Thank you so much for this. I thought it was only my Sequoia having this issue with the melting door latch cover. Crazy they let this go out of the factory with this issue! Also, I used goo gone gel to remove the tar residue after scraping most of it off. With that and a few paper towels looks like new.
Oh man, I'm so happy to see this video! Our problem seems to be the same as yours. I just ordered parts (I'm getting the switch assembly as well, just in case the plastic parts are just too old and fragile). The Toyota dealer wanted over $1,000 to fix the rear hatch switch on our 2008 Sequoia. Thank you!!
Thanks for the detailed video. Did mine today using your video as a guide. Largest part/time was scraping off all the melted rubber from the switch and bracket.
Pretty good video. Just did this to my 2014. Took me about 1 hour being pretty careful. The black “tar” around the button is black butyl sealant or putty. The same stuff used on the plastic sheet vapor barrier. It is very sticky and stubborn but it is great weather sealant.
Thanks brother, was able to fix my handle cushion and replace my lock hatch mechanism which was not fully closing. Once I replaced my rear hatch lock mechanism my rear fold seat buttons and close hatch button started working properly. I also had to remove the ecu-b fuse for five minutes in order to reset the system. All works perfect now, praise the LORD!
Thank you for the video! I needed to change the power latch assembly on my 2010 Sequoia and your video was perfect for showing me how to get access in to the door. If anyone else changes the assembly latch, initially after I installed the new one it would not work. The door closed and partially latched but then would not open or close. If I tried using the button it would beep twice and the car display was showing the door as open. Then I read I need to disconnect and reconnect the negative battery terminal to reset the system. I tried that a couple times but it still wouldn't do anything. *Then* I used the remote to lock and unlock the doors and at that point the latch started working. So it seems you need a combination of disconnecting the battery and then using the door locks.
@@MrHilljohntimothy My Sequoia is almost 150k miles. I have only owned it for a little over a year and in that time one thing that has needed to be changed is the serpentine belt. Then the power latch assembly that recently stopped working. We are very happy with it.
a better option for the plastic cover is to pull until you feel resistance then slice mm by mm with a razor blade. sometimes the stuff will stick and the plastic will tear before the glue releases. it is also easier when pressing back together bc you have a clean line whereas if you just pull, sometimes you get those long strings and they make a mess
2011 SR5. And the tailgate won't latch/shut. I can just lift it open. The button to open it, I can hear it working but that's to open it. I keep finding solutions for Hatches that WONT open. What about for the ones that won't shut/latch/close propper. Thanks 👍
Nope. Thanks for the video but you “conveniently” left out you removing the left upper side panel - that thing does NOT come off and those plastic clips are not easy to replace
Nick, did you replace the button because the button wasn't working? The problem I have is that when I close the trunk, it doesn't stay locked. A few days ago, the button stopped working completely and from the outside, the rubber looks fine but when I press the button, there's nothing. Is that what you experienced?
Thank you so much for this. I thought it was only my Sequoia having this issue with the melting door latch cover. Crazy they let this go out of the factory with this issue! Also, I used goo gone gel to remove the tar residue after scraping most of it off. With that and a few paper towels looks like new.
Oh man, I'm so happy to see this video! Our problem seems to be the same as yours. I just ordered parts (I'm getting the switch assembly as well, just in case the plastic parts are just too old and fragile). The Toyota dealer wanted over $1,000 to fix the rear hatch switch on our 2008 Sequoia. Thank you!!
Thanks for the detailed video. Did mine today using your video as a guide. Largest part/time was scraping off all the melted rubber from the switch and bracket.
Great solution, I was going to get a whole assembly till I saw this. Thank you!
Pretty good video. Just did this to my 2014. Took me about 1 hour being pretty careful. The black “tar” around the button is black butyl sealant or putty. The same stuff used on the plastic sheet vapor barrier. It is very sticky and stubborn but it is great weather sealant.
Thanks brother, was able to fix my handle cushion and replace my lock hatch mechanism which was not fully closing. Once I replaced my rear hatch lock mechanism my rear fold seat buttons and close hatch button started working properly. I also had to remove the ecu-b fuse for five minutes in order to reset the system. All works perfect now, praise the LORD!
This was perfect, EXACTLY what I needed. Same problem, fixed in under an hour. Thank you so very much!!!
Great video and good job talking through each step
Thanks for your video! I will be tackling this project soon!
Thank you so much for this video! Great job! Just what I needed! 👍🏻😀
Very easy to follow! Thanks for the explanation
Just what I needed. Thanks for the video. I was able to fix my car easily following your instructions.
glad to hear this video was helpful!
Thank you for the video! I needed to change the power latch assembly on my 2010 Sequoia and your video was perfect for showing me how to get access in to the door. If anyone else changes the assembly latch, initially after I installed the new one it would not work. The door closed and partially latched but then would not open or close. If I tried using the button it would beep twice and the car display was showing the door as open. Then I read I need to disconnect and reconnect the negative battery terminal to reset the system. I tried that a couple times but it still wouldn't do anything. *Then* I used the remote to lock and unlock the doors and at that point the latch started working. So it seems you need a combination of disconnecting the battery and then using the door locks.
May I ask how your Sequoia is doing? How many miles? Any major issues, etc.
Mine just rolled 200k and is running strong.
@@MrHilljohntimothy My Sequoia is almost 150k miles. I have only owned it for a little over a year and in that time one thing that has needed to be changed is the serpentine belt. Then the power latch assembly that recently stopped working. We are very happy with it.
Excellent video, Thank you!
Thank you Mr. Shin! I will try it and see how it goes.
Nicely done.
Great help nick
I’m having the issue of my button not working but now I can’t even get the hatch to open to do this reinstall. Anyone have any tips to get it open?
samesies, im looking into it now as how to fix it
Wow! Thanks for the info.
a better option for the plastic cover is to pull until you feel resistance then slice mm by mm with a razor blade. sometimes the stuff will stick and the plastic will tear before the glue releases. it is also easier when pressing back together bc you have a clean line whereas if you just pull, sometimes you get those long strings and they make a mess
Were did you get the part at
Amazing, Thank you
2011 SR5. And the tailgate won't latch/shut. I can just lift it open. The button to open it, I can hear it working but that's to open it. I keep finding solutions for Hatches that WONT open. What about for the ones that won't shut/latch/close propper.
Thanks 👍
Nope. Thanks for the video but you “conveniently” left out you removing the left upper side panel - that thing does NOT come off and those plastic clips are not easy to replace
Thanks
Nick, did you replace the button because the button wasn't working? The problem I have is that when I close the trunk, it doesn't stay locked. A few days ago, the button stopped working completely and from the outside, the rubber looks fine but when I press the button, there's nothing. Is that what you experienced?
What ended up being the problem?
@MrHilljohntimothy still haven't fixed it. The remote and button inside still works so I didn't bother. I will have to one day though.
Yes, sir, thay charge a ton at the dealer
Thanks!!!
How do I remove the “sequoia” plate below the Toyota emblem?
prob a heatgun and either 90% rubbing alcohol or acetone then detail that area
@@tipr8739 ty. Appreciate it.
@@americandude3825 Thats not true I was thinking the Iforce plate. I think you have to unscrew it from the inside
@@tipr8739 ok. Thanks. I’ll look at it. Appreciate it once again.