I have a 2012 Litespeed C1R carbon frame with 10 speed Ultegra DI2 groupset (rim brake with QR) and I originally built it with some alloy wheels. I liked the bike so much that I bought a set of 55mm saw tooth rims for it and had them laced to a nice set of hubs. I think this upgrade was totally worth the time and expense.
Some upgrades can also be somewhat future-proof and potentially transfer to your next bike improving their value. I got pretty nice wheels for my Triban RC520 but they're now on my newer bike - I did have to get adapters to convert between QR and TA but it wasn't very hard.
I have an Argos challenge hybrid bike. Steel frame Weighs a ton...... 15kg Stuck drop bars on it, Claris shifters. Use it as my wet weather/winter bike. 700c 35mm tyres, mud guards. Makes my top end road bike feel so much nicer when I take it out. To be honest I love both........
I agree with Jimmy re loud free hubs, I have a set of Cadex wheels and they are fantastic, but the noise they make is so obnoxious! I generally feel so embarrassed when riding past people that I keep pedalling to spare them and me the atrocious noise.
5:18 That is so true that wheels and especially tires make a massive difference in feel, grip and velocity by using the same energy due to the rolling resistance. It is a upgrade always a worth considering especially when it comes to comfort.
I got my Contend SL1 Disc for €1260 on bike scheme Ireland, was gona spend 5k on new bike but I recently broke shifter and decided to upgrade bike instead…..Aliexpress 1 piece carbon handlebar, selle Italia SLR Boost saddle, elite Marvel 50 wheel set and continental GP5000’s for €1400….still decent saving left over
I agree with Francis on the mech hanger. Family had a Trek 1200 (alum) in the 90s and the hanger bent while shifting. Had to be sent back to Trek for repair.
I got my commuter bike sorted now looking to do this with my next bike. I am thinking most middle tier bikes are the way to go. Ride it for a year or two while you replace some of the finishing kit and then decide if you want to upgrade or downgrade group set parts as they wear out. As long as you don’t crash you should be good for 5 years and then decide if you just want a new frame-set at that point.
Team! Frequent viewer, infrequent commenter...Your channel is incredible. You are honest, experienced, and relatable. I love listening and appreciate all of your energy.
It was the opposite for me. Built a mountain bike for commuting with very good components and wheels but with a mediocre frame. The frame cracked last week and I will upgrade the frame and keep all the components👍🏻
it really depends on the frame ,in not in your league ,im not in any league . my to work bike is 2016 really comfy i replaced all gear set and cables. never even thought about getting a new bike (that was an option ) love it its just so comfotable
I completely understand that replaceable mech hanger is a must. My friend just drop a bike with no speed at all and hanger has bent to the point that derailleur almost went into the spokes. I was able to fix it that almost all gears works but we have to replace the hanger for new one. That was on one week old bike so it would hurt if hanger wouldn't be replaceable.
Yes. I've worked on two steel bikes with integrated hangers and I leave myself a larger adjustment margin to avoid inputting too many alignment corrections that could weaken the structure. Here, I go for sub-3 mm deviation on the horizontal and vertical axes (I usually aim for perfect vertical alignment).
I own a mid-2000s Trek Madone that is a warranty replacement for a OCLV originally purchased new in 1995. The lifetime warranty is the one of the primary reasons I hold on to it. Should it fail, I figure Trek will replace it with something comparable, but with disc brakes and thru-axles.
I find my disc S-Works slower than my rim-brake S-Works, this is fact in everyway. While disc brakes are great for downhill, when it comes to crit racing and flat terrain, I prefer rim brakes for that extra speed advantage. Every little edge matters. Plus, I’m not a fan of having to charge electronic components. Sometimes, I miss the simplicity of a fast, no-fuss setup. Carbon wheels are a must, though!
I am happy to ride caad 13 with mech 105 and disc the only thing I would love to is internal cable routing this make so much difference to bike appearance
My Giant CFR3 could theoretically fit a 130 rear wheel (30mm freehub), which means up to 10sp cassette. Only question is in the freehub, and if theres one that'd fit a mid 90s road bike that is for modern 2x road cranksets. It currently still has the factory 3x7 RSX groupset and 12mm inner rim diameter quick release wheels with 25mm tires. Its that rim brakes & QD wheels thats keeping me from wanting to upgrade it.
I put a dura ace 7800 groupset and c24 wheels on my first road frame. An 55cm Ambrosio solaro! I knew I was going to grow out if the frame tho, 18 years later, I'm now on a 58cm scott addict with 105 and bontrager xxx 6. Im nowhere near as fast as I used to be 😢
In have a btwin ultra 720 af (aluminium) and already made several upgrades (wheels, paint)during the last 6 years /40.000 and I am thinking of adding wheeltop wireless rim brake group set… I like to have it to show that btwin bike can be used and have a good performance…..
I disagree about once you’ve experienced disc brakes and electronic shifting you will never go back. I sold my electronic groupsets and have now got Dura Ace 9100 mechanical on my bikes and it is just as good and never goes out of tune. My disc bike rarely leaves the garage as I hate the look of it and really enjoy riding Dura Ace carbon tubular wheels. I race and train on them in dry and wet conditions and use them in the alps and find the braking superb. I find it sad that people are paying thousands for a bike now which is complicated and heavy when you can build a pro level 2019 bike up second hand for about a grand.
You mention that complete bikes are usually cheaper than the individual components - this is often not the case and it’s worth pricing up building a bike from a frameset. Especially when you look at the top spec level bikes and massive prices, if you price it up you can often buy a brand new frameset and all brand new parts at full retail price and it be a substantial amount cheaper than a complete bike, I’ve done this before and it’s been £2000 cheaper than the retail price of the bike, plus you get to choose the exact sizes and components used. Add in discounts and sale prices on the parts (or used parts) and it can way cheaper again.
Road bikes - MUST: Through axle, flat mount brake mounts, 35mm tyre clearance (road), provision for cable routing. SHOULD: threaded BB, Universal derailleur Hanger (trust me it will happen soon in road), no headset routing.
I have Triban RC500, it originally came with Sora, aluminum wheels, single piston mechanical disc brakes. I upgraded to 105 R7000, Elitewheels ENT disc, TRP Spyre dual piston brakes. More recently replaced the 105 crank set with a Magene P505 crank set with spider power meter. I think I’ve spent all together, at most, around $ 2,000.00 CAD. I purchased the bike brand new for $ 1,100.00 CAD plus taxes, 13%. If I had 10,000 pounds, which is about $ 17,000.00 CAD I would probably use it on a new bike, like a Trek Emonda SL5, or something else with a 105 Di2, which for me is enough, wouldn’t spend it on Ultegra or higher, which is nice but don’t need it.
"If the frame is compatible with the future or the likely period you will keep that bike!... 1983 Carlton Pro upgraded to Campag Racing-T 9s triple, modern finishing kit, Fulcrum CX4 wheels. Currently considering taking it out to 11s Centaur... SHould keep me going another 20 or so years. (You forgot to define "future"...) :-)
You need to know what a quality frame feels like. I recently bought a new bike (Look) and can't believe how much better it seems the frame is. The old one had carbon wheels and 105 like the new, so it has to be the frame.....If your buying discounted upgrade parts be careful of knock offs.
Actually I have a Specialized Tarmac SL6 and been thinking of changing to something which accomodate 32 and higher. My reason is because I believe that wider tyre is less prone to punctures? Am I correcT?
I'm still convinced that lots of road cyclists are riding around in shoes that keep them from being able to ride longer and faster. A pair of shoes that fit you well, even if that means spending a lot, is WAY more valuable to your performance and enjoyment than a set of wheels.
thru axles and disc brakes. good to see roadies having the same problems as mountain bikers at last. you definitely need BOOST and a new wheel size now to make everything incompatible :D
I have a question for you. I put Hunt wheels Continental Ultra 3 tyres (32mm) and TPU inner tubes on my planet x carbon bike which made it ride faster and smoother! is it worth putting TPU's in my Cad Topstone Gravel wheels / tyres ?
i have a 2022 specialized diverge e5 that i like the fit of but constantly have issues with the 8 speed gears un indexing themselves. now that group sets have dropped in price again, do you think i should put shimano GRX 11 speed on it (with hydraulic brakes). or save up for a new bike?
I purchased a Mondraker Superfoxy which was mullet setup and it was hard up hill. Changed the 650b to a 29er and new better rolling mtb tyres and now it’s great.
This is all mental!! I can build you a super bike (gravel or road) for no more than £1000 end of! What a load of bollox cycling has become! No wonder no one wants to buy a new bike now and everyone is failing so badly.
Steel bikes don't "fatigue". Source: a million race bikes from the 80's that are still on the road. Aluminium has a similar track record with bikes from the 90's still holding up. Carbon should not fatigue aswell and companies like Trek offer lifelong guarantee for the first owner, limited guarantee for second hand. At the end it all depends on how you handle the bike on and off the road.
@@klick2destruct not sure if a replacement would make me all that happy if a carbon frame or fork was to catastrophically fail at Speed. In saying that, I had a crash at like 20kmh and fully ruptured my ACL. I've come off at 45kmh around a corner, and walked away, albeit with some missing skin Carbon failing whilst on the bike just makes my skin crawl
Campy carbon wheels with campy pads and direct mount breaks perfectly no problem in following disc brake bikes in races. The fact that carbon wheels and rim brakes does not break is simply not true.
I just bought the dt swiss gr1600 with quiet hubs... shhhhh With the potential police action from China against Tawain in the near future, I say buy new now or soon Merlins has drive trains cheaper than the Canadian distributors
I've been thinking about a new carbon frameset with all the bells and whistles of the modern world, but after upgrading my bike, I've completely abandoned this idea. Currently I've got an old 2010-ish alloy Merida Race Lite 904 which I've decked out with modern 11-speed 105, nice carbon handlebars I've got as a gift from my grandpa, and a set of aliexpress-special carbon 50mm wheels, and I absolutely fell in love with that bike again. I don't care about the weight, breaking on carbon rims is good enough, bike rides really well, rear hub sounds nice, and it looks like a rocketship. I've been riding this bike for well over 10 years, and just as I thought it's time to make a change and jump over to carbon frame, I gave it another chance to shine and it was the best decision.
we don't have there kinds of problems in so-called "3rd world" countries. keeps you grounded, no excess possible, and one might be surprised to find - no excess is required at all to start with.
@1:39 is the most important part I agree, for both sides but like Im speaking for me here, and this is what I did I have and will probably forever have this beautiful old Bridgestone road bike. I frankly don't care. It got everything it deserved and brought into the modern era I found the least headache set of wheels possible to make it happen, which has DT Swiss hubs, bought thru axle wheels and converted them to QR. I can always Convert them back. That was my one Rule for the build. I was going to buy old QR hubs/wheels that couldn't be converted going forward, if I wanted to use them for something else, or, by means of saving my own life, selling the Bridgestone to pay for medical bills or something like that. That's my Baby. I will continue to upgrade her Groupset when necessary or can no longer do so because these B@stards gonna eventually move away from BSA entirely Could just, keep the cranks I guess, to a certain point however, if they did like a BSA 2.0, I'd strip my bike, send the frame to Japan and have a frame builder there adapt the new BB in for me. Cut, Weld, etc. I'd do unreasonable things for this bike
I got my Contend SL1 Disc for €1260 on bike scheme in Ireland in 2020 was gona spend 5k on new bike but I recently broke shifter and decided to upgrade bike instead…..Aliexpress 1 piece carbon handlebar, selle Italia SLR Boost saddle, elite Marvel 50 wheel set and continental GP5000’s for €1400….still decent saving left over
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
In addition to thru axles and disc brakes, I would also make sure that the frame can allow you to put at least 32c tires on it.
We need a video on how to select a good set of wheels 🔥
Great shout. I think that’s the logical next upgrade for my steel frame gravel bike but wouldn’t know where to start
I have a 2012 Litespeed C1R carbon frame with 10 speed Ultegra DI2 groupset (rim brake with QR) and I originally built it with some alloy wheels. I liked the bike so much that I bought a set of 55mm saw tooth rims for it and had them laced to a nice set of hubs. I think this upgrade was totally worth the time and expense.
Some upgrades can also be somewhat future-proof and potentially transfer to your next bike improving their value. I got pretty nice wheels for my Triban RC520 but they're now on my newer bike - I did have to get adapters to convert between QR and TA but it wasn't very hard.
I have an Argos challenge hybrid bike.
Steel frame
Weighs a ton...... 15kg
Stuck drop bars on it, Claris shifters.
Use it as my wet weather/winter bike.
700c 35mm tyres, mud guards.
Makes my top end road bike feel so much nicer when I take it out.
To be honest I love both........
I agree with Jimmy re loud free hubs, I have a set of Cadex wheels and they are fantastic, but the noise they make is so obnoxious! I generally feel so embarrassed when riding past people that I keep pedalling to spare them and me the atrocious noise.
you should be embarrassed just for riding those wheels....
Yea. People who like loud hubs have the same kind of brain as people who like motorcycles without baffles.
Loud free hubs are useful on shared paths to let people know you are coming tho..
My Giant SLR, though no CADEX, is loud. So big gear plus hand on brakes when go past pedestrians.
@@siimot I will admit I don't need a bell nowadays as the wheels do the trick.
5:18 That is so true that wheels and especially tires make a massive difference in feel, grip and velocity by using the same energy due to the rolling resistance. It is a upgrade always a worth considering especially when it comes to comfort.
As a mountainbiker the suspension is the most important choice for me and mostly a very expensive item to change if it's not correct suspension for me
I got my Contend SL1 Disc for €1260 on bike scheme Ireland, was gona spend 5k on new bike but I recently broke shifter and decided to upgrade bike instead…..Aliexpress 1 piece carbon handlebar, selle Italia SLR Boost saddle, elite Marvel 50 wheel set and continental GP5000’s for €1400….still decent saving left over
I agree with Francis on the mech hanger. Family had a Trek 1200 (alum) in the 90s and the hanger bent while shifting. Had to be sent back to Trek for repair.
I bought a new old stock bike and the hanger was bent when it arrived. Easy replacement though.
@@grahamaustin9085 Back in the day, they weren't bolt on.
I got my commuter bike sorted now looking to do this with my next bike.
I am thinking most middle tier bikes are the way to go. Ride it for a year or two while you replace some of the finishing kit and then decide if you want to upgrade or downgrade group set parts as they wear out.
As long as you don’t crash you should be good for 5 years and then decide if you just want a new frame-set at that point.
Team! Frequent viewer, infrequent commenter...Your channel is incredible. You are honest, experienced, and relatable. I love listening and appreciate all of your energy.
It was the opposite for me. Built a mountain bike for commuting with very good components and wheels but with a mediocre frame. The frame cracked last week and I will upgrade the frame and keep all the components👍🏻
Upgraded the wheels, tires, saddle and cockpit on a $2000 Scott alloy frame. It basically rides like a $5000 bike now.
it really depends on the frame ,in not in your league ,im not in any league . my to work bike is 2016 really comfy i replaced all gear set and cables. never even thought about getting a new bike (that was an option ) love it its just so comfotable
I completely understand that replaceable mech hanger is a must. My friend just drop a bike with no speed at all and hanger has bent to the point that derailleur almost went into the spokes. I was able to fix it that almost all gears works but we have to replace the hanger for new one. That was on one week old bike so it would hurt if hanger wouldn't be replaceable.
Yes. I've worked on two steel bikes with integrated hangers and I leave myself a larger adjustment margin to avoid inputting too many alignment corrections that could weaken the structure. Here, I go for sub-3 mm deviation on the horizontal and vertical axes (I usually aim for perfect vertical alignment).
I own a mid-2000s Trek Madone that is a warranty replacement for a OCLV originally purchased new in 1995. The lifetime warranty is the one of the primary reasons I hold on to it. Should it fail, I figure Trek will replace it with something comparable, but with disc brakes and thru-axles.
I find my disc S-Works slower than my rim-brake S-Works, this is fact in everyway. While disc brakes are great for downhill, when it comes to crit racing and flat terrain, I prefer rim brakes for that extra speed advantage. Every little edge matters. Plus, I’m not a fan of having to charge electronic components. Sometimes, I miss the simplicity of a fast, no-fuss setup. Carbon wheels are a must, though!
Everyone has preference
I am happy to ride caad 13 with mech 105 and disc the only thing I would love to is internal cable routing this make so much difference to bike appearance
My Giant CFR3 could theoretically fit a 130 rear wheel (30mm freehub), which means up to 10sp cassette. Only question is in the freehub, and if theres one that'd fit a mid 90s road bike that is for modern 2x road cranksets.
It currently still has the factory 3x7 RSX groupset and 12mm inner rim diameter quick release wheels with 25mm tires.
Its that rim brakes & QD wheels thats keeping me from wanting to upgrade it.
I put a dura ace 7800 groupset and c24 wheels on my first road frame. An 55cm Ambrosio solaro! I knew I was going to grow out if the frame tho, 18 years later, I'm now on a 58cm scott addict with 105 and bontrager xxx 6. Im nowhere near as fast as I used to be 😢
In have a btwin ultra 720 af (aluminium) and already made several upgrades (wheels, paint)during the last 6 years /40.000 and I am thinking of adding wheeltop wireless rim brake group set… I like to have it to show that btwin bike can be used and have a good performance…..
I disagree about once you’ve experienced disc brakes and electronic shifting you will never go back.
I sold my electronic groupsets and have now got Dura Ace 9100 mechanical on my bikes and it is just as good and never goes out of tune.
My disc bike rarely leaves the garage as I hate the look of it and really enjoy riding Dura Ace carbon tubular wheels.
I race and train on them in dry and wet conditions and use them in the alps and find the braking superb.
I find it sad that people are paying thousands for a bike now which is complicated and heavy when you can build a pro level 2019 bike up second hand for about a grand.
You mention that complete bikes are usually cheaper than the individual components - this is often not the case and it’s worth pricing up building a bike from a frameset. Especially when you look at the top spec level bikes and massive prices, if you price it up you can often buy a brand new frameset and all brand new parts at full retail price and it be a substantial amount cheaper than a complete bike, I’ve done this before and it’s been £2000 cheaper than the retail price of the bike, plus you get to choose the exact sizes and components used.
Add in discounts and sale prices on the parts (or used parts) and it can way cheaper again.
Road bikes - MUST: Through axle, flat mount brake mounts, 35mm tyre clearance (road), provision for cable routing. SHOULD: threaded BB, Universal derailleur Hanger (trust me it will happen soon in road), no headset routing.
Completely agree, I've done it for years.
Do a high end frame and use a basic drive train, 3x10 and see what happens?🤔🍻😎
I have Triban RC500, it originally came with Sora, aluminum wheels, single piston mechanical disc brakes. I upgraded to 105 R7000, Elitewheels ENT disc,
TRP Spyre dual piston brakes. More recently replaced the 105 crank set with a Magene P505 crank set with spider power meter. I think I’ve spent all together, at most, around $ 2,000.00 CAD. I purchased the bike brand new for $ 1,100.00 CAD plus taxes, 13%. If I had 10,000 pounds, which is about $ 17,000.00 CAD I would probably use it on a new bike, like a Trek Emonda SL5, or something else with a 105 Di2, which for me is enough, wouldn’t spend it on Ultegra or higher, which is nice but don’t need it.
i recently downgraded my groupset 😄
3000 dollar bike won’t give you the upgrades you desire better to buy parts and upgrade an old frame
"If the frame is compatible with the future or the likely period you will keep that bike!... 1983 Carlton Pro upgraded to Campag Racing-T 9s triple, modern finishing kit, Fulcrum CX4 wheels. Currently considering taking it out to 11s Centaur... SHould keep me going another 20 or so years. (You forgot to define "future"...) :-)
Steel and ti bikes don't need a replaceable derailleur hanger...
You need to know what a quality frame feels like. I recently bought a new bike (Look) and can't believe how much better it seems the frame is. The old one had carbon wheels and 105 like the new, so it has to be the frame.....If your buying discounted upgrade parts be careful of knock offs.
Actually I have a Specialized Tarmac SL6 and been thinking of changing to something which accomodate 32 and higher. My reason is because I believe that wider tyre is less prone to punctures? Am I correcT?
I'm still convinced that lots of road cyclists are riding around in shoes that keep them from being able to ride longer and faster. A pair of shoes that fit you well, even if that means spending a lot, is WAY more valuable to your performance and enjoyment than a set of wheels.
thru axles and disc brakes. good to see roadies having the same problems as mountain bikers at last. you definitely need BOOST and a new wheel size now to make everything incompatible :D
lol I m the guy who put a hydraulic 105 and carbon wheelset on my 2nd hand Triban RC 105, totally not worth it
Pegoretti don't have replaceable mech hangers
I have a question for you. I put Hunt wheels Continental Ultra 3 tyres (32mm) and TPU inner tubes on my planet x carbon bike which made it ride faster and smoother! is it worth putting TPU's in my Cad Topstone Gravel wheels / tyres ?
Vintage Road Bike For The Win 🤙🤙
Would you trade your Triban for a Pinarello Dogma F10 with the same build??
i have a 2022 specialized diverge e5 that i like the fit of but constantly have issues with the 8 speed gears un indexing themselves. now that group sets have dropped in price again, do you think i should put shimano GRX 11 speed on it (with hydraulic brakes). or save up for a new bike?
I purchased a Mondraker Superfoxy which was mullet setup and it was hard up hill. Changed the 650b to a 29er and new better rolling mtb tyres and now it’s great.
This is all mental!! I can build you a super bike (gravel or road) for no more than £1000 end of! What a load of bollox cycling has become! No wonder no one wants to buy a new bike now and everyone is failing so badly.
You also have to take into account the Frame "fatigue". Metal and Carbon do fatigue over time.
I won't hear it 😭😢
My Bridgestone will live forever!!!
Stupid myth
Steel bikes don't "fatigue". Source: a million race bikes from the 80's that are still on the road.
Aluminium has a similar track record with bikes from the 90's still holding up.
Carbon should not fatigue aswell and companies like Trek offer lifelong guarantee for the first owner, limited guarantee for second hand.
At the end it all depends on how you handle the bike on and off the road.
@@klick2destruct not sure if a replacement would make me all that happy if a carbon frame or fork was to catastrophically fail at Speed.
In saying that, I had a crash at like 20kmh and fully ruptured my ACL.
I've come off at 45kmh around a corner, and walked away, albeit with some missing skin
Carbon failing whilst on the bike just makes my skin crawl
@@klick2destruct aluminium DOES fatigue, fact
Enve wheels no crosswinds , really?
For me, a rides not done until my bike and shoes are cleaned up and my teeth are brushed.
Campy carbon wheels with campy pads and direct mount breaks perfectly no problem in following disc brake bikes in races. The fact that carbon wheels and rim brakes does not break is simply not true.
Tire clearance.
I just bought the dt swiss gr1600 with quiet hubs... shhhhh
With the potential police action from China against Tawain in the near future, I say buy new now or soon
Merlins has drive trains cheaper than the Canadian distributors
I mostly agree with Jimmy but I’d still upgrade a rim brake with QR with some deep dish carbon wheels and I love that thing.
I've been thinking about a new carbon frameset with all the bells and whistles of the modern world, but after upgrading my bike, I've completely abandoned this idea. Currently I've got an old 2010-ish alloy Merida Race Lite 904 which I've decked out with modern 11-speed 105, nice carbon handlebars I've got as a gift from my grandpa, and a set of aliexpress-special carbon 50mm wheels, and I absolutely fell in love with that bike again. I don't care about the weight, breaking on carbon rims is good enough, bike rides really well, rear hub sounds nice, and it looks like a rocketship. I've been riding this bike for well over 10 years, and just as I thought it's time to make a change and jump over to carbon frame, I gave it another chance to shine and it was the best decision.
i cannot believe (is it jimmy ?) is so blase about replacable dropouts. i would never consider one without it ... and im poor !
Honestly, do people really like white cycling shoes?
I am so comfortable and used to CX Ray spokes - I’ve found carbon spokes to be harsh
we don't have there kinds of problems in so-called "3rd world" countries. keeps you grounded, no excess possible, and one might be surprised to find - no excess is required at all to start with.
Worth it? NO
White cycling shoes 🤮
Sell the old bike, buy a new one. Makes more sense.
@1:39 is the most important part
I agree, for both sides but like
Im speaking for me here, and this is what I did
I have and will probably forever have this beautiful old Bridgestone road bike.
I frankly don't care. It got everything it deserved and brought into the modern era
I found the least headache set of wheels possible to make it happen, which has DT Swiss hubs, bought thru axle wheels and converted them to QR. I can always Convert them back. That was my one Rule for the build.
I was going to buy old QR hubs/wheels that couldn't be converted going forward, if I wanted to use them for something else, or, by means of saving my own life, selling the Bridgestone to pay for medical bills or something like that.
That's my Baby. I will continue to upgrade her Groupset when necessary or can no longer do so because these B@stards gonna eventually move away from BSA entirely
Could just, keep the cranks I guess, to a certain point
however, if they did like a BSA 2.0, I'd strip my bike, send the frame to Japan and have a frame builder there adapt the new BB in for me. Cut, Weld, etc.
I'd do unreasonable things for this bike
I got my Contend SL1 Disc for €1260 on bike scheme in Ireland in 2020 was gona spend 5k on new bike but I recently broke shifter and decided to upgrade bike instead…..Aliexpress 1 piece carbon handlebar, selle Italia SLR Boost saddle, elite Marvel 50 wheel set and continental GP5000’s for €1400….still decent saving left over