I'm coming here 5 years after you posted this. I don't know where you are now bro but you saved my bacon! I had shops throwing electronic parts at this thing even telling me my cats were clogged. I saw this video, took apart the front end of my engine, and found that crank sprocket had an entire belt tooth worth of wear in the keyway. My valve and ignition timing was probably going back and forth 10° or more. This is a mechanical problem that seems like an electrical problem to everyone who looks at it. Those shops were just going to keep taking my money and they would have never found this. Thanks a million for posting this I'd send you 50 bucks right now if I had your PayPal.
This is the type of crap you find on a motor teardown, very VERY difficult to find in your situation (not tearing down). Really good stuff man, definition of not giving up. I've always felt when a job goes perfectly you learn nothing, this 3.4 sent you to school and you came out with a well deserved degree. ALSO I've got a 98 Tacoma with 345k and no idea when timing belt was changed last AND she seems to be lacking in the power department, will definitely be checking this when doin that job, something I had ZERO idea I should look at while I'm in there. Thanks big time for that, think I'll be checkin out more of your skills. I work on shit, I know how hard issues like that can be. This video is just awesome... and greatly appreciated.
Absolutely!!! Computerization of automobiles is great, but no matter how "smart" the system is, it's always going to miss something that it wasn't programmed to observe. This is where you put the scan tool down and use your hands. My usual practice, when I buy a used vehicle from a seller who didn't keep good records, is to replace key components, fluids, and update records from that point forward. Peace of mind is better than being broken down away from home. Keep me posted on what you find.
@@tahahadada1936 is this a request of my channel or Mecca Tronics channel? What rear engine seal are you talking about? The rear main seal is the crankshaft seal on the back side of the engine.
@@tahahadada1936 I have videos showing pulling both an auto transmission and manual transmission on my channel. Auto Trans - th-cam.com/video/oZDSjlxl2Q4/w-d-xo.html Manual Trans - th-cam.com/video/5PJPZ5-AK-I/w-d-xo.html The manual trans removal was necessary for a clutch replacement and at the beginning of Part 2 we show replacing the rear main seal. I did an auto transmission replacement on a FJ Cruiser and replaced the rear main seal on that rig as well using a different technique to get the seal out. About 12 minutes into this video you can see how I removed the seal with a hose pick tool: th-cam.com/video/4K1mD0bRgJ4/w-d-xo.html
leadvillejim I appreciate that. It was more mind boggling than nerve-wracking. Huge relief to have finally found the actual problem. I uploaded the FIX video. Let me know what you think.
Man, I just wish that when I took my Taco in to the dealer to fix, they'd had as good a mechanic as you obviously are! I'd read about this issue and tried to tell the dealership's mechanic but he said he didn't know what I was talking about. So, hundreds of bucks later and it still ran terribly. I've got to replace the water pump and, as long as I'm in there, I'm going to check that cog. Thanks, my friend! Excellent video!
Good job man. Nice video and great job showing exactly what was going on. You saved a lot of other people a lot of time and money. Very much appreciated man!
Whenever you/we do a timing belt replacement, Do so accordingly to the Toyota spec. I had mine done by a Toyota M/M after a reputable shop replaced the timing belt (only), later a phantom oil was found. The OE Toyota 5VZ 3.4L V6 kit that the Toyota M/M used contained the following: New Parts: 1pcs Timing Belt 13568-69095/13568-YZZ03 1pcs Idler Roller 13503-62040 1pcs Tensioner Roller 13505-62070 1pcs Front Crankshaft Seal 90311-40022 2pcs Front Camshaft Seals 90311-38051 1pcs Water Pump 16100-69398-83 1pcs Hydraulic Tensioner 13540-62021 1pcs Thermostat 90916-03075 1pcs Air Conditioning Belt 99364-20870 1pcs Alternator Belt 90080-91090 1pcs Power Steering Belt 90080-91126/99364-21070 By following the Toyota M/M spec and not just replacing the timing belt only, you/we will save $ & acquire a better working knowledge. Compatible Model: 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner This complete parts list was found on eBay and was the same as the parts list/repairs I needed to do to locate and remove the phantom oil leak, it would have also provided discovery of your diminished crankshaft pin/key that is/was causing you throttle sensor problems and would have saved you the unnecessary purchase of a new throttle body. www.ebay.com/itm/387632969820?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pm3sj6-ht-a&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ZZpYMdAVSdq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Thanks my friend for this video. Although my 2002 Tacoma that I bought last yesr, runs fine, I am very glad I got this knowledge from you, because If my truck starts losing power in the future, I will know where to go to find the cause. Thank you ! Your friend from Puerto Rico, Edwin Oliveras
Nice catch! Most technicians would just continue to throw parts at the problem to only make them look like an idiot and pissing off the customer in the process to the point that they will never come back. I've been a dealership technician for over 2 decades and I always get stuck fixing my coworkers come backs after their 2nd failed attempt which happens more often than I care to admit. I guess that's part of being the shop foreman. At least the jobs pay well and I get to see the odd problems that most never get to see . Love to see videos like this, keep them coming.
I really appreciate this video is really helpful for me, I just removed the my timing belt in my 2002 4Runner and is and had the same problem, really thank you very much, this video helped me a lot
At 55 years old I'll sometimes walk to my tool box and realize that I've completely forgotten what tool I came for. Talk about early dementia. But this video here, I'll never forget shit like this. Good job my brother.And when I say brother screw that race crap. Professional Tech watch these videos and consistently finish your sentences, and know what you're about to say and do beforehand.
That’s happens to me and I’m 25. I have to stand next to my box for awhile or go back to the car and then I remember. I had a cerebral hemorrhage at a young age from a car accident. I blame it on that anyways.
@@Gregg0112 Iam sure everyone has these days. But when I was in my twenties there was nothing to forget, I woke up around 33 anos, our study of auto- tech when backed up by years of successful repairs makes us some of the most essential people in society. Turns out that most men regardless of age have nothing important to "forget" about.
I had a 87” 22RE , that had power then the throttle seemed like a a point would bring back power, a happy point! Could that have been the problem. It still haunts me today. It had a sweet spot and ran great, pass that sweet spot and the power was gone. Thanks for everyone’s time. If you have any ideas, I could sleep better knowing what caused this problem. Miss that truck. Very low miles on the motor...
Timing belt tensioner bolt must coated with anti seizure blue compound otherwise the bolt becoming lose due to vibration ( it lose on my 3.4 4runner after timing belt changed, but no piston damaged because most toyota are non iInterference engines) . this is a good video, brother !
Nice detective work bruh!!.( looks like your woodruff key might have broke ) I have been jumping all over the FSM and YT /forums trying to fix my engine's 'possible' Failsafe mode, 'wont go over 15 mph, full power loss after 2 seconds on peddle.. got codes thrown for Knock sensor, MAF, TBS, O2, Fuel pump, various other CEL codes none of which were the problem, But maybe I just have a timing issue Loose belt/ failing tensioner, I will definitely tear into it tomorrow and see if I have any slop in my belt and check my TDC marks Btw, Solving the mystery of the 5vz going into into Failsafe mode would a Super useful video for Timmy to do... If he sees this,
Thank you for the video. I am on the same path now. Somehow my truck suddenly has no power. I had to tow home. Now I found out the timming is way advance and the RPM about 1300 RPM at idle. It is a bit high. Hopefully it is just a TPS sensor. Hopefully it is not a big problem like your.
I just did the t belt in my 4Runner and the belt was in good shape and the hydraulic tensioner was good but the previous person to do the belt had the crank off by 2 teeth. Or if I lined the crank up the cams would be off one tooth. No check engine but that must have moved my power somewhere else in the rev range.
Good Job 👍Brother and THANKYOU for your helpful TUTORIAL. MUCH Appreciated. I Easily and Quickly Subscribed. Keep it up and thanks for the great content. Cheees!
I had this issue about 5 yrs ago. For the life of me, I could fix the dang lost power. Finally, I took it to a mechanic and he found that exact movement on the timing gear. Apparently the chuck key ate into it.
Hats off to you for diagnosing this, I've never seen anyone online mention this..how did you lock into position or did you just replace the part? Also when installing the new one how do you prevent it from happening again? Thank you
Michael Laz Thank you!! I ended up replacing the bad component, which was the cog at the crank. I posted the FIX video just now. Let me know what you think.
When plugs and wires don't work I would go strait for the timing sometimes it will jump a tooth still run but not well. I can't imagine a throttle body going bad without visual damage. The TPS maybe but easy to check. Throttle body you just clean. Live and learn.
Thanks 👍. It was baffling at first, but I always resort to old-school investigations vs relying on scan tools. In this case, none of the scan tool data added up, especially with the ecu not holding any code once I cycled the key.
My 01 Camry skipped timing but still ran ok, but it knocked like a rod bearing for 3 months at idle, the Cam seal was leaking a Qt a week and soaked the timing belt, until it started stalling, then I checked the belt and it ran great after I replaced it.
Awesome thanks for the info man planning on doing the timing belt as preventative maintenance on my 4runner that has 430,xxx awesome tip to keep in mind as I have not had one do that yet although I dont see alot of them aside from my own trucks. Great video 👍
Must Be A Different T.Body Than the Reg.Tundras,W/ Same Eng.Had an 01 Tundra That I Put 888,850 mls.on It & Never Had A Throttle Body Issue W/ It.When Coil Packs Were Worn Out,Never Got A Check Eng.Lite,Just Loss of Power,So I Just Chgd.Coil Pks.Every Other Time I Chgd.Plugs.I'd Check For MAF AirSensor Code,Use the O'Reilly's Blue Code Scanner,Believe It's the BOSCH One,Gives More Accurate Scans than the Cheap Orange Ones Auto Zone Uses.
Glad i seen this video my 3.4 4runner been a dog since i bought it used i know the timing belt needs replaced how hard was that crank gear to replace if mine is in same situation ?
besides being worn out, why does the gear/cog in the crank move. It would have been nice to see what was locking it in place after you pulled it out a bit and turned it. Great job diagnosing it. That thing will cause all sorts of problems and readings
Still hoping to see that "fix video." Would love to see the follow-up to your investigation as I think I've got the same issue with my 98 Tacoma. Thanks!
I think one reason for the cog keyway and woodruff key becoming worn is the crankshaft pulley bolt not being torqued to spec. and it works loose. The spec is 217 ft/lbs for the first generation 3.4 v6 tacoma pulley bolt, I used a new bolt from Toyota that has thread locking compound pre-applied, if I were to re-use the old bolt I would use blue loc-tite on it, but it's a $10 part so I use a new one.
i bought a stored 2002 landcruiser prado that has less than 10000 mile it makes a pop sound when i floor it.... i think its the spark plugs... also sometimes it will not down shift when i floor it and i need to fully stop for it to go back to normal... it has the same 3.4 5vz-fe engine and 4speed automatic a343f
I really hope I find my problem. 98 4runner 3.4 and on light acceleration I feel a jolt like if the engine misfires horrible but I have no CEL. Just bought it so i will have to check tomorrow
Hi look at your video and I got a Lotta good information from it. Thanks I’m working a 97 t100 I bought a rebuilt 3.4 and fuel pump but the truck won’t start any tips or videos on it. Thanks again.
Great job. My 2003 tacoma crankshaft pully torque setting is 217ft lb for a reason. So that doesn't happen, when some bum mechanic only torques it to good and tight.
This is from someone not torquing the crank sprocket.. if seen this in Honda and Toyota. Some hack cant use a torque wrenches. In some cases the key way on the crank is destroyed...all because some flat-rate hatchet job couldn't take the time
Sounds like throttle body nonsense is caused by timing confusion: need a screen to log crank timing signals vs. cam timing - this instability would show up, as the drive hub on the crank walks around it's [trashed] keyway. Is there a handheld that can do that? I have an OBD tool, but don't think it can catch data with millisecond accuracy [plus the screen is too small].
That's exactly what happened, and lead me in the wrong direction originally. That +/-5 degree walk, had the ecu offering enough self correction, for me not to see anything wrong with the crank sensor signaling. As soon as I took the upper timing cover off, and hand cranked the engine, boom, delay in timing belt movement.
Wish I'd seen this 4 months ago.. literally just replaced crank gear engine idled rough had poor power and threw misfire codes on cylinder 3 and 6 everything I climbed a grade. .the gear looked perfect but when you placed the relucter on a flat surface it had 2 bent teeth and a bit of a warp to it.. if that relucter wheel isn't perfect it will cause the engine to run horribly and you will be chasing ghosts
How much of a pain is that gear to get off and how much did it cost? How long to do it? Great work. I wouldn’t have known it wasn’t supposed to wiggle. Nice job.
Thanks Sammy 👍 The gear and key came together, I wanna say I paid $15 USD from the dealership. They had everything in stock, so call your local dealership and hopefully you'll have a similar experience. Taking it off the crankshaft was easy. The woodruff key was a bit difficult, because it was nearly seize. Total time...2hrs. I replaced the waterpump, etc., while I was already in that area.
Hey man just came across this video as I’m about to do the timing belt kit on my 5vzfe. What’s the fix for this problem if I run into it? Can you just pull that front gear out (like you did) and it will stay in place or do you need a new crankshaft timing pulley and timing belt guide?
I really hope this is the problem with my truck. I've been running circles in circles trying to figure out what is wrong; changed all my ignition, injectors, fuel pump etc... didn't even think of this when I changed my timing belt. Hopefully this helps me!!
This is helpful! What did you do to correct the bottom -- crank spline? How'd you get that spindle to ride where it needs to? I have the same engine, 3.4L V6 on my '97 Tacoma 4x4... just turned 290K and got my first ever 'check engine' on the dash. The symptoms were, it started strong as always, it idled ok, there was no hesitation in acceleration but when I got to speed and the load fell away the RPM fell off as if I pulled my foot off the pedal. I wasn't able to get a reading on it. Five different devices couldn't read it. Toyota couldn't read it. The truck had a stroke, I've got the brain out getting refurbed and I'll get it back in like five days. I have been racking my head trying to figure out what might have caused the power glitch -- because the check engine light came on at the precise moment that the power fell off with no load. You showed how that can happen. Now all I got to know is what did you do to fix it, did you video the job? Thanks, KCOD
Thanks for the video! Thankfully, my sprocket didn't have this wear, but thanks to you I was watching carefully when doing my own timing belt replacement. That wear looks quite unusual though. How many miles did the truck have on it? Manual or automatic?
This guy didn't even know if it was a 3.4 or 3.6 liter engine. Kind of hard to miss that, when it said 3400 on the timing belt cover. There are so many different reasons for sluggish throttle or hesitation; man you cost this customer a lot of money in diagnostics. I had sluggish throttle and hesitation, and when spark plugs, new coils, and plug wires didn't work, I replaced the MAF sensor with an aftermarket one and the problem was fixed. Cost me $37 for an aftermarket one on Amazon, so I bought a second one in case that one failed.
Well im thinking this might be the issue with my 4 runner, it loses power badly up hill and when i get to the top of the hill its got full power. Iv done spark plugs and the fuel filter and ran some 44k fuel cleaner through it and its not helping one bit. Its starting to get really annoying lol.
throttle body i rarely change them cleaning yep tps very very high miles or something weird and they get loose at pivot on an old ford and small vacuum leak occurred ..thanks for showing this video A+ weird issue with slopping out of the timing gear..Be blessed friend Jesus is King
I've got a 2002 4 runner, i scanned it with the last Snapon last generation scanner and every thing is perfect apparently, but on highway I've got some like a misfiring but it's not, i mean, it feels like no power at all for a 1/100 of a second and constantly for 3 to 5 seconds till i push throttle all the way button. So I'm thinking... Could it be the same issue that you've got?
I'm coming here 5 years after you posted this. I don't know where you are now bro but you saved my bacon! I had shops throwing electronic parts at this thing even telling me my cats were clogged. I saw this video, took apart the front end of my engine, and found that crank sprocket had an entire belt tooth worth of wear in the keyway. My valve and ignition timing was probably going back and forth 10° or more. This is a mechanical problem that seems like an electrical problem to everyone who looks at it. Those shops were just going to keep taking my money and they would have never found this. Thanks a million for posting this I'd send you 50 bucks right now if I had your PayPal.
This is the type of crap you find on a motor teardown, very VERY difficult to find in your situation (not tearing down). Really good stuff man, definition of not giving up. I've always felt when a job goes perfectly you learn nothing, this 3.4 sent you to school and you came out with a well deserved degree. ALSO I've got a 98 Tacoma with 345k and no idea when timing belt was changed last AND she seems to be lacking in the power department, will definitely be checking this when doin that job, something I had ZERO idea I should look at while I'm in there. Thanks big time for that, think I'll be checkin out more of your skills. I work on shit, I know how hard issues like that can be. This video is just awesome... and greatly appreciated.
Absolutely!!! Computerization of automobiles is great, but no matter how "smart" the system is, it's always going to miss something that it wasn't programmed to observe. This is where you put the scan tool down and use your hands. My usual practice, when I buy a used vehicle from a seller who didn't keep good records, is to replace key components, fluids, and update records from that point forward. Peace of mind is better than being broken down away from home. Keep me posted on what you find.
Thanks for sharing this. I work on these engines a lot with my own TH-cam channel and this is great information to know. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for your response and for watching. Subscribed to your channel
Big fan ,could we have a video on rear engine seal and the crank shaft seal ,thanks .
@@tahahadada1936 is this a request of my channel or Mecca Tronics channel? What rear engine seal are you talking about? The rear main seal is the crankshaft seal on the back side of the engine.
@@TimmyTheToolman yes that one Timmy and yes am asking you Timmy
@@tahahadada1936 I have videos showing pulling both an auto transmission and manual transmission on my channel.
Auto Trans - th-cam.com/video/oZDSjlxl2Q4/w-d-xo.html
Manual Trans - th-cam.com/video/5PJPZ5-AK-I/w-d-xo.html
The manual trans removal was necessary for a clutch replacement and at the beginning of Part 2 we show replacing the rear main seal.
I did an auto transmission replacement on a FJ Cruiser and replaced the rear main seal on that rig as well using a different technique to get the seal out. About 12 minutes into this video you can see how I removed the seal with a hose pick tool: th-cam.com/video/4K1mD0bRgJ4/w-d-xo.html
Nothing better than learning valuable information from someone that is really good at what they do. Thank you sir!
72drowssap You're welcome.
Well done, sir, and thank you for sharing that with us. That's like solving a mystery, and despite all the work, must feel satisfying. Take care
leadvillejim I appreciate that. It was more mind boggling than nerve-wracking. Huge relief to have finally found the actual problem. I uploaded the FIX video. Let me know what you think.
That was a great find! Wish you were where I lived you would certainly be the mechanic I'd use.
Benton Ratcliff I'll be sure to post more troubleshooting videos, and you can share with your Mechanic
Thanks a bunch man my 4runner I bought has this exact problem aswell just confirmed!! THANK YOU
Teddy Wells you're welcome. Thanks for watching 👍
@@MeccaEl Where to get a Throttle manifold for cheaper, those things are expensive?
@@Brian-vz7xe got this one from Advanced Auto. I can't rmbr the exact cost, but it was more than $500
Man, I just wish that when I took my Taco in to the dealer to fix, they'd had as good a mechanic as you obviously are! I'd read about this issue and tried to tell the dealership's mechanic but he said he didn't know what I was talking about. So, hundreds of bucks later and it still ran terribly. I've got to replace the water pump and, as long as I'm in there, I'm going to check that cog. Thanks, my friend! Excellent video!
Good job man. Nice video and great job showing exactly what was going on. You saved a lot of other people a lot of time and money. Very much appreciated man!
Craig Mann I appreciate that a lot. Check out the FIX video
Whenever you/we do a timing belt replacement,
Do so accordingly to the Toyota spec.
I had mine done by a Toyota M/M after a reputable shop replaced the timing belt (only), later a phantom oil was found.
The OE Toyota 5VZ 3.4L V6 kit that the Toyota M/M used contained the following:
New Parts:
1pcs Timing Belt 13568-69095/13568-YZZ03
1pcs Idler Roller 13503-62040
1pcs Tensioner Roller 13505-62070
1pcs Front Crankshaft Seal 90311-40022
2pcs Front Camshaft Seals 90311-38051
1pcs Water Pump 16100-69398-83
1pcs Hydraulic Tensioner 13540-62021
1pcs Thermostat 90916-03075
1pcs Air Conditioning Belt 99364-20870
1pcs Alternator Belt 90080-91090
1pcs Power Steering Belt 90080-91126/99364-21070
By following the Toyota M/M spec and not just replacing the timing belt only, you/we will save $ & acquire a better working knowledge.
Compatible Model:
1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner
This complete parts list was found on eBay and was the same as the parts list/repairs I needed to do to locate and remove the phantom oil leak,
it would have also provided discovery of your diminished crankshaft pin/key that is/was causing you throttle sensor problems and would have saved you the unnecessary purchase of a new throttle body.
www.ebay.com/itm/387632969820?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pm3sj6-ht-a&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ZZpYMdAVSdq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
That was a damn good find! I like the way you explain things as well. Fast, simple and quick to detail. Subscribed!
Vincent Gelvez thank you
Good to know, that's something I wouldn't have thought to look at. Good job!
Thank you, and thanks for watching 👍
I’m five years late but you still the man
Thanks my friend for this video. Although my 2002 Tacoma that I bought last yesr, runs fine, I am very glad I got this knowledge from you, because If my truck starts losing power in the future, I will know where to go to find the cause. Thank you ! Your friend from Puerto Rico, Edwin Oliveras
Good gremlin to look for. I’ll be at least this deep in a 5vzfe pretty soon. Thank you for the tip.
Ben Shoaf you're welcome. Thanks for watching,
Very usefull! thank you for taking the time by making this video, gonna have my eyes open for this issue in the future!
Funkydott and thank-you. I posted the FIX video. Let me know what you think.
Nice catch! Most technicians would just continue to throw parts at the problem to only make them look like an idiot and pissing off the customer in the process to the point that they will never come back. I've been a dealership technician for over 2 decades and I always get stuck fixing my coworkers come backs after their 2nd failed attempt which happens more often than I care to admit. I guess that's part of being the shop foreman. At least the jobs pay well and I get to see the odd problems that most never get to see . Love to see videos like this, keep them coming.
I really appreciate this video is really helpful for me, I just removed the my timing belt in my 2002 4Runner and is and had the same problem, really thank you very much, this video helped me a lot
Thanks for watching. I'm glad I was able to help you. Happy New Year
Great job! I bet that was driving you crazy until the light bulb went on.
Oooh yes!!! 🤣🤣🤣. I actually figured it out while I was sleeping. I solve a lot of problems in my dreams.
At 55 years old I'll sometimes walk to my tool box and realize that I've completely forgotten what tool I came for. Talk about early dementia. But this video here, I'll never forget shit like this. Good job my brother.And when I say brother screw that race crap. Professional Tech watch these videos and consistently finish your sentences, and know what you're about to say and do beforehand.
I appreciate your comment. It's guys like you, that I came up behind, learning everything experience taught you. 👍
That’s happens to me and I’m 25. I have to stand next to my box for awhile or go back to the car and then I remember. I had a cerebral hemorrhage at a young age from a car accident. I blame it on that anyways.
@@Gregg0112 Iam sure everyone has these days. But when I was in my twenties there was nothing to forget, I woke up around 33 anos, our study of auto- tech when backed up by years of successful repairs makes us some of the most essential people in society. Turns out that most men regardless of age have nothing important to "forget" about.
I don't have anything wrong but I still lose train of thought.
?
I'm surprised it still ran...crazy.... Good work...
The owner was lucky, it was always off +/-5 degrees, which is a freaking lot of play, but not enough for the piston and valve to meet.
@@MeccaEl I'm pretty sure its a non interference engine, the piston won't hit an open valve at tdc
Excellent mechanic, thank you for making a video on what you found
Meat Man you're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Exceptional work sir, thank you for posting. Very informative and exemplary skills. Thanks again!
Ryan McKee thank you
Way to go brother! Thank you very much for this video. Explained beautifully!
Thank you for the video my 2001 4runner with the v6 has 283 thousand miles and running strong hopefully I won't have this problem with mine
Michael Willey have your Mechanic check, at your next timing belt service. Cheap insurance.
Michael Willey ur good it only happens on 03-04 3.4s
I have 316k on mine. Runs like new.
I had a 87” 22RE , that had power then the throttle seemed like a a point would bring back power, a happy point! Could that have been the problem. It still haunts me today. It had a sweet spot and ran great, pass that sweet spot and the power was gone. Thanks for everyone’s time. If you have any ideas, I could sleep better knowing what caused this problem. Miss that truck. Very low miles on the motor...
This is a very common issue with the supra 2jzgte engine. Common fix is to add some welds to the back to ensure it won't come apart.
Dam ...never thought of that ... Great work bro I had the same problem on my t100 3.4
Daniel Ramirez you're man. Thanks for watching
My woodruff key ended up stripping and wearing after this happening to my 2000 tacoma I just used a welder and tacked it up
Is the woodruff key what the pulley fits into?
Just saw this, good find and great mechanic
Thank you, and thanks for watching
Timing belt tensioner bolt must coated with anti seizure blue compound otherwise the bolt becoming lose due to vibration ( it lose on my 3.4 4runner after timing belt changed, but no piston damaged because most toyota are non iInterference engines) . this is a good video, brother !
I appreciate it, and the info. Thanks for watching 👍
Nice detective work bruh!!.( looks like your woodruff key might have broke ) I have been jumping all over the FSM and YT /forums trying to fix my engine's 'possible' Failsafe mode, 'wont go over 15 mph, full power loss after 2 seconds on peddle.. got codes thrown for Knock sensor, MAF, TBS, O2, Fuel pump, various other CEL codes none of which were the problem, But maybe I just have a timing issue Loose belt/ failing tensioner, I will definitely tear into it tomorrow and see if I have any slop in my belt and check my TDC marks Btw, Solving the mystery of the 5vz going into into Failsafe mode would a Super useful video for Timmy to do... If he sees this,
Thank you for the video. I am on the same path now. Somehow my truck suddenly has no power. I had to tow home. Now I found out the timming is way advance and the RPM about 1300 RPM at idle. It is a bit high. Hopefully it is just a TPS sensor. Hopefully it is not a big problem like your.
Very good content! Great information, and direction!
Rumble Garage thank you!!
Thanks for all the info, something I need to check on my 98 4runner.
Dennis Forster you're welcome.
I just did the t belt in my 4Runner and the belt was in good shape and the hydraulic tensioner was good but the previous person to do the belt had the crank off by 2 teeth. Or if I lined the crank up the cams would be off one tooth. No check engine but that must have moved my power somewhere else in the rev range.
Sounds like the ECM also compensated
Wow
That would have been easy to miss.
Good job!
Randy Boyle Thanks a lot. And thanks for watching.
Good Job 👍Brother and THANKYOU for your helpful TUTORIAL. MUCH Appreciated.
I Easily and Quickly Subscribed.
Keep it up and thanks for the great content.
Cheees!
I had this issue about 5 yrs ago. For the life of me, I could fix the dang lost power. Finally, I took it to a mechanic and he found that exact movement on the timing gear. Apparently the chuck key ate into it.
I didn't even know that was possible. Thanks for the info!
Great video and information! Who would have thought about this as a problem??
Exactly!!! It was baffling. But, anytime something strange happens, just go back to the basics. Thanks for watching
Great observation and post man. I have a 99 Tacoma SR5 3.4l. Now I know what to look out for if I ever run into this problem. 💯💯
Sweet. Thanks for watching
@@MeccaEl Yeah for sure
Hats off to you for diagnosing this, I've never seen anyone online mention this..how did you lock into position or did you just replace the part? Also when installing the new one how do you prevent it from happening again?
Thank you
Michael Laz Thank you!! I ended up replacing the bad component, which was the cog at the crank. I posted the FIX video just now. Let me know what you think.
When plugs and wires don't work I would go strait for the timing sometimes it will jump a tooth still run but not well. I can't imagine a throttle body going bad without visual damage. The TPS maybe but easy to check. Throttle body you just clean. Live and learn.
Wow that's great! To diagnose this, it's not easy
Thanks 👍. It was baffling at first, but I always resort to old-school investigations vs relying on scan tools. In this case, none of the scan tool data added up, especially with the ecu not holding any code once I cycled the key.
My 01 Camry skipped timing but still ran ok, but it knocked like a rod bearing for 3 months at idle, the Cam seal was leaking a Qt a week and soaked the timing belt, until it started stalling, then I checked the belt and it ran great after I replaced it.
At least you found the problem other mechanis just change things thst don't fix the problem...
Bro!!! You are a BEAST!!!!
I appreciate you. Thanks for watching
Bring piston#1to top death center while crankshaft with new sprocket and new woodblock key aligned up
I appreciate you for finding this issue!
most people dont change the pulleys for the timing belt system they just change the belt. The pulleys and bearings are very important
Awesome thanks for the info man planning on doing the timing belt as preventative maintenance on my 4runner that has 430,xxx awesome tip to keep in mind as I have not had one do that yet although I dont see alot of them aside from my own trucks. Great video 👍
Thank you. Keep me posted on how everything turned out, and thanks for watching.
Must Be A Different T.Body Than the Reg.Tundras,W/ Same Eng.Had an 01 Tundra That I Put 888,850 mls.on It & Never Had A Throttle Body Issue W/ It.When Coil Packs Were Worn Out,Never Got A Check Eng.Lite,Just Loss of Power,So I Just Chgd.Coil Pks.Every Other Time I Chgd.Plugs.I'd Check For MAF AirSensor Code,Use the O'Reilly's Blue Code Scanner,Believe It's the BOSCH One,Gives More Accurate Scans than the Cheap Orange Ones Auto Zone Uses.
Glad i seen this video my 3.4 4runner been a dog since i bought it used i know the timing belt needs replaced how hard was that crank gear to replace if mine is in same situation ?
XDK I think it's a 19mm Crank bolt, and it slides right off. Very easy
Thank you good sir for your excellent knowledge.
You're welcome, and thanks for watching
Excellent work young man👍
Great post, easily missed in engine exam.
T- horse thank you
that's some good troubleshooting you did there.
besides being worn out, why does the gear/cog in the crank move. It would have been nice to see what was locking it in place after you pulled it out a bit and turned it.
Great job diagnosing it. That thing will cause all sorts of problems and readings
Travis k thanks. I'm almost done editing the "fix" video, and you'll see that the keyway that held the cog in place at the worn spot.
Still hoping to see that "fix video." Would love to see the follow-up to your investigation as I think I've got the same issue with my 98 Tacoma. Thanks!
I think one reason for the cog keyway and woodruff key becoming worn is the crankshaft pulley bolt not being torqued to spec. and it works loose.
The spec is 217 ft/lbs for the first generation 3.4 v6 tacoma pulley bolt, I used a new bolt from Toyota that has thread locking compound pre-applied, if I were to re-use the old bolt I would use blue loc-tite on it, but it's a $10 part so I use a new one.
Looks like the crank pulley bolt wasn’t tight and the crank sprocket has been slapping back and forth and had hogged the woodruff key slot out
I thought the same thing, when I saw it. That makes sense
Thanks for the information, it was well explained.!!!
enrique sosa you're welcome. Check out the FIX video and let me know what you think.
i bought a stored 2002 landcruiser prado that has less than 10000 mile it makes a pop sound when i floor it.... i think its the spark plugs... also sometimes it will not down shift when i floor it and i need to fully stop for it to go back to normal...
it has the same 3.4 5vz-fe engine and 4speed automatic a343f
Great find. great tutorial and explanation 👍
I really hope I find my problem. 98 4runner 3.4 and on light acceleration I feel a jolt like if the engine misfires horrible but I have no CEL. Just bought it so i will have to check tomorrow
Let me know what you discover
Hey there Jursaw, did you end up fixing the problem? Mines a 96 and its doing the same thing as your
akav75 I haven’t been able to drive it since I couldn’t get it registered until yesterday. I will update this comment when I figure it out
Please note that different generations have one or two piece throttle bodies depending on year. Just a fyi for junk yard hunting
SKILLS MY MAN!!!!
Thanks man, and thanks for watching.
Hi look at your video and I got a Lotta good information from it. Thanks I’m working a 97 t100 I bought a rebuilt 3.4 and fuel pump but the truck won’t start any tips or videos on it. Thanks again.
Running into this issue on my truck but only when it's under load. Wondering my bearing is starting to go.
When you get a chance to, drop the oil pan to confirm.
Decent find bub!! I got the same issue makes.complete sense.
Thank you. Let me know if you've solved the trouble with yours.
great find! my 3.4 has developed a hesitation and this could be one of the issues.
Let me know what you've discovered
@@MeccaEl was a fouled plug
Top class work
Thanks! and thanks for watching.
Great job. My 2003 tacoma crankshaft pully torque setting is 217ft lb for a reason. So that doesn't happen, when some bum mechanic only torques it to good and tight.
Very thorough, great approach, good digging. 325K here and nursing a head gasket. Wish you were around to do mine. :)
A lot of hard earned miles, I'm sure. I'd definitely knock-out that head gasket job for you. How long has it been down?
Smart thinking right here.
2:27 the hydraulic tensioner looks absolutely shot.. wonder if that contributed
That thing was trashed!!!! I'm sure it played a role.
love your videos though, very thorough and nicely shot for limited space/light. keep it up!
This is from someone not torquing the crank sprocket.. if seen this in Honda and Toyota. Some hack cant use a torque wrenches. In some cases the key way on the crank is destroyed...all because some flat-rate hatchet job couldn't take the time
Highly possible. You sound just like me, I'm a TWN also - torque wrench nazi 🤣
Sounds like throttle body nonsense is caused by timing confusion: need a screen to log crank timing signals vs. cam timing - this instability would show up, as the drive hub on the crank walks around it's [trashed] keyway. Is there a handheld that can do that? I have an OBD tool, but don't think it can catch data with millisecond accuracy [plus the screen is too small].
That's exactly what happened, and lead me in the wrong direction originally. That +/-5 degree walk, had the ecu offering enough self correction, for me not to see anything wrong with the crank sensor signaling. As soon as I took the upper timing cover off, and hand cranked the engine, boom, delay in timing belt movement.
Wish I'd seen this 4 months ago.. literally just replaced crank gear engine idled rough had poor power and threw misfire codes on cylinder 3 and 6 everything I climbed a grade. .the gear looked perfect but when you placed the relucter on a flat surface it had 2 bent teeth and a bit of a warp to it.. if that relucter wheel isn't perfect it will cause the engine to run horribly and you will be chasing ghosts
How much of a pain is that gear to get off and how much did it cost? How long to do it? Great work. I wouldn’t have known it wasn’t supposed to wiggle. Nice job.
Thanks Sammy 👍
The gear and key came together, I wanna say I paid $15 USD from the dealership. They had everything in stock, so call your local dealership and hopefully you'll have a similar experience. Taking it off the crankshaft was easy. The woodruff key was a bit difficult, because it was nearly seize. Total time...2hrs. I replaced the waterpump, etc., while I was already in that area.
Hey man just came across this video as I’m about to do the timing belt kit on my 5vzfe. What’s the fix for this problem if I run into it? Can you just pull that front gear out (like you did) and it will stay in place or do you need a new crankshaft timing pulley and timing belt guide?
Or do you need a whole new crankshaft?
I really hope this is the problem with my truck. I've been running circles in circles trying to figure out what is wrong; changed all my ignition, injectors, fuel pump etc... didn't even think of this when I changed my timing belt. Hopefully this helps me!!
That's from the balancer/crank bolt not being torqued properly.
This, and/or someone rushing and forcing the keyway to align, I agree.
This is helpful! What did you do to correct the bottom -- crank spline? How'd you get that spindle to ride where it needs to? I have the same engine, 3.4L V6 on my '97 Tacoma 4x4... just turned 290K and got my first ever 'check engine' on the dash. The symptoms were, it started strong as always, it idled ok, there was no hesitation in acceleration but when I got to speed and the load fell away the RPM fell off as if I pulled my foot off the pedal. I wasn't able to get a reading on it. Five different devices couldn't read it. Toyota couldn't read it. The truck had a stroke, I've got the brain out getting refurbed and I'll get it back in like five days. I have been racking my head trying to figure out what might have caused the power glitch -- because the check engine light came on at the precise moment that the power fell off with no load. You showed how that can happen. Now all I got to know is what did you do to fix it, did you video the job? Thanks, KCOD
Check out the second video, I answer all of your questions there
Sharp find. Thanks!
You're welcome, and thanks for watching
Yes sir that will ruin your day, new key, and new gear, proper torque on that crank bolt will fix someone else's previous timing belt job failure...
Indeed
Is that all it took was a new key and gear?
Thanks for the video! Thankfully, my sprocket didn't have this wear, but thanks to you I was watching carefully when doing my own timing belt replacement. That wear looks quite unusual though. How many miles did the truck have on it? Manual or automatic?
You're a good troubleshooter.
Spot on, thank you big time!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching
This guy didn't even know if it was a 3.4 or 3.6 liter engine. Kind of hard to miss that, when it said 3400 on the timing belt cover. There are so many different reasons for sluggish throttle or hesitation; man you cost this customer a lot of money in diagnostics. I had sluggish throttle and hesitation, and when spark plugs, new coils, and plug wires didn't work, I replaced the MAF sensor with an aftermarket one and the problem was fixed. Cost me $37 for an aftermarket one on Amazon, so I bought a second one in case that one failed.
Tim Nelson Nice!! Check out part 2 to this series, let me know what you think. Appreciate you man.
Nice. I wonder why it was loose in the first place?
Wow good find man!
Dude awesome vid. How did u end up Fixing it, replace or weld or something?
Tommy P thank-you. I ended up replacing the bad component. Check out the FIX video. Uploaded just now.
Excellent work brotha
jrbbikerx jrbbikerx thanks man
Amazing find man, did you happen to film the fix? Dying for that upload!
Sam Brumley the FIX is uploaded. Check it out, and let me know what you think. Thanks man.
MeccaTronics
Channel
Well im thinking this might be the issue with my 4 runner, it loses power badly up hill and when i get to the top of the hill its got full power. Iv done spark plugs and the fuel filter and ran some 44k fuel cleaner through it and its not helping one bit. Its starting to get really annoying lol.
Sounds exactly like what was going on with this one I repaired
good stuff
thats a tuff find right there
NeBoFoRiOn thanks! 👍
Such good info thank you.
You're welcome, and thanks for watching
throttle body i rarely change them cleaning yep tps very very high miles or something weird and they get loose at pivot on an old ford and small vacuum leak occurred ..thanks for showing this video A+ weird issue with slopping out of the timing gear..Be blessed friend Jesus is King
Can you let me know what is the cost of the new throttle body and where can I find it ? Thanks so much.
I can't recall what vendor I went with, but there are some on Amazon, for about $60 on up.
Genius bro! Cool post
RODRIGO VEGA thank you man!!
I've got a 2002 4 runner, i scanned it with the last Snapon last generation scanner and every thing is perfect apparently, but on highway I've got some like a misfiring but it's not, i mean, it feels like no power at all for a 1/100 of a second and constantly for 3 to 5 seconds till i push throttle all the way button. So I'm thinking... Could it be the same issue that you've got?