I guess the hardest part for me is composition, but I would combine finding the right location since it is an inherent part of composition in my opinion. And by location, I mean both the general location, but the specific location from where I am shooting.
Editing. I have various patterns and rules of thumb, but I never feel like I really have a solid idea of what I'm doing, or if I could be doing it better if I'd just happened on different tutorials earlier on.
Mark, I forward many of your videos (like this one) to our Photography Club members, and many of them report how useful and enlightening they are. We have about 200 members in our club, we take many field trips and their photography skill improvements over time are truly impressive. Thank you.
Thanks Mark! As you said, “shoot for the crop.” You can crop in but to put it another way it’s crap if you have to go out. (That is not as misspelled word.) The hardest part of photography for me is trying not to get caught so much into the scene and not properly compose.
Shoot to crop - great illustration, demo and explanation, Thanks. Will add it to my shooting checklist. Bonus benefit - I often lose corners if I need to level the horizon, but not if I shoot to crop. Also like discussion on reflections
It's interesting that I don't recall having heard the phrase Shoot to crop before, though I think I may have often done it instinctively. Great content as always. Watching this video reminded me of something that is a bit of a challenge for me. I often shoot with the hopes that I'll find a few photos worthy of printing and potentially framing. I noticed that you crop starting with a common print size ratio (e.g. 4x5), but will also unlock the ratio and custom crop. That makes perfect sense from a composition perspective. What I struggle with when I do a custom crop is when I go to get a print made, I now have something that doesn't fit well within the confines of the more "standard" print sizes. Sure, I could find a lab that will print custom sizes, but that will be significantly more expensive than printing to the standard sizes. I assume this is because the labs have tons of precut sheets, vs having to custom cut something. As a hobbyist, it's sometimes hard to justify the extra cost of finding a lab that will print a custom crop size. If you decide to print a custom crop item, what's your recommended strategy for avoiding the expense of a custom sized print? Would you tend toward printing on a larger sheet leaving white space or potentially cropping further into a standard size. I realize there isn't a one-size fits all take on this. I'm just curious about your thoughts overall.
I was thinking the same thing, it's easy to custom crop if you aren't printing. Once you start bringing the photo into the physical world now we're talking custom print sizes [ the least expensive IMO ] + a custom frame [ the most expensive part ].
In my earlier days, I learned the hard way not to zoom in too much. All too often, I didn't have enough space to make the crop I wanted in post processing. I also worked at making it a habit to take more than one shot (zoom out and zoom in) so that I can avoid having to crop out too much of an image since I use micro 4/3 gear (20 mega pixel sensor). In the same vein, I've learned to follow the recommendation to shoot in both the horizontal and vertical orientation. Thanks for another great video.
My issue with many of my older photos that I want to get printed was not zoom in on the subject and therefore having to crop a large portion of the photo to give attention to the subject therefore when I exported it with a resolution of 250- 300 PPI, I was limited on how big the print could be without losing the quality of the image so I definitely consider this more frequently now.
Do you crop differently if you plan to print, or plan to sell noting that custom framing is costly? Or is it the "correct crop" is worth the custom frame?
Love the video. I'm a big fan of shooting for the crop, which brings me to the hardest part of photography for me. I love everything and as a result, I sometimes put too much in my frame. I can't seem to help myself.
Zooming out a little can also give you room to rotate. I have found that rotating the image to adjust for things not quite being level can really cost you some image real estate.
Great content as always! For image #3 [ Colorado, yellow foliage/red building] I would have left it uncropped. The darker foliage provided a natural frame, and the additional megapixels would allow for larger native print. I liked it as shot which is surprising since I find myself preferring 4x5 aspect ratios over 3x2. Personally I prefer to crop w/ no grid, as I've found grids make me instantly frame based on rule of thirds. I would prefer to frame based solely on what makes the most interesting image and I find that rules of thirds doesn't always equal that. Horses for courses I suppose.
A very interesting concept of photographing for the crop. It makes sense to add just a little bit extra after you have dialed in your scene. I guess a few questions I have is when you are composing your scene, either in-camera or via the viewscreen, how much extra do you initially include? Or, is it a matter of personal taste or what the scene is dictating? Another question is would you consider multiple exposures of various compositions with different croppings and possibly culling out those images later when you edit at home? As always, another great video on a topic that is fairly new to me. I always learn or pick some bit of info. or something new from your videos and I do appreciate it alot.
Hi Mark, when you are "shooting for the crop," do you have in mind the standard paper sizes you will be using for your ultimate print? Also, it looks like in your editing you are not cropping for standard paper sizes but rather for the image. If you wanted to print to a 11 x 14 inch paper, would you take that into consideration when you are editing the image?
Question about your proportions, do you keep “traditional” sizing for ease of framing? Do you ever crop to what the scene dictates, or generally stick to what the frame dictates. I absolutely get it, custom framing is extremely expensive, but there are a couple pictures I am disappointed in when cropping because that is not what that scene is calling for. So when you’re initially getting that shot, are you looking for the 11x14 shot even though your camera is probably taking 11x17?
I have same type of question, do you crop differently if you plan to print, or plan to sell noting that custom framing is costly? Or is it the "correct crop" is worth the custom frame?
✅QUESTION: What's the Hardest part of Photography for you?
I guess the hardest part for me is composition, but I would combine finding the right location since it is an inherent part of composition in my opinion. And by location, I mean both the general location, but the specific location from where I am shooting.
Small waterfalls (10 to 15 foot). When to use a ND filter or a polarizer and the value of each.
@@bkc1965 100%. This is, without question, the hardest part for me. Well articulated.
Editing. I have various patterns and rules of thumb, but I never feel like I really have a solid idea of what I'm doing, or if I could be doing it better if I'd just happened on different tutorials earlier on.
I'm on the same spot, @@drmathochist06
Mark, I forward many of your videos (like this one) to our Photography Club members, and many of them report how useful and enlightening they are. We have about 200 members in our club, we take many field trips and their photography skill improvements over time are truly impressive. Thank you.
Please get this man to 300k already
Thanks Mark! As you said, “shoot for the crop.” You can crop in but to put it another way it’s crap if you have to go out. (That is not as misspelled word.) The hardest part of photography for me is trying not to get caught so much into the scene and not properly compose.
It helps if you’re shooting with a higher res sensor. 24 megapixels vs 45 megapixels…
Shoot to crop - great illustration, demo and explanation, Thanks. Will add it to my shooting checklist. Bonus benefit - I often lose corners if I need to level the horizon, but not if I shoot to crop. Also like discussion on reflections
Glad it was helpful!
It's interesting that I don't recall having heard the phrase Shoot to crop before, though I think I may have often done it instinctively. Great content as always.
Watching this video reminded me of something that is a bit of a challenge for me. I often shoot with the hopes that I'll find a few photos worthy of printing and potentially framing.
I noticed that you crop starting with a common print size ratio (e.g. 4x5), but will also unlock the ratio and custom crop. That makes perfect sense from a composition perspective. What I struggle with when I do a custom crop is when I go to get a print made, I now have something that doesn't fit well within the confines of the more "standard" print sizes. Sure, I could find a lab that will print custom sizes, but that will be significantly more expensive than printing to the standard sizes. I assume this is because the labs have tons of precut sheets, vs having to custom cut something.
As a hobbyist, it's sometimes hard to justify the extra cost of finding a lab that will print a custom crop size. If you decide to print a custom crop item, what's your recommended strategy for avoiding the expense of a custom sized print? Would you tend toward printing on a larger sheet leaving white space or potentially cropping further into a standard size. I realize there isn't a one-size fits all take on this. I'm just curious about your thoughts overall.
I was thinking the same thing, it's easy to custom crop if you aren't printing. Once you start bringing the photo into the physical world now we're talking custom print sizes [ the least expensive IMO ] + a custom frame [ the most expensive part ].
Sorry. Leave room to crop if you plan on printing as you never know what sizes you may end up needing, especially if you sell prints.
Great recommendations. And your photos are just beautiful! Great work.
In my earlier days, I learned the hard way not to zoom in too much. All too often, I didn't have enough space to make the crop I wanted in post processing. I also worked at making it a habit to take more than one shot (zoom out and zoom in) so that I can avoid having to crop out too much of an image since I use micro 4/3 gear (20 mega pixel sensor). In the same vein, I've learned to follow the recommendation to shoot in both the horizontal and vertical orientation. Thanks for another great video.
My issue with many of my older photos that I want to get printed was not zoom in on the subject and therefore having to crop a large portion of the photo to give attention to the subject therefore when I exported it with a resolution of 250- 300 PPI, I was limited on how big the print could be without losing the quality of the image so I definitely consider this more frequently now.
Do you crop differently if you plan to print, or plan to sell noting that custom framing is costly? Or is it the "correct crop" is worth the custom frame?
Love the video. I'm a big fan of shooting for the crop, which brings me to the hardest part of photography for me. I love everything and as a result, I sometimes put too much in my frame. I can't seem to help myself.
Hardest part - the temptation to over adjust the colors for sunsets
Great video Mark! Great tip.
Loved the tip, will start applying it when I get back out into the field.
Zooming out a little can also give you room to rotate. I have found that rotating the image to adjust for things not quite being level can really cost you some image real estate.
Fantastic tip 👏👏👏
Thank you!
All great questions regarding cropping ratio and print requirements...seems we need some guidance on setting up the crop & print relationship
Great content as always! For image #3 [ Colorado, yellow foliage/red building] I would have left it uncropped. The darker foliage provided a natural frame, and the additional megapixels would allow for larger native print. I liked it as shot which is surprising since I find myself preferring 4x5 aspect ratios over 3x2. Personally I prefer to crop w/ no grid, as I've found grids make me instantly frame based on rule of thirds. I would prefer to frame based solely on what makes the most interesting image and I find that rules of thirds doesn't always equal that. Horses for courses I suppose.
Great video, thanks 👍 Looking forward to see Lightroom Colors Course, but till up now no response for weeks.
A very interesting concept of photographing for the crop. It makes sense to add just a little bit extra after you have dialed in your scene. I guess a few questions I have is when you are composing your scene, either in-camera or via the viewscreen, how much extra do you initially include? Or, is it a matter of personal taste or what the scene is dictating? Another question is would you consider multiple exposures of various compositions with different croppings and possibly culling out those images later when you edit at home? As always, another great video on a topic that is fairly new to me. I always learn or pick some bit of info. or something new from your videos and I do appreciate it alot.
Hi Mark, when you are "shooting for the crop," do you have in mind the standard paper sizes you will be using for your ultimate print? Also, it looks like in your editing you are not cropping for standard paper sizes but rather for the image. If you wanted to print to a 11 x 14 inch paper, would you take that into consideration when you are editing the image?
Do you break the aspect ratio, and do you crop into non-standard dimensions?
Now after explanation it’s easy 😉
Question about your proportions, do you keep “traditional” sizing for ease of framing? Do you ever crop to what the scene dictates, or generally stick to what the frame dictates.
I absolutely get it, custom framing is extremely expensive, but there are a couple pictures I am disappointed in when cropping because that is not what that scene is calling for. So when you’re initially getting that shot, are you looking for the 11x14 shot even though your camera is probably taking 11x17?
I have same type of question, do you crop differently if you plan to print, or plan to sell noting that custom framing is costly? Or is it the "correct crop" is worth the custom frame?
i like how he always says "" another great example". which one is great?
Yeah
Can someone explain why take a photo when you can take a video instead?