This was absolutely mind blowingly simple to see you explain it so well and making a wooden holder is right up my avenue, great, great, great advice. These videos are exactly the info I needed.
The biggest help for me was using a helping hands station to hold everything still and in manageable positions, and using a decent, variable-temp soldering iron. The $10 department store irons just don't cut it.
Thank you! I really needed to know if the leg was bent up and soldered at the first ground point! This is my first job. I gutted a t type, and am soldering in 2 hunbuckers, with a new 3 way switch, I vol pot 1 tone pot. Thanks, I made a fixture with the control plate screwed down lightly so it does not move. I wanted to get as much info as possible, because all of this is very expensive. To get a great tone! I have the seymour duncan schematic to solder! It's people like you who really help people out here.
I like this guys video; his vids on caps is straightforward and informative, as is this video for layout. My only comment is that the critical part of good solder joint, and not creating cold solder joints that eventually fail, is to heat the work enough so that it melts the solder and then remove the iron rather than melting the solder directly on the iron tip.
Hey Dylan....I got a stiff neck from just watching you holding your head to the side, to stay in the video frame... Another good video my friend! I am glad you made this video! I have seen some truly horrific soldiering jobs in the recent past. One guitar had what looked to be 5 blobs of soldier on top of eachother. Whomever did the work, didn't bother to flow the new soldier into the old; they just kept melting more and more on top of the previous attempts. The blob ended up being close to 1/8" thick, and covered half the top of a CTS pot. Even with all that soldier, the wires still had popped off! I wish I had taken pictures; you would be on the floor rolling, in laughter!
I usually set my station right at 700 degrees F. I use a small chisel tip for larger areas such as pot grounds and pointer for smaller areas such as wire connections. My soldering station has auto on/off this is fantastic because one of the other biggest failures in soldering is a burnt tip with rosins, also wire mesh cleaning is better than the wet sponge because it does not lower the temperature like a wet sponge. After each solder joint clean the tip, this removes and lingering rosin. Always make sure the tip is shiny silver (called tinned) and you will have good success soldering! By the way I’m an electrical Engineer and now retired entrepreneur, and as a hobby I play guitar, and fix/modify musicians instruments.
For me is so hard change a single coil for a HR in a strat-style guitar and now I can't finish the soldering the pickup ground just won't stick to the pot, ut's so frustrating, feels like I never get It done
@@rafaelcabralwilliams you need to rough the surface and use a little solder paste also you need some heat 700+degrees F. First get the solder to pool where you are going to put the ground wire. Once it is pooling stick the wire into, just make sure the ground wire is tinned. This should solve your issue
Ordering some new pickups during the pandemic, so learning to change them myself, and soldering is the only part I'm nervous about. I've watched a lot of videos to get ready, and this is far and away the best I've seen yet. Well done, thank you.
Great vid, you pointed out the main reasons why a lot of people fail at soldering, more vids please! Could you please explain solder iron heat, wattages and the correct heat to use in different applications? Thanks.
Hey sorry if this is a stupid question I'm a noob lol, but when you talk about soldering iron is it actual iron? As far as I know the melting point for iron is like 1500ºC and I doubt that these soldering tools can reach that temperature...
@@luisybarraaspichueta3405 , It is called a soldering "Iron" for the same reason that anything made of iron, or iron alloys is typically called "iron." Iron is the cheapest component of any of its alloys, including copper. Copper, however is the easiest metal to form a thermoplastic bond with lead, thus making it the best metal for use in soldering TIPS, but being much more expensive may explain why old fashioned heated-in-fire soldering tool BODIES were iron or steel with copper tips attached.
Dylan, thank you so much for all of your videos. I'm new to your channel and amazed at the wealth of knowledge and information. I started modding and repairing my own guitars about 3 years ago,and I love it. Nothing better to me than my Squier Vintage Modified Stratocaster that I upgraded to CTS POTS, Gavitt cloth wire, Orange drop capacitor on both knobs,and wired the bridge pickup to the bottom tone knob. I got a good deal on a set of Wilkinson Hot Vintage Pickups, installed them with the new electronics,and WOW! ITS MINE,,as you say. Totally worth it to me,and I actually didn't spend a ton on the parts mentioned. I'm the second owner of the guitar,the first guy didn't play her at all and the price I was able to get it for sealed the deal. Great guitar 👍👌,if anyone is interested in a Strat that good off the shelf,but drastically improves with imagination and a little work. Sorry long-winded,but I think you understand,lol. Take care buddy
Thank You! Two very helpful tips (I will expand on which tips you shared and whey they were helpful for me), AND at the same time, I didn't hear you mention how moving components AFTER you solder can crack the solder joint (@ 7:45 you mention the capacitor won't stay at that location; also after you soldered the cap you bent the lead and didn't re-flow that solder joint... which can easily be fixed with a quick re-flow/re-solder said solder joint/point after you snip the lead and move components in order to have the highest probability of a solid effective solder joint that is not cold or cracked from disturbances caused by moving components, mechanical shifts connected to the solder joint, etc.)(and man, cold joints are the least fun thing, can be very hard to find and diagnose, especially when trying to play guitar as soon/much as possible). Another argument (it seems to me) you made I disagree with or believe more information is vital to help prevent someone destroying their potentiometer. Many variables exist that can drastically affect the outcome of soldering to or on a potentiometer case. For example, a 40w or 60w Weller iron with a fan on in the room, a pointy/conical tip (without using your awesome trick (where you maximize heat transfer by tilting and laying the tip on its side and thus maximizing the area of contact points between the tip and pot. Case), ... basically: iron, power to iron and ability to maintain necessary temperatures to minimize heat exposure time, solder quality and type - 63/37? 60/40? Rosin-core? Lead free? % of Lead, flux, etc.? Clean pot. case with alcohol prior to soldering? Scuff‐up or not (Use abrasive to "scuff up" (and change the material/surface, increase surface area (in the scuffed area due to micro-scratches/grooves) for bonding strength between solder and material...)? Brand of pot, pot materials, MOVEMENT (another great tip and vital point you elaborated on... "helping hands" (effective ones!), vise (Panavise seems to be most-often and highly revered), Alligator clips to hold components together (and decrease movement and time needed per solder joint) and as a heatsink!, maybe forceps and/or reverse tweezers... Dirk Wacker has some invaluable guidance in his articles on effective soldering of guitar circuits and components (pretty sure he even discusses iron wattage and temperature needed to maintain and for what length of time in order to solder to potentiometer without destroying them, as well as how they can be ruined and how quickly that will happen (so the reader can gauge how much time they have before crossing that threshold and hopefully jot "learning the hard way")... Thanks for the tips (pardon the pun) on angling the pointy/conical tip for heat transfer and field ofvision, as well as for highlighting how important and energy-and-time-consuming movement is (and how critical and shockingly gamechanging it is to minimize movement via stabilizing components w/help from holders (i.e. your wood board, and the pedal 1/4" plugs for homding 1/4" jacks to solder), "helping hands", clips, etc. ). Thanks man!
Great Video Thanks! I had also wondered about people that were wiring the pots together when they are mounted to shielding on the pick guard and you can check with an ohm meter and see that they are already grounded together. You confirmed it. No need to double ground the pots. Biggest takeaway for me was to make a rig to hold the parts from moving.
Great video Dylan ! ! I've been subscribed, but haven't seen any videos from your page. Anyway, good to back under your tutelage. Simple, easy to apply and focused. Love it ! !
Hi, this was very helpful! I have a soldering station (45W) with adjustable temperature. Silly question, but what temperature do you recommend for soldering on to pots? Best regards
I usually set my station right at 700 degrees F. I use a small chisel tip for larger areas such as pot grounds and pointer for smaller areas such as wire connections. My soldering station has auto on/off this is fantastic because one of the other biggest failures in soldering is a burnt tip with rosins, also wire mesh cleaning is better than the wet sponge because it does not lower the temperature like a wet sponge. After each solder joint clean the tip, this removes and lingering rosin. Always make sure the tip is shiny silver (called tinned) and you will have good success soldering! By the way I’m an electrical Engineer and now retired entrepreneur, and as a hobby I play guitar, and fix/modify musicians instruments.
Got an expensive iron, thinking it was a really nice one. I never could get it to stay hot. I was struggling to put in a new pickup and pots last week. Finally got a $17 iron at the hardware store and it's amazing.
Excellent tutorial. I'm getting ready to work on a piezo and active Lace pickup combo in my thinline tele. If you or anyone knows of a schematic....wow would that be a help! But great video...thanks.
Best guitar soldering video I've ever seen! I just wish I didn't have to work inside the electronics cavity and deal with the wimpy Seymour Duncan wires. My god, have they gotten smaller?
thanks for explaining how to hold the tip of the iron when making a ground connection, havent seen anyone stressing this point. I was wondering why it didnt work for me and the solder kept clinging to the iron instead of the pot.
I've looked at a few of your videos and I like your approach . A knowledge and sense able view of each subject . Here's my question , Can I melt solder on an existing input jack to remove it ? But , I'm going to upgrade my guitar with a preloaded pickguard , what are your thoughts ?
This is fantastic thanks very helpful! I have a les Paul junior dc kit I am building and it came with 2 500k pots. One is linear and one is log. I thought they would both be the same type. Could you explain the difference please?
Good lesson! I was IPC solder certified for aerospace and industrial applications, and the hardest part to learn was proper preparation and getting good flow. At least you're not having to examine your solder joints under 20x microscope. That sucked...
I noticed he didn’t tin the wire or components or tip of the iron. I thought you where meant to do that? I’m guessing if you where ipc qualified you would also make a mechanical connection first such as wrapping the wire around the eyelet? From what I saw of a nasa soldering video, you never ever rely on solder holding a joint without a mechanical joint. However it is a guitar, not a spaceship
@@MrSongwriter2 You don't *have* to tin anything, heating the components sufficiently will handle it. Tinning is meant to help transfer your iron's heat quickly by using the solder to spread the heat around almost like cooking oil. It's helpful if you're using a soldering iron that isn't hot enough or if you're working in a very cramped/difficult to access place where you want to get the joint done quickly. As for wrapping wires in and around the lugs, it really isn't necessary. Pay attention to how that component and its wires will move once installed. If they're going to be completely stationary, stick the wire through the lug and solder in place. If it's possible for the wire to move (let's say the nut around your toggle switch or output jack loosens and the wires might twist around if the component spins), consider wrapping it around to protect it. But wrapping wires around every joint will just make it a pain the next time you or someone else works on the guitar.
it would be helpful to see you solder the wire to the pot. It appears you presolder a blob onto the POT first, and then you connected the ground wires. would be nice to see that done.
I preheat my soldering station to 740 this way I get a good quick heat transfer cause I use CTS pots.and use a small algater clip so I don't get posts switch hoter than need tabs to be.I like the piece of trim wood You use I was using foam but it do have little movement sometimes I'm going to go to Home Depot get Me some wood to hold my guitars electronics pots switches ect.good video.
Very informative vid. Lots of good info. I have a question. I’m rewiring a 60s Japanese guitar (1 pup, 1 volume, 1 tone). The pup has red, blue and black leads. What are they? Which is hot? Which is the ground? What’s the third lead? Thanks.
All good advice however . Would like to see a video on how to keep work still when your simply replacing one pot from the back of the guitar and don’t have a tele setup. Also something on . how to re solder on someone’s old work . It’s all real simple when ya have new everything to go to ...
I've recently started soldering and have watched numerous videos that say 350 degrees for temp. I noticed you're twice that. Is that due to not using a chisel tip? I've been practicing using 60/40 rosin core, 350 seemed just right using a chisel tip. Please clarify. Awesome video with great tips.
Man... The POV idea of making this, is just genius!!! The least I can say. Sadly was quite out of focus but its still you can definitely see whats goin on.
Thanks for taking the time to teach this content! :) Could you please expand this to include connecting together (prolonging) guitar wires? That would be great. The guitar wire I'm dealing with has an insulated central part with more wire and so I'm not sure how to connect two pieces of such wire together. It would also be great to see some common errors when doing this and how to avoid them.Thank you and cheers!
I would love to see a video that goes over ways to keep wires neat within the control cavity. I run across situations where I have dual humbuckers with 4 wires, that don’t require coil splitting and need the red/white wires not connected. It looks like a rat’s nest if I don’t create some sort of neat solution using zip ties or heat shrink “snake”, I’ll run into grounding issues, especially when dealing with the bare wire contact. It’s the difference between novice and pro work.
Question? Is a certain way the capacitor is wired ? Does it have a ground side and a lead side? Or it does not matter which way it goes in? I hope I make sense thanks.
Hi, Dylan...it is hard to get 40 watt and around 350 watt soldering iron in my country. Is it ok to use the 60 watt with an adjustable temperature? Thanks
Currently I’m working on a guitar built from steel and I am curious to know how would you go about grounding everything. I’m thinking of installing a three way switch with one volume pot for the neck and bridge and then one tone pot. I’ve done some soldering but not with a steel body guitar any advice at all would be great thanks
What type of tip should I buy. Mines toast. I have a Weller wesd51 soldering station. Been awhile since i picked it up. Forgot a lot of what i learned.
This was absolutely mind blowingly simple to see you explain it so well and making a wooden holder is right up my avenue, great, great, great advice. These videos are exactly the info I needed.
Thank you so much , Dylan . You just explained to me why I have been getting so many Cold Joints . You're a Champion .
Best tutorial for soldering guitar parts. THANK YOU Dylan
The biggest help for me was using a helping hands station to hold everything still and in manageable positions, and using a decent, variable-temp soldering iron. The $10 department store irons just don't cut it.
Thank you! I really needed to know if the leg was bent up and soldered at the first ground point! This is my first job. I gutted a t type, and am soldering in 2 hunbuckers, with a new 3 way switch, I vol pot 1 tone pot. Thanks, I made a fixture with the control plate screwed down lightly so it does not move. I wanted to get as much info as possible, because all of this is very expensive. To get a great tone! I have the seymour duncan schematic to solder! It's people like you who really help people out here.
straight forward, no nonsense, nice view of what you're doing, etc... nice vid...
I like this guys video; his vids on caps is straightforward and informative, as is this video for layout. My only comment is that the critical part of good solder joint, and not creating cold solder joints that eventually fail, is to heat the work enough so that it melts the solder and then remove the iron rather than melting the solder directly on the iron tip.
Hey Dylan....I got a stiff neck from just watching you holding your head to the side, to stay in the video frame... Another good video my friend! I am glad you made this video! I have seen some truly horrific soldiering jobs in the recent past. One guitar had what looked to be 5 blobs of soldier on top of eachother. Whomever did the work, didn't bother to flow the new soldier into the old; they just kept melting more and more on top of the previous attempts. The blob ended up being close to 1/8" thick, and covered half the top of a CTS pot. Even with all that soldier, the wires still had popped off! I wish I had taken pictures; you would be on the floor rolling, in laughter!
Thank you for the information on what pots you use. I am just getting started with this whole subject, and its good to get an inside tip.
Thanks!!!! I'm getting ready to install a pickup in a lap steel. This is very helpful!
I wished i had this video when i was first starting out,it would have saved me a lot of time. Great video.
richard small I agree totally, I’m still fairly new, but I have it pretty much figured out. It was such a rough start lost a lot of supplies.
This video had the answer to every issue I had today ready to get the job done tomorrow
Great advice. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you so much for this. I'm currently building a guitar as a school project and this helped me understand soldering so much more!
I usually set my station right at 700 degrees F. I use a small chisel tip for larger areas such as pot grounds and pointer for smaller areas such as wire connections. My soldering station has auto on/off this is fantastic because one of the other biggest failures in soldering is a burnt tip with rosins, also wire mesh cleaning is better than the wet sponge because it does not lower the temperature like a wet sponge. After each solder joint clean the tip, this removes and lingering rosin. Always make sure the tip is shiny silver (called tinned) and you will have good success soldering! By the way I’m an electrical Engineer and now retired entrepreneur, and as a hobby I play guitar, and fix/modify musicians instruments.
For me is so hard change a single coil for a HR in a strat-style guitar and now I can't finish the soldering the pickup ground just won't stick to the pot, ut's so frustrating, feels like I never get
It done
@@rafaelcabralwilliams you need to rough the surface and use a little solder paste also you need some heat 700+degrees F. First get the solder to pool where you are going to put the ground wire. Once it is pooling stick the wire into, just make sure the ground wire is tinned. This should solve your issue
Thank you for the lesson. Heat transfer is the key, that what I did wrong all these years.
one most required concept (heat) explained very well.. thank you
Love your explanation! Thanks!!!
Ordering some new pickups during the pandemic, so learning to change them myself, and soldering is the only part I'm nervous about. I've watched a lot of videos to get ready, and this is far and away the best I've seen yet. Well done, thank you.
e
Even when you "already know how to solder..."
Nice illustration of good soldering technique.
Great vid, you pointed out the main reasons why a lot of people fail at soldering, more vids please!
Could you please explain solder iron heat, wattages and the correct heat to use in different applications? Thanks.
Hey sorry if this is a stupid question I'm a noob lol, but when you talk about soldering iron is it actual iron? As far as I know the melting point for iron is like 1500ºC and I doubt that these soldering tools can reach that temperature...
@@luisybarraaspichueta3405 ,
It is called a soldering "Iron" for the same reason that anything made of iron, or iron alloys is typically called "iron."
Iron is the cheapest component of any of its alloys, including copper. Copper, however is the easiest metal to form a thermoplastic bond with lead, thus making it the best metal for use in soldering TIPS, but being much more expensive may explain why old fashioned heated-in-fire soldering tool BODIES were iron or steel with copper tips attached.
Your the best your voice is soothing
Excellent video as ever!!!
Pots away tomorrow morning!!! 😀
9:52 My piece of wood is definitely my coolest tool.
Dylan, thank you so much for all of your videos. I'm new to your channel and amazed at the wealth of knowledge and information. I started modding and repairing my own guitars about 3 years ago,and I love it. Nothing better to me than my Squier Vintage Modified Stratocaster that I upgraded to CTS POTS, Gavitt cloth wire, Orange drop capacitor on both knobs,and wired the bridge pickup to the bottom tone knob. I got a good deal on a set of Wilkinson Hot Vintage Pickups, installed them with the new electronics,and WOW! ITS MINE,,as you say. Totally worth it to me,and I actually didn't spend a ton on the parts mentioned. I'm the second owner of the guitar,the first guy didn't play her at all and the price I was able to get it for sealed the deal. Great guitar 👍👌,if anyone is interested in a Strat that good off the shelf,but drastically improves with imagination and a little work. Sorry long-winded,but I think you understand,lol. Take care buddy
Thanks for the video Dylan
Really good video.
THANK YOU FOR THIS. Most custom build guys don't hone in on the electronics. Subbed
Your great. I suck at soldering so I soldered in mini stc plugs to plug and unplug stuff. I wish guitar electronics were plug and play
Have you heard of solderless kits?
It’s a combination of focus and attention to detail and very importantly- a hot soldering iron that reaches that temperature
Thank You! Two very helpful tips (I will expand on which tips you shared and whey they were helpful for me), AND at the same time, I didn't hear you mention how moving components AFTER you solder can crack the solder joint (@ 7:45 you mention the capacitor won't stay at that location; also after you soldered the cap you bent the lead and didn't re-flow that solder joint... which can easily be fixed with a quick re-flow/re-solder said solder joint/point after you snip the lead and move components in order to have the highest probability of a solid effective solder joint that is not cold or cracked from disturbances caused by moving components, mechanical shifts connected to the solder joint, etc.)(and man, cold joints are the least fun thing, can be very hard to find and diagnose, especially when trying to play guitar as soon/much as possible). Another argument (it seems to me) you made I disagree with or believe more information is vital to help prevent someone destroying their potentiometer. Many variables exist that can drastically affect the outcome of soldering to or on a potentiometer case. For example, a 40w or 60w Weller iron with a fan on in the room, a pointy/conical tip (without using your awesome trick (where you maximize heat transfer by tilting and laying the tip on its side and thus maximizing the area of contact points between the tip and pot. Case), ... basically: iron, power to iron and ability to maintain necessary temperatures to minimize heat exposure time, solder quality and type - 63/37? 60/40? Rosin-core? Lead free? % of Lead, flux, etc.? Clean pot. case with alcohol prior to soldering? Scuff‐up or not (Use abrasive to "scuff up" (and change the material/surface, increase surface area (in the scuffed area due to micro-scratches/grooves) for bonding strength between solder and material...)? Brand of pot, pot materials, MOVEMENT (another great tip and vital point you elaborated on... "helping hands" (effective ones!), vise (Panavise seems to be most-often and highly revered), Alligator clips to hold components together (and decrease movement and time needed per solder joint) and as a heatsink!, maybe forceps and/or reverse tweezers...
Dirk Wacker has some invaluable guidance in his articles on effective soldering of guitar circuits and components (pretty sure he even discusses iron wattage and temperature needed to maintain and for what length of time in order to solder to potentiometer without destroying them, as well as how they can be ruined and how quickly that will happen (so the reader can gauge how much time they have before crossing that threshold and hopefully jot "learning the hard way")...
Thanks for the tips (pardon the pun) on angling the pointy/conical tip for heat transfer and field ofvision, as well as for highlighting how important and energy-and-time-consuming movement is (and how critical and shockingly gamechanging it is to minimize movement via stabilizing components w/help from holders (i.e. your wood board, and the pedal 1/4" plugs for homding 1/4" jacks to solder), "helping hands", clips, etc. ). Thanks man!
Great Video Thanks! I had also wondered about people that were wiring the pots together when they are mounted to shielding on the pick guard and you can check with an ohm meter and see that they are already grounded together. You confirmed it. No need to double ground the pots. Biggest takeaway for me was to make a rig to hold the parts from moving.
Good video! Thanks for sharing!
Hi Dylan. Great video. Can you tell us what is the most common iron temperature for soldering guitar components? Thank you.
From the video it looks like his station is set to 700,which would be around 370 Celsuis.
Seems a little though?
What temperature do you suggest for soldering please?thank you!
That was so helpful , thank you !
Great video Dylan ! ! I've been subscribed, but haven't seen any videos from your page. Anyway, good to back under your tutelage. Simple, easy to apply and focused. Love it ! !
Hi, this was very helpful! I have a soldering station (45W) with adjustable temperature. Silly question, but what temperature do you recommend for soldering on to pots? Best regards
I usually set my station right at 700 degrees F. I use a small chisel tip for larger areas such as pot grounds and pointer for smaller areas such as wire connections. My soldering station has auto on/off this is fantastic because one of the other biggest failures in soldering is a burnt tip with rosins, also wire mesh cleaning is better than the wet sponge because it does not lower the temperature like a wet sponge. After each solder joint clean the tip, this removes and lingering rosin. Always make sure the tip is shiny silver (called tinned) and you will have good success soldering! By the way I’m an electrical Engineer and now retired entrepreneur, and as a hobby I play guitar, and fix/modify musicians instruments.
@@markpeters7772 Brilliant insight especially the wet sponge. Thanks
7:30 - "Staple" the component.
Great video! I've got a partscaster I need to start the electronics on.
Got an expensive iron, thinking it was a really nice one. I never could get it to stay hot. I was struggling to put in a new pickup and pots last week. Finally got a $17 iron at the hardware store and it's amazing.
Thank you Dylan!!!
Awesome Video! Thanks!
Excellent tutorial. I'm getting ready to work on a piezo and active Lace pickup combo in my thinline tele. If you or anyone knows of a schematic....wow would that be a help! But great video...thanks.
For years my iron wasn't hot enough. Got a decent iron and it's super quick now, instant.
Thank you for this, it's very helpful
Please make a soldering and grounding for Jazzmaster circuit. please please please @DylanTalksTone!
Best guitar soldering video I've ever seen! I just wish I didn't have to work inside the electronics cavity and deal with the wimpy Seymour Duncan wires. My god, have they gotten smaller?
thanks for explaining how to hold the tip of the iron when making a ground connection, havent seen anyone stressing this point. I was wondering why it didnt work for me and the solder kept clinging to the iron instead of the pot.
Hey man, great video! What temperature do you set your soldering iron to?
Do you have a video for joining all your grounds to the control pot?
Nice work man right off the bat, thanks!!!!!
Nice video, this will help a lot. The part about keeping your parts held in place was the key!
I've looked at a few of your videos and I like your approach . A knowledge and sense able view of each subject . Here's my question , Can I melt solder on an existing input jack to remove it ? But , I'm going to upgrade my guitar with a preloaded pickguard , what are your thoughts ?
Very nice video. Thank you.
Wow, this Video is helping me a lot.
I almost want to give up, but now i have hope again.
This is fantastic thanks very helpful! I have a les Paul junior dc kit I am building and it came with 2 500k pots. One is linear and one is log. I thought they would both be the same type. Could you explain the difference please?
Great training!!
And once you've made a bunch of messes/mistakes the task becomes more about what your goal is... Quality, tone, confidence etc
Excellent
second time watching this video - finally changing the bridge humbucker in my Mitchell guitar! Thanks Dylan, good shit!
Good lesson! I was IPC solder certified for aerospace and industrial applications, and the hardest part to learn was proper preparation and getting good flow. At least you're not having to examine your solder joints under 20x microscope. That sucked...
I noticed he didn’t tin the wire or components or tip of the iron. I thought you where meant to do that? I’m guessing if you where ipc qualified you would also make a mechanical connection first such as wrapping the wire around the eyelet? From what I saw of a nasa soldering video, you never ever rely on solder holding a joint without a mechanical joint. However it is a guitar, not a spaceship
@@MrSongwriter2 You don't *have* to tin anything, heating the components sufficiently will handle it. Tinning is meant to help transfer your iron's heat quickly by using the solder to spread the heat around almost like cooking oil. It's helpful if you're using a soldering iron that isn't hot enough or if you're working in a very cramped/difficult to access place where you want to get the joint done quickly.
As for wrapping wires in and around the lugs, it really isn't necessary. Pay attention to how that component and its wires will move once installed. If they're going to be completely stationary, stick the wire through the lug and solder in place. If it's possible for the wire to move (let's say the nut around your toggle switch or output jack loosens and the wires might twist around if the component spins), consider wrapping it around to protect it. But wrapping wires around every joint will just make it a pain the next time you or someone else works on the guitar.
What temp are you soldering at?
Thanks for sharing man
it would be helpful to see you solder the wire to the pot. It appears you presolder a blob onto the POT first, and then you connected the ground wires. would be nice to see that done.
thank you, great video
I preheat my soldering station to 740 this way I get a good quick heat transfer cause I use CTS pots.and use a small algater clip so I don't get posts switch hoter than need tabs to be.I like the piece of trim wood You use I was using foam but it do have little movement sometimes I'm going to go to Home Depot get Me some wood to hold my guitars electronics pots switches ect.good video.
Very informative vid. Lots of good info. I have a question. I’m rewiring a 60s Japanese guitar (1 pup, 1 volume, 1 tone). The pup has red, blue and black leads. What are they? Which is hot? Which is the ground? What’s the third lead? Thanks.
All good advice however . Would like to see a video on how to keep
work still when your simply replacing one pot from the back of the guitar and don’t have a tele setup. Also something on . how to re solder on someone’s old work . It’s all real simple when ya have new everything to go to ...
Excellent Man.Thanks. Phil UK
Awesome. Thank you
I've recently started soldering and have watched numerous videos that say 350 degrees for temp. I noticed you're twice that. Is that due to not using a chisel tip? I've been practicing using 60/40 rosin core, 350 seemed just right using a chisel tip. Please clarify. Awesome video with great tips.
Man... The POV idea of making this, is just genius!!! The least I can say. Sadly was quite out of focus but its still you can definitely see whats goin on.
Thanks for taking the time to teach this content! :) Could you please expand this to include connecting together (prolonging) guitar wires? That would be great. The guitar wire I'm dealing with has an insulated central part with more wire and so I'm not sure how to connect two pieces of such wire together. It would also be great to see some common errors when doing this and how to avoid them.Thank you and cheers!
Great Video, really helpful.
well, this was a definite subscribe. me researching soldering tips and im thinking "im not doing computers".
thanks mate
What is your fecommnded iron temperature setting. I've heard everything from 375 to 750.
is it worth wiring a telecaster 50's les paul style? or an sg or lp special for that matter.
What are the best size tips to use
I would love to see a video that goes over ways to keep wires neat within the control cavity. I run across situations where I have dual humbuckers with 4 wires, that don’t require coil splitting and need the red/white wires not connected. It looks like a rat’s nest if I don’t create some sort of neat solution using zip ties or heat shrink “snake”, I’ll run into grounding issues, especially when dealing with the bare wire contact. It’s the difference between novice and pro work.
Take the coil split wires and tape the together all the way up. That's the only tip I have besides trimming wires to exsct needed lengths.
Hey, what kind of wire do you recommend to weld output jack to pots? thanks
So do you touch the solder wire to the iron and spread the melted solder with the iron?
Great help, thanks
this is great thank you so much
10:00 « Sometimes you don’t have a cool tool like a piece of wood » 😂
Great tutorial!!
Nice job / good video / thanks
Hi Dylan, what type of solder we can use for guitar wiring works? Diameter? Percentage of components in it? Thanx
Question? Is a certain way the capacitor is wired ? Does it have a ground side and a lead side? Or it does not matter which way it goes in? I hope I make sense thanks.
Hi Dylan what can I consider, before buying a soldering Iron.
is the 40 watt soldering iron you linked safe to use to install new pickups?
I use it every day
Wish I had watched this before melting my fancy PIO cap
Ohhh dude... I'm so sorry, but I laughed a lot with your comment hahahahahaha
Oh no.....
Hi, Dylan...it is hard to get 40 watt and around 350 watt soldering iron in my country. Is it ok to use the 60 watt with an adjustable temperature? Thanks
Currently I’m working on a guitar built from steel and I am curious to know how would you go about grounding everything. I’m thinking of installing a three way switch with one volume pot for the neck and bridge and then one tone pot. I’ve done some soldering but not with a steel body guitar any advice at all would be great thanks
You don't recommend tinning the wire ends and terminals beforehand?
flux needed with soldering guitar pots?
Brilliant!
The God of Guitar Electronics
Could you add a link to the soldier as well. There are so many I’m worried I’m gonna get the wrong kind.
we put links in the description amzn.to/2Eyruqc
What type of tip should I buy. Mines toast. I have a Weller wesd51 soldering station. Been awhile since i picked it up. Forgot a lot of what i learned.
How hot does the solder iron have to be?
Do you need any EDC protection when working on guitar components?
always!!! I have a knife on me right now. I LOVE EDC stuff. we include it a lot
@@DylanTalksTone woops I meant ESD protection hahaha