Hey Dylan!!! The only thing i want to ask - is what kind of jams do you like? Merle Haggard type jazzy country music makes me giggle. Sometimes i like that on a day when i dont have anything else to worry about=)
I did some research and found 500k work best with humbuckers. My L. P. Studio came with changed pups. 496/500 and 250k pots and garbage wire. I replaced the pots with 550k CTS pots, .11 caps for more treble control to make more use of tone knobs and 22 gauge wire.
Probably should explain that the reason for an audio taper pot is because our hearing is not linear. We hear on a logarithmic scale. Therefor the audio taper actually sounds more linear to our ears.
Yeah you're correct saying that our hearing is not linear but a nonlinear pot does not necessarily match human hearing. That was never the sole intention for the design of a nonlinear pot. I wanted to point that out because I worked in the field of electronics for 45 years until I retired so I've read just about every spec sheet on the most common components out on the market that you could ever imagine. Here's a good example and it is a real world example: A while back I had a mic gain potentiometer that had a bad place on it on a mixing board that I own. It was a linear pot which meant whenever you adjusted it the audio gain or reduction depending which way you were turning it was gradual. I looked everywhere for this particular part and couldn't find nothing but a audio taper pot to put in its place. What I noticed was and what I absolutely expected to happen was adjusting that channel was a little tricky because the mic gain would suddenly go up or go down too fast when adjusting it which made it difficult to set. The saving grace for me was I was using this board as a sub mixer with a digital audio station so for all of the channels I was able to leave them set for a minimum gain due to the fact that the DAW had a decent amount of output gain on it. If I would have had to constantly use that control such as under a live situation or as my main adjustment it would have been annoying to say the least. Before I forget I wanted to mention that they also use nonlinear pots or audio taper pots in other applications that have absolutely nothing to do with audio it all just due to the fact of the way they react when they are adjusted.
@@flash001USA I'm sure there are all sorts of potentiometers for specialized purposes but in the context of this video, which is an audio application, the reason for an "audio" taper is to better match the way we hear and not sound like the volume is only increasing all at the end of the pot's range. This is specifically for volume controls and not necessarily what you would want for tone.
@@chrisyoung8062 You won't get an argument out of me with your reply or even your original reply to this video. An audio taper has a faster attack or "feel" and most guitar players prefer an audio taper over a linear taper so yeah I would have to agree with you that it would be perceived to deliver more of a natural volume curve the way our ears perceive sound but the original pot designs didn't start out with an audio pot in mind. My only point was that in early electronic designs and even today there was an actual need for fast reacting nonlinear pots even for non-audio applications but that the earlier stereo and musical equipment manufactures probably quickly realized that the nonlinear pots were the ticket and much better suited for audio applications and it's probably safe to say that someone pretty sharp sat down and refined nonlinear pots along the way to deliver a better "feel" just for audio applications like musical equipment and stereos.
@@flash001USA Agree I actual prefer close to linear as I like to have usable range from say 2 up some of the boutique "correct taper" actually I cant hear a signal below 5 so not that useful if I want clean dirty and lead in one sweep.
@@chrisyoung8062 Tone needs to be audio for a different reason. It is in 2-terminal mode and electrically the influence becomes more linear with a audio pot. Practically, the upper half of the sweep (e.g. 50-500K) affects resistive loading whereas the lower sweep (0-50K) varies the tone capacitor and the damping of the resonant circuit it forms with the pickup. However, controls can be linear when because settings above the 10% resistance of audio taper are mostly used. This is somewhat true of guitar volume except distortion and compression then swing the choice back towards an expanded sweep to compensate.
Thanks for sharing this. I like to build bass guitar kits and with every build I post I have people telling me to change the pots because their cheap, and I don’t because I have not been disappointed with the tones they produce.
small pot "gear ratio" analogy is not geometrically accurate if the knob is the same size. A knob turned 180 degrees will turn a pot 180 degrees regardless of it's size, dime or nickel sized. So glad i just discovered this channel....so much fun and educational! Thanks.
Hmm now this has me thinking. The size of the components inside have a shorter throw, like a smaller gear on a bicycle, so there is definitely a different feel, and I presume that's what he's referring to? Would that change how smooth a knob is or its apparent accuracy?
I have a Squier strat that I did all this stuff too. It sounds great, but really I did it just to do it. It was Covid time and I got to learn a lot. So, sometimes just do it because you can and soldering is fun.
I recently bought a '98 Epiphone Korina Flying V. The seller said it had upgraded pickups, new pots, totally rewired by his "guitar tech" and "professionally" set up. I tried it briefly at his place of business, so I didn't feel I could give it a proper workout. Got it home, plugged it in, and realized that I had NO volume until 5 on the dial, and from 5 - 10 had a marginal increase in volume. The tone didn't work at all. He had a phase/out of phase switch installed, which I think is what is causing the problems. I'm no tech guy by any stretch but I watch a shit ton of videos because I enjoy learning about guitars, amps, etc. Anyway....the guitar is now at a reputable guitar shop, hopefully being restored back to stock. The guy I use worked on my JCM900, so I trust him. Thankfully, the pickups are worth more than what I paid for the guitar, so I think I am still ahead, even after the repair bill comes in. I enjoy your videos a lot. Cheers
this channel, is fucking golden, ive watched this video months again when i didnt understand about electronics, and now im back and feel like ive gained so much more than what i understood before
Thank you, Dylan. I was getting carried away reading all those forums. You really snapped me out it. I think you just saved me a bunch of money. Subscribed.
About not changing anything if one likes their guitar, I have recently faced that issue myself. I have begun collecting First Act guitars, since they were cheap and becoming somewhat collectible. One in particular that I have is a black w/ white pickguard Strat copy three single coils, with a neck that is similar to a Gibson, in that the headstock slanted back. I paid $100 for it, brought it home and put it away. Then one day I was doing some fret polishing and re-stringing on my guitars. When I tuned this one up and started to play it, I was totally shocked by the playability, the beautiful clean sound, and how quiet it was when just sitting on the stand. I have a Strat, two Teles, and a 1975 Les Paul, and I swear I haven't picked any of them up since I started playing this First Act strat copy. So of course, I first thought that there must be something I could change on it, but after two months of playing it, I have decided that it is perfect, just like it is. Do you have a Patreon account? I would certainly like to send some cash your way to help you out.
Something like this has probably already been said... sound levels (decibels) follow an exponential curve, so we generally find audio taper pots so pleasing because that taper follows what our ears perceive to be a measured, gradual increase in volume through the full rotation. Using a linear taper pot for most volume control applications basically limits that full sweep of control you'd have with an audio taper pot to the first 1/3 of its rotation. The rest of the rotation doesn't seem to do anything because it doesn't allow the circuit to produce the exponentially louder signal--more dB's--that our ears perceive as volume.
I changed the taper of the tone pot on my Squier bass and it made a big difference. It drove me mad that it was really bright and then very quickly really dark with not much in between. Now it goes smoothly from bright to dark with changes in tone happening all the way along the turn of the pot.
Great explanation on pots. Couple decades ago I sought out how to test the range pots give you as you turn up or down on the knob. It was then that I concluded what you said in the just because it's small doesn't make it a bad pot as long as you get the performance results the pot has advertised. Still to this day I read over and over again just as you said, got ride of those small crappy pots and I'll ask, so what did they test at that made them crappy. Great video.
Cheap pots wear down the carbon strip and become scratchy, or the wiper falls off, etc. Smaller pots tend to be cheaper pots, but not in all cases. If you bought a 200$ guitar you can be sure it's got cheap ass pots, but if they work, they work - until they don't.
Hey Dylan, just wanted to say thanks for doing what you’re doing. I only discovered your channel recently and I’ve learned so much from your vids. Great stuff - much appreciated!
I think I saw one of your videos two years ago… and then you disappeared from my feed. Glad I could get back, now I wonì’t miss any other vid man, you’re one of the best here on YT
First up. You have taught me much. Thanks for that. Your thinking is in my builds What I do is take guitars that are beginners and use them as a kit. So I already have a finish in the guitar. What I do is basically blueprint the guitar. At the end it is virtually a hand built guitar. Most recently I paired a P90 at the bridge and jazzmaster at the neck. Thinking a position switch would never balance the 2 a blend pot was used as the pickup selector. I used a 500k audio taper blend pot. Bourns. First blend pot went bad on day one of testing. I ordered another with the same results. I have a CTS coming today. You probably have a relationship with Bourns....please give this constructive feedback to Bourns. All the best to you. Thanks for the lessons.
This is great information. I started with single coil guitars though when I got into humbuckers it was on Ibanez Artcore type import guitars. Being used to single coils I came in the habit of keeping the volume of the guitar around 3 and, initially, same with tone. Years later when I had work done I couldn't get over how "muddy" the same pickups sounded. To your point most folks use audio taper pots and that's what's more common at local stores... but for people who use the volume and want consistency the 50s wiring and the linear volume audio tone is more or less what I'm used to. At this point when I have an instrument where we're changing volume I like to make sure the volume is a linear - I can instantly tell when I have the volume half way up if I hear "the sludge" and I hate that more than life. I wish instruments companies were more transparent about a lot of this because I really had to learn this the hard way. Thanks again for your video.
Thanks for the informative videos. I especially like that you try to discourage unnecessary mods. Also, you explain things clearly and thoroughly. I always learn something new. Keep it up!
I gotta tip my hat to the Bourns pot. I worked for Bourns (my division made ICs and we were sold decades ago). They had/have high standards in quality. I trust 'em.
That said, I swapped out my pots only on a $200(Approximate guess, I'm British) epiphone for a set of Bourne's 500k and it did make quite difference to tone, not in it's overall base tone(same pick ups after all) but better response. My best leighman's explanation, was having the tone I already had in HD.
Hi Dylan, How are you? I really trust your opinion on all things guitar. I have just purchased a D'Angelico Bedford Premier guitar with the modified F hole and noticed that the pickups lack attack and clarity. So, should I put new pickups in or check the tolerance of the pots and just change them? Also, what mod or upgrades would you suggest? Thanks in advance, Jerel.
my guitar sounded so cool with my vintage 70s pot and guitar tech replaced it with a new one which i didn't ask for. i kinda miss what it used to sound like. it had such a unique tone now it just sounds like a normal guitar. when i turned it to 10 before, it would make crazy crunchy sound it was awesome
This is a great channel. You eliminate the BS. I bought an old 1996 Korean Epiphone G400. This was a surprisingly great guitar for the cost. Pickups were not great so I changed those. I also changed the pots and selector switch. The new larger pots were not as good as the original small ones which fitted the knobs better anyway. I put the old ones back in. There was crackling but it turned out that this was the caps. The small pots work perfectly fine. There is tons of BS about all this stuff, especially pickups. Yes, obviously some pickups are better than others but you can put the same pickups in one guitar and they are great but then put them in another guitar and they are not so great.
I agree on using audio taper for all, I do also. I just LMAO when I see people claim how the pots in this 59 LP sound so much better than this new pot. I hate seeing people being taken advantage of because of lack of understanding how something works. I've been arguing with someone over the mis-used terms "handwired" amp and "handmade" guitar. They all are, just different methods of fabricating certain parts. And I've found I really like the way the CTS Emerson Pro pots work. They don't sound any different, obviously, but work really well. You info is very accurate.
@@donrutter6765, I was not referring to the wiring, I was referring to the pot's effect. That comes from it putting resistance in series with the pickup and reducing the resistance to ground, which affects tone no matter where the tone control is connected. Also both wiring's were used in the 50's and thru the years on other guitars. And "better"? That's your opinion,I don't like the other wiring. In the 50's, 60's, 70's & on & on every year had good and not so good guitars. I personally think my PRS Sunburst 22 sounds better than ANY Les Paul I've ever heard, again my opinion. Also with the "50's" wiring the tone controls are less isolated from each other, especially on the center switch setting as they are connected to the output jack and not isolated from each other by the resistance of the volume pot. I agree the two methods sound different. Way to much voodoo & hype on old guitars. Being a musician I tend to get wrapped up in all that nonsense, but being logical and scientifically minded I tend to stay more objective to all of it.
People have probably started this already but the reason logrythimic pots are preferred is because our hearing is logrythimic. Therefore it tracks with our hearing and sounds better.
From Leo: Good sense advice "if you have a guitar, and like how it sounds, don't change anything" Truth of the week. I have guitars I bought 10 years ago that had small pots, and I'll change them when they have trouble.....they are still fine. At the same time if someone wants to change parts just because they want to, I'll provide that service. I only stock Audio Taper pots these days, and you are right, different brands have different Taper rates. Some of the cheap pots have almost no taper, even though they are marked as audio taper. I charge just as much to install a chinese pot the guy got from amazon as I do a quality CTS or Bourns, so the better part is the better value.
youre quite sure man! if you like how the guitar sounds, just keep it as is, changing things in your guitar can leave the sound pretty bad you should change only if something is broken or out of order! pots , caps wont change a lot if you change for a custom pickups they will speak very wild.
My pots are rubbish I think. I got a 300 bucks VGS Eruption about... Oh god... 15 years ago? It had a lot of cheap instrument issues, I fixed over the years. I brought it to a guitar geek, that set it up perfectly for me, which made it play soooo much better. Last week I put Seymour Duncans in it and the tone got so much better instantly. Now I want to rip out the electronics and make the rest good. The potis are scratching, not feeling nice, not working as they should be. Then I have a nice playing, nice looking, awesome sounding guitar :D It shared so much lifetime with me and it was a gift from my mother, who couldn't affort better back in the day, I just love the little one, but she needs some help and love to compete today. She deserves better than what she shipped with. :) Thanks for clearing this toppic up for me, greetings from germany.
"If you like the sound of your guitar, don't change it..." I.e., if it ain't broke, don't fix it.... I like that attitude. Common sense. Informative vid.
+1 on the push pull pot, ive had them break on me because i cheaped out, granted i was doing some weird experimental wirings but you can break them easy
Good explanation and good advice. Size in and of itself is only important when space is a consideration-as you said. If I change a pot its not working properly or - big or: if the feel is loose, wobbly or lacks torque feel.
I'm not sure what you said about the small pots being more difficult to operate with accuracy unless you put a big knob on them is correct. No matter the size of the pot, one revolution is one revolution. You could have a giant pot or a minuscule pot with the same knob on both and the knob rotation will be the same on both, hence the same level of accuracy (provided the construction is of equal quality). A big pot with a tiny knob will be difficult to be accurate with, just the same as a small pot with a tiny knob. That's not a drawback of mini pots but rather mini knobs. The drawback of mini pots is that the resistance is packed into a smaller track around the inside and so has a lower resolution making it more difficult to be super accurate with but the resolution is plenty high enough for guitar use.
Spot on Dylan. They all do they same thing. Unless the pots faulty, it's way out of spec, or as you said has a weird taper no need to change them. The only thing with cheaper pots is they might die quicker, so change it to something better when it dies. But it's amazing how much time you'll actually get out of cheap pots if you clean it with lube/cleaner occasionally when you hear them getting scratchy.
Found your video through a TH-cam recommendation. You did a good job of explaining this on layman's terms. I've played with guitar players who swore by linear tapered pots and wouldn't use anything else but a linear tapered pot on their guitars and I've worked with people with the exact polar opposite opinion. It really comes down to the persons personal preference and want they're looking for as far as the "feel" goes especially if you have somebody that likes to do swells using their volume pot.
first time I change the pots of my guitar for a forum I ended up with a volume that shut ups at 5 haha a great experience! hope I had your videos at that time
I used 500 pots and orange drop .47 cap on 59 Seymour Duncan Les Paul re pro pick up alone in a single pu 57 Epi Junior re pro with one bridge pu( p 100 crap). And its great, fantastic tonal range, tganks!!
5:00 I have a squier strat from the 90's that have those tiny pots. They work perfectly fine after 26 years I only cleaned them with electronic spray cleaner
I've had pots of all brands vary a lot in capacitance. I almost never use treble bleed but some need it. My Les Paul has 300k linear volumes and it's so easy to control on stage. My 335 has 500k audio. Different but nice too. The one thing more expensive pots often beat the cheap ones is capacitance.
Thanks for this vid, Dylan. I've learned so much from you. I recently bought a PRS SE and changed the pots because one of the Alpha pots had a frustrating flat spot. CTS and Switchcraft are my go-tos, but now I want to try Bourns.
i considering changing pots on my squier and on my fender. I guess i have to buy 3 tone/volume 500K pots for the Fender strat and 2 for the Squier Telecaster. I have a Dimarzio chopper for bridge pickup in the Squier tele, and the bridge on my strat is a Seymore Duncan Hot rails!
I had an ancient Fender Champ Amp that had a volume that went to 11. I gave it to my girlfriends son to finish graduating when he was talking about dropping out a few weeks before he granulated. He has been keeping me apprised of his adventures in making it work correctly. Most of the capacitors were shot or leaking or even burst. He has learned a lot from that amp and I didn't have to mess with it!
Dylan is a wealth of knowledge and information and this man makes sense to me so much other bullshit on the internet and if I want answers I listen to Dylan he's a Legend !
Just ordered new pots for my fender. It got wrecked in hurricane Harvey. Stored at a buddy’s house over the garage and well, you know how hurricanes work.
It did not sit in water but s roof leaked occurred directly above it That hurricane tone sounds like a combination of Arrrrgh And doohhh ( Homer Simpson)
Great video man, Thanks for all the great vids! I have a pot/pickup question... I have a small guitar repair shop in Mass. and I have a customer with a few of those Dean ML guitars (Big Pantera fan) And I put a new set of Bill Lawrence pups in his #1. So he gives me his #2 and says he thinks somethings wrong with the bridge pup (Seymour Duncan) So I take my multimeter and start checking just by plugging a cable in the output jack and putting clips on the +and - of the cable. His neck pickup reads 7.25k but his bridge pup only reads 4.3? Almost like it's only using 1 coil. So I told him that and he shows up at my shop with another ML! But this was a bolt on neck MLX, (I guess the cheaper version) So I checked those pups the same way and 8.5 on the neck and 9.2 on the bridge, ok excellent, swap pups with his #2, Easy peasy... But when I was getting ready to do the job I was rechecking the resistance on the dead pup and it was up to 6.5 from 4.3? W.T.H.? Lol. At this point I think I'm loosing my mind, Lol so I wen't to double check to make sure the volume pots were up all the way and the bridge pot was only on around 7/8. So I turned it back up to 10 and the resistance wen't back down to 4?? That was yesterday... So today instead of just replacing the pickup I'm going to throw a new mini pot (Dean does use those mini pots, thank god because those cavity's are small!!) And change everything... I know when I pull the pup I can check it the right way (out of the guitar) but what do you think is causing that? Bad pup or pot or both? I only ask cause you said you love talking about this shit! Lol. But I'm puzzled??? thx. again bro............... Mike (Ipswich River Guitars).
I like a good pot and not just the kind yer talking about! Just bought my first guitar on sale, a white Fender Strat vintera 60's modified and a monoprice 15w tube amp, it's a bunch of fun. Don't plan on modifying it any time soon, lol after all it already is? Your videos have been super helpful about understanding guitars and pickups. I am carefully learning how to setup my guitar the way I like it and love watching your videos on my lunch break.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. The tone pot on my low end priced guitar purchased for a nephew no longer functions. I'm trying to build up the courage to replace it. You probably have vids on that subject.
Hi Dylan! I got a SD Dimebucker bridge and a SD Invader neck for my Ibanez Gio budget guitar. I’ll be installing a Mallory .022 uF. Which log pots would you recommend? Thanks men 🙂
Great post I have a Gibson les Paul the volume pot was scratchy I try contact cleaner but now it’s worse I go to 10 no volume it’s like a bad connection but that’s fine ..any ideas ? .your the best am glad I come across your channel 👍👍👍
I never thought about how the diameter of the pot affects the dialing precision. I never had problems with small pots, and always thought about using bigger knobs for more accuracy (if needed), but your point is 100% right and I never thought about it. Thanks!
@@frankscassi4960 this is not true.... both circles have the same infinite number of points.... those infinite points relate perfectly to the paired infinite series of points on the knobs rotation.
@@IamtheWV17 of course, it's just easier to dial the exact point you want. Have you ever drawn an angle with a protractor? 1 degree with a small diameter protractor is not that easy to draw, much easier with a larger one. It's simple geometry: the circular arc of a 1 degree angle of a circle with a 1 inch radius (0.0174 in) is smaller than the circular arc of a 1 degree angle of a circle with a 2 inch radius (0.0349 in)
I thought the same until this last time. Swapping CTS pots in to replace fullsize, crackly Alpha pots made a HUGE difference. And it wasn't related to resistance specs. The Alphas were all 505k-536k while the CTS were 477k-505k. Its louder overall, much clearer, and just generally sounds better. No idea why. I used polypropylene caps and 50s wiring and I'm pretty sure it was already 50s wiring.
Thanks for your no nonsense approach and content based on fact , not opinion or “tradition”. Could you please do a vid on the pros and cons of passive vs active pickups, and the interchangeability between them - going from active to passive and vice versa. Also why a higher percentage of basses vs guitar are active. Cheers
Superb video Dylan! So informative. And I do have a question: I use a fairly high gain tone via Pod Go, then ride my volume pot to clean it up. I am not a tone tweaker, crafting lots of different patches for my Pod Go. Much more of a caveman who just wants to plug in and play. Is there a type, brand or style of pot that provides the greatest flexibility & clarity for this? Thanks again for a great video.
Love the video, extremely insightful. I had no idea there was such thing as "no load pots". I think that could be useful for people who rarely use the tone pot at all, except on occasion for something very particular. I have to admit, I also thought the little pots were just cheap. 😝
Hey Dylan, my 1988 American Tele has a stock TBX tone control, which I understand stands for Treble and Bass Cut. Would you please explain how these work and what the pros/cons are? Thanks!
I just bought a walnut telecaster body so now I need a neck and all the other things , so this is the best lesson. I have no idea what walnut will do, but know that for what I want to do to this guitar it's beautiful. I'm goig to French polish it after some inlay work maybe, it's a work in the making that needs a neck strat or Tele. I'm not sure how heavy it is it arrives Fri 16 the body is unfinished so I was thinking about sanding a lot if it is heavy. I would really like your opinion on this, I didn't see any body cutouts on it, there were like 4 of these all for 35+- dollars so I grabbed one fore the experimental value, inlays a body that's not a factory fender but something to experiment with in some color tinting acquired as an oil painter as an artist, that and glazing etc working with depth layering over glazed images etc. I'm wondering about pickups wiring pots all that good stuff to compliment the walnut and what will be a stock fender neck with a dark fretboard, all maybes I do know this from watching you in other videos it's a give and take to get the best tone in a build. Good night
Hi Dylan. Great video. Loved your explanation. I recently bought a guitar from Hagstrom. It came with tiny CF pots. The guitar sounds phenomenal, but people have been telling me to change these pots and get larger, more well-known ones just because. They seem to work very well, and after your video, I think I'll keep them.
Some pots require more force to turn others are very loose, I like it a bit tighter, is there a way to tighten up the pots that spin easier or this baked into the pot?
*Edit* : Apologies, Dylan has done a few different videos in this, one on shielding and one on shielding vs tone loss Hi Dylan, have you noticed any difference between foil shielding versus paint for strats? I've noticed some strats come with aluminium/copper foil lining the entire inside of the body, whereas some come with nothing or some come with that gooey gross black paint. Been wondering if theres any noticeable difference between copper/aluminium/paint/none, and what's your choice in your custom guitars?
What a great video on Pot!! Very instructive and I learned a lot. I always thought that if you are happy with the pot you got, then you will use it a lot. Never get it too hot, or it could smoke a lot. I heard that you can get pot online. Could you recommend a good dealer? I'm looking for something with a nice audio-visual type taper. Thanks, love your channel!!
I just put new CTS pots into an 1995 Strat Squier series. Log taper 500Ω for volume and linear taper 500Ω for tone to match the original values. The capacitor is a Sprague orange drop. 047f. The problem is that now the taper on all the pots is way off. The volume pot does does almost nothing from 1-5 and suddenly kicks in from 6-10. The tone pots
I agree completely Dylan, if you like what you have, don't change anything, some of the best advice I've heard in a long time. I use dimarzio pots, love the taper but, I do believe bourn's or cts makes them for dimarzio.
good video for one thing i will comment on is the "pot with the hole" when it goes past its 10 and you said its out of circuit and has no resistance, its actually the opposite it has infinite resistance, well the resistance of the air gap measured between the to points the end of the wiper arm and the wiper material.... tolerances yes on the cheaper maybe 10% up market maybe 5% military spec pots 1% as an example..... older pots can when you turn them grate as the carbon has actually worn of the wiper its self, so you get hills and troughs across the wiper arm its self and have of varying resistance, but some wd40 (water discernment formula 40 can fix this up) but if you want to be serious a little drop of cremlin oil will do a better job as its actually a creeping oil and will prolong the life a little longer.... remember too that pots they had from the 40s 50s and 60s were constructed with differing manufacturing particles in side as well. this affect the noise of the pot its self..when you put a noise meter across a pot it surprising how noisy they are..... just for your interest.
Dylan, I am just beginning to build my own stuff. You may consider me a student of yours in a way! Love your content & style!! If I designed my own electronics setup, would you review it for me?
PS one more thing? I like second hand guitars history, price etc), they sounded "muddy" though, I bought some contact cleaner from the local hardware store and put that into the old pots, it kept the same 'profile of tone' and also removed the mud. Did the same in the amps.pots and soundboard pots too.
Hi there ! I've just subscribed - after watching a few of your videos on pots/capacitors etc. Absolutely great stuff as you are a great communicator - you make all this stuff so easy to understand. I have a 1957 Kay K-142 solid-body electric guitar (v cool metallic copper colour), with two Kay pancake/Zippo lighters. I don't know if there if the massive capacitors and/or resistors have gone bad or what - each pickup's concentric vol&tone pots affect the volume of the other pickup's volume - like WAY to much for my liking. One pickup's volume isn't as loud as it will go, unless I turn the other pickup's volume pot down a bit. It's very annoying. I'd really like to replace as little as possible in this vintage guitar - and hope to at least keep the concentric vol/tone pots. Not sure where to start on fixing this problem ! From watching your videos, I'm concerned that if I take it to a guitar shop repair guy, I'm gonna get a lotta recommendations for expensive capacitors etc - which I know from your videos is not critical (the type of capacitor anyway, but the value used may or may not suit what I want the guitar to do - no good or bad as such !). From online searches on modern versus vintage wiring, I learned some vintage wiring choices DID have volume pots of each pickup affecting the other pickup. Not sure if this is exactly what I've got happening, or if my guitar has got worse than how it should be ?!!! Any advice would be gratefully received ! One last question though - on stated tolerance levels of pots. I know there are mostly two pot values - 250ohm and 500ohm pots - and that either can be good for any pickup type - as it's really more about what sound the player is after, yeah ? I learned that from your videos. BUT, if a vol pot is out of the stated tolerance (eg. you mentioned one 500K pot was measured at 410K), why would that be a problem ? 410K might be quite good, if you tried both 250K and 500K pots and you couldn't decide which one you preferred ! ??? 410K is only a problem is you specifically wanted 500K, right ? 410K might just sound better to you ? Or have I misunderstood ? Loving your videos (so far, on the ones I've watched) - they sound very honest, and very informative. Many thanks !!
Good video. I see too many people upgrading cheap guitars with super awesome expensive pots and claiming it transformed their guitar tone beyond their wildest dreams. It gets kind of frustrating when you know that so long as the pots are within spec and soldered properly the difference in tone should be pretty much identical. Only upgrades I have done with my guitars is add push pulls for coil splits which makes the guitar more versatile. My PRS SE's came with large pots except for the CU24 push pull coil tap tone pot which is a mini pot with annoying play in the shaft. Does anyone make good metric shaft push pulls? Don't think it has to be a mini pot though I should probably check the depth of the cavity just in case.
I have a problem with my strat (or myself 😅) and I’m wondering if you can do a long-distance-diagnosis: High-E string and B-String always sound significantly more silent (to my ears and others) than the others although action is quite low and they’re height above the single coils is even closer than it should be according to setup guides I read and watched… I‘ve done loads of adjusting and setup but nothing seems to really solve it. Also I did a „screwdriver test“ on the magnets and they seem to be fine. My question: could it be due to wiring or potis not working properly or are my pickups just fucked (although it’s in any switch position) or is it a thing of setting it up properly (like nut-depth, bridge and so forth)? I’d like to know before I start soldering and swapping things out 😅 Cheers, love your channel ❤️
New subscriber just wanted to say I've been binge watching your content and love the channel love learning about all this stuff very informative and very intelligent can't believe you only have 20k subs
Thanks for the info and great video!! Totally confirmed my issue with my PRS semi-hollowbody. The volume pots do nothing...not much... not much...cut out! And it sucks as I'm trying to get better about utilizing my guitar controls especially with my overdrive and fuzz pedals. Do you have a good recommendation for electronics I should switch too? Running 2 custom McCarty humbuckers with the typical 2 tone, 2 volume and 3-way toggle switch. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Love the pickups and the tone knows sweep pleasantly enough but the volume pots.....ugh!!
You could be perfectly happy with your tone but still missing out because that’s all you know. That’s why sometimes it is good to try new things to see what you may be missing. I recently upgraded to a Gibson SG that has much better electronics than my older Epiphone that I used to be pretty happy with. I was missing out big time. Now I want to replace all of the electronics in my Epi. With that said, I understand what you are trying to say. Thanks for the great videos.
This is A Great pot for a very affordable Price amzn.to/2qq68ZQ , Here is a good pushpull amzn.to/2KFvVnK , and here is a good no load amzn.to/2KJQ9wt
Are they damped? I bought some for my strat a few years ago and they work ok electrically, but move a little too freely.
Hey Dylan!!! The only thing i want to ask - is what kind of jams do you like? Merle Haggard type jazzy country music makes me giggle. Sometimes i like that on a day when i dont have anything else to worry about=)
5 reasons to smoke pot
That great pot for an affordable price has majority of 1 star reviews on amazon?
I did some research and found 500k work best with humbuckers. My L. P. Studio came with changed pups. 496/500 and 250k pots and garbage wire. I replaced the pots with 550k CTS pots, .11 caps for more treble control to make more use of tone knobs and 22 gauge wire.
My Mom hit me once with a pot. she said this should tone you down.
🌞
😂😂
Underrated comment
😂
Lmao 👍
This was the best education I’ve had in years! Watch the capacitor comparison video.
Probably should explain that the reason for an audio taper pot is because our hearing is not linear. We hear on a logarithmic scale. Therefor the audio taper actually sounds more linear to our ears.
Yeah you're correct saying that our hearing is not linear but a nonlinear pot does not necessarily match human hearing. That was never the sole intention for the design of a nonlinear pot. I wanted to point that out because I worked in the field of electronics for 45 years until I retired so I've read just about every spec sheet on the most common components out on the market that you could ever imagine. Here's a good example and it is a real world example: A while back I had a mic gain potentiometer that had a bad place on it on a mixing board that I own. It was a linear pot which meant whenever you adjusted it the audio gain or reduction depending which way you were turning it was gradual. I looked everywhere for this particular part and couldn't find nothing but a audio taper pot to put in its place. What I noticed was and what I absolutely expected to happen was adjusting that channel was a little tricky because the mic gain would suddenly go up or go down too fast when adjusting it which made it difficult to set. The saving grace for me was I was using this board as a sub mixer with a digital audio station so for all of the channels I was able to leave them set for a minimum gain due to the fact that the DAW had a decent amount of output gain on it. If I would have had to constantly use that control such as under a live situation or as my main adjustment it would have been annoying to say the least. Before I forget I wanted to mention that they also use nonlinear pots or audio taper pots in other applications that have absolutely nothing to do with audio it all just due to the fact of the way they react when they are adjusted.
@@flash001USA I'm sure there are all sorts of potentiometers for specialized purposes but in the context of this video, which is an audio application, the reason for an "audio" taper is to better match the way we hear and not sound like the volume is only increasing all at the end of the pot's range. This is specifically for volume controls and not necessarily what you would want for tone.
@@chrisyoung8062 You won't get an argument out of me with your reply or even your original reply to this video. An audio taper has a faster attack or "feel" and most guitar players prefer an audio taper over a linear taper so yeah I would have to agree with you that it would be perceived to deliver more of a natural volume curve the way our ears perceive sound but the original pot designs didn't start out with an audio pot in mind. My only point was that in early electronic designs and even today there was an actual need for fast reacting nonlinear pots even for non-audio applications but that the earlier stereo and musical equipment manufactures probably quickly realized that the nonlinear pots were the ticket and much better suited for audio applications and it's probably safe to say that someone pretty sharp sat down and refined nonlinear pots along the way to deliver a better "feel" just for audio applications like musical equipment and stereos.
@@flash001USA Agree I actual prefer close to linear as I like to have usable range from say 2 up some of the boutique "correct taper" actually I cant hear a signal below 5 so not that useful if I want clean dirty and lead in one sweep.
@@chrisyoung8062 Tone needs to be audio for a different reason. It is in 2-terminal mode and electrically the influence becomes more linear with a audio pot. Practically, the upper half of the sweep (e.g. 50-500K) affects resistive loading whereas the lower sweep (0-50K) varies the tone capacitor and the damping of the resonant circuit it forms with the pickup.
However, controls can be linear when because settings above the 10% resistance of audio taper are mostly used. This is somewhat true of guitar volume except distortion and compression then swing the choice back towards an expanded sweep to compensate.
But where do I get a volume pot that goes up to eleven?
Do you have a Sharpie? 😁
wouldn’t it make more sense to just upgrade the pot itself? like, make 10 louder?
@@USSLIBERTYREMEMBERER whooosh
Edit: im the idiot who missed the joke
Id talk to the louder is more good folks at jhs
Will Cresson thats almost verbatim how the interviewer responds in spinal tap but alright
So much common sense. I’m glad I stayed up all night watching guitar repair videos. This ones a keeper! Will subscribe!
Thanks for sharing this. I like to build bass guitar kits and with every build I post I have people telling me to change the pots because their cheap, and I don’t because I have not been disappointed with the tones they produce.
small pot "gear ratio" analogy is not geometrically accurate if the knob is the same size. A knob turned 180 degrees will turn a pot 180 degrees regardless of it's size, dime or nickel sized. So glad i just discovered this channel....so much fun and educational! Thanks.
Hmm now this has me thinking. The size of the components inside have a shorter throw, like a smaller gear on a bicycle, so there is definitely a different feel, and I presume that's what he's referring to? Would that change how smooth a knob is or its apparent accuracy?
@@BRZDR yeah, I believe so.
I have a Squier strat that I did all this stuff too. It sounds great, but really I did it just to do it. It was Covid time and I got to learn a lot. So, sometimes just do it because you can and soldering is fun.
I also began soldering during the pandemic, so much fun, now I am obsessed. I am also gonna study electrical from the fall as a result of this. 😀
Same here, but I got a tele. The guitar was cheaper than a kit.
@@danielhanssen8664 oh nice!
@@paulakapablo1749 wow, where u get it?
pots make zero difference in tone. It is all the setup and fingers
I recently bought a '98 Epiphone Korina Flying V. The seller said it had upgraded pickups, new pots, totally rewired by his "guitar tech" and "professionally" set up. I tried it briefly at his place of business, so I didn't feel I could give it a proper workout. Got it home, plugged it in, and realized that I had NO volume until 5 on the dial, and from 5 - 10 had a marginal increase in volume. The tone didn't work at all. He had a phase/out of phase switch installed, which I think is what is causing the problems. I'm no tech guy by any stretch but I watch a shit ton of videos because I enjoy learning about guitars, amps, etc. Anyway....the guitar is now at a reputable guitar shop, hopefully being restored back to stock. The guy I use worked on my JCM900, so I trust him. Thankfully, the pickups are worth more than what I paid for the guitar, so I think I am still ahead, even after the repair bill comes in. I enjoy your videos a lot. Cheers
this channel, is fucking golden, ive watched this video months again when i didnt understand about electronics, and now im back and feel like ive gained so much more than what i understood before
Thank you, Dylan. I was getting carried away reading all those forums. You really snapped me out it. I think you just saved me a bunch of money. Subscribed.
About not changing anything if one likes their guitar, I have recently faced that issue myself. I have begun collecting First Act guitars, since they were cheap and becoming somewhat collectible. One in particular that I have is a black w/ white pickguard Strat copy three single coils, with a neck that is similar to a Gibson, in that the headstock slanted back. I paid $100 for it, brought it home and put it away. Then one day I was doing some fret polishing and re-stringing on my guitars. When I tuned this one up and started to play it, I was totally shocked by the playability, the beautiful clean sound, and how quiet it was when just sitting on the stand. I have a Strat, two Teles, and a 1975 Les Paul, and I swear I haven't picked any of them up since I started playing this First Act strat copy. So of course, I first thought that there must be something I could change on it, but after two months of playing it, I have decided that it is perfect, just like it is.
Do you have a Patreon account? I would certainly like to send some cash your way to help you out.
Something like this has probably already been said... sound levels (decibels) follow an exponential curve, so we generally find audio taper pots so pleasing because that taper follows what our ears perceive to be a measured, gradual increase in volume through the full rotation. Using a linear taper pot for most volume control applications basically limits that full sweep of control you'd have with an audio taper pot to the first 1/3 of its rotation. The rest of the rotation doesn't seem to do anything because it doesn't allow the circuit to produce the exponentially louder signal--more dB's--that our ears perceive as volume.
I changed the taper of the tone pot on my Squier bass and it made a big difference. It drove me mad that it was really bright and then very quickly really dark with not much in between. Now it goes smoothly from bright to dark with changes in tone happening all the way along the turn of the pot.
What type of pot did you switch to?
how do you change taper? I have same issue.
you went to the taper version? the audio pot?
Which pot did you change it to? I have this same problem
@@mauricerrr I did two audio (linear) pots. I think the tone settings work fine.
Great explanation on pots. Couple decades ago I sought out how to test the range pots give you as you turn up or down on the knob. It was then that I concluded what you said in the just because it's small doesn't make it a bad pot as long as you get the performance results the pot has advertised. Still to this day I read over and over again just as you said, got ride of those small crappy pots and I'll ask, so what did they test at that made them crappy. Great video.
Cheap pots wear down the carbon strip and become scratchy, or the wiper falls off, etc. Smaller pots tend to be cheaper pots, but not in all cases. If you bought a 200$ guitar you can be sure it's got cheap ass pots, but if they work, they work - until they don't.
Hey Dylan, just wanted to say thanks for doing what you’re doing. I only discovered your channel recently and I’ve learned so much from your vids. Great stuff - much appreciated!
I think I saw one of your videos two years ago… and then you disappeared from my feed. Glad I could get back, now I wonì’t miss any other vid man, you’re one of the best here on YT
First up. You have taught me much. Thanks for that. Your thinking is in my builds What I do is take guitars that are beginners and use them as a kit. So I already have a finish in the guitar. What I do is basically blueprint the guitar. At the end it is virtually a hand built guitar. Most recently I paired a P90 at the bridge and jazzmaster at the neck. Thinking a position switch would never balance the 2 a blend pot was used as the pickup selector. I used a 500k audio taper blend pot. Bourns. First blend pot went bad on day one of testing. I ordered another with the same results. I have a CTS coming today. You probably have a relationship with Bourns....please give this constructive feedback to Bourns. All the best to you. Thanks for the lessons.
This is great information. I started with single coil guitars though when I got into humbuckers it was on Ibanez Artcore type import guitars. Being used to single coils I came in the habit of keeping the volume of the guitar around 3 and, initially, same with tone. Years later when I had work done I couldn't get over how "muddy" the same pickups sounded. To your point most folks use audio taper pots and that's what's more common at local stores... but for people who use the volume and want consistency the 50s wiring and the linear volume audio tone is more or less what I'm used to. At this point when I have an instrument where we're changing volume I like to make sure the volume is a linear - I can instantly tell when I have the volume half way up if I hear "the sludge" and I hate that more than life. I wish instruments companies were more transparent about a lot of this because I really had to learn this the hard way. Thanks again for your video.
Thanks for the informative videos. I especially like that you try to discourage unnecessary mods. Also, you explain things clearly and thoroughly. I always learn something new. Keep it up!
I gotta tip my hat to the Bourns pot. I worked for Bourns (my division made ICs and we were sold decades ago). They had/have high standards in quality. I trust 'em.
THE BETTER INFORMED WE ARE ,THE BETTER INFORMED WE ARE ,FORWARNED ,FORARMED .FIGHT THE FALSE FORCE. THANK YOU DYLAN.HEART OF GOLD TO YOU , STAY PURE.
Coincidentally, I've been looking for information about guitar pots this whole week. Good timing, Dylan!
That said, I swapped out my pots only on a $200(Approximate guess, I'm British) epiphone for a set of Bourne's 500k and it did make quite difference to tone, not in it's overall base tone(same pick ups after all) but better response. My best leighman's explanation, was having the tone I already had in HD.
Alpha pots are good too
50s wiring mod is the first mod most all epi phones need.
It's easy, try it.
Of course if you don't like it, will take ten minutes to undo.
Hi Dylan, How are you? I really trust your opinion on all things guitar. I have just purchased a D'Angelico Bedford Premier guitar with the modified F hole and noticed that the pickups lack attack and clarity. So, should I put new pickups in or check the tolerance of the pots and just change them? Also, what mod or upgrades would you suggest? Thanks in advance, Jerel.
my guitar sounded so cool with my vintage 70s pot and guitar tech replaced it with a new one which i didn't ask for. i kinda miss what it used to sound like. it had such a unique tone now it just sounds like a normal guitar. when i turned it to 10 before, it would make crazy crunchy sound it was awesome
This is a great channel. You eliminate the BS. I bought an old 1996 Korean Epiphone G400. This was a surprisingly great guitar for the cost. Pickups were not great so I changed those. I also changed the pots and selector switch. The new larger pots were not as good as the original small ones which fitted the knobs better anyway. I put the old ones back in. There was crackling but it turned out that this was the caps. The small pots work perfectly fine.
There is tons of BS about all this stuff, especially pickups. Yes, obviously some pickups are better than others but you can put the same pickups in one guitar and they are great but then put them in another guitar and they are not so great.
I agree on using audio taper for all, I do also. I just LMAO when I see people claim how the pots in this 59 LP sound so much better than this new pot. I hate seeing people being taken advantage of because of lack of understanding how something works. I've been arguing with someone over the mis-used terms "handwired" amp and "handmade" guitar. They all are, just different methods of fabricating certain parts. And I've found I really like the way the CTS Emerson Pro pots work. They don't sound any different, obviously, but work really well. You info is very accurate.
The 59' wiring schematic is different than reissue 59's thats why they sound better. There is no tone loss when you back the volume off.
@@donrutter6765, I was not referring to the wiring, I was referring to the pot's effect. That comes from it putting resistance in series with the pickup and reducing the resistance to ground, which affects tone no matter where the tone control is connected. Also both wiring's were used in the 50's and thru the years on other guitars. And "better"? That's your opinion,I don't like the other wiring. In the 50's, 60's, 70's & on & on every year had good and not so good guitars. I personally think my PRS Sunburst 22 sounds better than ANY Les Paul I've ever heard, again my opinion. Also with the "50's" wiring the tone controls are less isolated from each other, especially on the center switch setting as they are connected to the output jack and not isolated from each other by the resistance of the volume pot. I agree the two methods sound different. Way to much voodoo & hype on old guitars. Being a musician I tend to get wrapped up in all that nonsense, but being logical and scientifically minded I tend to stay more objective to all of it.
i still believe that materials and electrical connectivity is also having a card in sound.
People have probably started this already but the reason logrythimic pots are preferred is because our hearing is logrythimic. Therefore it tracks with our hearing and sounds better.
I would still go hand-wired for any amplifier. No surface mount components. All-in-all easier serviceability
From Leo: Good sense advice "if you have a guitar, and like how it sounds, don't change anything" Truth of the week. I have guitars I bought 10 years ago that had small pots, and I'll change them when they have trouble.....they are still fine. At the same time if someone wants to change parts just because they want to, I'll provide that service. I only stock Audio Taper pots these days, and you are right, different brands have different Taper rates. Some of the cheap pots have almost no taper, even though they are marked as audio taper. I charge just as much to install a chinese pot the guy got from amazon as I do a quality CTS or Bourns, so the better part is the better value.
TRUE
youre quite sure man! if you like how the guitar sounds, just keep it as is, changing things in your guitar can leave the sound pretty bad you should change only if something is broken or out of order! pots , caps wont change a lot if you change for a custom pickups they will speak very wild.
Changing the guitar even if there’s no improvements is fun because nerding out is a pleasure and therapeutic.
Great vid for a novice like me. I just assumed bigger pots = better tones. Thank for saving me needless work.
🤟😎🎸
My pots are rubbish I think.
I got a 300 bucks VGS Eruption about... Oh god... 15 years ago?
It had a lot of cheap instrument issues, I fixed over the years. I brought it to a guitar geek, that set it up perfectly for me, which made it play soooo much better.
Last week I put Seymour Duncans in it and the tone got so much better instantly.
Now I want to rip out the electronics and make the rest good. The potis are scratching, not feeling nice, not working as they should be.
Then I have a nice playing, nice looking, awesome sounding guitar :D
It shared so much lifetime with me and it was a gift from my mother, who couldn't affort better back in the day, I just love the little one, but she needs some help and love to compete today. She deserves better than what she shipped with. :)
Thanks for clearing this toppic up for me, greetings from germany.
I feel smarter after watching your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and offering your wisdom, Dylan.
"If you like the sound of your guitar, don't change it..." I.e., if it ain't broke, don't fix it.... I like that attitude. Common sense. Informative vid.
Thanks Dylan for all this information, I now ready to get stuck into tackle an upgrade on my guitar.
+1 on the push pull pot, ive had them break on me because i cheaped out, granted i was doing some weird experimental wirings but you can break them easy
Good explanation and good advice. Size in and of itself is only important when space is a consideration-as you said.
If I change a pot its not working properly or - big or: if the feel is loose, wobbly or lacks torque feel.
I'm not sure what you said about the small pots being more difficult to operate with accuracy unless you put a big knob on them is correct. No matter the size of the pot, one revolution is one revolution. You could have a giant pot or a minuscule pot with the same knob on both and the knob rotation will be the same on both, hence the same level of accuracy (provided the construction is of equal quality). A big pot with a tiny knob will be difficult to be accurate with, just the same as a small pot with a tiny knob. That's not a drawback of mini pots but rather mini knobs. The drawback of mini pots is that the resistance is packed into a smaller track around the inside and so has a lower resolution making it more difficult to be super accurate with but the resolution is plenty high enough for guitar use.
Spot on Dylan. They all do they same thing. Unless the pots faulty, it's way out of spec, or as you said has a weird taper no need to change them. The only thing with cheaper pots is they might die quicker, so change it to something better when it dies. But it's amazing how much time you'll actually get out of cheap pots if you clean it with lube/cleaner occasionally when you hear them getting scratchy.
Good video. Learned some things. You should get that facia painted before bad weather gets here.
Found your video through a TH-cam recommendation. You did a good job of explaining this on layman's terms. I've played with guitar players who swore by linear tapered pots and wouldn't use anything else but a linear tapered pot on their guitars and I've worked with people with the exact polar opposite opinion. It really comes down to the persons personal preference and want they're looking for as far as the "feel" goes especially if you have somebody that likes to do swells using their volume pot.
You are so awesome and informative thank you so much!!
first time I change the pots of my guitar for a forum I ended up with a volume that shut ups at 5 haha a great experience! hope I had your videos at that time
I’ve been using Bourne for 10 yrs now.I like em too,very smooth & they don’t cut out on you
I used 500 pots and orange drop .47 cap on 59 Seymour Duncan Les Paul re pro pick up alone in a single pu 57 Epi Junior re pro with one bridge pu( p 100 crap). And its great, fantastic tonal range, tganks!!
Thanks for a logical, scientific explanation. Well done, Dylan.
5:00 I have a squier strat from the 90's that have those tiny pots. They work perfectly fine after 26 years I only cleaned them with electronic spray cleaner
Funny thing I use Bourns pots in voltage and speed controls on older generator controls for work. They're reliable and good quality for sure.
Awesome video, Dylan! I didn't know about "no-load" pots, that sounds like a really useful thing to have on a tone pot!
Thank you
I've had pots of all brands vary a lot in capacitance. I almost never use treble bleed but some need it. My Les Paul has 300k linear volumes and it's so easy to control on stage. My 335 has 500k audio. Different but nice too. The one thing more expensive pots often beat the cheap ones is capacitance.
Thanks for this vid, Dylan. I've learned so much from you. I recently bought a PRS SE and changed the pots because one of the Alpha pots had a frustrating flat spot. CTS and Switchcraft are my go-tos, but now I want to try Bourns.
i considering changing pots on my squier and on my fender. I guess i have to buy 3 tone/volume 500K pots for the Fender strat and 2 for the Squier Telecaster.
I have a Dimarzio chopper for bridge pickup in the Squier tele, and the bridge on my strat is a Seymore Duncan Hot rails!
The “rant” was exactly what I needed to hear right now 😂
Tone Vs Volume pot breakdown would be sweet. Thanks man...
Still searching for a pot that goes to 11
I had an ancient Fender Champ Amp that had a volume that went to 11. I gave it to my girlfriends son to finish graduating when he was talking about dropping out a few weeks before he granulated. He has been keeping me apprised of his adventures in making it work correctly. Most of the capacitors were shot or leaking or even burst. He has learned a lot from that amp and I didn't have to mess with it!
DiMarzio makes knobs that go to 11.
Old traynor amps
Mad Hatter guitar products
Mike Kelly, you’ll find those at the same place your drummer buys his custom made left-handed drumsticks.
Dylan is a wealth of knowledge and information and this man makes sense to me so much other bullshit on the internet and if I want answers I listen to Dylan he's a Legend !
You were very clear and profressional and to the point. Nice job and thank you.
Just ordered new pots for my fender. It got wrecked in hurricane Harvey. Stored at a buddy’s house over the garage and well, you know how hurricanes work.
'Hurricane worn' is the latest trend in certain circles.
It did not sit in water but s roof leaked occurred directly above it
That hurricane tone sounds like a combination of
Arrrrgh
And doohhh ( Homer Simpson)
Yamaha push/push pots were awesome silky smooth! Tap it does coil split tap again full humbucker!
Great video man, Thanks for all the great vids! I have a pot/pickup question... I have a small guitar repair shop in Mass. and I have a customer with a few of those Dean ML guitars (Big Pantera fan) And I put a new set of Bill Lawrence pups in his #1. So he gives me his #2 and says he thinks somethings wrong with the bridge pup (Seymour Duncan) So I take my multimeter and start checking just by plugging a cable in the output jack and putting clips on the +and - of the cable. His neck pickup reads 7.25k but his bridge pup only reads 4.3? Almost like it's only using 1 coil. So I told him that and he shows up at my shop with another ML! But this was a bolt on neck MLX, (I guess the cheaper version) So I checked those pups the same way and 8.5 on the neck and 9.2 on the bridge, ok excellent, swap pups with his #2, Easy peasy... But when I was getting ready to do the job I was rechecking the resistance on the dead pup and it was up to 6.5 from 4.3? W.T.H.? Lol. At this point I think I'm loosing my mind, Lol so I wen't to double check to make sure the volume pots were up all the way and the bridge pot was only on around 7/8. So I turned it back up to 10 and the resistance wen't back down to 4?? That was yesterday... So today instead of just replacing the pickup I'm going to throw a new mini pot (Dean does use those mini pots, thank god because those cavity's are small!!) And change everything... I know when I pull the pup I can check it the right way (out of the guitar) but what do you think is causing that? Bad pup or pot or both? I only ask cause you said you love talking about this shit! Lol. But I'm puzzled??? thx. again bro............... Mike (Ipswich River Guitars).
I like a good pot and not just the kind yer talking about! Just bought my first guitar on sale, a white Fender Strat vintera 60's modified and a monoprice 15w tube amp, it's a bunch of fun. Don't plan on modifying it any time soon, lol after all it already is? Your videos have been super helpful about understanding guitars and pickups. I am carefully learning how to setup my guitar the way I like it and love watching your videos on my lunch break.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. The tone pot on my low end priced guitar purchased for a nephew no longer functions. I'm trying to build up the courage to replace it. You probably have vids on that subject.
Hi Dylan! I got a SD Dimebucker bridge and a SD Invader neck for my Ibanez Gio budget guitar. I’ll be installing a Mallory .022 uF. Which log pots would you recommend? Thanks men 🙂
Great post I have a Gibson les Paul the volume pot was scratchy I try contact cleaner but now it’s worse I go to 10 no volume it’s like a bad connection but that’s fine ..any ideas ? .your the best am glad I come across your channel 👍👍👍
Dylan, I agree with you it sounds good and ain't broken leave it don't touch
I never thought about how the diameter of the pot affects the dialing precision. I never had problems with small pots, and always thought about using bigger knobs for more accuracy (if needed), but your point is 100% right and I never thought about it. Thanks!
it's 100% wrong. the diameter of the pot affects nothing but the diameter of the knob everything.
@@BigEdWo it's easier to choose the exact position on a longer piece of material with the same resistence
@@frankscassi4960 this is not true.... both circles have the same infinite number of points.... those infinite points relate perfectly to the paired infinite series of points on the knobs rotation.
@@IamtheWV17 of course, it's just easier to dial the exact point you want. Have you ever drawn an angle with a protractor? 1 degree with a small diameter protractor is not that easy to draw, much easier with a larger one. It's simple geometry: the circular arc of a 1 degree angle of a circle with a 1 inch radius (0.0174 in) is smaller than the circular arc of a 1 degree angle of a circle with a 2 inch radius (0.0349 in)
@@frankscassi4960 still wrong, you're drawing with the knob. 1° of sweep on the knob = 1° of sweep on the pot, regardless of pot size.
Love your channel, very informative, now I'm going to fix all my guitars that aren't broken!
I thought the same until this last time. Swapping CTS pots in to replace fullsize, crackly Alpha pots made a HUGE difference. And it wasn't related to resistance specs. The Alphas were all 505k-536k while the CTS were 477k-505k.
Its louder overall, much clearer, and just generally sounds better. No idea why. I used polypropylene caps and 50s wiring and I'm pretty sure it was already 50s wiring.
Thanks for your no nonsense approach and content based on fact , not opinion or “tradition”. Could you please do a vid on the pros and cons of passive vs active pickups, and the interchangeability between them - going from active to passive and vice versa. Also why a higher percentage of basses vs guitar are active. Cheers
Superb video Dylan! So informative. And I do have a question:
I use a fairly high gain tone via Pod Go, then ride my volume pot to clean it up. I am not a tone tweaker, crafting lots of different patches for my Pod Go. Much more of a caveman who just wants to plug in and play. Is there a type, brand or style of pot that provides the greatest flexibility & clarity for this?
Thanks again for a great video.
Love the video, extremely insightful. I had no idea there was such thing as "no load pots". I think that could be useful for people who rarely use the tone pot at all, except on occasion for something very particular. I have to admit, I also thought the little pots were just cheap. 😝
Hey Dylan, my 1988 American Tele has a stock TBX tone control, which I understand stands for Treble and Bass Cut. Would you please explain how these work and what the pros/cons are? Thanks!
This channel is waaaaay to underrated.
You should have 100k plus subs.
Thanks so much man. Feel free to share us around.
@@DylanTalksTone ,I always do. You're very personable and knowledgeable. It's because of your videos I've grown into a better guitar tech.
I like when youtube recommends these older videos from the guitar community.
Time to nerd out :)
Yes video on Tone vs Volume pots. Both Fender and Gibson plus why add capacitors??
Yes i agree. Finnally someone on you tube that knows what their talking about.
I just bought a walnut telecaster body so now I need a neck and all the other things , so this is the best lesson. I have no idea what walnut will do, but know that for what I want to do to this guitar it's beautiful. I'm goig to French polish it after some inlay work maybe, it's a work in the making that needs a neck strat or Tele. I'm not sure how heavy it is it arrives Fri 16 the body is unfinished so I was thinking about sanding a lot if it is heavy. I would really like your opinion on this, I didn't see any body cutouts on it, there were like 4 of these all for 35+- dollars so I grabbed one fore the experimental value, inlays a body that's not a factory fender but something to experiment with in some color tinting acquired as an oil painter as an artist, that and glazing etc working with depth layering over glazed images etc. I'm wondering about pickups wiring pots all that good stuff to compliment the walnut and what will be a stock fender neck with a dark fretboard, all maybes I do know this from watching you in other videos it's a give and take to get the best tone in a build. Good night
Hi Dylan. Great video. Loved your explanation. I recently bought a guitar from Hagstrom. It came with tiny CF pots. The guitar sounds phenomenal, but people have been telling me to change these pots and get larger, more well-known ones just because. They seem to work very well, and after your video, I think I'll keep them.
Some pots require more force to turn others are very loose, I like it a bit tighter, is there a way to tighten up the pots that spin easier or this baked into the pot?
*Edit* : Apologies, Dylan has done a few different videos in this, one on shielding and one on shielding vs tone loss
Hi Dylan, have you noticed any difference between foil shielding versus paint for strats? I've noticed some strats come with aluminium/copper foil lining the entire inside of the body, whereas some come with nothing or some come with that gooey gross black paint. Been wondering if theres any noticeable difference between copper/aluminium/paint/none, and what's your choice in your custom guitars?
I love the way you explain things. This is going in my Dylan Talks Tone folder.
Did you mean 5 reasons NOT to change your pots..cos that makes more sense..great information vid ty
What a great video on Pot!! Very instructive and I learned a lot. I always thought that if you are happy with the pot you got, then you will use it a lot. Never get it too hot, or it could smoke a lot. I heard that you can get pot online. Could you recommend a good dealer? I'm looking for something with a nice audio-visual type taper.
Thanks, love your channel!!
I just put new CTS pots into an 1995 Strat Squier series. Log taper 500Ω for volume and linear taper 500Ω for tone to match the original values. The capacitor is a Sprague orange drop. 047f.
The problem is that now the taper on all the pots is way off. The volume pot does does almost nothing from 1-5 and suddenly kicks in from 6-10.
The tone pots
Thanks for sharing I had no idea this is how it worked. I would like a bigger pot just to have more volume control
Would love to see you do a video on methods to brighten modern les paul wiring when you alter the volume level...
Good info. Doing a Frankenbass Vol, Blend,.Tone on a J-bass circuit.
Try series parallel on a P bass pickup push pull and the no load tone. Parallel P bass does Jazz Bass tones really well
This video was really good. Well presented and articulate in presentation. Thank you for sharing.
I agree completely Dylan, if you like what you have, don't change anything, some of the best advice I've heard in a long time. I use dimarzio pots, love the taper but, I do believe bourn's or cts makes them for dimarzio.
good video for one thing i will comment on is the "pot with the hole" when it goes past its 10 and you said its out of circuit and has no resistance, its actually the opposite it has infinite resistance, well the resistance of the air gap measured between the to points the end of the wiper arm and the wiper material.... tolerances yes on the cheaper maybe 10% up market maybe 5% military spec pots 1% as an example..... older pots can when you turn them grate as the carbon has actually worn of the wiper its self, so you get hills and troughs across the wiper arm its self and have of varying resistance, but some wd40 (water discernment formula 40 can fix this up) but if you want to be serious a little drop of cremlin oil will do a better job as its actually a creeping oil and will prolong the life a little longer.... remember too that pots they had from the 40s 50s and 60s were constructed with differing manufacturing particles in side as well. this affect the noise of the pot its self..when you put a noise meter across a pot it surprising how noisy they are..... just for your interest.
Dylan, I am just beginning to build my own stuff. You may consider me a student of yours in a way! Love your content & style!!
If I designed my own electronics setup, would you review it for me?
PS one more thing? I like second hand guitars history, price etc), they sounded "muddy" though, I bought some contact cleaner from the local hardware store and put that into the old pots, it kept the same 'profile of tone' and also removed the mud. Did the same in the amps.pots and soundboard pots too.
Hi there ! I've just subscribed - after watching a few of your videos on pots/capacitors etc. Absolutely great stuff as you are a great communicator - you make all this stuff so easy to understand. I have a 1957 Kay K-142 solid-body electric guitar (v cool metallic copper colour), with two Kay pancake/Zippo lighters. I don't know if there if the massive capacitors and/or resistors have gone bad or what - each pickup's concentric vol&tone pots affect the volume of the other pickup's volume - like WAY to much for my liking. One pickup's volume isn't as loud as it will go, unless I turn the other pickup's volume pot down a bit. It's very annoying. I'd really like to replace as little as possible in this vintage guitar - and hope to at least keep the concentric vol/tone pots. Not sure where to start on fixing this problem ! From watching your videos, I'm concerned that if I take it to a guitar shop repair guy, I'm gonna get a lotta recommendations for expensive capacitors etc - which I know from your videos is not critical (the type of capacitor anyway, but the value used may or may not suit what I want the guitar to do - no good or bad as such !).
From online searches on modern versus vintage wiring, I learned some vintage wiring choices DID have volume pots of each pickup affecting the other pickup. Not sure if this is exactly what I've got happening, or if my guitar has got worse than how it should be ?!!!
Any advice would be gratefully received !
One last question though - on stated tolerance levels of pots. I know there are mostly two pot values - 250ohm and 500ohm pots - and that either can be good for any pickup type - as it's really more about what sound the player is after, yeah ? I learned that from your videos. BUT, if a vol pot is out of the stated tolerance (eg. you mentioned one 500K pot was measured at 410K), why would that be a problem ? 410K might be quite good, if you tried both 250K and 500K pots and you couldn't decide which one you preferred ! ???
410K is only a problem is you specifically wanted 500K, right ? 410K might just sound better to you ? Or have I misunderstood ?
Loving your videos (so far, on the ones I've watched) - they sound very honest, and very informative. Many thanks !!
Good video. I see too many people upgrading cheap guitars with super awesome expensive pots and claiming it transformed their guitar tone beyond their wildest dreams. It gets kind of frustrating when you know that so long as the pots are within spec and soldered properly the difference in tone should be pretty much identical. Only upgrades I have done with my guitars is add push pulls for coil splits which makes the guitar more versatile.
My PRS SE's came with large pots except for the CU24 push pull coil tap tone pot which is a mini pot with annoying play in the shaft.
Does anyone make good metric shaft push pulls?
Don't think it has to be a mini pot though I should probably check the depth of the cavity just in case.
Hey Dylan can you speak about the Fender TBX tone pot . l am new in case you already have .
I have a problem with my strat (or myself 😅) and I’m wondering if you can do a long-distance-diagnosis:
High-E string and B-String always sound significantly more silent (to my ears and others) than the others although action is quite low and they’re height above the single coils is even closer than it should be according to setup guides I read and watched…
I‘ve done loads of adjusting and setup but nothing seems to really solve it. Also I did a „screwdriver test“ on the magnets and they seem to be fine.
My question: could it be due to wiring or potis not working properly or are my pickups just fucked (although it’s in any switch position) or is it a thing of setting it up properly (like nut-depth, bridge and so forth)? I’d like to know before I start soldering and swapping things out 😅
Cheers, love your channel ❤️
Thank you DTT! That was succinct and easy to understand.
New subscriber just wanted to say I've been binge watching your content and love the channel love learning about all this stuff very informative and very intelligent can't believe you only have 20k subs
thanks man. feel free to share.
Thanks for the info and great video!! Totally confirmed my issue with my PRS semi-hollowbody. The volume pots do nothing...not much... not much...cut out! And it sucks as I'm trying to get better about utilizing my guitar controls especially with my overdrive and fuzz pedals. Do you have a good recommendation for electronics I should switch too? Running 2 custom McCarty humbuckers with the typical 2 tone, 2 volume and 3-way toggle switch. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Love the pickups and the tone knows sweep pleasantly enough but the volume pots.....ugh!!
You could be perfectly happy with your tone but still missing out because that’s all you know. That’s why sometimes it is good to try new things to see what you may be missing. I recently upgraded to a Gibson SG that has much better electronics than my older Epiphone that I used to be pretty happy with. I was missing out big time. Now I want to replace all of the electronics in my Epi.
With that said, I understand what you are trying to say.
Thanks for the great videos.