Thanks for the detail on adjusting the chuck. As someone interested in machining but no experience I appreciate the extra information despite the fact that I am sure most people here already know that stuff.
For this purpose, a hollow shaft of the same section and specific composition is more resistant to the torsion forces of a band saw flywheel that receives torque, according to physics. I'm in this process actually, using a spider coupler direct from the motor to de hollow shaft, two self-aligning pillow blocks and a cast iron hub with a shrink disc. This way is much more stable, reduces the harmonics and requires no tools to mount and dismount, also it allows me to use the big motor in other machines, no need to buy several motors with their own VFD. I do not need to machine the wheel, use keys and I have been able to balance the flywheel better. Greetins from Spain.
Keith, absolutely fantastic series so far. I have only watched 1-11 but am hooked. I keep running to my lathe, mill etc to learn from what you are saying.
Keith's videos makes me regret my misspent youth. I had access to a machine shop with lathes, grinders, presses, even an electroplating facility and I did not seize that opportunity. To be fair to myself I had other issues to deal with. But when I watch Keith turn a shaft I think I could have learned that skill, or I should have. Anyway it's great to watch a skilled craftsman at work. PS I did not know you could adjust the position of the tailstock (if the machine is designed that way) but simply by watching Keith I now understand it is possible and I might be able to do it myself.
This bandsaw is going to be BETTER than new! Can't wait to see it coming back together. Love your meticulous, methodical approach; almost a form of worship and a pleasure to watch. Your presentation is also excellent - good pacing, excellent narration and well-thought-out sequences. Thanks for all your hard work Keith - it's appreciated!
My guess is the bars always started at nominal sizes. The 1/16 undersize is because that is what it took to clean the bars up to something useable. There was no cold rolled back then only hot so you couldn't get a decent round to start with.
By shop do you mean machine shop or just a general metal shop ? I had a metalwork shop - so covered a few aspects of metalwork. I learned stuff about other aspects of metalwork but not lathework - almost the other way around as it turned out I had threading experience on the lathe and the teacher didn't !
Another great video Keith. I try to indicate off a ground or machined surface wherever possible, as close as possible to the point of interest. When adjusting the tailstock I would have indicated on the shaft, where you measured the difference in diameter.
Keith, thanks for showing the indicating procedure you used. All this time (of viewing various channels), didn't know about taking half. It makes perfect sense, but the way you explained it that bell went pah ping!! on with the episode!!
The reason for 2-3/16" is they started with a 2 1/4" nominal shaft and just did a skim pass to clean-up. Since the bearings were cast in place the final dimension wasn't critical. It wasn't like they had to fit high precision roller bearings on it or anything.
That is kind of right except shafting was drawn at the steel mill then if needed sent on for further processing where the 1/16 was used. Looking in my 40 year old Ryerson Stock List book, finished bar is drawn, ground and polished (G&P) which is .000 to .002 oversize. Better stuff is turned, ground and polished TG&P where tolerances are .0005 to .004 undersize. So like you said, tight tolerances are not needed for a poured babbitt bearing. Back in the day of babbitt bar was probably only available in a hand full sizes and even numbers. The more high precision bearings then followed. It is probably pretty hard these days to find a double row spherical in 4" but 3-15/16's are on the shelf.
One more example. Why is a 2x4 not a 2x4. Back in the day it was when it came out of the sawmill but then it was run thru the planer mill. Now they saw closer to the finished planer mill dimensions. More accuracy gets more yield from the log. Same is probably true of steel bars.
The best way to re-align the tailstock is between centres. That way you are not fighting against the tension imparted by the chuck jaws. You set the part in the centres use a DTI to check along the length of the part and adjust as required, min skim and repeat as necessary. All tailstocks vary depending on the make, but some have locking mechanisms as well as adjusting screws, best to refer to the manual ( if you have one). As a rule of thumb if you see a screw on the back ( or the front) of the tailstock you may need to loosen it before using the adjusting screws and tighten it after adjustment. Good luck.
Keith, it might be helpful for those who are trying to learn, if you would mention what rpm you use on the different kinds of materials. Love your channel. I’m a machinist of 44 years.
Are you sure that the taper and the cylindrical part are the same axis? On 48 in wheel even a slight angle may cause rather big wobble. I've expected that both barrel and taper will be turned between the same centres.
It would be a better way to have done it - driving a tapered shaft in a straight chuck felt a bit odd to me. The taper's so slight, you can get away with it but again it's not ideal.
I was surprised that you put the dial indicator on the tail stock. Normally I put it on the work where I measured the taper. So if it is -0.003 at the very end, that's where I put indicator. Move the tail stock, tighten everything back up. Read the indicator, repeat until I have the right reading. Am I missing something? I am an amateur.
I was talking to the screen saying the same thing. However, I am also an amateur self taught machinist, though my 660mm x 2500mm, 3 1/2 tonne lathe is not a toy.
If you move the body of the tailstock .0015”, the point of the center should move the same amount (minus perhaps a negligible amount for flex of the tailstock ram), and therefore the end of the part would also move the same amount. Putting on the part would be “more correct” but I would bet the difference-if any-is less than you could pick up with a thousandths indicator.
On cheap small lathes the tailstock may not have anyhting to keep it perpendicular relative the the ways. If your tail sock isn't kept perpendicular to the ways as it moves, you will end up moving the stock more or less than the body of the tailstock. On this lathe the tailstock moves like a machine vice, so it stays perpendicular to the ways. So any movement in the body is transfer exactly to the work.
Happy new year Keith, wouldn't it be better to set the dial indicator at the end of the part to measure the how much the tail stock moves to take out the taper?
I wondered this, would it not be like a lever on a pivot point with more movement farther out. I guess it didn't. I had no idea that tailstocks can be fine tuned after fitting them so I learnt something.
@@alstonofalltrades3142 Tailstocks are designed to slide sideways. It is a well-known means of actually turning very long tapers - but then you have the hassle of fine tuning the tailstock so it doesn't turn tapers again ! Had I been adjusting my tailstock, I would not have put the DTI on the tailstock body in an arbitrary place like Keith did - I'd use the side if the barrel where it was a known surface. And yes, the adjustment matters at the centre supporting the work - so ideally use the end of the work or the centre itself to 'lean' (?) the DTI on as that's the bit that matters rather than the tailstock body.
Hi Keith, and happy new year. Your videos are excellent - please keep them coming. Along those lines, could you please give an update on the stoker engine. You really had to disembowel that beast and I'm very anxious to see you reassemble it into working order. Tnx.
I was surprised you didn't turn this one between centres. Would have made it a simple thing to pull out and check the fit of the taper without loosing concentricity and also easier to turn over to turn the rest of the shaft and maintain concentricity.
Good demonstration on the taper, and would be necessary for a shaft running in bearings, but for a babbit bearing, the bearing would be poured to match the shaft, so the taper is not an issue.
@@phlodel Due to wear , the tailstock would need adjusting at nearly every point along it's travel, so this particular "fine tuning" is only one part specific, not permanent.
Could it be that they bought the next size up hot rolled steel and turned down to that size? I don't know but suspect they didn't have quite the variety of stock that we are used to these days.
Hi Keith. I noticed a realignment jump when you introduced your live centre. This manifested itself in the 3 thousandth" taper which you discovered. Might not an indicator check on the centred end before machining have shown you that the tail stock was slightly out?
Looked to me as if you adjusted the tail stock the wrong way. Guess I'm missing something. Why did it move away from you when you loosened the set screw on your side?
The practice of using unusual sizing is something that continues today. It is usually called proprietary so only the company that patented it could produce parts.
Define 'Europe'. The UK didn't change completely (well, excluding distances and a few other bits) until the latter part of the 20th century. France (1795) and Germany (1872) were much earlier. It was pretty much invented under Napoleon, who had a thing for standardisation.
I don't think it is very healthy, but also not dangerous if you inhale just a little bit... Of course it depends on the ingredients of the cutting oil ...
Thanks for an entertaining video. Centering the work piece in the 4 jaw is often showed on videos. If the indicator is applied from an angle where where the tightening can be done in the measuring direction that can be done more precisely. Loosening "a little bit" seems to be more difficult. Now and then the "ketchup effect" takes place on my mini lathe.... All or nothing.... Okey, more practise.... Move the tailstock..... Move away, or not...... Haha. Surely more than one machinist has started in the wrong direction but You got right from the beginning. That holder, for the indicator, would be interesting to se more of. How to make one for a mini lathe? The test cut at time 18:40... 20 thou.... Related to the object and the lathe it's likely safe but why not take a cut of 5 or 10 thou? Due to the taper the cut will get deeper and deeper... Some bending of the axle in the middle must occur.
Re: "odd sixteenths": I heard that line shafting is almost always and odd sixteenth. We did a fair amount of line shaft work and found that to be true for us.
Is this project ever going to be finished? It's been over a year since there have been any videos on this, or the steem engine part that hasn't been finished, or the metal laigh. Are they ever going to be finished?
I wish there was a whole sentence explaining this the first time I tried to replace my bicycle pedals :-p. man one of them was so much harder to take off once i figured out i had been really tightening it.
Why wouldn't you check the run out at the other end of the shaft before machining? Are you assuming the stock workpiece is true? I'm no machinist far from it..only a thinking man who ponders, thanks.
Really should have dialed the steady rest in before center drilling! ... My math says if the shaft diameter is out .001" on the shaft the 48" Diameter band wheel is going to be out .024" ... ... if your out .005" (likely) the band wheel will be at an angle to shaft at around out an 1/8" Am I wrong?
@Mike Baxter The thing about center drilling on a lathe is that as long as your drill is rigid enough, it will drill an on-center hole even if it isn't aligned perfectly. If it is off-center some, only one flute will cut and the diameters will be oversize but the angles will be correct and on center. The tailstock bears against the angled face.
Mount the shaft on something solid like a milling machine table with the tapered end beyond the table. Install the wheel on the shaft and rotate it against the stationary shaft. keep checking runout at various points of rotation. You will have to turn the shaft and wheel together and work out a reference point to measure the runout. The runout on the 2 tapered surfaces might minimize or cancel each other out. Mark it , key it and bolt it together. No key, lock tite it.
Why doesn’t anyone use a travelling steady ? I don’t because I haven’t found one yet to fit my lathe. Don’t think I’ve ever seen one used on the main you tube videos. Abom, Rucker and Fenner etc.
Typically used to support long thin work when you are turning along most of the length and don't want deflection, not a very common need, cutting a lead screw is one job where you would probably use one.
These are known in the trade as a “follower rest”. They’re mounted on the carriage, have two jaws instead of three and are used to minimize cutting deflection on long shafts.
Back in the day, when that machine was build new, .003 variance over the length of that shaft was about as good as they could do under the pressures of the market to get machines out the door to customers. Today, we not only have the technology to easily do better, we have the time.
Unfortunately, Keith decided to not Title this restoration accurately. This most probably is because he values the "publicity" of the Diresta name over a properly searchable title for the machine. It's a J. A. Fay brand 48” band saw, probably from the 1890's. There is more details about it in very earlier videos in the series.
The more I look at these shafts on the wheels the more I think they just took the axle off a factory hand cart and chopped it in half. That would explain the left and right hand threads where there is no reason in this application..
*- This seems impressive to me. But I know nothing.* *- There has got to be some issues, right? What say you all here?* *- "How to Repair Broken Crankshaft || Rebuilding a Wrecked Crankshaft || Welding a Broken Crankshaft" ~ The Mechanic* *- **th-cam.com/video/wUB7dUjFGIM/w-d-xo.html*
You need to polish the bearing surfaces. Now you have a “small thread” that is Rubind that bearing… or you want to have clients and repouring that bearing every 3 months 😂😂
You talked of things you didn't understand. I have been grinding tools for over fifty years and I have never could understand why a standard drill point is 118 degrees . 120 degrees is only one degree difference per side. I can't see how a change 120 degrees would make that much a difference. I suppose someone thought it would .
There are many different types of of drill point designs. 135 split point, helical, 90 and 120 spot drill points and many more depending on the application. The standard that most drill gages are made to is 118 and 135 . I can understand 135 but why wouldn't they make it 120 degrees inc. 60 per side ?
@@erneststorch9844 If you have a dedicated drill grinder, or even grinding by hand, you can sharpen drills at any angle you choose. Standards are 59 and 67.5 per side but you can always make your own gauge.
Thanks for the detail on adjusting the chuck. As someone interested in machining but no experience I appreciate the extra information despite the fact that I am sure most people here already know that stuff.
For this purpose, a hollow shaft of the same section and specific composition is more resistant to the torsion forces of a band saw flywheel that receives torque, according to physics. I'm in this process actually, using a spider coupler direct from the motor to de hollow shaft, two self-aligning pillow blocks and a cast iron hub with a shrink disc. This way is much more stable, reduces the harmonics and requires no tools to mount and dismount, also it allows me to use the big motor in other machines, no need to buy several motors with their own VFD. I do not need to machine the wheel, use keys and I have been able to balance the flywheel better. Greetins from Spain.
Keith, absolutely fantastic series so far. I have only watched 1-11 but am hooked. I keep running to my lathe, mill etc to learn from what you are saying.
Thank you Keith , my shop teacher was a North American Aero machinist , 1971 , he taught us well , Downey , CA.
It is a pleasure watching and learning as you work. Thank you.
Thank you Keith, the use of your indicator on the tail stock takes a lot out of guess work of adjusting, turning, measuring, & re-adjusting. John
Always enjoy seeing these Keith!
Thanks for going over all of that in detail. I feel better about 4 jaw chucks and correcting tail stock issues.
Keith's videos makes me regret my misspent youth. I had access to a machine shop with lathes, grinders, presses, even an electroplating facility and I did not seize that opportunity. To be fair to myself I had other issues to deal with. But when I watch Keith turn a shaft I think I could have learned that skill, or I should have. Anyway it's great to watch a skilled craftsman at work.
PS I did not know you could adjust the position of the tailstock (if the machine is designed that way) but simply by watching Keith I now understand it is possible and I might be able to do it myself.
I love your video's. They make me I wish I could justify buying a lathe.
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.👍
Great stuff, thanks for showing the tail adjustment.
No polish needed. Nice!
Great video Keith, keep'um coming.
This bandsaw is going to be BETTER than new! Can't wait to see it coming back together. Love your meticulous, methodical approach; almost a form of worship and a pleasure to watch. Your presentation is also excellent - good pacing, excellent narration and well-thought-out sequences. Thanks for all your hard work Keith - it's appreciated!
My guess is the bars always started at nominal sizes. The 1/16 undersize is because that is what it took to clean the bars up to something useable. There was no cold rolled back then only hot so you couldn't get a decent round to start with.
Beat you to that.🤣🤣
@@chrisstephens6673 Great minds think alike 🙂
@@bcbloc02 or we just see what others don't. 🤔
Very interesting 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank You !
Really liking this series Keith. Thanks for the videos.
Good deal Keith! Need are kids to start watching this! Had a shop teacher who took me under his wing in the late 70's!
By shop do you mean machine shop or just a general metal shop ?
I had a metalwork shop - so covered a few aspects of metalwork. I learned stuff about other aspects of metalwork but not lathework - almost the other way around as it turned out I had threading experience on the lathe and the teacher didn't !
Another great video Keith. I try to indicate off a ground or machined surface wherever possible, as close as possible to the point of interest. When adjusting the tailstock I would have indicated on the shaft, where you measured the difference in diameter.
Absolutely - or the side of the centre or barrel end - not on the body of the tailstock.
The details are what makes the difference in a true turning.
Loved the video Keith especially aligning the tail stock I just had to do mine it was ok side to side but was a little low had to shim it.
A low (or high) tailstock is quite an oddity !
Keith, thanks for showing the indicating procedure you used. All this time (of viewing various channels), didn't know about taking half. It makes perfect sense, but the way you explained it that bell went pah ping!! on with the episode!!
Nice job 👍
The reason for 2-3/16" is they started with a 2 1/4" nominal shaft and just did a skim pass to clean-up. Since the bearings were cast in place the final dimension wasn't critical. It wasn't like they had to fit high precision roller bearings on it or anything.
.. and that made it the cheapest option
That makes perfect sense.
That is kind of right except shafting was drawn at the steel mill then if needed sent on for further processing where the 1/16 was used. Looking in my 40 year old Ryerson Stock List book, finished bar is drawn, ground and polished (G&P) which is .000 to .002 oversize. Better stuff is turned, ground and polished TG&P where tolerances are .0005 to .004 undersize. So like you said, tight tolerances are not needed for a poured babbitt bearing. Back in the day of babbitt bar was probably only available in a hand full sizes and even numbers. The more high precision bearings then followed. It is probably pretty hard these days to find a double row spherical in 4" but 3-15/16's are on the shelf.
One more example. Why is a 2x4 not a 2x4. Back in the day it was when it came out of the sawmill but then it was run thru the planer mill. Now they saw closer to the finished planer mill dimensions. More accuracy gets more yield from the log. Same is probably true of steel bars.
Well done Keith I am happy to see I am not the only one when doing long shaft work that needs to adjust the tail stock.
Perfect enough!
The best way to re-align the tailstock is between centres. That way you are not fighting against the tension imparted by the chuck jaws. You set the part in the centres use a DTI to check along the length of the part and adjust as required, min skim and repeat as necessary. All tailstocks vary depending on the make, but some have locking mechanisms as well as adjusting screws, best to refer to the manual ( if you have one). As a rule of thumb if you see a screw on the back ( or the front) of the tailstock you may need to loosen it before using the adjusting screws and tighten it after adjustment. Good luck.
Most excellent.
Keith, it might be helpful for those who are trying to learn, if you would mention what rpm you use on the different kinds of materials. Love your channel. I’m a machinist of 44 years.
Are you sure that the taper and the cylindrical part are the same axis? On 48 in wheel even a slight angle may cause rather big wobble. I've expected that both barrel and taper will be turned between the same centres.
...I"ve always thought machine parts should be done between centers...
...at least the finishing cuts should be...
@@paradiseroad6405 not always you need the most accurate result. But yes, here is the case.
It would be a better way to have done it - driving a tapered shaft in a straight chuck felt a bit odd to me. The taper's so slight, you can get away with it but again it's not ideal.
Love your videos Keith. Happy New Year and glad to see you doing well. Pet the cats, hug the family, and see you in the next video.
I was surprised that you put the dial indicator on the tail stock. Normally I put it on the work where I measured the taper. So if it is -0.003 at the very end, that's where I put indicator. Move the tail stock, tighten everything back up. Read the indicator, repeat until I have the right reading. Am I missing something? I am an amateur.
I agree would of been more accurate on the shaft
I was talking to the screen saying the same thing. However, I am also an amateur self taught machinist, though my 660mm x 2500mm, 3 1/2 tonne lathe is not a toy.
If you move the body of the tailstock .0015”, the point of the center should move the same amount (minus perhaps a negligible amount for flex of the tailstock ram), and therefore the end of the part would also move the same amount. Putting on the part would be “more correct” but I would bet the difference-if any-is less than you could pick up with a thousandths indicator.
@@JeremyMakesThings Thank You! That makes perfect sense and indicating the tailstock is easier.
On cheap small lathes the tailstock may not have anyhting to keep it perpendicular relative the the ways. If your tail sock isn't kept perpendicular to the ways as it moves, you will end up moving the stock more or less than the body of the tailstock.
On this lathe the tailstock moves like a machine vice, so it stays perpendicular to the ways. So any movement in the body is transfer exactly to the work.
Happy new year Keith, wouldn't it be better to set the dial indicator at the end of the part to measure the how much the tail stock moves to take out the taper?
I wondered this, would it not be like a lever on a pivot point with more movement farther out. I guess it didn't. I had no idea that tailstocks can be fine tuned after fitting them so I learnt something.
@@alstonofalltrades3142 Tailstocks are designed to slide sideways. It is a well-known means of actually turning very long tapers - but then you have the hassle of fine tuning the tailstock so it doesn't turn tapers again !
Had I been adjusting my tailstock, I would not have put the DTI on the tailstock body in an arbitrary place like Keith did - I'd use the side if the barrel where it was a known surface. And yes, the adjustment matters at the centre supporting the work - so ideally use the end of the work or the centre itself to 'lean' (?) the DTI on as that's the bit that matters rather than the tailstock body.
Hi Keith, and happy new year. Your videos are excellent - please keep them coming. Along those lines, could you please give an update on the stoker engine. You really had to disembowel that beast and I'm very anxious to see you reassemble it into working order. Tnx.
Hiya Keith
Jobs like these I like to rough everything down to 0.010 to 0.020 over and then do all finish cuts between centers, then everything runs true.
...yep...
Enjoyed thanks for the video.
Nice one Keith - it’s been a long since I saw someone adjust a tailstock like that.
Happy New Year Mr. Rucker to you and your family.
I was surprised you didn't turn this one between centres.
Would have made it a simple thing to pull out and check the fit of the taper without loosing concentricity and also easier to turn over to turn the rest of the shaft and maintain concentricity.
Not really, he is a machinist. We machinist measure 10 times and cut once. LOL
Perfection is a journey not a destination
Smooooooth!
You could use a follow rest.
it looks like a great shaft
Happy New year.
Good demonstration on the taper, and would be necessary for a shaft running in bearings, but for a babbit bearing, the bearing would be poured to match the shaft, so the taper is not an issue.
It presents an opportunity to fine tune the lathe.
@@phlodel Due to wear , the tailstock would need adjusting at nearly every point along it's travel, so this particular "fine tuning" is only one part specific, not permanent.
Happy New Year Keith.. great video as always..
Would a follow rest have worked in that instance?
Could it be that they bought the next size up hot rolled steel and turned down to that size? I don't know but suspect they didn't have quite the variety of stock that we are used to these days.
Keith, a bit late, but best wishes for the new year! Man you are making a luxury bandsaw for Jimmy Deresta !
Keith Happy New Year. Like always you do a nice job explaining your setup.
HAPPY NEW YEAR KEITH, PET THE CATS AND DOGS, SEE YOU NEXT TIME...
So just checking the tail stock end by eye is sufficient. Would it be practical to use a dial indicator with the steady rest?
Hi Keith. I noticed a realignment jump when you introduced your live centre. This manifested itself in the 3 thousandth" taper which you discovered. Might not an indicator check on the centred end before machining have shown you that the tail stock was slightly out?
Should have put the dial indicator on the shaft when adjusting the tail stock.
Looked to me as if you adjusted the tail stock the wrong way. Guess I'm missing something. Why did it move away from you when you loosened the set screw on your side?
Kind of like he shows dialing in a chuck, loosen then tighten back and forth till it settled on the 0.
@@markbernier8434 yes, but the screws went the other way to the chuck.
Looked that way to me too.
Usually when I'm turning a shaft i use the running steady to stop vibration
The practice of using unusual sizing is something that continues today. It is usually called proprietary so only the company that patented it could produce parts.
You may not want to give that saw up when you finish!!!
Keith does have a large bandsaw. Not quite as large but cooler.
Just a question. When did europe start using the metric system? Just thinking maybe that had something to do with the weird sizes.
Define 'Europe'. The UK didn't change completely (well, excluding distances and a few other bits) until the latter part of the 20th century. France (1795) and Germany (1872) were much earlier. It was pretty much invented under Napoleon, who had a thing for standardisation.
Is there any danger in inhaling that smoke?
I don't think it is very healthy, but also not dangerous if you inhale just a little bit...
Of course it depends on the ingredients of the cutting oil ...
Thanks for an entertaining video.
Centering the work piece in the 4 jaw is often showed on videos. If the indicator is applied from an angle where where the tightening can be done in the measuring direction that can be done more precisely.
Loosening "a little bit" seems to be more difficult. Now and then the "ketchup effect" takes place on my mini lathe.... All or nothing.... Okey, more practise....
Move the tailstock..... Move away, or not...... Haha. Surely more than one machinist has started in the wrong direction but You got right from the beginning.
That holder, for the indicator, would be interesting to se more of. How to make one for a mini lathe?
The test cut at time 18:40... 20 thou.... Related to the object and the lathe it's likely safe but why not take a cut of 5 or 10 thou? Due to the taper the cut will get deeper and deeper... Some bending of the axle in the middle must occur.
Re: "odd sixteenths": I heard that line shafting is almost always and odd sixteenth. We did a fair amount of line shaft work and found that to be true for us.
I wonder, what would you do if you get some chatter on a shaft like this, use the steady rest and split the machining ?
Wouldn't this be a part that would be ideal to turn on centers?
Is this project ever going to be finished? It's been over a year since there have been any videos on this, or the steem engine part that hasn't been finished, or the metal laigh. Are they ever going to be finished?
Should you not have put the DTI on the end of the workpiece because that is the location that needed to move away from you by 1½ thou?
Dialing in a 4 jaw chuck? Kieth must have watched Adam do it lol 😁👍
Enjoying this work. If not already mentioned, when the LH thread nut is made, maybe stamp it as such?
usually you just cut a witness groove on the edges of the nut
I wish there was a whole sentence explaining this the first time I tried to replace my bicycle pedals :-p. man one of them was so much harder to take off once i figured out i had been really tightening it.
Why wouldn't you check the run out at the other end of the shaft before machining? Are you assuming the stock workpiece is true? I'm no machinist far from it..only a thinking man who ponders, thanks.
Really should have dialed the steady rest in before center drilling! ... My math says if the shaft diameter is out .001" on the shaft the 48" Diameter band wheel is going to be out .024" ...
... if your out .005" (likely) the band wheel will be at an angle to shaft at around out an 1/8"
Am I wrong?
@Mike Baxter The thing about center drilling on a lathe is that as long as your drill is rigid enough, it will drill an on-center hole even if it isn't aligned perfectly. If it is off-center some, only one flute will cut and the diameters will be oversize but the angles will be correct and on center. The tailstock bears against the angled face.
@@donsundberg5730 I understand ... good point (no pun intended) :)
Mount the shaft on something solid like a milling machine table with the tapered end beyond the table. Install the wheel on the shaft and rotate it against the stationary shaft. keep checking runout at various points of rotation. You will have to turn the shaft and wheel together and work out a reference point to measure the runout. The runout on the 2 tapered surfaces might minimize or cancel each other out. Mark it , key it and bolt it together. No key, lock tite it.
Question. Do they make a collet held laser that would be used to center the tail stock
Why doesn’t anyone use a travelling steady ? I don’t because I haven’t found one yet to fit my lathe. Don’t think I’ve ever seen one used on the main you tube videos. Abom, Rucker and Fenner etc.
Typically used to support long thin work when you are turning along most of the length and don't want deflection, not a very common need, cutting a lead screw is one job where you would probably use one.
These are known in the trade as a “follower rest”. They’re
mounted on the carriage, have two jaws instead of three and are used to minimize cutting deflection on long shafts.
No keyway on the driving wheel?
16:50..."parallax"(?)
Looks to me like the tailstock was moved in the wrong direction....or it was thicker at the tailstock end.
Another question.
One large enjoyable project had the title "New haven planer".
This project.... Did Jimmy Diresta design and build this bandsaw?
Henry Ford liked 32nds
What is the material of the shaft?
Possible hypothesis: the standard for a foot could have been different at the time
Back in the day, when that machine was build new, .003 variance over the length of that shaft was about as good as they could do under the pressures of the market to get machines out the door to customers. Today, we not only have the technology to easily do better, we have the time.
Why is it called Jimmy Diresta?
Not "it", Jimmy is the guy Keith is building it for. Do a YT search for Jimmy's channel. He makes cool stuff.
Unfortunately, Keith decided to not Title this restoration accurately. This most probably is because he values the "publicity" of the Diresta name over a properly searchable title for the machine.
It's a J. A. Fay brand 48” band saw, probably from the 1890's. There is more details about it in very earlier videos in the series.
@@johncoops6897 "most probably is because he values the "publicity" of the Diresta name" Hahaha 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
The more I look at these shafts on the wheels the more I think they just took the axle off a factory hand cart and chopped it in half. That would explain the left and right hand threads where there is no reason in this application..
*- This seems impressive to me. But I know nothing.*
*- There has got to be some issues, right? What say you all here?*
*- "How to Repair Broken Crankshaft || Rebuilding a Wrecked Crankshaft || Welding a Broken Crankshaft" ~ The Mechanic*
*- **th-cam.com/video/wUB7dUjFGIM/w-d-xo.html*
The 16th shaft size approach was done so the manufacturers could say, "mine is bigger".
You need to polish the bearing surfaces. Now you have a “small thread” that is Rubind that bearing… or you want to have clients and repouring that bearing every 3 months 😂😂
You talked of things you didn't understand. I have been grinding tools for over fifty years and I have never could understand why a standard drill point is 118 degrees . 120 degrees is only one degree difference per side. I can't see how a change 120 degrees would make that much a
difference. I suppose someone thought it would .
The required angle depends on the material of both the drill and the workpiece and the speeds involved. There is no universal panacea.
There are many different types of of drill point designs. 135 split point, helical, 90 and 120 spot drill points and many more depending on the application. The standard that most drill
gages are made to is
118 and 135 . I can understand 135 but why wouldn't they make it 120 degrees inc. 60 per side ?
@@erneststorch9844 Google is your friend.
@@erneststorch9844 135 (.67.5 per side) is an even odder angle than 118, which is another mystery.
@@erneststorch9844 If you have a dedicated drill grinder, or even grinding by hand, you can sharpen drills at any angle you choose. Standards are 59 and 67.5 per side but you can always make your own gauge.
Invent scented cutting oil.
There are many brands of scented cutting fluids.