Was totally perplexed about how to change my tiller belt until I watched your video. There are others that show a complete dismantling that took hours and specialized tools. The people of Troy NY know how to built tillers!
When you buy a brand new Troy-bilt Horse tiller like I did in 1995, it comes with a measuring rod to determine the exact tension on the belt. It works like a feeler gauge and goes in between the little wheel below the adjustment block and the face of the bracket to which the adjustment block attaches. If there is too much of a gap then you raise the block, too little and you lower the block.
Thank you for the video. Mine is squealing and who knows how old it is. Just placed my order. I appreciate you taking the time to show us how to replace it.
Thank you. This is a great quality video and you explain things so well. I had put the top pulley on backwards (putting on a predator 301 engine swap) and was able to see my mistake from your video. Thanks so much!
A few suggestions. First only use a Troybilt belt, after market belts don't hold up. Second, there's an adjustment tool that came with the tiller that allows you to set the adjusting block for proper tension. Third, you can get the manual online, it's well worth having.
If that’s the old one and going to replace it thank just cut it and take it off. Good video of taking your time and showing us how to do it without taking everything apart 👍👍
Yes. That would make it easier... if you're sure the new one is the correct part. In my case, I had to practice taking it off and on, so the video wouldn't turn out bad. Thanks for watching!
The two pulleys are of different diameters, so moving the belt from one to the other provides a different drive ratio. Thank for watching and commenting!
I enjoyed your video, very in-depth and excellent, I have the horse that also has one belt with the friction reverse,but my reason for messaging you and hope other views can give me some insight on my problem, I purchased a very old horse tiller and had sat for years in a barn after inspection I fought that i couldn’t get it to engage or move motor at all but after greasing the elevation pins it then wound engage belt tension, I think it has the original belt that come on it, because I have adjusted the belt by the cast iron tensioner and the wheels will pull until it get into dirt or travel up steep hill,, will new belt resolve this? I apologize for long explanation . Thanks
If the belt is slipping, I'd expect to hear it squeal/screech. I can't say if a new belt will resolve the problem you're having, but it sounds like it's probably time to replace it anyway! Are you sure you got all of the movement in the slide pins restored? Could it still be hanging up? Thanks for watching!
It depends on what model you have. My tiller can't have two belts on it, because the pulleys are different diameters. On this model, you change the belt from one set of pulleys to the other, to change the drive speed range. In older models, you had two belts on the pulleys because they were the same diameter, and two belts give greater drive power without slipping. I would actually like to have the type where I could use two drive belts because I get quite a bit of belt slippage tilling my dense clay soil. This is the new belt I put on it: (It's "ok" so far.) www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BO6NRNA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thank you for watching!
You can use two drive belts on it because the top and bottom pulleys are inverse of each other by design. I have the same tiller and I use both belts on mine. No slippage.
There are older models that allow the use of two belts, and I agree, they must have a more positive drive with less belt slip. However, they changed somewhere along the line, and the "double pulleys" are actually different diameters. So you get a different drive ratio depending on which set of pulleys you have the single drive belt in. You can't double the belt(s), because they turn at different speeds. Thanks for watching!
Nice Video. I’m just starting to replace my belt. I think that I already saved ten minutes of aggravation. Simply pull out your knife and cut the old belt off.
Absolutely! But I couldn't do that for filming the video. I needed to use the old belt for multiple filming takes, to get the best vids I could. Thank you watching and commenting!
@@manabouthome Understood. Perhaps in your next video explain why you are doing what your doing but cutting the belt is easier and quicker. Going to finish replacing my belt today. Thanks for the info and keep ‘em coming.
So, I finally finished the belt replacement. It wasn’t going as smooth as I thought that it would be. I stopped and looked over this situation to try and find an easier way to do the replacement. For my Model, a 1995 Horse Tiller, I found a better and least troublesome way to complete my mission. All that I did was to remove my reverse disc. The belt went into place easily and correctly. Removing the reverse disc is definitely the way to go for my model. I don’t know how it works for other Models. Thanks, fellow gardener.
@@manabouthome Thank you. Now I need to take care of a carburetor problem. I had a rope starter problem and have been starting my tiller with my electric drill. I know that it’s not the preferred way to start it up because I am sacrificing the cooling capacity. Rope problem corrected. When I do get it running, I keep adjusting the air adjustment. When I have it running great, I can till for an extended amount of time. Then when I get it started again, I have to once again fool around with mixtures. I’m thinking that there is a piece of grit that keeps moving around in the ports. I’m not sure about how to correct the problem. Number one would be to replace the carburetor but that’s around 200$. Number two would be to rebuild it or soak it for a while. Then dry it with compressed air. I really don’t like to waste time and money isn’t a problem either. Any suggestions?
A quick search on amazon for "tiller reversing disc" showed some parts and the compatible part numbers. It looks like it depends on the year it was made. Now I have to figure it out for my machine! Thanks for watching.
@@randalljarnigan5897 Yeah, this looks like a problem for me too. I need to get the serial number off my machine to see if it's listed here: www.partstree.com/search/?type=model&term=&filter%5Bmarketing_brand%5D=Troy-Bilt&filter%5Bequipment_type%5D=Tillers&msclkid=0e4cbdc5c2d41dce8f62d9e8a003beb7
I lucked out. The original owner gave me the manual along with a pile of other papers. I found the instruction sheet that came with the reverse disc and adjusting block kit from the last time they replaced it. #GW-1919. What is the model number, and/or serial number on your machine. I'd be happy to try to help you find it.
I think the older 2-speed models had two belts. Both belts would have been the same drive ratio. I wouldn't mind having two belts since that provides more drive power, without belt slippage, than one belt. My tiller is a 4-speed model. I can move the single belt to the other set of grooves and that changes the drive ratio, since they're of different diameters. I've never had the pleasure of replacing a set of double drive belts, so I can't give any advice. But if you have the manual, maybe there's something in there. Thanks for watching!
Actually, the single belt system where there are two different sized grooves on the two pulleys is a two speed arrangement. Move the belt from the forward position to the rear position to change the speed. The groove on the engine pulley with the larger diameter will give you a higher speed. So you actually have a two range, two speed machine.
@samuel glass Yeah.. 2 ranges x 2 speeds = 4 speeds. Page 24 of my manual has a Wheel Speed and Belt Range Selection Guide. 1. Slow Gear, Low Range. 2. Slow Gear, High Range. 3. Fast Gear, Low range . 4. Fast Gear, High Range. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Only one belt is correct. They look like a double sheaves. But they aren't. There are two different drive ratios, provided by two different sheave diameters on each shaft. Drive speed is adjusted by changing the belt position. Thanks for watching!
@@manabouthome must be different variations of the horse because even here on TH-cam there are videos with them with two belts and replacing two belts.
Was totally perplexed about how to change my tiller belt until I watched your video. There are others that show a complete dismantling that took hours and specialized tools. The people of Troy NY know how to built tillers!
Happy to hear it helped! Thank you for watching and commenting.
I have one of these and was ready to set fire to it after trying for an hour to get these belts on. You sir saved my tiller 😂
Ha! Happy to hear it! Thank you for watching.
Excellent instructional video. Will be checking our belts soon. This will be a great point of reference. Thanks!
You're welcome! Thank you for watching!
Absolutely great video. One of the best repair videos I’ve seen due to its great quality video and to the point instruction.
Thank you! I'm happy to hear it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
When you buy a brand new Troy-bilt Horse tiller like I did in 1995, it comes with a measuring rod to determine the exact tension on the belt. It works like a feeler gauge and goes in between the little wheel below the adjustment block and the face of the bracket to which the adjustment block attaches. If there is too much of a gap then you raise the block, too little and you lower the block.
Yes. The instructions are in the manual. Thanks for watching!
It’s good for people that knows and shows others how to do things so we can learn how to do things and come up with different ways of doing them 👍
I totally agree. Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for your great explanation and detail of this video. It is SO APPRECIATED. Have a great 2024
I'm happy to know it helped! Thank you for watching and commenting!
Thank you for the video. Mine is squealing and who knows how old it is. Just placed my order. I appreciate you taking the time to show us how to replace it.
I'm happy it helped. Thank you for watching!
Thank you. This is a great quality video and you explain things so well. I had put the top pulley on backwards (putting on a predator 301 engine swap) and was able to see my mistake from your video. Thanks so much!
You're welcome! Thank you for watching!
Mine has two belts but there were a couple helpful tips i think will help on mine as well. Gonna try it tomorrow.
Good luck! Thanks for watching.
Awesome video , thank you for sharing!!
You're welcome! Thank you for watching!
Good video, good explanation.I was given a horse tiller with a blown engine, in process of replacing it.
That's a great deal! Good luck with it.
Thank you! You're a lifesaver.
You're welcome! I'm always happy to hear it helped! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you very much you saved me ALOT of time😂❤
Happy to hear it! Thanks for watching!
A few suggestions. First only use a Troybilt belt, after market belts don't hold up. Second, there's an adjustment tool that came with the tiller that allows you to set the adjusting block for proper tension. Third, you can get the manual online, it's well worth having.
Thank you for your suggestions, and for watching the video!
How much are Troybilt belts?
If that’s the old one and going to replace it thank just cut it and take it off. Good video of taking your time and showing us how to do it without taking everything apart 👍👍
Yes. That would make it easier... if you're sure the new one is the correct part. In my case, I had to practice taking it off and on, so the video wouldn't turn out bad. Thanks for watching!
Great repair!
Thank you for watching!
Nice video dude. Super helpful
Happy to hear it helped!
well explained .Im curious why double pully and only 1 belt ??
The two pulleys are of different diameters, so moving the belt from one to the other provides a different drive ratio. Thank for watching and commenting!
I enjoyed your video, very in-depth and excellent, I have the horse that also has one belt with the friction reverse,but my reason for messaging you and hope other views can give me some insight on my problem, I purchased a very old horse tiller and had sat for years in a barn after inspection I fought that i couldn’t get it to engage or move motor at all but after greasing the elevation pins it then wound engage belt tension, I think it has the original belt that come on it, because I have adjusted the belt by the cast iron tensioner and the wheels will pull until it get into dirt or travel up steep hill,, will new belt resolve this? I apologize for long explanation . Thanks
If the belt is slipping, I'd expect to hear it squeal/screech. I can't say if a new belt will resolve the problem you're having, but it sounds like it's probably time to replace it anyway! Are you sure you got all of the movement in the slide pins restored? Could it still be hanging up? Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! So clear and helpful. Glad I watched this before dismantling things as it appeared I would have to. Thank you! 07:56AM 05/07/23
Your welcome! I'm always happy to hear when my videos are actually helpful. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Been nice to mention the other set of pulleys
I don't understand your comment. Thanks for watching!
What's the purpose of 2 double pulleys? Can you have double belts on it? What is the size of the belt you used?
It depends on what model you have. My tiller can't have two belts on it, because the pulleys are different diameters. On this model, you change the belt from one set of pulleys to the other, to change the drive speed range. In older models, you had two belts on the pulleys because they were the same diameter, and two belts give greater drive power without slipping. I would actually like to have the type where I could use two drive belts because I get quite a bit of belt slippage tilling my dense clay soil. This is the new belt I put on it: (It's "ok" so far.) www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BO6NRNA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you for watching!
You can use two drive belts on it because the top and bottom pulleys are inverse of each other by design. I have the same tiller and I use both belts on mine. No slippage.
Would it be better with two belts installed?
There are older models that allow the use of two belts, and I agree, they must have a more positive drive with less belt slip. However, they changed somewhere along the line, and the "double pulleys" are actually different diameters. So you get a different drive ratio depending on which set of pulleys you have the single drive belt in. You can't double the belt(s), because they turn at different speeds. Thanks for watching!
Do you have a part number for the belt
I added a link in the description. Thanks for watching!
Nice Video.
I’m just starting to replace my belt.
I think that I already saved ten minutes of aggravation.
Simply pull out your knife and cut the old belt off.
Absolutely! But I couldn't do that for filming the video. I needed to use the old belt for multiple filming takes, to get the best vids I could. Thank you watching and commenting!
@@manabouthome
Understood.
Perhaps in your next video explain why you are doing what your doing but cutting the belt is easier and quicker.
Going to finish replacing my belt today.
Thanks for the info and keep ‘em coming.
So, I finally finished the belt replacement.
It wasn’t going as smooth as I thought that it would be.
I stopped and looked over this situation to try and find an easier way to do the replacement.
For my Model, a 1995 Horse Tiller, I found a better and least troublesome way to complete my mission.
All that I did was to remove my reverse disc.
The belt went into place easily and correctly.
Removing the reverse disc is definitely the way to go for my model.
I don’t know how it works for other Models.
Thanks, fellow gardener.
@@jaybird6186 There's more than one way to skin a cat! Good job getting it done. Enjoy your garden...
@@manabouthome
Thank you.
Now I need to take care of a carburetor problem.
I had a rope starter problem and have been starting my tiller with my electric drill.
I know that it’s not the preferred way to start it up because I am sacrificing the cooling capacity.
Rope problem corrected.
When I do get it running, I keep adjusting the air adjustment.
When I have it running great, I can till for an extended amount of time.
Then when I get it started again, I have to once again fool around with mixtures.
I’m thinking that there is a piece of grit that keeps moving around in the ports.
I’m not sure about how to correct the problem.
Number one would be to replace the carburetor but that’s around 200$.
Number two would be to rebuild it or soak it for a while.
Then dry it with compressed air.
I really don’t like to waste time and money isn’t a problem either.
Any suggestions?
Can't see
What year is your tiller, I have one like your, but I don't know, what year is, please tell me.
Sorry, I don't know. The manual and other documents are from the mid to late 1980s.
@@manabouthome thanks anyway.
@@francisco197026 You're welcome. I'll look closely at my tiller when I get it out in the Spring... see if I can find more info. I'll let you know.
Thanks for sharing. I’m needing to replace my reverse friction drive wheel do you by chance have a part number
A quick search on amazon for "tiller reversing disc" showed some parts and the compatible part numbers. It looks like it depends on the year it was made. Now I have to figure it out for my machine! Thanks for watching.
@@manabouthome yeah mine is a 1975 and they don’t list anything that far back
@@randalljarnigan5897 Yeah, this looks like a problem for me too. I need to get the serial number off my machine to see if it's listed here: www.partstree.com/search/?type=model&term=&filter%5Bmarketing_brand%5D=Troy-Bilt&filter%5Bequipment_type%5D=Tillers&msclkid=0e4cbdc5c2d41dce8f62d9e8a003beb7
This one also seems to have a good parts lookup system: www.ereplacementparts.com/troybilt-tiller-parts-c-26780_27175.html
I lucked out. The original owner gave me the manual along with a pile of other papers. I found the instruction sheet that came with the reverse disc and adjusting block kit from the last time they replaced it. #GW-1919.
What is the model number, and/or serial number on your machine. I'd be happy to try to help you find it.
Do you know why they might have two belts? I have two belts and the one belt gets in the way of the drive belt coming off. Hmmmm
I think the older 2-speed models had two belts. Both belts would have been the same drive ratio. I wouldn't mind having two belts since that provides more drive power, without belt slippage, than one belt. My tiller is a 4-speed model. I can move the single belt to the other set of grooves and that changes the drive ratio, since they're of different diameters. I've never had the pleasure of replacing a set of double drive belts, so I can't give any advice. But if you have the manual, maybe there's something in there. Thanks for watching!
Actually, the single belt system where there are two different sized grooves on the two pulleys is a two speed arrangement. Move the belt from the forward position to the rear position to change the speed. The groove on the engine pulley with the larger diameter will give you a higher speed. So you actually have a two range, two speed machine.
@samuel glass Yeah.. 2 ranges x 2 speeds = 4 speeds. Page 24 of my manual has a Wheel Speed and Belt Range Selection Guide. 1. Slow Gear, Low Range. 2. Slow Gear, High Range. 3. Fast Gear, Low range . 4. Fast Gear, High Range. Thank you for watching and commenting.
How come you’re just running with 1 belt? It’s supposed to have two.
Only one belt is correct. They look like a double sheaves. But they aren't. There are two different drive ratios, provided by two different sheave diameters on each shaft. Drive speed is adjusted by changing the belt position. Thanks for watching!
@@manabouthome must be different variations of the horse because even here on TH-cam there are videos with them with two belts and replacing two belts.
@@Rangband1 That's interesting. My Horse isn't the oldest model by any means. They must have changed over time. Thanks for the insight!
@@Rangband1 Yes, the older Horse tillers ran 2 belts.
Mine only has 1 belt.
Only one belt installed,
Yeah. It only takes one belt. The other sheave has a different drive ratio. Thanks for watching!