This style of video is fine with me. Don't over think it, alot of successful TH-cam is filmed in a rough and ready way. I hope this house build gains alot of traction for your channel and pays for the pool!
Great video and excellent choice in insulating from the outside of the fabric, but why only 100mm of insulation? Even with K5 phenolic resin boards that's still only a U-value of around 0.17 and with the huge surface area of that building that will soon add up to lots of energy required to maintain the indoor temperatures you want. You only get one chance of insulating this building so I would aim for a lower wall U-value than ~0.17 that you get with 100mm K5 and a inner block wall and 100mm brick on the outside, unless of course you are planning on putting a timber frame inside the steel and fully insulate that?!
Looks fun, looking forward to see how it goes forward. One thought which might be cool, how about attaching a cheap camera to a strategic steel which you leave in place for the entirety of the build getting hourly or daily stills from? Might not be practical but could be an interesting perspective. You could even have it streamed via your patreon? Maybe with a 24 hour delay.
Very exciting. Please dont worry about the production quality (didnt even notice until you mentioned it at the end). Its more important to be brought on the journey. Its a long project, no point buring out with fancy cameras and editing. Really looking forward to seeing things take shape 👍
Brilliant that you are getting PHPP model done. Not enough easy to access examples of that at the level of detail you will go in to. Excited to see you go through the process Thank for sharing
I remember doing some PHVP at school 20 years ago, which was essentially a glorified Excel spreadsheet, in which you entered the orientation, size and U value of each and every part of the building's outer shell (walls, windows, doors, floors, roof, etc.) and it gave you the heating energy required. PHVP was a simplified version of PHPP.
It's great to get a bit more indepth with a talky video at each stage. You're not wrong about it being hard to gauge how much rubble there is. I filled a single garage with sacks of mostly lime plaster about 4ft high and I was shocked it was around 10 ton only from about half of the walls in two rooms in a two bed town house. I was even more shocked at the cost of getting rid of it 😅
Style of video is fine. Great I can see extra stuff on Patreon. Size of building is scary when you start to consider the costs per square metre. I think I would try to source the narrowest digger bucket needed to cut the foundations- could save a huge amount in concrete. But I guess you have that in hand.
Hi all Trying to get my head around the sheer size of the place , as a retired electrical contractor I’ve worked on smaller schools than you project . Even with good thermal efficiency, that’s going to take some heating . With a plant room the size of a shipping container , as for what type of heating you have in mind , I don’t think even a couple of large air source heaters would make much of a dent . But we will have to see what the engineers come up with , at least with under floor heating you can operate at a lower temperature . After that there’s always thick woolly jumpers , only kidding you’ll be fine . 😂 Kind regards as always 👍
My initial thought is to keep/replicate the simple industrial look of the current structure. Use the current bays to guide location and scale of fenestration. I’d build an interior double wall liner structure, stepped in from the exterior shell by an inch or so. The new liner wall (exterior side to interior side) would be comprised of: - Zip R sheathing - 2x6 wall structure (load-bearing) - 3” space - 2x4 wall structure (non-load bearing) - 1/2” sheathing lined with a vapor retarder - sheet rock, fermicell or other treatment to meet fire code. - Double wall is 12” thick, and filled w/ dense pack cellulose, providing +/- R-46, plus the Zip-R… R-50+. - And, the 3” space between studs can be helpful with plumbing, electrical, etc. I’m very interested to see what you/your architect is proposing.
You are on the right lines but it has already been decided they are having new walls on the exterior of the building, these will be with new foundations. So the plans are all finalised and can't change now, what they are doing currently is turning these plans into a set of building documents which then have to be approved by the Council before building work can formaly begin.
@@dannymurphy1779 :: I didn’t realize the extent of what was permitted for a new exterior… I thought they were more restricted. Appreciate the info. Look forward to watching the whole process.
Are you considering hydronic slab heating? I heat a 150m3 slab in my shop with a boiler similar to the one you put in the old house, and it’s just a game changer for comfort, even at -30C. Even after opening the doors and pulling tractors in and out, once the door is closed, that thermal mass in the slab means it’s right comfortable right away. And it means even when you track in snow, the floor is always dry when you’re trying to work on things. Theres also a 100m3 annex, and if I leave the overhead door open, that normal cold space quickly becomes a usable workspace.
Most likely however it would need be downgraded to produce a lower output than typical underfloor heating as it could be too much for such a well insulated house. Will wait for the modelling to come back and see what heat is needed. It's definitely the most typical install in this type of build.
@@TheRestorationCouple We shut the boiler off in the spring, but I do like that Wiesmann has a full range of flexibility, so with a heat exhanger to decouple the heating loop from the boiler loop, it could have been set up to provide domestic hot-water on demand in parallel, but water needs in the workshop are not sophisticated. We ended up with this unit almost accidently… The heating boiler that was installed at construction failed in 5 years, and it was a cheap-and-easy old school unit. When the heat exchanger on the burner rusted out in the depths of winter, we called the plumbing contractor we work with (at the time we were doing a lot of commercial building foundations) and had him order one in for me to pick up and retrofit myself. This is when I discovered that glycol and soldering copper/brass tubing was not a happy combination.
Hi Tim. I'm in the process of setting up my own channel and so far all my footage has been filmed using my phone which I don't think looks tremendous. My beloved has a fancy Cannon digital SLR which I want to use but have a question about go-pro , and that is how much recording time do you get for each charge of the battery ?
Well I'm sure you and Jo both have ptsd from the planning stages however. It seems bonkers to me that the planners would say no to making rhe barn smaller. Erm less impact on the environment would spring to mind smaller footprint less to heat better for the environment maybe but who am I to say. Keep up rhe good work Tim I've been with you all the way brother.
any reason your architect hasn't recommended more than 100mm insulation? I knows its not a new build but the regs are requiring 150mm minimum now on new builds. The cost to heat this space is going to be astronomical
There is 200mm insulated stud walls between steels, the 100m is what wraps externally to create the continuous layer. Should be well beyond regs thankfully. 👍
I am not really clear why you are not intending to use a beam and block floor when it is both less risky and better for pipes and insulation, is there a reason why you can't use it??? The other bit I struggle with is it's not easy to understand where your FFL is when you seem to have footings at about floor level, plus the building itself is cut into a slope. It is hard to relate your FFL, dpc and your footings, like in a house you have footings 1m below ground level and a dpc 150mm above. I had wondered if you could remove the hardcore, dig down a bit and go with beam and block to give you a bit more height. Also with a slab it seems a risky venture if you are doing the prep yourself as if you are prepping and a contractor is pouring it would be a very difficult situation if the slab cracked subsequently. I imagine it will be some time before the building regs plans get final apporval and you can officially start, in the meantime I think a Q&A video would be very helpful. I think where the video is quite confused is over the footings, you can't have footings on backfill, it has to be undisturbed ground. None of this is your decision anyway, it is all down to what the BCO wants, what they say you do. Again down the sides it will be what the approved document states, perhaps you will have to hand dig the new trench and underpin the existing founds 1m at a time???
So... you can't make the building smaller but are allowed to make it bigger with the inclusion of insulation and brick work. The planning system is barking.
I still do not have a clue why planning and councils do not want to have any part of what essentially is a realtively cheaply built pretty ugly asbestos clad barn altered. They should be jumping at the chance to have a family wanting to build a family home on a farm they purchased.
Well the reason is they want the countryside to have an agricultural look, that is the thinking behind it. You also have to factor in they are on a very sensitive site as regards wildlife.
This style of video is fine with me. Don't over think it, alot of successful TH-cam is filmed in a rough and ready way. I hope this house build gains alot of traction for your channel and pays for the pool!
The sun shining through the barn looked amazing. Can’t wait to see it as a house!
Great video and excellent choice in insulating from the outside of the fabric, but why only 100mm of insulation? Even with K5 phenolic resin boards that's still only a U-value of around 0.17 and with the huge surface area of that building that will soon add up to lots of energy required to maintain the indoor temperatures you want. You only get one chance of insulating this building so I would aim for a lower wall U-value than ~0.17 that you get with 100mm K5 and a inner block wall and 100mm brick on the outside, unless of course you are planning on putting a timber frame inside the steel and fully insulate that?!
100mm is just the external insulation, walls will be 400mm thick with 200mm insulated studwork. 👍
What a luxury being able to do all that work under cover 😊 imagine the same job exposed to the elements
Looks fun, looking forward to see how it goes forward. One thought which might be cool, how about attaching a cheap camera to a strategic steel which you leave in place for the entirety of the build getting hourly or daily stills from? Might not be practical but could be an interesting perspective. You could even have it streamed via your patreon? Maybe with a 24 hour delay.
Very exciting. Please dont worry about the production quality (didnt even notice until you mentioned it at the end). Its more important to be brought on the journey. Its a long project, no point buring out with fancy cameras and editing. Really looking forward to seeing things take shape 👍
I think the video is fab!!!!!! Walk,talk and go pro camera is fab! 🥰
Brilliant that you are getting PHPP model done. Not enough easy to access examples of that at the level of detail you will go in to. Excited to see you go through the process
Thank for sharing
You've taken on a massive job there Tim! I'm sure it will end up with your usual high level of finishing. I'm very much enjoying your journey.
Am loving these barn updates… we love to see how things are progressing - you don’t need to apologise for removing the slab!
Brilliant, strength to you, Jo and the girls 👍
Love this style, can confirm the Patreon is well worth it.
I remember doing some PHVP at school 20 years ago, which was essentially a glorified Excel spreadsheet, in which you entered the orientation, size and U value of each and every part of the building's outer shell (walls, windows, doors, floors, roof, etc.) and it gave you the heating energy required. PHVP was a simplified version of PHPP.
It's great to get a bit more indepth with a talky video at each stage. You're not wrong about it being hard to gauge how much rubble there is. I filled a single garage with sacks of mostly lime plaster about 4ft high and I was shocked it was around 10 ton only from about half of the walls in two rooms in a two bed town house. I was even more shocked at the cost of getting rid of it 😅
Style of video is fine. Great I can see extra stuff on Patreon.
Size of building is scary when you start to consider the costs per square metre. I think I would try to source the narrowest digger bucket needed to cut the foundations- could save a huge amount in concrete. But I guess you have that in hand.
Can you put magnetic camera mounts on the steel columns up high to limit damage?
Because of the nature of this project there is going to be a lot of repetition. Well done for thinking it all through!
Hi all Trying to get my head around the sheer size of the place , as a retired electrical contractor I’ve worked on smaller schools than you project . Even with good thermal efficiency, that’s going to take some heating . With a plant room the size of a shipping container , as for what type of heating you have in mind , I don’t think even a couple of large air source heaters would make much of a dent . But we will have to see what the engineers come up with , at least with under floor heating you can operate at a lower temperature . After that there’s always thick woolly jumpers , only kidding you’ll be fine . 😂 Kind regards as always 👍
Great job, you will definitely be able to use all that concrete around the farm etc
Please do an ICF swimming pool. Can’t find anyone in the UK doing this and it seems semi DIY friendly
Hi you guys great start 👋
My initial thought is to keep/replicate the simple industrial look of the current structure. Use the current bays to guide location and scale of fenestration.
I’d build an interior double wall liner structure, stepped in from the exterior shell by an inch or so.
The new liner wall (exterior side to interior side) would be comprised of:
- Zip R sheathing
- 2x6 wall structure (load-bearing)
- 3” space
- 2x4 wall structure (non-load bearing)
- 1/2” sheathing lined with a vapor retarder
- sheet rock, fermicell or other treatment to meet fire code.
- Double wall is 12” thick, and filled w/ dense pack cellulose, providing +/- R-46, plus the Zip-R… R-50+.
- And, the 3” space between studs can be helpful with plumbing, electrical, etc.
I’m very interested to see what you/your architect is proposing.
You are on the right lines but it has already been decided they are having new walls on the exterior of the building, these will be with new foundations. So the plans are all finalised and can't change now, what they are doing currently is turning these plans into a set of building documents which then have to be approved by the Council before building work can formaly begin.
@@dannymurphy1779 :: I didn’t realize the extent of what was permitted for a new exterior… I thought they were more restricted. Appreciate the info.
Look forward to watching the whole process.
Great start made .... a long road ahead .... but at least once you start building you will feel you are going forwards
Are you considering hydronic slab heating? I heat a 150m3 slab in my shop with a boiler similar to the one you put in the old house, and it’s just a game changer for comfort, even at -30C. Even after opening the doors and pulling tractors in and out, once the door is closed, that thermal mass in the slab means it’s right comfortable right away. And it means even when you track in snow, the floor is always dry when you’re trying to work on things. Theres also a 100m3 annex, and if I leave the overhead door open, that normal cold space quickly becomes a usable workspace.
Most likely however it would need be downgraded to produce a lower output than typical underfloor heating as it could be too much for such a well insulated house. Will wait for the modelling to come back and see what heat is needed. It's definitely the most typical install in this type of build.
@@TheRestorationCouple We shut the boiler off in the spring, but I do like that Wiesmann has a full range of flexibility, so with a heat exhanger to decouple the heating loop from the boiler loop, it could have been set up to provide domestic hot-water on demand in parallel, but water needs in the workshop are not sophisticated. We ended up with this unit almost accidently… The heating boiler that was installed at construction failed in 5 years, and it was a cheap-and-easy old school unit. When the heat exchanger on the burner rusted out in the depths of winter, we called the plumbing contractor we work with (at the time we were doing a lot of commercial building foundations) and had him order one in for me to pick up and retrofit myself.
This is when I discovered that glycol and soldering copper/brass tubing was not a happy combination.
Loving the videos keep up the great work❤
Hi mate, very long subscriber, love your videos. Love the update/vlog videos
Glad you like them!😀
Its surprising those steels below soil level are fairly rust free. Big project Tim. Keep going.
Amazing isn't it! Even not galv and just red oxide they were like new where there was no cow muck (and oxygen). 👍
Hi Tim. I'm in the process of setting up my own channel and so far all my footage has been filmed using my phone which I don't think looks tremendous. My beloved has a fancy Cannon digital SLR which I want to use but have a question about go-pro , and that is how much recording time do you get for each charge of the battery ?
Question-what do you do with all the metal you have taken out of the barn. Do you take it to a recycle place? Just curious
Bit late… but for your hearing it’s best to spread the exposure out.
Better still to wear adequate haring protection, or preferably both.
Well I'm sure you and Jo both have ptsd from the planning stages however. It seems bonkers to me that the planners would say no to making rhe barn smaller. Erm less impact on the environment would spring to mind smaller footprint less to heat better for the environment maybe but who am I to say. Keep up rhe good work Tim I've been with you all the way brother.
Dig, dig, dig. 👍
Looking good, shame there is stuff behind a Patreon pay wall, I just can’t afford that.
any reason your architect hasn't recommended more than 100mm insulation? I knows its not a new build but the regs are requiring 150mm minimum now on new builds. The cost to heat this space is going to be astronomical
There is 200mm insulated stud walls between steels, the 100m is what wraps externally to create the continuous layer. Should be well beyond regs thankfully. 👍
Don’t break the southern terrace one of my survey nails is in there lol
😂 I'll make sure it's left as a feature!
I’m sure there will be more interesting features than a survey nail lol
Could you use the old stuff to put on your track to the bottom field? Thank you for the reminder, I need to watch my patreon vlogs sorry
Subject to more planning ... but yes that's the plan. 👍
I am not really clear why you are not intending to use a beam and block floor when it is both less risky and better for pipes and insulation, is there a reason why you can't use it??? The other bit I struggle with is it's not easy to understand where your FFL is when you seem to have footings at about floor level, plus the building itself is cut into a slope. It is hard to relate your FFL, dpc and your footings, like in a house you have footings 1m below ground level and a dpc 150mm above. I had wondered if you could remove the hardcore, dig down a bit and go with beam and block to give you a bit more height. Also with a slab it seems a risky venture if you are doing the prep yourself as if you are prepping and a contractor is pouring it would be a very difficult situation if the slab cracked subsequently.
I imagine it will be some time before the building regs plans get final apporval and you can officially start, in the meantime I think a Q&A video would be very helpful. I think where the video is quite confused is over the footings, you can't have footings on backfill, it has to be undisturbed ground. None of this is your decision anyway, it is all down to what the BCO wants, what they say you do. Again down the sides it will be what the approved document states, perhaps you will have to hand dig the new trench and underpin the existing founds 1m at a time???
👊🫡
So... you can't make the building smaller but are allowed to make it bigger with the inclusion of insulation and brick work. The planning system is barking.
I still do not have a clue why planning and councils do not want to have any part of what essentially is a realtively cheaply built pretty ugly asbestos clad barn altered. They should be jumping at the chance to have a family wanting to build a family home on a farm they purchased.
Well the reason is they want the countryside to have an agricultural look, that is the thinking behind it. You also have to factor in they are on a very sensitive site as regards wildlife.
@@dannymurphy1779 so an ugly barn with an asbestos roof is that 'agricultural look'? ;)