Very good instructional video. Thank you. I should mention that after I loosened those two screws you pointed out, I had to loosen the angle adjustment lever bar before the saw motor would move. After tightening those two screws, and putting the blade back to 0 degrees, and using all of the adjustment in the back with the cam screw, I had just enough adjustment to make the blade square.
For anyone else looking for this fix, I also had to loosen the angle adjustment lever bar to move the saw motor. I found it easier to not have the table on its side to make these adjustments.
You just saved me buying a new saw! I called rigid about this exact issue and didn't have the option to send it in because I somehow did not register my saw but did all my other rigid tools. I've set the rear adjustments and was still way off and causing a safety issue of course due to how off was. My issue was also in the other direction so it was pinching the wood as it went through the back of the saw.
My saw had the riving knife misaligned from day one. I just removed it, and the saw cuts much better without it. It's a construction saw, used for my house build. It's a great saw, I really like it. It's light, accurate, and the fence is pretty good. Cheers from Canada.
Thank you so much! I was having the same problem that adjustment screw for my r4514 wasn’t able to move the heel enough, so moving the front was necessary to get the whole thing parallel. It took me a bit to figure out where to apply force after loosening the front set screws. I ended up just pushing gently on the front of the saw blade itself. I’m sorry you had to jump through the service center hoops for so long, but you helped me avoid the same downtime. I don’t think my wife would’ve let me buy a spare table saw in the mean time :)
Thanks for the very informative vid James! I just spent many hours over the past week trying to get my R4514 aligned and it's been a nightmare! Both my blade and riving knife were crooked and there wasn't enough adjustment. Even after watching your vid, I still couldn't get things even close to square and thought I was going to have to send my saw in for warranty work. I tried again today and figured out my problem. I needed to release the bevel lock, AND I needed to turn my saw on it's right side because the assembly was binding and wouldn't move enough even though there was more room in the slots. Once I turned the saw over, the entire assembly slid into the right spot. On my R4514, the right spot was apparently the max to the right. Then once I got the front screws tightened up, I was able to use the cam in the rear to get the blade pretty close to square. My riving knife is still a bit off but I think I need a shim.
Good info. The truly sad part is a total of nearly 14 weeks without a saw when all they had to do was give you that info the first time you called. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for the information!! I've been having the same issue and finally know how to correct it. When you first look at it you think that you have a range of adjustment in that direction only to find out it is at its max. Great video.
Wow! Thank you thank you thank you! I was going crazy trying to figure it out and also sent the saw in twice with no change. I’m excited to actually have a square blade
I will add my thanks. I have an R4513 and the bolts on the front needed to be in the extreme position available to achieve the needed adjustment....and when I tried to tighten them up they kept moving back to the middle of the slot! I drove a nail into the gap between the bolt and the slot opening to hold the needed position. Tightened both bolts and removed the nail. Now all is well.
I just got the 4514. I actually like yours a little bit more. The 4514 isn't enclosed like yours and I like how the attachments store on the body. The 4514 does have attachment storage, I just like the older model a bit better. As I have a new saw , I still need to check all of the alignments. Your video was helpful in that regard. Thanks.
Been dealing with my saw 1/32 out of heel because the back adjustment wasn't enough. Sorry you had to go through such a nightmare with rigid service. The front adjustment was what I needed for that extra range to get it perfect
Thank you so much. I have a slightly different variant of that table saw and it has been a bugger to try and fix it. Unfortunately mine has been tilted in towards the fence at the back so it’s really having a bad effect on the pieces of wood I’ve been trying to joint.
Glad to see you put the effort into finding the solution for this. Nice video. Thank you. Maybe you can help me solve my problem? Trying to make t-slots in some baltic birch, going over the blade a few times and the blade will not stay at the same height and lowers itself. Thanks in advance.
Very good information! Don’t sweat your video skills you did a great job illustrating the problem, solution and Ridgid’s less than stellar repair centers. I’m taking delivery on a similar saw today a R45171NS that has the same motor/blade mounting design so this will help if the heel is difficult to adjust. Where did you get a phone number for Ridgid repair to actually talk to a tech?
Hi James, great video. I have the same saw, with the same problem. Once you got those 2 set screws loose from under the saw, how did you move the blade? Did you do it from under the top, or did you use something to pry it left/right from above? I loosened my screws but couldn't seem to get my blade housing to move. Thanks again for posting your video.
Bought what I think is the exact same saw. Used it once, and it was so badly out of alignment, I've never used it again. Still have it, and we have now moved to a new home with land so I'm going to need it up and running, so very glad to see your video. I personally think your camera skills are just fine. And, I'd bet your woodworking skills are just fine, too. Thanks, again. new sub. Edited one year later: I've tried several times to adjust this thing, and i'm nothing but disappointed. I'll grant that I'm hardly a Swiss Watch maker, but the $100 Ryobi I used to have (died from extensive use - but it was just the plastic case that died, not the saw mechanism) was ten times better than this saw. NEVER had a problem with "adjustments". Getting ready to Craigslist this POS and buy something better. adn definitely NOT a RIDGID
got the r4514 and noticed the heeling drifted back and forth. I think I weas able to get it square but was concerned about the limits - it wouldn't go over any more. Glad to know there is an additional adjustment for the front of the saw. question: have you looked into or found or made a zero clearance insert? I'm considering making one. My first cut on my new saw sent a small sliver down the insert so I'm missing my old saw's zero clearance.
thanks James I have been looking for that information for several weeks. I just adjusted my craftsman saw similar to yours in this video now its spot on. Other topic, I noticed you had most of the inside cover of the blade to keep the suction for dust collection. Did that cover come with the saw or was it an accessory?
Thanks a lot man, my saw like this needs some serious adjustment. I also have a hard time getting it to cut a true 45 degree angle, you move the carriage to 45 degree and it always says back down a. Couple of degrees
Thanks for sharing this. I spent a few hours trying to align the blade as well and it has been a very frustrating experience. Does anyone knows what type are these screws? I kinda killed the threads on 1 of the screws while trying to remove it and tighten it back and forth and now i need to replace it with a new one. I think its a M5 machine screw but can anyone confirm if you know? Thanks.
Hey so do you mean when u loosen those screws that back adjustment gains more movement?? I loosened them and it seems the same for me. Or are you moving the table top its self? Thanks.
When you loosen them them the weight of the motor pulls it down to one side. I had to lift the front of the motor and then tighten the screws to provide the extra adjustment with the back screws to correct the heeling.
the fence is horrible. I can't get it 100% square to the blade. I need to use a Caliper and slowly tighten the handle while gently tapping the fence to stay around O.
I bought this saw a couple of years ago and love it so much that I’ve just figured out how to not use my table saw…one of my biggest tool purchase regrets was this saw. I need to just sell it and buy a dewalt or something.
Total of 4 months still not fixed or adjusted by the Pros and having to buy a fill in saw. No thanks. Press 1 for Phillipines, 2 for India and 3 for just do it yourself. Carry on.
The R4513 is very smooth and quiet if you use a thin kerf 7.25" blade (Diablo) instead of a thick and heavy 10" blade. As a "job site" saw, most cuts don't require more than 2.125" depth, so why use a more expensive, noisier, harder on the motor and bearings, less universal and far less performance blade, when a much cheaper thin kerf 7.25" blade is much faster cutting. You can always pop on the 10" blade if you need more depth, but once you try a Diablo 7.25" blade on your 10" saw, you will never go back to 10" unless you need it. I am talking about cabinet (on site) finishing cuts too. Not just ripping 2 by lumber much faster. In most cases a quality 7.25" blade will out perform (considerably) a 10" blade. What 10" blade can blast through ripping 2x4s and also make finishing cuts very clean with little to no saw marks or chipping? An expensive 10" shop saw is totally different from a jobsite 10" saw, with much truer bearings, accurate fence, more power......Job site saws really like 7.25" thin kerf blades. If you don't believe me, try it and you won't go back.
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Very good instructional video. Thank you. I should mention that after I loosened those two screws you pointed out, I had to loosen the angle adjustment lever bar before the saw motor would move. After tightening those two screws, and putting the blade back to 0 degrees, and using all of the adjustment in the back with the cam screw, I had just enough adjustment to make the blade square.
For anyone else looking for this fix, I also had to loosen the angle adjustment lever bar to move the saw motor. I found it easier to not have the table on its side to make these
adjustments.
You just saved me buying a new saw! I called rigid about this exact issue and didn't have the option to send it in because I somehow did not register my saw but did all my other rigid tools. I've set the rear adjustments and was still way off and causing a safety issue of course due to how off was. My issue was also in the other direction so it was pinching the wood as it went through the back of the saw.
My saw had the riving knife misaligned from day one. I just removed it, and the saw cuts much better without it. It's a construction saw, used for my house build. It's a great saw, I really like it. It's light, accurate, and the fence is pretty good. Cheers from Canada.
Thanks, I have had the same saw and also get burning on the cuts occasionally, will now check and adjust my heeling, thanks very much
Thank you so much! I was having the same problem that adjustment screw for my r4514 wasn’t able to move the heel enough, so moving the front was necessary to get the whole thing parallel. It took me a bit to figure out where to apply force after loosening the front set screws. I ended up just pushing gently on the front of the saw blade itself.
I’m sorry you had to jump through the service center hoops for so long, but you helped me avoid the same downtime. I don’t think my wife would’ve let me buy a spare table saw in the mean time :)
It worked for my R4514! There was just enough play to move the front of blade so I could get it square. Thank you!
Thanks for the very informative vid James! I just spent many hours over the past week trying to get my R4514 aligned and it's been a nightmare! Both my blade and riving knife were crooked and there wasn't enough adjustment. Even after watching your vid, I still couldn't get things even close to square and thought I was going to have to send my saw in for warranty work. I tried again today and figured out my problem. I needed to release the bevel lock, AND I needed to turn my saw on it's right side because the assembly was binding and wouldn't move enough even though there was more room in the slots. Once I turned the saw over, the entire assembly slid into the right spot. On my R4514, the right spot was apparently the max to the right. Then once I got the front screws tightened up, I was able to use the cam in the rear to get the blade pretty close to square. My riving knife is still a bit off but I think I need a shim.
Thanks for taking your time to share this, what seems like common sense to one who knows seems like great wisdom to one who doesn't.
Good info. The truly sad part is a total of nearly 14 weeks without a saw when all they had to do was give you that info the first time you called. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for the information!! I've been having the same issue and finally know how to correct it. When you first look at it you think that you have a range of adjustment in that direction only to find out it is at its max. Great video.
Thank you for this, I have the same problem with my saw and desperately needed this information!
Thanks for posting this -- something I've always struggled with on my saw. Going to do some tuning per your recommendations.
Wow! Thank you thank you thank you! I was going crazy trying to figure it out and also sent the saw in twice with no change. I’m excited to actually have a square blade
Awesome I’ve been looking for the solution to this, thank you!
Thanks, I'm having this very same issue. I saw those screws at the front, but wasn't ready to tackle it. Awesome
I will add my thanks. I have an R4513 and the bolts on the front needed to be in the extreme position available to achieve the needed adjustment....and when I tried to tighten them up they kept moving back to the middle of the slot! I drove a nail into the gap between the bolt and the slot opening to hold the needed position. Tightened both bolts and removed the nail. Now all is well.
Thanks for your persistence! Ridgid and the rest of the saw manufacturers need to update their fine tuning for the consumers!
Huge help, I had the same exact problem. I’ve been trying to get mine calibrated as well.
Thank you soooo much!! This video was amazing! I’ve been struggling hard with both these adjustments for my blade and fence. Thanks man!!
I just got the 4514. I actually like yours a little bit more. The 4514 isn't enclosed like yours and I like how the attachments store on the body. The 4514 does have attachment storage, I just like the older model a bit better. As I have a new saw , I still need to check all of the alignments. Your video was helpful in that regard. Thanks.
Thanks for the info ... Been struggling with the exact same issue and now I can hopefully dial it in.
Perfect video to solve my problem. Thank you!!!
Great video, I am looking into getting one, actually might get one today. Thank you for sharing this !
Been dealing with my saw 1/32 out of heel because the back adjustment wasn't enough. Sorry you had to go through such a nightmare with rigid service. The front adjustment was what I needed for that extra range to get it perfect
What a time saver. Thank you!!
Thank you so much. I have a slightly different variant of that table saw and it has been a bugger to try and fix it. Unfortunately mine has been tilted in towards the fence at the back so it’s really having a bad effect on the pieces of wood I’ve been trying to joint.
Glad to see you put the effort into finding the solution for this. Nice video. Thank you. Maybe you can help me solve my problem? Trying to make t-slots in some baltic birch, going over the blade a few times and the blade will not stay at the same height and lowers itself. Thanks in advance.
Very good information! Don’t sweat your video skills you did a great job illustrating the problem, solution and Ridgid’s less than stellar repair centers. I’m taking delivery on a similar saw today a R45171NS that has the same motor/blade mounting design so this will help if the heel is difficult to adjust. Where did you get a phone number for Ridgid repair to actually talk to a tech?
Thank you for passing this on!
Great video. Thanks for sharing that. I have the same saw.
Thank you for posting this
Hi James, great video. I have the same saw, with the same problem. Once you got those 2 set screws loose from under the saw, how did you move the blade? Did you do it from under the top, or did you use something to pry it left/right from above? I loosened my screws but couldn't seem to get my blade housing to move. Thanks again for posting your video.
Bought what I think is the exact same saw. Used it once, and it was so badly out of alignment, I've never used it again. Still have it, and we have now moved to a new home with land so I'm going to need it up and running, so very glad to see your video. I personally think your camera skills are just fine. And, I'd bet your woodworking skills are just fine, too. Thanks, again. new sub.
Edited one year later: I've tried several times to adjust this thing, and i'm nothing but disappointed. I'll grant that I'm hardly a Swiss Watch maker, but the $100 Ryobi I used to have (died from extensive use - but it was just the plastic case that died, not the saw mechanism) was ten times better than this saw. NEVER had a problem with "adjustments". Getting ready to Craigslist this POS and buy something better. adn definitely NOT a RIDGID
got the r4514 and noticed the heeling drifted back and forth. I think I weas able to get it square but was concerned about the limits - it wouldn't go over any more. Glad to know there is an additional adjustment for the front of the saw.
question: have you looked into or found or made a zero clearance insert? I'm considering making one. My first cut on my new saw sent a small sliver down the insert so I'm missing my old saw's zero clearance.
That helps a lot!
Great video. Just disappointed in how many alignment issues I’ve had with my Ridgid.
thanks James
I have been looking for that information for several weeks. I just adjusted my craftsman saw similar to yours in this video now its spot on. Other topic, I noticed you had most of the inside cover of the blade to keep the suction for dust collection. Did that cover come with the saw or was it an accessory?
The dust collection shroud/port came with the saw. Works pretty well with my shop vac powered dust collector.
Thanks a lot man, my saw like this needs some serious adjustment. I also have a hard time getting it to cut a true 45 degree angle, you move the carriage to 45 degree and it always says back down a. Couple of degrees
z beshears check out this video to solve that issue. th-cam.com/video/oyeK91hB4mo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for sharing this. I spent a few hours trying to align the blade as well and it has been a very frustrating experience. Does anyone knows what type are these screws? I kinda killed the threads on 1 of the screws while trying to remove it and tighten it back and forth and now i need to replace it with a new one. I think its a M5 machine screw but can anyone confirm if you know? Thanks.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!
Thanks, very helpful.
Hey so do you mean when u loosen those screws that back adjustment gains more movement??
I loosened them and it seems the same for me. Or are you moving the table top its self?
Thanks.
When you loosen them them the weight of the motor pulls it down to one side. I had to lift the front of the motor and then tighten the screws to provide the extra adjustment with the back screws to correct the heeling.
What's the point of not having the saw for 3.5 months total?
Such crappy service!
Thanks, however, for the detailed information. 👍
I bought mine 2 weeks ago . i cant keep the blade. At a true 90% it allways seems to move just enought to notice
the fence is horrible. I can't get it 100% square to the blade. I need to use a Caliper and slowly tighten the handle while gently tapping the fence to stay around O.
I bought this saw a couple of years ago and love it so much that I’ve just figured out how to not use my table saw…one of my biggest tool purchase regrets was this saw. I need to just sell it and buy a dewalt or something.
Boy oh boy it takes you forever to get to the point. However thank you for your the information.
Thats what l am saying, get to the point.
You aren't a "hack" if you care enough about your blade/fence alignment, in my opinion, because you need that to get true cuts.
Total of 4 months still not fixed or adjusted by the Pros and having to buy a fill in saw. No thanks. Press 1 for Phillipines, 2 for India and 3 for just do it yourself. Carry on.
The R4513 is very smooth and quiet if you use a thin kerf 7.25" blade (Diablo) instead of a thick and heavy 10" blade. As a "job site" saw, most cuts don't require more than 2.125" depth, so why use a more expensive, noisier, harder on the motor and bearings, less universal and far less performance blade, when a much cheaper thin kerf 7.25" blade is much faster cutting. You can always pop on the 10" blade if you need more depth, but once you try a Diablo 7.25" blade on your 10" saw, you will never go back to 10" unless you need it. I am talking about cabinet (on site) finishing cuts too. Not just ripping 2 by lumber much faster. In most cases a quality 7.25" blade will out perform (considerably) a 10" blade. What 10" blade can blast through ripping 2x4s and also make finishing cuts very clean with little to no saw marks or chipping? An expensive 10" shop saw is totally different from a jobsite 10" saw, with much truer bearings, accurate fence, more power......Job site saws really like 7.25" thin kerf blades. If you don't believe me, try it and you won't go back.
Still an issue it is a factory defect,, just garbage! brand new saw doing the same thing
P
The information is helpful. But the video is less than 10 minutes long and the first 5 minutes was irrelevant
Does this guy ever shut up? Get to the point