If you care to revisit this video, I can help you adapt a better version of this. It's actually around the same steps, however I would highly advise (if you haven't already) removing the concrete bricks from inside of the fire pit. To consider a different alternative, this concept works the same as a cars combustion process. First, you would want two air chambers with separate sources of cold air. The bricks you moved on the lower half will suffice for the lower air chamber, however you'll want something to shield this from getting debris and various ash from clogging this up. I would personally suggest using a (flexibly) Galvanized Metal Lath, much like the flexible grid ones at home depot. The next air chamber needs to be at the top, near the upper holes. This will allow the cold air (from outside) to be sucked into these rings to forcibly push air at the upper part of the fire, creating the secondary combustion that you typically see within the "clean air technology" fire pits you see. If you want to take it a step further, you can do as I did: Two rings, weld them together. Seal each seam with RTV silicon on the outside to retain heat on the internal side without allowing air leaks. Elevate the bottom ring with fire bricks, and using the (flexibly) Galvanized Metal Lath. After, add a slight "spacer" brick, that'll touch the ring right in the middle. When putting it together, RTV silicon around the entire lower ring, right where this would meet. For the upper ring, you will want to purposefully open one of the screw holes up more to make a slightly "smaller" ring than the lower one (Or larger, whichever your preference is). After, simply layer the next bricks going up, put the ring on, and separate out the locations to correspond with the lower ring openings. This will ensure that both the upper, and lower, combustions are getting adequate cold air, which (in turn) will create a hotter, and faster combustion: Which means, smokeless. Alternatively, this also means you'll burn through wood significantly faster. However, that's how you retain smokeless fire: Having a hotter, faster fire.
I was feeling pretty good about doing this build after watching many videos from others I didn't like. But now since reading this follow up comment, not so sure about doing, so I probably won't...
In terms of the concept, it would be more efficient if the radius wasn't so large and the pit so shallow, because the flame would be far from the metal and the air flow travel would be too short to pick enough heat as it goes up before leaving through the holes. You are aiming for superheated, not just heated, lateral airflow. That's why you see that many of those other smaller commercial fire pits look like thinner, taller canisters and not like a large shallow pits. In those thin tall ones you can see the flames coming from all holes on the top like if they were flamethrowers, crazy.
You use the fire ring because concrete, which is made with water, will expand and then explode (Yes, literally explode) when it is heated. This is why they make "Fire Bricks" as well, as they're heat treated and are capable of withstanding the temperatures of a typical backyard fire pit. In the case of cost effective, the fire ring is substantially more cost effective than an entire "Fire brick" type of pit...plus it looks better.
Do you think that the interior smaller blocks are necessary? Could just gravel accomplish the same thing? Thanks for making a really good step-by-step video!
Thanks. The smaller blocks are not necessary if you can find other material that works. As far as using gravels, it would be hard accomplish the chamber wall needed for the super heated oxygen. Hope that helps. 😃
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.15 (3/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IVwR87OH0_A/mqdefault.jpg)
If you care to revisit this video, I can help you adapt a better version of this. It's actually around the same steps, however I would highly advise (if you haven't already) removing the concrete bricks from inside of the fire pit.
To consider a different alternative, this concept works the same as a cars combustion process.
First, you would want two air chambers with separate sources of cold air. The bricks you moved on the lower half will suffice for the lower air chamber, however you'll want something to shield this from getting debris and various ash from clogging this up. I would personally suggest using a (flexibly) Galvanized Metal Lath, much like the flexible grid ones at home depot.
The next air chamber needs to be at the top, near the upper holes. This will allow the cold air (from outside) to be sucked into these rings to forcibly push air at the upper part of the fire, creating the secondary combustion that you typically see within the "clean air technology" fire pits you see.
If you want to take it a step further, you can do as I did: Two rings, weld them together. Seal each seam with RTV silicon on the outside to retain heat on the internal side without allowing air leaks. Elevate the bottom ring with fire bricks, and using the (flexibly) Galvanized Metal Lath. After, add a slight "spacer" brick, that'll touch the ring right in the middle. When putting it together, RTV silicon around the entire lower ring, right where this would meet. For the upper ring, you will want to purposefully open one of the screw holes up more to make a slightly "smaller" ring than the lower one (Or larger, whichever your preference is). After, simply layer the next bricks going up, put the ring on, and separate out the locations to correspond with the lower ring openings.
This will ensure that both the upper, and lower, combustions are getting adequate cold air, which (in turn) will create a hotter, and faster combustion: Which means, smokeless.
Alternatively, this also means you'll burn through wood significantly faster. However, that's how you retain smokeless fire: Having a hotter, faster fire.
I was feeling pretty good about doing this build after watching many videos from others I didn't like. But now since reading this follow up comment, not so sure about doing, so I probably won't...
With the lava rocks inserted at the base, doesn't that make it hard to clean all the ash and soot from the pit after a few burns?
Yeah bad move
Just use sand.
Very helpful. I am glad I watched it before I began installing my own. Thanks for sharing!
I’m excited for you. You’re welcome 😃
Cool diagram cool smokeless 😊😊😊
Terrific video; very clear; thank you!
Thank you 😃
Thank you for this excellent educational video. I learned a great deal. Carry On Sir!
Thank you
Please , tell me how u connect the wood to the bricks.
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing
In terms of the concept, it would be more efficient if the radius wasn't so large and the pit so shallow, because the flame would be far from the metal and the air flow travel would be too short to pick enough heat as it goes up before leaving through the holes. You are aiming for superheated, not just heated, lateral airflow. That's why you see that many of those other smaller commercial fire pits look like thinner, taller canisters and not like a large shallow pits. In those thin tall ones you can see the flames coming from all holes on the top like if they were flamethrowers, crazy.
@@SomeoneCommenting very well said. You’re right. Also I think I can make a bigger fire and it would have that superheated effect 😀
What size is the secondary burn holes?
7:40 1/2"
Amazon has a fire ring with the holes already in it.
They do? You mean I didn’t have to drill all those holes? Why didn’t you tell me before I did this? 😅😅😅
Three times the price, I’ll drill my own holes .
Put the 4K sticker back on the thumbnails please it is super cool
Please 😭😭😭
Do they not sell pre drilled fire rings? Everyone is drilling these things. The manufacturers are missing out on a market here.
I haven’t seen it. That’s a great idea for manufacturers. I hope they read your comment. 😃
Nah. Cost prohibitive to make them when you are trying to keep cost down with other competitors.
i found one on amazon, nearly 3x the cost😅
Why you use fire ring? How it will be if I use only stones? Fire ring helping with something?
Greetings from Poland
You use the fire ring because concrete, which is made with water, will expand and then explode (Yes, literally explode) when it is heated. This is why they make "Fire Bricks" as well, as they're heat treated and are capable of withstanding the temperatures of a typical backyard fire pit. In the case of cost effective, the fire ring is substantially more cost effective than an entire "Fire brick" type of pit...plus it looks better.
Do you think that the interior smaller blocks are necessary? Could just gravel accomplish the same thing?
Thanks for making a really good step-by-step video!
Thanks. The smaller blocks are not necessary if you can find other material that works. As far as using gravels, it would be hard accomplish the chamber wall needed for the super heated oxygen. Hope that helps. 😃
Hello, what size are the retaining wall blocks?
Hi. 11in X 4in X 6in
What is the inside diameter of the blocks once in the circle?
you need about 1" gap. since he used the 28" he would have a 30" diameter
In person without cherry picking the shots... NO SUCH THING AS SMOKELESS. 😂
How many retaining wall blocks did you use on the exterior of the firepit?
do people not watch the video?
"put down 12 and remove one for holes." each layer after that got 12