I gather together all the parts of my 1974 MGB 18V engine, assess what I have, what parts I need and what needs to be done. Of course, straight away there are issues to contend with!
I have an MGB as well and rebuilt the engine. How I mounted the engine to the stand was on the spark plug side of the block using some extensions (cut thickwall pipe) to even out the mounts. Putting the mounts on the side of the block lets you rotate the engine and still have access to both from and back of the block. You can google examples of it from others who have done similar. Also, at 7:20 I believe the clamp seen on the crank should be on the outside of the backing plate, not attached to the engine side. It is used to hold the oil seal in place, although to be honest you really don't need it if you use some sealant on the oil seal seat.
On another TH-cam video a bloke engaged a machine shop for preheating new pistons no get the gudgeon pins inside in an easier way. My guess is the reverse action is also possible. Personally I have only lifted the B-block twice over the years to renew pressure plate, clutch plate and TO bearing and this block is indeed incredibly heavy to lift. The first time I also renewed the seal on the gearbox front and recently I had to lift the head to solve a hanging valve problem. So even engine jobs can come unexpectely to all of us.
Good to see realistic rebuilds like this. I can relate to so much of this when doing jobs. Even after years of buying tools and learning new tricks the job always throws up some surprises. Thanks for the great videos
Fitzee is Canadian hes a Newfie! From New Foundland the last province to join confederation and leave the UK and become part of Canada. Theyre amazing people!
They are so heavy! I bought my B with the engine and box out of the car. Trying to get the whole assembly up my not very steep drive with three people and a winch was hilarious 🤣
Hi Ross, I've been watching your MG videos and this is great stuff 👍, thanks for all the content I'm learning loads and this motivates me and gives me confidence to work on the jobs on my rubber bumper MGB, keep up the good work Sir 👏
Thank you very much Richard! I'm glad you've been enjoying the videos. I'm on a bit of a break from the MG at the moment but I will get back to it. I'm glad I've been a source of motivation for you!
Not sure if four cylinder head studs could be removed and used to mount engine to stand, but, being so long would need packing out with loads of washers or some tube sleeving.
On the pistons, I wonder if the WD40 to prevent corrosion caused the problem or exacerbated it. Have had similar problems caused by WD40. Have found PlusGas better for such things, it acts as a decent corrosion preventer in my experience.
That's an interesting thought actually. They've been soaking in paraffin since Wednesday anyway so hopefully that'll do the trick. Otherwise I might need to try and get the gudgeon pins out.
thumbs up on the video, but...WD40 is NOT oil. "WD" stands for "water displacement". use real oil, WD40 will not prevent oxidation. and BTW, if you can afford to get oversized pistons and bore out the block. do it. those ridges mean that the piston rings will have to take up all that slop between the pistons (putting a lot of stress on them) and the worn cylinders walls and consequently wear out much sooner than they would otherwise.
Yeah I reckon so too. With a name like that, he's most likely of Irish descent, and his accent sometimes has an Irish twang to it, which I've heard can be the way with people from Newfoundland.
It'll be the new year before I have it back. It's coming along and will be driving when I get it. There'll still be a couple of jobs to do on it though.
I have an MGB as well and rebuilt the engine. How I mounted the engine to the stand was on the spark plug side of the block using some extensions (cut thickwall pipe) to even out the mounts. Putting the mounts on the side of the block lets you rotate the engine and still have access to both from and back of the block. You can google examples of it from others who have done similar.
Also, at 7:20 I believe the clamp seen on the crank should be on the outside of the backing plate, not attached to the engine side. It is used to hold the oil seal in place, although to be honest you really don't need it if you use some sealant on the oil seal seat.
On another TH-cam video a bloke engaged a machine shop for preheating new pistons no get the gudgeon pins inside in an easier way. My guess is the reverse action is also possible. Personally I have only lifted the B-block twice over the years to renew pressure plate, clutch plate and TO bearing and this block is indeed incredibly heavy to lift. The first time I also renewed the seal on the gearbox front and recently I had to lift the head to solve a hanging valve problem. So even engine jobs can come unexpectely to all of us.
Good to see realistic rebuilds like this. I can relate to so much of this when doing jobs. Even after years of buying tools and learning new tricks the job always throws up some surprises. Thanks for the great videos
Thanks. Hopefully I'll have more of an update coming soon.
Fitzee is Canadian hes a Newfie! From New Foundland the last province to join confederation and leave the UK and become part of Canada. Theyre amazing people!
I'm shortly going to start a rebuild on an 18GB engine, in a 67 Roadster, so it's great to get an advance idea of the pitfalls. Thanks very much.
Crankshaft end float is adjusted by thrust washers in the center main bearing.
Great, thanks for that info. I'll be following the manual as I go anyway.
They are so heavy! I bought my B with the engine and box out of the car. Trying to get the whole assembly up my not very steep drive with three people and a winch was hilarious 🤣
Hi Ross, I've been watching your MG videos and this is great stuff 👍, thanks for all the content I'm learning loads and this motivates me and gives me confidence to work on the jobs on my rubber bumper MGB, keep up the good work Sir 👏
Thank you very much Richard! I'm glad you've been enjoying the videos. I'm on a bit of a break from the MG at the moment but I will get back to it. I'm glad I've been a source of motivation for you!
Not sure if four cylinder head studs could be removed and used to mount engine to stand, but, being so long would need packing out with loads of washers or some tube sleeving.
Good idea, but I'm going to need the head studs when the engine is still in the stand. I'll go and buy some longer bolts in the next week or so.
if you warm up piston in oven it might free it off , dont forget to put the piston back in right hole there are different
the heavey engine block is to keep it on the ground😂
On the pistons, I wonder if the WD40 to prevent corrosion caused the problem or exacerbated it. Have had similar problems caused by WD40. Have found PlusGas better for such things, it acts as a decent corrosion preventer in my experience.
That's an interesting thought actually. They've been soaking in paraffin since Wednesday anyway so hopefully that'll do the trick. Otherwise I might need to try and get the gudgeon pins out.
thumbs up on the video, but...WD40 is NOT oil. "WD" stands for "water displacement". use real oil, WD40 will not prevent oxidation.
and BTW, if you can afford to get oversized pistons and bore out the block. do it. those ridges mean that the piston rings will have to take up all that slop between the pistons (putting a lot of stress on them) and the worn cylinders walls and consequently wear out much sooner than they would otherwise.
Brilliant!
Arm the pistons up and use duck oil we dries out
Warm the pistons up and use context duck oil we dries out
I'm hoping my engine is ok. Was supposedly reconditioned 3k miles and 20 years ago. Should be going back in and having first start Jan or Feb
Engine seems good and restoration is going well! th-cam.com/video/CBOLNkz9r6I/w-d-xo.html
Put the piston head upside down, in boiling water.
Thé boiling water for the wrist pin problem would free up the pistons and allow them to be lubricated with oil
I'll look at that option if the paraffin I have them soaking in doesn't free them up. Thanks!
Fitzee is a Newfie from Newfoundland, Canada by the sounds of it.
Yeah I reckon so too. With a name like that, he's most likely of Irish descent, and his accent sometimes has an Irish twang to it, which I've heard can be the way with people from Newfoundland.
does the "manual" tell you to use a chisel on the flywheel bolts?
It was to bend back the tab washer.
change the glow plugs in the camper
I fixed the issue in a subsequent video. Thanks anyway!
Soak the pistons in diesel to free them up
I've left them soaking in paraffin since Wednesday. Hopefully that does the trick. Thanks!
Sorry to change the subject but any news on the beetle
It'll be the new year before I have it back. It's coming along and will be driving when I get it. There'll still be a couple of jobs to do on it though.
when do you rebuild the Ferrari?
If you want to buy me a Ferrari, I'll gladly fix it up and film my progress! 😀
Why rebuild what a faff.... Just drop a recon engine in....
The enjoyment, sense of accomplishment, financial... there are many reasons!
Come on mate, that honing is terrible, if this is the way you work I’m out.