Really enjoy your videos. I do have a comment on this starter. I just repaired mine with the same symptoms. Try this. Pull the armature out, lightly sand the commutator with fine sand paper, clean the slots with an exacto knife, blow it out and reassemble. Then run the started continuously for 45 sec. to a minute to reseat the brushes. I think the brushes not seating correctly is the real issue here. Worked for me. By the way, a slight burnt smell is common in electric motors.
I just bought a good used 10.5 hp blower yesterday and it was exhibiting the same symptoms! If I thumped the starter with a hammer handle it would work then stop again. Thank you very much. I haven't yet took the starter off yet but screw it I'll just save myself the headache and buy a new one. Thank you for your excellent videos!
Ok, just thought I mention it. Anyways really like all these lawn and garden videos so keep them coming. Thanks again for all the time you put into them. Much appreciated.
You are a natural teacher man! Easy to listen to. Hey, quick question. I've determined I need to buy a new Tecumseh starter for my snow blower. Where do you recommend purchasing? Best online or find a local small engine repair shop?
Hi Donyboy. Thanks for your useful and easy-to-follow videos. Like the Surfintime's note below, I have taken apart a Tecumseh electric starter motor (needlessly, as it turns out), and I don't know how to reinstall the rotor and brushes. There is a white plastic plate holding the brushes, wih no removable holders. Is there a video in your questions and answers, or could you pleaase post one showing how to assemble the starter motor? Thanks very much.
My starter appears to be loosen and is causing the gear to grind. This morning, after our first huge snowfall, the starter was grinding and not working. I was able to get it to "catch" by pushing the whole unit up and towards the user-end of the machine (lucky for me), but my question is this: I am trying to tighten the starter unit and was able to tighten the torque bolts at the bottom. The starter still seems loose at the TOP end, where the "ears" from the starter go underneath the bolts in the engine itself. Can THOSE bolts be tightened, and if so, how do I access them to tighten them? Does the gas tank need to be loosened to access those top bolts in the engine to tighten them over top of the starter "ears"?
....I recently had starter problems with my 10.5 Snowking...I took the starter off, buzzed it on the bench a few times...seemed good...so I concentrated on something else being the problem...but after buying a new carburetor for my 17 year old blower, I quickly came back to The Starter. "How can I tell if its bad?" I asked my local dealer. "You can't unless you replace it with a new starter. If your blower still doesn't want to start, then its something else." he told me. For a while, Donyboy...I thought it was the flywheel. After a couple of days of fretting about that being The Cause...I figured out that if I pull on the hand starter pull cord...and it moves, then the flywheel is good....and it did. I bought a new starter off from e-bay for less than half the price the dealer was asking. HE would have had to send for it, too. So while I didn't save any Time, I did save some Money....after buying a carburetor that I didn't need. This lesson in this only cost me $135.00 US. I really think engine mechanic classes would have been better. Thanks for the video.
Thanks helped me a lot. Had a starter that "stopped working" took it apart as per video. Turns out it needed lubrication and was hard to turn. But now what, I have 4 little brush springs and only 2 hands. So install brushes, check they are the right way round (I put one of mine in backwards to had to redo the assembly), then start the end of a spring into a brush holder and rotate to "screw" into place. They will go in about half way, now you can push the remainder in. Check that they are seated properly. I just love finding this stuff out just after a snow storm!!!
That's ALWAYS when it happens! Not when it's nice and warm, and you have time to fix stuff! And yep, I start my equipment every month or two in the warm season, but I'm starting to question the value of doing so... 'cause that's NEVER when things break!!
Thanks for the very helpful video now HELP! One of the bolts that secures the starter stripped out the threads in the engine block. Im sure you have run into this before. Heli coil or ????? Please give me a pointer.
Hey Dony. Can you please help me? I have the same starter and the gears and flywheel teeth are intact. The starter gear just grinds because the rubber skirt/boot is gone missing. Where can I find one? And the part number? Please and thank you
On my old snowblower with a starter just like that, the grease dried out on the armature screw teeth that engage the gear. The starter would always spin but not always engage. I greased it up with a small amount of synthetic grease. I was definitely happy when I found out that was the only problem.
@@Rick.Albers It was a while ago, but I don't think I had that same clip on mine. I know I removed the starter from the machine, but I think those spiral grooves were either exposed or I could expose them without taking it apart, then I put light grease them and worked it in. Also, I may have use WD40. WD40 isn't a good lubricant, but it can soften grease and let it flow more. Also, you can get those clips off w/o that special tool, it's just hard. If you have the correct width flat screw driver, you can get it between the split to spread the wring, but you'll probably stab yourself alot doing it, lol. If you don't want to take it apart, maybe try some lithium or silicone spray for garage doors. use the spray straw to get it on the shaft and work it in. That might do it. You don't want it inside the motor, tho, or you could start a fire, so you want to use the least amount possible. also, if you use light aerosol lubes, let everything air out for at least 15 minutes before applying ANY electricity. I Iubed the cutters on my paper shredder once and blew the container out of it when I test ran it, lol. Those big chunky teeth can be lubed too, but there, you want dry lube for very thin layer of very heavy grease. Heck, now that I mention it, you could just try dry moly grease on everything to be safe. It won't work as well, but it might be enough. If you can tell, I tend to overthink the grease thing a bit. It's normal for me to use different types of grease on the same device depending on the role when maybe that isn't necessary. your mileage may vary, this is just how I do things.
@@Rick.Albers Good to hear. My memory was pretty faint from back when I did that, lol. The real test will be on the cold days. In my case, it would only fail on really cold days, so I made a note and lubed it one summer so that I wouldn't have to do it the winter.
Hello Donyboy I was wondering if it is possible to just replace the rubber cover that covers the push button on an electric starter for a Murray snow blower? The electric starter still works but the red cover for the switch some how tore off.
donyboy36 Can you explain the wiring inside the push start button on the wiring>? When I plug my extention cord into my snowblower, it turns over by itself,when I press it, it turns off the electric start.
I think my starter is OK. Last year on the first snowfall I went out to start it. The starter would crank the engine but it wouldn't fire at all. It's around ten years old. I cranked it way too long and it broke the teeth off the starter gear but it would still spin. I'm in the middle of repairing it. I bought a new starter gear and also a new flywheel since it didn't look all that good after last year's fiasco. Cleaned the carb really well. Am now putting it back together.
Excellent videos and instructions. I have the same starter as in your video. My starter makes grinding noise when I push the start button. I removed the starter per your instructions and checked the brushes, gear etc and they are in good condition. I tested the starter on the bench and it starts fine...good spped. I put the starter back and it still makes the grinding noise and snow blower does not start. Is there any way to check or test the torque of the starter. Not sure what the grinding noise is what else can I check.
donyboy73 Thanks for the reply. Smells fine and the winding looks clean. Tested the unit on the bench again. The gear extends and retracts fine when powered,
HI - great instructional - I have the same motor but the housing rings have sheered off and I only want to replace housing. Since I can't find a housing only, I was thinking I'd find someone to weld a piece on to it. Can I take the housing off without totally dismantling the motor?
donyboy73 No I meant on the starter itself. The outer housing has four very cheesy mounting brackets, the top two of which have sheered. The motor works fine but there's no way to keep it mounted on the engine frame. I don't think I want to take the whole thing apart because I dont have the tools you show here...
Harry Taylor Just saw your post. These motors are known to have those ears break off. I had 2 that did that. If you try to weld the ears back on the heat from the welding will melt the stator wiring and plastic covering the wiring inside. There is a trick. Take the motor completely apart, put the housing in a pan of water with just the area to be welded sticking out of the water, have as much in the water as possible. Weld the broken ears back on, or make up something new, doing one at a time. this stops the wiring from getting hot. After, let the motor housing (stator) dry out completely..... I left it over night in a warm place. reassemble. Worked for me
Excellent advice. I actually lucked out with the local repair shop. He had the same starter with a burned out wiring but ears intact. Presto switcheroo problem solved.
In order to do a good job of drying the motor out completely the motor should come apart. Often when a motor burns up it is the wiring in the stator that burns up, not always the armature, in this case the (housing) is no good. gotta be careful. If you have a welder you could try the welding on the old housing just to see how it works. Glad to see it worked out for U
Tried to start my Tecumseh 10.5hp snow blower (LH358SA/159502Z) on a cold Manitoba day and after a few engagements with the electric start it just started spinning freely. Pulled it out and thanks to your video I knew to look for the plastic cap which was torn off and the steel collar on end of shaft was shattered and in pieces inside the casing. My local supplier says I can only buy the entire starter? Is that your experience? It's such a simple matter! You are running a fantastic channel, thank so much for your contribution to YT.
I have a starter switch with a broken prong. Can I take the switch apart and replace prong part or do I need a new switch / starter.It is a Tecumseh motor on a Husqvarna blower. Great job with Videos!!!
I just removed my tecumseh starter after watching your videos and i think i just ordered the wrong one a 33329D the motor is actually a 37000 will the one i got work , they all look the same. love your stuff wish i had found it sooner,Ron
Hi Don, That Tecumseh # 670346 looks like a time saver. Although I take starters apart to repair or salvage for parts it is not an everyday process for me. How much does it go for? Do you sell it?
Really enjoy your videos. I do have a comment on this starter. I just repaired mine with the same symptoms. Try this. Pull the armature out, lightly sand the commutator with fine sand paper, clean the slots with an exacto knife, blow it out and reassemble. Then run the started continuously for 45 sec. to a minute to reseat the brushes. I think the brushes not seating correctly is the real issue here. Worked for me. By the way, a slight burnt smell is common in electric motors.
I worked for a big outfit doing work instructions...by far the best I've ever seen documented..thanks many.
I just bought a good used 10.5 hp blower yesterday and it was exhibiting the same symptoms! If I thumped the starter with a hammer handle it would work then stop again. Thank you very much. I haven't yet took the starter off yet but screw it I'll just save myself the headache and buy a new one. Thank you for your excellent videos!
Ok, just thought I mention it. Anyways really like all these lawn and garden videos so keep them coming. Thanks again for all the time you put into them. Much appreciated.
Tecumseh sno-King. Good video, that's a handy tool for the snap ring, those are tricky.
Thanks for the nifty video. You helped me learn something today!!
You are a natural teacher man! Easy to listen to. Hey, quick question. I've determined I need to buy a new Tecumseh starter for my snow blower. Where do you recommend purchasing? Best online or find a local small engine repair shop?
Hi Donyboy. Thanks for your useful and easy-to-follow videos. Like the Surfintime's note below, I have taken apart a Tecumseh electric starter motor (needlessly, as it turns out), and I don't know how to reinstall the rotor and brushes. There is a white plastic plate holding the brushes, wih no removable holders. Is there a video in your questions and answers, or could you pleaase post one showing how to assemble the starter motor? Thanks very much.
My starter appears to be loosen and is causing the gear to grind. This morning, after our first huge snowfall, the starter was grinding and not working. I was able to get it to "catch" by pushing the whole unit up and towards the user-end of the machine (lucky for me), but my question is this: I am trying to tighten the starter unit and was able to tighten the torque bolts at the bottom. The starter still seems loose at the TOP end, where the "ears" from the starter go underneath the bolts in the engine itself. Can THOSE bolts be tightened, and if so, how do I access them to tighten them? Does the gas tank need to be loosened to access those top bolts in the engine to tighten them over top of the starter "ears"?
....I recently had starter problems with my 10.5 Snowking...I took the starter off, buzzed it on the bench a few times...seemed good...so I concentrated on something else being the problem...but after buying a new carburetor for my 17 year old blower, I quickly came back to The Starter.
"How can I tell if its bad?" I asked my local dealer.
"You can't unless you replace it with a new starter. If your blower still doesn't want to start, then its something else." he told me.
For a while, Donyboy...I thought it was the flywheel. After a couple of days of fretting about that being The Cause...I figured out that if I pull on the hand starter pull cord...and it moves, then the flywheel is good....and it did.
I bought a new starter off from e-bay for less than half the price the dealer was asking. HE would have had to send for it, too. So while I didn't save any Time, I did save some Money....after buying a carburetor that I didn't need.
This lesson in this only cost me $135.00 US.
I really think engine mechanic classes would have been better.
Thanks for the video.
Is the cap over the shaft tip able to rotate? Seemed pretty daring holding the gear shaft while testing, gloves notwithstanding
do you what kind of ring gears would the snowblower starter engage with? or the pressure angle? could someone give me that information ?
@hebert4230 these are only 120v, you can get 12 volt starters though
Very good video, however when I took mine apart some of the brushes flew. Do you you have a wiring schematic or diagram. Thanks
Thanks helped me a lot. Had a starter that "stopped working" took it apart as per video. Turns out it needed lubrication and was hard to turn. But now what, I have 4 little brush springs and only 2 hands. So install brushes, check they are the right way round (I put one of mine in backwards to had to redo the assembly), then start the end of a spring into a brush holder and rotate to "screw" into place. They will go in about half way, now you can push the remainder in. Check that they are seated properly. I just love finding this stuff out just after a snow storm!!!
That's ALWAYS when it happens! Not when it's nice and warm, and you have time to fix stuff!
And yep, I start my equipment every month or two in the warm season, but I'm starting to question the value of doing so... 'cause that's NEVER when things break!!
Thanks for the very helpful video now HELP! One of the bolts that secures the starter stripped out the threads in the engine block. Im sure you have run into this before. Heli coil or ????? Please give me a pointer.
ld like to thank you for all your help and dam good comments and useable facts
l Seriously appreciate all your assistance
Hey Dony. Can you please help me? I have the same starter and the gears and flywheel teeth are intact. The starter gear just grinds because the rubber skirt/boot is gone missing. Where can I find one? And the part number? Please and thank you
Hi Donnie I need that long case bolt on my snowblower it fell off do you know the thread type and length of the bolt
I have the same starter, it spins fine, but doesn't engage enough to turn the engine over. What could be the issue?
worn out shaft where the gear slides up and down most likely
where do u get those split ring removal tool ????
On my old snowblower with a starter just like that, the grease dried out on the armature screw teeth that engage the gear. The starter would always spin but not always engage. I greased it up with a small amount of synthetic grease.
I was definitely happy when I found out that was the only problem.
That is exactly what mine is doing. Can I ask how exactly you greased it?
@@Rick.Albers It was a while ago, but I don't think I had that same clip on mine. I know I removed the starter from the machine, but I think those spiral grooves were either exposed or I could expose them without taking it apart, then I put light grease them and worked it in. Also, I may have use WD40. WD40 isn't a good lubricant, but it can soften grease and let it flow more. Also, you can get those clips off w/o that special tool, it's just hard. If you have the correct width flat screw driver, you can get it between the split to spread the wring, but you'll probably stab yourself alot doing it, lol.
If you don't want to take it apart, maybe try some lithium or silicone spray for garage doors. use the spray straw to get it on the shaft and work it in. That might do it.
You don't want it inside the motor, tho, or you could start a fire, so you want to use the least amount possible.
also, if you use light aerosol lubes, let everything air out for at least 15 minutes before applying ANY electricity. I Iubed the cutters on my paper shredder once and blew the container out of it when I test ran it, lol.
Those big chunky teeth can be lubed too, but there, you want dry lube for very thin layer of very heavy grease.
Heck, now that I mention it, you could just try dry moly grease on everything to be safe. It won't work as well, but it might be enough.
If you can tell, I tend to overthink the grease thing a bit. It's normal for me to use different types of grease on the same device depending on the role when maybe that isn't necessary.
your mileage may vary, this is just how I do things.
@@l337pwnage Thank you sir! I followed your advice and worked perfectly.
@@Rick.Albers Good to hear. My memory was pretty faint from back when I did that, lol.
The real test will be on the cold days. In my case, it would only fail on really cold days, so I made a note and lubed it one summer so that I wouldn't have to do it the winter.
Hello Donyboy I was wondering if it is possible to just replace the rubber cover that covers the push button on an electric starter for a Murray snow blower? The electric starter still works but the red cover for the switch some how tore off.
Hi , i have a question about the brushes, they have numbers, when you put it back together, does it have to match the number on the black cover ?
Is there a name for that tool.. I can’t find it.
donyboy36 Can you explain the wiring inside the push start button on the wiring>? When I plug my extention cord into my snowblower, it turns over by itself,when I press it, it turns off the electric start.
I think my starter is OK. Last year on the first snowfall I went out to start it. The starter would crank the engine but it wouldn't fire at all. It's around ten years old. I cranked it way too long and it broke the teeth off the starter gear but it would still spin. I'm in the middle of repairing it. I bought a new starter gear and also a new flywheel since it didn't look all that good after last year's fiasco. Cleaned the carb really well. Am now putting it back together.
Excellent videos and instructions. I have the same starter as in your video. My starter makes grinding noise when I push the start button. I removed the starter per your instructions and checked the brushes, gear etc and they are in good condition. I tested the starter on the bench and it starts fine...good spped. I put the starter back and it still makes the grinding noise and snow blower does not start. Is there any way to check or test the torque of the starter. Not sure what the grinding noise is what else can I check.
if it smells burnt inside then it not producing enough power
donyboy73 Thanks for the reply. Smells fine and the winding looks clean. Tested the unit on the bench again. The gear extends and retracts fine when powered,
I have a 10HP Recoil Start Tecumseh! It appears it can be Converted to an Electric Starter is that Possiable? Thank You so Much! In a Bind
Donyboy are the starter drive gears different sizes on newer 10 hp Tecumseh blowers than older 10 hp Tecumseh motors.
yes they are
HI - great instructional - I have the same motor but the housing rings have sheered off and I only want to replace housing. Since I can't find a housing only, I was thinking I'd find someone to weld a piece on to it. Can I take the housing off without totally dismantling the motor?
on the flywheel you mean?
donyboy73
No I meant on the starter itself. The outer housing has four very cheesy mounting brackets, the top two of which have sheered. The motor works fine but there's no way to keep it mounted on the engine frame. I don't think I want to take the whole thing apart because I dont have the tools you show here...
Harry Taylor Just saw your post. These motors are known to have those ears break off. I had 2 that did that. If you try to weld the ears back on the heat from the welding will melt the stator wiring and plastic covering the wiring inside. There is a trick. Take the motor completely apart, put the housing in a pan of water with just the area to be welded sticking out of the water, have as much in the water as possible. Weld the broken ears back on, or make up something new, doing one at a time. this stops the wiring from getting hot. After, let the motor housing (stator) dry out completely..... I left it over night in a warm place. reassemble. Worked for me
Excellent advice. I actually lucked out with the local repair shop. He had the same starter with a burned out wiring but ears intact. Presto switcheroo problem solved.
In order to do a good job of drying the motor out completely the motor should come apart. Often when a motor burns up it is the wiring in the stator that burns up, not always the armature, in this case the (housing) is no good. gotta be careful. If you have a welder you could try the welding on the old housing just to see how it works. Glad to see it worked out for U
Tried to start my Tecumseh 10.5hp snow blower (LH358SA/159502Z) on a cold Manitoba day and after a few engagements with the electric start it just started spinning freely. Pulled it out and thanks to your video I knew to look for the plastic cap which was torn off and the steel collar on end of shaft was shattered and in pieces inside the casing. My local supplier says I can only buy the entire starter? Is that your experience? It's such a simple matter! You are running a fantastic channel, thank so much for your contribution to YT.
the gear only is available for Tecumseh starters
Thanks dony, great to get it straight from the horses mouth so to speak! What a winter eh?!
I have a starter switch with a broken prong. Can I take the switch apart and replace prong part or do I need a new switch / starter.It is a Tecumseh motor on a Husqvarna blower. Great job with Videos!!!
I just removed my tecumseh starter after watching your videos and i think i just ordered the wrong one a 33329D the motor is actually a 37000 will the one i got work , they all look the same. love your stuff wish i had found it sooner,Ron
not sure, you can maybe return it
Did it fit?
Hi Don,
That Tecumseh # 670346 looks like a time saver. Although I take starters apart to repair or salvage for parts it is not an everyday process for me. How much does it go for? Do you sell it?
i have already tried that. thanks anyway.
the burnt smell is a bit more than normal.
yes you can add a starter on most of them
can you/I get new brushes?
@hiwattmikey could u make a vid on that or send me some pics please?
if it works don't worry about it
You should make a video on how to take apart the push button starter switch.
a chisel at the seam will pop it apart. I opened mine up and would love to find a source for the actual switch
Save those copper windings, copper is not cheap
Don: Do you have video of how to repair a loose starter on the block of a Tecumseh engine, where the bolt hole are wallered out! Thanks Mark R.
Thank you.
GREETINGS
Can you convert a 12v tecumseh starter to 120v ?
quite possibly if the starter fits
thanks very interesting.
i keep the motors just to pull the copper windings off for scrap metal
Wish you would have isolated the problem and better yet fix it