Little tip for the sanding down to thickness... If you have something that already has the right height, put it besides the wooden strips and place the sanding block onto there so that those spacers move with the block while the subject of sanding is attached to the bench. Then you will take off of the wood until the spacers prevent you from going down any lower 😊 Much like you can use chopsticks if you don't want to cut all the way through some food.
Thanks, Twist. I didn't mention it on the video, but I think that the foam makes some of the most realistic looking roads I've seen. Although some people make other methods look amazing, as well.
@@ThePixelDepotLLC I do light coats of spray paint like you did and just cheap craft paint. I would assume you could airbrush them too if you wanted. I model HO scale and use code 100 track. I find it’s the perfect hight for RR crossings. No fuss no mess. White glue it down and voila !
@@ThePixelDepotLLC lol I'm the crazy nut that has it all in his head 🤣 none of it is on paper if you looked at my older video the track plan is close to that I was using kato track actually going to use atlas on this the add on is the Peninsula and will be an industrial sper and I appreciate any help and constructive criticism you can offer thanks
🤚🤚🔫 About reducing drying time with pva: coat both surfaces and leave to dry for about 5 to 10 minutes (depending on hard or soaking in surfaces). Place piece on surface, apply pressure for a minute tops and hey presto: instand bonding.
I am getting close to doing some of these items on my N scale layout. These tips will come in handy and I will probably watch the video a few times. On the down side I found the volume of the video varied quite a bit and as I use head phones to listen so as not to disturb my better half ot was quite shocking sometimes with the highs and lows.
Only one hand up, mainly because my layout is made mainly to be accessible from top, bottom, and all sides. The scenery can be helped with realistic vehicles (including select Hotwheel's and Matchbox cars), and a few buildings. Since my layout is in & out of storage often, and frequently travels from one location to another, why have permanent scenery if: 1. I'm replacing track every 6 months due to accelerated wear 2. Needing access to derailed cars in the middle of the layout 3. Going from modern BNSF, to ww2 German trains, then to ww2 SP 4. Frequently using the open space as my workbench for Accurail kits, aswell as other models
Lookin good!!! Simple and effective. Did the spray paint react with the foam? Scenery... it's like a double edge sword. It needs to be done, but I think I'd rather go to the dentist. Ok.... that's a stretch. 🤣
It reacts a little bit causing the foam to curl up while the paint is still wet. However it flattens back out. I think the weird pattern is because of something on the foam itself. And it only seems to be the light gray.
Most of my buildings are kits that I bought, but I rarely build a kit as the manufacturer intended. I usually do some sort of kitbashing on them, both to fit the space as well as to give it some differences from all the other kits out there. The videos on building American Can cover this.
Hi Joe, some great tips there👍. My name is Charlie from Pro Tech Model Parts. I would like to talk with you for possible video review of one of our products. Please contact me via info from our website homepage. Thanks, Charlie
Looks good, I like it. Thanks Joe
Thanks!
Little tip for the sanding down to thickness... If you have something that already has the right height, put it besides the wooden strips and place the sanding block onto there so that those spacers move with the block while the subject of sanding is attached to the bench. Then you will take off of the wood until the spacers prevent you from going down any lower 😊 Much like you can use chopsticks if you don't want to cut all the way through some food.
Plywood Pacific? Don't forget about the "Foam Desert Line.
Great job on the scenery. Thanks for sharing, David
Glad you enjoyed it
Foam sheets do make good roads. Very nice tutorial. Everything is looking good. Thanks for sharing. Dave
Thanks, Dave. Still more to come!
I believe the major volume issue has been solved. Thanks for watching, everyone!
Great start on the scenery. Good tutorial on doing it. Cork and foam is a good combination for making roads and sidewalks.
Thanks, Twist. I didn't mention it on the video, but I think that the foam makes some of the most realistic looking roads I've seen. Although some people make other methods look amazing, as well.
Joe it looks great. I use the foam sheets as well. Great stuff. Thanks for sharing. David
What method do you use to paint them?
@@ThePixelDepotLLC I do light coats of spray paint like you did and just cheap craft paint. I would assume you could airbrush them too if you wanted. I model HO scale and use code 100 track. I find it’s the perfect hight for RR crossings. No fuss no mess. White glue it down and voila !
@@Crookedriverandeasternrr Agree 100%!
looks good. shows nice progress Joe
Thanks 👍 Still more to be done, but progress is good!
Hey Joe I'm planning on doing a rolling track and scenery plan so we will see how that goes lol . Really enjoying your videos thanks for sharing 👍
Just as long as I don’t have to do the scenery on it, we’re good! 😁
BTW, if you want some feedback on your plan, I'd be happy to give it a look.
@@ThePixelDepotLLC lol I'm the crazy nut that has it all in his head 🤣 none of it is on paper if you looked at my older video the track plan is close to that I was using kato track actually going to use atlas on this the add on is the Peninsula and will be an industrial sper and I appreciate any help and constructive criticism you can offer thanks
🤚🤚🔫 About reducing drying time with pva: coat both surfaces and leave to dry for about 5 to 10 minutes (depending on hard or soaking in surfaces). Place piece on surface, apply pressure for a minute tops and hey presto: instand bonding.
I will give that a try!
Hey Joe! Where are you getting your .09mm cork? I can't find anything less than 1.5mm. . . 🤔
If I recall correctly I got it from Michaels. Not in store, but on their website. It came in a multipack.
I am getting close to doing some of these items on my N scale layout. These tips will come in handy and I will probably watch the video a few times. On the down side I found the volume of the video varied quite a bit and as I use head phones to listen so as not to disturb my better half ot was quite shocking sometimes with the highs and lows.
Apologies about the sound! You are the second one to comment about the volume. I will have to figure out why it was all over the place.
Only one hand up, mainly because my layout is made mainly to be accessible from top, bottom, and all sides. The scenery can be helped with realistic vehicles (including select Hotwheel's and Matchbox cars), and a few buildings. Since my layout is in & out of storage often, and frequently travels from one location to another, why have permanent scenery if:
1. I'm replacing track every 6 months due to accelerated wear
2. Needing access to derailed cars in the middle of the layout
3. Going from modern BNSF, to ww2 German trains, then to ww2 SP
4. Frequently using the open space as my workbench for Accurail kits, aswell as other models
Joe, sorry if I missed it in the video, but what are you using for your sidewalks? Thanks for the post.....
I used two different kinds. The wider ones are from Rix/Pikestuff. The thinner ones are from Bar Mills.
@@ThePixelDepotLLC Perfect, thanks Joe.
✋🏼🤚🏼😄
Lookin good!!! Simple and effective. Did the spray paint react with the foam? Scenery... it's like a double edge sword. It needs to be done, but I think I'd rather go to the dentist. Ok.... that's a stretch. 🤣
It reacts a little bit causing the foam to curl up while the paint is still wet. However it flattens back out. I think the weird pattern is because of something on the foam itself. And it only seems to be the light gray.
@@ThePixelDepotLLC I thought the pattern added to the effect. Good to know there where no ill effects from the paint. It's all about moderation.
Do you buy your buildings or do you make them
Most of my buildings are kits that I bought, but I rarely build a kit as the manufacturer intended. I usually do some sort of kitbashing on them, both to fit the space as well as to give it some differences from all the other kits out there. The videos on building American Can cover this.
Could boost your volume a bit,hard to hear on my tablet
Thank you for the feedback!
You should use the normalize feature in your editing software, that booming music was awful
Thanks, Buz. Turns out that music clip was in the wrong channel, so it got missed during the leveling process.
Hi Joe, some great tips there👍. My name is Charlie from Pro Tech Model Parts. I would like to talk with you for possible video review of one of our products. Please contact me via info from our website homepage.
Thanks,
Charlie