You’re Printing ABS Wrong! No Warping & Less Energy Consumption with This Trick!

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ย. 2024

ความคิดเห็น • 201

  • @JanTecEngineering
    @JanTecEngineering  หลายเดือนก่อน +65

    Subscribe or your nozzle will clog!

    • @VideoMazk
      @VideoMazk หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      lol

    • @KP-ty9yl
      @KP-ty9yl หลายเดือนก่อน +7

      jokes on you im using a .8

    • @olavodias
      @olavodias หลายเดือนก่อน +3

      Hahahaha loved it! Subscribed now just to prevent any nozzle clogs

    • @Gefionius
      @Gefionius หลายเดือนก่อน +2

      Ok you got me, I subscribed:)

    • @jk44593
      @jk44593 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Like this message and share or your nozzle will clog.

  • @AlejandroHernandez-qd5bj
    @AlejandroHernandez-qd5bj หลายเดือนก่อน +115

    As ASA seems to be replacing ABS in popularity, I'd be interested to see this test with PLA and ASA

    • @willofthemaker
      @willofthemaker หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Can't get ASA to stick to safe my life. ABS is relatively easy, even on an open bed slinger

    • @AlejandroHernandez-qd5bj
      @AlejandroHernandez-qd5bj หลายเดือนก่อน +6

      @@willofthemaker lol yeah, I recently used ASA to print my enclosure for the P1P and I had to fight the filament a bit. High high bed temps and just accepting a little warping was my solution. + A cardboard enclosure while I made my real one.

    • @winandd8649
      @winandd8649 หลายเดือนก่อน +5

      @@willofthemaker Might be the brand you're using? I experience no difference sticking ABS or ASA

    • @winandd8649
      @winandd8649 หลายเดือนก่อน

      I expect it to be exactly the same

    • @tinkerman-q
      @tinkerman-q หลายเดือนก่อน +5

      I have the exact same experience with ABS and ASA, down to the smell. Both are very easy to print if you do these 3 things:
      - Make sure it's dry
      - Use smooth PEI sheet. The smooth part of this statement is critically important.
      - Print it inside an enclosure.
      It is also a good idea to use some PVA glue on PEI sheet because if you don't remove it before it cools it may get stuck and damage the PEI sheet.
      PS: There are only 2 reasons to use ASA over ABS:
      1 - The price difference is very small
      2 - The printed part will be exposed to UV/weather
      Any other difference you may notice is more likely to come from brand / batch / storage conditions (like moist) OR color. Surprisingly it can make a lot of difference within the same manufacturer. For example: e-Sun red and green ABS print beautifully, with impeccable surface finish. Now, try your luck with e-Sun white ABS...

  • @JonS
    @JonS หลายเดือนก่อน +59

    I've used clear PETG as a first layer before printing ABS/ASA before. PETG has very strong adhesion to PEI beds (sometimes too strong, but I had no issues in this use case) and strong enough adhesion to ABS/ASA that I didn't get any warping in the moderate-size parts of I printing. Because clear PETG is so transparent, I don't have to worry about matching color with the rest of the print, or having to pick a color combination.

    • @enzoarathni7958
      @enzoarathni7958 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

      did you tried PLA/ASA ?

    • @JonS
      @JonS หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@enzoarathni7958 no. In part because I wanted the transparency of clear PETG so you couldn’t even see that I had changed material.

    • @LambdaDriven
      @LambdaDriven หลายเดือนก่อน +2

      Clever

  • @jajaum3d
    @jajaum3d หลายเดือนก่อน +3

    This is an incredible discovery! Even though I have a closed X1 Carbon, I’m definitely going to try this technique. Being able to keep the bed temperature at 60°C instead of 100°C or higher makes the process more economical and even safer. This opens up new possibilities for ABS printing, especially for those without beds that can’t reach higher temps. Great video! Thank you and congratulations on sharing this valuable insight! 👏

  • @pastagandalf
    @pastagandalf หลายเดือนก่อน +10

    I tried printing TPU on top of PETG to make a mudguard for a mountain bike (tough TPU to take impact from stones/..., PETG for stiffness). Worked really well, but especially with thin parts, going with PETG first (higher bed temps) was very beneficial for layer adhesion.

    • @Javii96
      @Javii96 7 วันที่ผ่านมา

      I've fused PLA and TPU with great results as well

  • @satoshitanaka1122
    @satoshitanaka1122 หลายเดือนก่อน +18

    It reminded that a Stratasys printer always prints ABS on thick raft of dedicated support material.
    This interesting technique might make engineering plastics such as Delrin more hobbyist-friendly.

    • @pastagandalf
      @pastagandalf หลายเดือนก่อน +3

      If I remember correctly, delrin (POM) has significant formaldehyde emissions when printed....I guess PA/ABS should be just as good for most applications and at least a little bit less extreme (although still kinda stinky or maybe even not too good for health). On the other hand, activated carbon filters are a standard in modern printers, so maybe that helps to just shrug that part off.

    • @aaronhambek6362
      @aaronhambek6362 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      The only stratasys printer I’ve ever used printed ABS on an ABS heated bed. The adhesion was so good it wasn’t uncommon to just snap the build surface removing a part

  • @migueldias1873
    @migueldias1873 หลายเดือนก่อน +11

    Yes man we want the test with special filament! Bring on Pp with PLA, Nylon, etc,

  • @DJProPlusMax
    @DJProPlusMax หลายเดือนก่อน +8

    That is really cool, and the good thing is that you don’t even need to use a multi head printer - since you (hopefully should) watch the first layer anyway, it is not much of a problem to change the filament after the first layer.

    • @JanTecEngineering
      @JanTecEngineering  หลายเดือนก่อน +6

      That's 100% correct. I will also do some tests on my (non multi head) MK4 with a manual layer change for the second video.

  • @mikenorfleet2235
    @mikenorfleet2235 หลายเดือนก่อน +5

    The thermal stresses that develop as it cools are hard to minimize without the use of a heated chamber for certain materials like abs. The goal for plastics is print them and keep the chamber hot, closer to their glass transition temps (i.e. when the plastic becomes solid again after melting) so that you don't have large thermal stresses develop as the geometry is changing during printing. Less thermal gradient means less warping. Then after printing is finished, cool the part slowly and the final geometry will be much more accurate, though you will still have some dimensional changes during this cooling period too (these are unavoidable but you can plan for them through careful engineering).

    • @JanTecEngineering
      @JanTecEngineering  หลายเดือนก่อน +2

      Thanks for your comment. You're definitely right.
      I know that this is not the best way to print ABS. The idea was rather to show a possibility if you don't have a heated bed or are really trying to drastically reduce your power consumption.
      Of course, the shrinkage of materials like ABS cannot be avoided.

  • @Willdmo
    @Willdmo หลายเดือนก่อน +7

    Nylon, pp, PC, ppa-cf is especially interesting for compability and as possibly use for support

  • @ukrytykrytyk8477
    @ukrytykrytyk8477 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Definitely a video of printing PETG on a layer of PLA is worth a separate video. Show us your techniques and ideas. Also for those who would be using filament change option on one extruder printers.

  • @greggrunschel9814
    @greggrunschel9814 หลายเดือนก่อน +21

    Question: Does PLA+ABS have the same layer adhesion whether you print PLA on ABS, or ABS on PLA? It might seem like a silly question at first, but since ABS prints significantly hotter than PLA, I'm curious if the amount of layer remelting is different enough to make a numerically noticeable difference. Admittedly, I can't think of a good reason to print PLA on top of ABS, but I'm still curious.

    • @Roobotics
      @Roobotics หลายเดือนก่อน +7

      Not a silly question at all, I was going to ask this same thing, I've even noticed the difference if I print Silk-PLA/PLA or PLA/Silk-PLA. The order for some might be very important but totally undocumented. Most don't realize that part of the bond is the lower material also remelting a bit, so trying to print PLA ontop of ABS, likely doesn't work unless the ABS is still quite hot.. Then we also get into another odd question because of that.. "How long does your machine take to change out filaments?" because that is a new variable that's even lesser tested for differential material bonding. Thermals defuse through the materials below, so if you take too long the bonds end up weakened.

    • @lacikeri3102
      @lacikeri3102 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      ABS doesn't stick to the glass at all for me. This is a good enough reason to use a PLA base layer. I think PEI sheet is too cumbersome and fragile and expensive. I have, but I don't like to use it.
      I heat the table to 55-60°C. In this case, the adhesion is strongest. ABS adheres perfectly to the PLA layer, because it is warm and melts together. Then, when it has cooled down, I simply peel off the PLA layer from the bottom because they no longer stick when cold.
      Another advantage of the PLA base layer is that not only ABS adheres well to it, but practically all materials tried so far.

    • @Roobotics
      @Roobotics หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@lacikeri3102 That's a very good point actually, I suppose I've been spoiled after moving to PEI sheets and never looking back. And ABS can certainly still be finicky at times on that. One thing I've found is whatever z-offset I print PLA with a reliable first layer and 0.2mm , I often need to go to about 0.15mm for ABS to have similar results, on PEI I know it helps squish it into the grooves, on glass that might help as well. That said if PLA can solve your issue anyways that's awesome, that one layer isn't really going to deform anything even if it hits glass transition temperature. Only thing to worry about is if the ABS distorts critical dimensions or not.
      Also oddly enough PLA and TPU don't make an amazing bond, but they do still bond better than PLA/PETG, which is okay I guess since TPU is already crazy-adhesive to the bed, the bond between TPU/PETG is ~2x stronger though, likely temp related at least a bit.

    • @lacikeri3102
      @lacikeri3102 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@Roobotics I have not tried PLA-TPU. Yes, the TPU stuck well on its own. I only use PLA base layer for ABS, PA materials. Sometimes to PETG if it would come up because of its shape. The truth is that I have a self-built printer. It does not have automatic table leveling. This is also the reason why I like the glass table. 😄
      I want to buy a Bambulab printer, I will definitely use it with a PEI table.

  • @Cyphco
    @Cyphco หลายเดือนก่อน +2

    An Idea i had would be to somehow print the infill of every x't layer using PLA to relief internal stress of the ABS while still having the Shell strength of ABS

  • @FrankyieFrank
    @FrankyieFrank หลายเดือนก่อน +3

    I have been using polystyreen as an interface layer for supports for some time. Works well enough on ASA and PETG. I deliberately mention interface layers. I do not print support material completely from polystyreen. This trick reduces the amount of toolchanges saves material, time and wear to your machine.

  • @sunriseshell
    @sunriseshell หลายเดือนก่อน +6

    Great video!
    I'd like to see the ABS warp test with PLA as a first layer, with varying bed temps from 60° up to 100°.

  • @Gitmo314
    @Gitmo314 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

    Really cool trick, gonna start printing all my ASA with PLA on the bottom. Thanks for the research.

    • @Gitmo314
      @Gitmo314 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Also was cool seeing you at the 3dprinttopia event today :D Didn't know you were gonna have a booth there.

  • @shababhsiddique
    @shababhsiddique หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    That's a neat find. Will try this, I don't have MMU so only way I can do this is with "pause at height' method. andincrease temp of nozzle at that height.

  • @hanswurstusbrachialus5213
    @hanswurstusbrachialus5213 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

    Warping is not a problem caused by bed adhesion only. You did it on a flat print. For taller or bigger parts conform heating is more important because you get layer seperation. Also its very impectful if you have a lot of long and straight lines/walls in the design which enforces warping significant. Guess what - the Stealthburner cover is exactly counter warping design.

  • @oljobo
    @oljobo หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    This video has good audio! Much better than the last I saw on your channel 👍☺️

    • @JanTecEngineering
      @JanTecEngineering  หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Thank you, very happy to hear that!

  • @marienspek812
    @marienspek812 หลายเดือนก่อน +4

    Real nice find printing ABS on PLA to reduce warping! I do wonder if that also works with ASA on PLA.
    Could be revolutionary for occasional ABS/ASA printing on open bed machines!

  • @ScottStoneUnforgivenII
    @ScottStoneUnforgivenII หลายเดือนก่อน +3

    Great information! Thank you for your hard work and sharing it with us! Please test specialty filaments! 👍

  • @Liberty4Ever
    @Liberty4Ever 14 วันที่ผ่านมา

    I don't print multi-color items. I print functional parts. This technique of printing PETG for the first layer or two and ABS or ASA for subsequent layers to improve bed adhesion and lower electrical usage by having a cooler heated bed is a good application for me to use a printer with a multi-color feeder, not for different colors but for different materials.
    Bambu Lab is releasing a TPU filament that works in their AMS multi reel feeder... presumably a higher durometer TPU. Hopefully other filament manufacturers will follow suit and we can print parts with TPU and ABS, maybe with a PETG first layer or two.

  • @ryanclingman9053
    @ryanclingman9053 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Definitely interested in seeing nylon added to the mix, I would love to see if there is another material that could be combined like that to reduce the warping/bed adhesion issue

  • @AEB1781
    @AEB1781 หลายเดือนก่อน +18

    Great Test and approach. About PLA as a first layer for ABS: ABS needs those temepratures. It‘s not only about the adhesion of the first layer. The elevated bed temperatures are important for the whole Part not cooling down.
    Warping comes from the upper segment of a part shrinking too much and therefore pulling the below layers up.
    Try thicker parts or 100 filled cubes 100x100x100 or even bigger.
    What you‘ve found is just an edge case and is not used for example in the professional 3DP industry.
    Keep your content up and stay curious!
    Sincerly
    Andreas

    • @Roobotics
      @Roobotics หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      One of the tests was literally a warp-test though and did "better" than the pure ABS, butttt I air-quote that part because the printer is also not enclosed and ABS does have a finickyness to getting it to stick, so I'm tempted to say those particular results can't be held as valid, you really never want to print ABS like that if it's anything precise, drafts rob the thermals and make everything shift. Oddly though, I wonder if 60c had less warp due to only adhesion, or because the updraft thermals the bed makes, would be less turbulent and draw in less cooling from the sides?

    • @OldSkullSoldier
      @OldSkullSoldier หลายเดือนก่อน +3

      I wonder how would it warp if someone combined 1-2 layers of PLA every 10-20 layers of ABS. PLA stiffnes should offer a lot of resistance against warping, creating some type of composite material, but I wonder if it would work well.
      For ABS you should generally always have enclsoed printer.

    • @MrVelociraptor75
      @MrVelociraptor75 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@OldSkullSoldier You could potentially do it as a [solid?] infill layer every so often (so it's not visible)?

  • @cowboy124aa3
    @cowboy124aa3 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Just Curious does the number of PLA Layers with the ABS make any difference Im sure after a number of PLA layers the warping of ABS would drop off a great deal and not make any difference. But if you print 3 or 4 layers of PLA and then ABS as opposed to 1 or 2 layers will the warping stop all together? I think a more detailed analsys of layers between PLA and ABS in an unheated and heated chamber would be prudent! Also I am intersted in what JonS has proposed!

  • @krollmond7544
    @krollmond7544 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Finally someone doing real multi material prints!

  • @ImaginationToForm
    @ImaginationToForm หลายเดือนก่อน

    I've seen that tire, that is pretty cool.

  • @darrenk1055
    @darrenk1055 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Awesome video! I’ve seen some videos about concerns with carbon fiber ‘dust’ and I’m wondering - if someone really needs a filament containing CF maybe you’re onto something here and the CF filament could be encased with PLA, ABS, or PETG to reduce the worry about CF fibers and health risks? Do you think CF printing is a health hazard?

  • @jedisct1
    @jedisct1 หลายเดือนก่อน +3

    I'd be interested in that experiment with PCTG and PC.

  • @3DEMS.
    @3DEMS. หลายเดือนก่อน

    pla for abs... never thought of that. Clever!

  • @LordNerfherder
    @LordNerfherder หลายเดือนก่อน

    As asa is so bad with warping on larger and thinner parts i would like to see a showcase of alternative supportmaterials to reduce fan requirements for overhangs and bridges.

  • @Neckoop
    @Neckoop หลายเดือนก่อน

    My general method to Print ABS is to do it as cold as possible to minimize warping. Even if i have to slow down the printer works fine on Voron 2.4 and X1C

  • @dave20874
    @dave20874 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I'm going to have to invest in a multi-tool conversion for my Voron because these techniques are too good to pass up.

  • @lacikeri3102
    @lacikeri3102 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I have been using this for a long time. I change the thread by hand after the first layer. I print on a glass sheet and the PLA adheres to it very strongly. On a PLA base layer, although I have already printed with PA-CF, ABS, PMMA, PETG. It never came up, but it happened that it broke the glass when printing POM material. Unfortunately, this cannot be printed thickly because it shrinks very strongly, even though it is very impact and abrasion resistant.

  • @jonathan3518
    @jonathan3518 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Do you think that the purge between material change might improve the tensile strength? In other words, don’t purge just print a transition layer.

  • @EatingCtrlV
    @EatingCtrlV หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    I would love to see ASA in these, I always use it over ABS.

  • @freedomofmotion
    @freedomofmotion หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Hi is there any material thatcould work as first layer for PP?

  • @trumpetsrlife9692
    @trumpetsrlife9692 27 วันที่ผ่านมา

    just found out that you can use petg as a bottom layer for PC to minimize warping. pretty neat

  • @AdventurePrinting
    @AdventurePrinting หลายเดือนก่อน +4

    Is not about warping.. is about layer adhesion and finished part.
    By controlling the chamber temp you can control the shrinkage (along with clever design and slicing), get the most from the amorphous material, avoid thermal shock, artifacts etc..
    ABS needs an enclosure, period, or you better use other materials.

    • @phreshxmetal
      @phreshxmetal หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Glad someone said this

    • @ilKamuTube
      @ilKamuTube หลายเดือนก่อน

      I would like to print on an open machine a material that has good resistance to high temperatures, what do you recommend?

    • @AdventurePrinting
      @AdventurePrinting หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@ilKamuTube PET without the G. Is the best you can get on an open printer reliably. Possibly a blend with FBPE.
      On a more specific term: what thermal resistance you need? How many MPa at what temperature?

    • @saintjohnny45
      @saintjohnny45 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

      Apart from the specialities that come with printing ABS, you really dont want to breath in the VOCs that are emitted when printing ABS. A chamber and GOOD ventilation are REQUIRED for ABS. I know, everyone knows this. But safety cannot be stated enough.

  • @migueldias1873
    @migueldias1873 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hey JanTec, I think it'd also be interesting to know how two different pla's, can even be of the same brand, bond. That way we'd know if when we're making multicolor prints, if we are sacrificing the strength of our part, we'd have a rough estimate by how much

  • @leogray1091
    @leogray1091 27 วันที่ผ่านมา

    The finding for using PLA to hold ABS is so cool! Here is another question, since PLA and ABS stick quite well, and PLA solvent is super toxic. Would it be possible to use ABS juice to glue PLA?

  • @Relatablename
    @Relatablename 23 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Print on PLA tree supports at a height of 5-13mm. No bed heating required, only painter's tape.

  • @miestermind
    @miestermind หลายเดือนก่อน +4

    So the nylons, the CF-PET, CF HTPA, THE NEW rav of the PPA-CF TOO basically how do these bond with asa, tpu, with these engineering materials.

  • @SebastienChedalBornu
    @SebastienChedalBornu หลายเดือนก่อน +2

    Very interesting to test the same with PC as it requires a hotter heated than abs

  • @Dustmuffins
    @Dustmuffins หลายเดือนก่อน

    I'd love to see this with fancier filaments. I love my PC-CF, but I'd like to spice it up with some color accents. Luckily I've found that ASA bonds decently well to it, but I'd like to see some more better data on it!

  • @klemenzupancic
    @klemenzupancic 28 วันที่ผ่านมา

    I would be interested also the combination of PC and other materials, particularly in the contex of warping reduction.

  • @booyackshaw
    @booyackshaw หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    For that print with the first layer PLA and the rest of the part in ABS, can you elaborate if you used the PLA bed temperature through the entire print? Or did it go up to abs temp after the first layer? Or somewhere in the middle? Definitely interested in trying that.

    • @JanTecEngineering
      @JanTecEngineering  หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      I used 65°C bed for the whole print. Consider using 2-3 layers of PLA.

    • @booyackshaw
      @booyackshaw หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@JanTecEngineering thank you very much for the quick reply and good info.

  • @BirnieMac1
    @BirnieMac1 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Definitely would love to know more about the speciality grade

  • @brendanvogele2531
    @brendanvogele2531 24 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Would love to see PET-PLA adhesion Specifically PET-CF and PLA+ :)

  • @kanav1998
    @kanav1998 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Would love to see the video with PP for my research work

  • @freedomofmotion
    @freedomofmotion หลายเดือนก่อน +3

    How thick does the layer need to be for the PLA base?
    I'm going to try with ASA and PLA

    • @JanTecEngineering
      @JanTecEngineering  หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      I did one (0.2 mm) layer. You could also try a couple more, maybe two or three. Feel free to let me know how it worked for you!

    • @freedomofmotion
      @freedomofmotion หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@JanTecEngineeringThat's Incredible that such a small layer can help so much! Thank you for finding such a " hack"
      I shall try tomorrow I have a bracket on my printer head that is currently PLA but it softens and doesn't grip well.
      I'm hoping I can print the part in ASA but I haven't done this as I have a Kobra 2 max and the bed doesn't get very hot and it is not enclosed.

  • @tazanteflight8670
    @tazanteflight8670 9 วันที่ผ่านมา

    The hot bed is what causes warping. When I print pacf my bed is set to 40c, and I get perfect prints. No lifting, no warping. I use gluestick on glass.

  • @TheLaXandro
    @TheLaXandro หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    I've heard that people print PP with a raft of PETG. Or was it PC? I keep forgetting. One of these, the one that doesn't stick to anything, but apparently sticks to PETG.

    • @saintjohnny45
      @saintjohnny45 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Polypropylene doesnt stick to anything(?) but itself. Apparently it sticks to PETG? People used polypropylene glue to make it stay on the fucking bed

  • @bluerider0988
    @bluerider0988 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    I'm interested in leasing more about PC.
    Very interested in your PLA/ABS combo. Can you try it with ASA as well?

  • @goosenp
    @goosenp หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Do you have a similar trick fo handle the warping of Polypropylene filament?

    • @soundspark
      @soundspark 14 วันที่ผ่านมา

      You could always experiment.

  • @thegribbs
    @thegribbs หลายเดือนก่อน

    Printing mostly nylon these days, I'd really appreciate some test with it.

  • @mahendradhungel8011
    @mahendradhungel8011 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Would like to know if pla abs would work open air or not. Even though denomination is reduced for cracking induced?

  • @fuzedfab
    @fuzedfab หลายเดือนก่อน

    Would love to see this on ASA

  • @MyLonewolf25
    @MyLonewolf25 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Please do this with more filaments like nylon

  • @Voyajer.
    @Voyajer. หลายเดือนก่อน

    I'd love to see what can be done with nylon! I find myself using nylon often now instead of petg.

  • @tombo7719
    @tombo7719 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I accidently mixed PETG w/ ABS. I don't see any issues once it was completed.

  • @rogerfroud300
    @rogerfroud300 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Maybe use a skirt with the thin PLA layer and ABS?

  • @lukasz_1131
    @lukasz_1131 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Sure, idea is good, make more tests, specially cf blends!

  • @AA-xm7rt
    @AA-xm7rt หลายเดือนก่อน

    I printed petg on 230° on exident few days ago. I didnt know petg would evem print that low temp.

  • @chris993361
    @chris993361 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I would love to see PC and nylon added to the list

  • @EliteMacFreak
    @EliteMacFreak 26 วันที่ผ่านมา

    I don't understand why printing with PLA makes warping on ABS less severe. Increased bed temperature should help prevent warping by minimizing the temperature difference between the lower and upper layers. I don't understand why lowering the bed temperature and printing a single layer of PLA before ABS would cause less warping--the PLA-ABS adhesion strength is worse than ABS-ABS, and I don't think that PLA-Bed adhesion is better than ABS-Bed adhesion, so what's going on here?

  • @aarrodri
    @aarrodri หลายเดือนก่อน

    Brilliant!

  • @giomjava
    @giomjava หลายเดือนก่อน

    Amazing!!

  • @johngray3449
    @johngray3449 หลายเดือนก่อน

    PLA for 2 layers and add a brim.

  • @gregoryhlavac4731
    @gregoryhlavac4731 หลายเดือนก่อน

    "Relatively strong warping"
    He said, printing ABS in open air on a printer and seeming surprised.

  • @hdragoon1710
    @hdragoon1710 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Try printing tall/big abs parts without enclosure and heat. Bed adhesion isn't a big problem.

  • @svenvanbeckum6397
    @svenvanbeckum6397 หลายเดือนก่อน

    interesannte idee, mal schauen was dabei rauskommt wenn man abs auf tpu druckt, dann könnte man bei 40c bett bleiben :D

  • @saintjohnny45
    @saintjohnny45 หลายเดือนก่อน

    your pronounciation of PETG (PEET-G) reminds me of Pingu

  • @ripmax333
    @ripmax333 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Let's say you want to print a Part in ABS but you want to use the method of using PLA for the first layer to prevent Warping but You also don't have an MMU. How can you accomplish That?

  • @valent_t
    @valent_t หลายเดือนก่อน

    60C seams too low bed temperature for ABS or ASA. How about using 80C? Too hot for pla layer?

    • @AdventurePrinting
      @AdventurePrinting หลายเดือนก่อน

      Pla transition temperature is well below 80. This means it would be in a soft state and any force can deform it. Add the temperature from the melted ABS to the situation aaaaaand..

  • @ulliulli
    @ulliulli หลายเดือนก่อน

    That printer in that config costs ~3700€... I'm jealous ^^

    • @saintjohnny45
      @saintjohnny45 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Most youtubers got their printers for free. Its a bit weird to think about

  • @xpim3d
    @xpim3d หลายเดือนก่อน

    More materials pls

  • @curtisnewton895
    @curtisnewton895 หลายเดือนก่อน

    just disable the heatbed after a couple of layers...and use walls...voila...no more warping

  • @valent_t
    @valent_t หลายเดือนก่อน

    Redo tests with nylon and PC!!!

  • @GuardianLords
    @GuardianLords หลายเดือนก่อน

    Nylon with PETG support

  • @n1ffl3r65
    @n1ffl3r65 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Moin
    Please test
    PLA + ASA /
    PLA + PC /
    PETG + PC

  • @g.s.3389
    @g.s.3389 หลายเดือนก่อน

    t would be nice if you could add nylon to the test
    tthx

  • @TheKonamiMan
    @TheKonamiMan หลายเดือนก่อน

    Wish I could afford a Prusa XL to do stuff like this.

    • @willofthemaker
      @willofthemaker หลายเดือนก่อน

      I'm really hoping prusa comes out with a 300 cubed core xy tool changer. Even 2 or 3 Print heads would be great

    • @krollmond7544
      @krollmond7544 หลายเดือนก่อน

      ​@willofthemaker the XL is 350 cubed

    • @willofthemaker
      @willofthemaker หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@krollmond7544 true. I honestly thought it was bigger. Although I think the structure is so strange. Why not the vertical struts in the front instead of the half cantilevered frame. Leads to a horrific enclosure solution that requires way too much time to put together. I don't have near enough time for that nonsense

  • @Lika12061
    @Lika12061 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Brim of PLA and ABS on top maybe.

  • @dethdeks
    @dethdeks 10 วันที่ผ่านมา

    the abs warping test is kind of an unfair test on your printer as abs is susceptible to warping from any air temp change. so printing it in an open air printer is going to cause it to warp either way

  • @Andyah
    @Andyah หลายเดือนก่อน

    printing abs need enclosure...need heat around the part (like 40+c ) and no wind blowing..then it wont warp. and let it cool down slowly inside the enclosure.

  • @Stef-an
    @Stef-an 25 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Oh so basically I should own a multi-material capable 1200$ printer to do this "trick" :D I could also pay half of that to get an enclosed printer and print ABS with much less hassle and "trickery"

  • @Benutzername0000
    @Benutzername0000 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Did stefan told u to pronounce "multi" weirdly like that😅?"

    • @JanTecEngineering
      @JanTecEngineering  หลายเดือนก่อน

      You mean British instead of American?

    • @Benutzername0000
      @Benutzername0000 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@JanTecEngineering the british pronounciation doesn't sound like that. Yours and Stefans is more like a very heavy german accent, which is ok i guess but funny nonetheless

  • @lukeosnabrugge4706
    @lukeosnabrugge4706 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Wenn das Video auf englisch ist, wäre es für die internationale Zuschauer bestimmt auch gut, wenn die Grafiktitel Beschriftung auf englisch.

  • @kingbaaka3D
    @kingbaaka3D หลายเดือนก่อน

    PLA raft? or brims?? pla infill XD

  • @ImaginationToForm
    @ImaginationToForm หลายเดือนก่อน

    Maybe more than one PLA layer with ABS.

  • @wesc98034
    @wesc98034 หลายเดือนก่อน

    "As I already knew from previous tests, PLA has by far the best layer adhesion" Er, TPU has the best layer adhesion of any of the tested materials. Your mounting solution for the TPU-TPU test was just incorrect for a flexible material. Surely you know this though so why misrepresent the fact?

  • @berlinberlin4246
    @berlinberlin4246 หลายเดือนก่อน

    For fhe Algorithmus 😅

  • @J4CKT
    @J4CKT หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Finding "tricks" to print ABS on an open air machine AND with a reduced bed temp isn't an achievement that people should be aiming for. At the very least put a cardboard box over the machine to increase the ambient as much as you can and go slow enough to where a fan isn't required and enclose it as much as you can. That way you can print a semi decent ABS part on a machine that isn't meant for it.
    I suggest watching this video to better understand what's happening to the part you're printing and how much temperature really affects the quality of the parts you're printing especially when using materials that want a higher ambient like ABS/ASA/PC/PA etc.
    If you need an ABS part, at least try to get as close to abs printing conditions as possible - not as far away as possible.
    th-cam.com/video/U-RvbcHbEe4/w-d-xo.html

    • @JanTecEngineering
      @JanTecEngineering  หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      First of all, you're right. My go-to ABS setup is also an enlcosed machine with 100 °C + heated bed.
      But: there are still printers out there without heated bed (Cetus for example) and if you happen to need a part with better temperature resistance than just PLA, such a method could be useful. Secondly, this is just a concept, that also could be applied to other filaments, like PP, that do not require a warm chamber but won't stick to common print surfaces.

  • @ch.wey.4406
    @ch.wey.4406 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Oah ne, jetzt fängst Du auch noch mit Englisch an ... kann man nicht supporten -.-

  • @TheNamelessOne12357
    @TheNamelessOne12357 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    You're really print ABS wrong. In order to print ABS you should trash that PEI sheet, install glass, use PVP and 110C bed. Zero warping, 100% success.

    • @naasking
      @naasking หลายเดือนก่อน

      I print ASA on glass. It's fine but still warps without elevated chamber temps. Also, with a 110C bed temp, you'll get elephant's foot.

    • @TheLaXandro
      @TheLaXandro หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Apparenly we glass guys have been printing it wrong the entire time, and PLA's all the bed adhesion we need afterall. I guess PLA's useful for something afterall.

    • @TheNamelessOne12357
      @TheNamelessOne12357 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@naasking Use proper adhesive. I use polyvinylpyrrolidone dissolved in isopropyl alcohol. Zero warping, even on 100C bed.

    • @aarrodri
      @aarrodri หลายเดือนก่อน +2

      Missing the point dude.

  • @Quieckel
    @Quieckel หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Rede doch einfach Deutsch :/

    • @marc_frank
      @marc_frank หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    • @riba2233
      @riba2233 หลายเดือนก่อน +8

      Why, he does both.

    • @chyrt
      @chyrt หลายเดือนก่อน +3

      Englisch ist besser

    • @CraftySven
      @CraftySven หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      he does both and doesn't alienate non German speakers from his audience. such a great skill.

    • @VideoMazk
      @VideoMazk หลายเดือนก่อน

      th-cam.com/video/XdLatRhwVE8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JuKKTn_x4q0LC7JM