if you are the first man to work onit in all that time then it is a mighty fine machine looking forward to part two. Nails in the tank lol We had a video player that chocked to death on toast and jam......
Hey Bruce. I just bought a real clean 624 with a new A/M carb on it but the kid I got it from lost the major throttle link. I did buy a new link for the type of the engine that it has, and for the life of me I can't figure out how to get all the throttle and governor linkage to work correctly.
This one looks close. I just googles carb for Tecumseh 5-6 HP horizontal engine and got this ----------------Click on the long blue link usa.banggood.com/Lawnmowers-Carburetor-Carb-for-Tecumseh-5HP-6HP-H50-H60-HH60-p-922693.html?gpla=1&gmcCountry=CA¤cy=CAD&createTmp=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwncT1BRDhARIsAOQF9Lm_dsR0dYXBoeX2xhSgFqTPs35Oq-u3SPnyDR13ohEJqUuCt-6tHy8aAoohEALw_wcB&cur_warehouse=CN
MANNNNN you are lucky on those muffler bolts! I have been restoring a Tecumseh just like that one and had the muffler bolts break. So now its helicoil time. Of course the motor was under a pine tree for 15 + years which will not help at all. Nice tiller. Nice job as always Bruce.
Just got finished redoing a 1968 Mclane edger with a 2 hp Briggs. Yes it has points. Runs like a top now. I had a lot of fun with it. Going to paint it tomorrow.
I picked up an old JD front-tine tiller at a yard sale. The 5.0 hp engine has a Type W2211 sticker, but I have no other info. It looks exactly like yours but for a vertical mount air cleaner. Can you advise as to reference material? The serial no. is 29436 M
I loved your laugh when you saw the nails in the gas tank! The carb looks good for its age because the gas has been fortified with iron (the nails) lol. Looking forward to part 2. Thanks Bruce. -Kevin
Quite a coincidence that you uploaded this because just 2 days ago I acquired a complete original front tine John Deere tiller model 216 from the mid 60's. It was $40 and I'm looking forward to starting on restoring it when I get caught up. By the way, have a McCulloch MiniMac 130 on my bench...say a prayer for me. :)
Cool old Tecumseh, I always like that model of engines....You lucked out getting those muffler screws out with breaking them, but I guess it is a low hour engine. I remember that crazy carburetor adapter flange, what a pain. Too bad you went through all the trouble of pulling the carb apart, looked pretty good inside. I know, it would have been a different story had you not pulled the carb off....I have that same luck.
Jim I bought the briggs motor at a tractor show. the person I bought it from said the motor ran. I tried to get it running but had problems. I had a fairly new briggs 5 hp. so I did a crankcase cover swap between the 2 mtr's. mounted the new mtr. on the tiller with the reverse idler shaft, works great. the reversing 5 hp motor came off a Murray tiller 24" somewhere in the early to mid 1980's.
I have the same roto tiller but I believe mine only has a 4 hp Tecumseh motor. Still runs just fine although I did replace a short block because the governor went bad and the engine threw the rod out the side of the block.
JIM ECKENRODE I have the same tiller model 324 JD tecumseh motor 3.5 hp. I replaced the motor with a 5 hp briggs with a reverse shaft. picked up the tiller for 100.00 dollars. since I replaced the mtr, this tiller has all the power I need. I have clay ground, and have no problem chewing the garden for planting.
Fred, I had not seen a B&S engine with the reverse shaft, I sure wish I had because I believe the B&S engine is much better. The Techumseh engine just seems like you have to do something to it to keep running.
Bruce Pender yes they do, the only thing i had to do to the engine is clean carb, because the carb was left with gas, no corrosion, just a plugged main jet and add an air filter housing, due it being a snowblower engine. also add the custom exhaust to it.
Yep I was alive in 77 and working on those in 80 . Here is a hint put the flange on first. Then the carb on the flange. You could have took the carb off without taking the flange off.
Yes the air box/housing looked like it got in the way of some tools. Ease of access is faster. 2 bolts on the carb is way easier than taking off the phillip screws on the flange. And less gaskets like that. When the flange goes on first nothing is in the way of a hefty screwdriver. Then two nuts to tighten up after that ~!~!
that machine was took very good care of,i was 1 year old in 77,dont worry about the gas getting on your hands its just getting all the grease and grime off of your hands,is that a palstic tank or metal? and are you going to replace the metal float or just leave it if it has no hole in it? good job bruce looking foward to part 2
I always install the bolts for the muffler with some Never Seize on the ends, then I know I or the next person won't have the problem of them snapping off inside the engine.
All of my small engine equipment I like to let them set with empty fuel tanks & carbs, the available fuels of today just totally SUCK. Then when I do use them, I try to add enough trash gas to do the jobs that are preformed. I know its a pain to do it this way, but at least I know the equipment will be ready to preform when called on to do so.
I just ran my generator, drained it out and put premium fuel back in the ran it for 15 minutes again. I am nuts. It is really hard to start when it has been empty. All my other stuff is stored empty just as you say.
I Like seeing the old original ones....the carb pieces look great for being that old
Yes. Working on something that has been cared for is a treat.
if you are the first man to work onit in all that time then it is a mighty fine machine looking forward to part two. Nails in the tank lol We had a video player that chocked to death on toast and jam......
Kids !!! love them
We do❤️
Real old school stuff built to last . In great nick as well.
Yes I love these old ones. Can you believe the condition of that carb. Crazy good.
Fair play Bruce can you still get all the carb parts.
Mostly. Here is an example
www.ebay.com/itm/631021B-631021-TECUMSEH-CARB-REBUILD-KIT-/280337387587
Fair play Bruce . Good parts back up.
Hey Bruce. I just bought a real clean 624 with a new A/M carb on it but the kid I got it from lost the major throttle link. I did buy a new link for the type of the engine that it has, and for the life of me I can't figure out how to get all the throttle and governor linkage to work correctly.
The spot 10:07 may help. You can google more too
In this video is show the final linkage about 6 minute i believe. Sorry older video for me.
th-cam.com/video/i0_NwIDJMB4/w-d-xo.html
Wow that's an oldie and never been touched..
Can you believe there have been nails in the tank for 20 years!!!
Hi Bruce, That John Deere is one mighty machine. A friend on our allotment garden has one
They last if they are stored out of the weather.
I know he probably didn't know it but you don't have to remove the muffler to remove the carb
I just did as on some Tecumseh's you have to.
An oldie but a goodie Bruce, "Inspector Gadget".
Thanks Raymond
Hey what should I order if the whole carb needs replaced? It fell and cracked the carb casing.
This one looks close. I just googles
carb for Tecumseh 5-6 HP horizontal engine and got this ----------------Click on the long blue link
usa.banggood.com/Lawnmowers-Carburetor-Carb-for-Tecumseh-5HP-6HP-H50-H60-HH60-p-922693.html?gpla=1&gmcCountry=CA¤cy=CAD&createTmp=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwncT1BRDhARIsAOQF9Lm_dsR0dYXBoeX2xhSgFqTPs35Oq-u3SPnyDR13ohEJqUuCt-6tHy8aAoohEALw_wcB&cur_warehouse=CN
MANNNNN you are lucky on those muffler bolts! I have been restoring a Tecumseh just like that one and had the muffler bolts break. So now its helicoil time. Of course the motor was under a pine tree for 15 + years which will not help at all. Nice tiller. Nice job as always Bruce.
I have an 8 HP Tecumseh snowblower and the snapped off but is drilled and tapped new 5/15 into it. Same problem
Just got finished redoing a 1968 Mclane edger with a 2 hp Briggs. Yes it has points. Runs like a top now. I had a lot of fun with it. Going to paint it tomorrow.
Good for you. I Love edgers.
I picked up an old JD front-tine tiller at a yard sale. The 5.0 hp engine has a Type W2211 sticker, but I have no other info. It looks exactly like yours but for a vertical mount air cleaner. Can you advise as to reference material? The serial no. is 29436 M
Sorry I just use google a lot. I am sorry eg google Tecumseh Type W2211
@@BrucesShop I found a B & S tag, faded, and the year appears to be '85.
Thanks
That's a nice machine, the owner took really good care of it. Looking forward to part 2
Thanks a lot Alan
I loved your laugh when you saw the nails in the gas tank! The carb looks good for its age because the gas has been fortified with iron (the nails) lol. Looking forward to part 2. Thanks Bruce. -Kevin
Next week Wednessday
Quite a coincidence that you uploaded this because just 2 days ago I acquired a complete original front tine John Deere tiller model 216 from the mid 60's. It was $40 and I'm looking forward to starting on restoring it when I get caught up. By the way, have a McCulloch MiniMac 130 on my bench...say a prayer for me. :)
I will. I have been fixing small engine for a few more years and maybe I would tackle a Mini Mac again. Good luck on your yellow and green tiller.
Cool old Tecumseh, I always like that model of engines....You lucked out getting those muffler screws out with breaking them, but I guess it is a low hour engine. I remember that crazy carburetor adapter flange, what a pain. Too bad you went through all the trouble of pulling the carb apart, looked pretty good inside. I know, it would have been a different story had you not pulled the carb off....I have that same luck.
He was running it on 1/2 choke so I new something was blocked.
They certainly don't make them like they used to. I bought a new tiller in '74 and it has never given me a lick of trouble.
These are really cool old machines. My family couldn't afford them back then. I think that is why I like them so much.
Jim I bought the briggs motor at a tractor show. the person I bought it from said the motor ran. I tried to get it running but had problems. I had a fairly new briggs 5 hp. so I did a crankcase cover swap between the 2 mtr's. mounted the new mtr. on the tiller with the reverse idler shaft, works great.
the reversing 5 hp motor came off a Murray tiller 24" somewhere in the early to mid 1980's.
I have the same roto tiller but I believe mine only has a 4 hp Tecumseh motor. Still runs just fine although I did replace a short block because the governor went bad and the engine threw the rod out the side of the block.
That is a major repair. Good for you.
JIM ECKENRODE
I have the same tiller model 324
JD tecumseh motor 3.5 hp. I replaced the motor with a 5 hp briggs with a reverse shaft. picked up the tiller for 100.00 dollars.
since I replaced the mtr, this tiller has all the power I need. I have clay ground, and have no problem chewing the garden for planting.
Fred, I had not seen a B&S engine with the reverse shaft, I sure wish I had because I believe the B&S engine is much better. The Techumseh engine just seems like you have to do something to it to keep running.
I have had luck with both. Tecumseh's have more interchangeable parts and the Briggs are a bit tougher motor.
I have this exact model thanks for the video unfortunately my motor threw a rod back in the 80s going to put a new used motor on next spring.
That is common if they get a bit low on oil
nice tiller looks like the same engine on my waterpump rig, mine is a 1975 H50 5hp with 30lbs of compression left
They do last a long time
Bruce Pender
yes they do, the only thing i had to do to the engine is clean carb, because the carb was left with gas, no corrosion, just a plugged main jet and add an air filter housing, due it being a snowblower engine. also add the custom exhaust to it.
that's a cool tiller!
It is Jason
Yep I was alive in 77 and working on those in 80 .
Here is a hint put the flange on first. Then the carb on the flange. You could have took the carb off without taking the flange off.
next time I would also take the air filter housing off right away.
Yes the air box/housing looked like it got in the way of some tools. Ease of access is faster. 2 bolts on the carb is way easier than taking off the phillip screws on the flange. And less gaskets like that. When the flange goes on first nothing is in the way of a hefty screwdriver. Then two nuts to tighten up after that ~!~!
that machine was took very good care of,i was 1 year old in 77,dont worry about the gas getting on your hands its just getting all the grease and grime off of your hands,is that a palstic tank or metal? and are you going to replace the metal float or just leave it if it has no hole in it? good job bruce looking foward to part 2
Thanks Clinton. My daughter was born in 1979
Do you have any parts for this model tiller? I need the part that the drag bar is connected to.
Gosh carol they are so old I don't think I can help you. I will keep it mind. Really I will.
nice
Well that machine has the correct fuel tank for your John Deere (Ariens) blower with the Tecumseh, if not, very close.
I have has comments on that before.. Thanks though
I always install the bolts for the muffler with some Never Seize on the ends, then I know I or the next person won't have the problem of them snapping off inside the engine.
Right. This video is a few years old and I am using anti seize more and more.
thanks again Bruce ...
All of my small engine equipment I like to let them set with empty fuel tanks & carbs, the available fuels of today just totally SUCK. Then when I do use them, I try to add enough trash gas to do the jobs that are preformed.
I know its a pain to do it this way, but at least I know the equipment will be ready to preform when called on to do so.
I just ran my generator, drained it out and put premium fuel back in the ran it for 15 minutes again. I am nuts. It is really hard to start when it has been empty. All my other stuff is stored empty just as you say.
Nails. That's a first.
For me too. Those kids have kids now!!!