The model sure is enjoying herself in this shoot. That is very important. As far as using soft flash, I'm all for it. The nice thing about flash is that it only travels so far. It won't reach the background. Even if the background is close. Just close the aperture small enough so it won't reach it, but still reach the model.
I like your down-to-earth, honest approach in this video. Your model is gorgeous & equally professional, a natural in front of the camera. Thanks for posting!
Another great, economical video. I wish I had a model to use that was so great at posing. Almost every composition is a winner with her poses. Great job 👍
this is a situation in which I often use my tiny built-in pop-up TTL flash to get a catch-light in the eyes or a little bit more impression in a model´s face and IMO it´s wrong to think that photographing with overcast natural light might be easier than with speedlites/flash or in harsh sunlight, all situations have their own challenges and their pros and cons and you have to know what to do in all cases to get interesting looking photos especially when photographing people and so nothing`s really wrong to know how to use speedlites/flashes properly in any situation, this knowledge, a speedlite and the courage to use it can help in many situations so IMO there are no bad conditions outdoors for portraits for instance, sometimes there are only not so well prepared or uniformed or less creative photograpers and of course sometimes not so motivated models, a circumstance that can rarely be influenced, somewhat warmer or more protective clothes could definitely help, much better than such little dresses as shown in this video, but such little dresses are always good for clickbaiting here on TH-cam 😉 this is my beloved EDC always-there modifier which I would use in a situation shown in this video, but not only then: Lastolite "Joe McNally Ezybox Speed-Lite 2 Plus" + small grip and of course with a TTL radio trigger system vimeo.com/233307651 - this also works under windy conditions, not only when I hold it in my left hand, it works even on a light stand, much better than a big softbox on a compact light stand
As a landscape photographer I love stormy skies, best time for bracketing your shots. For macro it can be good or terrible, never anywhere in between and for wildlife terrible. Fantastic shots Ed, and you explained everything wonderfully as usual. Another great video
Thanks a lot, Ed for another very informative vid. I really appreciate you show the comparisons with and without flashes, and bare flash and with the light modifier. The camera shutter, aperture and ISO info helps me understand your rational of why you select them. Thanks again.
Yup, I'm getting better at including more of that info in some of my videos. I was unsure about including the "with/without" flash examples, but you confirmed that it can be helpful. So, thanks for that.
@@edverosky . Thanks Ed. The "with/without" flash comparisons DEFINITELY help me. They clearly demonstrate the effect of the bare flash/with modifier. They help me to think of what the final result will look like and how to achieve it. Thanks again. Really enjoy your vids.
Great video Ed, I'm lazy so I keep the flash on camera an point it at my 43 inch reflector either behind me or off to the left or right on a stand, this way no softbox or triggers to carry. Also I flag the front part of the flash so no light hits the model. Sincerely The lazy photographer
You're the coolest Ed! Love your videos, you explain things in more detail and still keep it easier to understand more than any other channel i watch. Keep it up and thanks!
You mention using a shutter speed of 1/250 to stop camera shake. With flash I've found that I can shoot at a much slower shutter speed. In fact I have no problem using shutter speeds as low as 1/50 even at my advanced age (71).
Yes flash help freezes motions, however there is one thing why you might want to use faster shutter speeds : output. The faster the burst is, the more output you get. With HSS technology, breaking the 1/250th wall up to 8000th, you can over-power mid-day sun with ease! It sounds counter-intuitive, but a small HSS strobe become incredibly powerful and is all you need at noon. Even speed-lites gets incredibly more powerful. This tech kinda hacks into the exposure triangle... anyway, I'm drifting away from the main subject here, which is to use flash in overcast conditions. Still you might want a faster shutter speed to get more output. At 1/50th most modern cameras don't have much problems but if you don't have sensor stabilization and don't use a tripod you definitely risk blur (I say you risk it, not that you will get it).
Great information plus you helped me clear up the confusion on my end with the f2.8. I thought only with a lower f stop like a 5.6 or f8 could my pictures be sharp.
Ed, this is a pretty darn good video. Very nicely presented. Thanks for doing this. Lighting is my weakest area simply because I don't do portraits... I do country concerts, horse racing/rodeos, and real estate. Now, inside real estate I do indeed use flash but differently than for a model. Think I'll subscribe.
Fantastic demo EV! May favorite shots were the ones with flash starting at about 5:8 mins., the model looked regal! I was led to believe that overcast skies were better for outdoors portraits, this demonstrates one needs a bit of soft-box lighting, eh.
Great vid, Ed. Useful. I was hesitant to go above maybe ISO 250, but now I will try it; the Sony is great for giving a little extra margin without too much noise. For the bare flash shots, how far was the flash from the model?
You can use a flat panel silver or gold reflector just off to her left. Fill flash should give only enough light to the subject to make the viewer wonder “did he or didn’t he”.
Hey Ed, nice video man. Not sure if its because I have been away and coming back with fresh eyes, but this video seems more polished (meaning no disrespect). Any way great advice and images examples. Now I have a studio and coming back with a different mindset I am eager to start shooting again. Great to see you still making these and loving the tips :) I personally love the more natural look when shooting outdoors than the bare flash head
Hello i like your video as much better. I am wondering: do u use your manual mode (S1) for speedlight to connect M group and channel to match on your x1 trigger? I have tt600 and will x1 trigger will work? I don’t want x2t because it too much for me
I have difficulty using left arm & I really struggle w/ tripod, ppl said get a gimball head & problems go away. They haven’t gone away. 2 Sigma 18-300 Sigma lens’s have face planted & are now accordions. I do my best w/ 150-600 but I shoot in fear. That’s no way to shoot & it shows. When I attach 150-600 on Oben gimbal head I use my chin to hold for safety. I don’t want a disability to stop my love of photography. I’m interested in what you have to help ppl manage their equipment. Thank you 4 any help you can offer.
I don’t have an immediate solution in terms of gear but I’ll think about it. But what did come to mind was positioning something that would protect the lens IF there was a slip of the tripod head. Possibly a thick piece of foam (small pillow size) attached with a cord/lanyard? Hang it at just the right height if the camera slips downward.
@@edverosky thank you for taking the time to help me with advice. I love photography & I can’t let my disability stop a dream of mine. Thank you so much.🙏🏻
Good explanation and great samples working from a poor lighting to a good lighting condition. But there is a culprit and you are shooting on that edge, but still have it under control, that's proof that you understand it by nature, but forgot to mention it. Allow me to explain: When you flash and don't use enough diffusion the chance that the profound face parts (nose, chin, cheekbones) will become over exposed and loose detail (plastic faces). That over the top white gloss I am talking about, is very disturbing and takes the attention from the shot, especially with people with an oily skin. But the worst thing is, if you want that recovered in post you are in for a job. Try this: Take a JPG shot with those overexposed cheeks and nose, try to get rid of that in PS whilst keeping saturation, vibrance, sharpness to the other parts of the image. Problem is, there in no information in those spot so recovering is a drag. Thanks for sharing, job well done `!
@@edverosky You know what came to my attention: The Rogue Flashbender. Quite promising for in the field when you don't want to bring an umbrella or big diffusor. I am going to check one out at my shop.
Me, too. I just wasn’t going to take that huge thing outdoors that day. It looks calm enough in the video, but for awhile there, we had rain and lightning!
I just did a photoshoot of three subjects recently and I was really struggling. It was on a dark, overcast day, I don’t want to open up my aperture more than 4.0, because it’ll be too hard get to get all of them in focus with a 135mm lens. I dropped the shutter speed from 100-125, iso 200, but the background was even darker with the flash. Any tips on how to shoot groups on an overcast day? And how do I make the background brighter with flash on a dark overcast day esp if the subjects are posing in front of very shadowy tree bushes and etc ?
sorry, but in some photos the flash is a bit to dominant for me, but that´s all in the eyes of the beholder and yes, the difference between natural light and flash should be made very clear
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The model sure is enjoying herself in this shoot. That is very important. As far as using soft flash, I'm all for it. The nice thing about flash is that it only travels so far. It won't reach the background. Even if the background is close. Just close the aperture small enough so it won't reach it, but still reach the model.
I like your down-to-earth, honest approach in this video. Your model is gorgeous & equally professional, a natural in front of the camera. Thanks for posting!
Another great video tips with clearly explained. Thank you 😊
Another great, economical video. I wish I had a model to use that was so great at posing. Almost every composition is a winner with her poses. Great job 👍
I have seen two of your tutorial videos so far and I think your insight on the subjects you touch is awesome. I'm definitely subscribing. Thanks.
Slightly overcast is my favorite weather to shoot! The clouds diffuse the light, and it's just SO easier to manage than full blown-out sun.
this is a situation in which I often use my tiny built-in pop-up TTL flash to get a catch-light in the eyes or a little bit more impression in a model´s face and IMO it´s wrong to think that photographing with overcast natural light might be easier than with speedlites/flash or in harsh sunlight, all situations have their own challenges and their pros and cons and you have to know what to do in all cases to get interesting looking photos especially when photographing people and so nothing`s really wrong to know how to use speedlites/flashes properly in any situation, this knowledge, a speedlite and the courage to use it can help in many situations
so IMO there are no bad conditions outdoors for portraits for instance, sometimes there are only not so well prepared or uniformed or less creative photograpers and of course sometimes not so motivated models, a circumstance that can rarely be influenced, somewhat warmer or more protective clothes could definitely help, much better than such little dresses as shown in this video, but such little dresses are always good for clickbaiting here on TH-cam 😉
this is my beloved EDC always-there modifier which I would use in a situation shown in this video, but not only then: Lastolite "Joe McNally Ezybox Speed-Lite 2 Plus" + small grip and of course with a TTL radio trigger system vimeo.com/233307651 - this also works under windy conditions, not only when I hold it in my left hand, it works even on a light stand, much better than a big softbox on a compact light stand
As always excellent video!
Been getting your emails for awhile and just checked out your TH-cam! Subscribed. Great stuff. Thanks!!!
As a landscape photographer I love stormy skies, best time for bracketing your shots. For macro it can be good or terrible, never anywhere in between and for wildlife terrible.
Fantastic shots Ed, and you explained everything wonderfully as usual. Another great video
Thanks so much, Mark
Wonderful use of lighting conditions
Thanks, Cee 🙏🏽
Thanks for the tips.
Nice work with cost effective gears.
Thank you 🙏🏽
Great job, Ed.
Ed, you're great man! Thanks for always keeping it simple, straight to the point and professional! Thanks!
Kat is such an incredible model!
Great video thank you! Was this the 24" Lastolite Ezybox or a larger size?
Thanks a lot, Ed for another very informative vid. I really appreciate you show the comparisons with and without flashes, and bare flash and with the light modifier. The camera shutter, aperture and ISO info helps me understand your rational of why you select them. Thanks again.
Yup, I'm getting better at including more of that info in some of my videos. I was unsure about including the "with/without" flash examples, but you confirmed that it can be helpful. So, thanks for that.
@@edverosky . Thanks Ed. The "with/without" flash comparisons DEFINITELY help me. They clearly demonstrate the effect of the bare flash/with modifier. They help me to think of what the final result will look like and how to achieve it. Thanks again. Really enjoy your vids.
LongTimeTTFan Yes. Plus one.
Thank you, Ed!
You got it, Lonnie.
Muchas gracias.
Good tips
Great video Ed, I'm lazy so I keep the flash on camera an point it at my 43 inch reflector either behind me or off to the left or right on a stand, this way no softbox or triggers to carry. Also I flag the front part of the flash so no light hits the model.
Sincerely The lazy photographer
No that’s a good way to do it. Indoors especially. Bounce flash FTW. I’m super lazy, BTW. 😂
Thank you very much
You're the coolest Ed! Love your videos, you explain things in more detail and still keep it easier to understand more than any other channel i watch. Keep it up and thanks!
You mention using a shutter speed of 1/250 to stop camera shake. With flash I've found that I can shoot at a much slower shutter speed. In fact I have no problem using shutter speeds as low as 1/50 even at my advanced age (71).
Yes flash help freezes motions, however there is one thing why you might want to use faster shutter speeds : output. The faster the burst is, the more output you get. With HSS technology, breaking the 1/250th wall up to 8000th, you can over-power mid-day sun with ease! It sounds counter-intuitive, but a small HSS strobe become incredibly powerful and is all you need at noon. Even speed-lites gets incredibly more powerful. This tech kinda hacks into the exposure triangle... anyway, I'm drifting away from the main subject here, which is to use flash in overcast conditions. Still you might want a faster shutter speed to get more output. At 1/50th most modern cameras don't have much problems but if you don't have sensor stabilization and don't use a tripod you definitely risk blur (I say you risk it, not that you will get it).
Pretty useful info Ed! Thanks!
Great information plus you helped me clear up the confusion on my end with the f2.8. I thought only with a lower f stop like a 5.6 or f8 could my pictures be sharp.
Great video nice
Muchas gracias
Ed, this is a pretty darn good video. Very nicely presented. Thanks for doing this. Lighting is my weakest area simply because I don't do portraits... I do country concerts, horse racing/rodeos, and real estate. Now, inside real estate I do indeed use flash but differently than for a model. Think I'll subscribe.
Thanks, James
Thanks Ed! Another good one! 👍😉
Thanks a lot! great job! Im learning a lot thanks to your videos. Other thanks for the beauty and professional model.
Fantastic demo EV! May favorite shots were the ones with flash starting at about 5:8 mins., the model looked regal! I was led to believe that overcast skies were better for outdoors portraits, this demonstrates one needs a bit of soft-box lighting, eh.
Thanks, Rick. I prefer some clouds, but heavy overcast is too much Lol.
Great vid, Ed. Useful. I was hesitant to go above maybe ISO 250, but now I will try it; the Sony is great for giving a little extra margin without too much noise. For the bare flash shots, how far was the flash from the model?
I'd say about 6 ft.
You can use a flat panel silver or gold reflector just off to her left. Fill flash should give only enough light to the subject to make the viewer wonder “did he or didn’t he”.
Hey Ed, nice video man. Not sure if its because I have been away and coming back with fresh eyes, but this video seems more polished (meaning no disrespect). Any way great advice and images examples. Now I have a studio and coming back with a different mindset I am eager to start shooting again. Great to see you still making these and loving the tips :) I personally love the more natural look when shooting outdoors than the bare flash head
I’ve been following your studio progress! And thanks for the kind words on the video. I’m making incremental improvements over time.
Great - Speedlights and Strobes should be used outdoors much more often...
Hello i like your video as much better. I am wondering: do u use your manual mode (S1) for speedlight to connect M group and channel to match on your x1 trigger?
I have tt600 and will x1 trigger will work? I don’t want x2t because it too much for me
Awesome! Seriously, thanks. I might need to refer back to this video for something I've got coming up next week.
I’m looking forward to seeing what you come up with!
What does changing the iso do when using off camera flash?
I have difficulty using left arm & I really struggle w/ tripod, ppl said get a gimball head & problems go away. They haven’t gone away. 2 Sigma 18-300 Sigma lens’s have face planted & are now accordions. I do my best w/ 150-600 but I shoot in fear. That’s no way to shoot & it shows. When I attach 150-600 on Oben gimbal head I use my chin to hold for safety. I don’t want a disability to stop my love of photography. I’m interested in what you have to help ppl manage their equipment. Thank you 4 any help you can offer.
I don’t have an immediate solution in terms of gear but I’ll think about it. But what did come to mind was positioning something that would protect the lens IF there was a slip of the tripod head. Possibly a thick piece of foam (small pillow size) attached with a cord/lanyard? Hang it at just the right height if the camera slips downward.
@@edverosky thank you for taking the time to help me with advice. I love photography & I can’t let my disability stop a dream of mine. Thank you so much.🙏🏻
Good explanation and great samples working from a poor lighting to a good lighting condition.
But there is a culprit and you are shooting on that edge, but still have it under control, that's proof that you understand it by nature, but forgot to mention it.
Allow me to explain: When you flash and don't use enough diffusion the chance that the profound face parts (nose, chin, cheekbones) will become over exposed and loose detail (plastic faces).
That over the top white gloss I am talking about, is very disturbing and takes the attention from the shot, especially with people with an oily skin.
But the worst thing is, if you want that recovered in post you are in for a job.
Try this: Take a JPG shot with those overexposed cheeks and nose, try to get rid of that in PS whilst keeping saturation, vibrance, sharpness to the other parts of the image. Problem is, there in no information in those spot so recovering is a drag.
Thanks for sharing, job well done `!
You are absolutely right about that. I cross that line regularly unfortunately. 😂
@@edverosky You know what came to my attention: The Rogue Flashbender. Quite promising for in the field when you don't want to bring an umbrella or big diffusor. I am going to check one out at my shop.
Just what I've looking for. I love how detailed you explain the process, great videos. Your model is a plus as well, easy on the eyes.
Hi, What was the trigger used for YN560 IV ? Can you give more details on that ?
Thanks a lot sir. Can you give us one raw photos of her with flash?
would have loved to see the results using your Apollo Orb
Me, too. I just wasn’t going to take that huge thing outdoors that day. It looks calm enough in the video, but for awhile there, we had rain and lightning!
@@edverosky plus it can be difficult when the wind is kicking up...still love seeing it in action!
I just did a photoshoot of three subjects recently and I was really struggling. It was on a dark, overcast day, I don’t want to open up my aperture more than 4.0, because it’ll be too hard get to get all of them in focus with a 135mm lens. I dropped the shutter speed from 100-125, iso 200, but the background was even darker with the flash. Any tips on how to shoot groups on an overcast day? And how do I make the background brighter with flash on a dark overcast day esp if the subjects are posing in front of very shadowy tree bushes and etc ?
You can get great shots by using spot metering in overcast situations. One of my best shots was takwn like that.
Interesting. How does spot-metering improve exposure in those conditions versus matrix metering? I'm genuinely curious.
Spot meter a grey area and lock exposure. Similar to metering a grey card.
sorry, but in some photos the flash is a bit to dominant for me, but that´s all in the eyes of the beholder and yes, the difference between natural light and flash should be made very clear
Name of lightstand??
Impact LS-8A1
looks like silvestre Stalone
Namashkar
. If models with not so ideal body type were shot it wont look that ideal. Need help with their photos and lighting techniques
If models with not so ideal body type were shot it wont look that ideal. Need help with their photos and lighting techniques.