😂....I try to cover all bases... (I titled the video "Swing Arm" options) ........I'm just happy you can follow along with my Northern Irish accent.... ☺..
Hi...,thank you for following along and those kind comments. Regarding the rear paddock stand/bobbins etc......,it is a bit of a pain since the bobbin position is below the brace.. That locates them VERY low for a conventional rear paddock stand and requires quite a bit of effort to lever the bike up onto the stand..!! I have just recently bought yet another rear stand which will be just specifically for this bike... I intend to cut the arms down to lower the "lifters" that hopefully will make hoisting the bike onto the paddock stand a much easier affair..!! Oh and also as you are probably aware the welded "bosses" underneath the brace that allow you to screw bobbins into are not welded symmetrical (left versus right) One is welded more "inboard" than the other and requires different length spacers to position the bobbins evenly so each will clear the outside face of the swing arm for the engagement hook of any paddock stand.. I think I cover all of this in part 3 of the swing arm install in this series on my Channel here....th-cam.com/video/MAVPSd0PZs0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4hX6sfAKLwMjg_6l BG.
Good choice!.. Yes I love my OVER 10...,its staying on my 05 bike. The modified/braced DAEG one will be perfect for my 01...(one of only Two.,so it's pretty unique. 👍)
Oh the knowledge and talent ! .Can i ask where that carbon swing arm protector can be got? .Ive been looking for the longest time and no luck for something similar
Thank you for your kind comments and support.. Regarding the Carbon Fiber under swingarm piece.....,here it is..japan.webike.net/products/9476377.html God bless BG.
I think the 1200's swinging arm looks great... maybe down the line I'll get a after market arm.. a quick question I think you mentioned you have a Black Widow exhaust and was wondering if it covers access to the oil filter 🤔🤔🤔
Yes I have a Black Widow for this 01 and a Kerker on my 05....,they all cover access to the oil filter plate....,however its only a 2~3 minute job to take the exhaust can and mid~link pipe off....(one bolt and two springs..) Not a problem at all...,and I do this every time rather than trying to undo the plate and have oil spilling out all around its circumference onto the exhaust...,which is always going to be a total mess. Better to put your bike on a rear paddock stand then spend a couple of minutes popping off the can and mid~link pipe....then you can have Full access and none of the mess.. BG
That's great Brian.. I'll get myself a Black Widow.. I got a SP Engineering Can .. I guess it will fit the Widow seeing it fitted the original header.. lol thanks again 👍
@@wexxexbestno sorry....,maybe when I retired and have the time .......,however with my current day job I do 11 hour + days Monday~Friday so have only got Sat and Sun for myself.,so my "spare time" is very limited and precious... Thanks for asking though.. God bless BG.
She. You say upgrading the engine , what is it your doing ? And is there any cool upgrades for more power/speed/ acceleration, I’ve heard you can change jets in the carb and get about 20 bhp??
Hey bg I have an issue with my zrx, knocking noises, tryed cam tensioner and just had clutch basket off , there is a little bit of movement in the basket is that normal? The next step is ripping this engine apart but I wanted to try and pick some peoples heads before I have to do it , I’m thinking maybe a rod or a bearing in crankshaft but I don’t know any help would be super grateful
Hi..,couple of questions. What type of "Knocking noise"...? Track down were it is coming from.. 1/ top end..? 2/cam chain area 3/bottom end 4/RHS...? 5/LHS? 6/cams? 7/Cylinder.? You need to determine the area the "knocking noise" is coming from.....,what "type" of knock etc.. Is it a "hard knock" or a clatter..?? Couple of things to eliminate first.... Remove your alternator..,there is a rotating "plate" on the end which engages into the cush drives of the alternator drive housing.. Check if that "plate" is loose.. ....its retaining bolts may be tight...,but the plate may still not be seated.. This causes a "knock" since there is movement. If there is...,Remove the retaining bolt...,clean off the factory threadlock..,seat the plate fully and re torque up that bolt with fresh threadlock.. Gotta start with eliminating stuff like this prior to a full engine tear down.. Next look at the cam chain tensioner etc...,is it between notches... Howabout valve clearances...? What's the compression test on each piston say etc..etc. Plenty to be getting on with. If you do opt for a engine rebuild...,check out my videos here....,there are a number dealing with.,pistons.,crank. Rods.,cams.,clutch.,balancer...etc..,etc. Start with the easy stuff first..... God bless BG
@@brianwells5258 I’m so happy to receive a message!!! Ok so done full valve adjustments everything was completely out now everything sits middle to top end of tolerance, thought that was what the ticking ,rattling was, Then I took off the alternator checked the nut no movement was completely fine, then I slightly undone the cct bolts til I heard the click and then tightened, So next I removed clutch cover , check to see if this little tensioner was rubbing in the clutch basket, no scratches or wear so I’m guessing it’s not .. however there was a slight rattle on the clutch basket it’s not complety fixed stiff I now have that opened up whilst I deliberate the next steps, earlier I had it running used a screwdriver as a stethoscope and located to front right just about where the cylinder is , I’m praying it’s not a rod or a crank barring but it’s looking more and more likely as I’m eliminating everything else 😢 so the noise is like a high pitch tapping and as I rev it gets quicker
Could be a vacuum leak at the cam cover gasket..,plug well gaskets..,Reed valves.,exhaust etc.. Check and eliminate that.. Regarding rod or crank bearing failure..,do you know the history of the bike.? How many miles..,has it ever been dropped..,has the oil level ever been allowed to run "low"....,history of wheelies etc. If it has ever been dropped which means bike ran on its side..., or oil level ran low etc it invariably leads to oil starvation at cylinder 3 and bearing failure ensues within 2.5~3k miles. Eliminate vacuum leak first.. Also could be a sticking valve etc...(you said they were all out..)...,broke valve spring.,missing shim.. etc Regarding bearing failure...,do an oil pressure test to determine worn bearing (since bearings run on a film of oil) Also afterwards drain the oil to see if there is any "gold" swirl/glitter indicating bearing failure etc.. If necessary drop the oil pan as well ..,inspect the oil filter etc..etc.. "If" it is a rod or crank bearing then it will be a FULL engine teardown including splitting the cases etc.. Let's not go there ....yet.! Another tell tale sign of rod bearing failure is due to wear., the rod allows the piston to contact the head ....,however that is just the beginning as engine failure will ensure very shortly after that... All this is "worst case scenario".! Btm line...,eliminate all the other stuff first..!! 👍 Oh and a "Proper" stethoscope will determine Exactly where the noise is coming from..,(some times it's not precise enough using any other method).... God bless BG.
@@brianwells5258 mate I’m so grateful for your insight as I’m really pulling out my hair for the next steps , so bike has 43000 km when I bought it there was no signs of it being dropped ( damage on the sides) So the noise isn’t coming from the rocker cover the gasket was sealed correctly , I did put a new exhaust in it however I bought new gaskets for it and I put it on and cranked it up nice and tight so I don’t think it’s that, with regards to valves I changed them all and all rocker arms correctly sitting back on shims I cranked a few times before taking final readings to make sure they were seated correctly , but the noise is definatly at the cylinder right hand side piston 4 , I will upload some videos and tag you in this comment thanks mate
@@brianwells5258 so this is the clutch basket the nut is removed but it was also moving like this when the nut was torqued , is that normal th-cam.com/users/shortsPK7Q7jdV3JU?si=OECIc0r4BTB4U45r
.......bought "as is".....can't get the staff these days...😊 Oh and BTW...,NEVER look at a "Factory" Yamaha XJR 1200~1300 swing arm in that case. You should complain to Yamaha Japan and voice your opinions..(having been a "Highly skilled trained professional in the trade for over 40 years.)...😅 ....think you mentioned it a couple of times before..😅 BG.
I love that you call it a "swinging arm". Here in America, we simply call it a "swing arm".
😂....I try to cover all bases... (I titled the video "Swing Arm" options)
........I'm just happy you can follow along with my Northern Irish accent.... ☺..
Just picked up a zrx1200r, these videos are golden! Thank you!
Loved the video, thank you Brian 😊👍
Glad you enjoyed it Edmund..
Really appreciate it.
BG.
Thanks for what you do, gives me inspiration,how do you get on with rear paddock stands on the 1200 original bobbins
Hi...,thank you for following along and those kind comments.
Regarding the rear paddock stand/bobbins etc......,it is a bit of a pain since the bobbin position is below the brace..
That locates them VERY low for a conventional rear paddock stand and requires quite a bit of effort to lever the bike up onto the stand..!!
I have just recently bought yet another rear stand which will be just specifically for this bike...
I intend to cut the arms down to lower the "lifters" that hopefully will make hoisting the bike onto the paddock stand a much easier affair..!!
Oh and also as you are probably aware the welded "bosses" underneath the brace that allow you to screw bobbins into are not welded symmetrical (left versus right)
One is welded more "inboard" than the other and requires different length spacers to position the bobbins evenly so each will clear the outside face of the swing arm for the engagement hook of any paddock stand..
I think I cover all of this in part 3 of the swing arm install in this series on my Channel here....th-cam.com/video/MAVPSd0PZs0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4hX6sfAKLwMjg_6l
BG.
@@brianwells5258 thank you for your reply
DAEG one is stunning ❤
Yeah..,I really like it.. 👍
So much work went into creating this one...,it just HAS to be fitted...!!
😮 awesome vid I am constantly gobbling smacked by the shear amount of knowledge out there ✊❤️
Love the Over Racing unit; for me if I had the cash it would be an Onishi Heat Magic 👍
Good choice!..
Yes I love my OVER 10...,its staying on my 05 bike.
The modified/braced DAEG one will be perfect for my 01...(one of only Two.,so it's pretty unique. 👍)
The DAEG one is the go......with your bling bits.
Oh the knowledge and talent ! .Can i ask where that carbon swing arm protector can be got? .Ive been looking for the longest time and no luck for something similar
Thank you for your kind comments and support..
Regarding the Carbon Fiber under swingarm piece.....,here it is..japan.webike.net/products/9476377.html
God bless
BG.
I think the 1200's swinging arm looks great... maybe down the line I'll get a after market arm.. a quick question I think you mentioned you have a Black Widow exhaust and was wondering if it covers access to the oil filter 🤔🤔🤔
Yes I have a Black Widow for this 01 and a Kerker on my 05....,they all cover access to the oil filter plate....,however its only a 2~3 minute job to take the exhaust can and mid~link pipe off....(one bolt and two springs..)
Not a problem at all...,and I do this every time rather than trying to undo the plate and have oil spilling out all around its circumference onto the exhaust...,which is always going to be a total mess.
Better to put your bike on a rear paddock stand then spend a couple of minutes popping off the can and mid~link pipe....then you can have Full access and none of the mess..
BG
That's great Brian.. I'll get myself a Black Widow.. I got a SP Engineering Can .. I guess it will fit the Widow seeing it fitted the original header.. lol thanks again 👍
Black Widow give you that "flange" adapter that clamps around the link pipe then has 3 holes to allow you to bolt up to an exhaust can..
@@brianwells5258 sounds good to me.. ill have to take a look on their website... thanks 👍
What finish did you give the swing arm? Powder coated? Apologies if I missed it in the video. I’m restoring/ modifying mine and like this finish 👍
Worth asking. Do you/ would you produce any of the parts you have made for sale?
Yes. , Powder coated sparkle silver base coat with a gloss clear powder coat finish..
@@wexxexbestno sorry....,maybe when I retired and have the time .......,however with my current day job I do 11 hour + days Monday~Friday so have only got Sat and Sun for myself.,so my "spare time" is very limited and precious...
Thanks for asking though..
God bless
BG.
That’s great thanks for the info on the paint finish 👍. I know the feeling when it comes to work and spare time! All the best my man
She. You say upgrading the engine , what is it your doing ? And is there any cool upgrades for more power/speed/ acceleration, I’ve heard you can change jets in the carb and get about 20 bhp??
Drinking game, take a shot when you hear the word swingin………
😊
Factory can't be bad,Arash swinging arm is trick
Yep..,that's the one I'll be fitting... 👍
(Arash's~Kwick's modified and braced DAEG one...)
Looks the goods
go with one you like
👍....!
Great video Brian, my 99 is braced and powder coated silver…..your bike will look even more awesome with the Daeg….Randy
Unless you’re riding it hard enough to flex the stock arm and wobble the bike, I would use the original.
Hey bg I have an issue with my zrx, knocking noises, tryed cam tensioner and just had clutch basket off , there is a little bit of movement in the basket is that normal? The next step is ripping this engine apart but I wanted to try and pick some peoples heads before I have to do it , I’m thinking maybe a rod or a bearing in crankshaft but I don’t know any help would be super grateful
Hi..,couple of questions.
What type of "Knocking noise"...?
Track down were it is coming from..
1/ top end..?
2/cam chain area
3/bottom end
4/RHS...?
5/LHS?
6/cams?
7/Cylinder.?
You need to determine the area the "knocking noise" is coming from.....,what "type" of knock etc..
Is it a "hard knock" or a clatter..??
Couple of things to eliminate first....
Remove your alternator..,there is a rotating "plate" on the end which engages into the cush drives of the alternator drive housing..
Check if that "plate" is loose..
....its retaining bolts may be tight...,but the plate may still not be seated..
This causes a "knock" since there is movement.
If there is...,Remove the retaining bolt...,clean off the factory threadlock..,seat the plate fully and re torque up that bolt with fresh threadlock..
Gotta start with eliminating stuff like this prior to a full engine tear down..
Next look at the cam chain tensioner etc...,is it between notches...
Howabout valve clearances...?
What's the compression test on each piston say etc..etc.
Plenty to be getting on with.
If you do opt for a engine rebuild...,check out my videos here....,there are a number dealing with.,pistons.,crank. Rods.,cams.,clutch.,balancer...etc..,etc.
Start with the easy stuff first.....
God bless
BG
@@brianwells5258 I’m so happy to receive a message!!! Ok so done full valve adjustments everything was completely out now everything sits middle to top end of tolerance, thought that was what the ticking ,rattling was,
Then I took off the alternator checked the nut no movement was completely fine, then I slightly undone the cct bolts til I heard the click and then tightened,
So next I removed clutch cover , check to see if this little tensioner was rubbing in the clutch basket, no scratches or wear so I’m guessing it’s not .. however there was a slight rattle on the clutch basket it’s not complety fixed stiff I now have that opened up whilst I deliberate the next steps, earlier I had it running used a screwdriver as a stethoscope and located to front right just about where the cylinder is , I’m praying it’s not a rod or a crank barring but it’s looking more and more likely as I’m eliminating everything else 😢 so the noise is like a high pitch tapping and as I rev it gets quicker
Could be a vacuum leak at the cam cover gasket..,plug well gaskets..,Reed valves.,exhaust etc..
Check and eliminate that..
Regarding rod or crank bearing failure..,do you know the history of the bike.?
How many miles..,has it ever been dropped..,has the oil level ever been allowed to run "low"....,history of wheelies etc.
If it has ever been dropped which means bike ran on its side..., or oil level ran low etc it invariably leads to oil starvation at cylinder 3 and bearing failure ensues within 2.5~3k miles.
Eliminate vacuum leak first..
Also could be a sticking valve etc...(you said they were all out..)...,broke valve spring.,missing shim.. etc
Regarding bearing failure...,do an oil pressure test to determine worn bearing (since bearings run on a film of oil)
Also afterwards drain the oil to see if there is any "gold" swirl/glitter indicating bearing failure etc..
If necessary drop the oil pan as well ..,inspect the oil filter etc..etc..
"If" it is a rod or crank bearing then it will be a FULL engine teardown including splitting the cases etc..
Let's not go there ....yet.!
Another tell tale sign of rod bearing failure is due to wear., the rod allows the piston to contact the head ....,however that is just the beginning as engine failure will ensure very shortly after that...
All this is "worst case scenario".!
Btm line...,eliminate all the other stuff first..!! 👍
Oh and a "Proper" stethoscope will determine Exactly where the noise is coming from..,(some times it's not precise enough using any other method)....
God bless
BG.
@@brianwells5258 mate I’m so grateful for your insight as I’m really pulling out my hair for the next steps , so bike has 43000 km when I bought it there was no signs of it being dropped ( damage on the sides)
So the noise isn’t coming from the rocker cover the gasket was sealed correctly , I did put a new exhaust in it however I bought new gaskets for it and I put it on and cranked it up nice and tight so I don’t think it’s that, with regards to valves I changed them all and all rocker arms correctly sitting back on shims I cranked a few times before taking final readings to make sure they were seated correctly , but the noise is definatly at the cylinder right hand side piston 4 , I will upload some videos and tag you in this comment thanks mate
@@brianwells5258 so this is the clutch basket the nut is removed but it was also moving like this when the nut was torqued , is that normal
th-cam.com/users/shortsPK7Q7jdV3JU?si=OECIc0r4BTB4U45r
That is TERRIBLE alloy welding on the DAEG swinging arm.
Both the shock mount brackets and the brace pieces.
Just DISGRACEFUL work.
.......bought "as is".....can't get the staff these days...😊
Oh and BTW...,NEVER look at a "Factory" Yamaha XJR 1200~1300 swing arm in that case.
You should complain to Yamaha Japan and voice your opinions..(having been a "Highly skilled trained professional in the trade for over 40 years.)...😅
....think you mentioned it a couple of times before..😅
BG.