Faster & Less Stressful Threading on the Lathe
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- This video describes a variation of a method for cutting screw threads on a lathe by traversing the cutter away from the lathe headstock, thus avoiding the problem of having to achieve a near-instant disengagement of the cutting tool at the end of each cut.
Great video! I love the new option, i work at a modern cnc shop and many of these conventional techniques are not passed on. This is a great technique for my home hobby shop!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. A threading boring bar with full form inserts can produce RH internal and external threads saving the cost of external inserts.
I like to keep my compound slide parallel with the lathe axis and advancing the tool half the depth of cut on each pass to keep the cutting on the leading edge of the tool. It simulates advancing at 30 degrees but gives a direct thread depth reading on the cross slide.
This needs more credit
Michael, great alternative to running the tool upside down.....great video production,
something you do not read or see in the old books or TH-cam.....cheers, Paul
Thanks!
Great information. This is the kind of stuff that help novice to mid level machinists stay in a job. Thank you very much.
You're welcome, and thanks for commenting.
A nice take on a potentially stressful situation especially if the lathe operator doesn't need to cut many threads. Am appreciative of this method as the tool is the right way up. I don't do it often but when I need to and can keep up the work standard.....well, then I'm happy. Many thanks for this video.
@AJWhittlebang Thanks for taking the time to comment.
It's a great method in my opinion ! I've used it a handful of times learning about it from Joe Pieczynski and Pierre's Garage ..... your point about remembering to re-start the lathe in reverse is well taken ..... I learned the hard way. No major damage, just hurt pride ;)
Thanks for the video, it was well made ! Looking forward to your future content ! Cheers !
Yes, I've learned quite a bit from watching Joe Pie's excellent tutorials, including the basic principles of the technique outlined here, only he forgot to mention the one fly in the ointment that you discovered on your own. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Very interesting, Im a self taught and TH-cam educated machinist. And im currently learning to thread, crashing the tool is definitely a concern ive been dealing with. And I think this will help get me threading experience and allow me to gain the experience I need. More lathe time is always good thing. So what other tricks do you have to share with us new guys.
I've been meaning to try this. I'm thinking that another advantage would be that you could set a carriage stop for your starting point, which would speed up the operation and it would be a huge help when cutting internal threads. Thanks. Regards.
This is a great comment.
Nice technique Mike, thanks!
Thanks for commenting, hope you find it useful in the real world.
Going to do this tonight but first gotta wrap my head around how to grind the bit for the 45º angle in the bar.
Mike I enjoy watching your videos. Look forward to the next one.
Thank you, and thanks for stopping by.
Good idea, thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching!
This is a good technique but you have to be aware of clearance angles. Looking at an external thread from the side you'll notice the threads appear sloped in one direction. This is the helix angle, and a threading tool has clearance built in so the sides of the tool don't bind against the material (one side requires more clearance due to the angle of the helix). Compared to an internal RH thread, an external thread being cut on the back side has the helix angle reversed. So your tool may not clear. Indexable tooling has clearance angles built into both the tool holder and the insert. Usually the clearance is less of a problem for fine pitch threads and/or larger diameters. Coarse threads and/or small diameters can give you problems due to the higher helix angles involved. It's the same situation when using a LH threading tool upside down to cut RH threads.
Thanks for sharing this excellent info.
great info on an issue I had not foreseen.. thank you, Paul
Great video! Do you use the compound for depth or plunge cut using the cross slide?
Greate thanks. Very helpful. I will definitely use it soon
nice job
Thanks ! ...subscribed !
What is the speed of threading in this video? it looks fast
My son is a mid-level machinist in Oregon, and I'm passing this on to him. Otherwise all I understood about cutting screw threads were "the", "away", "disengagement, " "and", and the adverbs and adjectives. It's okay, though, I could listen to you read the proverbial phone book. Great video as always. :)
Thanks for the comment. I read the phone book once, but found the plot uninteresting and the character development only so-so.😊
@@mikelevyonline lol
@@mikelevyonline but the cast of characters is enormous.
yep, nice, simple, applicable to, probably, 85-90% of threading jobs.
The upside-down tool method is pulling UP on the tool, not, probably, the way that the slide and compound are most rigid?
The tool-upside-down method probably works OK also; I'm not fond of it because the visibility of the tool tip isn't as good.
Nice, never thought of this. Anyway, I am out of business for quite a while.
How do you achieve that the cutter everytime comes back at the same position in the thread?
A very good question, and the answer to it may be found in any tutorial covering basic threading on the lathe.
On my lathe i think this is not possible. From the moment i switch in the "gear" for cutting thread, the lathe can not run without moving the support with the cutter. I only can change the direction of the cutter by changing the direction of rotation.
@@JC-pw3cn Again, refer to basic threading tutorials--I think you'll find it is possible on your lathe.
The dial indicator or a positioning stop will always bring you to the same position, the rest is up to the thread dial to chase the same thread lead.
Hello, great way to cut thread but i have chatter using 16irag60
The insert should work fine, there is a lack of rigidity somewhere in your setup.
@@mikelevyonline here my setup if you can or tell me if wrong.
Set compound 59.5 degrees same as 29.5, zero crossslide and dro, came in with compound. Using internal bore with 16irag60.
Your method is a great way to cutting threads.
Chatter is usually a rigidity issue. Perhaps your cutter is sticking out too far from the tool holder, or your depth of cut is too great.
@@mikelevyonline you’re right i figured out tool has to be on the center and rigidity. It is a best way to do threading peace of mind. I tried both methods tool upside down but your method so much better. Thank you.
you should consider the thread milling on an, Engine lath it allows you to cut Thread at a much reddest spindle speed. & can be adopted to even grater thread, sizes & good for the shorter thread lent. internal & External thread cutting. i was first intrust to the siystom By Stephon on is channel. Thread mill cutting on a manual lathe , by this system . I have an old English school lathe with no lead screw. fitted , But it allows the cutting of thread's by the ues of the feed rack fin & course threads can be achieved tis way . But the lack of a thread cutting gag . prevent signal point threading., i never did find a way around cutting without a position gage , But mill-Threading dos not need a gage as it is better the slower the system run's once engaged & the slack it out . You can start & finish at any given point. The feed rat dictated by the set gearing adds an advantage to manfully feeding or mechanically driven feeds. I now cut threads. easily on my old English school, lath with out a led screw or its gage i recommend it . & it is something that land's it self to the smaller lathe as often they only have a hand powered led screw . & this form of mill trending siystom lend it self well . I hop you tack the time to check Stephon out . Les England .
if I run my lathe at a faster speed isn't the new problem engaging the half nut in the correct spot
In a way, yes. Even though you are limited to the spindle speed at which your reflexes can no longer let you reliably engage the half nut, that’s still considerably faster than conventional threading to a shoulder.
I know what you mean, that indicator really gets spinning at fast spindle speeds, cheers from Orlando, Paul
thats exactly how i do it
stress?? that is a result of lack of experience! practice and the stress are gone!!!
Technique will prove reliable receptivity.