im glad i found this video doing the same swap for a customer and just needed to know exactly what to do thanks so much for putting the video on youtube!!
Just wanted to drop you a tip that instead of taking off the shroud to hold the flywheel you can pull the spark plug and feed in a couple feet of recoil rope. When the poison comes back up it can't get to TDC and locks the crank. Just spin backwards and pull the rope back out once you're done.
Excellent presentation, made it look pretty easy. I'm doing the same thing but removing a Kohler K161T. I'm sure it's not going to be as easy as you made it look ! Keep up the good work and thanks for the video.
I just picked up a troy Built tiller like yours but no electric start. It was a free barn fine. Believe it or not it had the original HH60 Tecumseh 6 HP engine. I looked it over. Low compression. So i replaced the head gasket , oil and tinkered with the carb. The old girl runs like new. Amazing.
My Horse wouldn’t start last year so I bought 4-5 used Horses and a couple need engines so I’ll get to try replacing a couple engines. I got mine fixed too. I can take them to parades and have team tilling events! Thanks for the inspiration
I don't know about that engine , but I used the Honda GX 200 for mine , and it is a beast now. You do have to disable the low oil shut down wires. It's a solid engine and have no regrets.
It's a good fast fix for sure. I bought an old Horse for 75 dollars not running. New mag,carb and unstuck intake valve and she runs great. For my time and money it was worth keeping it as is
Don't know if anybody had a problem with the 'low oil sensor' shutting the engine down when tilling deep, but mine did. I disconnected it, and it now will till to depth. I also shut it down in the deep till position, checked the oil, and added a few ounces. It's barely over full, but not enough to hurt.
Tilled the sandy garden once this year and when I went to do it again nock nock nock and bang after 40 years the 8HP sent the rod threw the cylinder so I bought a replacement listed as 7 HP and when it came it was 6.5 so I put it on and when I went to till I would dig in 5" and it would stall out so I have been trying everything like changing the pudding in the gear box and putting some lube in the dry tine gear box but still it stalls seems like a lack of balls but watching this video it never dawned on me that there is a low oil shut off that the dig angle might trigger so thanks for the video I am out to try it again.
Glad that yours went well. I pulled the Kohler K181 ST off my Horse model where the shaft is .75". The Predator motor has a 1" shaft. If I bore out the original PTO pulley, there won't be any key way and the bore will be too thin for a new keyway to be broached. Oh well, back to the drawing board.
Troybilt used nothing but 3/4inch shaft engines i used to work at factory they did it because u had to get all parts from them belts are a odd size too
@@mariodinovo4018 ...thank you for building badass made in USA machines in the old days. My family had a Horse for 40 years....a real tough machine....
I'm almost a novice at swapping out an engine but I need to on my TB tiller. It's really old with a 7.5hp Kohler that's running but takes a lot of work to get it going. Can't afford 2k for a new one but I can buy a HF for 200 bucks. I hope it's as easy as it looks haha.
Great tiller. I have one which I believe was made in 79. I will replace the original engine this season, but the rest of the tiller is still rock solid.
My 75 year old neighbor just Bartered for one the other day and he wants me to get it going for him The engine is fine ( replaced not long ago ) but it is stuck with the tines engaged When you pull the rope it turns the tines I'm wondering if there's any where to buy parts for it I don't even know what the levers do or that T handle sticking up in the middle I've never worked on one this old
@@arnoldscully8906 I just rebuilt mine. I got it in trade for some work, everything was rusted stuck,the engine was shot except for the engine I got all my parts from custom parts in Tenn.
Howdy! Thanks for the video. Ive followed your video and installed a new predator engine. Im running into an issue where once i dig the tines into the soil, the pulley seems to spin in place, lots of smoke from the burning belts! Is this simply that i havent tightened the pulley onto the crankshaft enough or do you think i have a different issue? Sorry, im very green at working on this stuff.
The predator engine has a 1inch shaft and will not work with the Troy bilt tiller. The tiller needs a 3/4 inch shaft engine for the pully to work. The Kohler engine you used is a direct replacement for all Troy Bilt Horse tillers. Good video. Thanks.
I have a Tecumseh HS50, it appears to have a camshaft pulley for reverse. Is this how this old engine was set up? Or did Troybilt change the forward and reverse pulley design? Great video bro
Hey, thanks for the knowledge! I have an older Horse that I bought used and it lasted exactly 40 feet before the 8-hp Tecumseh engine blew!! I bought another tiller and am just as screwed. I bought a new-looking Southland srtt196E only to find the tines dig but it does not propel the tiller forward as it digs. I now find that they no longer make the tiller so I will have to figure something out once I understand what the problem is. I bought a new motor for the horse and am about to start removing the engine from the tiller. When I was looking it over a few minutes ago, I noticed that the bottom pully just flops around like it's not bolted down, is this normal or is this another problem to deal with? I'm beginning to think that I have a cursed garden that is killing my tillers. lol. thanks, lemme know what you think.
Any chance you kept the recoil strater pulley from the Troy Bilt? I have a real old TB but the recoil starter had broken on the inside and one dawg is missing. I have been unable to find any replacement for the recoil starter.
I’m not really sure why you would re-power, I would only Repair and I think it’s worth more with an original engine. And your original engine actually has electric start. I have two With Electric starts
To rebuild this engine would have cost twice as much as the new engine did (if I could even find all the parts - crank, rod, oversize piston/rings, valves, gaskets, ect). Also I HATE old flat head engines. You can get way more power and ease of starting from a new overhead valve engine. Having a tiller with a battery is pointless to me when it only gets used a couple times each year, because by the next year the battery is dead. So most people aren't going to buy a new battery every year to only start and machine a couple times. Thats exactly why I got this machine on trade in, it was too hard to pull start and they were tired of buying a new battery every time they wanted to use it. I sold this machine for $850 with the new engine and sold the old engine for $60 for parts. I was happy with that (I had less then $400 in it).
@@j2buildsit Although you can get more power with a overhead valve engine the simplicity of the flat head cannot be overstated. Were it I, I would pull the piston and rod. Inspect the crankshaft journal, replace the bearings or anything broken, re-ring, and put it back together. I have seen engines with nothing more of A problem down the connecting rod bolts starting to come loose. Four hours labor, $20 in parts. As to it being a hard starting, I’ve never seen a Briggs & Stratton with a clean carburetor that was hard to start. As to the battery issue. I don’t even leave the battery in the tiller. I use a battery with the handle and use the same battery for the lawnmower. So I will normally get a minimum of two seasons/years out of a battery with A possibility of three. And what’s with these predator engines when a very easily started Honda engine really isn’t that expensive one wall through Amazon
@@MrRoverpilot repowering these is way easier then rebuilding, and besides it's a Troy Bilt Horse these things always hold their value no matter what engine is on it. The older ones especially are built like tanks and the other components will outlast any engine put on it. The average geek boy collector will want it original and shiny and will store it away in his shed and it never sees the light of day. The average person looking to use it wants it running well versus originality so therefore as he said and proved my point he still got 850 out of it which realistically is not far off of what you would pay for one thats been totally restored, maybe 1000 to 1200 at best, keep in mind only so much someone will pay for an old tiller...
Don't need to do all that measuring just measure the shaft and if they are the same size go with it. The only thing I had to change was the bolt that held the pully on which is on the manual of the new engine.
They just came out with the predator 224cc which should be plenty of power for a tiller like this. Those old briggs engines like this one were rated at 8 hp but most likely put out 7 hp or less, especially over time as they got more worn out.
The original engine on mine is 8HP. The only Predator engine that would work is the 212 cc engine which is about 6.6 HP. Would that be big enough? I’m thinking I should go with the Kohler Command Pro because it’s 9.5 HP. Just a tiny bit bigger
Keep in mind that your old "8 hp" engine was likely only actually putting out 5 to 7 hp at the most. Possibly even less if it was worn out. How they use to rate hp on engines back then was a lot different than the requirements now. But, that being said, I would still try to put the biggest engine on there that will fit. It's always better to have too much power than not enough.
Yes, the Predator engine will work great. I have a small engine repair shop and I’ve put Predator engines on probably 7 to 8 of these old Horse tillers. I recommend the Predator 224cc Max Performance engine. I have one in the shop right now I just finished.
Yes I did the tine seals, but they were a pain and I wasn't able to shoot a video on them. I ended up drilling two small holes in them and installing a screw. Then pulling on the screws to get the seal out.
@@j2buildsit You remove the Handle and pins that hold the engine carriage, remove engine carriage, measure and record pulley location, remove pulley, remove engine, install in reverse order, takes about half the time, all in the troy bilt owners manual.
I love how you say measure. Long A
😊
Great video thank you so much !
im glad i found this video doing the same swap for a customer and just needed to know exactly what to do thanks so much for putting the video on youtube!!
Thanks for watching!
Just wanted to drop you a tip that instead of taking off the shroud to hold the flywheel you can pull the spark plug and feed in a couple feet of recoil rope. When the poison comes back up it can't get to TDC and locks the crank. Just spin backwards and pull the rope back out once you're done.
Very nice sir! Well done... I am about to do this exact same operation.
Thank you & am looking forward to this transforming overhaul.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent presentation, made it look pretty easy. I'm doing the same thing but removing a Kohler K161T. I'm sure it's not going to be as easy as you made it look ! Keep up the good work and thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
So satisfying man. Unreal work
Thanks for watching!
I just picked up a troy Built tiller like yours but no electric start. It was a free barn fine. Believe it or not it had the original HH60 Tecumseh 6 HP engine. I looked it over. Low compression. So i replaced the head gasket , oil and tinkered with the carb. The old girl runs like new. Amazing.
My Horse wouldn’t start last year so I bought 4-5 used Horses and a couple need engines so I’ll get to try replacing a couple engines. I got mine fixed too. I can take them to parades and have team tilling events! Thanks for the inspiration
I don't know about that engine , but I used the Honda GX 200 for mine , and it is a beast now. You do have to disable the low oil shut down wires.
It's a solid engine and have no regrets.
We have had great luck with the Predator engines and for the price you just cant beat them. Thanks for watching.
Calling them the predator engine makes it sound better than a Chinese engine (that it is).
Did you use the Honda engine on the same type of tiller?
It's a good fast fix for sure. I bought an old Horse for 75 dollars not running. New mag,carb and unstuck intake valve and she runs great. For my time and money it was worth keeping it as is
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great video! We enjoyed it!
Thanks for watching!
Don't know if anybody had a problem with the 'low oil sensor' shutting the engine down when tilling deep, but mine did. I disconnected it, and it now will till to depth. I also shut it down in the deep till position, checked the oil, and added a few ounces. It's barely over full, but not enough to hurt.
Yes I had to unplug the sensor on this one too. Thanks for watching!
Tilled the sandy garden once this year and when I went to do it again nock nock nock and bang after 40 years the 8HP sent the rod threw the cylinder so I bought a replacement listed as 7 HP and when it came it was 6.5 so I put it on and when I went to till I would dig in 5" and it would stall out so I have been trying everything like changing the pudding in the gear box and putting some lube in the dry tine gear box but still it stalls seems like a lack of balls but watching this video it never dawned on me that there is a low oil shut off that the dig angle might trigger so thanks for the video I am out to try it again.
Yep, you defiantly have to disconnect the low oil shut off.
Glad that yours went well. I pulled the Kohler K181 ST off my Horse model where the shaft is .75". The Predator motor has a 1" shaft. If I bore out the original PTO pulley, there won't be any key way and the bore will be too thin for a new keyway to be broached. Oh well, back to the drawing board.
The Predator 212 engine would have a .75" shaft
Troybilt used nothing but 3/4inch shaft engines i used to work at factory they did it because u had to get all parts from them belts are a odd size too
@@mariodinovo4018 ...thank you for building badass made in USA machines in the old days. My family had a Horse for 40 years....a real tough machine....
@@PowerEquipmentMan I hope so I just the 224 motor yesterday and mine has a old weak kohler 7hp motor on it
When the tiller seals start leaking I used corn head grease. Very heavy and still lubes the gears.
I'm almost a novice at swapping out an engine but I need to on my TB tiller. It's really old with a 7.5hp Kohler that's running but takes a lot of work to get it going. Can't afford 2k for a new one but I can buy a HF for 200 bucks. I hope it's as easy as it looks haha.
This one went pretty easy. Good luck with yours!
Dude I have an old troybuilt I need to remotor,,, which HF motor did you use and di you have problems with the shaft being to long?
I worked at troybilt in troy ny 90000 tillers a year produced 860.00 for 6hp horse model 1979
Great tiller. I have one which I believe was made in 79. I will replace the original engine this season, but the rest of the tiller is still rock solid.
My 75 year old neighbor just Bartered for one the other day and he wants me to get it going for him
The engine is fine ( replaced not long ago ) but it is stuck with the tines engaged
When you pull the rope it turns the tines
I'm wondering if there's any where to buy parts for it
I don't even know what the levers do or that T handle sticking up in the middle
I've never worked on one this old
@@arnoldscully8906 I just rebuilt mine. I got it in trade for some work, everything was rusted stuck,the engine was shot except for the engine I got all my parts from custom parts in Tenn.
Howdy! Thanks for the video. Ive followed your video and installed a new predator engine. Im running into an issue where once i dig the tines into the soil, the pulley seems to spin in place, lots of smoke from the burning belts! Is this simply that i havent tightened the pulley onto the crankshaft enough or do you think i have a different issue? Sorry, im very green at working on this stuff.
The predator engine has a 1inch shaft and will not work with the Troy bilt tiller. The tiller needs a 3/4 inch shaft engine for the pully to work. The Kohler engine you used is a direct replacement for all Troy Bilt Horse tillers. Good video. Thanks.
The Predator 6.5 hp comes with a 3/4" shaft and would be plenty of power for this tiller. Thanks for watching
@@j2buildsit And $139.99. Very much budget-oriented!
I have a Tecumseh HS50, it appears to have a camshaft pulley for reverse. Is this how this old engine was set up? Or did Troybilt change the forward and reverse pulley design? Great video bro
great video. thank you.
Thanks for watching!
I used the three shims off my old motor and it still not libeling up what size washer do I need thanks
Hey, thanks for the knowledge! I have an older Horse that I bought used and it lasted exactly 40 feet before the 8-hp Tecumseh engine blew!! I bought another tiller and am just as screwed. I bought a new-looking Southland srtt196E only to find the tines dig but it does not propel the tiller forward as it digs. I now find that they no longer make the tiller so I will have to figure something out once I understand what the problem is. I bought a new motor for the horse and am about to start removing the engine from the tiller. When I was looking it over a few minutes ago, I noticed that the bottom pully just flops around like it's not bolted down, is this normal or is this another problem to deal with? I'm beginning to think that I have a cursed garden that is killing my tillers. lol. thanks, lemme know what you think.
No the bottom pulley should not flop around. It sure sounds like someone put a curse on that garden!
I have a 1975 Horse and the tines stop turning under a load you have any ideas.
Any chance you kept the recoil strater pulley from the Troy Bilt? I have a real old TB but the recoil starter had broken on the inside and one dawg is missing. I have been unable to find any replacement for the recoil starter.
No. Thanks for watching!
I’m not really sure why you would re-power, I would only Repair and I think it’s worth more with an original engine. And your original engine actually has electric start. I have two With Electric starts
To rebuild this engine would have cost twice as much as the new engine did (if I could even find all the parts - crank, rod, oversize piston/rings, valves, gaskets, ect). Also I HATE old flat head engines. You can get way more power and ease of starting from a new overhead valve engine.
Having a tiller with a battery is pointless to me when it only gets used a couple times each year, because by the next year the battery is dead. So most people aren't going to buy a new battery every year to only start and machine a couple times. Thats exactly why I got this machine on trade in, it was too hard to pull start and they were tired of buying a new battery every time they wanted to use it. I sold this machine for $850 with the new engine and sold the old engine for $60 for parts. I was happy with that (I had less then $400 in it).
@@j2buildsit Although you can get more power with a overhead valve engine the simplicity of the flat head cannot be overstated. Were it I, I would pull the piston and rod. Inspect the crankshaft journal, replace the bearings or anything broken, re-ring, and put it back together. I have seen engines with nothing more of A problem down the connecting rod bolts starting to come loose. Four hours labor, $20 in parts. As to it being a hard starting, I’ve never seen a Briggs & Stratton with a clean carburetor that was hard to start. As to the battery issue. I don’t even leave the battery in the tiller. I use a battery with the handle and use the same battery for the lawnmower. So I will normally get a minimum of two seasons/years out of a battery with A possibility of three. And what’s with these predator engines when a very easily started Honda engine really isn’t that expensive one wall through Amazon
@@MrRoverpilot repowering these is way easier then rebuilding, and besides it's a Troy Bilt Horse these things always hold their value no matter what engine is on it. The older ones especially are built like tanks and the other components will outlast any engine put on it. The average geek boy collector will want it original and shiny and will store it away in his shed and it never sees the light of day. The average person looking to use it wants it running well versus originality so therefore as he said and proved my point he still got 850 out of it which realistically is not far off of what you would pay for one thats been totally restored, maybe 1000 to 1200 at best, keep in mind only so much someone will pay for an old tiller...
Don't need to do all that measuring just measure the shaft and if they are the same size go with it.
The only thing I had to change was the bolt that held the pully on which is on the manual of the new engine.
Can you give me the model of your new engine? Got similar tiller without engine, would like to put a new one on it.
2 millimeters difference? How much is that in inches? I'm an American and don't know the metric system. Thank you
Just ask google
What size Predator would match up to a 2001 Troy Bilt Horse with a tired 8HP engine?
Should be the Predator 301cc 8hp. But you need to double check your shaft diameter.
@@j2buildsit dbl checked the shaft is 3.4. Will it matter at all that the 212 shaft is .07" longer than my oem motor?
What size predator would you have put on? I have a horse tiller like the one in this video that needs a new motor. Thanks! Enjoyed the video!
They just came out with the predator 224cc which should be plenty of power for a tiller like this. Those old briggs engines like this one were rated at 8 hp but most likely put out 7 hp or less, especially over time as they got more worn out.
The original engine on mine is 8HP. The only Predator engine that would work is the 212 cc engine which is about 6.6 HP. Would that be big enough? I’m thinking I should go with the Kohler Command Pro because it’s 9.5 HP. Just a tiny bit bigger
Keep in mind that your old "8 hp" engine was likely only actually putting out 5 to 7 hp at the most. Possibly even less if it was worn out. How they use to rate hp on engines back then was a lot different than the requirements now.
But, that being said, I would still try to put the biggest engine on there that will fit. It's always better to have too much power than not enough.
Yes, the Predator engine will work great. I have a small engine repair shop and I’ve put Predator engines on probably 7 to 8 of these old Horse tillers. I recommend the Predator 224cc Max Performance engine. I have one in the shop right now I just finished.
did u ever put the seal in the tines
Yes I did the tine seals, but they were a pain and I wasn't able to shoot a video on them. I ended up drilling two small holes in them and installing a screw. Then pulling on the screws to get the seal out.
What kind of lift do you have?
amzn.to/3m7xoW4
What did your new engine cost ?
I see 300 ! Good video
Thanks for watching!
Most rube goldbarg pulley system and motor mount ever. It works though. Tough to flip out of gear..
You should leave the battery for weight
Does that model have a PTO?
no
@@j2buildsitof course not that would have been an actual challenge
Kohler horizontal shaft engines are made in China now anyway so why not save money and use a predator engine parts are available on Amazon.
We used a Kohler because we already had one sitting around. Predators are great engines too.
@@j2buildsit I heard you say it...
It's something how people ask questions that have already been answered.
Did you loose reverse with the new engine?
No
Is starter for sale
Sorry we already sold the old engine with starter.
Absolutely the worst way to remove the engine from the Troy Bilt Horse Tiller, Remove as per the Troy Bilt Manuel, You Will Have Zero Problems!!
Please enlighten me as to how the manual says to do it.
@@j2buildsit You remove the Handle and pins that hold the engine carriage, remove engine carriage, measure and record pulley location, remove pulley, remove engine, install in reverse order, takes about half the time, all in the troy bilt owners manual.
Thanks for the info
Glad that your manual tells how to do it. Mine says NOTHING about pulling the motor.