You’re a genius Brian . That was our biggest problem , we lost so much ground when I would head home for the day and I would spend the entire next day trying to get the temp back up . That added heater is just the ticket . I’m sure I’m not the only one out there trying to learn the best way to do this . Thanks for putting in the time and short nights of sleep to figure this out and bring it to us .
Thanks for subscribing it's a fun project for sure. I haven't given it a real test of wet wood yet but that's coming soon. It will be a work in progress for a while I'm guessing
Lot's of data collected. With lots of learning, thank you for sharing. The 140 degrees is the level to achieve certification? The Two fuel sources produced results for sure.
yes In Wisconsin the requirement is 140 or above for 60 minutes. I think I am on to something good. I already want to build a new version of it from what I've learned so far. just not enough time in the day for everything. thanks for watching
@@shotlifffamilyfirewood Okay, I got it! Thanks Brian. I'm gathering materials to build a Solar-Kiln on wheels, I'm not sure I need two heat sources, my goal is to dry firewood in five weeks without adding energy costs. i.e. wood, kerosene, electric, body movement. Your thoughts??
I actually was going to do that originally and kinda forgot about it. Thanks for the reminder. I'll pick one up and install next chance I get. Thanks for watching and commenting
I think a key is figuring out where the most humidity is. and having the air return in that area, to maximize the amount of moisture that can be eliminated by the stove. 0.01c
That’s a awesome concept. The only problem I see is the wood may be in some fashion infused with the smell of whatever fuel it is that you’re using in the salamander heater.
I was wondering that too but once I got the wood out I didn't notice a smell. maybe after a longer cycle its still possible. I thought propane would be cleaner burning but I don't have a propane heater to try. thanks for watching John
@shotlifffamilyfirewood I've been around those heaters when ran on no2 oil or diesel, definitely more oder. . But compared to a hardware store selling kerosene for near $10 pet gal. Way, way, lower cost. Very few places sell no1 oil bulk at a pump, almost always sold in a sealed container, thus the silly price. . It's entended to be used in those emergency wick heaters, and if the fuel stays sealed up, you know it's good for many years.
I'm fortunate here there is a station with kerosene on tap. I haven't actually bought there yet but it's a ton cheaper then the store once I burn through what I have anyway
@@shotlifffamilyfirewood If the kerosene heater is adjusted right,there shouldn't be any smell at all. Under startup from cold it can smell,not when it's hot . nice setup. peace from Denmark
It appears that you are using common HVAC ducting? FYI: At a typical wood burning stove ( 400 - 600 + F, temperatures ) the galvanized coating ( toxic ) will off gas.
No idea why this appeared in my feed, but I'm watching it! Greetings from Australia.
I truly appreciate that you watched. You're the first person from Australia to comment. Pretty cool that it made it that far from Wisconsin.
You’re a genius Brian . That was our biggest problem , we lost so much ground when I would head home for the day and I would spend the entire next day trying to get the temp back up . That added heater is just the ticket . I’m sure I’m not the only one out there trying to learn the best way to do this . Thanks for putting in the time and short nights of sleep to figure this out and bring it to us .
Thank you but I'm far from a genius. It has been a fun project but I'm also lucky to have the time to put in to it. Thanks for watching Phil!
That’s awesome man!
Thank you! Thanks for watching
Hi Brian! New sub here. That is pretty neat. Looks like you're getting things figured out! - Tim
Thanks for subscribing it's a fun project for sure. I haven't given it a real test of wet wood yet but that's coming soon. It will be a work in progress for a while I'm guessing
Great idea Brian! A guy needs his sleep!!😂👍👍
you can probably tell that by how the video is put together lol. it makes for a long weekend when I run the kiln so far. hopefully its better now
Lot's of data collected. With lots of learning, thank you for sharing. The 140 degrees is the level to achieve certification? The Two fuel sources produced results for sure.
yes In Wisconsin the requirement is 140 or above for 60 minutes. I think I am on to something good. I already want to build a new version of it from what I've learned so far. just not enough time in the day for everything. thanks for watching
@@shotlifffamilyfirewood Okay, I got it! Thanks Brian. I'm gathering materials to build a Solar-Kiln on wheels, I'm not sure I need two heat sources, my goal is to dry firewood in five weeks without adding energy costs. i.e. wood, kerosene, electric, body movement. Your thoughts??
Put a damper in the exhaust pipe save some of the 50 percent that's going up the chimney
I actually was going to do that originally and kinda forgot about it. Thanks for the reminder. I'll pick one up and install next chance I get. Thanks for watching and commenting
I think a key is figuring out where the most humidity is.
and having the air return in that area, to maximize the amount of moisture that can be eliminated by the stove.
0.01c
That's a great thought I'll have to think about that.
That’s a awesome concept. The only problem I see is the wood may be in some fashion infused with the smell of whatever fuel it is that you’re using in the salamander heater.
I was wondering that too but once I got the wood out I didn't notice a smell. maybe after a longer cycle its still possible. I thought propane would be cleaner burning but I don't have a propane heater to try. thanks for watching John
@shotlifffamilyfirewood
I've been around those heaters when ran on no2 oil or diesel, definitely more oder.
.
But compared to a hardware store selling kerosene for near $10 pet gal.
Way, way, lower cost.
Very few places sell no1 oil bulk at a pump, almost always sold in a sealed container, thus the silly price.
.
It's entended to be used in those emergency wick heaters, and if the fuel stays sealed up, you know it's good for many years.
I'm fortunate here there is a station with kerosene on tap. I haven't actually bought there yet but it's a ton cheaper then the store once I burn through what I have anyway
@@shotlifffamilyfirewood If the kerosene heater is adjusted right,there shouldn't be any smell at all. Under startup from cold it can smell,not when it's hot . nice setup. peace from Denmark
It appears that you are using common HVAC ducting? FYI: At a typical wood burning stove ( 400 - 600 + F, temperatures ) the galvanized coating ( toxic ) will off gas.
Can you configure your wood furnace to run on waste oil? Just a thought but once adjusted you could walk away and let it run.
That might be an excellent idea. I haven't even thought about that. I will have to look into it. Thanks for the idea!
That will add water inside your kiln.
It will?
@@shotlifffamilyfirewood Any time you burn any type of fuel that's vent less will create humidity.
@@shotlifffamilyfirewood Yes