I have started a new sign business just recently with my love of all things wood, wood-burning & saw-dust! :) Unfortunately, I have not been able to move into the CNC zone yet. Maybe someday when I start making good money I'll get to play with the big kids. All my signs are hand wood-burned, hand-painted and I'm just starting to make some decent $. This video was very helpful and you have a very easy-to-follow style! I was curious about the spray epoxy. How do you feel that goes on as opposed to a paint-on epoxy. Sure seems easier, but does it dry smoothly? This could save me loads of time. Thanks again for sharing your work! -Shannon
I'm pretty new to this but I have found a few things that might speed this process up for yourself and others. Use a downcut bit instead of the upcut bit in the CNC, very minimal clean up. Put oramask down on the wood first before carving, the mask will stay on and then use a water based paint for the cut out areas and peel the mask off, cuts down on the need to sand!! Great job though!
My father was a carpenter but never had the patience to teach us. Well now as a 42 year old women.. I want to learn how to build. I find it so satisfying to create with wood. It's amazing what can be made by your hands
Thanks for talking about pricing at the end of the video. So many people shy away from that. Each region could support different prices, but it’s always good to know what others are doing. Good job. Thanks!
Skip the last planer before the cnc and go deeper with the bit, paint the plain. If you don't want splintering from the bit, get a down cut spiral bit.
Pine boards tend to bleed so the first things I do is coat it in sanding sealer. Then instead of paint I use flat black primer. Paint will ruin sanding discs quick and since your going to put a gloss top coat on anyway no one will ever know it's a flat primer.
Great video! Just one tidbit to share that I learned recently. It's a good idea to seal all sides on a wooden sign. If you don't also seal the edges and back, over time, it may absorb moisture from the air unevenly and warp or crack.
Recently started a woodworking venture. Started of kind of all over the place, not really having a niche. Everything I make is from repurpusosed wood (pallets, barnwood). Tables, benches, hope chests, flags and other home decor things. Have started to hone in on flags, blue line, red line, military, American, burning. Went to my first craft fair around Christmas time and was a little disappointed (had to carry out alot of what I brought in). But was still a good learning experience. The wife got me a laser engraver for Christmas and have been toying around with that. Would like to get a cnc next. Have yet to really start to get into the selling platforms yet but that will be the next step. Great videos, thanks for your time!! Really like you home coordinates signs. May have to come up with something similar.
Thanks for sharing and keep at it with the fairs! See if there are any gift shop stores near you and ask them what items sell the most, then try to make similar stuff. The laser is super fun, good luck!
I grew up vacationing with my family in Lake Winnipesaukee near Meredith. Beautiful place. You have a great tourist spot to make and sell these signs ion various shops. People expect to see hand craft items and are more prone to purchase them. I wish your video provided how many labor hours were put to making the sign as well as how long it took the CNC to cut the sign. Woodworkers like myself like to hear this information to compare it to their skills and labor time. I'm a perfectionist and spend way too much time on each project ensuring there are no blemishes, which for wood is nearly impossible. Great video!
A few things you can try to help your process that I have used for years. First off select you bits better, if at all possible use a sharp down cut with proper feeds and speeds and I always run my files twice which helps clean up the fuzzy's. Get some Oramask put on the board first then carve. Once that is done prior to peeling off the Oramask spray the design with Flat Black paint (it dries way faster than gloss) once paint is dry peel off Oramask spray with Lacquer (again dries very fast and does not require sanding between coats), then if you have any little rough spots smooth with steel wool.
To prevent seeping paint, I test out Oramask 813, its like a vinyl film and the CNC bits will cut through it and then you can paint without additional taping, and once dry remove the film. Works well so far.
Great Video! I do this kind of work on the side as well. I have a couple tips that have helped me along the way. Downcut bits on soft wood help tremendously on the fuzz. You can also you scotch Brite to clean them up as well, if you do it lightly, this does very little damage to the wood. If I carve out a large area, I usually go over it with 220 grit sand paper to remove the cut lines. This gives it a much cleaner look. Keep up the videos! Its refreshing to see someone who doesn't have industrial quality tools making some money woodworking.
Thank you for the tips! I definitely need to get a downcut bit as that's been a frequent recommendation. I appreciate the support and thanks for watching!
Just an idea, paint with acrylic paint and sand off. Don’t have to tape off all those areas. Or even easier, apply lacquer or poly prior to engraving. Then engrave and paint letters with acrylic paint. Then wipe paint right off the top leaving only in letters cause of slick finish.
You can save a lot of sanding time using a down-cut spiral bit (and going deeper in the material) and sticking Oramask or Oracal 631 before the machining. You only have to paint and remove the vinyl
I switched to a down cut end mill for pocketing like this, and it eliminated most of those fuzzies. Much easier cleanup and sanding. Thanks for the vid.
Good job on the video. Good information. Great looking sign. I am a newbie myself, but couple things that help me with the cut an paint process is using oramask 813. Put it on, cut, paint, peel it off, you are done. No sanding of paint. Also, downcut bit saves a lot of time sanding for projects like that. Thank you and will watch for more.
Thank you! And thanks for the recommendation on Oramask - I've seen people use these but never knew what that was they were putting on top, now I do! Definitely need a downcut bit as wel. Thanks for watching!
I just want to say thank you for making such a wonderful video. You really make it easy to understand. You have great energy and communication skills. I wish you well and I look forward to learning more! I watched your new video that you did after this one and respect your openness and humility! Great job. I will share this with everyone I know that this will help. Happy New Year!
I like it, good job. When sand carving, we use a mask to protect the substrate. Seems to me it would be easier to apply before routing, so you wouldn't have to sand off the bleed or overspray. Might help with the tear out splintering as well. Just a thought...
After you apply the shellac and spray paint-use mineral spirits and the paint will wipe right off...saves a lot of work. Mineral spirits cut paint, but not the shellac.
Instead of shellac...try a can of Sand Sealer-I Believe the same company makes that shellac and the sand sealer. That’s what I’ve switched to and there is no more bleed thru. Good luck! Hopefully it works as good for you as it does for me
Great video! Something I heard recently - try using packing/shipping tape vs. painters tape on your calls. Will come off much easier as glue won't stick to it.
Framing lumber is never dry enough. 12-14% as opposed to 6-8% which is where moisture content needs to be for repetitive successful glue ups. This board will not stay flat for the long haul..
Spray the shellac after you tape it. The shellac will "seal" against the tape and when the black goes over it, it won't bleed. Same principal when taping walls, base coat, tape down, base coast over tape again, then color. Never have a bleed through again.
Thanks for the videos. Informative and helpful. The construction guy in me says one should remove the tie strings and maybe even the loose hood around all the rotating equipment. 🙃
I wonder if you could just Cnc the sign with masking tape on and then spray paint. That way the cnc would cut the image and masking tape out and leave tape everywhere you don’t want spray paint
Great Video. I have the same x-carve and doing the same thing. But I have to review my prices because I cover some signs with epoxy and people don’t realize your time and material are part of price.
Ever tried using contact paper to mask areas? If i'm doing a sign with a colored base I paint base color then lightly sand to get a smooth surface for contact paper to stick to, also if using wood where stain and varnish are used then do the stain and varnish before machining then sand and apply contact paper,machine pattern then paint over paper after paint, remove paper makes for nice crisp lines, very helpful when using multiple colors, I use a contact paper called Oracal it sticks well ,I use a laminate roller to make sure it sticks and to get out air bubbles. If you are going to try this make sure you get the matt finish removable contact paper, if you get the gloss permanent contact paper it's a bi#$h to remove.
Brah, I love this channel. I can’t get enough hehehe. Do you have a vid on how you built your table saw sled? I’m needing to build one and it seems intimidating lol
Yes, I believe I did and forgot to add it to the video. It helps get all those little pieces as well. A lot of people here have also mentioned using a downcut spiral bit to help reduce the splintering.
Great video, nicely done. Curious what router bit are you using for your cuts? Also a couple ideas, Oramask or simple shelf liner paper makes cleanup easy. Just peel it and stick it on before you start cutting. Very little sanding which is nice. Also I started using regular paint with a brush. It seems to be thicker and wont bleed into the grain of the wood. How many signs can you end up selling in a typical month?
Thank you! I used a spiral upcut bit on this project I believe. Many people here recommended a down cut bit and the oramask as well. I still need to try that out! I've slowed down my production on signs at the moment, but the ones I did make, would typically sell fairly quickly. My focus is more on content creation here on TH-cam, rather than making pieces to sell. I still do it from time to time, though.
Thanks! At the time, I only had two bits on hand, either a flute style one or a spiral upcut. I believe the flute is designed for less tear out, but the bottom of the cutout won't be as smooth as an upcut one. I definitely need to acquire some new bits though, thanks for the recommendation!
Nice job BUT why didn't you go through the CAD & Toolpath process as well?? There is VERY little on youtube for this process and would make for a great couple of vids!!
I was wondering more about the finish process. Was it just one pass of the torch, one sanding, and then the coats of poly? What sanding block did you use? Thanks, great vid
Yeah exactly that. My torch actually died on that last pass through in the video so what you saw is the only torching I did. I really like these sanding sponges from Lowe's, I think 3M makes them, I always have a 120 and 220 on hand.
Hi Michael - Thanks for watching! The software I use for my CNC allows the ability to render a preview of what it will look like after its been carved out. I sent a picture of that via email to the client for approval. Hope that helps!
Mask your workpiece before engraving. After the engraving is when you should paint. Allow to dry, then remove masking! Works like a charm, and far less sanding 😎
Did that board warp on you? Seemed flat all the way up until some of the post burn shots but I’d find it pretty hard to believe that such a light burn would warp out like that so I’m hoping it’s just a trick of the lens because I really don’t want to have to drill dowels or cut biscuits for something this simple
It did warp a little afterwards. I think it's because the pieces were pretty thin and I didn't alternative grain direction. Also, I should have milled the material, waited a day or so to see if there was any changes before gluing things up.
It may be the torching. It’s called sho sugi, a Japanese finishing technique, to torch the board. As you torch one side, it causes the board to cup. Solution is to do a quick similar torch on the back side and it will mostly go way. I’ve done several of these and that is the cause/fix I have used
quick ? I noticed that after the CNC was done cutting everything out there were a lot of wooden fringes. Do you find that this happens often and what do you usually do to get rid of them. Do you just sand the entire board down or maybe run through the planer? I'm confused with what I saw and how you handled it as you didn't mention it.
@@CasualBuilds I have 2 80w machines and one 50w machine. They are all 3 non branded Chinese lasers. I went that rout because I can upgrade and fix them myself. Saved THOUSANDS
I'm not sure to be honest. I'd think the paint would gum up the planer knives, but I'm not sure. I didn't want to try here because the board was already way too thin and I didn't want to remove any more thickness if I could help it.
How do you like your X-Carve? Is there a different CNC you would recommend instead? I'm trying to buy my first CNC, and I'm having a hard time finding a better one for the price.
I love my X-Carve! I don't have experience with any other CNCs so I couldn't recommend one over another. I went with the X-Carve because it seemed like the most beginner friendly option for an affordable price.
Do also make and sell woodworking products? Let me know down below 👇👇
What CNC machine are you using?
I've got the X-Carve from Inventables.
I have started a new sign business just recently with my love of all things wood, wood-burning & saw-dust! :) Unfortunately, I have not been able to move into the CNC zone yet. Maybe someday when I start making good money I'll get to play with the big kids. All my signs are hand wood-burned, hand-painted and I'm just starting to make some decent $. This video was very helpful and you have a very easy-to-follow style! I was curious about the spray epoxy. How do you feel that goes on as opposed to a paint-on epoxy. Sure seems easier, but does it dry smoothly? This could save me loads of time. Thanks again for sharing your work! -Shannon
Definitely planning to as I LOVE wood carving and working! I've also started block printing, have you ever tried that?
I'm pretty new to this but I have found a few things that might speed this process up for yourself and others. Use a downcut bit instead of the upcut bit in the CNC, very minimal clean up. Put oramask down on the wood first before carving, the mask will stay on and then use a water based paint for the cut out areas and peel the mask off, cuts down on the need to sand!! Great job though!
My father was a carpenter but never had the patience to teach us. Well now as a 42 year old women.. I want to learn how to build. I find it so satisfying to create with wood. It's amazing what can be made by your hands
It's very satisfying! My father probably would have loved if I showed an interested in woodworking growing up - never did then. Wish I did now!
Thanks for talking about pricing at the end of the video. So many people shy away from that. Each region could support different prices, but it’s always good to know what others are doing. Good job. Thanks!
Of course! I wanted to be transparent with that information.
Skip the last planer before the cnc and go deeper with the bit, paint the plain.
If you don't want splintering from the bit, get a down cut spiral bit.
Thanks Michael!
So run through the planer after painting??
@@wesmac68 If you're doing just a color fill, engrave about 1/16 deeper. Then yes, run the boar through the thickness planer.
Pine boards tend to bleed so the first things I do is coat it in sanding sealer. Then instead of paint I use flat black primer. Paint will ruin sanding discs quick and since your going to put a gloss top coat on anyway no one will ever know it's a flat primer.
Oh, never thought about using primer instead - thanks for the tip!
i just dont use pine. red cedar or redwood. flat black then a hand planer then the sander
Great video! Just one tidbit to share that I learned recently. It's a good idea to seal all sides on a wooden sign. If you don't also seal the edges and back, over time, it may absorb moisture from the air unevenly and warp or crack.
Great tip, thanks!
Recently started a woodworking venture. Started of kind of all over the place, not really having a niche. Everything I make is from repurpusosed wood (pallets, barnwood). Tables, benches, hope chests, flags and other home decor things. Have started to hone in on flags, blue line, red line, military, American, burning. Went to my first craft fair around Christmas time and was a little disappointed (had to carry out alot of what I brought in). But was still a good learning experience. The wife got me a laser engraver for Christmas and have been toying around with that. Would like to get a cnc next. Have yet to really start to get into the selling platforms yet but that will be the next step.
Great videos, thanks for your time!! Really like you home coordinates signs. May have to come up with something similar.
Thanks for sharing and keep at it with the fairs! See if there are any gift shop stores near you and ask them what items sell the most, then try to make similar stuff. The laser is super fun, good luck!
You can use sanding sealer prior to painting to prevent the paint from bleeding.
Good to know, thank you!
Isnt shellac itself a sanding sealer?
@@tpguitars yes it is
What I’ve use is a air brush for painting text a small detail
Oh never thought of an air brush, might have to pick one up! Thanks!
No problem
I grew up vacationing with my family in Lake Winnipesaukee near Meredith. Beautiful place. You have a great tourist spot to make and sell these signs ion various shops. People expect to see hand craft items and are more prone to purchase them. I wish your video provided how many labor hours were put to making the sign as well as how long it took the CNC to cut the sign. Woodworkers like myself like to hear this information to compare it to their skills and labor time. I'm a perfectionist and spend way too much time on each project ensuring there are no blemishes, which for wood is nearly impossible. Great video!
Lake Winni is awesome and I love going up there too. Great suggestion for some future videos, thank you!
A few things you can try to help your process that I have used for years. First off select you bits better, if at all possible use a sharp down cut with proper feeds and speeds and I always run my files twice which helps clean up the fuzzy's. Get some Oramask put on the board first then carve. Once that is done prior to peeling off the Oramask spray the design with Flat Black paint (it dries way faster than gloss) once paint is dry peel off Oramask spray with Lacquer (again dries very fast and does not require sanding between coats), then if you have any little rough spots smooth with steel wool.
Thank you, super helpful feedback! I do need to get some additional bits and the Oramask - seems like the best process for this.
totally agree on the oramask (813) need to clear coat both sides equal number of times or it'll warp. I've got over a decade into cnc sign making
Good to know, I did get a little warping with this piece too. Thanks!
@jim brown when you run your carve the second time can you speed it up since you're not really removing much material?
Thanks! Really appreciate that you take us step by step through your process.
To prevent seeping paint, I test out Oramask 813, its like a vinyl film and the CNC bits will cut through it and then you can paint without additional taping, and once dry remove the film. Works well so far.
Awesome thanks! I definitely need to pick some of that up.
@@CasualBuilds Amazon has it for a good price!
Thanks!
Hi mate how do you stop the oramask from lifting? I cannot get a clean cut
Great Video! I do this kind of work on the side as well. I have a couple tips that have helped me along the way. Downcut bits on soft wood help tremendously on the fuzz. You can also you scotch Brite to clean them up as well, if you do it lightly, this does very little damage to the wood. If I carve out a large area, I usually go over it with 220 grit sand paper to remove the cut lines. This gives it a much cleaner look. Keep up the videos! Its refreshing to see someone who doesn't have industrial quality tools making some money woodworking.
Thank you for the tips! I definitely need to get a downcut bit as that's been a frequent recommendation. I appreciate the support and thanks for watching!
Just an idea, paint with acrylic paint and sand off. Don’t have to tape off all those areas. Or even easier, apply lacquer or poly prior to engraving. Then engrave and paint letters with acrylic paint. Then wipe paint right off the top leaving only in letters cause of slick finish.
I bought a CNC to learn, and I am happy that I did!
It's a great tool!
Really great video and great sign. Thanks for sharing this.
You can save a lot of sanding time using a down-cut spiral bit (and going deeper in the material) and sticking Oramask or Oracal 631 before the machining. You only have to paint and remove the vinyl
Great tips, thank you!!
How do you stop the oramask from lifting and get a clean cut?
That’s awesome. One thing that I’ve started to use is vinyl. It’s fairly cheap and easy to use.
Ooh, thanks for the recommendation. I've haven't personally used vinyl yet, but will definitely add it to the list of new things to try out!
I switched to a down cut end mill for pocketing like this, and it eliminated most of those fuzzies. Much easier cleanup and sanding. Thanks for the vid.
Thanks for the tip! I'll be sure to grab one of those for future signs!
Good job on the video. Good information. Great looking sign. I am a newbie myself, but couple things that help me with the cut an paint process is using oramask 813. Put it on, cut, paint, peel it off, you are done. No sanding of paint. Also, downcut bit saves a lot of time sanding for projects like that. Thank you and will watch for more.
Thank you! And thanks for the recommendation on Oramask - I've seen people use these but never knew what that was they were putting on top, now I do! Definitely need a downcut bit as wel. Thanks for watching!
Hi mate, how do you stop the oramask from lifting? I have tired a couple times and cannot get in a clean cut always pushes up a little
@atl4476 put a coat of shellac down and let dry before putting it on.
I just want to say thank you for making such a wonderful video. You really make it easy to understand. You have great energy and communication skills. I wish you well and I look forward to learning more! I watched your new video that you did after this one and respect your openness and humility! Great job. I will share this with everyone I know that this will help. Happy New Year!
Quick tip when using black. Buy Marsh spray ink off Amazon. Dries in minutes and a lot less bleed thru.
Ooh thanks!
great job, I will be following you for sure.
Nice work. And it looks good. My plan is to also do that type of thing so
I like it, good job. When sand carving, we use a mask to protect the substrate. Seems to me it would be easier to apply before routing, so you wouldn't have to sand off the bleed or overspray. Might help with the tear out splintering as well. Just a thought...
Thanks! Definitely going to try that method next time.
Great video and work
Thanks for the video. Thorough video. Like the shellac use.
Thanks!
After you apply the shellac and spray paint-use mineral spirits and the paint will wipe right off...saves a lot of work. Mineral spirits cut paint, but not the shellac.
Oooh, good call! I'll have to try that next time - thanks for the tip!
It works wonders. You still need to sand some, but most the over spray comes right off! Good luck. Great vids!
Yea, even with just the shellac, there was still some paint that bled into the pine - Thanks again Kyle!
Instead of shellac...try a can of Sand Sealer-I Believe the same company makes that shellac and the sand sealer. That’s what I’ve switched to and there is no more bleed thru. Good luck! Hopefully it works as good for you as it does for me
@@WIkosin1 I'll check it out!
Your process is pretty much spot on. I sell 250+ signs every month on etsy....keeps me busy. I v- carve everything though.
Oh nice! I've got a v-bit as well, just need to spend some time on designing with that in mind.
Good looking out amigo!
👍🏼
First time here and I love the work. I'm a relief woodcarver trying to get started. Thanks and beautiful work
Thank you and good luck!
Great video! Something I heard recently - try using packing/shipping tape vs. painters tape on your calls. Will come off much easier as glue won't stick to it.
Excellent idea - I was hoping I could fast forward through that part and no one would notice the struggle I had prying then off of the panel 😂
Framing lumber is never dry enough. 12-14% as opposed to 6-8% which is where moisture content needs to be for repetitive successful glue ups. This board will not stay flat for the long haul..
Yep, this started to warp a little towards the end.
I use the same painting process but use a Stanley no. 5 plane to shave off 90% of the paint, saves sand paper
Ooh, good call! I've been meaning to pick one those up.
Spray the shellac after you tape it. The shellac will "seal" against the tape and when the black goes over it, it won't bleed. Same principal when taping walls, base coat, tape down, base coast over tape again, then color. Never have a bleed through again.
Awesome, I'll have to try that out - thanks!
Thanks for the videos. Informative and helpful. The construction guy in me says one should remove the tie strings and maybe even the loose hood around all the rotating equipment. 🙃
What does the casual, over cautious, woodworker in you say?
Thanks for sharing brother. You should do voice overs-good speaking voice.
Thanks man!
Thanks for sharing the process of your work, how deep did you engrave the design using the CNC, please?
Awesome video thank you so much
You did an amazing job.
Thank you!
Hi. I found your channel last night. Great editing and filming. I subscribed. Bob
Thanks Bob!
Hi
Thank you , I was wondering how big a c n c I would need to start a sign business, to start
I wonder if you could just Cnc the sign with masking tape on and then spray paint. That way the cnc would cut the image and masking tape out and leave tape everywhere you don’t want spray paint
Yea, a few people mentioned that as well. Someone mentioned using Oracal vinyl sheets too. I may give that a try next time.
@@CasualBuilds go for Oramask 813. With a sharp V bit or downcut, it saves soo much time...
Great Video. I have the same x-carve and doing the same thing. But I have to review my prices because I cover some signs with epoxy and people don’t realize your time and material are part of price.
Thanks! Yea, that's the tricky part.
I use to live in NH great state..
It sure is!
Casual Builds you live there too?
No, but my family lives around Lake Winni, I'm down here in Mass.
You had me at "new tools.."
Haha! We all love new tools!
Thanks for the shellac tip... I'm going to try it out. Subscribed
Hope it works for ya, thanks!
Just getting started. Loved the video! Very helpful.
Awesome, thanks! Glad you liked the vid!
thanks for the tips and showing how you make
Very Nice
Awesome bro!
Thanks, Shane!
Very good !¡!!! By from Italy Marco
I have a place in NH and I go to that area often. Weirs Beach. I think I have seen some of your work!
Weirs is a ton of fun during the summer!
Awesome video
Thanks!
Use a brass brush for deburring instead. Its a bit more abrasive than a plastic one but it works way better.
Great tip, thank you!
Ever tried using contact paper to mask areas? If i'm doing a sign with a colored base I paint base color then lightly sand to get a smooth surface for contact paper to stick to, also if using wood where stain and varnish are used then do the stain and varnish before machining then sand and apply contact paper,machine pattern then paint over paper after paint, remove paper makes for nice crisp lines, very helpful when using multiple colors, I use a contact paper called Oracal it sticks well ,I use a laminate roller to make sure it sticks and to get out air bubbles. If you are going to try this make sure you get the matt finish removable contact paper, if you get the gloss permanent contact paper it's a bi#$h to remove.
Thanks, that's super helpful! I've used a paper mask once, but definitely had some issues.
Brah, I love this channel. I can’t get enough hehehe. Do you have a vid on how you built your table saw sled? I’m needing to build one and it seems intimidating lol
Thank you! I don't have a vid on that unfortunately.
@@CasualBuilds I understand! Thanks so much
Do you add a hanger of some kind?
What CNC are you using. Would have liked to see that in the tools you use
After the CNC you use a brush to get rid of some splinter material, do you also sand it before the next step?
Yes, I believe I did and forgot to add it to the video. It helps get all those little pieces as well. A lot of people here have also mentioned using a downcut spiral bit to help reduce the splintering.
great vid.What tools do you recommend for a beginner?
Thank you. Check out the video I posted after this one, titled How to Get Started with Woodworking - I talk about beginner woodworking tools.
What should i buy for the engraver?
Great video, nicely done. Curious what router bit are you using for your cuts? Also a couple ideas, Oramask or simple shelf liner paper makes cleanup easy. Just peel it and stick it on before you start cutting. Very little sanding which is nice. Also I started using regular paint with a brush. It seems to be thicker and wont bleed into the grain of the wood. How many signs can you end up selling in a typical month?
Thank you! I used a spiral upcut bit on this project I believe. Many people here recommended a down cut bit and the oramask as well. I still need to try that out! I've slowed down my production on signs at the moment, but the ones I did make, would typically sell fairly quickly. My focus is more on content creation here on TH-cam, rather than making pieces to sell. I still do it from time to time, though.
Can someone link the glue-up clamps he's using in the video? Thank you!
What About Bob? Lake Winnipesaukee? So, it is a real place after all!
Hahaha, yes! It's a real place! The store that I work with actually has What About Bob themed shirts for sale.
How does the black paint hold up over time in the elements?
I'm not sure - I never met the person this was sold too. I believe they keep it inside too.
AWESOME Tips!!! Thank you!!
Thank you for watching!!
What bit did you carve that with?
If you use a down sheer bit while carving you will get less tear out.
Thanks! At the time, I only had two bits on hand, either a flute style one or a spiral upcut. I believe the flute is designed for less tear out, but the bottom of the cutout won't be as smooth as an upcut one. I definitely need to acquire some new bits though, thanks for the recommendation!
Nice job BUT why didn't you go through the CAD & Toolpath process as well?? There is VERY little on youtube for this process and would make for a great couple of vids!!
Great idea for a future vid!
I was wondering more about the finish process. Was it just one pass of the torch, one sanding, and then the coats of poly? What sanding block did you use? Thanks, great vid
Yeah exactly that. My torch actually died on that last pass through in the video so what you saw is the only torching I did. I really like these sanding sponges from Lowe's, I think 3M makes them, I always have a 120 and 220 on hand.
Hi what cnc machine you using for this video thanks
curious do you get many customers complain about warping?
You mentioned making mock-ups for the clients to approve your design. How is that done? Do you print, make a computer image? Great video. Thank you.
Hi Michael - Thanks for watching! The software I use for my CNC allows the ability to render a preview of what it will look like after its been carved out. I sent a picture of that via email to the client for approval. Hope that helps!
Thanks for sharing
Can you plane the wood after the spray paint has dried to remove it? Instead of sanding?
Possibly. I didn't want to remove too much material since it was a bit too thin.
Great video, can you recommend a good CNC machine?
Thanks! I only have experience with the X-Carve from Inventables. I have no complaints.
@@CasualBuilds thank you
Mask your workpiece before engraving. After the engraving is when you should paint. Allow to dry, then remove masking! Works like a charm, and far less sanding 😎
Yea, I definitely should have done that here. I've done that method since then and it works great.
@@CasualBuilds I didn't realize the date in which you uploaded this video and figured you had since gotten far more refined! Looking good brother!
Look at a different cutter bit for less tear out.
Yea, I've used a few down cut bits recently and they work great to remove that tear out.
Did that board warp on you? Seemed flat all the way up until some of the post burn shots but I’d find it pretty hard to believe that such a light burn would warp out like that so I’m hoping it’s just a trick of the lens because I really don’t want to have to drill dowels or cut biscuits for something this simple
It did warp a little afterwards. I think it's because the pieces were pretty thin and I didn't alternative grain direction. Also, I should have milled the material, waited a day or so to see if there was any changes before gluing things up.
@@CasualBuilds oh okay, well dually noted hah thanks!
It may be the torching. It’s called sho sugi, a Japanese finishing technique, to torch the board. As you torch one side, it causes the board to cup. Solution is to do a quick similar torch on the back side and it will mostly go way. I’ve done several of these and that is the cause/fix I have used
Is that Winnipesaukee?
Yes
Use the clear coat after you CNC, let that dry than do the black spray paint.
Got it, thanks!
quick ? I noticed that after the CNC was done cutting everything out there were a lot of wooden fringes. Do you find that this happens often and what do you usually do to get rid of them. Do you just sand the entire board down or maybe run through the planer? I'm confused with what I saw and how you handled it as you didn't mention it.
Great question, I'll use a little wire brush and lightly sand as well to remove them.
Is that because the bit is not sharp enough
Someone just mentioned down cut bit. Sounds good to me
Men have all the damn fun.
why wouldn't you use the planer again to get rid of the overspray? especially if you have an issue with it bleeding deeper than you want to sand?
I thought about that, but the board was already too thin and I didn't want to remove any more material.
I use lasers. I don’t get as much as you do per sign, but I do get volume. I’ve done $25k on one $37 sign since the start of the pandemic.
That's awesome! What laser engraver do you have?
@@CasualBuilds I have 2 80w machines and one 50w machine. They are all 3 non branded Chinese lasers. I went that rout because I can upgrade and fix them myself. Saved THOUSANDS
Question: DO you think you could paint and then run through the planer to get over spray off?
I'm not sure to be honest. I'd think the paint would gum up the planer knives, but I'm not sure. I didn't want to try here because the board was already way too thin and I didn't want to remove any more thickness if I could help it.
Kinda speed through the carving part which is the most important!
I'm planning to make another vid soon.
What do you recommend for a CNC machine?
I have the X-Carve from Inventables and I enjoy using it!
How do you like your X-Carve? Is there a different CNC you would recommend instead? I'm trying to buy my first CNC, and I'm having a hard time finding a better one for the price.
I love my X-Carve! I don't have experience with any other CNCs so I couldn't recommend one over another. I went with the X-Carve because it seemed like the most beginner friendly option for an affordable price.
This all hinges on this cnc. Price,if too high,will snuff my dream,lol.
hand planer to remove paint
Great video very interesting just wish I had a machine that did that kinda engraving
Thanks!
What model cnc do you have? I have been wanting to buy one but I'm worried about spending the money on something too small or that doesn't work great.
What are common materials?
Great work! What is the final size of this sign?
Oh man, I can't remember. I think it was roughly 12" wide and maybe 25" or so long?
What kind of cnc machine you using and how it cost to get one like it?
Thanks
X-Carve by Inventables
What design software are you using. Easel?
Yep!