This is so incredible, I am 16 years old and I am passionate about cameras although my family doesn't understand it much. I love seeing these types of artifacts and I have been seeing where I can get a camera like this. I love and live for this passion
The aperture values on this camera are given in the U.S. series (Uniform System series), and are not f numbers. US 4 is f/8, 8 is f/11, 16 is f/16, 32 is f/22, 64 is f/32, and 128 is f/64. Still pretty small but don’t confuse these numbers with their f values (except for 16)
Thanks for that info. I just made an assumption that those were F Values but looking closer to the face plate on the lens, I can clearly see the "US" stamped next to the first number. You learn something new every day. Thanks again!
@@joewannab1244 Hi Joe! Wonderful video, I love that you're putting this camera to good use! I have an old 3A that I do something similar with. I did also want to reiterate what Gemista said about the aperture values on your camera. The U.S. aperture system is also known as "Universal Standard". It is quite different from f-number values, as Gemista mentioned. Gemista is correct in the list of apertures they provided, except for the last one -- U.S. 128 is actually f/45, not f/64. I believe the reason you were getting good photos with such different apertures is because for your long exposures the aperture difference worked as a sort of compensation for the film's reciprocity failure. For the film you are shooting, you would need to double or even quadruple the exposure time based on the light readings you were taking to account for reciprocity failure--the difference between the U.S. aperture and equivalent f-stop is letting in far more light than your reading was expecting, so it's offsetting the reciprocity failure at those long exposures. If you were to shoot at normal shutter speeds (less than one second) you will definitely need to use the equivalent f-stop values that Gemista provided above. Great work, keep it up!
Please tell me about the #2 folding cartridge hawk-eye- model b( camera) made in the u.s.a. by Eastman Kodak co. Rochester NY use 120 film,please as l just came into ownership of , the other day she had not been closed up, for l'll guess 90 years, no joke she was frozen stiff, but l cleaned her up and now she could be used if l could find film,, but please tell me about this camera. She is older than 1900 ,right?!
@@titanicclockguy That camera would be from around the early 1920s, so give or take 100 years old. I have the later Model C version of the same camera. Unfortunately, your camera will likely not be usable since the bellows decompose over the years, causing holes to appear in them and lights leaks on the film.
Great video. I shoot with my 3A Model B with red bellows and absolutely love it. I’ve owned it for 50 years. It was my first camera snd caught my eye at first sight when I was 12 yrs old walking past an antique store. Thank you for taking the time to do such a sensitive interpretation of this unique camera.
I would love to see a pic of your Model B. Does your camera shoots the 118 film as well? Was there 118 available 50 years ago or did you have to adapt 120 too?
Thanks Joe. I enjoyed your video and am the wiser for watching it. I appreciated the technical education but what reached me even more powerfully was the sense of quiet enjoyment of what is nowadays an almost ancient art! Your patience and evident gratitude for the small things as the best stuff in life. I can see how another viewer Tai felt the video had cleansed their soul. The choice of sound track was spot on may I also say. I must do more photography perambulations of my own. I'm grateful for your gentle push. Go well.
Thank you David for the kind words. I too must get back to shooting film as daily work grind seems to yet again has gotten in the way of what I love to do.
Brilliant Joe love trying old cameras I only ever shot one folder a few weeks back a ferania falco 2 was happy with the results new sub for ya mate cheers paul
Thank You for the kind words Paul. Shooting the old folders has turned into a bit of a quirky obsession for me. I only wish that I had more free time to play with them more.
@@joewannab1244 totally getcha mate I’ve just bought a second a mint condition super Ikonta and also leading a bid on a cute as hell foitzik. I’m getting outta control. With the ferrania I’ve done two landscape shoots recorded them for the channel the third shoot was a portrait shoot I’m blown away by the quality of those even though there’s a light leak to repair. I’ve shot all types of cameras but the folders are so much fun 📷❤️
Great video! I recently received a Kodak Autographic Model H for my birthday that has very similar specifications, I think mine might be an earlier version of the Model H. The bellows are in very rough shape, and I might try to get them repaired or DIY some new ones for it. I'm a videographer for a small company in Maine, and all of the cameras I used in college and use today are digital. I used to work at a film and photo restoration and digitization company and gained a deep appreciation and fascination for old film and old cameras. The mechanical engineering that went into creating these old cameras amazes me that it allow them to continue working 100+ years later. The camera work in your videos is great, and the voice over and information was much appreciated! You've gained a new subscriber today :)
Thank you for the kind words and for subscribing. I have lots of videos planned for the future but I find it hard to find the time to complete them in my spare time. I too work as a pro videographer during my day job and sometimes I don't have the energy to edit passion projects when I get home. Thanks again. I will endeavor to get some more content finished.
I don't know how I missed this question. No. Based on the negatives from this camera, I don't see any evidence of light leaks from the bellows. I just cleaned the bellows with a weak (watered down) solution of ArmorAll . I find that this breaks down the grime nicely and hopefully moisturizes the bellows to prevent future cracking.
I enjoyed the video. I watched as research as I'm off to shoot my Thornton Pickard Ruby Roll Film camera this weekend. Wish me luck with my first roll.
I have the No.2 Autographic folding brownie from 1917 that takes 120 rolls. It is pretty mint and has its supplimental closeup lens and is in its original box. I will load it up and take it out this autumn (fall to you). Now, where is the nearest waterfall? If I can do a video of my exploits I will post to my channel. Signed.. inspired 65yr old.
I would love to make a tutorial but unfortunately I am crazy covered up with day job stuff right now. I encourage you to give it a try on your own. They really weren't that hard to make. You can also purchase a set on eBay here. www.ebay.com/itm/202786183851?hash=item2f36ff9aab:g:qrAAAOSwA65b3L9F
You can buy the adapters from eBay. Here is a link to one of the vendors. www.ebay.com/itm/118-to-120-Film-Spool-Adapter-Set-Kit-4pcs-For-Antique-Vintage-Cameras-Folding/202786183851?hash=item2f36ff9aab:g:qrAAAOSwA65b3L9F If I remember correctly, I just used a 7/8" dowel cut into 2 lengths. I drilled a hole through them and added a metal pin to one end of each. I used craft foam to add tension to hold everything together. photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO4v7ACAAA8YVofqXyrktIypf7cDpf0BkbCsLDG photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMOd_NawAKcOcJ-1_dqc8x0ylGxMzS8OtJr92s0
I inherited one from my aunt after she passed. It is a "No. 3A folding pocket kodak model b-5" S/N 26486" that was made in Toronto, Canada. I have been trying to figure out when it was made and which location in Toronto that it was made in? Any site that you can direct me to to answer my question? Thanx!
Joseph, I believe there are still some labs out there that will process 120 film for you but to be honest, I believe that processing your own film is really the way to go. I am working on a video right now that gives the basics on how to get started processing your own film. Hopefully, I'll get that out before too long. For a minimal investment in time and money, you can be set up to process your own black and white film which makes shooting with vintage film cameras much more enjoyable. There are many videos on TH-cam that can get you started. I recommend searching for "Rodinal" and "Stand Developing." This is a very simple style of Black and White film developing that is perfect for someone getting started or if you are like me... someone who hasn't worked with film in a very long time.
Hi so I got my hand on one and trying to restore it ,so I can take some pictures. But the foldible paper is so damaged. Do you know what that part is called and where I can buy one and how I can replace it.
Hello, I think you are referring to the bellows. This is the light tight material that expands out when you extend the lens. Depending on how badly the bellows are damaged, you may be able to repair them with some flexible light tight tape. (black electrician's tape) I have another camera that has some pinhole light leaks around the folds which I am considering using some type of flexible latex type paint to coat and fill in the holes. Be sure to thoroughly clean the bellows before trying any repairs with an adhesive. Any dust or oil residue from hands can make the job harder. I always give the camera a thorough cleaning before attempting any repairs. You'll find most of the problems while you're cleaning. Good luck! PS: There are some people out there making replacement bellows but for me, the cost and time to do the job is not practical.
eBay is a pretty good place to sell an antique camera. I'll be honest with you.... you'd be better off hanging on to this camera as the current market value isn't much more than about $50. I think I paid around $20 shipped for mine on eBay. It might be better to keep a family heirloom as it's value can only go up.
I use the WBPhoto Light Meter App. I use an android which works great. Here's a link to the free version. I liked the app enough to purchase the paid version. Here is a link to the free version: play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.willblaschko.android.lightmeterv2.free
I've found this no 3a folding pocket kodak model B-5 in an antic. It's assembled in Toronto and I'm having a rough time find out more about this beauty! S/N 26486. It also has this pen that you could write directly on the negative? Does anyone have any info on it?
I don't know much about the Number 3 models, but the A denotes it being autographic, unfortanetly autographic paper is long gone, and the door only serves as a good way to ruin your photos should you open it, but they are a cool piece of niche camera history :)
The No. 3 Folding Pocket Kodak is a roll film camera. It does not have an option to shoot sheet film so you won't have to mess with holders. I recommend buying Holga 400 film (Cheapest 120 B&W I can Find) and trying it out. You'll need to make or purchase the spacers I show in the video to adapt the 120 film spool to this camera.
@@joewannab1244 I like to shoot color but I also wanna take advantage of the extra negative area. It's too bad they don't make 122 film anymore. Is it not possible to make your own? Perhaps by cutting up 4x5 sheet film and taping it together? Or 120 film?
I don't know about making 122 from 4x5 stock. That is a bit out of my league in the DIY department. I suggest purchasing some 120 in either B&W or C41 Color and enjoying the camera. 120 medium format is enjoying a resurgence right now and so there are many different options out there. The only drawback with this particular camera is your going to end up with a 6x12cm negative. That's not a problem if you are scanning your negatives but may prove challenging if you are chemical printing. You'll need a custom 6x12 negative carrier. I personally really enjoy the unique 2:1 aspect of this camera with 120 film. Joe
You unload it just like most other 120 roll film cameras. You turn the advance dial until you feel the paper come off of the spool. I usually turn it a few more times to be safe. Then open the back of the camera and remove the exposed film on the take up spool. Be sure not to open the camera in direct sunlight as it could fog your film. If you're using a vintage spool for 118 film as your take up spool, and you are sending the film to a lab, you will want to transfer the film to a 120 spool so you don't lose your antique spool. I develop my own film so that isn't an issue for me.
Get some 122 spools with backing and some newer kodak aerial film (color) and some older b&w aerial film then cut it to size and you got yourself some 122 film There was also the no4 cameras that used 5 inch wide film for 4x5 sizes and it should hold the film just fine
I shoot a lot of 4x5 and that is certainly a long process. It might take me 4 hours to get 3 images. Vintage cameras are great. They take skill and you have to actually know what you are doing.
I agree completely. I too shoot some 4X5 with an old Graflex Graphic View. Someday, I'll be able to retire and be able to shoot vintage cameras full time.
@@joewannab1244 I have a graflex speed graphic, the camera body is from 1935 best I can tell based upon the serial code. The lens is a zeiss tessar 135mm f4.5 from 1927. Great lens a really shockingly good lens for one thats pushing 100 years old.
Christopher, Yes. I learned about this recently. I am thankful that long exposures are so forgiving when it comes to developing, especially with stand development in Rodinal. Perhaps I was unwittingly compensating for reciprocity failure by calculating my exposure times based on F128 vs F64. Vintage photography is full of happy accidents.
@@joewannab1244 : Ha! Yes, "happy accidents" and luckily, a bit of film latitude in a scene that wasn't overly contrasty (whew!). I own a No. 3 Folding Pocket Kodak, Model E-3, with the same aperture system. I notice that you still don't exactly have the information you need (the U.S. aperture system f/128 isn't f/64), so from colleague-to-colleague, here is a scale I culled from online ... and then checked and ADJUSTED to the reality of my actual aperture (I actually measured the iris diaphragm opening with vernier calipers and then calculated the true f/stop). Most of what I measured matched up fine with a chart I found, originally published in 1899 with the SEVEN aperture systems being used at the time (!). Here they are (U.S. system stop / current f/stop system): 4/11; 8/14; 16/16; 32/22; 64/32; 128/45 ... By the way, you might notice that your aperture might go wider that what's marked on your lens. According to my measurements, that un-marked position will give you f/8 ! (test it rather than taking my word!) Hope this helps.
This is so incredible, I am 16 years old and I am passionate about cameras although my family doesn't understand it much. I love seeing these types of artifacts and I have been seeing where I can get a camera like this. I love and live for this passion
The aperture values on this camera are given in the U.S. series (Uniform System series), and are not f numbers. US 4 is f/8, 8 is f/11, 16 is f/16, 32 is f/22, 64 is f/32, and 128 is f/64. Still pretty small but don’t confuse these numbers with their f values (except for 16)
Thanks for that info. I just made an assumption that those were F Values but looking closer to the face plate on the lens, I can clearly see the "US" stamped next to the first number. You learn something new every day. Thanks again!
@@joewannab1244 Hi Joe! Wonderful video, I love that you're putting this camera to good use! I have an old 3A that I do something similar with. I did also want to reiterate what Gemista said about the aperture values on your camera. The U.S. aperture system is also known as "Universal Standard". It is quite different from f-number values, as Gemista mentioned. Gemista is correct in the list of apertures they provided, except for the last one -- U.S. 128 is actually f/45, not f/64. I believe the reason you were getting good photos with such different apertures is because for your long exposures the aperture difference worked as a sort of compensation for the film's reciprocity failure. For the film you are shooting, you would need to double or even quadruple the exposure time based on the light readings you were taking to account for reciprocity failure--the difference between the U.S. aperture and equivalent f-stop is letting in far more light than your reading was expecting, so it's offsetting the reciprocity failure at those long exposures. If you were to shoot at normal shutter speeds (less than one second) you will definitely need to use the equivalent f-stop values that Gemista provided above. Great work, keep it up!
Please tell me about the #2 folding cartridge hawk-eye- model b( camera) made in the u.s.a. by Eastman Kodak co. Rochester NY use 120 film,please as l just came into ownership of , the other day she had not been closed up, for l'll guess 90 years, no joke she was frozen stiff, but l cleaned her up and now she could be used if l could find film,, but please tell me about this camera. She is older than 1900 ,right?!
@@titanicclockguy That camera would be from around the early 1920s, so give or take 100 years old. I have the later Model C version of the same camera. Unfortunately, your camera will likely not be usable since the bellows decompose over the years, causing holes to appear in them and lights leaks on the film.
Great video. I shoot with my 3A Model B with red bellows and absolutely love it. I’ve owned it for 50 years. It was my first camera snd caught my eye at first sight when I was 12 yrs old walking past an antique store. Thank you for taking the time to do such a sensitive interpretation of this unique camera.
I would love to see a pic of your Model B. Does your camera shoots the 118 film as well? Was there 118 available 50 years ago or did you have to adapt 120 too?
Thanks Joe. I enjoyed your video and am the wiser for watching it. I appreciated the technical education but what reached me even more powerfully was the sense of quiet enjoyment of what is nowadays an almost ancient art! Your patience and evident gratitude for the small things as the best stuff in life. I can see how another viewer Tai felt the video had cleansed their soul. The choice of sound track was spot on may I also say. I must do more photography perambulations of my own. I'm grateful for your gentle push. Go well.
Thank you David for the kind words. I too must get back to shooting film as daily work grind seems to yet again has gotten in the way of what I love to do.
Thank you. This video of yours cleanse my soul.
Gorgeous scenery & awesome photos! Amazing what these Antique cameras can produce! Of course with someone who knows what they’re doing. 😊
I totally agree. These older film cameras can produce some very nice images in the right hands but its even fun for novices like me.
You definitely don’t seem like novice! Your photos were amazing!
Thank You
Brilliant Joe love trying old cameras I only ever shot one folder a few weeks back a ferania falco 2 was happy with the results new sub for ya mate cheers paul
Thank You for the kind words Paul. Shooting the old folders has turned into a bit of a quirky obsession for me. I only wish that I had more free time to play with them more.
@@joewannab1244 totally getcha mate I’ve just bought a second a mint condition super Ikonta and also leading a bid on a cute as hell foitzik. I’m getting outta control. With the ferrania I’ve done two landscape shoots recorded them for the channel the third shoot was a portrait shoot I’m blown away by the quality of those even though there’s a light leak to repair. I’ve shot all types of cameras but the folders are so much fun 📷❤️
Great video! I recently received a Kodak Autographic Model H for my birthday that has very similar specifications, I think mine might be an earlier version of the Model H. The bellows are in very rough shape, and I might try to get them repaired or DIY some new ones for it.
I'm a videographer for a small company in Maine, and all of the cameras I used in college and use today are digital. I used to work at a film and photo restoration and digitization company and gained a deep appreciation and fascination for old film and old cameras. The mechanical engineering that went into creating these old cameras amazes me that it allow them to continue working 100+ years later.
The camera work in your videos is great, and the voice over and information was much appreciated! You've gained a new subscriber today :)
Thank you for the kind words and for subscribing. I have lots of videos planned for the future but I find it hard to find the time to complete them in my spare time. I too work as a pro videographer during my day job and sometimes I don't have the energy to edit passion projects when I get home. Thanks again. I will endeavor to get some more content finished.
How do you plan on restoring the bellows?
I don't know how I missed this question. No. Based on the negatives from this camera, I don't see any evidence of light leaks from the bellows. I just cleaned the bellows with a weak (watered down) solution of ArmorAll . I find that this breaks down the grime nicely and hopefully moisturizes the bellows to prevent future cracking.
I enjoyed the video. I watched as research as I'm off to shoot my Thornton Pickard Ruby Roll Film camera this weekend. Wish me luck with my first roll.
Good luck. If you get anything you like, I would love to see it.
Very good and beautifull image and câmera.
Thank You.
I have the No.2 Autographic folding brownie from 1917 that takes 120 rolls. It is pretty mint and has its supplimental closeup lens and is in its original box. I will load it up and take it out this autumn (fall to you). Now, where is the nearest waterfall? If I can do a video of my exploits I will post to my channel. Signed.. inspired 65yr old.
Great Video! Thanks so much!
amazing photos :), would it be possible to do a tutorial on the spacers?
I would love to make a tutorial but unfortunately I am crazy covered up with day job stuff right now. I encourage you to give it a try on your own. They really weren't that hard to make. You can also purchase a set on eBay here. www.ebay.com/itm/202786183851?hash=item2f36ff9aab:g:qrAAAOSwA65b3L9F
Ho! I Just bought the Kodak autographic 3a model c. Can you show how you made the adjustments to fit the 120 roll in it? Thanks! Nice video!
You can buy the adapters from eBay. Here is a link to one of the vendors. www.ebay.com/itm/118-to-120-Film-Spool-Adapter-Set-Kit-4pcs-For-Antique-Vintage-Cameras-Folding/202786183851?hash=item2f36ff9aab:g:qrAAAOSwA65b3L9F
If I remember correctly, I just used a 7/8" dowel cut into 2 lengths. I drilled a hole through them and added a metal pin to one end of each. I used craft foam to add tension to hold everything together. photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO4v7ACAAA8YVofqXyrktIypf7cDpf0BkbCsLDG
photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMOd_NawAKcOcJ-1_dqc8x0ylGxMzS8OtJr92s0
Thanks!
great video
Thank You for watching.
I inherited one from my aunt after she passed. It is a "No. 3A folding pocket kodak model b-5" S/N 26486" that was made in Toronto, Canada.
I have been trying to figure out when it was made and which location in Toronto that it was made in? Any site that you can direct me to to answer my question?
Thanx!
Camera Wiki is a good place to start. camera-wiki.org/
A quick google search turned up several leads... It looks like it was made between 1909-1914
So how does it work? I own a camera like this and want to use it but I have no idea how to even use it.
where or how can you develope film used in these old kodak cameras?
Joseph,
I believe there are still some labs out there that will process 120 film for you but to be honest, I believe that processing your own film is really the way to go. I am working on a video right now that gives the basics on how to get started processing your own film. Hopefully, I'll get that out before too long.
For a minimal investment in time and money, you can be set up to process your own black and white film which makes shooting with vintage film cameras much more enjoyable. There are many videos on TH-cam that can get you started. I recommend searching for "Rodinal" and "Stand Developing." This is a very simple style of Black and White film developing that is perfect for someone getting started or if you are like me... someone who hasn't worked with film in a very long time.
Hi so I got my hand on one and trying to restore it ,so I can take some pictures. But the foldible paper is so damaged. Do you know what that part is called and where I can buy one and how I can replace it.
Hello,
I think you are referring to the bellows. This is the light tight material that expands out when you extend the lens. Depending on how badly the bellows are damaged, you may be able to repair them with some flexible light tight tape. (black electrician's tape) I have another camera that has some pinhole light leaks around the folds which I am considering using some type of flexible latex type paint to coat and fill in the holes. Be sure to thoroughly clean the bellows before trying any repairs with an adhesive. Any dust or oil residue from hands can make the job harder. I always give the camera a thorough cleaning before attempting any repairs. You'll find most of the problems while you're cleaning. Good luck!
PS: There are some people out there making replacement bellows but for me, the cost and time to do the job is not practical.
Hey bud I’ve been going through my grandfather’s old stuff and I found one of these in great shape who would I take it to to sell it
eBay is a pretty good place to sell an antique camera. I'll be honest with you.... you'd be better off hanging on to this camera as the current market value isn't much more than about $50. I think I paid around $20 shipped for mine on eBay. It might be better to keep a family heirloom as it's value can only go up.
Nice video! Hey, I’m just curious. What’s that light meter app you were using. Do you like it?
I use the WBPhoto Light Meter App. I use an android which works great.
Here's a link to the free version. I liked the app enough to purchase the paid version. Here is a link to the free version: play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.willblaschko.android.lightmeterv2.free
I've found this no 3a folding pocket kodak model B-5 in an antic. It's assembled in Toronto and I'm having a rough time find out more about this beauty! S/N 26486. It also has this pen that you could write directly on the negative?
Does anyone have any info on it?
I don't know much about the Number 3 models, but the A denotes it being autographic, unfortanetly autographic paper is long gone, and the door only serves as a good way to ruin your photos should you open it, but they are a cool piece of niche camera history :)
@@no.7893 Thanks for the info.
@@no.7893 I also found/have a No. 2 Folding Autographic Brownie
S/N 72918.
Do you know any info about this?
can you cut up 4x5 film and make your own 122 film rolls? i would love to shoot with this camera but not with film holders.
The No. 3 Folding Pocket Kodak is a roll film camera. It does not have an option to shoot sheet film so you won't have to mess with holders. I recommend buying Holga 400 film (Cheapest 120 B&W I can Find) and trying it out. You'll need to make or purchase the spacers I show in the video to adapt the 120 film spool to this camera.
@@joewannab1244 I like to shoot color but I also wanna take advantage of the extra negative area. It's too bad they don't make 122 film anymore. Is it not possible to make your own? Perhaps by cutting up 4x5 sheet film and taping it together? Or 120 film?
I don't know about making 122 from 4x5 stock. That is a bit out of my league in the DIY department. I suggest purchasing some 120 in either B&W or C41 Color and enjoying the camera. 120 medium format is enjoying a resurgence right now and so there are many different options out there. The only drawback with this particular camera is your going to end up with a 6x12cm negative. That's not a problem if you are scanning your negatives but may prove challenging if you are chemical printing. You'll need a custom 6x12 negative carrier. I personally really enjoy the unique 2:1 aspect of this camera with 120 film. Joe
how do you unload the film after it’s done?
You unload it just like most other 120 roll film cameras. You turn the advance dial until you feel the paper come off of the spool. I usually turn it a few more times to be safe. Then open the back of the camera and remove the exposed film on the take up spool. Be sure not to open the camera in direct sunlight as it could fog your film. If you're using a vintage spool for 118 film as your take up spool, and you are sending the film to a lab, you will want to transfer the film to a 120 spool so you don't lose your antique spool. I develop my own film so that isn't an issue for me.
Get some 122 spools with backing and some newer kodak aerial film (color) and some older b&w aerial film then cut it to size and you got yourself some 122 film
There was also the no4 cameras that used 5 inch wide film for 4x5 sizes and it should hold the film just fine
I shoot a lot of 4x5 and that is certainly a long process. It might take me 4 hours to get 3 images. Vintage cameras are great. They take skill and you have to actually know what you are doing.
I agree completely. I too shoot some 4X5 with an old Graflex Graphic View. Someday, I'll be able to retire and be able to shoot vintage cameras full time.
@@joewannab1244 I have a graflex speed graphic, the camera body is from 1935 best I can tell based upon the serial code. The lens is a zeiss tessar 135mm f4.5 from 1927. Great lens a really shockingly good lens for one thats pushing 100 years old.
The name of this machine is revealed in the work of reshat nuri güntekin anatolian notes.
Hi Joe, it's not "f/128" ; the "U.S." aperture system on those old Kodak folding cameras aren't the same system as today's f/stops.
Christopher,
Yes. I learned about this recently. I am thankful that long exposures are so forgiving when it comes to developing, especially with stand development in Rodinal. Perhaps I was unwittingly compensating for reciprocity failure by calculating my exposure times based on F128 vs F64. Vintage photography is full of happy accidents.
@@joewannab1244 : Ha! Yes, "happy accidents" and luckily, a bit of film latitude in a scene that wasn't overly contrasty (whew!). I own a No. 3 Folding Pocket Kodak, Model E-3, with the same aperture system. I notice that you still don't exactly have the information you need (the U.S. aperture system f/128 isn't f/64), so from colleague-to-colleague, here is a scale I culled from online ... and then checked and ADJUSTED to the reality of my actual aperture (I actually measured the iris diaphragm opening with vernier calipers and then calculated the true f/stop). Most of what I measured matched up fine with a chart I found, originally published in 1899 with the SEVEN aperture systems being used at the time (!). Here they are (U.S. system stop / current f/stop system): 4/11; 8/14; 16/16; 32/22; 64/32; 128/45 ... By the way, you might notice that your aperture might go wider that what's marked on your lens. According to my measurements, that un-marked position will give you f/8 ! (test it rather than taking my word!) Hope this helps.
WOW! Thanks! Great stuff.