
Thomas Garcia Sorry to hear man! First check the level of your transmission fluid. Automatic transmission will show a ton of different bad symptoms of the fluid level is off. If the level is good, then check the color. Brand new transmission fluid is a translucent rosey pink color. It can be a bit dark red but should easily look red. If it looks brown or black you need to change it. Bad fluid can also cause many problems. Check those two things and then we can move forward.
Otherwise, if I was to take a guess. It sounds like your overdrive band is toast. To check for that. Turn off the overdrive. It’s usually a button on the end of the shift lever.
I have checked the fluid it is good all around level and color, I have turned off the overdrive still will not shift into third. When the transmission is at normal temp. Only when cold it will shift into all forward gears for about up four miles. After that just into second
Thomas Garcia Gotcha. Unfortunately, if the fluid is good all around then your problem is internal...aka the transmission needs to be pull out and rebuild/examined. Now, there are two more tests you can do to rule everything out. You can get a transmission line pressure test gauge to see if the fluid pressure is correct in all gears. You screw it into the driver’s side of the transmission. You can find a list of steps for these steps online. The second test is reading the codes. There are a few sensors in the transmission. One of them is the shift sensor. You can buy an OBD 1 code reader on Amazon and at some auto parts stores.
Like I said, if fluid isn’t the problem then the transmission usually needs internal repair.
Now, one very last thing to check. If the trans filter pops out of its socket. Fluid can be pumped out of the pan properly. This can also result in losing the upper gears.
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you for the advice I will check those other things out, before I pull the transmission. Thank you for the helpful information.
Thomas Garcia No problem! Good luck!👍
@The Minute masters do you have the 5.0 302 or the in-line 6?
Logan Grider I have the 5.0/302.
Looking forward to the rebuild video!
Peter Junco It’s not a step by step rebuild. Just a few highlights, upgrades, and handy tips you need to know. Still pretty good!
Good job dude
Keith R Thanks man!!
I’m assuming this is a 2wd since no mention of transfer case? New to transmission work and planning to drop my E4OD to replace the torque converter. How would this job differ on a 4x4? I have a ‘94 F250.
Matt F You are correct! This is a 2wd. So for 4x4 you will need to remove both the rear and front drive shafts, remove the transfer case, and replacing the TQ is exactly like the video. I wish I could give you more information about how to pull the TQ. Your best bet is to pick up Haines Manual. I believe there is a section in pulling the transfer case.
I thought you were using like a sonic straw as a pointer for the bolts lol
Cody Weeks Hahaha! It does look like one!
Was this a 4r70w?
Nate Simon This is an AODE. The differences between the AODE and 4r70w are so minor the rebuild steps are listed side by side in the rebuild book I used. From what I’ve seen, the wiring harness inside the 4r70w is a tad different from the AODE. Some of the valve body gaskets have minor differences too. I hope this helps!👍
@@TheMinuteMasters I was just wondering because I have a 94 f150 and I'm dropping the trans today.
Nate Simon Gotcha! Nice! Well if I was to take an educated guess. I would say it’s an AODE. Now if you really want to know. There is a steel tag attached to the passenger side of the transmission. Mine was dirty and hard to see. In the tag, should be stamped the type of transmission you have. Mine was stamped AODE/W. W is for 2wd.
@@TheMinuteMasters finally the answer I've been searching for! So I it's just a AODE-W. Damn Vin reader told me 4r70w thank you!!!
Nate Simon You’re welcome! Just try to locate that tag and check that. The vin readers are pretty good but not absolute.
would it be easier without bracelets
Ronn Sethman Yeah, I ended up taking them off. Lol Bad habit.
How to Remove a Transmission by Yourself F150
🔥🔥❤❤
Not balanced after u joint doesn't matter which way it mounts just to let peeps know
Jon A I figured that was the case. I put one in a 300zx with a reference. I guess I was being superstitious.
try just breaking the exhaust bolts, much easier-you'll have to replace anyway!
Yeah I ended up cutting them out and then drilling new holes. Couple through bolts and my exhaust it back in business.🤙
I'm a quick learner... saying what or how to do it is fine but why not do it step by step... that would be helpful
My videos are step by step but I don’t show me doing the actually work. However, my recent videos show me actually doing the work.
thank you.
Anthony Mitros No problem! Happy to help!👍
Como sacar transmisio manual estandar f 150 4×4 6 belocidades
Reynaldo Jaime Ford realizó una transmisión manual de 5 velocidades llamada zf5 para f250. No sé ninguna transmisión de 6 velocidades de Ford.
Where's the beer?
Bro, I need a beer during this for sure! Lol
Diy.. cardboard helps me .. never liked creepers.
lpz Cardboard is great too! I’m definitely not a creeper guy either.
spray the bolts with wd 40
or PB Blaster
I soaked mine last night in PB Blaster and they came right off today. They haven't been touched in 18 years and have been sitting in the salty swamps of Georgia.
Your videos seem incomplete.You skip around and leave the viewer's guessing at the step by step procedures.I'm not trying to be mean, I'm just saying that you need to go step by step and demonstrate how to remove a bolt , not all them but at least one.You seem to do a lot of talking about things that aren't necessarily needed.
Steve Cooper You are partially correct. It’s difficult filming and working at the same time. So I try to find a balance showing everything and showing only essentials. Sometimes I achieve that balance and sometimes I don’t. What parts of this video do you think I left out or I should have cut out?
SomethingExcellent Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it! You do live and learn working on these trucks. Lol
5
So boring.
Johnny Doggs Of course it’s boring. My videos are not in the entertainment category.
The Minute Masters yea i meant transmission work.
Johnny Doggs That’s true. I wish I was doing a lift of something cool.
Where can I get those lights?
The large soft box lights?