Great idea and video! When clicking on the link above, it goes to a page that says "No Posts Found". Searching that page shows no hits for bbq. Is there another page that has the " MORE COMPLETE DETAILS AND A PARTS DIAGRAM" ?
@@tomrmalcolm Thanks for the heads up, and sorry for the problem. We have corrected the link, so you should be able to see all the parts. www.thervgeeks.com/how-to-connect-a-gas-grill-to-an-rv/
I had watched your video due to the email you send us but needed to come to youtube so i can give you a thumbs up! Always useful stuff, thank you so much.
Nice setup and explanation Peter. I've thought of doing this but thought it would limit where I could setup the grill. Your long hose setup solves that problem. I would also use it for my Little Buddy Heater which also uses canisters. How lucky am I to have had the privilege of sharing meat from your grill.
Thanks Brian. That extra 12' length of hose really helps, allowing us to set up anywhere alongside the RV. We can also move the barbecue anywhere we want by removing the male quick connect on the grill and using a canister (although we never do, as we always set up somewhere along the curb side of the rig anyway). We have a very similar set-up for our Kozy World heater, with a quick connect on each end of the hose so we can coil it up and put it away when not in use. We'll probably be using it when we see you, so we'll have to compare notes as we "share meat" LOL
Thank you so much! I was told by a propane "expert" that what you were doing was not possible (he told me you could not have a regulated propane line go into another regulator because "it would not have enough pressure to go through the second regulator")... Guess he was full of gas. And many thanks for the parts list so that I could see what parts I needed and that they actually exist.
+Barney Gargle LOL Guess we've been eating our meals raw without realizing it. 😉 The only thing he's right about is that two 11" water column regulators would prevent there from behind enough pressure. Good thing we used that 15 PSI unit for the first one.
I've been wondering about this very point for years! My question is this - what psi is the regulator on the onboard propane tank for my class C (or any RV for that matter)? It splits up to feed my refrig, cooktop, furnace and generator. But I'm removing the generator. If I convert the propane line to the generator to a quick connect, do I then have to remove the regulator in the Weber Q grill as is shown in other videos? When I saw you had 2 regulators (the new 15 psi on coming off your stay awhile and one on your grill) I was wondering how that works, which you have answered. So I assume I'd have to remove the regulator on the grill when hooking up to the quick connect. If using a tank then I'd have to be sure to use a hose with a regulator.
We have an '04 Beaver and have been grappling with just this issue. The RV repair shops are no help at all. We have been direct connecting to the tank with a 12' hose but it is inconvenient and not terribly safe because of the propane discharge each time we disconnect. This information is brilliant and so useful!!! With your clear procedures and links to products, we finally have a solution. Thank you RV Geeks!!!! One question - could a capable RV Mobil handyman install the extend a stay? That may be beyond my comfort zone - propane is frightening stuff!
Hi Colleen! Thanks so much for your nice note. Glad we could offer up a potential solution for you. We do indeed love our setup. As far as installing the Extend-a-Stay, there is no doubt that any RV handyman could do it, because we have no professional tech training at all, and it was a breeze. It's designed and sold as a consumer product with the idea that the average handy RVer can install it easily, and we'd agree... not hard at all. So if you're unsure about working on a propane line and would be more comfortable having a mobile RV handyman do it, we say that if you find a guy who's in the business of working on RVs, and he tells you he can't install it, don't have him work on ANYTHING on your RV, since he might not be qualified! ;-)
I've just recently done something similar Peter, but instead of taking it from the tank, where there was already a quick disconnect prior to the regulator, I noticed I have a bank (manifold) on the passenger side, so I chose to take out the one and only 'plug' and after picking up some parts and a new quick connect (with shutoff), I can now BBQ on the passenger side. I have the same BBQ you do Peter, but some years earlier I'd taken the regulator off of the BBQ so it could be used with our truck/camper, which was 'after' the regulator, so I again needed the supply from after the regulator again, which it is from the propane bank/manifold! So it now has the correct pressure being after the coaches regulator as well. Only issue at this time is that I have to leave the compartment door open when using it, so I'll eventually rig up a setup where I can pass the hose through, which will have to have some kind of grommet/door on it, to keep all the critters out! :)
That's great, Dale! There are many ways to tackle this project... and having (1) a propane manifold accessible and (2) a grill with the regulator already removed is a great combo! Hope you have an awesome grilling season! 😉
I hacked a brand new Q1200. Took regulator off and replaced with quick change male propane connector, made a hose. Now I simply hose into RV with quick change, no more pound cylinders. I attached a female plug to the removed regulator so I can still use the grill on the beach with the one pound cylinder if needed. At home, I quick change it into a 20 pound grill tank with a female end on the hose. All three ways work flawless. Q1200 rocks!
Always a helpful and well done video. I want to also compliment you on how nicely you maintain your motorhome. It always looks showroom fresh and detailed in every compartment and nook and cranny! I love seeing your big Newmar in the videos and appreciating all of your detailing efforts. I'm the same way. I own a couple of classic show cars and I understand how important it is to have every nut and bolt detailed. I keep our RVs in the same condition. My family and friends think I'm crazy but it's a labor of love. I think an individual either gets it or they don't. Thanks for sharing and I look forward to the next video!
Thanks so much, Terry! Nothing "crazy" about taking care of your gear. When I (Peter) got my first car, my Dad was irritated at how much water I used by washing it almost every day! LOL I can think of a lot worse hobbies.
Thank you! Just what I needed. Our Class A doesn’t have a connection for a grill, but it already has the Extend-A-Stay fitting on the propane tank. I was wondering what that thing was. However, I think there is a better way for me. The ¼” copper propane line to the furnace is in the compartment where I want the connection. So, I was thinking of just adding a T with a valved quick connect to that line. Then I would just need a hose with the fittings on each end & on the grill. Actually, it’s a small Blackstone griddle.
Looks like there is another regulator though on the grill after you plug in. I did same thing but the reg on my Colman doesn’t let the flame be true to low med high. Need to figure out a way to bypass the Coleman’s regulator but still have low med high
I had to remove the regulator from my grill because the RV had one already on it close to the tanks. If you have 2 regulators in the same line you may not be able to get enough pressure to the grill. That is why I had to remove the one that came on the grill. My grill is the Weber Q1000.
Correct. The grill connection the RV manufacturers provide is connected to low-pressure propane (after the onboard regulator… typically 11-inch water column which is about 0.5psi). In that case, the pressure is too low. You can either remove the regulator in the grill… or not use the built-in grill connection and install an Extend-a-Stay like we did.
As always, I turn to the RV Geeks for direction whenever doing an update. This time hooking my portable grill to the RV propane tank instead of the little green bottles.
If you are using the more typical 30 lb bottles (or even 20), you can get a brass "tee" for about 35 bucks that connects right to the bottle and then connects to the RV hose same as before but also has a take off for a hose to the bbq. The hose is about another 35 bucks. Problem solved. Of course that means your bbq has to be withing about 8 feet of the tank (or however long those hoses are) but I have this system and it works quite well. The biggest reason to get one of these tees and a hose is the money. Ya, you got to drop about $70 for the tee and the hose. But around here in Canada a 1 lb green bottle goes for about $4, whereas the 30 lb bottle fills for about $1 a pound. It's a 75% reduction in cost to run the bbq! Doesn't take long to pay for itself. When you buy the little green bottles, the portability is excellent, but you are mostly paying for the steel bottle not the propane. If you hardly use your bbq the green bottles are probably the way to go but if you go through a bunch of green bottles a year the tee and hose is the way to go. I still always carry a couple of green bottles though. I used to carry them in case we wanted to use the Coleman lantern but who uses them anymore since they came out with LED lanterns? But I still put my outdoor stove out once in a while. Not very often because there is a perfectly good stove in the RV but we do use it occasionally.
Thanks! Oh yeah... the sizzle came later. LOL It took us a few tries to get this one right, but we think we finally have a perfect setup for ourselves. Very happy with it since we added the 15 PSI regulator.
Thanks for the information. I've had a similar hookup in my 5th wheel for several years and had the oil in regulator problem, it ruined the regulator! Now I know why and will put your info to work when I extend my "new" coach lines for BBQ use.
The first time our grill stopped working and we pulled the regulator and found oil, we were like "What the heck is that?!" Who knew? So glad we could help share this odd problem and its solution. :)
Thanks guys - this is exactly what I needed now with colder weather. My tank is on the passenger side next to the door so it will be a lot easier to connect.
Hey Guys - I ordered the parts and was looking at the instructions again. Once that regulator is installed something is going to have to be connected to the top of it all the time isn't it? If so I need to check clearances and order a valve or something. Thanks Bill
Bill Long Since we didn't install any type of shut-off valve in the line heading over to the grill, we do indeed have to keep something connected to it at all times. Even when we disconnect the grill, the only thing stopping propane from just rushing out of the hose is the quick-connect at the grill side. If your set-up requires you to disconnect the entire hose going to the grill from the tank for any reason, you will indeed need a shut-off valve on the tank end of the hose. Hope we understood your question correctly!
I see that you put the wall pass-through in the recess behind the outer edge of your passenger side slide. For those of us without a slide, there will have to be a spot that will work. This is one of the first modifications I will be making to my (new to me) RV. I will be setting it up so that I can run more than one propane-using item at a time, however. I envision a grill, a griddle, and perhaps also a propane post light. Thanks for posting this, the part about a close-to-the-tank regulator is key information.
It is my understanding that connecting to a Weber Traver pressure regulator will cause low flame because the regulator is set for tank pressure. I have read that you have put a t past the grill regulator to get it to work with the trailer low pressure gas system.
Another great video. I've been thinking about how to do this for quite some time. We have a BBQ grill and an outdoor stove/oven which I sometimes run simultaneously. I will need some sort of Y adaptor or T/splitter of some sort.
Great explanation. Can alway,s count on you to give accurate information. Not so with other sites. Keep up the good work as I alway,s look forward to your video's . Thanks from Canada.
It never fails when we head out on a trip, that hubby forgets to pack those 1 lbs LP tanks. We have cases of them in our storage building and he always forgets! I think on purpose, so he doesn't have to cook! LOL
I've heard issues with having the second regulator right at the grill. Issues of not enough propane getting through. Can you remove the regulator and plug the quick connect right into the grill
Hi Julian. That issue occurs when the first regulator drops the pressure too low to meet the input pressure requirement for the second regulator. That's why we went with the 15psi regulator at the tank side. It's plenty high enough for the input to the grill's regulator, but low enough to prevent the oily build-up in the hose. If you're going to completely remove the regulator from the grill, you'd want to match the regulator at the tank end to whatever the output from the grill's regulator was. Which, if the grill's regulator dropped pressure down to 11" Water Column (or 0.5 PSI), then you'd want to tee in AFTER your RV's onboard regulator which is also 11" WC. Hope that makes sense.
I replicated your setup on my coach about two years ago. It has been working great all this time but recently I began to notice a propane smell when I would open up the valve at the propane tank. Turns out the 15psi regulator had started leaking after just two years. The part is still available from Amazon so hopefully the replacement will last longer.
Thanks for the video. So, you have a second regulator that remains on the grill still? Does the already-regulated gas just pass through with virtually no change? Was wondering why you still had the second regulator on the grill side.
Great question! We do still have the original regulator on the grill. The reason it works, and provides enough flow, is because the first one is a step-down regulator, which brings the pressure down to 15 psi. That is still far higher than the regulator on the grill, which is closer to about 1/2 psi. The reduction in pressure along the line prevents oil buildup in the hose, but it’s still high enough to provide plenty of flow for the grill. That higher pressure also means that the grill’s regulator is indeed still required.
Yup! The “low” pressure at that first regulator is 15 psi, which is FAR more than needed to pressure the grill, even with the grill’s regulator in place.
Great video. So if I just wanted a quick connect on the basement door (opposite side)for a BBQ or fire pit only I would connect to the rv side of the regulator? I really want a Y to add a quick connect to the floor by the driver seat for a big buddy heater also. I think all this can be done after the rv regulator. I will use your links to see if I can order the parts . thanks
Hi Jim. Technically, yes you can do what you’re saying and connect your quick connect on the RV side of the regulator. But doing that will require you to either remove the regulator from your grill, or buy a grill that does not have one and can run off low propane pressure. Do you likely also wouldn’t be able to run a propane fire pit from the RV side of the propane supply because the pressure and flow are too low. That’s why the Extend-a-Stay is a good option because it enables you to tap into the high-pressure propane needed for devices like grills and portable fire pits.
@@RVgeeks thanks I didnt think about the pressure needed for a fire pit. Lol that changes everything. I would like to put a big buddy heater up by the drivers side seat. I think you are right though. Before the regulator is better. Thanks
Thanks for the info. I did the same thing except i removed the regulator from the grill and put a quick fit on it so that i can take the grill away from the RV and still use it with the small tanks. The regulator on the grill is not used when attached to the RV main propane tank as it's regulated from the RV tank.
This setup did not work for me because of the propane is going through two regulators. The first regulator brings the pressure down enough to be sufficient but the regulator on the Weber will not let enough propane pass through it. :(
You guys have provided such a valuable service to all RV'ers. This was just what I needed to hear. I will get the quick connect pieces for my portable Weber grill (just like yours but red). One question: My RV is a 1997 Class C Tioga Montara by Fleetwood. The propane tank is original. How safe is it to keep this tank? Before I make any mods to it, do I need another tank? It looks mildly rusty here and there, but functions fine. I had to remove a solenoid when I installed the gas leak detector (newer model) - and got this done professionally.
Thanks for the nice comments, Lass! You should absolutely get your propane tank inspected by a professional. Rust is a potential danger, and propane (especially under pressure) is nothing to take chances with.
If you have a pressure regulator on your external propane tank as shown in the winter months, won't the on board tank empty first before allowing use of the external tank?
Good question, Jim. But you don’t leave both tanks on at the same time. We usually turn the on-board tank off... and use it as the “emergency spare” in case the external tank runs out. In that case, we turn the external tank off, then the on-board tank gets turned on.
I hacked my Q1200 before I ever turned it on. If RV tanks are regulated at exit, you will need to remove the regulator from the grill. Never more than one regulator in line, and always must have one. I also put a quick change on the regulator I removed so I can still use one pound tanks away from RV. I also added a quick change to the end of a standard 20 pound grill set up so I just plug it into grill while on the deck.
With your 15 psi regulator at he RV propane tank, Do you still need the regulator at the BBQ? To set up my BBQ, I have to remove the hose and regulator that comes with the BBQ, and install the quick connect directly to the BBQ. I have found your channel to be the best for tips and tricks, etc. Thanking you in advance.. Fred
Hi Fred. Thanks! Glad you enjoy our content (means a lot to hear that). And to answer your question, yes you still need the regulator at the grill. 15psi is WAY too much pressure for the grill to run at... would likely be like cooking over a blowtorch!! Your best bet would be to identify what pressure the built-in regulator that you have to remove was reducing the pressure to. If it's 11" WC (11" water column... which is about 0.5psi), then you'd be better off tee-ing in AFTER your RV's onboard regulator (which also brings it down to 11" WC) and feeding that directly into the grill. Hope this helps!
@@RVgeeks Thank you guys so much. I was at a BBQ store, and they (a KID basically ) said I did not need the regulator that came with the BBQ and the Firepit, because I had the 15 PSI regulator , as per your video. I tired it without, and could've melted all the snow up here. LOL Thanks again.
RV Geeks Thanks for your informative video. Like you, I wanted to take advantage of my large RV LP tank to supply gas to my Q1200 Weber grill. A friend helped me install a brass tee after the tank, before the RV’s LP regulator. When I noticed some oil drips from the grill’s control valve (same problem you had), I called Webber and they advised me that I had probably damaged the grill because it could not be hooked up to a large RV tank. When I explained my tee was BEFORE the RV’s regulator (so it was not double-regulated) she was sure I had damaged something and so would need install a new regulator/control assembly. Questions: 1. Have I damaged this grill by not having a 15 PSI regulator after my tee and before the grill? 2. I plan on installing your recommended high pressure 15 PSI regulator, which means I will have it double - regulated. I’m sure that you didn’t have any problems with your grill but, will this create any problems with my Q1200? 3. Do you think I really need to replace my regulator assembly? Thanks for your help with this. Jim
Hi Jim. Sorry to hear about your trouble. Having oil clog your grill's regulator is a real bummer. In response to your questions: (1) We can't imagine that you've damaged the grill in any way other than getting it gummed up with oily residue. When it happened to ours, we used some isopropyl alcohol to clean it out... making sure it was completely and thoroughly dry before we ran propane through it again... and it worked just fine. The oil didn't cause any real problem other than gumming things up and reducing flow. (2) We haven't noticed any problems with our grill since installing our system. Some people have thought theirs might not be grilling quite as hot as before installing the 15psi regulator... but we can't say we've noticed any difference. Be sure to get the same parts that we list in our post about installing this ( www.thervgeeks.com/propane/bbq-grill-connection/ ). Not all parts are created to provide full flow of propane... so you may find a similar one that has the same connections, but that restricts the amount of propane flowing through the system... thus you'll get lower heat. (3) As mentioned above... we'd try just cleaning it first. Your onboard propane tank's pressure shouldn't be significantly different than a disposable cylinder or portable 20-lb propane tank. And those connect directly to the Weber's controller/regulator without a problem. So clean it first to be sure it's not clogged before assuming it's been damaged. But we think you'll be fine. And with the 15psi regulator keeping the pressure in the hose down, you shouldn't have any issues with oil ever again! Hope this helps! And let us know how you make out!
@@RVgeeks Thanks for your quick/detailed response. The Weber lady said she had 20 years with Weber and knew that it would not work with an RV and that I had damaged it and caused the oil leak (that I needed to buy another part). It seems that they'd want this big RV market's extra sales and so would engineer & sell the parts required (make the profit$ for Weber vs. hassle the Customer). Maybe you can contact them and become their Consultant. I did not see your Parts List the first time I looked at this so I have installed a brass tee and 12' hose that screws directly into the Weber regulator (no quick disconnect). I'll be ordering the 15 PSI regulator you recommend and then clean off the oil and... should be good to go. You provide us beginners a great service, thanks again!
Our pleasure, Jim. It is strange that the Weber employee was so certain you’d damaged the controller. It’s possible she’s assuming the oil will damage something in it... but that wasn’t our experience. Removing it and pouring some rubbing alcohol in, shaking it up, and draining it got it all out and it worked fine ever after. If nothing else, it’s worth the try rather than replacing the controller. Please let us know how you make out!
@@RVgeeks Agree. I think she's been told for 20 years that it will NOT work with a big RV LP tank and that if this is done, it will damage the Weber. Again, I do not understand the Weber business strategy on this anti-RV policy and their adamant employee training. I'll be ordering the regulator, doing the cleaning and then let you know.
This gas control valve replaces the valve with your Olympian 5500 RV grill (CAM57305 - sold separately). And it lets you use a propane supply on an RV or trailer that has a built-in Quick-Connect propane connection
Technically, hoses rated for over normal operating pressure is considered a high pressure LP hose. Operating system components and hoses only need to be rated at around 1/2 psi.
Curious if it would be safer with black pipe or copper under and through the coach. Or even the yellow gas pipe. Just because the rubber hose can deteriorate over time.
Hi Kevin. Might be a more robust installation that way. But it would be a lot more difficult to install. Ours has been working great for many years without a problem though, so this seems like a pretty good compromise.
i notice that your propane goes thru 2 regulators now, the second being the bbq's regulator, does this impede flow for the grill itself? or do you still get a nice high flame? thanks, Richard
Flame is great! The first (red) regulator is much higher pressure - 15 PSI - than the second one, allowing plenty of pressure for the grill. The red regulator is just a step-down to the final pressure the grill requires.
Thanks for all the tips. You talk about oil damaging the grill regulator when using high pressure gas. Can the regulator be cleaned or do you have to buy a new one?
GREAT information, as usual, with great clarity. I also noticed the use of the two regulators and was going to question you on this use, but you gave a Super detailed explanation in your reply to someone else. Did you figure this out yourself or was there someone else involved in the process? Thanks. Later...Terry
Thanks Terry! We mostly figured out the whole set-up ourselves, with the exception of the fact that high pressure can cause oil to accumulate in long propane hoses. The first time we ever heard an explanation of where that oily build-up had come from was when we went to connect our RV to an external propane tank the winter we spent up north. The local propane dealer who sold us the parts we needed for that told us that we'd need a regulator on the big external tank (which you can see briefly in this video and in detail in our video about that topic) because we needed a fairly long hose to reach the RV. When he told us about high-pressure propane causing oil build-up in long runs of hose, a light bulb went off, since we'd had that then-mysterious problem once before, but had no idea why. We thought we'd just gotten a bad batch of propane. ;-) When it comes to exactly what regulators we used to reach the grill, we chose the 15 PSI after some experimenting. We'd first tried a standard 11" water column unit, but the grill would not stay lit, since we were double regulating (TWO 11" water column units in the same line). It turns out that we needed to "step down" by bringing the pressure down part way to prevent the oil, then regulating at the grill to the required level. As we mentioned, if the regulator had been easy to remove from the grill, we could instead have simply moved it to the other end of the hose, right off the T and only needed one instead of two. We're always learning! :)
Thank you for this detailed information! Got all the necessary parts from your website´s links. Quick question though: with the grill adaption to the tee, that is between the tank and the regulator, once you open the tank´s valve is there no gas escaping through the grill´s hose? If not, is it not escaping because the quick adapter´s valve, or would it be enough without that quick adapter to avoid gas escaping (or would I need then to connect and disconnect it all the time)? Thanks in advance!
Good question, Alfredo. Yes, the quick-connector by the grill has a shutoff so that propane doesn't leak when you disconnect the grill from it. We've also been meaning to install another shutoff valve between the tee and the 12' hose coming across to the grill... so that, when needed, we could shut off the flow of propane in that hose, without also having to turn off the whole RV's tank. That would also add another layer of safety to ensure no leaks. But, even without it, we haven't had a problem.
Hi Guys! I had tried this exact setup and wasn't getting any propane flow to my grill...conversely I started smelling propane leaking from somewhere (abort, abort!). Looking at this video again, it looks like there is another regulator on the grill side of the quick connect, is that correct? I really want to do this not just because of the convenience, but those little disposable green tanks are bad for the environment! Thank you.
So sorry we just saw your comment! Sorry for the delayed reply. Yes, there is indeed a regulator built onto the grill. That’s required, and comes with the grill, because the propane feeding into it is still too high pressure. The red step-down 15 psi regulator we installed over near the tank simply reduces the huge pressure in the tank to a more modest level. But it’s still not low enough for the grill, which requires the same psi as most other RV appliances. That pressure is commonly known as “11 inches water column” which equates to approximately 0.5 psi.
how does your grill work if it has a regulator on the feed side and a regulator on the grill itself? I already have a grill quick connect on MY RV after the house propane tank regulator. I was under the impression that you had to remove the grill regulator for this to work. I have the same weber q grill
With the propane line Tee'd in from the tank side of the RV's main regulator, it's coming from the high-pressure side. allows us to keep the original Weber regulator in place. It we were to tap in on the downstream (RV side) of the regulator, then we would indeed have to remove the grill's regulator for it to work. The red 15 PSI regulator added into the line simply steps down the very high pressure in the tank, which prevents oil buildup in the long line running over to the grill.
Very informative video! I don't have any experience with propane so this video was very helpful and it looks like an excellent alternative to those small bottles. I am wondering though about how much your RV propane tank holds and how long that amount of propane will last you? How often do you have refill it? Thanks for the terrific videos! I can't wait to get started RVing!
If I have no need of connecting an large external tank, would there be a problem with connecting on the regulated side of the RV propane tank and not having to install the additional regulator?
Hi Brian! Because the RV’s main regulator drops of pressure down to 11 inch water column, which is about 0.4 psi, the only way you can do that is to remove the regulator from the grill. That’s because the grill’s regulator is expecting high pressure, and having two 11 inch water column regulators in line causes the “double regulation“ problem and the grill won’t have enough pressure to work.
The method in which your have propane going from the tank and through a regulator, then down the line to the BBQ and then through a second regulator at the BBQ, doesn't that pose an issue with the amount of propane thet you have going into the BBQ for a proper flame setting? Thanks
Hi Michael. Great question! The reason it's not a problem is because the red 15 PSI regulator we installed at the tank provides FAR more pressure than the grill needs to operate (it uses less than 1 PSI). That acts as a "step-down" regulator to prevent oily buid-up in the long run of hose over to the grill, while still allowing more than enough pressure for the grill to work.
Hi guys, Our RV has a quick connect built into it already and the grill we have has a regulator that is easily removed but it also controls our flame adjustment. We have read that we can not use the regulator because the quick connect on the RV is already a low pressure connection. We have seen flame controls sold separately and are wondering is this the way we would go about connecting our grill or should we just replace our grill with one that does not need a regulator? Hope this question makes sense lol. Thanks.
We're pretty sure that just about all (if not all) small grills have regulators on them. Because of that, we can't imagine that the grill port on your RV isn't designed to work with them. Have you tried it yet to see if it works? It might be plumbed to high pressure.
We have not tried it yet, and we thought the same about most portable grills having a regulator, but when we looked on the forums most people said the quick connect is a low pressure port on our Winnebago and we would not be able to connect to a grill that has a regulator. Maybe it's a brand specific issue. Thanks for your reply I think we are going to just play it safe and carry the 1lb bottles for now. We'll contact Winnebago and see what they have to say about it and let you know if we find out any info.
Contacting Winnebago sounds like a good plan, but if you want to just connect it (assuming you have a hose), there's no harm in trying. If there's an issue with double regulation, it just won't light... or will light and then go out. Let us know how you make out.
I think we are always a little too cautious, we were afraid of damaging the grill or RV. We are taking the RV out for this weekend and we'll try it out. Thanks for your help.
Hi guys, We spoke to Winnebago this morning and they said the quick connect port is a low pressure connection and that we would have to use a grill that is designed for low pressure or we could remove our regulator on our grill. We went on irv2 and it sounds like it's not just Winnebago that has it set up this way and most people say they do remove Thierry regulator and it works fine but we are apparently the oddballs that have our temperature control attached to our regulator lol. Just thought we would pass you the info. We are not sure how comfortable we are trying to modify our grill if it's really not meant to be used this way. So we'll probably just use bottles till the thing dies. Thanks again for your help and input we always appreciate your insight.
I just purchased a new travel trailer that has the quick connect under the frame. I am being told that it will not work on my weber q1200 like yours because it would be double regulated. do you have any problem with that or did you modify in any way. It looks like you kept the regulator on the grill as well as the regulator off the tee. Thanks, Tim
Mike... that’s true if the output from the first regulator isn’t high enough to be input to the second one. The 15psi regulator at the tee is plenty of pressure as input for the grill’s regulator. No double regulation problem.
My only word of caution would be that squirrels like to chew on rubber propane hoses. With the hose exposed to the outside this makes this a little vulnerable to damage. We have pretty much the same setup but I installed a valve off the extend a stay so that the grill hose is not pressurized.
Great idea. We've been thinking about the same thing, but since we're full-time, we always have the grill line powered up (we use it about every other day all year round) and when we leave the RV for any extended period, we shut off the main propane valve on the tank itself. If we do add a valve there, we'll be sure to report back! Thanks. :)
Great question, Emmett! The unregulated propane comes out of the tank at very high pressure (can easily exceed 100 PSI), then goes through the red 15 PSI regulator as kind of a "step-down" for the trip across to the other side of the RV in the long hose. That reduction to 15 PSI prevents the accumulation of oil in that long run of hose. But 15 PSI isn't nearly low enough for the grill which runs on about 0.5 PSI. That second regulator on the grill takers care of that, and the 15 PSI feeding it is plenty to get the job done. Works like a charm.
I have that same grill. Is the regulator on the grill not sufficient? My tank is on the passenger side of my rig, and already under my patio awning, so 6 feet of hose will be plenty. My fish cooker also has its own regulator. What say you?
It would indeed create a problem if they were both low-pressure regulators (about 0.5 PSI, like the one on the grill itself). But the red one is a 15PSI regulator that steps down the pressure while still leaving plenty to operate the grill.
QUESTION: It looks like your grill has a built in regulator, which would make double regulators, one on the grill and one in you plumbing at the bottle, am I missing something?
Hi Wayne! There are two regulators, but the first one, the red one, is 15 psi to act as a step down regulator. The one on the grill is far lower. If the red one were the same type as the one on the grill, we would indeed have double regulation, and the grill wouldn’t work. But the 15 psi is still plenty high enough to get enough pressure to the grill.
This is a great video and I like all the details you added, I do have one question or maybe I'm just not seeing it, but what type of fitting was used to connect the two extension hoses together? I'm planning to implement this mod on my Big Horn 5th wheel this spring. Thanx
+Jean Lavoie Thanks Jean! The two extension hoses connect together with no special fitting needed. One end of each is female and the other ends are the matching male fitting, so they connect right up no problem!
I see there is still the factory regulator on the grill. My grill has the regulator on the hose of the grill. So it looks like I need a quick connector on my propane grill hose that keeps the grill regulator it came with... In other words, the RV regulator and the grill regulator both need to be in place?
Whether the grill’s own regulator is needed or not depends on whether your propane line comes directly off the RV’s propane tank (as ours does), or through the RV’s whole-house regulator. Since we plumbed our “T” upstream/before the whole-house regulator, the hose to the grill is carrying high-pressure propane, and needs to be regulated down at the grill. (The red step-down regulator we installed is still far too high pressure for the grill.) If your grill line taps into the system downstream/after the whole-house regulator, the grill will need to have its regulator removed, otherwise you’ll be double-regulating it, and there won’t be enough pressure for the grill to run. Hope this makes sense, and helps.
The supply line comes after the whole house regulator, but I think that is a high pressure regulator. Looks like I will first try to connect with the factor LOW pressure regulator on the grill. The grill is made to connect directly to an LP tank, the large type, not the tiny portable camping bottles.
Hmm. The whole house regulator is 2 stage regulator so then it only allows about .5 psi, so looks like you told me correct. Will connect without a regulator and see how this works. Thanks.
You are 100% correct. Worked perfect without the in line single stage regulator on the grill because the whole house RV regulator was putting out the correct pressure (low pressure). No big yellow flames on my grill. Temp isnperdect. Thanks.
You're running propane through a regulator twice? Are you getting any pressure at the appliance? Doesn't that reduce your propane pressure to the point of it not burning at capacity?
As we said in the video, yes, we're running through two regulators, and it works perfectly. The reason is that the commonly referred-to "double regulation" problem happens when you use two 11" WC (water column... the standard appliance regulator that equals about 0.5 PSI). We're not doing that. The first regulator is 15 PSI, about 30 times more pressure than the one on the grill. That supplies plenty of pressure to the grill's regulator, and is simply in place to reduce tank pressure (which can typically run well over 100 PSI) down in the long hose from the tank to the grill. That's only needed to prevent oily build-up, which can happen (and clog the grill's regulator) when running extremely high pressure over a long run. It's simply a step-down, not double regulation.
Hello! Thanks for your video. I have the same Weber Grill and I was trying to connect a 20lb tank to it instead of using the 1lb small tanks. I bought the host for the 20lb to the Weber Q Grill, but for some reason, even though the grill is in the OFF position, gas is still coming through. The Weber Q1200 has a regulator on it, but do I still need another regulator on the Hose between the 20lb tank and Weber Grill (again, the same grill that you have)? Thanks!
Glad the video was helpful. First, in response to your question, no... you shouldn't need any other regulator between the 20lb tank and your grill. The grill's regulator is expecting the high-pressure propane from either the disposable tank or the 20#, so that part is fine. The gas still running/leaking part... that's clearly an issue! Can you tell WHERE it seems to be leaking from? Is it literally coming through the regulator and running out the burner holes? Or is it leaking somewhere else? You might want to mix some dish soap into a cup of water and pour that over the connections... if it bubbles, you've found leaking. But if the gas is coming THROUGH the regulator on the grill, even with the regulator turned off completely... it sounds like that regulator has failed and/or is faulty. If it's new, we'd return it and get a new one. If it's older... we'd try replacing the regulator. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the video. I picked up our new RV yesterday and was told not to have a regulator on the BBQ since there is one on the TV and it would be too much. What do you think?
It all depends on whether you’re tapping into the propane for the grill prior to, or downstream, of the RV’s regulator. The RV regulator brings pressure down to the correct level for running your grill without an additional regulator. If, however, you have your system set up like we do, with the hose going over to the grill coming from the high-pressure side of the regulator (the side closest to the propane tank), you absolutely do need a regulator on the grill itself.
this is a great video about propane use even if you are not using it in the exact set-up you have. Thanks for some good solid information. You wouldn't by chance be an engineer would you?
I watched your install video a few years ago. I have the same bbq as well. I tubed in a 1/2” stainless tubing line. I had the oil problem. If I hook a 1lb bottle it gets hot. From the 15 psi reg it won’t heat up. Getting a little frustrated. Any ideas?
The grill regulator wants to see tank pressure, not 15psi. Some regulators which require tank pressure will operate on less than tank pressure, and some will not, or they will work erratically. RV LP systems are my business. I'd just carry a 20lb tank for use with the grill and get the 5' adaptor hose made for that application. Cheap and simple.
Your videos have been very helpful to me. Following this question from a FB group I purchased the same setup, but without the yellow tape. Question about the connection between the Cylinder thread x ¼" Male Pipe Thread Adapter and the male quick connect. This is the only connection that does not have a gasket, it would not screw in very far even if there had been a gasket and it leaked when I tested it. Will the yellow tape be sufficient or is there supposed to be an o-ring or gasket? Do I need the yellow pipe tape with the gasket connections too?
Hi Min. That connection between the male side of the quick connect and the 1"x20 Male Thread to 1/4" Female NPT thread... it should screw in fairly far (might take some extra oomph), but we would definitely use the yellow PFTE tape on it to be sure it didn't leak. And we taped all of the other connections EXCEPT the 1"x20 male-to-female connections (like between two sections of hose), since those have O-rings and gaskets and should seal tightly. If that's not what you're asking about, though, let us know.
Is the first regulator a special kind that still keeps the pressure high enough for the barbecue's regulator to work with? I only use a short line with the stay-a-while as that is where my camp/curb side is located. I do need to figure out a connection for my Big Buddy Heater with a 20 ft run to an outside location. I have a tee behind the stove for it inside the RV.
Exactly! The 15 PSI regulator is perfect for reducing the pressure enough to prevent oil build-up in a long hose, but high enough to reach and power the grill with the stock built-in regulator in place (so no mod needed on the grill). Since your tank is on the curb side, you shouldn't need to worry about oil building up in the very short line to the grill, so the 15 PSI regulator shouldn't be needed (it's only long lengths of hose where high pressure creates the oil). If your Big Buddy has a regulator built in, it's possible that it won't run off the stove line.. If the line to the stove is already regulated (that's the way ours is, with the entire RV regulated to 11" water column right at the RV's main tank), and the heater also has a built-in regulator (we're almost certain that it does), double regulation might be a problem.
RVgeeks Hi and thanks for helping. My Big Buddy works fine in the RV and has since I installed the Tee at the stove. It uses the RV's regulator as the line in on the Big Buddy is unregulated. It has one for the two little one pound bottles I usually use when away from the RV. But I'm looking to use the heater further away and use the RV's tank. I will need two regulators, the 15" w.c. and an 11" w.c. at the heater.
Nice video but I just confused myself by looking at way to many comments. So I have a quick connect valve that came installed on my trailer. I purchased the Weber Q2200 grill. Same as your just differnt BTU's I believe. I would like to just connect a 12" quick connect hose hose from the trailer to the grill so I can use the trailers propane but move away from trailer. I also would like to leave the regulator on the bbq in case I need to use it at home with the small propane bottles. I purchased a Camco quick connect 12' extension hose and a Camco low pressure 1/4 male NPT qucik connect fitting. What part should work coming from the bbq regulator so I can use the quick connect set up? You guys are awesome!!!
LOL! You're not alone, Stefanie... it can get REALLY confusing. We're not sure what part you'll need to do what you want... but we CAN tell you that it likely won't work the way you want it to. Almost every RV manufacturer that we know of that includes a propane quick-connect for you to connect a grill to has that quick-connect in the LOW pressure propane line (i.e. downstream/after the onboard propane regulator that drops the propane pressure to just 11" water column, or 0.5psi). Which means you need to remove the regulator from any grill you connect to it. Otherwise, there's not enough pressure coming from the RV to get the grill's regulator to open up and allow flow. Before buying any more parts, you may want to either sleuth out where the line that the factory-installed quick-connect is installed in goes (so you can figure out if it's got high- or low-pressure propane) OR contact your RV manufacturer and ask. Hope this helps!
Thanks for sharing this video. Could you have tapped off the water heater of refrigerator? That is what I have been thinking of because both are on the passenger side, any advice?
You can tap into any accessible propane supply that you feel comfortable and confident in T-ing into. Just be aware that the propane to both the water heater & fridge (and everything else on board) has already been regulated down to 11" water column. That means that you will almost certainly have to remove the regulator that came on the grill for this to work, because having two 11" water column regulators in line will not likely provide enough pressure to run the grill.
+RVgeeks: I'm a little slow today, guys...Please bear with me. How is that different from the setup you show in your video? You have a regulator at the tee, and another on your grill.
Southbound Ahhhh.... got it. The difference is that the regulator we installed coming off the T (the red one in the video), is 15 PSI. The regulator that came on the grill is 11" water column, which equals only about 0.4 PSI.... much less pressure. The main regulator going into the RV is also 11" water column, so that means that if you tap into any line further downstream (like near the fridge or water heater), that propane is already regulated way down. So if you simply tap into that very-low-pressure source, the additional regulator on the grill will probably prevent there from being enough pressure for the grill to operate, if it even allows any flow at all. This is the situation we had when we first tried experimenting with regulators. We added an 11" water column regulator at the T (where the red one is now) and that, combined with the second 11" water column unit that comes on the grill, brought the pressure down so low that the grill wouldn't light. But 15 PSI at the T is plenty of pressure to allow the propane reach the grill's regulator. Hope this helps! :)
Hmmm. Great question, Jean. We're not sure about that. It might not take too much length though, and we're pretty sure that the exposure to cold air exacerbates the problem. It seems like the hoses are either quite short (propane tank on the curb/grill side) or pretty long (tank on the driver's side). We're only making a slightly educated guess here, but if the hose is more than about 8-10 feet, and it's being used in the winter, we'd guess that the oil build-up problem would be more likely. Sorry we're not 100% sure on this one.
Hi Scott! It’s needed because we have such a long run of hose from the propane tank to the grill. Very high pressure coming directly out of the propane tank and running down a long hose tends to build up oil in it which gums up the grill. That red step-down regulator lowers the pressure enough to prevent the oil, but still allows enough pressure for the grill to operate properly.
How did you find this works with having 2 regulators. I was told you had to remove the regulator on the bbq if going through the RV 2 stage regulator. I see you are going through the single stage that you added and the bbq reg.
This worked great, because the first regulator (the red one we installed right above the Extend-a-Stay) only brings the pressure down to 15 PSI. Since that's far lower than 11 inches water column (which only equals about 0.4 PSI), there was plenty of pressure to power the grill with its original regulator still in place. We originally tried using an 11" water column regulator at the T (instead of the 15 PSI unit) and indeed there was not enough pressure to keep the grill lit because of double regulation. So the 15PSI unit is low enough to prevent oil from forming in the hose, but high enough to avoid having to remove the grill's built-in regulator (which would have been a challenge on this particular grill).
I have something similar hooked up in my rv but my Weber does not work properly with 2 regulators one on the Bar B Que and the other at the source. I asked Weber and they said you can't have two regulators before the gas enters the Bar B Que so now I am confused?? Any thoughts?
Hi Paul! Great question. Since double-regulating can indeed cause the exact problem you're having, we do get questions about how our system works so well with two regulators. The confusion is caused by the PSI of the regulators. Grills and other appliances, like water heaters, RV fridges, etc, run off a specific PSI level that's referred to as "11 inches water column" which equates to about 0.5 PSI. The main regulator on the RV is 11" WC, and so is the one that came built onto the grill. If you try to go through TWO of those, that is the very definition of double regulation, and will prevent the grill from getting enough propane flow. The difference in our case is the PSI level of the red regulator we installed near the tank. First, it's on the TANK side of the RV's whole-house regulator, which means it's getting full (very high) unregulated pressure. Second, it's a 15 PSI regulator, not 11" WC. That 15 PSI is about 30 times higher than the grill's regulator (which again is about 0.5), and PLENTY of pressure to carry more than enough propane down our long hose and over to the grill. It's also far higher than the grill can run on, so the grill's 11" WC regulator is still required. With that 15 PSI regulator in line, it prevents the oily build-up that VERY high pressure can cause over a long run, but still provides plenty of pressure to the grill's regulator. Hope this isn't too much detail, and is clear enough!
This is a great video that I have looked at before. I have a new RV and a question. How long is too long for the hose to need the added regulator. My tank is on the passenger side and a 12' hose will get me to the BBQ and/or the fire pit we use. Would I still need the 2nd reg in your expert opinion??
Hi Lynn. Congrats on the new RV! We wish we had an answer to the question of "how long is too long?" We had our problem with twice that length of hose (12' hose to get across the RV from driver to passenger side, then another 12' hose to extend the grill away from the RV). So it's POSSIBLE that a single 12' hose won't have the problem. Some of that may depend on if you plan to leave the 12' hose connected to the tank permanently... or if you're going to remove it regularly when breaking camp. If leaving it on... it's more likely to be an issue (it seems to be a problem of extended time with the hose exposed to high pressure propane... particularly when the ambient temps drop). If you'll be disconnecting it on any regular basis... it will probably be fine without the regulator. But we can't be 100% sure.
@@RVgeeks Thanks for the quick response. I am not full time so will most likely disconnect the hose when we pack up. Probably the most would be a 2 week stay. I appreciate your input and enjoy watching you on the road. I look forward to the RVers and seeing more of your travels. Best to you.
So I am working on the Extend-a-stay (EAS) and shock ran into a problem. The propane tank on my Tiffin Phaeton is mounted so the end of the tank is what I see from the storage door. The connection point for the EAS has a hose to the main regulator making it difficult to mount the EAS as you and other show. I'll be using the red 15 PSI regulator but the question is - can this regulator be mounted in any position? Don't see a vent as in the main unit. I may need to be creative to get this in the bay but thought I'd ask your opinion. I have a photo but don't see how to send it to you?! Thanks for your assistance.
Hi Lynn. Sorry to hear you're having trouble... certainly sounds like Tiffin didn't make this easy for you! We're not at the RV to be able to look closely at our 15psi regulator to know if it has a vent. But we'd assume it does (even if it's not all that obvious), since it's pretty standard for a regulator. That said, when mounting a regulator, you either need to keep it covered, or mount it with the vent pointing downward... to keep rain & other debris from getting in. We don't recall paying any particular attention to how we mounted ours, since it's inside a compartment where it's unlikely to get rained on... and is mounted high enough up not to get sprayed from wet roads, etc. So if yours is similar, we'd bet you'd be OK with mounting it in whatever direction you need in order to fit it in. Hope this helps!
@@RVgeeks Thanks again. You guys are a great help. I'll check it more carefully but I believe it is well covered. Still trying various angles to get it in there!!
I have a camper with dual propane tanks. The propane lines are set up similar to what you did in your video, with a dedicated line running to quick connect for outdoor grill station. I am thinking of changing the configuration to use an auto changeover regulator for all of the camper's appliances. Any idea how I would split out a line to the grill station using dual propane tanks and an auto changeover regulator?
Hi Mike... sorry for the delayed response. We lost track of this comment! How you do it would depend on where your current BBQ quick-connect line is plumbed. Does it come AFTER (downstream of) the RV's regulator? If so... it should be easy to just replace it with the auto-changeover regulator and nothing else needs to be touched. But if your current "T" is placed BEFORE (upstream, closer to the tank) from your current regulator, you'd have to make some changes. You'd probably want to move the "T" to AFTER the changeover regulator (so you'd have the advantage of the propane supply for the BBQ auto-changing along with the rest of the RV) and you'd likely need to remove the regulator from your BBQ grill. The output from the RV's regulator will be too low to be an input to the grill.... so your grill would stop working. But if your grill is already a low-pressure unit, because it's getting it's propane fed by the onboard RV regulator, you should be fine. Hope this helps... and makes sense! 😉
Hi Scott. Sorry to hear you had the dreaded "propane oil" problem. Before we came up with this solution, we had it as well. We didn't replace our hoses after we added the 15psi regulator at the propane tank side... we installed a propane filter (like this one on Amazon: amzn.to/3DGgS6a ) at the grill end. That way, any remaining oil in the hose got caught before it gummed up the grill regulator (which we removed from the grill and drained, though replacing it would probably be easier, LOL!). After about a year of operating things with the new regulator at the tank end and the filter at the grill end, we removed the filter and haven't had any problem since.
Question for you, i thought of doing that but i figured out that there would be two regulators in line. One on the BBQ and the other you installed at the tank end. Does that reduce it too much?
Hey Mike! Great question. Two regulators MIGHT be too much of a pressure reduction, depending on which type you use. Here are some clarifying notes about our regulators and why we set them up the way we did. We mentioned that the main one going into the RV is 11" water column. That is a standard that just about all appliances use, including the grill. So the small built-in regulator on the grill is also 11' water column. As we mentioned, the only reason we needed to add in regulation coming off the T is to prevent the oily build-up that can occur in the long hose. But the reason we used a 15 PSI unit at the T (rather than a standard 11″ water column model) is that there wouldn’t be enough pressure to run the grill due to double regulation (having TWO 11″ water column units won’t work). We know first-hand on this one, since that was one of the first things we tried. LOL So the 15 PSI regulator at the T reduces the pressure enough to prevent oil build-up, while still providing enough input pressure for the grill’s built-in regulator. On some grills, the built-in regulator can be removed, as long as you're connecting to a line that's already regulated down to 11" water column. But in some cases, such as ours, the one on the grill is not easily removable without modification (it's part of the on/off/flow control). If it had been easily removable, we could have simply removed it and moved it to the far end of the hose (coming right off the T), eliminating the need for the extra 15 psi regulator. If we had a grill with an easily-removable regulator, and we NEVER intended to connect to external propane, we could also have connected the Extend-a-Stay downstream of the RVs main regulator, and removed the grill's regulator completely. That would send already-regulated (11" water column) propane directly across to the grill, which would now need no further regulation. Of course this would REQUIRE the removal of the grill's regulator, since, as mentioned, installing TWO 11" water column regulators in one line will prevent the grill from receiving enough pressure to operate. Hope this is clear!
Peter, what was the performance problem that developed with the grill before you put the regulator inline and found the oil in the regulator? I have mine basically the same way, a 15PSI regulator before a 15 foot hose that will connect to my Weber Q2000 just before the regulator. I wrote Weber and they say since my burner will only light half way around until I brush the burner with a metal brush back towards the inlet, that it may be a double regulated pressure situation. The burner is clean as a whistle. Does the same on the small bottle of propane also. Thanks.
Hi Jerry! When we had oil in the grill’s regulator, the grill showed low flame (not hot enough to grill), it would sputter, and sometimes would go out completely. We don’t recall it ever exhibiting the problem you’re describing, but that could be because the Q1000 is smaller. If your grill is having the exact same problem when you use the small bottle of propane or when you’re hooked to the RV’s onboard tank, we’d say that you’re definitely having an issue with the regulator on the grill itself... and it’s certainly possible that it has oil in it... or it’s faulty. If it was a “double-regulation” issue, it should work normally when you run it off the small bottle, since there’s not a second regulator then. Hope that helps!
Will I need your regulator to hook up a propane powered wok with this from amazon? Propane Brass 4 Port Tee Kit Propane Brass Tee Adapter Kit 5FT and 12FT Stainless Braided Hoses Allow for Connection Between Auxiliary Propane Cylinder and Propane Appliances for Tank RV Camping
The determining factor in whether you need to add a step-down regulator (like the red 15 PSI model we used) is the length of the hose you're adding on the high-pressure side of the RV's regulator. The longer the hose, the more likely that high-pressure propane will cause oil to form in the line. The shorter the hose, the less likely that oily problem is, so no additional regulator should be needed. Our 12' hose required the regulator. Just be sure that if you're Tee-ing into the propane BEFORE (upstream) of the RV's whole-house regulator, like we did, that the wok comes equipped with a built-in regulator (similar to most small grills).
Hi there, i just have a question why you didn't just connect the new line going to the bbq to the existing propane regulator already there instead of getting a new one?
The onboard regulator brings the pressure way down to a level that would not allow it enough pressure to feed the grill all the way on the other side of the RV. The additional regulator we added has considerably higher pressure, but still far less than the tank pressure with no regulator at all.
@@blackincawston If the run of hose is going to be more than a few feet, the addition of a 15PSI regulator, like the one we added, will prevent the oily build up over time that we experienced.
No problem at all! That’s because the 15 PSI regulator at the tank is still MUCH higher than the one at the grill. So it acts as a step-down regulator to prevent oil buildup in the long hose, while still providing plenty of pressure for the grill.
Interesting. Trying to figure out if it will be a problem with the coach I just bought. Grand design 265bh. It has an lp quick connect, but have heard it may be a problem running through 2 regs
@@core8967 You could try contacting Grand Design to ask them if the propane supply to the quick connect is high/low pressure. But our guess would be that it's low pressure (i.e. after/downstream from the onboard pressure regulator) and that it's intended to be used with a grill that doesn't have a regulator. We haven't heard of any RV manufacturer that supplies high pressure propane to the factory-installed quick connects.
Great video. I just picked up a Jayco Travel Trailer and it's already pre-plumbed with the quick release plug in the back. I was looking through your links and can't quite figure out the combination I need to make mine work. I need to go from the quick connect that's already there, to get adapted to the normal 20lb propane connection that my grill has. Any suggestions to links on what I'd need to do that. I must need more than 1 or 2 things, because I can normally come up with the combo browsing Amazon, but not happening today.
Oh boy, Kraig. Can’t help you specifically on this, but a couple of things to consider. First, is that propane connection high or low pressure (before/after the onboard regulator). Because if it’s LOW pressure, you’ll need to consider that and ensure you remove the regulator from the grill. And you’ll need to know because the connectors for high pressure quick releases are different than low pressure ones, so you’ll need to be sure to get the right adapter or else it won’t work. Sorry we can’t be more help!
Yeah, I'm an idiot. I didn't realize how it connected to my current grill, I assumed it was a solid connection, but it wasn't. I threaded off the hose with the regulator, and installed a line I got on amazon and it worked like butter. I just needed a "T" for my quick coupler gas line, so I ordered one of those, and now I can have my grill and my stove burning at the same time. Thanks for the info.
Silly question and maybe I missed it. But the grill has a regulator as well, so would you not be double regulating the propane pressure here? Also if I were to remove the male quick connect from the grill, could I use the lithe green bottles again if needed?
Great question! The only problem you'd have with double regulation is using two of the typical 11" water column regulators, which equals about 0.5 PSI and are the same type that come fitted to the grill. We overcame that problem by using a 15 PSI regulator where the hose comes out of the RV's tank. That is low enough pressure to prevent the oily build-up in the hose, but plenty strong enough pressure to avoid a double regulation issue. And yes, you can easily remove the quick-connect from the grill any time you'd like to use the little bottles again, such as during a trip away from the RV.
RVgeeks - I have a class A that has a port on the passenger side for just this use. I purchased and hooked up everything in your post here from that port to the grill (same grill as yours). I had no pressure at all. So I took the hose and connectors apart and started putting them on, opening the gas on each one to see where the flow stops. It stopped with the hose. I get nothing coming from the hose when I open the gas. I tested this by opening the line slowly and listening for the gas, but nothing happens. What do you recommend? (I'm using all the parts from this posting). As always, thank you for your help. These posts really help people like me.
Hi Daniel! We're pretty sure that the first problem your having is the connection on the hose. Some have a little plunger in the end that seals when not connected to another fitting. That means the fitting that goes into it has to include the pin that pushes into the opposing fitting to allow propane to flow. The end of the hose is self-sealing, and needs that pin to push into it to open the flow. Also, it's quite possible that even if you get the propane to flow, it might not work with your port. If your port is already regulated down to 11" WC (eleven inches water column, or standard operating pressure), you'll either need to remove the regulator on you grill (we know... it's part of the control knob so not easy to do), or get a grill with no regulator on it. You should be able to check with your manufacturer to find out if the port is already regulated to 11" WC. If it is, a non regulated grill is required to prevent double regulation, which limits the flow below what the grill requires to operate. Hope this isn't too confusing, and hope it helps.
@@RVgeeks You were right on the issue... I actually just took a small drill bit and drilled out the plunger part and then removed the regulator ... works every time. Thanks all.
Hi and thanks for the demonstration! I’m curious if you have ever dealt with situations where spacing is much tighter between the vapor exit and the regulator box such as on a Coachmen Freelander (Class C)? The tank appears to be the same as yours, however it appears that I would literally need to cut into or relocate the regulator box cover in order to make something work since there appears to be only about 1 inch of spacing between the two. Any advice would be appreciated. I can also send a photo upon request. Thanks.
Brandon Guffey Hi Brandon! We’ve only ever done this on our own Class A, with (obviously) plenty of extra room to work with. We know that with some Class Cs and other smaller rigs, space can be at a real premium. We think you you probably only have two options… One would be to move the onboard regulator to make room for the Extend-A-Stay, assuming you have room to do that. The other option would be to tee in (probably using a regular T fitting, and not an Extend-A-Stay) after the regulator, then use a grill that specifically can handle working with the lower pressure of the already regulated propane. That would probably mean finding a grill that did not have a regulator on it, and was designed to work off fully regulated house RV pressure. Hope this helps a bit.
FOR MORE COMPLETE DETAILS AND A PARTS DIAGRAM, VIEW THE POST ON OUR WEBSITE:
www.thervgeeks.com/how-to-connect-a-gas-grill-to-an-rv/
Great idea and video! When clicking on the link above, it goes to a page that says "No Posts Found". Searching that page shows no hits for bbq. Is there another page that has the " MORE COMPLETE DETAILS AND A PARTS DIAGRAM" ?
@@tomrmalcolm Thanks for the heads up, and sorry for the problem. We have corrected the link, so you should be able to see all the parts. www.thervgeeks.com/how-to-connect-a-gas-grill-to-an-rv/
I had watched your video due to the email you send us but needed to come to youtube so i can give you a thumbs up! Always useful stuff, thank you so much.
Thanks Steve!
Nice setup and explanation Peter. I've thought of doing this but thought it would limit where I could setup the grill. Your long hose setup solves that problem. I would also use it for my Little Buddy Heater which also uses canisters. How lucky am I to have had the privilege of sharing meat from your grill.
Thanks Brian. That extra 12' length of hose really helps, allowing us to set up anywhere alongside the RV. We can also move the barbecue anywhere we want by removing the male quick connect on the grill and using a canister (although we never do, as we always set up somewhere along the curb side of the rig anyway). We have a very similar set-up for our Kozy World heater, with a quick connect on each end of the hose so we can coil it up and put it away when not in use. We'll probably be using it when we see you, so we'll have to compare notes as we "share meat" LOL
The background music is freaking awesome. Makes me wanna get my own RV just to figure out and do what you all did.
Thanks so much! That piano piece is called “Fifth Avenue Stroll” and comes in iMovie editing software.
Thank you so much! I was told by a propane "expert" that what you were doing was not possible (he told me you could not have a regulated propane line go into another regulator because "it would not have enough pressure to go through the second regulator")... Guess he was full of gas. And many thanks for the parts list so that I could see what parts I needed and that they actually exist.
+Barney Gargle LOL Guess we've been eating our meals raw without realizing it. 😉 The only thing he's right about is that two 11" water column regulators would prevent there from behind enough pressure. Good thing we used that 15 PSI unit for the first one.
I've been wondering about this very point for years! My question is this - what psi is the regulator on the onboard propane tank for my class C (or any RV for that matter)? It splits up to feed my refrig, cooktop, furnace and generator. But I'm removing the generator. If I convert the propane line to the generator to a quick connect, do I then have to remove the regulator in the Weber Q grill as is shown in other videos? When I saw you had 2 regulators (the new 15 psi on coming off your stay awhile and one on your grill) I was wondering how that works, which you have answered. So I assume I'd have to remove the regulator on the grill when hooking up to the quick connect. If using a tank then I'd have to be sure to use a hose with a regulator.
You guys produce some of the most useful videos on TH-cam. Thanks so much!
Thanks! :)
We have an '04 Beaver and have been grappling with just this issue. The RV repair shops are no help at all. We have been direct connecting to the tank with a 12' hose but it is inconvenient and not terribly safe because of the propane discharge each time we disconnect. This information is brilliant and so useful!!! With your clear procedures and links to products, we finally have a solution. Thank you RV Geeks!!!! One question - could a capable RV Mobil handyman install the extend a stay? That may be beyond my comfort zone - propane is frightening stuff!
Hi Colleen! Thanks so much for your nice note. Glad we could offer up a potential solution for you. We do indeed love our setup. As far as installing the Extend-a-Stay, there is no doubt that any RV handyman could do it, because we have no professional tech training at all, and it was a breeze. It's designed and sold as a consumer product with the idea that the average handy RVer can install it easily, and we'd agree... not hard at all. So if you're unsure about working on a propane line and would be more comfortable having a mobile RV handyman do it, we say that if you find a guy who's in the business of working on RVs, and he tells you he can't install it, don't have him work on ANYTHING on your RV, since he might not be qualified! ;-)
Good advice, Thank you! :-) You guys are great, keep 'em coming!
Excellent presentation. We too have noticed the oil. I have even thrown away an older hose because it was filled with oil.
I've just recently done something similar Peter, but instead of taking it from the tank, where there was already a quick disconnect prior to the regulator, I noticed I have a bank (manifold) on the passenger side, so I chose to take out the one and only 'plug' and after picking up some parts and a new quick connect (with shutoff), I can now BBQ on the passenger side. I have the same BBQ you do Peter, but some years earlier I'd taken the regulator off of the BBQ so it could be used with our truck/camper, which was 'after' the regulator, so I again needed the supply from after the regulator again, which it is from the propane bank/manifold! So it now has the correct pressure being after the coaches regulator as well. Only issue at this time is that I have to leave the compartment door open when using it, so I'll eventually rig up a setup where I can pass the hose through, which will have to have some kind of grommet/door on it, to keep all the critters out! :)
That's great, Dale! There are many ways to tackle this project... and having (1) a propane manifold accessible and (2) a grill with the regulator already removed is a great combo! Hope you have an awesome grilling season! 😉
Got rid of my RVQ and bought a Weber, this was a very helpful video, thanks for the material links.
That's awesome, Ken! Hope you have a great summer grilling!
I hacked a brand new Q1200. Took regulator off and replaced with quick change male propane connector, made a hose. Now I simply hose into RV with quick change, no more pound cylinders. I attached a female plug to the removed regulator so I can still use the grill on the beach with the one pound cylinder if needed. At home, I quick change it into a 20 pound grill tank with a female end on the hose. All three ways work flawless. Q1200 rocks!
Very well done as usual gentlemen! Thanks for sharing this helpful solution!
Thanks! :)
Always a helpful and well done video. I want to also compliment you on how nicely you maintain your motorhome. It always looks showroom fresh and detailed in every compartment and nook and cranny! I love seeing your big Newmar in the videos and appreciating all of your detailing efforts. I'm the same way. I own a couple of classic show cars and I understand how important it is to have every nut and bolt detailed. I keep our RVs in the same condition. My family and friends think I'm crazy but it's a labor of love. I think an individual either gets it or they don't. Thanks for sharing and I look forward to the next video!
Thanks so much, Terry! Nothing "crazy" about taking care of your gear. When I (Peter) got my first car, my Dad was irritated at how much water I used by washing it almost every day! LOL I can think of a lot worse hobbies.
Great video as always. I was just in the planning stages for winter projects for our rig. This will be added to the list!
Thanks Michael! Great to hear. :)
Thank you! Just what I needed. Our Class A doesn’t have a connection for a grill, but it already has the Extend-A-Stay fitting on the propane tank. I was wondering what that thing was. However, I think there is a better way for me. The ¼” copper propane line to the furnace is in the compartment where I want the connection. So, I was thinking of just adding a T with a valved quick connect to that line. Then I would just need a hose with the fittings on each end & on the grill. Actually, it’s a small Blackstone griddle.
Looks like there is another regulator though on the grill after you plug in. I did same thing but the reg on my Colman doesn’t let the flame be true to low med high. Need to figure out a way to bypass the Coleman’s regulator but still have low med high
I noticed as well! Hopefully there is an answer further down!
I had to remove the regulator from my grill because the RV had one already on it close to the tanks. If you have 2 regulators in the same line you may not be able to get enough pressure to the grill. That is why I had to remove the one that came on the grill. My grill is the Weber Q1000.
Correct. The grill connection the RV manufacturers provide is connected to low-pressure propane (after the onboard regulator… typically 11-inch water column which is about 0.5psi). In that case, the pressure is too low. You can either remove the regulator in the grill… or not use the built-in grill connection and install an Extend-a-Stay like we did.
@@RVgeeks agreed
As always, I turn to the RV Geeks for direction whenever doing an update. This time hooking my portable grill to the RV propane tank instead of the little green bottles.
If you are using the more typical 30 lb bottles (or even 20), you can get a brass "tee" for about 35 bucks that connects right to the bottle and then connects to the RV hose same as before but also has a take off for a hose to the bbq. The hose is about another 35 bucks. Problem solved. Of course that means your bbq has to be withing about 8 feet of the tank (or however long those hoses are) but I have this system and it works quite well.
The biggest reason to get one of these tees and a hose is the money. Ya, you got to drop about $70 for the tee and the hose. But around here in Canada a 1 lb green bottle goes for about $4, whereas the 30 lb bottle fills for about $1 a pound. It's a 75% reduction in cost to run the bbq! Doesn't take long to pay for itself. When you buy the little green bottles, the portability is excellent, but you are mostly paying for the steel bottle not the propane. If you hardly use your bbq the green bottles are probably the way to go but if you go through a bunch of green bottles a year the tee and hose is the way to go.
I still always carry a couple of green bottles though. I used to carry them in case we wanted to use the Coleman lantern but who uses them anymore since they came out with LED lanterns? But I still put my outdoor stove out once in a while. Not very often because there is a perfectly good stove in the RV but we do use it occasionally.
Fantastic video! The only thing missing is a satisfying "barbecue smoke & sizzle reveal", lol. - But I'm sure you guys were busy just enjoying it. :-D
Thanks! Oh yeah... the sizzle came later. LOL It took us a few tries to get this one right, but we think we finally have a perfect setup for ourselves. Very happy with it since we added the 15 PSI regulator.
thanks for posting this. it had never occurred to me to use a quick connect like that. now i am very excited to try it!
Thanks for the information. I've had a similar hookup in my 5th wheel for several years and had the oil in regulator problem, it ruined the regulator! Now I know why and will put your info to work when I extend my "new" coach lines for BBQ use.
The first time our grill stopped working and we pulled the regulator and found oil, we were like "What the heck is that?!" Who knew? So glad we could help share this odd problem and its solution. :)
Thanks guys - this is exactly what I needed now with colder weather. My tank is on the passenger side next to the door so it will be a lot easier to connect.
That location should make it a breeze! Let us know how you make out, Bill.
Will do. The hook up for a larger tank will be great for the winter. I only have 40 lb on board.
Hey Guys - I ordered the parts and was looking at the instructions again. Once that regulator is installed something is going to have to be connected to the top of it all the time isn't it? If so I need to check clearances and order a valve or something.
Thanks
Bill
Bill Long Since we didn't install any type of shut-off valve in the line heading over to the grill, we do indeed have to keep something connected to it at all times. Even when we disconnect the grill, the only thing stopping propane from just rushing out of the hose is the quick-connect at the grill side. If your set-up requires you to disconnect the entire hose going to the grill from the tank for any reason, you will indeed need a shut-off valve on the tank end of the hose. Hope we understood your question correctly!
Yes. That is what I thought. Need to make a modification and it will be good
I see that you put the wall pass-through in the recess behind the outer edge of your passenger side slide. For those of us without a slide, there will have to be a spot that will work. This is one of the first modifications I will be making to my (new to me) RV. I will be setting it up so that I can run more than one propane-using item at a time, however. I envision a grill, a griddle, and perhaps also a propane post light. Thanks for posting this, the part about a close-to-the-tank regulator is key information.
Congrats on your new-to-you RV! Let us know how you make out with your mods. 👍
It is my understanding that connecting to a Weber Traver pressure regulator will cause low flame because the regulator is set for tank pressure. I have read that you have put a t past the grill regulator to get it to work with the trailer low pressure gas system.
Another great video. I've been thinking about how to do this for quite some time. We have a BBQ grill and an outdoor stove/oven which I sometimes run simultaneously. I will need some sort of Y adaptor or T/splitter of some sort.
A “T” should do the trick!
Excellent solution I've looked for for a long time now. Thanks for sharing!
I love this channel. So many practical and useful tips. Thanks
+You Tuber Thanks so much! You just made our day. 😊
Great explanation. Can alway,s count on you to give accurate information. Not so with other sites. Keep up the good work as I alway,s look forward to your video's . Thanks from Canada.
Thanks so much Tom, from fellow Canucks (BC). :)
Thanks guys. I hope we'll run into you on the roads in the future.
Thanks Charlie. Safe travels.
Where did you get the stand that the grill is sitting on?
Thanks
Weber sells them designed to fit each model of grill.
It never fails when we head out on a trip, that hubby forgets to pack those 1 lbs LP tanks. We have cases of them in our storage building and he always forgets! I think on purpose, so he doesn't have to cook! LOL
Sounds like he might not want to do this modification, for fear of losing his excuse for not cooking! LOL
LOL. Good thing is, our propane tank is on the passenger side of our coach!
I've heard issues with having the second regulator right at the grill. Issues of not enough propane getting through. Can you remove the regulator and plug the quick connect right into the grill
Hi Julian. That issue occurs when the first regulator drops the pressure too low to meet the input pressure requirement for the second regulator. That's why we went with the 15psi regulator at the tank side. It's plenty high enough for the input to the grill's regulator, but low enough to prevent the oily build-up in the hose. If you're going to completely remove the regulator from the grill, you'd want to match the regulator at the tank end to whatever the output from the grill's regulator was. Which, if the grill's regulator dropped pressure down to 11" Water Column (or 0.5 PSI), then you'd want to tee in AFTER your RV's onboard regulator which is also 11" WC. Hope that makes sense.
I replicated your setup on my coach about two years ago. It has been working great all this time but recently I began to notice a propane smell when I would open up the valve at the propane tank. Turns out the 15psi regulator had started leaking after just two years. The part is still available from Amazon so hopefully the replacement will last longer.
Thomas Smith Ours is still going strong after all these years, so hopefully that one was just an anomaly.
I've had one regulator last 2 years and then installed a 20lbs regulator and it lasted 1 year.
Thanks for the video. So, you have a second regulator that remains on the grill still? Does the already-regulated gas just pass through with virtually no change? Was wondering why you still had the second regulator on the grill side.
Great question! We do still have the original regulator on the grill. The reason it works, and provides enough flow, is because the first one is a step-down regulator, which brings the pressure down to 15 psi. That is still far higher than the regulator on the grill, which is closer to about 1/2 psi. The reduction in pressure along the line prevents oil buildup in the hose, but it’s still high enough to provide plenty of flow for the grill. That higher pressure also means that the grill’s regulator is indeed still required.
Okay, but your low pressure from your basement goes into another pressure regulator on the BBQ. still enough pressure to BBQ?
Yup! The “low” pressure at that first regulator is 15 psi, which is FAR more than needed to pressure the grill, even with the grill’s regulator in place.
Webers in Australia are supplied with hoses and regulators that screw directly into an LPG gas bottle. No need for conversions.
Great video. So if I just wanted a quick connect on the basement door (opposite side)for a BBQ or fire pit only I would connect to the rv side of the regulator? I really want a Y to add a quick connect to the floor by the driver seat for a big buddy heater also. I think all this can be done after the rv regulator. I will use your links to see if I can order the parts . thanks
Hi Jim. Technically, yes you can do what you’re saying and connect your quick connect on the RV side of the regulator. But doing that will require you to either remove the regulator from your grill, or buy a grill that does not have one and can run off low propane pressure. Do you likely also wouldn’t be able to run a propane fire pit from the RV side of the propane supply because the pressure and flow are too low. That’s why the Extend-a-Stay is a good option because it enables you to tap into the high-pressure propane needed for devices like grills and portable fire pits.
@@RVgeeks thanks I didnt think about the pressure needed for a fire pit. Lol that changes everything. I would like to put a big buddy heater up by the drivers side seat. I think you are right though. Before the regulator is better. Thanks
Thanks for the info. I did the same thing except i removed the regulator from the grill and put a quick fit on it so that i can take the grill away from the RV and still use it with the small tanks. The regulator on the grill is not used when attached to the RV main propane tank as it's regulated from the RV tank.
Great solution Robin! So many ways to make things like this work well for individual needs. :)
Don’t you have to remove the regulator on the grill because you already have a regulator on your on board propane tank???
This setup did not work for me because of the propane is going through two regulators. The first regulator brings the pressure down enough to be sufficient but the regulator on the Weber will not let enough propane pass through it. :(
You guys have provided such a valuable service to all RV'ers. This was just what I needed to hear. I will get the quick connect pieces for my portable Weber grill (just like yours but red).
One question: My RV is a 1997 Class C Tioga Montara by Fleetwood. The propane tank is original. How safe is it to keep this tank? Before I make any mods to it, do I need another tank? It looks mildly rusty here and there, but functions fine. I had to remove a solenoid when I installed the gas leak detector (newer model) - and got this done professionally.
Thanks for the nice comments, Lass! You should absolutely get your propane tank inspected by a professional. Rust is a potential danger, and propane (especially under pressure) is nothing to take chances with.
If you have a pressure regulator on your external propane tank as shown in the winter months, won't the on board tank empty first before allowing use of the external tank?
Good question, Jim. But you don’t leave both tanks on at the same time. We usually turn the on-board tank off... and use it as the “emergency spare” in case the external tank runs out. In that case, we turn the external tank off, then the on-board tank gets turned on.
I hacked my Q1200 before I ever turned it on. If RV tanks are regulated at exit, you will need to remove the regulator from the grill. Never more than one regulator in line, and always must have one. I also put a quick change on the regulator I removed so I can still use one pound tanks away from RV. I also added a quick change to the end of a standard 20 pound grill set up so I just plug it into grill while on the deck.
With your 15 psi regulator at he RV propane tank, Do you still need the regulator at the BBQ? To set up my BBQ, I have to remove the hose and regulator that comes with the BBQ, and install the quick connect directly to the BBQ.
I have found your channel to be the best for tips and tricks, etc.
Thanking you in advance.. Fred
Hi Fred. Thanks! Glad you enjoy our content (means a lot to hear that). And to answer your question, yes you still need the regulator at the grill. 15psi is WAY too much pressure for the grill to run at... would likely be like cooking over a blowtorch!! Your best bet would be to identify what pressure the built-in regulator that you have to remove was reducing the pressure to. If it's 11" WC (11" water column... which is about 0.5psi), then you'd be better off tee-ing in AFTER your RV's onboard regulator (which also brings it down to 11" WC) and feeding that directly into the grill. Hope this helps!
@@RVgeeks Thank you guys so much. I was at a BBQ store, and they (a KID basically ) said I did not need the regulator that came with the BBQ and the Firepit, because I had the 15 PSI regulator , as per your video. I tired it without, and could've melted all the snow up here. LOL
Thanks again.
@@ketonobull1649 Engage blowtorch! 😂
RV Geeks
Thanks for your informative video. Like you, I wanted to take advantage of my large RV LP tank to supply gas to my Q1200 Weber grill. A friend helped me install a brass tee after the tank, before the RV’s LP regulator. When I noticed some oil drips from the grill’s control valve (same problem you had), I called Webber and they advised me that I had probably damaged the grill because it could not be hooked up to a large RV tank. When I explained my tee was BEFORE the RV’s regulator (so it was not double-regulated) she was sure I had damaged something and so would need install a new regulator/control assembly.
Questions:
1. Have I damaged this grill by not having a 15 PSI regulator after my tee and before the grill?
2. I plan on installing your recommended high pressure 15 PSI regulator, which means I will have it double - regulated. I’m sure that you didn’t have any problems with your grill but, will this create any problems with my Q1200?
3. Do you think I really need to replace my regulator assembly?
Thanks for your help with this.
Jim
Hi Jim. Sorry to hear about your trouble. Having oil clog your grill's regulator is a real bummer. In response to your questions:
(1) We can't imagine that you've damaged the grill in any way other than getting it gummed up with oily residue. When it happened to ours, we used some isopropyl alcohol to clean it out... making sure it was completely and thoroughly dry before we ran propane through it again... and it worked just fine. The oil didn't cause any real problem other than gumming things up and reducing flow.
(2) We haven't noticed any problems with our grill since installing our system. Some people have thought theirs might not be grilling quite as hot as before installing the 15psi regulator... but we can't say we've noticed any difference. Be sure to get the same parts that we list in our post about installing this ( www.thervgeeks.com/propane/bbq-grill-connection/ ). Not all parts are created to provide full flow of propane... so you may find a similar one that has the same connections, but that restricts the amount of propane flowing through the system... thus you'll get lower heat.
(3) As mentioned above... we'd try just cleaning it first. Your onboard propane tank's pressure shouldn't be significantly different than a disposable cylinder or portable 20-lb propane tank. And those connect directly to the Weber's controller/regulator without a problem. So clean it first to be sure it's not clogged before assuming it's been damaged. But we think you'll be fine. And with the 15psi regulator keeping the pressure in the hose down, you shouldn't have any issues with oil ever again!
Hope this helps! And let us know how you make out!
@@RVgeeks Thanks for your quick/detailed response. The Weber lady said she had 20 years with Weber and knew that it would not work with an RV and that I had damaged it and caused the oil leak (that I needed to buy another part). It seems that they'd want this big RV market's extra sales and so would engineer & sell the parts required (make the profit$ for Weber vs. hassle the Customer). Maybe you can contact them and become their Consultant.
I did not see your Parts List the first time I looked at this so I have installed a brass tee and 12' hose that screws directly into the Weber regulator (no quick disconnect). I'll be ordering the 15 PSI regulator you recommend and then clean off the oil and... should be good to go.
You provide us beginners a great service, thanks again!
Our pleasure, Jim. It is strange that the Weber employee was so certain you’d damaged the controller. It’s possible she’s assuming the oil will damage something in it... but that wasn’t our experience. Removing it and pouring some rubbing alcohol in, shaking it up, and draining it got it all out and it worked fine ever after. If nothing else, it’s worth the try rather than replacing the controller. Please let us know how you make out!
@@RVgeeks Agree. I think she's been told for 20 years that it will NOT work with a big RV LP tank and that if this is done, it will damage the Weber. Again, I do not understand the Weber business strategy on this anti-RV policy and their adamant employee training.
I'll be ordering the regulator, doing the cleaning and then let you know.
This gas control valve replaces the valve with your Olympian 5500 RV grill (CAM57305 - sold separately). And it lets you use a propane supply on an RV or trailer that has a built-in Quick-Connect propane connection
Great how-to. You possibly mis-spoke @3:36. This is not a high pressure hose-it comes from the small 15psi regulator
Technically, hoses rated for over normal operating pressure is considered a high pressure LP hose. Operating system components and hoses only need to be rated at around 1/2 psi.
Thank you for making this. I have a Aliner camper and it had this done it has been modified with a 12 foot line ..
Nice! So much better than the little tanks, right?! :)
Curious if it would be safer with black pipe or copper under and through the coach. Or even the yellow gas pipe. Just because the rubber hose can deteriorate over time.
Hi Kevin. Might be a more robust installation that way. But it would be a lot more difficult to install. Ours has been working great for many years without a problem though, so this seems like a pretty good compromise.
Did you use a high pressure or low pressure quick connect at the BBQ grill?
i notice that your propane goes thru 2 regulators now, the second being the bbq's regulator, does this impede flow for the grill itself? or do you still get a nice high flame? thanks, Richard
Flame is great! The first (red) regulator is much higher pressure - 15 PSI - than the second one, allowing plenty of pressure for the grill. The red regulator is just a step-down to the final pressure the grill requires.
Dude your video is awesome !! Very detailed
Thanks for the shared knowledge
Our pleasure, Javier. Thanks for the nice comment!
Just wondering if you have connected 2 grills to a single 5 gallon tank with a tee using a 5' hose to each device ?
We haven’t done that, but don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Even those small tanks have plenty of pressure.
Thanks for all the tips. You talk about oil damaging the grill regulator when using high pressure gas. Can the regulator be cleaned or do you have to buy a new one?
We cleaned our regulator out with alcohol, let it dry thoroughly, and it worked fine!
@@RVgeeks how exactly did you clean the regulator? You said alcohol but what kind? Vodka 😆?
@@reddawg9400 Yes… “rubbing vodka” 😁
GREAT information, as usual, with great clarity. I also noticed the use of the two regulators and was going to question you on this use, but you gave a Super detailed explanation in your reply to someone else. Did you figure this out yourself or was there someone else involved in the process? Thanks.
Later...Terry
Thanks Terry! We mostly figured out the whole set-up ourselves, with the exception of the fact that high pressure can cause oil to accumulate in long propane hoses. The first time we ever heard an explanation of where that oily build-up had come from was when we went to connect our RV to an external propane tank the winter we spent up north. The local propane dealer who sold us the parts we needed for that told us that we'd need a regulator on the big external tank (which you can see briefly in this video and in detail in our video about that topic) because we needed a fairly long hose to reach the RV. When he told us about high-pressure propane causing oil build-up in long runs of hose, a light bulb went off, since we'd had that then-mysterious problem once before, but had no idea why. We thought we'd just gotten a bad batch of propane. ;-)
When it comes to exactly what regulators we used to reach the grill, we chose the 15 PSI after some experimenting. We'd first tried a standard 11" water column unit, but the grill would not stay lit, since we were double regulating (TWO 11" water column units in the same line). It turns out that we needed to "step down" by bringing the pressure down part way to prevent the oil, then regulating at the grill to the required level. As we mentioned, if the regulator had been easy to remove from the grill, we could instead have simply moved it to the other end of the hose, right off the T and only needed one instead of two. We're always learning! :)
Thank you for this detailed information! Got all the necessary parts from your website´s links. Quick question though: with the grill adaption to the tee, that is between the tank and the regulator, once you open the tank´s valve is there no gas escaping through the grill´s hose? If not, is it not escaping because the quick adapter´s valve, or would it be enough without that quick adapter to avoid gas escaping (or would I need then to connect and disconnect it all the time)? Thanks in advance!
Good question, Alfredo. Yes, the quick-connector by the grill has a shutoff so that propane doesn't leak when you disconnect the grill from it. We've also been meaning to install another shutoff valve between the tee and the 12' hose coming across to the grill... so that, when needed, we could shut off the flow of propane in that hose, without also having to turn off the whole RV's tank. That would also add another layer of safety to ensure no leaks. But, even without it, we haven't had a problem.
@@RVgeeks Thank you for your answer!!!
Hi Guys! I had tried this exact setup and wasn't getting any propane flow to my grill...conversely I started smelling propane leaking from somewhere (abort, abort!). Looking at this video again, it looks like there is another regulator on the grill side of the quick connect, is that correct? I really want to do this not just because of the convenience, but those little disposable green tanks are bad for the environment! Thank you.
So sorry we just saw your comment! Sorry for the delayed reply. Yes, there is indeed a regulator built onto the grill. That’s required, and comes with the grill, because the propane feeding into it is still too high pressure. The red step-down 15 psi regulator we installed over near the tank simply reduces the huge pressure in the tank to a more modest level. But it’s still not low enough for the grill, which requires the same psi as most other RV appliances. That pressure is commonly known as “11 inches water column” which equates to approximately 0.5 psi.
how does your grill work if it has a regulator on the feed side and a regulator on the grill itself? I already have a grill quick connect on MY RV after the house propane tank regulator. I was under the impression that you had to remove the grill regulator for this to work. I have the same weber q grill
With the propane line Tee'd in from the tank side of the RV's main regulator, it's coming from the high-pressure side. allows us to keep the original Weber regulator in place. It we were to tap in on the downstream (RV side) of the regulator, then we would indeed have to remove the grill's regulator for it to work. The red 15 PSI regulator added into the line simply steps down the very high pressure in the tank, which prevents oil buildup in the long line running over to the grill.
Very informative video! I don't have any experience with propane so this video was very helpful and it looks like an excellent alternative to those small bottles. I am wondering though about how much your RV propane tank holds and how long that amount of propane will last you? How often do you have refill it? Thanks for the terrific videos! I can't wait to get started RVing!
If I have no need of connecting an large external tank, would there be a problem with connecting on the regulated side of the RV propane tank and not having to install the additional regulator?
Hi Brian! Because the RV’s main regulator drops of pressure down to 11 inch water column, which is about 0.4 psi, the only way you can do that is to remove the regulator from the grill. That’s because the grill’s regulator is expecting high pressure, and having two 11 inch water column regulators in line causes the “double regulation“ problem and the grill won’t have enough pressure to work.
The method in which your have propane going from the tank and through a regulator, then down the line to the BBQ and then through a second regulator at the BBQ, doesn't that pose an issue with the amount of propane thet you have going into the BBQ for a proper flame setting? Thanks
Hi Michael. Great question! The reason it's not a problem is because the red 15 PSI regulator we installed at the tank provides FAR more pressure than the grill needs to operate (it uses less than 1 PSI). That acts as a "step-down" regulator to prevent oily buid-up in the long run of hose over to the grill, while still allowing more than enough pressure for the grill to work.
@@RVgeeks Thank U.
No wonder! I need to get the extended stay installed. Good thing I didn't force it otherwise, I'd have been toast! Thanks for the video. 😎
Another good video guys not bad for a couple of Aussies.
G'Day Mate! :)
Hi guys, Our RV has a quick connect built into it already and the grill we have has a regulator that is easily removed but it also controls our flame adjustment. We have read that we can not use the regulator because the quick connect on the RV is already a low pressure connection. We have seen flame controls sold separately and are wondering is this the way we would go about connecting our grill or should we just replace our grill with one that does not need a regulator? Hope this question makes sense lol. Thanks.
We're pretty sure that just about all (if not all) small grills have regulators on them. Because of that, we can't imagine that the grill port on your RV isn't designed to work with them. Have you tried it yet to see if it works? It might be plumbed to high pressure.
We have not tried it yet, and we thought the same about most portable grills having a regulator, but when we looked on the forums most people said the quick connect is a low pressure port on our Winnebago and we would not be able to connect to a grill that has a regulator. Maybe it's a brand specific issue. Thanks for your reply I think we are going to just play it safe and carry the 1lb bottles for now. We'll contact Winnebago and see what they have to say about it and let you know if we find out any info.
Contacting Winnebago sounds like a good plan, but if you want to just connect it (assuming you have a hose), there's no harm in trying. If there's an issue with double regulation, it just won't light... or will light and then go out. Let us know how you make out.
I think we are always a little too cautious, we were afraid of damaging the grill or RV. We are taking the RV out for this weekend and we'll try it out. Thanks for your help.
Hi guys, We spoke to Winnebago this morning and they said the quick connect port is a low pressure connection and that we would have to use a grill that is designed for low pressure or we could remove our regulator on our grill. We went on irv2 and it sounds like it's not just Winnebago that has it set up this way and most people say they do remove Thierry regulator and it works fine but we are apparently the oddballs that have our temperature control attached to our regulator lol. Just thought we would pass you the info. We are not sure how comfortable we are trying to modify our grill if it's really not meant to be used this way. So we'll probably just use bottles till the thing dies. Thanks again for your help and input we always appreciate your insight.
I just purchased a new travel trailer that has the quick connect under the frame. I am being told that it will not work on my weber q1200 like yours because it would be double regulated. do you have any problem with that or did you modify in any way. It looks like you kept the regulator on the grill as well as the regulator off the tee. Thanks, Tim
You have the 15 PSI regulator coming out of your tank. Do you still need the one on your Weber BBQ or could you take it off?
You absolutely still need the regulator on the grill, which requires far lower than 15 PSI.
@@RVgeeks problem is now you have two regulators and the pressure is too low and you don't get a good flame.
Mike... that’s true if the output from the first regulator isn’t high enough to be input to the second one. The 15psi regulator at the tee is plenty of pressure as input for the grill’s regulator. No double regulation problem.
My only word of caution would be that squirrels like to chew on rubber propane hoses. With the hose exposed to the outside this makes this a little vulnerable to damage. We have pretty much the same setup but I installed a valve off the extend a stay so that the grill hose is not pressurized.
Great idea. We've been thinking about the same thing, but since we're full-time, we always have the grill line powered up (we use it about every other day all year round) and when we leave the RV for any extended period, we shut off the main propane valve on the tank itself. If we do add a valve there, we'll be sure to report back! Thanks. :)
wrap aluminum foil around the hose, they won't like it anymore. ; )
It looks like you have two regulators. I’d this correct? If so isn’t this reducing the already regulated gas?
Great question, Emmett! The unregulated propane comes out of the tank at very high pressure (can easily exceed 100 PSI), then goes through the red 15 PSI regulator as kind of a "step-down" for the trip across to the other side of the RV in the long hose. That reduction to 15 PSI prevents the accumulation of oil in that long run of hose. But 15 PSI isn't nearly low enough for the grill which runs on about 0.5 PSI. That second regulator on the grill takers care of that, and the 15 PSI feeding it is plenty to get the job done. Works like a charm.
I have that same grill. Is the regulator on the grill not sufficient? My tank is on the passenger side of my rig, and already under my patio awning, so 6 feet of hose will be plenty. My fish cooker also has its own regulator. What say you?
6 feet of hose probably isn’t long enough to create the oil buildup problem, so we’d guess you’d be okay without the additional regulator.
Doesn't having a second regulator in the line create low pressure to the grill?
It would indeed create a problem if they were both low-pressure regulators (about 0.5 PSI, like the one on the grill itself). But the red one is a 15PSI regulator that steps down the pressure while still leaving plenty to operate the grill.
QUESTION: It looks like your grill has a built in regulator, which would make double regulators, one on the grill and one in you plumbing at the bottle, am I missing something?
Hi Wayne! There are two regulators, but the first one, the red one, is 15 psi to act as a step down regulator. The one on the grill is far lower. If the red one were the same type as the one on the grill, we would indeed have double regulation, and the grill wouldn’t work. But the 15 psi is still plenty high enough to get enough pressure to the grill.
This is a great video and I like all the details you added, I do have one question or maybe I'm just not seeing it, but what type of fitting was used to connect the two extension hoses together? I'm planning to implement this mod on my Big Horn 5th wheel this spring. Thanx
+Jean Lavoie Thanks Jean! The two extension hoses connect together with no special fitting needed. One end of each is female and the other ends are the matching male fitting, so they connect right up no problem!
I see there is still the factory regulator on the grill. My grill has the regulator on the hose of the grill. So it looks like I need a quick connector on my propane grill hose that keeps the grill regulator it came with... In other words, the RV regulator and the grill regulator both need to be in place?
Whether the grill’s own regulator is needed or not depends on whether your propane line comes directly off the RV’s propane tank (as ours does), or through the RV’s whole-house regulator. Since we plumbed our “T” upstream/before the whole-house regulator, the hose to the grill is carrying high-pressure propane, and needs to be regulated down at the grill. (The red step-down regulator we installed is still far too high pressure for the grill.) If your grill line taps into the system downstream/after the whole-house regulator, the grill will need to have its regulator removed, otherwise you’ll be double-regulating it, and there won’t be enough pressure for the grill to run. Hope this makes sense, and helps.
The supply line comes after the whole house regulator, but I think that is a high pressure regulator. Looks like I will first try to connect with the factor LOW pressure regulator on the grill. The grill is made to connect directly to an LP tank, the large type, not the tiny portable camping bottles.
Hmm. The whole house regulator is 2 stage regulator so then it only allows about .5 psi, so looks like you told me correct. Will connect without a regulator and see how this works. Thanks.
You are 100% correct. Worked perfect without the in line single stage regulator on the grill because the whole house RV regulator was putting out the correct pressure (low pressure). No big yellow flames on my grill. Temp isnperdect. Thanks.
You're running propane through a regulator twice? Are you getting any pressure at the appliance? Doesn't that reduce your propane pressure to the point of it not burning at capacity?
As we said in the video, yes, we're running through two regulators, and it works perfectly. The reason is that the commonly referred-to "double regulation" problem happens when you use two 11" WC (water column... the standard appliance regulator that equals about 0.5 PSI). We're not doing that. The first regulator is 15 PSI, about 30 times more pressure than the one on the grill. That supplies plenty of pressure to the grill's regulator, and is simply in place to reduce tank pressure (which can typically run well over 100 PSI) down in the long hose from the tank to the grill. That's only needed to prevent oily build-up, which can happen (and clog the grill's regulator) when running extremely high pressure over a long run. It's simply a step-down, not double regulation.
Hello! Thanks for your video. I have the same Weber Grill and I was trying to connect a 20lb tank to it instead of using the 1lb small tanks. I bought the host for the 20lb to the Weber Q Grill, but for some reason, even though the grill is in the OFF position, gas is still coming through. The Weber Q1200 has a regulator on it, but do I still need another regulator on the Hose between the 20lb tank and Weber Grill (again, the same grill that you have)? Thanks!
Glad the video was helpful. First, in response to your question, no... you shouldn't need any other regulator between the 20lb tank and your grill. The grill's regulator is expecting the high-pressure propane from either the disposable tank or the 20#, so that part is fine. The gas still running/leaking part... that's clearly an issue! Can you tell WHERE it seems to be leaking from? Is it literally coming through the regulator and running out the burner holes? Or is it leaking somewhere else?
You might want to mix some dish soap into a cup of water and pour that over the connections... if it bubbles, you've found leaking.
But if the gas is coming THROUGH the regulator on the grill, even with the regulator turned off completely... it sounds like that regulator has failed and/or is faulty. If it's new, we'd return it and get a new one. If it's older... we'd try replacing the regulator.
Hope this helps!
@@RVgeeks Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. I picked up our new RV yesterday and was told not to have a regulator on the BBQ since there is one on the TV and it would be too much. What do you think?
It all depends on whether you’re tapping into the propane for the grill prior to, or downstream, of the RV’s regulator. The RV regulator brings pressure down to the correct level for running your grill without an additional regulator. If, however, you have your system set up like we do, with the hose going over to the grill coming from the high-pressure side of the regulator (the side closest to the propane tank), you absolutely do need a regulator on the grill itself.
By the way, congratulations on your new RV!
this is a great video about propane use even if you are not using it in the exact set-up you have. Thanks for some good solid information. You wouldn't by chance be an engineer would you?
Thanks! Actually, John is indeed an engineer... but not the right type. He has degree in ceramic engineering.
I watched your install video a few years ago. I have the same bbq as well. I tubed in a 1/2” stainless tubing line. I had the oil problem. If I hook a 1lb bottle it gets hot. From the 15 psi reg it won’t heat up. Getting a little frustrated. Any ideas?
The grill regulator wants to see tank pressure, not 15psi. Some regulators which require tank pressure will operate on less than tank pressure, and some will not, or they will work erratically. RV LP systems are my business. I'd just carry a 20lb tank for use with the grill and get the 5' adaptor hose made for that application. Cheap and simple.
Your videos have been very helpful to me. Following this question from a FB group I purchased the same setup, but without the yellow tape. Question about the connection between the Cylinder thread x ¼" Male Pipe Thread Adapter and the male quick connect. This is the only connection that does not have a gasket, it would not screw in very far even if there had been a gasket and it leaked when I tested it. Will the yellow tape be sufficient or is there supposed to be an o-ring or gasket? Do I need the yellow pipe tape with the gasket connections too?
Hi Min. That connection between the male side of the quick connect and the 1"x20 Male Thread to 1/4" Female NPT thread... it should screw in fairly far (might take some extra oomph), but we would definitely use the yellow PFTE tape on it to be sure it didn't leak. And we taped all of the other connections EXCEPT the 1"x20 male-to-female connections (like between two sections of hose), since those have O-rings and gaskets and should seal tightly.
If that's not what you're asking about, though, let us know.
Thanks for your quick answer. I can't tell you how much your videos have helped me.
Is the first regulator a special kind that still keeps the pressure high enough for the barbecue's regulator to work with? I only use a short line with the stay-a-while as that is where my camp/curb side is located. I do need to figure out a connection for my Big Buddy Heater with a 20 ft run to an outside location. I have a tee behind the stove for it inside the RV.
Exactly! The 15 PSI regulator is perfect for reducing the pressure enough to prevent oil build-up in a long hose, but high enough to reach and power the grill with the stock built-in regulator in place (so no mod needed on the grill). Since your tank is on the curb side, you shouldn't need to worry about oil building up in the very short line to the grill, so the 15 PSI regulator shouldn't be needed (it's only long lengths of hose where high pressure creates the oil).
If your Big Buddy has a regulator built in, it's possible that it won't run off the stove line.. If the line to the stove is already regulated (that's the way ours is, with the entire RV regulated to 11" water column right at the RV's main tank), and the heater also has a built-in regulator (we're almost certain that it does), double regulation might be a problem.
RVgeeks Hi and thanks for helping. My Big Buddy works fine in the RV and has since I installed the Tee at the stove. It uses the RV's regulator as the line in on the Big Buddy is unregulated. It has one for the two little one pound bottles I usually use when away from the RV. But I'm looking to use the heater further away and use the RV's tank. I will need two regulators, the 15" w.c. and an 11" w.c. at the heater.
Nice video but I just confused myself by looking at way to many comments. So I have a quick connect valve that came installed on my trailer. I purchased the Weber Q2200 grill. Same as your just differnt BTU's I believe. I would like to just connect a 12" quick connect hose hose from the trailer to the grill so I can use the trailers propane but move away from trailer. I also would like to leave the regulator on the bbq in case I need to use it at home with the small propane bottles. I purchased a Camco quick connect 12' extension hose and a Camco low pressure 1/4 male NPT qucik connect fitting. What part should work coming from the bbq regulator so I can use the quick connect set up? You guys are awesome!!!
LOL! You're not alone, Stefanie... it can get REALLY confusing. We're not sure what part you'll need to do what you want... but we CAN tell you that it likely won't work the way you want it to. Almost every RV manufacturer that we know of that includes a propane quick-connect for you to connect a grill to has that quick-connect in the LOW pressure propane line (i.e. downstream/after the onboard propane regulator that drops the propane pressure to just 11" water column, or 0.5psi). Which means you need to remove the regulator from any grill you connect to it. Otherwise, there's not enough pressure coming from the RV to get the grill's regulator to open up and allow flow. Before buying any more parts, you may want to either sleuth out where the line that the factory-installed quick-connect is installed in goes (so you can figure out if it's got high- or low-pressure propane) OR contact your RV manufacturer and ask. Hope this helps!
Thanks for sharing this video. Could you have tapped off the water heater of refrigerator? That is what I have been thinking of because both are on the passenger side, any advice?
You can tap into any accessible propane supply that you feel comfortable and confident in T-ing into. Just be aware that the propane to both the water heater & fridge (and everything else on board) has already been regulated down to 11" water column. That means that you will almost certainly have to remove the regulator that came on the grill for this to work, because having two 11" water column regulators in line will not likely provide enough pressure to run the grill.
+RVgeeks: I'm a little slow today, guys...Please bear with me. How is that different from the setup you show in your video? You have a regulator at the tee, and another on your grill.
Southbound
Ahhhh.... got it. The difference is that the regulator we installed coming off the T (the red one in the video), is 15 PSI. The regulator that came on the grill is 11" water column, which equals only about 0.4 PSI.... much less pressure.
The main regulator going into the RV is also 11" water column, so that means that if you tap into any line further downstream (like near the fridge or water heater), that propane is already regulated way down. So if you simply tap into that very-low-pressure source, the additional regulator on the grill will probably prevent there from being enough pressure for the grill to operate, if it even allows any flow at all.
This is the situation we had when we first tried experimenting with regulators. We added an 11" water column regulator at the T (where the red one is now) and that, combined with the second 11" water column unit that comes on the grill, brought the pressure down so low that the grill wouldn't light. But 15 PSI at the T is plenty of pressure to allow the propane reach the grill's regulator.
Hope this helps! :)
+RVgeeks Great explanation. Thanks!
Planning to do this mod as well, is there a magic number of feet for the extension hose before you have to add the additional regulator?
Hmmm. Great question, Jean. We're not sure about that. It might not take too much length though, and we're pretty sure that the exposure to cold air exacerbates the problem. It seems like the hoses are either quite short (propane tank on the curb/grill side) or pretty long (tank on the driver's side). We're only making a slightly educated guess here, but if the hose is more than about 8-10 feet, and it's being used in the winter, we'd guess that the oil build-up problem would be more likely. Sorry we're not 100% sure on this one.
Thanx for your input, I think it's cheap insurance just to add the 15 psi regulator and mitigate the oil contamination possibilities. Thanx again.
do you have any concerns with leakage from the quick disconnects?
We did have a quick connect leak once, but we replaced it and haven’t had a problem since. Definitely worth keeping an eye on though.
i know this video is old but I was just wondering about why you have the second regulator at the grill side? Is it necessary? thanks
Hi Scott! It’s needed because we have such a long run of hose from the propane tank to the grill. Very high pressure coming directly out of the propane tank and running down a long hose tends to build up oil in it which gums up the grill. That red step-down regulator lowers the pressure enough to prevent the oil, but still allows enough pressure for the grill to operate properly.
@@RVgeeks thank you for the reply. and you parts list is excellent. We are hooking up our blackstone this weekend.
How did you find this works with having 2 regulators. I was told you had to remove the regulator on the bbq if going through the RV 2 stage regulator. I see you are going through the single stage that you added and the bbq reg.
This worked great, because the first regulator (the red one we installed right above the Extend-a-Stay) only brings the pressure down to 15 PSI. Since that's far lower than 11 inches water column (which only equals about 0.4 PSI), there was plenty of pressure to power the grill with its original regulator still in place. We originally tried using an 11" water column regulator at the T (instead of the 15 PSI unit) and indeed there was not enough pressure to keep the grill lit because of double regulation. So the 15PSI unit is low enough to prevent oil from forming in the hose, but high enough to avoid having to remove the grill's built-in regulator (which would have been a challenge on this particular grill).
I have something similar hooked up in my rv but my Weber does not work properly with 2 regulators one on the Bar B Que and the other at the source. I asked Weber and they said you can't have two regulators before the gas enters the Bar B Que so now I am confused?? Any thoughts?
Hi Paul! Great question. Since double-regulating can indeed cause the exact problem you're having, we do get questions about how our system works so well with two regulators. The confusion is caused by the PSI of the regulators. Grills and other appliances, like water heaters, RV fridges, etc, run off a specific PSI level that's referred to as "11 inches water column" which equates to about 0.5 PSI. The main regulator on the RV is 11" WC, and so is the one that came built onto the grill. If you try to go through TWO of those, that is the very definition of double regulation, and will prevent the grill from getting enough propane flow. The difference in our case is the PSI level of the red regulator we installed near the tank. First, it's on the TANK side of the RV's whole-house regulator, which means it's getting full (very high) unregulated pressure. Second, it's a 15 PSI regulator, not 11" WC. That 15 PSI is about 30 times higher than the grill's regulator (which again is about 0.5), and PLENTY of pressure to carry more than enough propane down our long hose and over to the grill. It's also far higher than the grill can run on, so the grill's 11" WC regulator is still required. With that 15 PSI regulator in line, it prevents the oily build-up that VERY high pressure can cause over a long run, but still provides plenty of pressure to the grill's regulator. Hope this isn't too much detail, and is clear enough!
How are you getting enough pressure to your grill with 2 regulators in the same line ?
Because the first regulator is high enough pressure (15psi). You can’t do this using the RV’s onboard regulator since it drops the pressure too low.
@@RVgeeks Got it. Thanks. My RV is only 19 feet and the regulator is only 5 lbs. not 15 and that is why I had to remove my second regulator.
I love the knowledge and skills you share! I going to do this for sure! Thank you Sir!
This is a great video that I have looked at before. I have a new RV and a question. How long is too long for the hose to need the added regulator. My tank is on the passenger side and a 12' hose will get me to the BBQ and/or the fire pit we use. Would I still need the 2nd reg in your expert opinion??
Hi Lynn. Congrats on the new RV! We wish we had an answer to the question of "how long is too long?" We had our problem with twice that length of hose (12' hose to get across the RV from driver to passenger side, then another 12' hose to extend the grill away from the RV). So it's POSSIBLE that a single 12' hose won't have the problem. Some of that may depend on if you plan to leave the 12' hose connected to the tank permanently... or if you're going to remove it regularly when breaking camp. If leaving it on... it's more likely to be an issue (it seems to be a problem of extended time with the hose exposed to high pressure propane... particularly when the ambient temps drop). If you'll be disconnecting it on any regular basis... it will probably be fine without the regulator. But we can't be 100% sure.
@@RVgeeks Thanks for the quick response. I am not full time so will most likely disconnect the hose when we pack up. Probably the most would be a 2 week stay.
I appreciate your input and enjoy watching you on the road. I look forward to the RVers and seeing more of your travels.
Best to you.
So I am working on the Extend-a-stay (EAS) and shock ran into a problem. The propane tank on my Tiffin Phaeton is mounted so the end of the tank is what I see from the storage door. The connection point for the EAS has a hose to the main regulator making it difficult to mount the EAS as you and other show. I'll be using the red 15 PSI regulator but the question is - can this regulator be mounted in any position? Don't see a vent as in the main unit. I may need to be creative to get this in the bay but thought I'd ask your opinion. I have a photo but don't see how to send it to you?! Thanks for your assistance.
Hi Lynn. Sorry to hear you're having trouble... certainly sounds like Tiffin didn't make this easy for you! We're not at the RV to be able to look closely at our 15psi regulator to know if it has a vent. But we'd assume it does (even if it's not all that obvious), since it's pretty standard for a regulator. That said, when mounting a regulator, you either need to keep it covered, or mount it with the vent pointing downward... to keep rain & other debris from getting in. We don't recall paying any particular attention to how we mounted ours, since it's inside a compartment where it's unlikely to get rained on... and is mounted high enough up not to get sprayed from wet roads, etc. So if yours is similar, we'd bet you'd be OK with mounting it in whatever direction you need in order to fit it in. Hope this helps!
@@RVgeeks Thanks again. You guys are a great help. I'll check it more carefully but I believe it is well covered. Still trying various angles to get it in there!!
I have a camper with dual propane tanks. The propane lines are set up similar to what you did in your video, with a dedicated line running to quick connect for outdoor grill station. I am thinking of changing the configuration to use an auto changeover regulator for all of the camper's appliances. Any idea how I would split out a line to the grill station using dual propane tanks and an auto changeover regulator?
Hi Mike... sorry for the delayed response. We lost track of this comment! How you do it would depend on where your current BBQ quick-connect line is plumbed. Does it come AFTER (downstream of) the RV's regulator? If so... it should be easy to just replace it with the auto-changeover regulator and nothing else needs to be touched. But if your current "T" is placed BEFORE (upstream, closer to the tank) from your current regulator, you'd have to make some changes. You'd probably want to move the "T" to AFTER the changeover regulator (so you'd have the advantage of the propane supply for the BBQ auto-changing along with the rest of the RV) and you'd likely need to remove the regulator from your BBQ grill. The output from the RV's regulator will be too low to be an input to the grill.... so your grill would stop working.
But if your grill is already a low-pressure unit, because it's getting it's propane fed by the onboard RV regulator, you should be fine.
Hope this helps... and makes sense! 😉
Ok so if I didn’t see this before adding the regulator and got oil at my grills regulator and in the hose should I replace the hose?
Hi Scott. Sorry to hear you had the dreaded "propane oil" problem. Before we came up with this solution, we had it as well. We didn't replace our hoses after we added the 15psi regulator at the propane tank side... we installed a propane filter (like this one on Amazon: amzn.to/3DGgS6a ) at the grill end. That way, any remaining oil in the hose got caught before it gummed up the grill regulator (which we removed from the grill and drained, though replacing it would probably be easier, LOL!). After about a year of operating things with the new regulator at the tank end and the filter at the grill end, we removed the filter and haven't had any problem since.
@@RVgeeks thanks I will order one when we get home
Question for you, i thought of doing that but i figured out that there would be two regulators in line. One on the BBQ and the other you installed at the tank end. Does that reduce it too much?
Hey Mike! Great question. Two regulators MIGHT be too much of a pressure reduction, depending on which type you use. Here are some clarifying notes about our regulators and why we set them up the way we did.
We mentioned that the main one going into the RV is 11" water column. That is a standard that just about all appliances use, including the grill. So the small built-in regulator on the grill is also 11' water column.
As we mentioned, the only reason we needed to add in regulation coming off the T is to prevent the oily build-up that can occur in the long hose. But the reason we used a 15 PSI unit at the T (rather than a standard 11″ water column model) is that there wouldn’t be enough pressure to run the grill due to double regulation (having TWO 11″ water column units won’t work). We know first-hand on this one, since that was one of the first things we tried. LOL
So the 15 PSI regulator at the T reduces the pressure enough to prevent oil build-up, while still providing enough input pressure for the grill’s built-in regulator.
On some grills, the built-in regulator can be removed, as long as you're connecting to a line that's already regulated down to 11" water column. But in some cases, such as ours, the one on the grill is not easily removable without modification (it's part of the on/off/flow control). If it had been easily removable, we could have simply removed it and
moved it to the far end of the hose (coming right off the T), eliminating the need for the extra 15 psi regulator.
If we had a grill with an easily-removable regulator, and we NEVER intended to connect to external propane, we could also have connected the Extend-a-Stay downstream of the RVs main regulator, and removed the grill's regulator completely. That would send already-regulated (11" water column) propane directly across to the grill, which would now need no further regulation. Of course this would REQUIRE the removal of the grill's regulator, since, as mentioned, installing TWO 11" water column regulators in one line will prevent the grill from receiving enough pressure to operate.
Hope this is clear!
Peter, what was the performance problem that developed with the grill before you put the regulator inline and found the oil in the regulator? I have mine basically the same way, a 15PSI regulator before a 15 foot hose that will connect to my Weber Q2000 just before the regulator. I wrote Weber and they say since my burner will only light half way around until I brush the burner with a metal brush back towards the inlet, that it may be a double regulated pressure situation. The burner is clean as a whistle. Does the same on the small bottle of propane also. Thanks.
Hi Jerry! When we had oil in the grill’s regulator, the grill showed low flame (not hot enough to grill), it would sputter, and sometimes would go out completely. We don’t recall it ever exhibiting the problem you’re describing, but that could be because the Q1000 is smaller. If your grill is having the exact same problem when you use the small bottle of propane or when you’re hooked to the RV’s onboard tank, we’d say that you’re definitely having an issue with the regulator on the grill itself... and it’s certainly possible that it has oil in it... or it’s faulty. If it was a “double-regulation” issue, it should work normally when you run it off the small bottle, since there’s not a second regulator then. Hope that helps!
Will I need your regulator to hook up a propane powered wok with this from amazon? Propane Brass 4 Port Tee Kit Propane Brass Tee Adapter Kit 5FT and 12FT Stainless Braided Hoses Allow for Connection Between Auxiliary Propane Cylinder and Propane Appliances for Tank RV Camping
The determining factor in whether you need to add a step-down regulator (like the red 15 PSI model we used) is the length of the hose you're adding on the high-pressure side of the RV's regulator. The longer the hose, the more likely that high-pressure propane will cause oil to form in the line. The shorter the hose, the less likely that oily problem is, so no additional regulator should be needed. Our 12' hose required the regulator. Just be sure that if you're Tee-ing into the propane BEFORE (upstream) of the RV's whole-house regulator, like we did, that the wok comes equipped with a built-in regulator (similar to most small grills).
Hi there, i just have a question why you didn't just connect the new line going to the bbq to the existing propane regulator already there instead of getting a new one?
The onboard regulator brings the pressure way down to a level that would not allow it enough pressure to feed the grill all the way on the other side of the RV. The additional regulator we added has considerably higher pressure, but still far less than the tank pressure with no regulator at all.
@@RVgeeks thank you. Do you suggest I add another regulator when I am trying to run a line for the bbq?
@@blackincawston If the run of hose is going to be more than a few feet, the addition of a 15PSI regulator, like the one we added, will prevent the oily build up over time that we experienced.
@@RVgeeks thank you again for the reply. I am probably looking for use a 2-3 feet hose as the bbq will be in a platform against the camper
No need for an additional regulator for such a short run of hose! 👍
Has it been a problem that the gas is running thru 2 regulators? One at the tank and one at the grill?
No problem at all! That’s because the 15 PSI regulator at the tank is still MUCH higher than the one at the grill. So it acts as a step-down regulator to prevent oil buildup in the long hose, while still providing plenty of pressure for the grill.
Interesting. Trying to figure out if it will be a problem with the coach I just bought. Grand design 265bh. It has an lp quick connect, but have heard it may be a problem running through 2 regs
@@core8967 You could try contacting Grand Design to ask them if the propane supply to the quick connect is high/low pressure. But our guess would be that it's low pressure (i.e. after/downstream from the onboard pressure regulator) and that it's intended to be used with a grill that doesn't have a regulator. We haven't heard of any RV manufacturer that supplies high pressure propane to the factory-installed quick connects.
Great video. I just picked up a Jayco Travel Trailer and it's already pre-plumbed with the quick release plug in the back. I was looking through your links and can't quite figure out the combination I need to make mine work. I need to go from the quick connect that's already there, to get adapted to the normal 20lb propane connection that my grill has. Any suggestions to links on what I'd need to do that. I must need more than 1 or 2 things, because I can normally come up with the combo browsing Amazon, but not happening today.
Oh boy, Kraig. Can’t help you specifically on this, but a couple of things to consider. First, is that propane connection high or low pressure (before/after the onboard regulator). Because if it’s LOW pressure, you’ll need to consider that and ensure you remove the regulator from the grill. And you’ll need to know because the connectors for high pressure quick releases are different than low pressure ones, so you’ll need to be sure to get the right adapter or else it won’t work. Sorry we can’t be more help!
Yeah, I'm an idiot. I didn't realize how it connected to my current grill, I assumed it was a solid connection, but it wasn't. I threaded off the hose with the regulator, and installed a line I got on amazon and it worked like butter. I just needed a "T" for my quick coupler gas line, so I ordered one of those, and now I can have my grill and my stove burning at the same time. Thanks for the info.
Silly question and maybe I missed it. But the grill has a regulator as well, so would you not be double regulating the propane pressure here? Also if I were to remove the male quick connect from the grill, could I use the lithe green bottles again if needed?
Great question! The only problem you'd have with double regulation is using two of the typical 11" water column regulators, which equals about 0.5 PSI and are the same type that come fitted to the grill. We overcame that problem by using a 15 PSI regulator where the hose comes out of the RV's tank. That is low enough pressure to prevent the oily build-up in the hose, but plenty strong enough pressure to avoid a double regulation issue. And yes, you can easily remove the quick-connect from the grill any time you'd like to use the little bottles again, such as during a trip away from the RV.
RVgeeks - I have a class A that has a port on the passenger side for just this use. I purchased and hooked up everything in your post here from that port to the grill (same grill as yours). I had no pressure at all. So I took the hose and connectors apart and started putting them on, opening the gas on each one to see where the flow stops. It stopped with the hose. I get nothing coming from the hose when I open the gas. I tested this by opening the line slowly and listening for the gas, but nothing happens. What do you recommend? (I'm using all the parts from this posting). As always, thank you for your help. These posts really help people like me.
Hi Daniel! We're pretty sure that the first problem your having is the connection on the hose. Some have a little plunger in the end that seals when not connected to another fitting. That means the fitting that goes into it has to include the pin that pushes into the opposing fitting to allow propane to flow. The end of the hose is self-sealing, and needs that pin to push into it to open the flow. Also, it's quite possible that even if you get the propane to flow, it might not work with your port. If your port is already regulated down to 11" WC (eleven inches water column, or standard operating pressure), you'll either need to remove the regulator on you grill (we know... it's part of the control knob so not easy to do), or get a grill with no regulator on it. You should be able to check with your manufacturer to find out if the port is already regulated to 11" WC. If it is, a non regulated grill is required to prevent double regulation, which limits the flow below what the grill requires to operate. Hope this isn't too confusing, and hope it helps.
@@RVgeeks You were right on the issue... I actually just took a small drill bit and drilled out the plunger part and then removed the regulator ... works every time. Thanks all.
Hi and thanks for the demonstration! I’m curious if you have ever dealt with situations where spacing is much tighter between the vapor exit and the regulator box such as on a Coachmen Freelander (Class C)? The tank appears to be the same as yours, however it appears that I would literally need to cut into or relocate the regulator box cover in order to make something work since there appears to be only about 1 inch of spacing between the two. Any advice would be appreciated. I can also send a photo upon request. Thanks.
Brandon Guffey Hi Brandon! We’ve only ever done this on our own Class A, with (obviously) plenty of extra room to work with. We know that with some Class Cs and other smaller rigs, space can be at a real premium. We think you you probably only have two options… One would be to move the onboard regulator to make room for the Extend-A-Stay, assuming you have room to do that. The other option would be to tee in (probably using a regular T fitting, and not an Extend-A-Stay) after the regulator, then use a grill that specifically can handle working with the lower pressure of the already regulated propane. That would probably mean finding a grill that did not have a regulator on it, and was designed to work off fully regulated house RV pressure. Hope this helps a bit.