Hey, I am working on a T1200xe which has a grenaded power supply from cap juice. I saw you did a T1600 PSU schematic on Vogons, but there are a few differences that I cannot figure out. This one, there is IC14, 15, and 17 which are completely eaten away. They all appear to have the marking "C5" which your T1600 doesn't show in the schematic so they mustn't have been used in that model. SMD Codebook points to an LDO regulator, but there's no suffix markings to indicate voltage so I am having a hard time believing this is the correct information and its likely something else. They look like a SOT-23 with 5 legs instead of 3. Also IC13 which appears to be your IC15, part of the RAM power control is also eaten away. Any thoughts? Thanks!
I have this exact pc coming in around 2 weeks, I hope the psu works 😰 mine doesn't come with an ac adapter though, so I'll have to find some way to give it some juice Definitely using this series as a guide for restoration, thanks in advance!!
I hope my series can be of help to you. Also check out my website, it has some more in-depth information. When you get it, do _not_ plug it in. I can almost 100% guarantee the caps are dead and applying power would result in more damage. Replace all the caps in the PSU first.
@@BecklyCrackers_18thFloor unfortunately the motherboard was absolutely wrecked, the screen too, and it was filthy, i salvaged what I could but its very dead
I have finally got around to watching this video. Yours is in a much worse state than mine was, but mine doesn't work anyway. Still getting the flashing red light of doom, so hopefully I will find the problem :)
There was a NZ based seller on ebay with a bunch of Harris 25MHz 286es. might be a neat upgrade if you want to go all-in :P Just avoid the chinese sellers with their fakes (reall harris have white printed text, not lasered. also no datecodes from 2019 or even 1997). Also those Conner HDDs were usually pretty reliable (except for a few common problems with the seals and stoppers). They're mainly known for not being the fastest drives, no matter what generation we're talking about. Also at 14:10 in the center about a centimeter above the yellow line that goes from left to right there's a cremated transistor (hole in it) Q29 if i read that correctly
Those Harris 286es sound interesting, I will definitely look in to that. The Conner HDDs I have worked with in the past were mostly laptop models and those suffer a number of problems, hence my statement about reliability. I have since learned about the seals and stoppers in the 3.5" drives and will look into that. I got the drive working (for now) but I will probably get it out for future-proofing at a later stage. As for Q29, you have a sharp eye. I did not notice it at first but it played a prominent part in the troubleshooting and repair of the PSU, as will be evident in the next couple of videos :)
Also really liked the detachable screen. Never seen it before.
This will be a hard computer to restore. But in the end, when it's fully restored, you'll feal accomplished ;) Hope you manage to restore it.
Hey, I am working on a T1200xe which has a grenaded power supply from cap juice. I saw you did a T1600 PSU schematic on Vogons, but there are a few differences that I cannot figure out.
This one, there is IC14, 15, and 17 which are completely eaten away. They all appear to have the marking "C5" which your T1600 doesn't show in the schematic so they mustn't have been used in that model. SMD Codebook points to an LDO regulator, but there's no suffix markings to indicate voltage so I am having a hard time believing this is the correct information and its likely something else. They look like a SOT-23 with 5 legs instead of 3.
Also IC13 which appears to be your IC15, part of the RAM power control is also eaten away.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
I have this exact pc coming in around 2 weeks, I hope the psu works 😰 mine doesn't come with an ac adapter though, so I'll have to find some way to give it some juice
Definitely using this series as a guide for restoration, thanks in advance!!
I hope my series can be of help to you. Also check out my website, it has some more in-depth information.
When you get it, do _not_ plug it in. I can almost 100% guarantee the caps are dead and applying power would result in more damage. Replace all the caps in the PSU first.
@@thowij ah, i see! Any place youd recommend for getting those caps?
@@Rotoscoptic I get mine from conrad.com as they are EU-based and have most capacitors I need.
Outside the EU I would check Mouser or Digikey.
Were you able to find a ac adapter? Thank you.
@@BecklyCrackers_18thFloor unfortunately the motherboard was absolutely wrecked, the screen too, and it was filthy, i salvaged what I could but its very dead
I have finally got around to watching this video. Yours is in a much worse state than mine was, but mine doesn't work anyway. Still getting the flashing red light of doom, so hopefully I will find the problem :)
Thanks! Great video! However i hope you through away your cam already , as most probably auto-focus got corroded :D
There was a NZ based seller on ebay with a bunch of Harris 25MHz 286es. might be a neat upgrade if you want to go all-in :P Just avoid the chinese sellers with their fakes (reall harris have white printed text, not lasered. also no datecodes from 2019 or even 1997). Also those Conner HDDs were usually pretty reliable (except for a few common problems with the seals and stoppers). They're mainly known for not being the fastest drives, no matter what generation we're talking about.
Also at 14:10 in the center about a centimeter above the yellow line that goes from left to right there's a cremated transistor (hole in it) Q29 if i read that correctly
Those Harris 286es sound interesting, I will definitely look in to that.
The Conner HDDs I have worked with in the past were mostly laptop models and those suffer a number of problems, hence my statement about reliability.
I have since learned about the seals and stoppers in the 3.5" drives and will look into that. I got the drive working (for now) but I will probably get it out for future-proofing at a later stage.
As for Q29, you have a sharp eye. I did not notice it at first but it played a prominent part in the troubleshooting and repair of the PSU, as will be evident in the next couple of videos :)
I have the machine. Giving DC IN light red. But won’t turn On
Hello! I just started looking into a T1600 for a friend, these videos will be helpful. Thank you! Likes and subscribe from me. :)