Fellow Canadian here ! Great build & craftsmanship , reminds me of things my father would build . He built his own garden tractor rota tiller, but it was not near as nice as yours
This is very well done.My bud and i built a 2 wheel drive rig from a 2 1/2 ton truck.It was far simpler with a 455 olds turning an automatic trans and then a 4 sp.behind that for low low gears.Slid the rear end forward within 3 ft. from the cab an solid mounted it there.Had 4 ft. chevron pat. tires on back an 20 in basics on front.PTO driven 20.000 lbs winch on back and dozer blade on front.But this is a work of skill my friend.Youve put some serious thought into this sir.Bravo.
The rear pivoting axle idea came from looking at large front end loaders. The 20:1 gear ratio is too low for most uses, I had to install a brake on the input shaft of the transfer case because in low range the wheel brakes wouldn't stop the tractor. I made a frame that I attached to the rear axle that gave me a mounting place for the ball joints. I think CV. joints from any larger front wheel drive car would be strong enough.
Incredible. People like you just amaze me. Do you have an engineering degree? Not only is it very functional but is beautifully finished. You must be very proud. I'm a city slicker who enjoys restoring antique tractors, but never could do what you have done. Very, Very nice.
@spartaeus The articulating joint is made using front wheel spindles and hubs from an older full size car.. The spindle shafts are welded to 1/2 inch steel plates on one side of the hinge and the wheel hubs are bolted to 1/2 inch plate on the other. There are 2 tapered roller bearings in each of the 2 hubs. I did use 1 ton truck ball joints to mount the rear axle, the axle mounting allows it to pivot side to side.
Thanks, One thing that I would do differently would be to use constant velocity joints through the hinge. Single cardan joints work well enough up to a point, I have the angle split between 2 universal joints but I could have made the tractor turn sharper if I had used CV. joints.
This is one of the most successful home built articulated tractor designs being displayed. The pivoting rear axle seems to be the key in allowing simplicity in the pivot and transmitting power to the rear through the transfer case. I suppose the 20:1 gives you very low speeds and lots of pull. So many questions... How did you use the ball joints on the rear to transmit the thrust, did you have the wheel spacers rolled, how does one find CV joints large enough, most of the other I can figure.
@derekbroerse They are 16.5 16.1 Firestone Power Implement tires, they're about 41 inches tall.The wheels are 16 inch Ford split rims. I cut off the inner 2 inches of the rims and welded in a spacer to make the rims 14 inches wide instead of 6. Widening the rims all to the inside kept the tractor narrower without having to narrow the axles.
@sportster1200 Thank s for your comments! When one axle is turned around, the front axle pinion gear ends up on the other side of the crown gear compared to the rear. This makes both axles drive in the same direction with a common drive shaft rotation.
Wow, FANTASTIC job on getting this thing all together as well as finishing it so well. Do you have your build pics posted somewhere so that those you've inspired could spend more time studying what's happening in them? At the very least, could you tell me what you used for the articulating joints? I've been trying to think of how that'd work and what parts I could salvage off a junker '47 Jeep my dad's got. Thanks.
@bacus100 articulated tractors generally "pivot" (referring to torsional movement not steering) in the center of the frame halves, if at all. Front end loaders sometimes have springs to allow the rear axle to move. You replied to me and not Benjamin btw ;p
@stubblejumper11 I used 2 truck axles and just faced them towards each other, neither axle is flipped. With the pinions facing each other and a common drive shaft rotation one differential functions as though its in reverse.
Nice Tractor. Did you just run a standard 4x4 truck transfer case in reverse (front axle output for motor power input, output power goes to through-shaft) or did you have to purchase a special one? How well does it articulate, if at all?
Looks like the articulating joint uses ball joints. Im curious as to what vehicle the ball joints are from that you used?. I went to the Hamm equipment website. The ball joints they use on there articulating machinery look pretty hefty.
Glad I found this, and thank you for posting. Been thinking of building a similar machine, but using semi truck axles geared at 6.50:1 with 24 inch rims since ag tires can easily be had for them. I will probably run a ford 300-6 to keep it narrow though, I have a loader i want to put on it along with a detachable backhoe for the back. If you could do it again, what would you change?
I agree with using a different size tire, the 16.1 x 16.5 power implement tires I used are twice the price of a 20 or 24 inch Ag tire but I was able to use the stock 16 inch rims and widen them by 8 inches, I added the 8 inches all to the inside so it didn't make the track any wider then the axle. For snow plowing I think a narrower tire would work better, the wide tire tends to climb on top of a pre plowed bank. The 300 six would be a good engine choice but I don't think it would be much narrower, what do you plan on using for gear reduction, I don.t think 6.50:1 would be enough with a 46 to 50 inch tall tire. My tires are 41 inches tall and transfer case I used is 5:1 in high range + the 3.73 axles = 18.65:1 plus the automatic transmission gear reduction. I think trying to use CV. joints through the articulating joint instead of a cross type would be a benefit, even though the angles are split between 2 joints cross type joints limit how sharp the articulating joint can turn.
benjaminwayneb the tires that I have been looking at are around 43 inches, but can be had smaller for more money. I planned on using an automatic similar to you. What's up in the air the most right now is what I can find for a transfer case. Good to know about the cv joints, I have a bunch of double cardans that could get me started.
@benjaminwayneb what model of combine is that transfer case from, I have been thinking of doing something similar, except with the engine in the rear and a 3pt on the front directly in front of the cab. Possibly with a 540 pto if I could figure out how to drive it
Beautiful , absolutely beautiful, would love to see more shots of it up close and personal! Fantastic workmanship! I'm also in Canada, plan to start on mine this winter. What do you think it weighs? Top speed? I think I've watched this video 100 times since you uploaded it way back when, still as enjoyable as the first time I watched it!
Thank you for the comments! I think the tractor weighs around 5000 lbs. In high gear 2000 rpm. equalls about 10 mph., it has more gear reduction then needed and a higher speed would be nice. The transfer case is 5:1 in high range and 20:1 in low range.
@@benjaminwayneb What is the transfer case from? I plan to use a 350 chevy with a 4spd automatic and make my own transfer case. Not sure what ratio to go with. I think I'd like a top speed of 20mph.
@@benjaminwayneb Thank you sir for taking the time to answer my questions! May I ask for some more specs please. From the very front to the articulating joint, how long is it, and from the articulating joint to the very rear? Also, how much room is there in front of the engine under the hood? Would love to see inside the cab too. Thanks again!
Fellow Canadian here ! Great build & craftsmanship , reminds me of things my father would build . He built his own garden tractor rota tiller, but it was not near as nice as yours
This is very well done.My bud and i built a 2 wheel drive rig from a 2 1/2 ton truck.It was far simpler with a 455 olds turning an automatic trans and then a 4 sp.behind that for low low gears.Slid the rear end forward within 3 ft. from the cab an solid mounted it there.Had 4 ft. chevron pat. tires on back an 20 in basics on front.PTO driven 20.000 lbs winch on back and dozer blade on front.But this is a work of skill my friend.Youve put some serious thought into this sir.Bravo.
@NVMDSTEvil The transfer case is from an old combine. It has 2 forward ranges and a reverse, high range has a gear ratio of 5:1 and low is 20:1.
Congrats on an amazing build. It looks like an incredibly capable unit and is very nicely finished.
The rear pivoting axle idea came from looking at large front end loaders. The 20:1 gear ratio is too low for most uses, I had to install a brake on the input shaft of the transfer case because in low range the wheel brakes wouldn't stop the tractor. I made a frame that I attached to the rear axle that gave me a mounting place for the ball joints. I think CV. joints from any larger front wheel drive car would be strong enough.
I would love to build a mini size of this...
Splendid, simply splendid!
Incredible. People like you just amaze me. Do you have an engineering degree? Not only is it very functional but is beautifully finished. You must be very proud. I'm a city slicker who enjoys restoring antique tractors, but never could do what you have done. Very, Very nice.
@spartaeus
The articulating joint is made using front wheel spindles and hubs from an older full size car.. The spindle shafts are welded to 1/2 inch steel plates on one side of the hinge and the wheel hubs are bolted to 1/2 inch plate on the other. There are 2 tapered roller bearings in each of the 2 hubs. I did use 1 ton truck ball joints to mount the rear axle, the axle mounting allows it to pivot side to side.
Thanks, One thing that I would do differently would be to use constant velocity joints through the hinge. Single cardan joints work well enough up to a point, I have the angle split between 2 universal joints but I could have made the tractor turn sharper if I had used CV. joints.
WOW. I am really impressed with this home build.
This is one of the most successful home built articulated tractor designs being displayed. The pivoting rear axle seems to be the key in allowing simplicity in the pivot and transmitting power to the rear through the transfer case. I suppose the 20:1 gives you very low speeds and lots of pull. So many questions... How did you use the ball joints on the rear to transmit the thrust, did you have the wheel spacers rolled, how does one find CV joints large enough, most of the other I can figure.
@derekbroerse They are 16.5 16.1 Firestone Power Implement tires, they're about 41 inches tall.The wheels are 16 inch Ford split rims. I cut off the inner 2 inches of the rims and welded in a spacer to make the rims 14 inches wide instead of 6. Widening the rims all to the inside kept the tractor narrower without having to narrow the axles.
dear sir you have mad Fin skills i love that thing !!!!!!!
Excellent build. Looks the buisiness! I'm looking for another project and this might just be the ticket.
@sportster1200 Thank s for your comments! When one axle is turned around, the front axle pinion gear ends up on the other side of the crown gear compared to the rear. This makes both axles drive in the same direction with a common drive shaft rotation.
Wow, FANTASTIC job on getting this thing all together as well as finishing it so well. Do you have your build pics posted somewhere so that those you've inspired could spend more time studying what's happening in them? At the very least, could you tell me what you used for the articulating joints? I've been trying to think of how that'd work and what parts I could salvage off a junker '47 Jeep my dad's got. Thanks.
@bacus100 articulated tractors generally "pivot" (referring to torsional movement not steering) in the center of the frame halves, if at all. Front end loaders sometimes have springs to allow the rear axle to move. You replied to me and not Benjamin btw ;p
@stubblejumper11 I used 2 truck axles and just faced them towards each other, neither axle is flipped. With the pinions facing each other and a common drive shaft rotation one differential functions as though its in reverse.
@RustyCarnahan The axles are Dana 60's with a 3.73:1 ratio.
Great build pics, Just wondering, what are you running for axels in that machine?
Nice Tractor. Did you just run a standard 4x4 truck transfer case in reverse (front axle output for motor power input, output power goes to through-shaft) or did you have to purchase a special one?
How well does it articulate, if at all?
Looks like the articulating joint uses ball joints. Im curious as to what vehicle the ball joints are from that you used?. I went to the Hamm equipment website. The ball joints they use on there articulating machinery look pretty hefty.
Glad I found this, and thank you for posting. Been thinking of building a similar machine, but using semi truck axles geared at 6.50:1 with 24 inch rims since ag tires can easily be had for them. I will probably run a ford 300-6 to keep it narrow though, I have a loader i want to put on it along with a detachable backhoe for the back.
If you could do it again, what would you change?
I agree with using a different size tire, the 16.1 x 16.5 power implement tires I used are twice the price of a 20 or 24 inch Ag tire but I was able to use the stock 16 inch rims and widen them by 8 inches, I added the 8 inches all to the inside so it didn't make the track any wider then the axle. For snow plowing I think a narrower tire would work better, the wide tire tends to climb on top of a pre plowed bank. The 300 six would be a good engine choice but I don't think it would be much narrower, what do you plan on using for gear reduction, I don.t think 6.50:1 would be enough with a 46 to 50 inch tall tire. My tires are 41 inches tall and transfer case I used is 5:1 in high range + the 3.73 axles = 18.65:1 plus the automatic transmission gear reduction. I think trying to use CV. joints through the articulating joint instead of a cross type would be a benefit, even though the angles are split between 2 joints cross type joints limit how sharp the articulating joint can turn.
benjaminwayneb the tires that I have been looking at are around 43 inches, but can be had smaller for more money. I planned on using an automatic similar to you. What's up in the air the most right now is what I can find for a transfer case. Good to know about the cv joints, I have a bunch of double cardans that could get me started.
The tractor has Dana 60 axles, they are common axles in 3/4 and 1 ton trucks.
very nice bild welld done keep up the good work howmeny year did it take you?
@ddssdickday Thank you for your comments! I'm not an engineer, I'm an automotive tech.
The frame is homemade, built with 4X6 1/2inch angle iron.
@benjaminwayneb Thanks. What make/model did it come from to give me a reference to start from? :)
@benjaminwayneb what model of combine is that transfer case from, I have been thinking of doing something similar, except with the engine in the rear and a 3pt on the front directly in front of the cab. Possibly with a 540 pto if I could figure out how to drive it
@mog5858
It took most of one winter to build. I can't even guess at the number of hours, I never kept track.
May I ask how wide the frame is please?
What size are those tires? They look like factory 16" Dodge truck wheels.
Beautiful , absolutely beautiful, would love to see more shots of it up close and personal! Fantastic workmanship! I'm also in Canada, plan to start on mine this winter. What do you think it weighs? Top speed? I think I've watched this video 100 times since you uploaded it way back when, still as enjoyable as the first time I watched it!
Thank you for the comments! I think the tractor weighs around 5000 lbs. In high gear 2000 rpm. equalls about 10 mph., it has more gear reduction then needed and a higher speed would be nice. The transfer case is 5:1 in high range and 20:1 in low range.
@@benjaminwayneb What is the transfer case from? I plan to use a 350 chevy with a 4spd automatic and make my own transfer case. Not sure what ratio to go with. I think I'd like a top speed of 20mph.
@@katskratchkustumz The transfer case is from a very old combine, It has a low range, a high range and a reverse.
@@benjaminwayneb Thank you sir for taking the time to answer my questions! May I ask for some more specs please. From the very front to the articulating joint, how long is it, and from the articulating joint to the very rear? Also, how much room is there in front of the engine under the hood? Would love to see inside the cab too. Thanks again!
a best 👍
i was wondering if you have a build sheet im trying to build something like what you did but im adding a winch for skidding logs
What brand and model axles did you use?
buddy is cool
ralph phipps Thanks, unfortunately Buddy passed away a few weeks ago.
are there any plans for this wonderful machine
+Charles Harris Sorry, no plans exist.
by chance did you make a build video
+Charles Harris No build video, just this video with some stills.
Sorry, I don't have a build sheet.