Thanks for your very clear video. I have a weird issue after rewiring mine, about the same as the one you used in your demonstration. When I press the pedal the engine works as expected, but the light goes down!!! I cannot figure out why. It goes up again when I release the pedal. My bulb is low consumption (led). The only thing that I can see as an issue is the wire I used. Maybe not strong enough to carry the current for both the engine and the light. But I could not see why, the bulb being so low consumption and the engine running so well even at full speed! Thanks in advance for your thoughts :) (I try to avoid having to rewire with a stronger wire!). UPDATE: It was the wire! The main one (going to the wall) should be rated 110v (18 gauge), the one going to the pedal (in my case) is lighter: 22 gauge). All is good now! Thanks again for the video.
Pfaff 30 inherited it from my mom after she passed. It was frozen so I took it apart, cleaned it, oiled it and removed any rust on it. I am now preparing to re-wire using the singer wiring method and re-paint. The machine has lost all it's paint so i finished cleaning the body and sanding it ready to paint.
You gave a lot of detail about how the machine works but like another couple of comments ... you didn't actually show how to rewire that connection bit!!
I just acquired a 66 Red Eye Singer Machine built-in 1920. I believe it was a treadle machine converted aftermarket as the moto is not a Singer motor. So I need a new belt, new wiring, and a new rubber wheel for the bobbin winder. But the paint and decals are in really good condition. It is set in a case that does not look original, it's not wooden, well it is but it's been covered by a cloth that is worn and the handle is broken.
@@Tina-be7be No knee control. I have never heard of that on a vintage machine. I am pretty sure my machine was a treddle converted to electric. I do have knee control on my newer machines, but only for lifting the foot. Now that I think of it my mom had a sewing machine when I was little that came in a cabinet. It was run with a knee instead of a foot pad. In fact, when I learn to sew in school, (dating myself) I was surprised that those machines had foot peddles.
I just found a singer 306w and I had to take the foot pedal out of the wiring box and I forgot how to put it back. do you have a video showing where the foot pedal wire goes? I want to say it goes in the middle with the motor wire. Thanks
@@rhondamercado7527 I assume by wiring box you mean the plug on the machine. One wire hooks the center post the other hooks to the outside post that the motor is NOT hooked to. You can join my facebook group and get more help and post pictures so I have a better understanding of your problem. Link to my group in on my home page.
We are planning on rewiring a 158.480 Model 48 Zig Zag Kenmore my wife just got with 16 gauge wire and was wondering whether or not to convert to a three prong with ground or sticking with the factory two wire? Are there pros or cons to doing this considering the age of the motor/machine? Just trying to avoid a fire hazard since there was a slip from a service repair in '97 that noted that the original owner had smelt burning and saw smoke coming from the machine. Figured we'd go ahead and convert the incandescent bulb to an LED considering that the machine shows discoloration following along the wiring from the bulb to the switch for the light with significant discoloration around the light switch. Any suggestions regarding replacing the socket and wiring for the light since the switch feels hot to the touch when switched on? Cars are what I'm used to working on and this will be my first sewing machine rebuild, so I'd appreciate any advice, thanks.
@@seandobbs463 Adding a ground will not help to prevent a fire, it could help to prevent being shocked if it is properly wired, should there ever be a short. If you wire it properly then there shouldn’t be a problem with a short. Machines today still do not have grounds on them. Whether 12, 24, 48, or 120 volts the basics are all the same. A hot and a neutral, just turn the power Orr and unplug the machine. 120 volts definitely hurts If you get hit. Here is this full video if you need. th-cam.com/video/UM-wJJgTC8U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=TXS7YRSvIgtJnR8o
Thanks for this,I have a machine in a base that has a a weird looking thing in the base that the electrical wires run through before going into the machine.
I have a 1910 Singer No 15. It was originally treadle powered but was converted to electric. The wiring and motor was old cords, I may just buy new light and motor.
My machine is a white I believe a prior to the singer and it has 2 ground and 1 hot to the pedal ? A singel metal box with 3 post on one side and 2 post to connect to on the other. The same principle as your video but why 3 wires to the pedal?
Have a BelAir Bantam model 33, have to replace all wires. This model has external plugs in back right corner and all the wires are bad.. need help to put wires in plug box correctly.
I have a Zundapp (motorcycle company) sewing machine. Motor is 220/240 volt. Wires are Black, Red and Gray. It was spliced into a 110v plug with bare wires exposed. Looking to replace the plug. If I understand correctly I cover up one of the hot wires (black or red) and just use the other hot and the neutral gray wire. I'll end up with a functional albeit underpowered machine. I can also reattach the proper 220/240 volt plug and use a step down transformer to 110volt.
Bobbins do not get out of time, I assume you mean the hook is out of time. Why do you believe it is out of time, have you checked the timing or is it just not picking up the lower thread?
One of the springs on the light Switch, I call it the primary one for it comes first Upon inspection is broken any Idea of where I can find one LOL, any suggestion will be deeply appreciated, Thanks for your excellent videos.
I have a 99 and a 127 that need reworking. The 127 will probably be easiest since the electrics are not original, so I don't have to fuss about keeping everything as original as possible.
I have the exact same model with original cloth wire covering. Do you recommend a good store to purchase new wires for the machine? Also, there also seems to be a lot of lubricant in various parts of the machine. Should I just get as much as I can out and then just lightly lube it? Thank you.
I made the video to give in depth information on rewiring from scratch. For the power cord and foot pedal there is an all in one cord that makes it much easier. You can get it off Amazon. amzn.to/3SoAoLv To wire the motor you can get a kit off ebay www.ebay.com/itm/224421921943 For the light you can get a replacement on ebay as well. www.ebay.com/itm/290894165984?hash=item43baa4b7e0:g:Us8AAOSwAfVb7HDB&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoM9KHTou7DzzCT%2BMPjtGu1vYZyz3e%2BqyyXUqLz9qlRbSrjkYr2F3B53lkyxtfSDauCtbeBLc8bx8MJoOP%2Friz021y%2FJQwoDlqY6WVMePlAQPQ8BwIx8wkXde%2B%2BGe08BeAaUCRw4uqRsYViOwBCuZRerYQYwp5ClDMcWGeLL8PLGVFHzaj63ZcZSSLOyNiY1dA%2B2GQ6NPOg8%2FdlQ4vlU37zg%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR97IxNr_YA
I have a Monarch Deluxe serial number A80039. There is 1 pink wire that is coming from the inside of the machine and a brown one that is coming from the motor. Both have been cut.
Like many people, I have an older machine. It has a three-pronged cord, but when it’s plugged in, it’s on. The handbook clearly says to unplug it when not in use. The wall plug us in an inconvenient location. I would like to add an on off switch to the cord…or plug it into an extension cord with an on off switch. Any reason not to do that? Is one approach better than the other? Thanks.
Most of these old machines just need to be rewired, cleaned, lubricated, and their then as "good as new"! We have an old singer that's about 80 years old. Runs and sews way better then our $700. new, plastic maching!!!
Yes, the steel that was used in the old machines, craftsmanship and quality control was many times better than what is sold today. The old machines were built to last several lifetimes, the machines today are built to have a limited life.
I'm trying to get a Singer 66 up and running again. The wiring has me vexed as I've never tried to masquerade as an electrician before. The finish is lovely but it needs new belts and, I think, new wiring. It looks like it had been rewired once before but I don't even really know where to begin. Truthfully electrical work scares me stiff because I could make a mistake and fry myself or burn my house down.
Here is the full video it may help you. You should always respect electricity and double check your work to ensue you did not make a mistake, If you are scared of it then you might be better off having someone who is experienced with electricity rewire it.
@@sewingmachinetipsandtricks9079 Thanks! I’m actually about 2/3 of the way through it taking notes. The marine shrink tube seems exceedingly useful. I’m going to consult some sewing machine shops and get some quotes about bringing it back to its full potential.
The only machines I have seen with capacitors are some Bernina's. Capacitors are for delivering a quick high boost of electricity to a motor to increase its starting power and torque. If it is properly working and installed in a safely then it is fine and I would leave it in place.
Thank you for this video. My motor is different even though the machine looks the same. It has a knee lever to work. When I tested it (I bought it from someone) the motor smokes. Can you tell me what you think that is if you know. Thank you.
Either the motor has been improperly lubricated and has a lot of oil inside that needs to be cleaned out, or the motor is burnt up and needs to be replaced
I bought exact machine in cabinet for $50, wires disintegrating, frozen/seized up, I’m clueless about re-wiring, but I do want a new “lead power cord” so the new electrical is not running through cabinet. Can I just cut off existing wiring? Help!
I have a Singer 66 from 1928 with an original BU 7-B motor. The cords are destroyed, but I’d love to keep the old motor - is there any way to test if it works before trying to wire it? Never done any electric work before.
You can use 16 or 18, which ever works better size wise. If you are rewiring a female plug that plugs into the machine size 18 will be much easier to work with.
I have what looks to be the same machine. Wiring is totally shot in it. I am a 75 year old great grammie who just wants to challange herself to see if I can get machine to work as a machine to do jeans quilts and bags to give away to needy. I read a little about this machine that it will sew through heavy materials easily , so I would like to give it a try and dedicate this machine to just one job. How do I send you pics of what I have and hear your suggestions please. I am owner of several Pfaffs and Berninas from the 40's 50's So Singer is new to me.
Not sure if my message went out or got deleted by me by mistake. I have an old singer machine, # on plaque says AK343959 A tabletop pop up model in a cabinet. I have 2 wires from light with no colors on them, wire casing have been stripped but I heated some heat shrink wrap on them so they are OK now. 2 wires from coming behind and from modular plug, both black, 2 more wires from under machine, one white and a black one. I suspect that there must be two more coming from the button mechanism that the knee arm pushes on but I cannot presently locate it. I know it's here, ( I just have to find it). How do I wire it all together? I had changed all the wiring previously and then left it like that due to procrastination and now I'm stuck. Please help as I'm in a daze trying to figure out how to do it. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much. George
I want to rewire my Franklin that was recently gifted to me. It’s the sears one with swirly design not the Egyptian design. It has the cloth covered triple wire coming out and goes to a round three prong male plug. The female splits to the wall and the pedal.
The wiring is always the same, it may look different but it operates the same. You have the power and neutral coming from the wall, the pedal is just a switch which is either put in the power or neutral wire.
@@stevecernek7877 Your very welcome, there is another video that goes deeper into rewiring. you should be able to click on it in the last 10 seconds of this video. If you can't find it and would like to see it let me know.
Steve Cernek; I have the same exact 1927 Franklin Rotary, with the cloth covered 3 twisted wires coming out of the motor, with the weird 3 pronged plug. I have no foot pedal either.
IVE GOT 2 WIRES FROM PEDAL GOING TO A 3 WIRE RECEPTACLE ON A KENMORE 1695180 AND 2 WIRES FROM THE WALL POWER .....DOES THE #2 POST TAKE TWO WIRES (ONE FROM THE PEDAL AND ONE FROM THE WALLPOWER??
Wiring on vintage sewing machines is basically all the same. The main difference is the motor, the 401 has an internal motor rather than an externally mounted motor but both are gear driven. The 401 has a separate wire and plug for the pedal but inside the machine the wire hooks up the same.
i have a 201 the foot pedal was severed . i removed it and am trying to use a foot pedal from a 221. i tried it and only the light worked. i would appreciate some advice.
I have a necchi bu nova I don't have a foot pedal it's a pedal that was mounted to table that you would use you knee to operate I can't get it to work Is there anyway I can contact you
I understand your intentions here, but I didn't need to listen to all the discussion of safety and warnings. I need to fix a sewing machine. If I didn't understand the dangers involved, I wouldn't be trying to fix it!
That is great, you can simply move the play head past the warnings. You are not the only person who watches the videos, there are many people who do not understand the dangers associated with repairing electrical devises. I want to help people but I do not want to be responsible for someone electrocuting themselves or burning down their house due to not understanding the risks involved.
@@sewingmachinetipsandtricks9079 with all due respect, maybe you should change the title of the video to,, "The dangers of bad wiring" on a vintage sewing machine..
In short he is switching the neutral using the footpedal. Hot and Neutral go to the wiring block with the neutral being switched by the footpedal on the center terminal. He really should have had a basic wiring diagram so people can see. I am an electrician so it was earier for me. I may use a 3 conductor feed and add a ground to mine.
![ปฏิเสธไม่ไหว (Crush on you) - LIPTA feat. No One Else [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NBw1jF342vw/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm working on two 15-91s! One for me and one for my sister. Thanks for all the great videos, I've learned so much from watching you!
You are very welcome!
Thank you for watching and commenting🙂
I'm rewiring a singer 15-91 for my wife. Thank-you for the very informative video.
You are very welcome, if you have any questions let me know.
Looking to replace the electrical cord and the electrical cord to the foot pedal of my 1954 Singer 99K, desk model. Love your vid! Thanks!
I'm currently rewiring a singer 201K from 1948 that belonged to my great-grandmother it has been sitting in the basement unused since the 70s
Thanks for your very clear video. I have a weird issue after rewiring mine, about the same as the one you used in your demonstration. When I press the pedal the engine works as expected, but the light goes down!!! I cannot figure out why. It goes up again when I release the pedal. My bulb is low consumption (led).
The only thing that I can see as an issue is the wire I used. Maybe not strong enough to carry the current for both the engine and the light. But I could not see why, the bulb being so low consumption and the engine running so well even at full speed!
Thanks in advance for your thoughts :) (I try to avoid having to rewire with a stronger wire!).
UPDATE: It was the wire! The main one (going to the wall) should be rated 110v (18 gauge), the one going to the pedal (in my case) is lighter: 22 gauge). All is good now! Thanks again for the video.
Pfaff 30 inherited it from my mom after she passed. It was frozen so I took it apart, cleaned it, oiled it and removed any rust on it. I am now preparing to re-wire using the singer wiring method and re-paint. The machine has lost all it's paint so i finished cleaning the body and sanding it ready to paint.
Thanks so much I love my grandma mach. Have used it for years now I am order my wires to keep it going Thank you again
You gave a lot of detail about how the machine works but like another couple of comments ... you didn't actually show how to rewire that connection bit!!
My wife replaced all the wiring on her sewing machine without any problems. Pretty simple.
I just acquired a 66 Red Eye Singer Machine built-in 1920. I believe it was a treadle machine converted aftermarket as the moto is not a Singer motor. So I need a new belt, new wiring, and a new rubber wheel for the bobbin winder. But the paint and decals are in really good condition. It is set in a case that does not look original, it's not wooden, well it is but it's been covered by a cloth that is worn and the handle is broken.
I just got the same exact thing! weird.
I just got the same sewing machine but mine came in a wood cabinet. Does yours have a knee control? Mine does and I had never heard of that before!
@@Tina-be7be No knee control. I have never heard of that on a vintage machine. I am pretty sure my machine was a treddle converted to electric. I do have knee control on my newer machines, but only for lifting the foot. Now that I think of it my mom had a sewing machine when I was little that came in a cabinet. It was run with a knee instead of a foot pad. In fact, when I learn to sew in school, (dating myself) I was surprised that those machines had foot peddles.
440 Hz (avionics) makes your hand grab on.
Thanks for the video. I've been procrastinating.
A very helpful video and you did indeed make sense. Thank you!
I just found a singer 306w and I had to take the foot pedal out of the wiring box and I forgot how to put it back. do you have a video showing where the foot pedal wire goes? I want to say it goes in the middle with the motor wire. Thanks
@@rhondamercado7527
I assume by wiring box you mean the plug on the machine.
One wire hooks the center post the other hooks to the outside post that the motor is NOT hooked to.
You can join my facebook group and get more help and post pictures so I have a better understanding of your problem. Link to my group in on my home page.
We are planning on rewiring a 158.480 Model 48 Zig Zag Kenmore my wife just got with 16 gauge wire and was wondering whether or not to convert to a three prong with ground or sticking with the factory two wire? Are there pros or cons to doing this considering the age of the motor/machine? Just trying to avoid a fire hazard since there was a slip from a service repair in '97 that noted that the original owner had smelt burning and saw smoke coming from the machine. Figured we'd go ahead and convert the incandescent bulb to an LED considering that the machine shows discoloration following along the wiring from the bulb to the switch for the light with significant discoloration around the light switch. Any suggestions regarding replacing the socket and wiring for the light since the switch feels hot to the touch when switched on? Cars are what I'm used to working on and this will be my first sewing machine rebuild, so I'd appreciate any advice, thanks.
@@seandobbs463
Adding a ground will not help to prevent a fire, it could help to prevent being shocked if it is properly wired, should there ever be a short.
If you wire it properly then there shouldn’t be a problem with a short.
Machines today still do not have grounds on them.
Whether 12, 24, 48, or 120 volts the basics are all the same. A hot and a neutral, just turn the power Orr and unplug the machine. 120 volts definitely hurts If you get hit.
Here is this full video if you need.
th-cam.com/video/UM-wJJgTC8U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=TXS7YRSvIgtJnR8o
Thanks for this,I have a machine in a base that has a a weird looking thing in the base that the electrical wires run through before going into the machine.
I have a 1910 Singer No 15. It was originally treadle powered but was converted to electric. The wiring and motor was old cords, I may just buy new light and motor.
My machine is a white I believe a prior to the singer and it has 2 ground and 1 hot to the pedal ? A singel metal box with 3 post on one side and 2 post to connect to on the other. The same principle as your video but why 3 wires to the pedal?
Have a BelAir Bantam model 33, have to replace all wires. This model has external plugs in back right corner and all the wires are bad.. need help to put wires in plug box correctly.
I have a Zundapp (motorcycle company) sewing machine. Motor is 220/240 volt. Wires are Black, Red and Gray. It was spliced into a 110v plug with bare wires exposed. Looking to replace the plug. If I understand correctly I cover up one of the hot wires (black or red) and just use the other hot and the neutral gray wire. I'll end up with a functional albeit underpowered machine. I can also reattach the proper 220/240 volt plug and use a step down transformer to 110volt.
IVE HAD 3 ZUNDAPP CYCLES AND I AM NOT SURE BUT YOU MAY BE ABLE TO GET AWAY WITH 11O VOLTS AS YOU SAY WITH LESS POWER ND MAY RUN SLOWER
Singer 5430C bobbin out of time. Tried everything. Please help. Thanks. Doreen
Bobbins do not get out of time, I assume you mean the hook is out of time.
Why do you believe it is out of time, have you checked the timing or is it just not picking up the lower thread?
Thanks for the lesson on electricity. When are you going to do a video to show how to actually rewire it, though?
th-cam.com/video/UM-wJJgTC8U/w-d-xo.html
What type and size wire should I use
One of the springs on the light Switch, I call it the primary one for it comes first Upon inspection is broken any Idea of where I can find one LOL, any suggestion will be deeply appreciated, Thanks for your excellent videos.
I have a 99 and a 127 that need reworking. The 127 will probably be easiest since the electrics are not original, so I don't have to fuss about keeping everything as original as possible.
Need help with replacing bad wiring on Improved Eldredge Rotary. It has two "plugs"
Same, I have 2 with 2 round wire boxes
I have a 1918 singer needs new wiring to light, motor and foot pedal. light and motor plugs directly into the foot pedal
I have the exact same model with original cloth wire covering. Do you recommend a good store to purchase new wires for the machine? Also, there also seems to be a lot of lubricant in various parts of the machine. Should I just get as much as I can out and then just lightly lube it? Thank you.
I made the video to give in depth information on rewiring from scratch.
For the power cord and foot pedal there is an all in one cord that makes it much easier.
You can get it off Amazon.
amzn.to/3SoAoLv
To wire the motor you can get a kit off ebay
www.ebay.com/itm/224421921943
For the light you can get a replacement on ebay as well.
www.ebay.com/itm/290894165984?hash=item43baa4b7e0:g:Us8AAOSwAfVb7HDB&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoM9KHTou7DzzCT%2BMPjtGu1vYZyz3e%2BqyyXUqLz9qlRbSrjkYr2F3B53lkyxtfSDauCtbeBLc8bx8MJoOP%2Friz021y%2FJQwoDlqY6WVMePlAQPQ8BwIx8wkXde%2B%2BGe08BeAaUCRw4uqRsYViOwBCuZRerYQYwp5ClDMcWGeLL8PLGVFHzaj63ZcZSSLOyNiY1dA%2B2GQ6NPOg8%2FdlQ4vlU37zg%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR97IxNr_YA
@@sewingmachinetipsandtricks9079 Thank you so much!
I have a Monarch Deluxe serial number A80039. There is 1 pink wire that is coming from the inside of the machine and a brown one that is coming from the motor. Both have been cut.
I need help with a Singer 306. how do to get into the lamp to replace wire?
The light should be very similar to the 15.
I show how to get into the 15 here.
th-cam.com/video/UM-wJJgTC8U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=uA6KR1Nh8ExcYazz
Like many people, I have an older machine. It has a three-pronged cord, but when it’s plugged in, it’s on. The handbook clearly says to unplug it when not in use. The wall plug us in an inconvenient location. I would like to add an on off switch to the cord…or plug it into an extension cord with an on off switch. Any reason not to do that? Is one approach better than the other? Thanks.
Most of these old machines just need to be rewired, cleaned, lubricated, and their then as "good as new"!
We have an old singer that's about 80 years old. Runs and sews way better then our $700. new, plastic maching!!!
Yes, the steel that was used in the old machines, craftsmanship and quality control was many times better than what is sold today.
The old machines were built to last several lifetimes, the machines today are built to have a limited life.
I'm trying to get a Singer 66 up and running again. The wiring has me vexed as I've never tried to masquerade as an electrician before. The finish is lovely but it needs new belts and, I think, new wiring. It looks like it had been rewired once before but I don't even really know where to begin. Truthfully electrical work scares me stiff because I could make a mistake and fry myself or burn my house down.
Here is the full video it may help you.
You should always respect electricity and double check your work to ensue you did not make a mistake, If you are scared of it then you might be better off having someone who is experienced with electricity rewire it.
@@sewingmachinetipsandtricks9079 Thanks! I’m actually about 2/3 of the way through it taking notes. The marine shrink tube seems exceedingly useful. I’m going to consult some sewing machine shops and get some quotes about bringing it back to its full potential.
Hi - have a 15-91 with external GE capacitor- I’ve read that capacitors should be removed. Have you run into this before?
The only machines I have seen with capacitors are some Bernina's.
Capacitors are for delivering a quick high boost of electricity to a motor to increase its starting power and torque.
If it is properly working and installed in a safely then it is fine and I would leave it in place.
Thank you for this video. My motor is different even though the machine looks the same. It has a knee lever to work. When I tested it (I bought it from someone) the motor smokes. Can you tell me what you think that is if you know. Thank you.
Either the motor has been improperly lubricated and has a lot of oil inside that needs to be cleaned out, or the motor is burnt up and needs to be replaced
I bought exact machine in cabinet for $50, wires disintegrating, frozen/seized up, I’m clueless about re-wiring, but I do want a new “lead power cord” so the new electrical is not running through cabinet. Can I just cut off existing wiring? Help!
I have a Singer 66 from 1928 with an original BU 7-B motor. The cords are destroyed, but I’d love to keep the old motor - is there any way to test if it works before trying to wire it? Never done any electric work before.
Singer 301A NA460343 1954 Anderson, SC
I need to replace the wiring! what gauge wire do I need? 18 AWG wire?
thank you Tim
You can use 16 or 18, which ever works better size wise.
If you are rewiring a female plug that plugs into the machine size 18 will be much easier to work with.
@@sewingmachinetipsandtricks9079 thank you, sir !! great videos!!
I have what looks to be the same machine. Wiring is totally shot in it. I am a 75 year old great grammie who just wants to challange herself to see if I can get machine to work as a machine to do jeans quilts and bags to give away to needy. I read a little about this machine that it will sew through heavy materials easily , so I would like to give it a try and dedicate this machine to just one job.
How do I send you pics of what I have and hear your suggestions please.
I am owner of several Pfaffs and Berninas from the 40's 50's So Singer is new to me.
I have a 15 made in 25! The worm gear set screws are stuck and I put oil on them.
Not sure if my message went out or got deleted by me by mistake. I have an old singer machine, # on plaque says AK343959 A tabletop pop up model in a cabinet.
I have 2 wires from light with no colors on them, wire casing have been stripped but I heated some heat shrink wrap on them so they are OK now. 2 wires from coming behind and from modular plug, both black, 2 more wires from under machine, one white and a black one. I suspect that there must be two more coming from the button mechanism that the knee arm pushes on but I cannot presently locate it. I know it's here, ( I just have to find it). How do I wire it all together? I had changed all the wiring previously and then left it like that due to procrastination and now I'm stuck. Please help as I'm in a daze trying to figure out how to do it. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much. George
Need help with singer model 477,wont pick up bobbin thread
I want to rewire my Franklin that was recently gifted to me. It’s the sears one with swirly design not the Egyptian design. It has the cloth covered triple wire coming out and goes to a round three prong male plug. The female splits to the wall and the pedal.
The wiring is always the same, it may look different but it operates the same.
You have the power and neutral coming from the wall, the pedal is just a switch which is either put in the power or neutral wire.
@@sewingmachinetipsandtricks9079 thanks
@@stevecernek7877
Your very welcome, there is another video that goes deeper into rewiring. you should be able to click on it in the last 10 seconds of this video.
If you can't find it and would like to see it let me know.
Steve Cernek; I have the same exact 1927 Franklin Rotary, with the cloth covered 3 twisted wires coming out of the motor, with the weird 3 pronged plug. I have no foot pedal either.
My machine is like yours except its made by Domestic and I don't have a light. How do I know what parts to get to rewire it? The plug ins are rusty.
IVE GOT 2 WIRES FROM PEDAL GOING TO A 3 WIRE RECEPTACLE ON A KENMORE 1695180 AND 2 WIRES FROM THE WALL POWER .....DOES THE #2 POST TAKE TWO WIRES (ONE FROM THE PEDAL AND ONE FROM THE WALLPOWER??
I'm trying to rewire a singer AF 401 series will this apply
Wiring on vintage sewing machines is basically all the same.
The main difference is the motor, the 401 has an internal motor rather than an externally mounted motor but both are gear driven.
The 401 has a separate wire and plug for the pedal but inside the machine the wire hooks up the same.
Hello. I need to see how to take the old wire out of that lamp and put a new wire in.
i have a 201 the foot pedal was severed . i removed it and am trying to use a foot pedal from a 221. i tried it and only the light worked. i would appreciate some advice.
Can you show how to rewire the switch inside this light? I have a 15-91 that needs rewiring including the light switch.
Nevermind! I found the other video!
Hi I have a1945 singer 15k with a brk2-12 0.3 amp motor it ha two leads coming from the motor body and 3 from a box below?
I’m wanting to work on a variety of vintage machines. I’m interested in restoring machines.
Singer 99 1947 model. And the lamp on my 201 1956
GrayBar sewing machine...I can´t find anything on TH-cam that can help me
I have a necchi bu nova I don't have a foot pedal it's a pedal that was mounted to table that you would use you knee to operate I can't get it to work Is there anyway I can contact you
Necchi supernova need to no how to rewire the motor thanks
1965 Bernina sewing machine?
Need to rewire Kenmore Model 148.392
The wiring is very similar in all these machines, did you see the complete video?
but you didn't show us any of the actual rewiring!
Singer Model 201
I need to rewire a Free Westinghouse.
Singer 128, no light ... but the engine and foot lever. The cords are toast.
I‘m trying to rewire an imperial machine -1950?
I would like to rewire my national reversew. I cant find much info
Here is the full video I have on rewiring a machine.
th-cam.com/video/UM-wJJgTC8U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xe59CyYHUiQwEhFt
Thanks! I'll see how brave I am. I may just end up taking it to the repair shop ;)
I’m trying to rewire a singer 328K
Singer
How many cups of coffee did you have before you made this video?
I NOTICED
301A singer
I am going to restore my mothers 15-91
I understand your intentions here, but I didn't need to listen to all the discussion of safety and warnings. I need to fix a sewing machine. If I didn't understand the dangers involved, I wouldn't be trying to fix it!
That is great, you can simply move the play head past the warnings.
You are not the only person who watches the videos, there are many people who do not understand the dangers associated with repairing electrical devises.
I want to help people but I do not want to be responsible for someone electrocuting themselves or burning down their house due to not understanding the risks involved.
@@sewingmachinetipsandtricks9079 with all due respect, maybe you should change the title of the video to,, "The dangers of bad wiring" on a vintage sewing machine..
Singer 99
I have an American Beauty that needs new wiring.
White 1943 model
But you didn't show how to do it.
th-cam.com/video/UM-wJJgTC8U/w-d-xo.html
Singer 127
Singer
need to rewire a Singer 66 (1948) all wires are shot.
Singer 99k
That was very confusing
In short he is switching the neutral using the footpedal. Hot and Neutral go to the wiring block with the neutral being switched by the footpedal on the center terminal. He really should have had a basic wiring diagram so people can see. I am an electrician so it was earier for me. I may use a 3 conductor feed and add a ground to mine.
1940
I missed the actual rewiring steps.
The link to the full video is in the description.
Here it is. th-cam.com/video/UM-wJJgTC8U/w-d-xo.html