It's important not to place the overflow hole too close to the barrier. It should be an inch or more below the barrier to make the roots air prune and not grow into the water reservoir and rot. It's an easy fix. If the hole is too close to the barrier just drill a hole or two at a lower level. You don't want to rot your roots.
… I agree … I’ve been watching videos that date back for years when the earth boxes were just coming into use and that air space was VERY important … through the years as people have modified the self watering boxes that critical feature has become overlooked …
Problem I found with a lot of water is that it can go rancid/ anaerobic. I make mine to hold about 2 gallons. My overflow is at the opposite end from my filler tube. When I water, I will keep watering for 5-10 seconds after it starts running out the overflow so you get some exchange going with fresh water/nutrients. Exterior boxes I paint white. In FL, black boxes cooked the roots. Just use a shot glass as a cover for fill tube. The screening will clocg up the air exchange between layers- especially if you have worms in your boxes.
@@theBullringLive I don't see how that could happen. The soil would go hydrophobic at worst and when the reservoir is filled again the soil will rehydrate and start wicking. People lose the wicking when they dont pack the corners in and the soil washes out.
@@guy6054 It has something to do with Hydro lift or some such that has to do with how high water can wick up. EB's were designed with that in mind. When we tweakers start making our own that theory gets thrown out. With my 27 gal boxes, I periodically have to top water to keep the soil damp all the way--mainly when fruiting/bloom
I've watched many videos on self watering containers, but you are the first one I've seen screening the water tube and overflow. I live in area with way to many mosquitoes, and my big concern would be creating stagnant water and getting more mosquitoes. Thanks for addressing that for me
Just because I'm paranoid about mosquitoes doesn't mean they aren't out to get me. Here is my favorite mass elimination method (which I have yet to try): www.reddit.com/r/homeowners/comments/b7b6x7/comment/ejqwymt/
Very helpful. Made one similar with a 17 gallon HDX. Got it all made with starts setting out in the garden. I used wood chips for mulch instead of plastic sheet. Then, last night it started to rain. Got up early with an idea to prevent water logging. Tomato cage in the middle of the container; 55 gallon clear trash bag to cover everything; hold in place with clothes pins around the rim. And it doubles as a mini-greenhouse until it warms up around here in a couple months! May need vent holes.
@@akomakomakom 44F today, 70F inside the bag. Greenhouse was 65F. Bug storm came thru today. Wind, rain... it held up fine. Realized today my tote is 12 gal not 17. Bought six 27 gal. and a box of 95 gal trash bags to fit over them.
Thank you for this video. Ive been looking for a covering to keep water out. I never knew about the turbo tomato red mulch sheet. I’m planning on ordering it. Great job on the planter. You knew every detail to make this box. We have 45 earth boxes. Some were purchases new, many were given to me from friends and family, and dozens were purchased from Craig’s list, garage sales etc. They can be pricy at startup but I’ve read where they can last 20 plus years. The man who invented this box lived in Ellenton FL. We’re in Bradenton, FL, one town over from Ellenton. They have a garden center there called The Earth Box Store. We have planted for many many seasons (7 or 8 years) and have had excellent success. Our neighbors love us. LOL. The reason I was so excited about the turbo tomato mulch sheet is because with 45 boxes and at $1.99 a cover that only lasts a season it can get quite pricey. I can make my own covers from this turbo tomato mulch sheet and I can get 4’ 50’ for $19.99. According to the website you can get two years out of the sheets. So thank you very much for that wonderful tip!
It's always nice to have options. Thanks for posting your video. You don't need the zip ties. The hot-melt glue gun should suffice for attaching the 4-inch supports and hold the weed-block fabric in place.
You're probably right. Hot glue is definitely faster than zip-ties. At one time I needed to move my boxes, and they bounced around a lot (down steps on a hand truck) while tilted on their sides. Hot glue would have potentially separated, allowing the supports to shift.
I would love to see this, but I wouldn't be surprised at all to see the airstone make a bug difference. If you have the option of using an airstone, do it. It sure makes a big difference in my noncirculating hydroponic buckets.
I'm a 75 year old gal and don't have your arm or wrist strength, so I stayed away from those super strong hard textured lids and went with containers that have smooth easy to cut out lids, cuz that extra step of having to cut off the "bumps" around the edges looked like way too much work! I also, for similar reasons, do not use the hard plastic drain pipes to support the shelf, I don't have a table circular saw, did not want to spend hours of sweat time sawing them by hand (probably crookedly) and I believe strongly in using what you have on hand. What I had on hand was lots of saved 5" high plastic planting pots from years past that I drilled full of holes and inverted under the shelf and they work fine to support it and form the water reservoir! Does not have to be dedicated drain pipes. When I ran out of them I went and bought more at the hardware supply store for $1.39 each. You could probably buy them in bulk online for a lot less but I wanted them immediately to finish a box.
Sounds brilliant, the pots are less work and probably similar cost. I agree, cutting the lids was my least favorite part. My initial plan was to use plastic grids for office fluorescent lights, but I couldn't find affordable sources. I probably should have used a jigsaw to cut the lids.
I tried this with landscape fabric 2 years ago and had to pull fabric out due to soil not draining and plants being water logged. THINK it needed more air at bottom.
I did wonder about this, since I have seen landscape fabric not allow water to freely run through, in fact it mostly runs off it. I wonder if the kind of fine mesh that you put on top of plants as an insect barrier mightn't be a better choice but of course that stuff is kind of pricy. I bet even plastic window screening would work though. Sure maybe the really fine silt particles would leach through but is that so terrible? You are going to clean it out at the end of the season anyway. I did wonder about the mosquito issue so I am glad to see options for eliminating that possibility.
A "large bottom watering container" sounds like what you call a swimming pool at a weight loss spa! 😃 Seriously though, nice video! I like that your design allows for the air wicking. Do you think you could skip the weed block fabric all together? Just run a seal around the yellow divider, cap the bottoms of your wicking tubes and drill many smaller holes in the columns instead of 4 large holes? The divider on the Earthbox has pretty big holes and the soil stays put. priced out the components at Home Depot and Wallmart, but could not beat the Earthbox price. It is fun to make it yourself though!
I have not tried it without landscape fabric. I suspect that any seal you make around the divider will break under the weight of the wet potting mix, especially if the container is ever moved. In the end though, having some potting mix drop into the water is probably not a huge issue. I think that the price is not terrible if you are making several, the advantage is that this is a much larger container than an Earthbox. Also, I wonder if you can make a good seal by cutting the divider too large and then heat forming it. You could probably warm the perimeter with a heat gun and press it in place to conform to the box.
The question that comes to my mind is about room for roots in the tub which has a false bottom. It seems there is risk of a tomato or similar plant being root bound.
Thinking about making 6 of these. It's impressive the soil can wick moisture up that high. I'm a bit nervous to try it but I imagine moisture leaving the slits in the top through the evaporative effect might be helping to pull moisture upwards.
My feeling is that moisture doesn't wick that high. This turns out to be fine for all but the tiniest of starts or seeds. As long as moisture gets half way up (typical capillary action height in this type of potting mix is something like 6-10"), it should reach the roots, prompting the plant to develop deeper ones. Starting from seed is another story altogether.
@@akomakomakom I would like to give starting from seed a try. To your point, hand-watering from the top would be necessary until the root system has time to develop.
@@akomakomakom probably because the moisture gradient is being ruined by the hand water, try setting up the system, and letting it wick up 1/3 -1/2 of the water prior too planting, go in with pre-moistened soil so it's not hydrophobic.
Sure. It will probably allow fine particles through, which is not the end of the world. It is usually more expensive than landscape fabric. If you have a bunch laying around, it's a good option.
I'm interested in trying the rope (or strips of cotton material) method for the same reason. I have reservations about vermiculite, which may have asbestos or other carcinogens that can be breathed in.
That sounds like a good idea. Concerns include smell and attracting insects. I should add that those little screens I added clog with potting mix, so I tend to rip them off, leaving an entry path for insects.
@@akomakomakom of top of my head I would layer with couple screens of micro mesh to stop most falling through with cotton or similar material wicks leading to soil but would have a one inch layer of perlite between mesh and soil to also slow falling into Rez, bugs I'd prob just use a watered down compost tea or worm cast tea also plug Rez tube with end cap, it's giving me an idea to play with so thank you
@@akomakomakom That would probably not be an issue if you had placed the drain holes BELOW the soil shelf instead of above them. I agree with the person above, that is not a good idea, the water level needs to be below the soil level so the roots don't get waterlogged.
@@SMCGlassBlowing I still don't know who decided that I placed the drain holes above soil level. I did not. It's also unclear who you are referring to above. However, I always wind up dropping some potting mix around the landscape fabric while putting it together, and then it floats on top of the water and clogs up the drain holes. That is what I was referring to.
Sorry I was lazy and did not reference the comment about placement of drain holes. It's just from watching the video it appears like you locate the holes above the perforated shelf and drilled them at that point from the inside out. If I got that wrong I apologize!
That's right, zip ties. I wound up drilling some extra holes in random places to make it easier to thread zip ties through. 2-3 zip ties per column was sufficient. You can see assembly at 05:27
Thank you for this! I was wondering if there was a way that these could be made using the same wicking tub materials that I have on hand, with the exception of a large tub purchase.
I'd be curious to know if anyone knows what the best wicking material would be if you wanted to avoid the rotting soil submerged in water for months. Has anyone used rope or cotton material with success?
That's an interesting question. Note that the video emphasizes the use of potting mix (not soil). If it helps, I made half my boxes using store-bought potting mix, and the other half using my own potting mix (peat moss + perlite + sand). Both performed the same over the years (no issues) and wicked about the same.
There is a strip of fertilizer placed on top of the soil, just under the plastic. This is a full season's supply of fertilizer that is meant to wick out very slowly to provide gentle and even feeding. If you take off the plastic, rainwater will move that into the soil rapidly, overwhelming the plants and leaving survivors with no fertilization for the rest of the season. If you don't use the plastic covering then this becomes a regular bottom-watering container and it will need regular fertilizer applications instead.
Do you mean weed block, also known as landscape fabric? The plant roots should remain in the soil above. Water is drawn up to the soil above via capillary action. I would not want my plant roots to sit in stilll water, as this is not hydro/aeroponic gardening.
So the thumbnail and the finished product aren't the same, do you have a vid showing how the thumbnail is cut so perfectly? What tool did you use? Did you make the one in the thumbnail? If not can you tell me where you saw it so I can find how how this Thumbnail one was made? Thanks
The image in the video thumbnail is of the same box. I imagine that it looks more precise because it is a small image and you cannot see the imperfections.
The planters are in their third year and are working well. You may want to check the linked instructable, there may have been some additional notes added there. Herbs and vegetables have done extremely well, but because of the height, they perform best after the roots reach deeper down where there is more moisture.
All is well. I have 9 of these now, some are almost 3 years old. I've had to top-off the potting mix a little once a year in some of them. The parsley shown in the video has grown a lot in two months, tripling in size. In my others I have cucumbers, tomotoes, peppers. They grew very well (over 7 feet tall) until a month of rain killed many of them.
@@akomakomakom Ökthanka a lot 4 immediately your answer Im a biker relly from Venezia 🇮🇹and then I have more questions about this opportunity for me becaue the vegetable's is good but now in Italy have new rule and is legally 4 grow plants of weed in one house (Sorry for my English) Best Regards
Between what and what? Bottom of soil and top of water? Do I? Let's assume that it is indeed needed. Even if I place the overflow hole directly at divider height (I did), the water will at most touch the soil for a short while before the water level goes down. Regardless, air exchange is happening via the overflow hole. Did I misunderstand your concern?
@@akomakomakom No, I don't think you misunderstood. I've made 22 self watering wick tubs and I was lead to believe that an airgap is needed between the water level and the soil. At least and inch is cited. To keep roots from rotting. I take it you have no problem with that?
@@FTDrake I did not have root rot issues. I did have tomato wilt, but equally in boxes and directly in the garden. My boxes are not perfectly leveled, so it is possible that the tilt changes the amount of soil area in contact with the water. I believe that it will only matter once roots are long enough to reach the bottom, and at that stage transpiration is quick enough that the water level will drop soon after refilling. Some roots will grow into the wicking tubes and will always sit in water. They don't seem to mind.
I’m getting ready to build a few of these and I’m just wondering about the turbo tomato plastic. Have you had any problems with the roots not getting enough oxygen? I guess they get some oxygen from underneath, just wondering if it’s enough. Great build video. 👍
I've had nothing but vigorous growth, so I'm assuming that there is no problem with oxygen down there. Sorry that I can't be more scientific than that.
It's important not to place the overflow hole too close to the barrier. It should be an inch or more below the barrier to make the roots air prune and not grow into the water reservoir and rot. It's an easy fix. If the hole is too close to the barrier just drill a hole or two at a lower level. You don't want to rot your roots.
… I agree … I’ve been watching videos that date back for years when the earth boxes were just coming into use and that air space was VERY important … through the years as people have modified the self watering boxes that critical feature has become overlooked …
Thank you for taking the time to make the comments. I’m cutting today and your advice directly impacts my success.
@@Chr1s520 Right? The comments are gold.
I wouldn’t the landscape fabric affect the air pruning?
@@banyai420 I'm not sure what your question refers to. Can you be more specific?
Problem I found with a lot of water is that it can go rancid/ anaerobic. I make mine to hold about 2 gallons. My overflow is at the opposite end from my filler tube. When I water, I will keep watering for 5-10 seconds after it starts running out the overflow so you get some exchange going with fresh water/nutrients. Exterior boxes I paint white. In FL, black boxes cooked the roots. Just use a shot glass as a cover for fill tube. The screening will clocg up the air exchange between layers- especially if you have worms in your boxes.
Thank you from Florida
If you can let the reservoir go dry between waterings going anerobic won't be much of an issue.
@@guy6054 Just don't let it go dry for too long or you risk losing the wicking action
@@theBullringLive I don't see how that could happen. The soil would go hydrophobic at worst and when the reservoir is filled again the soil will rehydrate and start wicking. People lose the wicking when they dont pack the corners in and the soil washes out.
@@guy6054 It has something to do with Hydro lift or some such that has to do with how high water can wick up. EB's were designed with that in mind. When we tweakers start making our own that theory gets thrown out. With my 27 gal boxes, I periodically have to top water to keep the soil damp all the way--mainly when fruiting/bloom
I've watched many videos on self watering containers, but you are the first one I've seen screening the water tube and overflow. I live in area with way to many mosquitoes, and my big concern would be creating stagnant water and getting more mosquitoes. Thanks for addressing that for me
Just because I'm paranoid about mosquitoes doesn't mean they aren't out to get me. Here is my favorite mass elimination method (which I have yet to try): www.reddit.com/r/homeowners/comments/b7b6x7/comment/ejqwymt/
If you water properly you won’t have to worry
You can also cap off the pvc
Very helpful. Made one similar with a 17 gallon HDX. Got it all made with starts setting out in the garden. I used wood chips for mulch instead of plastic sheet. Then, last night it started to rain. Got up early with an idea to prevent water logging. Tomato cage in the middle of the container; 55 gallon clear trash bag to cover everything; hold in place with clothes pins around the rim. And it doubles as a mini-greenhouse until it warms up around here in a couple months! May need vent holes.
I was thinking about the same greenhouse idea to keep rain off tomatoes. Let us know how your experiment holds up.
@@akomakomakom 44F today, 70F inside the bag. Greenhouse was 65F. Bug storm came thru today. Wind, rain... it held up fine. Realized today my tote is 12 gal not 17. Bought six 27 gal. and a box of 95 gal trash bags to fit over them.
Thank you for this video. Ive been looking for a covering to keep water out. I never knew about the turbo tomato red mulch sheet. I’m planning on ordering it. Great job on the planter. You knew every detail to make this box. We have 45 earth boxes. Some were purchases new, many were given to me from friends and family, and dozens were purchased from Craig’s list, garage sales etc. They can be pricy at startup but I’ve read where they can last 20 plus years. The man who invented this box lived in Ellenton FL. We’re in Bradenton, FL, one town over from Ellenton. They have a garden center there called The Earth Box Store. We have planted for many many seasons (7 or 8 years) and have had excellent success. Our neighbors love us. LOL. The reason I was so excited about the turbo tomato mulch sheet is because with 45 boxes and at $1.99 a cover that only lasts a season it can get quite pricey. I can make my own covers from this turbo tomato mulch sheet and I can get 4’ 50’ for $19.99. According to the website you can get two years out of the sheets. So thank you very much for that wonderful tip!
There's no need to cover to keep water out, that's what the drainage hole is for.
Exactly the Earth box I want to build with the readily available materials on hand. Thanks.
The drain hole should be at least and an inch below the bottom piece. The one inch air gap is mandatory to prevent root rot.
This is one of the best I've watched on this. Good information. Thank you.
It's always nice to have options. Thanks for posting your video. You don't need the zip ties. The hot-melt glue gun should suffice for attaching the 4-inch supports and hold the weed-block fabric in place.
You're probably right. Hot glue is definitely faster than zip-ties.
At one time I needed to move my boxes, and they bounced around a lot (down steps on a hand truck) while tilted on their sides. Hot glue would have potentially separated, allowing the supports to shift.
With the Earth Box you put a band of fertilizer on the top of the soil before placing the plastic.
FYI….. Tried cutting top with a Milwaukee multi tool, cut out 4 tops in 15 minutes.
Jig saw works the best....30 seconds a top
I will give it a try, Thank you!
add an airstone to one and put it right next to one without and show us the difference and you will be the greatest ever.
I would love to see this, but I wouldn't be surprised at all to see the airstone make a bug difference. If you have the option of using an airstone, do it. It sure makes a big difference in my noncirculating hydroponic buckets.
What is an airstone?
@@gloryb5513 it's what made the dinosaurs die.
@@gloryb5513
Air stone is an air pump for fish tanks.
Awesome job buds! This looks and seems stronger than earth box.
Yours is how all others wished they were.
I'm a 75 year old gal and don't have your arm or wrist strength, so I stayed away from those super strong hard textured lids and went with containers that have smooth easy to cut out lids, cuz that extra step of having to cut off the "bumps" around the edges looked like way too much work! I also, for similar reasons, do not use the hard plastic drain pipes to support the shelf, I don't have a table circular saw, did not want to spend hours of sweat time sawing them by hand (probably crookedly) and I believe strongly in using what you have on hand. What I had on hand was lots of saved 5" high plastic planting pots from years past that I drilled full of holes and inverted under the shelf and they work fine to support it and form the water reservoir! Does not have to be dedicated drain pipes. When I ran out of them I went and bought more at the hardware supply store for $1.39 each. You could probably buy them in bulk online for a lot less but I wanted them immediately to finish a box.
Sounds brilliant, the pots are less work and probably similar cost. I agree, cutting the lids was my least favorite part. My initial plan was to use plastic grids for office fluorescent lights, but I couldn't find affordable sources. I probably should have used a jigsaw to cut the lids.
I tried this with landscape fabric 2 years ago and had to pull fabric out due to soil not draining and plants being water logged. THINK it needed more air at bottom.
I did wonder about this, since I have seen landscape fabric not allow water to freely run through, in fact it mostly runs off it. I wonder if the kind of fine mesh that you put on top of plants as an insect barrier mightn't be a better choice but of course that stuff is kind of pricy. I bet even plastic window screening would work though. Sure maybe the really fine silt particles would leach through but is that so terrible? You are going to clean it out at the end of the season anyway. I did wonder about the mosquito issue so I am glad to see options for eliminating that possibility.
Thank you. Good to know.
👍 Nice job! Appreciate you sharing.
A "large bottom watering container" sounds like what you call a swimming pool at a weight loss spa! 😃 Seriously though, nice video! I like that your design allows for the air wicking. Do you think you could skip the weed block fabric all together? Just run a seal around the yellow divider, cap the bottoms of your wicking tubes and drill many smaller holes in the columns instead of 4 large holes? The divider on the Earthbox has pretty big holes and the soil stays put. priced out the components at Home Depot and Wallmart, but could not beat the Earthbox price. It is fun to make it yourself though!
I have not tried it without landscape fabric. I suspect that any seal you make around the divider will break under the weight of the wet potting mix, especially if the container is ever moved. In the end though, having some potting mix drop into the water is probably not a huge issue. I think that the price is not terrible if you are making several, the advantage is that this is a much larger container than an Earthbox.
Also, I wonder if you can make a good seal by cutting the divider too large and then heat forming it. You could probably warm the perimeter with a heat gun and press it in place to conform to the box.
The question that comes to my mind is about room for roots in the tub which has a false bottom. It seems there is risk of a tomato or similar plant being root bound.
Wow! Thank you! This is the first time I’ve ever seen anyone use the reflective mulch! How was your harvest?
Thinking about making 6 of these. It's impressive the soil can wick moisture up that high. I'm a bit nervous to try it but I imagine moisture leaving the slits in the top through the evaporative effect might be helping to pull moisture upwards.
My feeling is that moisture doesn't wick that high. This turns out to be fine for all but the tiniest of starts or seeds. As long as moisture gets half way up (typical capillary action height in this type of potting mix is something like 6-10"), it should reach the roots, prompting the plant to develop deeper ones. Starting from seed is another story altogether.
@@akomakomakom I would like to give starting from seed a try. To your point, hand-watering from the top would be necessary until the root system has time to develop.
@@akomakomakom probably because the moisture gradient is being ruined by the hand water, try setting up the system, and letting it wick up 1/3 -1/2 of the water prior too planting, go in with pre-moistened soil so it's not hydrophobic.
I’m wondering if you can use the screen instead of the landscape fabric?
Sure. It will probably allow fine particles through, which is not the end of the world. It is usually more expensive than landscape fabric. If you have a bunch laying around, it's a good option.
I used vermiculite to fill the wicking columns of my buckets because I was concerned about the organic matter in my soil sitting in water all season.
I'm interested in trying the rope (or strips of cotton material) method for the same reason. I have reservations about vermiculite, which may have asbestos or other carcinogens that can be breathed in.
Great video thanks
I don't understand the trench of fertilizer vs spreading or mixing it in.
Very good hybrid system, what about a compost tea in water Rez instead might boost the system for heavy feeder plants like toms
That sounds like a good idea. Concerns include smell and attracting insects. I should add that those little screens I added clog with potting mix, so I tend to rip them off, leaving an entry path for insects.
@@akomakomakom of top of my head I would layer with couple screens of micro mesh to stop most falling through with cotton or similar material wicks leading to soil but would have a one inch layer of perlite between mesh and soil to also slow falling into Rez, bugs I'd prob just use a watered down compost tea or worm cast tea also plug Rez tube with end cap, it's giving me an idea to play with so thank you
@@akomakomakom That would probably not be an issue if you had placed the drain holes BELOW the soil shelf instead of above them. I agree with the person above, that is not a good idea, the water level needs to be below the soil level so the roots don't get waterlogged.
@@SMCGlassBlowing I still don't know who decided that I placed the drain holes above soil level. I did not. It's also unclear who you are referring to above. However, I always wind up dropping some potting mix around the landscape fabric while putting it together, and then it floats on top of the water and clogs up the drain holes. That is what I was referring to.
Sorry I was lazy and did not reference the comment about placement of drain holes. It's just from watching the video it appears like you locate the holes above the perforated shelf and drilled them at that point from the inside out. If I got that wrong I apologize!
You forgot to mention how you attaced the pvc to you lid material. Zip ties?
That's right, zip ties. I wound up drilling some extra holes in random places to make it easier to thread zip ties through. 2-3 zip ties per column was sufficient. You can see assembly at 05:27
Thank you for this! I was wondering if there was a way that these could be made using the same wicking tub materials that I have on hand, with the exception of a large tub purchase.
Всем привет✋👋
Отличная идея👍Мне нравится. Обязательно попробую сделать, что-то подобное. Принцип понятен. Посожу супер острый перец. Спасибо за видео.
Перцы и помидоры растут прекрасно, если достаточно солнца. Помидорные рамки я вставляю прямо сквозь красный пластик.
Very helpful! Thanks :)
Is themat plastic safe for planting vegetable plants in? If so that's a great deal.
Really smart.
I'd be curious to know if anyone knows what the best wicking material would be if you wanted to avoid the rotting soil submerged in water for months. Has anyone used rope or cotton material with success?
That's an interesting question. Note that the video emphasizes the use of potting mix (not soil). If it helps, I made half my boxes using store-bought potting mix, and the other half using my own potting mix (peat moss + perlite + sand). Both performed the same over the years (no issues) and wicked about the same.
Curious why you want to keep water out when you have an outflow hole so any excess water can drain.
There is a strip of fertilizer placed on top of the soil, just under the plastic. This is a full season's supply of fertilizer that is meant to wick out very slowly to provide gentle and even feeding. If you take off the plastic, rainwater will move that into the soil rapidly, overwhelming the plants and leaving survivors with no fertilization for the rest of the season. If you don't use the plastic covering then this becomes a regular bottom-watering container and it will need regular fertilizer applications instead.
Very nice thanks, how do you fertilize, with liquid?
See 10:33
Is this container safe? I have several but i can't find the plastic rating.
its a 5
why do you use the blocking? I thought the plant roots seek the water down below? Did I miss something you said?
Do you mean weed block, also known as landscape fabric? The plant roots should remain in the soil above. Water is drawn up to the soil above via capillary action. I would not want my plant roots to sit in stilll water, as this is not hydro/aeroponic gardening.
@@akomakomakom yes, I did mean weed block I thought that thee roots reach down and dangle in the water not wick up. I did not know.
So the thumbnail and the finished product aren't the same, do you have a vid showing how the thumbnail is cut so perfectly? What tool did you use? Did you make the one in the thumbnail? If not can you tell me where you saw it so I can find how how this Thumbnail one was made? Thanks
The image in the video thumbnail is of the same box. I imagine that it looks more precise because it is a small image and you cannot see the imperfections.
@@akomakomakom Ok Thanks! Im going to give it a try 👍
How's the system holding up? Thinking about making one thanks for sharing
The planters are in their third year and are working well. You may want to check the linked instructable, there may have been some additional notes added there. Herbs and vegetables have done extremely well, but because of the height, they perform best after the roots reach deeper down where there is more moisture.
Did u plant the plants rite where ur fertilizer line was?
No, around it. Two rows of plants, one row of fertilizer in the middle.
Why not wet the soil in a bucket before you put it in the container?
For what purpose?
Did the roots breach tru
Ciao and then please you can tell me if your experiment is well? thanks in advance
All is well. I have 9 of these now, some are almost 3 years old. I've had to top-off the potting mix a little once a year in some of them. The parsley shown in the video has grown a lot in two months, tripling in size. In my others I have cucumbers, tomotoes, peppers. They grew very well (over 7 feet tall) until a month of rain killed many of them.
@@akomakomakom Ökthanka a lot 4 immediately your answer
Im a biker relly from Venezia 🇮🇹and then I have more questions about this opportunity for me becaue the vegetable's is good but now in Italy have new rule and is legally 4 grow plants of weed in one house (Sorry for my English)
Best Regards
what type of material did you use ?
What do you mean?
Too complicated. There has to be a better way to achieve the same results.
I'd love to hear more about your ideas!
Saved me from asking my wife for permission to spend tons of money on earth boxes. You are a hero!
Best of luck 👍
Don't you need an air gap?
Between what and what? Bottom of soil and top of water? Do I?
Let's assume that it is indeed needed. Even if I place the overflow hole directly at divider height (I did), the water will at most touch the soil for a short while before the water level goes down. Regardless, air exchange is happening via the overflow hole.
Did I misunderstand your concern?
@@akomakomakom No, I don't think you misunderstood. I've made 22 self watering wick tubs and I was lead to believe that an airgap is needed between the water level and the soil. At least and inch is cited. To keep roots from rotting. I take it you have no problem with that?
@@FTDrake I did not have root rot issues. I did have tomato wilt, but equally in boxes and directly in the garden. My boxes are not perfectly leveled, so it is possible that the tilt changes the amount of soil area in contact with the water.
I believe that it will only matter once roots are long enough to reach the bottom, and at that stage transpiration is quick enough that the water level will drop soon after refilling.
Some roots will grow into the wicking tubes and will always sit in water. They don't seem to mind.
Yes
Bran new to gardening, startered one of these abs added way to much fertilizer. If the tomatoes burn up what should I do?
switch to organics
I’m getting ready to build a few of these and I’m just wondering about the turbo tomato plastic. Have you had any problems with the roots not getting enough oxygen? I guess they get some oxygen from underneath, just wondering if it’s enough. Great build video. 👍
I've had nothing but vigorous growth, so I'm assuming that there is no problem with oxygen down there. Sorry that I can't be more scientific than that.
Looks great but I’d cut the hot glue. Might be toxic
Cheap and stupid are a dangerous combination.